I really appreciate you taking the time out of your day to make this, for people new to this art it’s very hard to find a good starters guide. Your the best man!
Bro I searched wide and far looking for a vid like this and yours is BY FAR the best and most detailed so thank you for posting this!! Long story short, I printed my 1st benchy with your settings and needless to say Mortal Kombat "FLAWLESS VICTORY"... THANKS AGAIN and keep em coming NOOBS like me GREATLY APPRECIATE THE HELP and GUIDANCE!!!
QUICK QUESTION, so you said down below you dont do any finish work on your benchies. So im assuming all the parts function fine with the rough top side after removing supps? Mine doesnt look too bad but I was just wondering if the horizontal lines would interfere with some of the sliding parts, if that makes sense? What are thoughts on printing R's up for cleaner top side? Im trying that now!
Thank you so much i was so frustrated with my prints. This settings are pretty much perfect! Supports break off so easy too. Only thing with the fuzzy skin finish it was hard to stick and pull magazines in and out but just a little work with a file and they are smooth now. Also printed rails down with zero top layers lol so i have to do it again ,still works but i’m OCD and want a nice finish. I was using PSR settings and this works much much better on my aquila s2 with cura 4.13.1 HUGE THANKS MANY FREE INTERNETS FOR YOU BLESS YOU
This is great! Hopefully my 2A benchies will start looking like more than the rough dimpled blobs they are. Any chance you could do a video on how you finish them? I.e. sanding, acetone bath, anything like that?
Can you do a vid using creality slicer for a hand held, I'm using a ender 3 neo, cura and credulity slicer are similar but settings aren't the same, would be appreciated, yes I did subscribe. And hit a thumbs up
I'm running Cura 5.3. The "wall thickness" setting is grayed out because it is overwritten by other settings. However, I can't figure which one that would be. There is a "wall line width" setting under Quality, but it is set to 0.4mm. I can't figure out how to replicate the 0.8mm setting you have shown at time 2:51. And thanks for the great starting point!
@@smokieshootshoot yea I have a ender 3 pro boden setup and had alittle issues but I got one frame that I think is pretty solid just getting parts in nyc is the harder part lol
Was just digging for a good straight to the point video on this,thank you so much,I have a ender 3,and I use cura,I've had issues on resume print,when I resume print where it stopped it left a hard bubble that couldn't be removed and then it starting resume printing outside of the print ultimately destroying the whole print,any tips?
I find that if I have to pause a print I can only really pause it for about 1 min tops befor I end up with any off filament issues. But it’s hit and miss tbh
I've been having problems trying to print one I've tried different things you're the first person to put up settings like this hope your settings are on the up and up and legit that they will work for me cuz I'm using an Ender 3 Pro it's a pain in the ass to level out I've been trying to find mesh bed leveling if somebody had the G cold program or a CR touch money's tight too many bills would love to buy a new printer like the new Ender 5 with the self leveling and filament sensor Christmas is coming maybe you can buy me one and send it to me I would appreciate that
ive used your settings for 3 one handed benchys and theyve turned out great, i had to tweek a few of your settings but not much. the prints go faster than PSRsby like 20-40 me ns. i had to skip fuzzy slin because some prints will vibrate too much with the thin support's and if you print rails down dont do zero top layers
Do you usually select "Everywhere" or "Touching Buildplate only"? I have something on the printer rails down now using "Everywhere" but I'm afraid the supports are going to be stuck to the piece.
So as far as speed goes and layer adhesion, if you had a fast printer, like my Anycubic Kobra 2, what settings would you run or still stick with 50 for 2A benches?
Any tips for leveling ender 3 v2? Got a glass bed and have a feeler gauge but very inexperienced any help appreciated and thanks for making the content
To be honest, I don’t really watch pie print for the first lines around and adjust while it’s moving. Once you’re set you shouldn’t need to touch it for a minute though, but I use my eyeballs.
Thanks for sharing! My Diamondback nozzle has been outstanding for CF on my Ender 3. I tried doing a 15 degree angle but getting CF out of the interior of the frame is nearly impossible. Do you do rails up?
I go both ways, lol it all depends on how well the printer is calibrated when I first started it was always rails up now that I halfway know what I’m doing it’s rails down
@@smokieshootshoot that’s likely my issue. My prints are super clean on the outside but I think I need work on the supports. The locking block and trigger housing region in particular are a nightmare. Could I get them cleaned out and useable, yes. But, in the end it would be subpar. Back to Cura I go!
My friend printed dd19.2 on ender 3 pro using Cura and the exact settings in this video and the handle is so flimsy and thin that it would crush in your hand if you squeezed.
This video helped me so much 😭 I messed up to frames wasted so much of my time I’m so glad I found this video definitely subscribed keep up the videos 💯🖤
Sorry about that I had a G17 file that was a little bit to short and I got rid of that file.But I'm still having problems with my supports I'm rocking a FLSun Super racer any hints would be appreciated.
Im having a huge issue with my FMDA DEFCAD files for the DD17.2's. All my Armalite stuff, "being non-specific", is perfect. My PY2A, 17 Gen 3 was a miracle by accident, but all my other Austrian lowers grips keep cracking? Is this a layer height or walls issue? i was running a .3mm layer height with a 8 line wall count, is that too much or what? If there is a contact method for you that would be amazing!
These print settings are only as good as the parts and setup. Off brand nozzles will cause issues. Spend the extra for a better nozzle. Use the skirt to get a good squeeze on the first layer without oozing and making trenched lines. The entire print counts on a good first layer. If it messes up stop and restart. You can't save a bad first layer for a strength critical part without having a sloppy look.
This would be great!!! Bc can’t see the rest of the settings in the other setting pages that you don’t have enabled to see in the editor or are all the other one you can’t see default still. Are these one you are showing the only ones you showed? But to be able to just import this profile would be huge if you can
@@smokieshootshoot i was trying to get some files last night but the site was down they are basically focused on destroying the 2nd amendment knowing that this will cause a civil war and mass destruction to our society.😔
I'm not sure why the hell would you do no top layers? It makes the print incomplete and missing the entire top layer(almost). Sucks I trusted this and didn't look hard at the preview. My whole trigger area is missing the whole top layer. Wtf.
why does eveyone say their support settings are good? I've tried like 5 different settings, wasted at least two days of printing - and guess what? All my parts are dog shit quality because of poor support removal. Its equally hilarious that every single part's suggested orientation - is the worst imaginaible orintation for support removal. Seriously go look at the mac n cheese v2. Every single part i've printed is ruined by support placement/orientation. Guess my machine is dogshit, or im equally bad. Theres no way half a dozen people are full of shit right?
Unfortunately I don’t think there’s any perfect setting for any specific machine I’ve had a couple of people ask on my settings as I tend to have a pretty solid print quality and support removal on my prints. Although moving over to the bamboo slicer I’ve learned that somethings don’t translate very well so I’m relearning again. On my ender three V2 a lot of it was my machine and it being properly calibrated. Sorry your struggle seems to be very real but don’t get too down on yourself and do a couple of benches before you jump into a longer print you may even want to try doing if you torture test prints to look at overhang and supports
@@smokieshootshoot have this ender v3 se for 6 days. On my third spool, God knows how many setting variations, test prints, 2a prints, doesn’t seem to matter. Anything needing a support over anything that isn’t a solid flat surface is essentially ruined by me having to chisel away supports afterwards. This machine is dog shit. That’s all there is to it
I really appreciate you taking the time out of your day to make this, for people new to this art it’s very hard to find a good starters guide. Your the best man!
Happy to help when I can! I hope this does help
Bro I searched wide and far looking for a vid like this and yours is BY FAR the best and most detailed so thank you for posting this!! Long story short, I printed my 1st benchy with your settings and needless to say Mortal Kombat "FLAWLESS VICTORY"... THANKS AGAIN and keep em coming NOOBS like me GREATLY APPRECIATE THE HELP and GUIDANCE!!!
Brilliant ! We appreciate your dedication to the craft and sharing.
Thanks you for the insight, I really liked the way you explained it hopefully you’ll make more.
Awesome video man very much appreciated... My Benchy is looking great now.
I am happy to help!
Do you use a printer tent when printing with cf nylon?
super helpful thank you sir and happy printing!
Thank you!
QUICK QUESTION, so you said down below you dont do any finish work on your benchies. So im assuming all the parts function fine with the rough top side after removing supps? Mine doesnt look too bad but I was just wondering if the horizontal lines would interfere with some of the sliding parts, if that makes sense? What are thoughts on printing R's up for cleaner top side? Im trying that now!
Wonder how these settings would fair using Prusaslicer
I’d be curious as well.
smokie do you know how to fix where my mag wont go in?
Thank you so much i was so frustrated with my prints. This settings are pretty much perfect! Supports break off so easy too. Only thing with the fuzzy skin finish it was hard to stick and pull magazines in and out but just a little work with a file and they are smooth now. Also printed rails down with zero top layers lol so i have to do it again ,still works but i’m OCD and want a nice finish. I was using PSR settings and this works much much better on my aquila s2 with cura 4.13.1
HUGE THANKS MANY FREE INTERNETS FOR YOU BLESS YOU
I’m happy this was able to help fuzzy skins in acquired taste lol
@@smokieshootshootyes fuzzy skin i like it and sometimes don’t like it 😂 just have to get used to it i guess
This is great! Hopefully my 2A benchies will start looking like more than the rough dimpled blobs they are. Any chance you could do a video on how you finish them? I.e. sanding, acetone bath, anything like that?
I actually don’t do any type of finish on mine. If done correctly none should be needed
Can you do a vid using creality slicer for a hand held, I'm using a ender 3 neo, cura and credulity slicer are similar but settings aren't the same, would be appreciated, yes I did subscribe. And hit a thumbs up
Unfortunately that’s how I lost my last channel
Saved to my 3D Printing playlist to refer back to. Hopefully my "benchies" will turn out great.
Let me know how it turns out
Can these exact settings be used with a bambu p1p?
Does the ender 3 max neo have a all metal hot end ?
This I do not know. Sorry pham
@@smokieshootshoot you good thank you 💯💪🏾
Any way you could upload the Cura profile just to make sure everything is the same?
I didn’t know that’s a thing…
I'm running Cura 5.3. The "wall thickness" setting is grayed out because it is overwritten by other settings. However, I can't figure which one that would be. There is a "wall line width" setting under Quality, but it is set to 0.4mm. I can't figure out how to replicate the 0.8mm setting you have shown at time 2:51. And thanks for the great starting point!
Unfortunately I don’t know how to get around this you may want to try and reach out to 3-D print general as he’s a bit better at this than I am
You got the fax button next to it to reset then change the value.
Mannn you have made my life wayyyyy easier for sure !! I have been looking for this since I started printing (benchy) hahaha love it thank you again
Happy to help my friend
@@smokieshootshoot yea I have a ender 3 pro boden setup and had alittle issues but I got one frame that I think is pretty solid just getting parts in nyc is the harder part lol
Yes i need learn thank you
are these the same setting you used for cf nylon
Yes on this machine. I have new settings on the Bambu I’ll share this week
Was just digging for a good straight to the point video on this,thank you so much,I have a ender 3,and I use cura,I've had issues on resume print,when I resume print where it stopped it left a hard bubble that couldn't be removed and then it starting resume printing outside of the print ultimately destroying the whole print,any tips?
i wouldnt use resume print on anything like this. i dont find it reliable at all
I find that if I have to pause a print I can only really pause it for about 1 min tops befor I end up with any off filament issues. But it’s hit and miss tbh
What Carbon Fiber Nylon filament are you using? I can’t seem to find in PA-12…
Polymaker
thanks for the Tips smokie
Happy to help where I can!
I've been having problems trying to print one I've tried different things you're the first person to put up settings like this hope your settings are on the up and up and legit that they will work for me cuz I'm using an Ender 3 Pro it's a pain in the ass to level out I've been trying to find mesh bed leveling if somebody had the G cold program or a CR touch money's tight too many bills would love to buy a new printer like the new Ender 5 with the self leveling and filament sensor Christmas is coming maybe you can buy me one and send it to me I would appreciate that
I’d love one of those myself good luck and let me know how the settings work out for you
ill try out your settings and compare it to PSRs which im using now with good results.
Let me know how I compare!
I’m also using PSRs on a voxelab aquila will report after i try this
ive used your settings for 3 one handed benchys and theyve turned out great, i had to tweek a few of your settings but not much. the prints go faster than PSRsby like 20-40 me ns. i had to skip fuzzy slin because some prints will vibrate too much with the thin support's and if you print rails down dont do zero top layers
With CF-PA try 35c for bed temp, it seems to work better for me. And even with Klipper on Ender 3v2 I still keep speeds under 40mms
Do u think this would work on a bambu labs p1p printer with orca slicer?
yes
Great video man
Thank you!
When you print rails up do you leave it level at 90 degrees or do you angle it up or down?
Na I put magwell flush to the bed
I followed this but my print has missing areas that I can’t figure out mainly from where the tree supports were please help
??
Do you usually select "Everywhere" or "Touching Buildplate only"? I have something on the printer rails down now using "Everywhere" but I'm afraid the supports are going to be stuck to the piece.
Everywhere
So as far as speed goes and layer adhesion, if you had a fast printer, like my Anycubic Kobra 2, what settings would you run or still stick with 50 for 2A benches?
TBH i couldnt tell you... Sorry
Any tips for leveling ender 3 v2? Got a glass bed and have a feeler gauge but very inexperienced any help appreciated and thanks for making the content
To be honest, I don’t really watch pie print for the first lines around and adjust while it’s moving. Once you’re set you shouldn’t need to touch it for a minute though, but I use my eyeballs.
Do anneal your PA-12 after the print?
I did not.
Is it a good idea to use 40 uppers on 3d printed glocks?
I do it. I’ll make a video for it
Any good settings or anything for the ender 3 v3 se
Why not these settings? I'm trying the v3 se right now on a handheld benchy!!
@@gameaddict6969 what do you guys use for support chunk line count
What slicer are you using?
Cura
@@smokieshootshoot version?
Just got ended 3 v2 and can’t want to start printing I been watching for a long time you are the reason I got in to this hate to new yt rules though
Happy printing my friend! Let me know how your first build goes! Welcome to the community
Thanks for sharing! My Diamondback nozzle has been outstanding for CF on my Ender 3. I tried doing a 15 degree angle but getting CF out of the interior of the frame is nearly impossible. Do you do rails up?
I go both ways, lol it all depends on how well the printer is calibrated when I first started it was always rails up now that I halfway know what I’m doing it’s rails down
@@smokieshootshoot that’s likely my issue. My prints are super clean on the outside but I think I need work on the supports. The locking block and trigger housing region in particular are a nightmare. Could I get them cleaned out and useable, yes. But, in the end it would be subpar. Back to Cura I go!
How do you change the wall thickness
My friend printed dd19.2 on ender 3 pro using Cura and the exact settings in this video and the handle is so flimsy and thin that it would crush in your hand if you squeezed.
Thank you!
Happy to help
Do these settings work on any printer? And what printer do you use?
these will work with most. I use the Ender 3v2 and the CR10 v3
Are these settings good for ender 3 pro?
Yes
This video helped me so much 😭 I messed up to frames wasted so much of my time I’m so glad I found this video definitely subscribed keep up the videos 💯🖤
Thank you!
Does anybody know what to scale for a hand held on the X Y Z
Good question
Sorry about that I had a G17 file that was a little bit to short and I got rid of that file.But I'm still having problems with my supports I'm rocking a FLSun Super racer any hints would be appreciated.
Can you export this profile? Much easier to get these settings and try it......
I tbh don’t know how to do that.
What would I do for an ender 3 V2 neo?
Bump up your speed? That one’s a solid bit better. I would check out the print general
are these print settings wise for cosplay printings? I'm currently using pla+
Yes 🙌
Do you dry your carbon fiber nylon
Yes! Always
Im having a huge issue with my FMDA DEFCAD files for the DD17.2's. All my Armalite stuff, "being non-specific", is perfect. My PY2A, 17 Gen 3 was a miracle by accident, but all my other Austrian lowers grips keep cracking? Is this a layer height or walls issue? i was running a .3mm layer height with a 8 line wall count, is that too much or what? If there is a contact method for you that would be amazing!
Thank you so much for the help!!!!!!!
Your very welcome!
Awesome video love ur videos man 👍👍
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video
Thanks brotato
Lol happy to help!
Gonna print my first frame soon, and was wondering which filament to use. Im gonna go with Polymaker, but my dilemma is which one. Any suggestions?
The Pla pro is my number 1 go to
@@smokieshootshoot gratitude bro. Keep em coming 👍🏾.
@@ceewoundedknee757 happy to help!
i like .06 nozzles the speed is insane for good quality
I never thought to go bigger….
Are these settings for most "benchys" ??
Yes!
the fuzzy texture feels like steel wool why did you do this to me
Bwahahaha 😂
Great content, much more enjoyable then some. Smashing that sub button now!
I appreciate this a lot
Are these settings for carbon fiber nylon filament?
These work for CF nylon with the exception for the temp.
The website Says expired
These print settings are only as good as the parts and setup.
Off brand nozzles will cause issues. Spend the extra for a better nozzle.
Use the skirt to get a good squeeze on the first layer without oozing and making trenched lines. The entire print counts on a good first layer. If it messes up stop and restart. You can't save a bad first layer for a strength critical part without having a sloppy look.
Can you start dropping links to your oddesey videos under your RUclips vids
Ya I could do that. I just don’t post to oddesey much
Can you share the profile?
Tbh I don’t know how to do that…
Under profiles you can " export" where you can also duplicate it. Easy to do.
This would be great!!! Bc can’t see the rest of the settings in the other setting pages that you don’t have enabled to see in the editor or are all the other one you can’t see default still. Are these one you are showing the only ones you showed? But to be able to just import this profile would be huge if you can
What happened to the website ???
That is a great question I didn’t realize it was down
@@smokieshootshoot i was trying to get some files last night but the site was down they are basically focused on destroying the 2nd amendment knowing that this will cause a civil war and mass destruction to our society.😔
what website are you talking about lol
A website that served our 2dn amendment 🫡
based
I'm not sure why the hell would you do no top layers? It makes the print incomplete and missing the entire top layer(almost). Sucks I trusted this and didn't look hard at the preview. My whole trigger area is missing the whole top layer. Wtf.
Nevermind figured it out
Are you 1776 supply co?
Nope. But they are friends of mine.
@@smokieshootshoot do you know if they ship the sd card for 3d printer to California?
@@Jacob-xl7zl I don’t believe so. But I could be wrong
why does eveyone say their support settings are good?
I've tried like 5 different settings, wasted at least two days of printing - and guess what? All my parts are dog shit quality because of poor support removal. Its equally hilarious that every single part's suggested orientation - is the worst imaginaible orintation for support removal.
Seriously go look at the mac n cheese v2. Every single part i've printed is ruined by support placement/orientation.
Guess my machine is dogshit, or im equally bad. Theres no way half a dozen people are full of shit right?
Unfortunately I don’t think there’s any perfect setting for any specific machine I’ve had a couple of people ask on my settings as I tend to have a pretty solid print quality and support removal on my prints. Although moving over to the bamboo slicer I’ve learned that somethings don’t translate very well so I’m relearning again. On my ender three V2 a lot of it was my machine and it being properly calibrated. Sorry your struggle seems to be very real but don’t get too down on yourself and do a couple of benches before you jump into a longer print you may even want to try doing if you torture test prints to look at overhang and supports
@@smokieshootshoot have this ender v3 se for 6 days. On my third spool, God knows how many setting variations, test prints, 2a prints, doesn’t seem to matter.
Anything needing a support over anything that isn’t a solid flat surface is essentially ruined by me having to chisel away supports afterwards.
This machine is dog shit. That’s all there is to it
@@smokieshootshoot appreciate the response. I’m just big mad and your settings were the last I tried
In no world do you need to be printing with 8 walls and 100% infill. Good god man! This is terrible advice
lol 😂 ya I may go overboard with walls. I’m down to 6.
Great conversation, Im a 🪑 👨 1 fan as well 😉