Thank you. I apologize, my Italian is not that great, however, according to Google Translate, here was your comment: “Nice video. I follow you from Italy. do you have cocoa coffee plants? Does papaya stand up to you? Why does papaya degrees die?” Thank you. My Italian is not great. I do not have any coffee or cacao trees. My Hawaiian Solo, Sunrise and Mexican papaya trees have withstood temperature down to -3 degrees Celsius with minor damage. The Mexican variety papaya is the cold tolerant of all. Google Translate: “Grazie. Il mio italiano non è eccezionale. Non ho alberi di caffè o cacao. I miei alberi di papaya Hawaiian Solo, Sunrise e messicana hanno resistito a temperature fino a -3 gradi Celsius con lievi danni. La varietà messicana papaya è la più tollerante al freddo.”
@@TropicalCentralValley perché io vivo le sud italia...a fatto 0gradi 1giorno di notte la papaya a avuto un danno enorme lo dovuto tagliare,....varietà farmosa......grazie per la risposta 😊
Google Translate: “Because I live in southern Italy. It did 0 degrees 1 day at night the papaya had a huge cut it. Formosa variety. Thanks for the reply” Cold stress on papaya trees are noticeable. Although I do not have a Formosa papaya, my 4 year old Hawaiian Solo papaya does get severely knocked down by the cold, but it always has bounced back as the weather warms up. Google Translate: “Lo stress da freddo sugli alberi di papaia è evidente. Anche se non ho una papaya Formosa, la mia papaya hawaiana Solo di 4 anni viene gravemente abbattuta dal freddo, ma è sempre rimbalzata quando il tempo si scalda.”
You are giving me hope that I might get fruit from one. I am in Melbourne. In a spot between our two bays, so frosts are limited (although this winter was one of our worst, and the mangos etc made it through. ) I have a spot where I put more frost sensitive plants, like our Davidson plum, gets morning to lunch sun, then shaded. That would be enough sun? I find Melbourne afternoon sun to be brutal on most sub tropical and tropical plants.
That’s awesome. Starfruits are surprisingly quite frost hardy. All of mine have been able to handle -3°C for multiple mornings with minimal damage, once established.
@@TropicalCentralValley -3 is the absolute min we get here. Most of our frost nights are only -1 and then only a single night in a row. I think I have a good microclimate for it
Starfruit are one of the under utilized tropical fruit we can grow here in the San Joaquin valley. My summer crop is sweet, though my winter crop is a bit bland due to the lack of winter heat.
Thank you. Unfortunately, I do not play table tennis, though, if I do, I would imagine the fruits from the starfruit trees would help to maximize my gains.
Fantastic micro climate there. Very Impressed with your papayas. I got so much rain and wind most of my papayas trees fell over or suffering root rot only my biggest Mexican type will survive all my Formosa types are probably not going to make it
Thank you. Fortunately, papayas do propagate quite easily from seed. The two Mexican papaya trees have since fallen unexpectedly. I made a video covering them today (1/30/2022).
When stressed, including when just planted in the ground, yes. It’s also not surprising that the tree may shed all of its leaves. However, all of mine has always managed to bounced back without issues. What soil amendments did you used when putting it in the ground?
@@TropicalCentralValley mines just had its leaves folded inwards has dropped its leaves it’s in a well draining area it’s in clay I have previously amended the area with compost and peat moss (+-2 inches) and has 3 inch layer of mulch
Going forward, I would NOT recommend the incorporation of compost into your soil amendments, and instead, as a top dressing. It sounds like your starfruit tree is having a tough time acclimate. It may not be a bad idea to provide it with some afternoon shade.
@@TropicalCentralValley i wrote it wrong I meant I put around 2 inches of compost and peat moss as top dressing just got a shade cloth I will also try lowering the ph with some sulfur thank you for the advice :)
Thanks for the clarification. It sounds like the tree was planted straight into the ground without any amendments. If so, the tree may take several years to acclimate, if at all. It’s always a good practice to use 1/3 sand, 1/3 peat moss and 1/3 native dirt when putting tropical fruit trees in the ground. This amendment helps the tree to acclimate and therefore, survive and hopefully thrive.
Hello! It is so nice to see someone from the central valley growing tropicals. I'd love to ask you what cultivars grow best for you in ground and produce the most starfruit for you. I am building a plant list for a community food forest that is being planted in south west Fresno. I am also curious about your best cultivars for growing Jackfruit, Papaya, Banana, and pomelo in Fresno climate.
For starfruits, definitely the Kari variety. Jackfruits are a bit frost sensitive. Although they’re technically USDA Zone 9b and may grow in our climate, they don’t do well. Even for a matured tree, they would prefer some winter protection. That said, I would recommend propagating store bought fresh jackfruits from seed as they germinate very easily. They also bear fruit quite early as well, generally within 3 years if grown from seed. Papayas, I have not had any issues with the Mexican, Sunrise and Hawaiian Solo varieties. I suspect you’ll find success with other varieties as well. The same goes for banana. My Nam Wah, Ice Cream, Goldfinger, Double Mahoi and a few other varieties performed quite well, though their leaves will look sad during the winter. Specific to citrus, such as pomelo, you’re not going to have any issues. My pomelo of unknown variety is doing awesome.
@@TropicalCentralValley Thank you so much for the information! This is very helpful. Would you ever consider doing a small tour for one or two people? (masked of course, and possibly after this covid wave) We would love the opportunity to ask you more questions so we can build the best possible community food forest for Fresno residents.
Public group tours are actually something I’ve been considering. In previous years, I have had numerous local subscribers stopped by. The best time would be around the July-August months when the vast majority of fruits are ripening. I’m available on Instagram at TropicalCentralValley. Please feel free to send me a message there.
Are you near San Francisco? Im in Melbourne Australia - same latitude as SF So trees i asked about previous are Starfruit - Cool - I have a seedling kary and Kembangan grafted in same hole 9ft tall on protected East wall - both had small flowering early summer but next flowering will be in early autumn - I cant get fruit set - do you have any tricks? Ive tried extra K and Bat Guano P but mainly employ slow release like Osmocote and Seaweed fertilisers. - cheers
I’m about 370 kilometers south of San Francisco. Looking at Melbourne’s comparative USDA Zone, you guys are in zone 10b, which is generally frost free. Specific to your question, if the tree is fruiting, eliminate the nitrogen and increase your PK. I generally use an organic PK 10-10 for my flowering/fruiting trees.
@@TropicalCentralValley ha yes can be frost free - we don't have zones as such - im more warm temperate but our Winters can lag into mid/ late spring - the indigenous called it Sprinter lol sometimes 4 seasons in one day - well thats Melbourne for you
Great video! I’ve got 5-6 starfruit seedlings growing at the moment started back in June of 2021. The seedlings are around a foot tall and have not been protected in full sun and they’ve endured their first frost in Fremont, CA at 31 degrees in late December. Do you know how long they take to fruit from seed? Also just a random observation, my mamey Sapote seedling started in July has been absolutely spectacular in this winter and is actually pushing out growth in the winter in a 1 gallon pot. It has been outside everyday except for the one day it went down to 31, and it has been handling around 35-40 degrees on a nearly nightly basis for around 2-3 weeks.
When grown from seed, typically 4-8 years. Seedling tropicals, particularly starfruits will fair much better than grafted varieties during the winter. My starfruit that was grown from seed never took a hit during the many winters and remained fully foliaged.
The always informative videos my friend📹 . Hoping my 10ft tall grafted Kary starfruit will finally fruit. Not sure what the issue is. My small 4ft tall grafted fwang tung flowered 1st yr I received it.
Thank you. Your Kari may fruit this year. If under stress, I found the starfruit trees can take a year or two to “recover”, and during that time, they seem to concentrate on their foliage and root growth. I suspect it’s just a matter of time before yours will set fruits.
my star fruit tree fell over during a windy night in January, now the leaves are growing but the top of the main branch is dried with no leaves like its dead. What do you recommend that I do?
Hey really appreciate the videos just a random question How did you amend your backyard soil so that you can properly plant tropical. I’m having trouble because I have heavy clay soil
Sheet mulching will be your best and fastest option. Get a bunch of cardboards (Costco gives them away for free), cover your entire yard with the cardboards then apply about a foot of wood chip. Generously water it. The mulch will suffocate any weed and as the mulch breaks down, will transfer your clay soil into nutrient rich soil suitable for trees and more importantly, your soil organisms.
How much sun does your smaller carambola between your house and neighbours get at the front? I have a shady area between my house and neighbours (myabe 1-2 hrs sun a day) and wanting to use that space. Wondering if you would recommend carambola or any other tropical fruit tree Thx
I suspect a starfruit tree or perhaps, the sapote family of fruit trees may do okay with the minimal amount of light in that particular section of your yard.
In a container, and heavily sheltered, yes. The thing with growing a purple mangosteen is the insane climate tolerance of the tree. Too cold or too hot and it’ll die. Too little humidity and it’ll die. There’s online forums that talk of folks in Hawaii having difficulties growing them there. I should mention though, my three mangosteen seedlings are doing awesome.
@@TropicalCentralValley I have a chance to buy a 15g tree. It’s in a greenhouse. I’m worried that once I take it. It’ll die outside a greenhouse. What if I put it in a microclimate. Think it’ll live? Why can’t I put it in the ground?
If planting in the ground, even in the USDA Zone 10 that you’re likely in, the tree itself, even for a matured one, may suffer from cold stress when the temperature drops below 45°. I suspect you’ll want to construct a semi-permanent greenhouse for it, to ensure it’s climate is correct. Lastly, the tree itself may take 10-20 years before setting fruit. That being said though, it’s be awesome to grow one in California. I personally think it’s worth a shot if given the chance.
Bel video..ti seguo dal italia....piante cacao caffe ne hai?..la papaya resiste da te? Perché la papaya 0gradi muore??
Thank you. I apologize, my Italian is not that great, however, according to Google Translate, here was your comment:
“Nice video. I follow you from Italy. do you have cocoa coffee plants? Does papaya stand up to you? Why does papaya degrees die?”
Thank you. My Italian is not great. I do not have any coffee or cacao trees.
My Hawaiian Solo, Sunrise and Mexican papaya trees have withstood temperature down to -3 degrees Celsius with minor damage.
The Mexican variety papaya is the cold tolerant of all.
Google Translate:
“Grazie. Il mio italiano non è eccezionale. Non ho alberi di caffè o cacao.
I miei alberi di papaya Hawaiian Solo, Sunrise e messicana hanno resistito a temperature fino a -3 gradi Celsius con lievi danni.
La varietà messicana papaya è la più tollerante al freddo.”
@@TropicalCentralValley perché io vivo le sud italia...a fatto 0gradi 1giorno di notte la papaya a avuto un danno enorme lo dovuto tagliare,....varietà farmosa......grazie per la risposta 😊
Google Translate: “Because I live in southern Italy. It did 0 degrees 1 day at night the papaya had a huge cut it. Formosa variety. Thanks for the reply”
Cold stress on papaya trees are noticeable. Although I do not have a Formosa papaya, my 4 year old Hawaiian Solo papaya does get severely knocked down by the cold, but it always has bounced back as the weather warms up.
Google Translate: “Lo stress da freddo sugli alberi di papaia è evidente. Anche se non ho una papaya Formosa, la mia papaya hawaiana Solo di 4 anni viene gravemente abbattuta dal freddo, ma è sempre rimbalzata quando il tempo si scalda.”
You are giving me hope that I might get fruit from one. I am in Melbourne. In a spot between our two bays, so frosts are limited (although this winter was one of our worst, and the mangos etc made it through. )
I have a spot where I put more frost sensitive plants, like our Davidson plum, gets morning to lunch sun, then shaded. That would be enough sun? I find Melbourne afternoon sun to be brutal on most sub tropical and tropical plants.
That’s awesome. Starfruits are surprisingly quite frost hardy. All of mine have been able to handle -3°C for multiple mornings with minimal damage, once established.
@@TropicalCentralValley -3 is the absolute min we get here. Most of our frost nights are only -1 and then only a single night in a row. I think I have a good microclimate for it
I suspect yours will do great.
They look fantastic 🤩
Thank you.
Very nice!! Love it!
Thank you.
Do you need to protect them from cold season? I am from Los Banos..Thanks!
Specific to my starfruit trees, I do not frost protect any of them.
Excellent timing! Was going to search star fruit videos I just got a star fruit today from mimosa
Excellent choice. Be prepared to harvest hundreds of pounds of starfruits per year.
Starfruit are one of the under utilized tropical fruit we can grow here in the San Joaquin valley. My summer crop is sweet, though my winter crop is a bit bland due to the lack of winter heat.
Very true, though my winter starfruits aren’t that bad. Not quite as sweet as the summer harvest, but not bad at all.
What is your growing zone?
USDA Zone 9b.
Thanks for the new video. Very informative. Random question here. Do you play table tennis?
Thank you. Unfortunately, I do not play table tennis, though, if I do, I would imagine the fruits from the starfruit trees would help to maximize my gains.
RUclips had deleted your previous comments. I only saw a glimpse of it, something about “a gentleman at…”.
Fantastic micro climate there. Very Impressed with your papayas. I got so much rain and wind most of my papayas trees fell over or suffering root rot only my biggest Mexican type will survive all my Formosa types are probably not going to make it
Thank you. Fortunately, papayas do propagate quite easily from seed. The two Mexican papaya trees have since fallen unexpectedly. I made a video covering them today (1/30/2022).
Can starfruit be propagated by cuttings?
I do not believe so, though I have not tried it. The primary propagation methods are seeds, grafting and air layering.
Did your trees yellow at first when you first planted them in ground ? Mine is seeming to struggle trying to acclimate being inground
When stressed, including when just planted in the ground, yes. It’s also not surprising that the tree may shed all of its leaves. However, all of mine has always managed to bounced back without issues.
What soil amendments did you used when putting it in the ground?
@@TropicalCentralValley mines just had its leaves folded inwards has dropped its leaves it’s in a well draining area it’s in clay I have previously amended the area with compost and peat moss (+-2 inches) and has 3 inch layer of mulch
Going forward, I would NOT recommend the incorporation of compost into your soil amendments, and instead, as a top dressing.
It sounds like your starfruit tree is having a tough time acclimate. It may not be a bad idea to provide it with some afternoon shade.
@@TropicalCentralValley i wrote it wrong I meant I put around 2 inches of compost and peat moss as top dressing just got a shade cloth I will also try lowering the ph with some sulfur thank you for the advice :)
Thanks for the clarification. It sounds like the tree was planted straight into the ground without any amendments. If so, the tree may take several years to acclimate, if at all.
It’s always a good practice to use 1/3 sand, 1/3 peat moss and 1/3 native dirt when putting tropical fruit trees in the ground. This amendment helps the tree to acclimate and therefore, survive and hopefully thrive.
Hello! It is so nice to see someone from the central valley growing tropicals. I'd love to ask you what cultivars grow best for you in ground and produce the most starfruit for you. I am building a plant list for a community food forest that is being planted in south west Fresno. I am also curious about your best cultivars for growing Jackfruit, Papaya, Banana, and pomelo in Fresno climate.
For starfruits, definitely the Kari variety.
Jackfruits are a bit frost sensitive. Although they’re technically USDA Zone 9b and may grow in our climate, they don’t do well. Even for a matured tree, they would prefer some winter protection. That said, I would recommend propagating store bought fresh jackfruits from seed as they germinate very easily. They also bear fruit quite early as well, generally within 3 years if grown from seed.
Papayas, I have not had any issues with the Mexican, Sunrise and Hawaiian Solo varieties. I suspect you’ll find success with other varieties as well.
The same goes for banana. My Nam Wah, Ice Cream, Goldfinger, Double Mahoi and a few other varieties performed quite well, though their leaves will look sad during the winter.
Specific to citrus, such as pomelo, you’re not going to have any issues. My pomelo of unknown variety is doing awesome.
@@TropicalCentralValley Thank you so much for the information! This is very helpful. Would you ever consider doing a small tour for one or two people? (masked of course, and possibly after this covid wave) We would love the opportunity to ask you more questions so we can build the best possible community food forest for Fresno residents.
Public group tours are actually something I’ve been considering. In previous years, I have had numerous local subscribers stopped by.
The best time would be around the July-August months when the vast majority of fruits are ripening.
I’m available on Instagram at TropicalCentralValley. Please feel free to send me a message there.
Are you near San Francisco? Im in Melbourne Australia - same latitude as SF
So trees i asked about previous are Starfruit - Cool -
I have a seedling kary and Kembangan grafted in same hole 9ft tall on protected East wall - both had small flowering early summer but next flowering will be in early autumn - I cant get fruit set - do you
have any tricks? Ive tried extra K and Bat Guano P but mainly employ slow release like Osmocote and Seaweed fertilisers. - cheers
I’m about 370 kilometers south of San Francisco. Looking at Melbourne’s comparative USDA Zone, you guys are in zone 10b, which is generally frost free.
Specific to your question, if the tree is fruiting, eliminate the nitrogen and increase your PK. I generally use an organic PK 10-10 for my flowering/fruiting trees.
@@TropicalCentralValley ha yes can be frost free - we don't have zones as such - im more warm temperate but our Winters can lag into mid/ late spring - the indigenous called it Sprinter lol sometimes 4 seasons in one day - well thats Melbourne for you
Great video! I’ve got 5-6 starfruit seedlings growing at the moment started back in June of 2021. The seedlings are around a foot tall and have not been protected in full sun and they’ve endured their first frost in Fremont, CA at 31 degrees in late December. Do you know how long they take to fruit from seed?
Also just a random observation, my mamey Sapote seedling started in July has been absolutely spectacular in this winter and is actually pushing out growth in the winter in a 1 gallon pot. It has been outside everyday except for the one day it went down to 31, and it has been handling around 35-40 degrees on a nearly nightly basis for around 2-3 weeks.
When grown from seed, typically 4-8 years. Seedling tropicals, particularly starfruits will fair much better than grafted varieties during the winter.
My starfruit that was grown from seed never took a hit during the many winters and remained fully foliaged.
The always informative videos my friend📹 . Hoping my 10ft tall grafted Kary starfruit will finally fruit. Not sure what the issue is. My small 4ft tall grafted fwang tung flowered 1st yr I received it.
Thank you. Your Kari may fruit this year. If under stress, I found the starfruit trees can take a year or two to “recover”, and during that time, they seem to concentrate on their foliage and root growth.
I suspect it’s just a matter of time before yours will set fruits.
my star fruit tree fell over during a windy night in January, now the leaves are growing but the top of the main branch is dried with no leaves like its dead. What do you recommend that I do?
I would prune out the dried, dead branches. This will encourage the tree to grow additional branches.
Hey really appreciate the videos just a random question
How did you amend your backyard soil so that you can properly plant tropical. I’m having trouble because I have heavy clay soil
I actually have done a number of videos covering this topic.
ruclips.net/video/se7Gik0LRXc/видео.html
@@TropicalCentralValley
Will watch all the videos just wondering how you transform your entire backyard into a plantable soil, fast and efficiently
Sheet mulching will be your best and fastest option. Get a bunch of cardboards (Costco gives them away for free), cover your entire yard with the cardboards then apply about a foot of wood chip. Generously water it.
The mulch will suffocate any weed and as the mulch breaks down, will transfer your clay soil into nutrient rich soil suitable for trees and more importantly, your soil organisms.
How much sun does your smaller carambola between your house and neighbours get at the front? I have a shady area between my house and neighbours (myabe 1-2 hrs sun a day) and wanting to use that space. Wondering if you would recommend carambola or any other tropical fruit tree
Thx
1-2 hours of direct sunlight may be nearing the super bare minimum. Although the tree will grow, their fruit production may be minimal.
@@TropicalCentralValley thanks - yes not much light so just wanted to see your experience on which trees would give that area the vest chance to fruit
I suspect a starfruit tree or perhaps, the sapote family of fruit trees may do okay with the minimal amount of light in that particular section of your yard.
Do you grow any jaboticaba?
I do. I have a 4 year old Jaboticaba in the ground and a seedling Scarlet Jaboticaba which I will be putting in the ground this spring.
Hey do you think we can grow mangosteen in So CAL?
In a container, and heavily sheltered, yes. The thing with growing a purple mangosteen is the insane climate tolerance of the tree. Too cold or too hot and it’ll die. Too little humidity and it’ll die.
There’s online forums that talk of folks in Hawaii having difficulties growing them there.
I should mention though, my three mangosteen seedlings are doing awesome.
@@TropicalCentralValley I have a chance to buy a 15g tree. It’s in a greenhouse. I’m worried that once I take it. It’ll die outside a greenhouse. What if I put it in a microclimate. Think it’ll live? Why can’t I put it in the ground?
If planting in the ground, even in the USDA Zone 10 that you’re likely in, the tree itself, even for a matured one, may suffer from cold stress when the temperature drops below 45°.
I suspect you’ll want to construct a semi-permanent greenhouse for it, to ensure it’s climate is correct.
Lastly, the tree itself may take 10-20 years before setting fruit.
That being said though, it’s be awesome to grow one in California. I personally think it’s worth a shot if given the chance.
@@TropicalCentralValley Thanks so much for the info! Keep the videos coming. I watch every single one!