Chest Freezer Starter Relay Replacement (Different Relay) - Magic Chef HMCF7W2 (Fix It)
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- My chest freezer stopped working, compressor felt hot but would not turn on. The original starter relay was the K115, which is substantially more expensive than most relays out there, but I was able to replace it with a cheap one. In this video, I show you how I rewired my freezer with a cheaper relay and brought it back to life.
Original Relay ($25)- www.amazon.com...
Original Overload Protector ($4) - www.amazon.com...
New Part ($5) - www.amazon.com...
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This video and these links saved me a LOT of time and hassle. Thank you so much. I've ordered the parts and hopefully this will get my freezer running again (I don't like throwing things away if I don't have to).
You saved me from having to buy a new chest freezer. Thank you so much for this video.
Thank you so much ! I had built a kegerator for 3 kegs out of a chest freezer and a temperature controller. It stoped cooling and with your instructions I was able to get it running again.
I had the exact same thing happen. Which temperature controller are you using? I believe mine may be the culprit
Great video. My 38 year old freezer has an intermittent relay. I think this should fix it and the part is almost a drop in replacement for the old relay. Heck for $8 it wouldn't hurt to just have an extra one on hand. Thanks!
Capacitor start motor. initial voltage induces a phase angle in the separate winding. causing the motor to kick over. and then the main winding is the "run" winding. Very glad you got it going. The item in your hand is called a "Clicker" in the trade. Only need the start connection for like half a second. If it is energized all the time, it will burn up.
Clicker never hear this overload call this if clicking something is wrong LOL
Always good to learn something new.
One of this days you gonna have to update to
JSano19-Teacher,Gamer,Nurse,Fire Figther
Thanks for the video. May not be as helpful to some in "how to" actually wire the relay lol but for me I actually just found the same issue today with my freezer which happens to be the exact one here and just knowing what the problem is and what to purchase saved me so much time! In addition the actual original relay is Listed here and all I had to do was click on the link and it took me straight to Amazon saving me even more time and to my pleasant surprise it's now only $20 so I'll be able to just unplug the old and plug in the new without having to figure out too much how to wire up a universal piece. So THANK YOU!
Could you please share the link for exactly same part?
Thank you for this video! My IDYLIS freezer was doing the exact same thing and had the exact same compressor and parts. I ordered the identical part and it came in last night I plugged it in and it worked! The only thing I did different was to removed the jumpers in the white housing and used them to connect the new PTC Starter Relay. Thanks for doing the research so I didn't have to!
Glad it worked out for you! Would be a shame to lose an entire chest freezer for a simple 5 dollar part install. I am 6 months post this video and my freezer is working just as good as the day it was purchased!
Did you check continuity of the starter relay? My freezer is doing the same thing however some videos suggest checking continually and I do have continuity and I’m just wondering if I could still get continuity and it will still be bad.
@@presteatom3773 did you ever figure this out?
@@presteatom3773 Yes it could still be bad... These things are just copper contacts that arc every time it turns on... so that get charred.. and even if it does test for continuity, that doesn't mean that it's a good enough connection for it to pull high amps through it.... same as if you were to hook up very small sized jumper cables on your dead car battery trying to jump it..... even though they would test as a closed circuit, it still won't jump your car............ and that's why large oversized cables work much better, because it can pull enough amps..
was just about to get a new freezer.. Thank you for an excellent video !!! I
Thank you! I have the exact same plastic relay assembly and could not find a replacement. Saved me a couple hundred $.
Do you mean to move the black wire to the number two pin on the overload protector, or do you leave the wire on the same pin and just connect it directly to the top post at the 12 o'clock position?
I know the feeling, at that moment I love it.
Going to try this out on a freezer I got for free. Do you know if the orientation of the pins for the starter relay matters? Not the single "in" pin but the two "out" pins going to the compressor. Thanks!
I sure enjoy Fix It With Jeff :P fun things to learn I didn't know before tbh that can definitely be useful in the future.
that was very helpful and well done Jeff ...
Mine got friend in a power failure. Imagine how little it would cost designers to protect the freezers from this in a way that is much more easily recoverable.
GE KIT WR87X27832 has the all in one starter and overload in it. $50
Works on many chest freezer models.
Thanks same exact problem. U saved me hundreds of dollars
Where did u wire the silver crown for overload protection?
Great fix. Replaced the disc inside the relay for $8 as the original part is no longer available 👍
Someone gave away their freezer because i am thinking thqt they probably had this issue. Hopefully these replacements will help fix OUR freezer
How do you find out what size overload Protector you will need? The part number that’s on it I cannot reference it to anything and I’ve ordered a bunch of different ones and none of them will fit the starter relay so I really need to find out what says I need
Im going thru the same problem and already ordered the relay, but is there a video on how to connect the wires? Because this video confuses me
Omg! Thank you for this God send of a video. I see you got 4.7ohm 1 pin. Now that you completed the task, would you rather have gotten the 3 pin? Or do you think it makes a difference?
Gonna try this out. Had mine a year and woke up one day and all our breast milk was thawed. Hopefully it works
Did it hold up?
I ask because if the overload had tripped, the compressor may have been too many amps due to something mechanical going out such as bearings.
I replaced the relay, but I still heard humming sound and click, then I think to replace the overload protector. However, I pulled the black wire which has the gold mental part on it and I was trying to plug in to the new overload protector, but it wouldn’t stick in. Can you please help to instruct how to plug that gold metal thing back?
Care to post a schematic? My wiring setup isn’t the same. Just white and black wires, but the exact same relay.
where did u got the new part from ? link if you know. exact same relay L01D7 K115 DL. thank you
There is a product link in the video description.
@@JSano19 doesnt seem to work any longer.
Do you need to replace both parts?
I'm having a similar issue with my idylis freezer. I was a little confused. You used the original overload protector and just bought a new universal relay? I'm doing similar products that come with a new overload protector, but if i dont need that, I can save a bit and just get the new relay
Yes, that is what i did, used the original overload protector and just bought the relay.
@@JSano19 Just bought the relay. Hoping it does the trick! I was so close to taking the freezer to the dump before I found your video. Fingers crossed! Anything I should know when it comes to installing the relay? I'm a n00b at this lol
I have that issue but cannot see where the wires go
Worked for me! $10 in 2021
Still working? Or did you end up getting the right relay? I just ordered the oem relay. Looking to see if it works.
How did you connected the black wire on the top pin?
That's the problem I'm having.
Excellent... THANKS..!
Yeah I'm having something similar happen my compressor area will have a clicking sound from it and the compressor won't make that humming sound that it makes as it run i also would have to agree it probably the relay went bad in it
How to take out the front cover of the thermostat. I tried it's not coming out and don't want to apply force. please advise. My Kenmore chest freezer model 255.19502010
When I connect the black wire to the 12 o’clock position it don’t turn the motor all the way on I can just here it on low
Super strange, I have the exact same model but my relay is K115 TY, which is different than your original relay. I couldn't find the part k115 TY online, but I found a similar one, but it didn't work and I don't hear clicking any more. I think the ohm may be different. My original one was a 3 PIN relay but only 1 pin had the blue/white plugged into it. I bought this back in 2015 - I wonder if the design was changed at some point. Just ordered 4.7 Ohm single pin one.
Well the new relay worked, for a little while, then it went out again and tripped the breaker in my house. Not sure if something is bad causing the relay to go out.
I’m having same issues as you, can’t find k115 TY. What part did you end up buying? Thanks
Any idea where the part was ordered from? Website link? I'm having the same issue and can't find the relay switch recommended.
It's all in the video description. Ordered from Amazon.
What if i fixed the relay and its still not working its still not cooling I have the insignia freezer but the same connections
Do they have reset button?
From my research Frigidaire's do.
I have the exact same model of freezer and experiencing similar problem (compressor gets warm/hot, freezer isn't chilling). How did you get the white plastic housing with the original relay off of the side of the compressor? I've removed the black cover to expose the original relay unit and wiring, but it doesn't look obvious as to how to take that off. I'd didn't want to force anything off and then find out there was some kind of screw or fitting that needed to be undone first.
There were 2 screws holding it on. One was holding the 2 green wires on, and the other screw was by itself just below it. The green wires just need to be screwed back to the compressor itself in the same whole (just without the white plastic piece) and the other hole just stays empty.
Never mind, after spending a few more minutes and taking a guess that the green ground wires were going to be attached to the side mounting I found that unscrewing the ground wires allowed me to slip off the relay. Thanks for your video, hopefully this is going to be a cheap fix for a cheap freezer! :)
Replaced the relay, hooked up the overload protector to the top pin with the black wire going into it but no joy. The compressor gets pretty warm (to the point where it's almost unbearable to touch), it's humming/vibrating quietly like I'd expect it to, but doesn't seem to be doing anything in terms of cooling at all. I do notice that as I look at the compressor , the copper pipe going into the left hand side is ambient temperature, but the copper pipe going into the right hand side of the compressor is almost as hot as the compressor itself. Any ideas? No worries if not, it was cheap enough that it's not the end of the world.
@@lescarter9956 2 Things I might try, first, if you used the same overload protector that came from the original, keep in mind that the original "lead wire" coming from it originally was a connection from the board, and you have to move where the original black wire is coming off of the overload protection to the other pin, and that wire now would go to the top pin. If you did this and it still is what you are describing, you could try to (for just a few seconds) remove the overload completely and put the black wire straight to the top pin JUST TO SEE if the compressor would kick on, because maybe the overload protector is what is faulty on your unit.
@@JSano19 Yeah, tried with the original overload protector and hooking it up directly, unfortunately the same results. The compressor is doing something as I can feel it vibrate and hear it hum, it gets super hot to touch. I've tried running circuit continuity checks across all combinations of the pins on the compressor and there didn't seem to be any issues there. At a bit of a loss, other than the compressor is somehow fubar'ed and it's time to get a new one. It's shame, it's only 1-2 years old and barely used, but it was super cheap so I don't feel too bad about it.
7 months later....does it still function properly?
Yup, still working no issues!
Awesome, thank youuu!
A few weeks ago, I noticed it had defrosted. There was no sound of the compressor running. I looked this problem up and a number of results suggested replacing the start relay and / or overload.
I ordered replacement parts, and they have now arrived, however I have misplaced the photograph I took of the original wiring.
The start relay is a 3 pin relay
Could someone please advise on how this should be wired?
The brown and blue pair of wires both came from what looks like a capacitor box. The blue and white wires appear to come from what I believe to be a thermostat box, which is then connected to the mains.
I wish you would have cut open the old relay to see how it works and what went wrong.
When giving out information you should slow it down. I can't write the number down because you said it so fast
There are links in the description that should be able to assist.
I don’t like Redstone tutorials
BloxKilla HOW DARE YOU SAY THAT
You put a wire extension on it... great. For those who are complete noobs, wtf is that? Googling just gives me stupid power strips or extension cords. Not wire extensions.
By wire extension, I just mean a small extra piece of wire I had to make it slightly longer.
@@JSano19 For the life of me, I cannot disconnect the following wire. imgur.com/bKgBqXl I feel like I am going to break something if I pull any harder or try and use a needle nose plyer. Is there something else I can do?
@@JSano19 And to make matters worse, my freezer with the EXACT SAME MODEL # AS YOURS, has a completely different relay. So I don't even know if purchasing the black one would fit either. It's like they want me to buy a whole new freezer.
@@blacksaibot6158 Just rock it back and forth little by little. Unless they put glue underneath, it looks like it should come off, just might take some effort. Just be careful not to break it.
@@blacksaibot6158 Same here this video is wrong in several ways
Dude you are talking way too damn fast giving the part number slow down so people can understand what you are saying
Pssst, you have the ability to rewind, or even slow down the video...