Thanks so much for this video. You saved me so much money. I have a 2012 XC60 with 115k miles and my Volvo Belt Tensioner ceased and disintegrated melting onto the Drive Belt Idler Pulley and shredding my accessory belt. The engine is not much different than yours. $100 in parts and 5 hours later… done. I don’t want to think what the dealer would have charged. Thanks again. Great job.
I wanna thank you for posting about Volvo automobiles. These videos really helped me along the way while I was fixing my own 2007 Volvo xC90 3.2L please post more about volvos
You motivated me to work on my 2007 XC90. It was a lot of work. The AC bracket was not bad taking out, but had to separate it to put it back on. The water pump was difficult getting enough space between the power steering and water pump. I had to remove the bottom hose on the power steering and that allowed me work more comfortably. It took me 2 and a half days to complete the job. The tools you suggested worked great! Thanks for the video and for sharing your experience.
Thanks for this video and your tips on tools. I really liked torx ratchet set! I was able to tackle this with ease on my 3.2 07. Oddly my power steering did not have a bolt in the back, I guess who did it last did not bother putting it back. I replaced it.
Even though there is hardly any coverage of a part being removed you explain enough to complete the procedure. This was very helpful as I am in the process of replacing water pump. Very good recording as well. You mention follow the literature, if I may ask what manual are you following? I ordered a Dave Graham Factory Repair Manual for my 08 from Rockauto in PDF and although it shows 2008 - 2014 no where does it specify engines, models, etc. The manual does not cover my vehicle, when I look up to replace a part it usually shows on the opposite side of the engine, images do not match my vehicles...completely useless. Danke!
Thank you very much for this video! I was very reluctant to do this job myself but thanks to your tips I got my belt off. Now time to put it all back together 😁
I had to do this job if you see my comment below only a week later my wife's XC90 tensioner froze and metled the belt and the tensioner pully. I could not have done it w/o this video thx to Ryan. If it helps anyone else, I didn't have the flex head ratcheting wrench but the fixed head ratcheting wrench does work - it's harder to manuever but it works. I also didn't have the small black ratchet used to remove the machine screws from the PS pulley. I just used a T25 bit and taped a 1/4 open end wrench to it and painstakingly removed and installed those. I also was successfull in removing and installing the belt tensioner w/o removing the lower AC pump bracket. I simply put a 10" extension and a universal swivel joint behind the socket and backed out the 1 mounting screw for the belt tensioner. I also decided to bend some of the brake lines away from the PS unit because it was just too tight working in there. I bent them pretty far out of frustration but have no codes on the dash and tested the brakes myself before giving the car back to my wife. I didn't do the water pump or the crank pulley so my job went a little faster. good luck to anyone else who does the work and thx again to Ryan.
@@volvoguy76 Hi i have 2008 xc 90 suv 4 WD is this car has timing belt or chain? i just replace the water pump and belt in the back of the engine , thanks for your time and INFO.
Awesome video!!! I did the job (water pump change) in about 7 hours. Also changed the idler pulley and belt tensioner. It took longer because I forgot to put the belt on top of the tensioner when I out the AC bracket back on and the big problem was the centering pin was ground off in the power steering pump. Awesome video and made the job easy. If I ever have to do it again it should be less than 4 hours. Thank you soooo much!
I can't believe the water pump is connected to the power steering. This is Mt first volvo and it's a 2013 xc90. That power steering is so hard to get to. My compressor went out and broke the serpentine belt. I thought It was going to take no time but no it's extra. Ih well. I'll be better prepared tomorrow now that I know this. In going to take off the tire and get at through there if I can.
Man. Am a little more than halfway through this job on my 2008 xc90 and your video has brought me this far. Except I have an extra black bracket that was with my ps pump bolts and the psychic pump strut and I can't figure out where it was. Ahhhhhh!!!!
thanks! Also when installing the coupler pulley I need to install the new leap seal that requires special volvo tool. I believe the part # 999-7265. I can't find it anywhere. Do you have any suggestions where I can buy it please?
Ryan, Absolutely fantastic video. The best out there on this repair. Thanks. Just a few questions .... is decoupler stud/screw right hand or left hand thread? Web says that head is 10mm triple square but you used T50. Can you enlighten me. You made me want to have a 10mm gear wrench:).
Thanks! Right hand thread IIRC. Righty tighty, left loosey. I can double check the thread tomorrow, as I may still have a spare fastener. Definitely a T50 on this side of the accessory drive for the 2011 XC90. Things may be different for other model years.
@@volvoguy76 Thank a million. the engine in question for me is the 3.2 on a 2012 XC60. Same decoupler is employed so I presumed same bolt as you but other articles said it would be 10mm triple sq . You're a Volvo guy so do you think it's possible different bolt was used in another year but with same decoupler? As best as I can tell, if I have a 10mm double square, the bolt recess would accommodate a 5/16" drill bit shank but not 3/8". If a T50, the head recess should almost allow 1/4" drill bit shank to fit. Since you said you really had to work on the decoupler bolt, I wanted to be sure I gave it a beating in the proper direction. I have not yet pried the cover off to look but the idling noise tells me my daughter's car at 65k might need a new decoupler or new idler. You've given me the info I need to tackle this myself. b.t.w. did you ever get your bit out from behind the oil cooler? You rock!
I had to spray the water pump with wd40 to get it unstuck after removing the fasteners. Also made it alot easier to get to that bolt in the back by loosening up the master cylinder. I was able to bring it forward. Just keep in mind there is a rubber seal behind the master cylinder. Not sure what it's for but it's there and it may come off when bringing the master cylinder forward.
very great helpful video,i have 2008 XC70 over 200k miles,my problem is when my foot on brake at stops Drive or Reverse it makes some clunking,any idea what it may be ,i ll appreciate,thanks for such great job
You may want to check the Engine Torque Strut Mount. Its located on the passenger, topside of the engine. The rubber breaks down and allows the engine to rock when accelerating. Our 2009 V70 needed one at about 110,000. Fairly easy to swap, just need to support the engine from below.
I just found your video after noticing a grinding noise coming from my wife's 2010 XC90 3.2. Sounds like that small pully that you see easily. i don't have a lot of the tools you show in here so not sure if i'll try to make this repair myself. thank you for posting though.
I have a 2007 xc90 and mine stated doing grinding noise as well, I'm at the moment struggling to get that power steering pully bolt.. not easy working with the cold. I hope that is the problem because I see a lot of metal particles near that area.
2.5 according to the Chilton labor guide I have at the shop...add 1.5 if changing the thermostat and gasket...I'm doing this job tomorrow...prepping now using this video....I'll report back in my post
So much unnecessary detail on a lot of things but then when it simply comes step by step why do you not show a detail of releasing the tensioner pulley which is very difficult to deal with and you have no detail.
There are surprisingly few videos on the 3.2L belt replacement, so I'll add my two cents after completing the job on my 2010 XC90 (just the belt, idler pulley, and tensioner). I'm pretty handy, and it took me about 7 hours of leisurely effort. More than half was reassembly. Slow and steady works here. No real surprises. A couple of notes: I did not have the AC compressor alignment tool required for the 2010 model. There are two adjustable mounts; I just tried to leave them in the same place I found them. Seems to work ok, but I'm expecting the belt may wear a little prematurely if it's off slightly. As Ryan says, the only torque spec is 18 ft lbs on the idler pulley. There are a lot of fasteners to keep track of here. Stay organized.
You shouldn't need to really pry out the water pump. There are 6-ish fasteners with 10mm heads. The pump's mating surface is flat, so it's really just pressed against the engine by the screws.
@@volvoguy76 I removed the fasteners but it is stuck. I read online that some people used wd40 and let it sit for a while. Thanks for your video. It has helped me alot!
Just had mine done on 2012 Volvo XC60 it’s recommended maintenance at 120,000 miles. $1184.00. Volvos are expensive to repair because of the engineers that build these cars. They put the most expensive parts in the most foolish places.
To be fair, a timing belt on previous XC90's was a $1200 job. These newer engines have a timing chain.... so you save money here.... but either way, you're in for an expensive maintenance. I did my wife's 2013 XC60 last summer, and it was really painless to do, being the second time around. Access is actually really good once the compressor is out of the way. The water pump becomes especially easy.
The best video available for this job. I watched this on repeat as I worked on mine.
Thanks so much for this video. You saved me so much money. I have a 2012 XC60 with 115k miles and my Volvo Belt Tensioner ceased and disintegrated melting onto the Drive Belt Idler Pulley and shredding my accessory belt. The engine is not much different than yours. $100 in parts and 5 hours later… done. I don’t want to think what the dealer would have charged. Thanks again. Great job.
I wanna thank you for posting about Volvo automobiles. These videos really helped me along the way while I was fixing my own 2007 Volvo xC90 3.2L please post more about volvos
You actually explained that really well.
You motivated me to work on my 2007 XC90. It was a lot of work. The AC bracket was not bad taking out, but had to separate it to put it back on. The water pump was difficult getting enough space between the power steering and water pump. I had to remove the bottom hose on the power steering and that allowed me work more comfortably. It took me 2 and a half days to complete the job. The tools you suggested worked great! Thanks for the video and for sharing your experience.
Excellent details and step by step instructions! Thanks for the great effort in filming this and sharing your experiences. Much appreciated!
Thanks for this video and your tips on tools. I really liked torx ratchet set! I was able to tackle this with ease on my 3.2 07. Oddly my power steering did not have a bolt in the back, I guess who did it last did not bother putting it back. I replaced it.
You are lucky. That bolt is the worst part of this job
Even though there is hardly any coverage of a part being removed you explain enough to complete the procedure. This was very helpful as I am in the process of replacing water pump. Very good recording as well. You mention follow the literature, if I may ask what manual are you following? I ordered a Dave Graham Factory Repair Manual for my 08 from Rockauto in PDF and although it shows 2008 - 2014 no where does it specify engines, models, etc. The manual does not cover my vehicle, when I look up to replace a part it usually shows on the opposite side of the engine, images do not match my vehicles...completely useless. Danke!
Thank you very much for this video! I was very reluctant to do this job myself but thanks to your tips I got my belt off. Now time to put it all back together 😁
I had to do this job if you see my comment below only a week later my wife's XC90 tensioner froze and metled the belt and the tensioner pully. I could not have done it w/o this video thx to Ryan. If it helps anyone else, I didn't have the flex head ratcheting wrench but the fixed head ratcheting wrench does work - it's harder to manuever but it works. I also didn't have the small black ratchet used to remove the machine screws from the PS pulley. I just used a T25 bit and taped a 1/4 open end wrench to it and painstakingly removed and installed those. I also was successfull in removing and installing the belt tensioner w/o removing the lower AC pump bracket. I simply put a 10" extension and a universal swivel joint behind the socket and backed out the 1 mounting screw for the belt tensioner. I also decided to bend some of the brake lines away from the PS unit because it was just too tight working in there. I bent them pretty far out of frustration but have no codes on the dash and tested the brakes myself before giving the car back to my wife. I didn't do the water pump or the crank pulley so my job went a little faster. good luck to anyone else who does the work and thx again to Ryan.
Thanks for adding your comments! Great to hear how others are tackling this chore!
@@volvoguy76 Hi i have 2008 xc 90 suv 4 WD is this car has timing belt or chain? i just replace the water pump and belt in the back of the engine , thanks for your time and INFO.
so the brake lines can be bent slightly to get around? because I'm also getting frustrated with them as well lol.
@@alik3236 The 3.2 uses a timing chain
I'm a seasoned mechanic....gearing up to this job tomorrow...prep - your video....I'll report back...😉🙂
Ryan, really appreciate this video! I completed the job from your video and you saved me a ton of money. Again THANKS!
Thanks so much for the tutorial! Great video
Very difficult situation with loosing torx bit behind oil cooler. have you tried a magnet in a grabber on a flex cable?
all you need is small hands and patience. Luckily, I have both.
Th box on the intake snorkel is a resonant noise canceling device
BRILLIANT!! Thanks! :-)
Was wondering why you pulled the ac bracket but saw you doing wp behind ps pump? Ya you could have left ac bracket
@@jaschalindesmith9525 You can't pull the READ drive/decoupler pulley with the bracket in place, unless the official Volvo special tool has clearance.
Why not disconnect the battery.... at the battery? In the trunk? Instead of the main power lead at the fusebox which isn't actually the battery
Thanks for this
The little box is an air intake resonator to stop unnecessary noise in the intake tube.
Dziękuję bardzo mi pomogłeś rób tak dalej
Awesome video!!! I did the job (water pump change) in about 7 hours. Also changed the idler pulley and belt tensioner. It took longer because I forgot to put the belt on top of the tensioner when I out the AC bracket back on and the big problem was the centering pin was ground off in the power steering pump. Awesome video and made the job easy. If I ever have to do it again it should be less than 4 hours. Thank you soooo much!
Did you have to pry out the water pump after removing bolts?
Excellent video
Thanks for this video. Working on an xc60 with 3.2.
I can't believe the water pump is connected to the power steering. This is Mt first volvo and it's a 2013 xc90. That power steering is so hard to get to. My compressor went out and broke the serpentine belt. I thought It was going to take no time but no it's extra. Ih well. I'll be better prepared tomorrow now that I know this. In going to take off the tire and get at through there if I can.
very educative. thank you
Man. Am a little more than halfway through this job on my 2008 xc90 and your video has brought me this far. Except I have an extra black bracket that was with my ps pump bolts and the psychic pump strut and I can't figure out where it was. Ahhhhhh!!!!
What did you use to get the belt wheel off the water pump spine? Did you just use a small allen wrench?
2 years later and doing it again.. one thing I did wrong was forced the power steering reservoir to far away that the bottom plastic snapped.
Video is absolutely awesome! Thanks a lot! What torque spec did you use for "Idler Pulley", "Tensioner" and Coupling "drive" pulleys?
24Nm, 24Nm, 60Nm
thanks! Also when installing the coupler pulley I need to install the new leap seal that requires special volvo tool. I believe the part # 999-7265. I can't find it anywhere. Do you have any suggestions where I can buy it please?
Mine is a 2013 but S4 engine. Do you think I have a fixed AC bracket?
Newer A/C bracket started in 2011. You should be fine. The wife's 2013 XC60 has the newer style.
@@ryanridgely7807 thanks. One less thing that’s a pain to deal with.
Ryan, Absolutely fantastic video. The best out there on this repair. Thanks. Just a few questions .... is decoupler stud/screw right hand or left hand thread? Web says that head is 10mm triple square but you used T50. Can you enlighten me. You made me want to have a 10mm gear wrench:).
Thanks! Right hand thread IIRC. Righty tighty, left loosey. I can double check the thread tomorrow, as I may still have a spare fastener. Definitely a T50 on this side of the accessory drive for the 2011 XC90. Things may be different for other model years.
@@volvoguy76 Thank a million. the engine in question for me is the 3.2 on a 2012 XC60. Same decoupler is employed so I presumed same bolt as you but other articles said it would be 10mm triple sq . You're a Volvo guy so do you think it's possible different bolt was used in another year but with same decoupler? As best as I can tell, if I have a 10mm double square, the bolt recess would accommodate a 5/16" drill bit shank but not 3/8". If a T50, the head recess should almost allow 1/4" drill bit shank to fit. Since you said you really had to work on the decoupler bolt, I wanted to be sure I gave it a beating in the proper direction. I have not yet pried the cover off to look but the idling noise tells me my daughter's car at 65k might need a new decoupler or new idler. You've given me the info I need to tackle this myself. b.t.w. did you ever get your bit out from behind the oil cooler? You rock!
@@YuDaMan See if this helps: ruclips.net/video/IXxtQteW6T0/видео.html
What booklet are you using for torque specs
Was your thermostat exhibiting no heat or low heat to warn you it needed replaced?
Negative. It was just old.
@@ryanridgely7807 and it fell apart when you took it out?
@@ericullom8169 Exactly.
Did you use the special 999-7262 room to align the air compressor bracket
2011-on doesn't require the special tool. You should be able to get away without the tool on earlier models.
How mamy hours changed belt ?
How do you get the fuse box out of the way
No need to move the fuse box. It's tight, but there's room to move the power steering pump.
I had to spray the water pump with wd40 to get it unstuck after removing the fasteners.
Also made it alot easier to get to that bolt in the back by loosening up the master cylinder. I was able to bring it forward. Just keep in mind there is a rubber seal behind the master cylinder. Not sure what it's for but it's there and it may come off when bringing the master cylinder forward.
How did u first release tension of the belt?
very great helpful video,i have 2008 XC70 over 200k miles,my problem is when my foot on brake at stops Drive or Reverse it makes some clunking,any idea what it may be ,i ll appreciate,thanks for such great job
You may want to check the Engine Torque Strut Mount. Its located on the passenger, topside of the engine. The rubber breaks down and allows the engine to rock when accelerating. Our 2009 V70 needed one at about 110,000. Fairly easy to swap, just need to support the engine from below.
I just found your video after noticing a grinding noise coming from my wife's 2010 XC90 3.2. Sounds like that small pully that you see easily. i don't have a lot of the tools you show in here so not sure if i'll try to make this repair myself. thank you for posting though.
I have a 2007 xc90 and mine stated doing grinding noise as well, I'm at the moment struggling to get that power steering pully bolt.. not easy working with the cold.
I hope that is the problem because I see a lot of metal particles near that area.
At how many miles pully needed replacement?
My top idol wheel does not turn freely. Is that a problem?
How much is the vida software?
How much hours did it call for?
2.5 according to the Chilton labor guide I have at the shop...add 1.5 if changing the thermostat and gasket...I'm doing this job tomorrow...prepping now using this video....I'll report back in my post
So much unnecessary detail on a lot of things but then when it simply comes step by step why do you not show a detail of releasing the tensioner pulley which is very difficult to deal with and you have no detail.
There are surprisingly few videos on the 3.2L belt replacement, so I'll add my two cents after completing the job on my 2010 XC90 (just the belt, idler pulley, and tensioner). I'm pretty handy, and it took me about 7 hours of leisurely effort. More than half was reassembly. Slow and steady works here. No real surprises. A couple of notes: I did not have the AC compressor alignment tool required for the 2010 model. There are two adjustable mounts; I just tried to leave them in the same place I found them. Seems to work ok, but I'm expecting the belt may wear a little prematurely if it's off slightly. As Ryan says, the only torque spec is 18 ft lbs on the idler pulley. There are a lot of fasteners to keep track of here. Stay organized.
3.2l sucks to work on... I always favored to 2.3/2.4/2.5 liter turbos or naturally Aspirated motors to the 3.2l.
Did you pry out the water pump?
You shouldn't need to really pry out the water pump. There are 6-ish fasteners with 10mm heads. The pump's mating surface is flat, so it's really just pressed against the engine by the screws.
@@volvoguy76 I removed the fasteners but it is stuck. I read online that some people used wd40 and let it sit for a while.
Thanks for your video. It has helped me alot!
Just had mine done on 2012 Volvo XC60 it’s recommended maintenance at 120,000 miles. $1184.00. Volvos are expensive to repair because of the engineers that build these cars. They put the most expensive parts in the most foolish places.
To be fair, a timing belt on previous XC90's was a $1200 job. These newer engines have a timing chain.... so you save money here.... but either way, you're in for an expensive maintenance. I did my wife's 2013 XC60 last summer, and it was really painless to do, being the second time around. Access is actually really good once the compressor is out of the way. The water pump becomes especially easy.
Is there a diagram for the belt path?