How we remove a tree #3 : The fundamentals
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Dan and Ryan take on this simple Katsura tree removal. The tree is fairly close to the buildings on the south side, over the top of gardens and fences. On the north side is a large open grassed area that is perfect for a drop zone. Dan talks through his plan and his processes as he works through this removal using the basic fundamentals for removing a tree. Dan explains why in most cases the lower branches should be removed first and the arborist works up removing the canopy. He also explains how you can maximize efficiency when using your second tie in point by thinking ahead about how branches can be reached a specific 2nd tie in point. In this video you will see the good work positioning which prevent the climber from straining and using tools at full stretch, but instead the handsaw and chainsaw are used in a position of full control and strength.
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Nice video. Thanks for making it!
SUGGESTION/REQUEST:... could you please do a video(s) where you go into detain on all the knots and work positioning ropes/lanyards, etc... i.e. how they are attached to your belt, knots, etc. and how you reposition/repurpose you tie-in when you go back up the tree and start working your way down the stem(s). Thanks!
Appreciate your videos, thanks for putting them out. Good to see someone abiding by safe practices in tree work on RUclips. I'd like to suggest using spurs from a safety standpoint. I learned on L-pads and would likely make the same decision you did if I still used them. However, with a good pair of spikes, you will be much more comfortable, have infinitely better work positioning, and won't have to leave potentially hazardous stubs. Just my 2 cents.
Great climber makes it look easy, I like how the hand saw is sharp makes for a great day .
Thank you for the time and effort to put together such a detailed and concise video. I will be mindful of these tricks and techniques moving forward. Very well done!
Cheers for the comments and appreciation
Hey climbing arborist. Not sure if you still read these comments but I'm new to the scene. been dragging brush for about a year-and-a-half. I I started climbing for fun but now I'm trying to get into it at work even though my boss is the main climber. An issue I had this week in the tree was that I was fighting tension from my rope to get a good position with my saw and the crotch I was cutting. Long story short I would love a work positioning tutorial. Your tips prove very helpful when I apply them. Keep up the good work cheers
Amazing how strong the tree is at the peak
Yeah man, trees really surprise you sometimes with their strength
Climbing Arborist Is that where knowing how much side load you’re putting on a tree comes into play? If you were speed lining in this case.
Good Work...A nice steady pace with continuous attention to detail. 👍
Cheers buddy, I'm glad you like the video and appreciate the attention to detail
Nice work Dan! Love your teaching style and the thorough explanations. In my humble opinion I would like to talk a little about spurs. I did not feel comfortable on spurs most likely due to two experiences in my beginnings. I avoided them where ever I could, which was a huge hindrance. I was postponing the training and learning time that is necessary to become comfortable on them. I was limited as to where i could position to make the cut and often that determined the piece I could cut, doable but very limiting and often more dangerous. With spurs I not only have all the options of stubs to take a rest or for TIP, but I can also determine exactly the piece I wish to take and be positioned in the safest location (nearly anywhere). I favor spurs on removals for the reasons you do not. The tree in this scenario definitely lends itself to the work without spurs and is a good example of how one solution should not be applied to every job. Thank you as always! Be Well
I struggle being comfortable with spurs, but I wear them every removal. I want to get my spur game on point with my rope climbing game. For the very reasons Troy articulated. I will swap between tree gaffs and pole gaffs. My largest struggle is having enough core strength and balance to stand tall. Keeping good posture / technique to work with the spurs. Once the wood is small or spar is leaning. If the climb lends it's self to precision spurring pole gaffs it is. If it is mostly a big vertical spar (spruce) tree gaffs.
The next problems are: remembering not to step on my rope / feet. Or that placing my foot in a crotch requires more room. That setting my foot / knee ascender and using then requires MUCH more care. A foot ascender attached to the spur seems like a very eloquent solution.
All of this is well worth pushing through the learning curve to me. As work positioning and efficiency will out weigh my current struggles. Once I learn how competently use spurs as just another tool in my bag of climbing skills. I will still always use rope access when possible, then layer spur climbing on top. For me that being the safest and most efficent (energy wise, perhaps not time).
Great video Dan, keep up the good work!
Thanks Mike
Phenomenal camera shots. Very helpful. Many thanks for going to the trouble
Awesome video. Very instructional and informative. We need more like these
Thanks, glad you found the video informative, I appreciate the comment. There will be many more like this to come
I know this isn't the point of the video but wouldn't it been simpler just tipping it over.
Rope in cut and pull..
Or is it deceptively higher than it looks.
:)
Climb halfway with hooks dump with rope, drive chipper to tree?!
Great job and good presentation. Thanks Dan
Thanks dude
All the i just woulda cut it down comments lol. Please stop endangering people, buildings, and everything else you hacks with a chainsaw. This dude did this tree just about perfectly. Climbing is really the safer way to do trees
nice job Dan keep dragging them branches
Thanks Keith, always branches that need dragging!
Thanks for the amazing videos and the new contest!!!
That's pretty cool no spike I've definitely learned a lot from you're channel over the years keep them videos coming homey .tye high and cut small
Cheers for the comments and appreciation of the video
I live vicariously and don't climb. I am wondering why on a job like this you couldn't pull the tree down rather than climb and piece it down? Thanks.
Very good job. I injured watching it. Bills tree service Gettysburg pa
Wow! Your clear descriptions r much appreciated. Also yur presentation of (numerous) tools needed was best I've seen. Hope to learn how u (directionally) fell back leaners..opposite direction..from over roof of house. Thanks!
Snap cuts - the lower kerf should always be cut second. If you make the upper cut second, the piece could come off and snatch the bar.
Chris, sure, bro. Whatever.
Does it take the same amount of time to isolate a throwline and cut branches on the way up employing a rope walking stationary rope system as it does to alternate lanyards and hand set a PSP? 🤔 That will forever be the question. I, personally, start with the throwline for every climb regardless of objective...
Nice job. Looks like Vancouver.
Sure is
Great video! How is your secondary tie in configured when chunking it out on the way down? Is that’s your fiction saver with the zigzag and climbing line?
Adjustable friction saver cinched up to the trunk with the DdRT line (Zigzag & Drenaline) going through it
Awesome Vid.
Cheers dude, glad you enjoyed it
Hi Dan great video, what the device are you using on the lanyard? And do you prefer it to a simply prusik and pulley? Keep up on the good video's
Trango cinch, it is very smooth to tend, but I do still use prussik also
Great video! Do you have a video of a larger tree, such as a cottonwood you can refer me too? I'm interested in the dynamics of the rigging of larger branches in a tree with a spreading crown.
The video is very nice ! Thank you 👍
Good video, keeping to the basics is something you don't see much these days. In anything if you have a good grasp on the basics your more advance skills will be that much better. How do you like the Drenaline rope with the Zigzag, I use the Drenaline with the Rope Runner and it flattens the rope. Do you know if this flattening of the rope degrades the rope in any way?
Great video, thanks!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video
Great videos! How large of a diameter tree do you feel comfortable tying off on? It looks like you got down to just a few inches at the top. What's a safe diameter for a maple tree in good health for an average size climber before you shouldn't climb any higher (or tie off)?
Hey Dan, great video, was watching and was curious if you use chainsaw protective pants and boots, couldn't quite make them out.
Still Loving your old guide lite saddle btw!
Hi Andrew, yes, always wear chainsaw protective pants and boots when using a chainsaw. The thought of what could happen without that PPE doesn't bare thinking about
@@ClimbingArborist cool, I've been thinking of picking up some Pfanner's have you thought of doing any reviews of the various options we have here? Doesn't seem like we have the same selection that they do in the UK.
Thanks for sharing, great vid as always. Peraps some kind of fluffy mic to improve audio when talking?
Another great vid! Like the explaining about the choice of not using spurs. Did a very similar tree last week and did the same thing. If you don't have to use spurs on a removal I'd rather not. 👍
When Spurs are a glaringly obvious choice I will use them, put when I feel I can be more fluid and efficient without I will opt not to use spurs.
Hey Dan any specific reason you didn't just flop it? It looked like you had plenty of room.
Also what was that thing on your biner going to you bridge(near the zigzag connection) ?
I love my zigzag.
We removed the tree like this because we had plenty of time to bring the tree down in a safe and controlled manner and not risk any damage to the fence or light, and so I could make this video.
The small orange rubber thing on the biner is to stop the carabiner moving around and keeps everything in place
Climbing Arborist I thought that was the reason, thanks for replying & keep the videos coming 👍🏻
You make it look easy when trained ! But you can really get hurt doing this ! It's better to pay the professional the few hundred dollars to do this ! 😀
Thanks Dan, good work as always. Don’t know if I missed it or not. What was the reason for removal? 🇨🇦👍🏼
Thanks bud. The housing complex was slowly removing all of the Katsura trees as the roots of various trees had been causing issues
Very gd video always learning gd stuff
Cheers dude
good show!!! thx.
Just curious as why you wouldn’t trim as you were ascending the tree? Just seems like more work to climb it twice? Awesome video!
I would have
he likes a high tie is point, potato/patato
I chose the high tie in point because I can then work quicker, more efficiently and more comfortably which will probably more than make up for the 5 min ascent to get the tie in point. But everyone has there own preference and this isn't to say mine is the right or wrong way.
One has much better work position with a high T.I.P. Personally on a tree like that i would consider srt.
Lot of use by handsaw. Almost use of right hand in the film. Offen try to work by left and right. Workload split to to arms and somtimes eaven easer the you changed workhand.
Not knocking what you're doing. At all. But if that was me I woulda just bombed it! Thanks for all your vids, I've learned so much from you!
I’m not knocking what you’re doing.....BUT 🤣🤣🤣
How do you like the Drenaline with the Zigzag?
Best DdRT combo there is in my opinion
@@ClimbingArborist Maybe you could do a quick review on Drenaline rope Dan? If you get a chance of course.
Always like 👍✊
Cheers bro
Hallo. We're are from you,Were you working?
Do you render tree service? Do you take credit card as payment?
Just wondering if anyone can tell me what that little plastic piece on the bottom carabiner below zz?
Does it effectively keep from side loading?
If so, I would use 🤔
Good deal 👍
Was there room to drop it? Put a high notch in to shorten it up
With the street light, and the fence, something was guaranteed to get damaged. There was plenty of time to do the job and it didn't take long, that is why we approached it this way.
@@ClimbingArborist good choice, I would have tried to dodge that light post
Where did you get the springy cord for your hand saw? I bought a new saw but don’t know where to get the springy cord. Thank you
I got it from a wild country rock climbing bolt tool. It's amazing
Climbing Arborist wild country rock climbing bolt tool
Climbing Arborist thank you very much
Love your videos... but mate... get your gaffs on for take downs!
Only messing. You do you mate.
P.s do you work in the states?? You sound like a Yorkshire lad.
Haha, I often done you gaffs, I prefer to climb without unless it's just a single stem where spikes make sense. Live and work in Canada but I do hail from Yorkshire
dude, where's your dutchmen ?!?
What if you were to deem a tree unsafe to climb because of dry rot, but you still had to deconstruct it the way you did. How would you cut the tree down? Can you make a video on it please?
Not really possible to make a video until I get a tree with that particular problem to work around. Every situation is different that may present different options to give you a work around.
I ascend to the top by dumping it and processing it on the ground! For safety, never leave limb stobs or stem spires Ever!
Mister negative 👿
is your name really 'Climbing Albert' ?!?
yer looked like just fell it" but hey looks different on camera.
This video is more about presenting the technique of the most simple of take downs safely and efficiently, even if we felled it from the ground it would have saved all of 15-20 mins. The time was better spent creating the video for the benefit of others
Tinggi sekali pohon nya😮😮, kering, anda sangat berani , dalam memenjat
😃
wow. broad daylight. i'm surprised you didn't get busted.
+1 on not using spurs if possible
Gotta disagree with you. Time is money, and spurs are FAST.
Not only faster, but safer. Though uncomfortable at first, they make work positioning infinitely easier, and leaving stubs can really come back to bite you.
@@pedalingarborist safer is debatable, and even when I use spurs I leave some stubs for a comfortable foot hold or crotch rigging. Climb safe!
pretty boring tree... almost not worth hiring an arborist. Good choice sparing the extra weight on spurs, I couldn't afford them for a while in the beginning and got used to it.
Agreed, a very simple and easy tree (for the experienced arborist) but still many points that can be made on basic fundamentals and safe work practices.
That was a job for a pro Arb, not some Weekend warrior with a ladder and a bread knife.
We would just fell it. Done over!!!
That wouldn't have made for a very interesting video though, now would it?
As you say there are many ways to skin a cat but I'm going thumb down on this one. If I couldn't drop the whole thing I would have went half way up and tipped them out. I know videos can be deceptive but this looks needlessly labor intensive.
why did u just cut down like real lumberjack mabe u need more expertise
Maybe you're a dipshit
If I cut it down like a 'real lumberjack' then I couldn't make a video about the basic process of tree removal and work positioning could I?
I’m pretty sure Dans the climbing ARBORIST and not the climbing lumberjack. There is a time and place to fell trees. Thanks for another great vid dan!
Because a direct fell wasn't an option on that job. Forestry and residential tree work are completely different.
probably shouldn't climb trees with a necklace?