A new Beaver video: Absolutely perfect entertainment for Saturday night :-) Thank you Master Beaver for your great video. You came already up with some very important details I wanted to know. Thank you for your great work.
God, the servo in that thing is LIGHTNING fast, ive never found a servo that quick for any of my cars. Even my mini-z seems slower. Also, you're quickly turning into the Drift King of 28th scale. Nice job! I like the slowed down, body off shots. Theyre very instructive and I think more people doing these kind of videos should do them.
And one more thing. Dear Beaver, we all of us would really apretiate if you could make some drifting shcool lessons. I would really like ot know how you do this so cool. Hope, others too.
Thanks for the detailed information, i really appreciate it. I love all your videos, so much information. It helps me decide what kind of car to buy for the situation (especially your budget k989 videos). They are awesome!
Garage RC already did that. ruclips.net/video/en-pqPext0I/видео.html However if you want my perspective, I have a plan to get it too but not so soon because food comes first. Unless I got a sponsor. 😋
Hi Beaver ! Thanks for your videos, they are great ! I have just ordered the XRX DPA Sport and have one important (for me) question: Does the Mini.Z AMG GT3 Body fit ? Must I cut something to fit ? Thanks a lot !!! Florian
Hello Beaver, Excellent video as usual ! One question remains for me : where did you found these barricades ??? I'm searching on the internet for days and the only I found was the Yeah racing at 13 dollars for 4 barriers, pretty expensive for doing a whole track. Thanks !
Ty for the video can’t wait for the final review! I’m waiting for mine to get in. Btw are those the same toe and camber setting u use for your awd cars?
4WD is easier but if you plan to get to RWD eventually, just go with the RWD right away. The learning curve will be steep but once you pull it off you will feel very satisfied and your muscle memory will be for RWD without having to adjust yourself again.
These wheels are racing wheels from RC Aurora. They are not so widely available unless you look in very specific Mini-Z racing shops. I bought mine from their official website at ppm-rcracing.com/categories/RC%252dAurora-racing/Rims/ .
Yes, it is. The one you see in this video is actually NB4GMR receiver. This is a kit car so you can use any receiver you want as long as it fits inside the shell you use. GMR is the best because you don't have to convert the plug.
Im looking at a kit in the US its artr.... how can i tell what bodys will fit? It says it is for 94mm bodys only. Does that mean MA020 bodies only? Or, are there MR03 bodies that will also work with the XRX?
MA020 and MR03 are basically the same in terms of body. It's the wheels that are different and this car uses AWD wheels. XRX is a wide car so for the body, look for MR03 with "Wide" label (then get the wheels separately because you can't use the supplied wheels in ASC). Although it's very hard to find one these days because all of them are out of production. The one I have, this Ferrari F430 is also out of production very long time ago.
@@BeaversHobby what kind of wheels and tires are good for the XRX, do you have a link so i can see what i am looking for?.... sorry this is my first micro build. Ive been doing a lot of research, it is a little confusing compared to 1/10, which seems much easier to find "the right first kit" . Also, thank you so much for the reply and information
@@k.thomas295 It uses Mini-Z AWD wheels. The wheel offset depends on the body you choose. Normally front narrow 1 or 1.5mm offset with the same on the rear or 0-1mm offset wide wheels will give you good result. As for the tyres, there's only DS racing that has a complete lineup for Mini-Z. LF-5 is the best for RWD drift.
If I'd only pick one I'd go with XRX DPA. It's nicer out of the box and the adjustment is easy. I'm still not perfectly comfortable with driving it but it's so nice to drive. GLD is close second in terms of spending and handling so if you want a tamer and slower car, go with GLD. XRX is very precise so I feel more on edge, GLD is more relaxed. At the end of the day I'd still pick the XRX. I'm trying to get the ball diff for XRX too so that should cure the nervous handling.
As the sinohobby quit producing the cs-mod kit for Mini-Q. - what is the indoor drift car you recommend today? Is RWD the way to go or 4WD with CS-Mod? Price range €80-€160
A lot will still say RWD is the way to go but I think it's still too expensive. It's been 2 years since 1/28 RWD is widely available but the price hasn't come down yet unless you go with 3D printed kit like PWK (which is pretty hard to find). Get an AWD car then CS mod is a much cheaper way to have fun indoor. Or keep it 50:50 if you don't mind not being able to hold the opposite lock though the corners. WLtoys K969 is a good start. Mini-Q Q7 RTR bit.ly/34GTkOv is back for 110€ with updated parts so that's a great place to start too. You might need to change the universal shafts so that will be another 15-20€ and it's a great handling car.
If I may add. Coming from a 4wd drift and gotten into rwd after watching this channel, I would say rwd is more fun. On the rwd chassis, There is a seller from Indonesia that is developing a 3d printed rwd kit. Seem to cost around 50-70usd. Search for Leya ds2 in Facebook.
@@BeaversHobby maybe once your sorted your food, you can look at budget 3d printed rwd chassis. Look up this guy Ahkam Allora in Facebook. Would love to see these 3d printed chassis reviewed by you.
After researching a bit further, and asking around, I‘m also considering the XRX. You recommended the DRZ V2 LE and GLD before, but would you recommend this as well? As far as I‘ve seen and heard it drifts smooth and handles like a bigger scale car. I‘d love to hear your opinion on this. Thanks!
TL;DR It's a very good car to drive but you might need to spend more money than other cars to get it to work or last long. Long answer: The only problems with XRX are that the original chassis is 94mm wheelbase wide track width so it's hard to find a body unless you spend some more to buy the wheelbase adjustable plate and get it to 98mm for more choices. The plastic is also incredibly soft so you might need aluminium gearbox and possibly front bulkhead and steering. So basically almost all aluminium upgrade are necessary if you will tinker with it a lot.
@@BeaversHobby thanks! I don’t mind investing in upgrades tbh. With the 98mm extension, which bodies fit best? Mini-Z Challenger? Or are there any other options?
@@BeaversHobby btw something unrelated, have you ever tried this: ruclips.net/video/mY60X9rQxW0/видео.html Highly recommend, handles really weird, like a larger scale, but it was fun! 👍
Hi. What about compare to HGD1? I got hgd1 now, but I still don't know what is the best setup for stock Gyro. 😂 Should I set it up completely to the right (+)? Thanks.
The wheels are racing wheel from RC Aurora. Front 1mm offset narrow ppm-rcracing.com/products/Mini%252dZ-AWD-Rim-Front-1%C2%B0-%28Gray%29.html Rear 1mm offset wide ppm-rcracing.com/products/Mini%252dZ-AWD-Rim-Rear-1%C2%B0--%28Gray%29.html Tyres are DS Racing LF-4 but I recommend LF-5, they are the new ones with lower grip. Contact DS Racing directly at facebook.com/DSracingthailand/ or look for a distributor near you. For example if you are in the US then www.wolframrc.com/product/ds-racing-20mm-drift-tires-introductory-special-/103 .
Hello, I understood from your videos that bmr-x and xrx dpa are coming out of the box, please help me make a choice, I want the simplest model to set up for entertainment, and is there a fundamental difference in 1/24 and 1/28 scale? ps front motor looks interesting)
The main differences between 1/28 and 1/24 are the chassis width, wheelbase and wheel size. 1/28 normally use 20mm wheels and the wheelbase between 86-102mm while 1/24 is usually 98-120mm with 22mm wheels. However both XRX and BMR-X has adjustable wheelbase (optional extra for XRX but almost everyone does it), XRX is also pretty wide and 20mm wheels on 1/24 scale model doesn't look bad so it's not much of a difference at the end of the day. As for building and driving, I'm giving it to BMR-X. It's easier drive with stock setup. The motor mount is a bit of a pain to set the gear mesh or changing the motor, that's the only downside of BMR-X. Also you'll have to use the magnetic body mount, there's no Mini-Z mounting clip on it. However you'll have a vast collection of 1/24 scale model to choose from.
I'm not sure with 4-in-1 are you talking about but generally, no. An ESC is a speed controller that requires PWM input to operate and no 2-in-1 or 4-in-1 (not sure which 4 are you referring to but anyway) has that kind of output. It's only from a receiver.
Hi Mr. Beaver, I know this is out of topic for this brand model but I thought I’d ask here anyway...Would a FRONT ONE WAY DIFF upgrade work good and will be significant improvement on drifting with stock lock rear diff even without CS mod, on Wltoys? I saw this specific made One way diff for stock wltoys on ALI and it would save me from buying branded universal long shaft and I have no specific parts that I can use for CS mod. Nice vids as always! Thank you in advance😊
Yes, it will improve the handling and it's pretty much a standard upgrade for drifting whether you do the CS mod or not. It'll help the car to initiate the drift easier and create the handbrake effect when you brake because the front wheels won't stop and you can flick the car into the corner easily.
@@BeaversHobby awesome! Thanks as always sir, your vids are always fun but most importantly helpful. I’m limited on funding and parts so I just want to make the best of my wltoys. I even tried just removing the front drive shaft to try RWD the fast and easy way, 100% didn’t work at all😂😂😂 thanks again sir and more power to your channel. You all keep safe!😊
@@adamsrcs7205 I couldn't put the screw in so I tapped every ball end before I install it. I guess it wasn't made for M1.4 but rather M1.2 and forcing it in will crack the whole thing.
It depends on where you are. Mostly for global shipping you can look at Atomic's website miracle-mart.com for the shims. The other shop is GT55 www.gt55racing.com/collections/shim . If you are in the US then check out PN Racing at www.kenonhobby.com/ . For EU, Mini-Z Italia minizracing.it/minizshop .
@@UWANNAPUNCAKE You will have to check the manual and see what part do you need it for. Mainly we use shims to adjust the wheels to prevent them from wobble and those are 3mm inner diameter. For other parts like suspension there are different sizes so you will have to refer to the manual.
Yes, I do. With this much steering angle I can throw the car at an incredible angle and I can still catch it. This also helps with pretty much any situation when the car isn't in line or about to spin.
Depends on the body you want to use, if you want to use Mini-Z wide body or 1/24 then XRX DPA. For Mini-Z narrow body, get the GLD. As for the handling this XRX DPA is the one. Because with a bit of tuning I got it working to my taste very quickly. It's got plenty of steering lock. It's slow and precise (that's how I set it up). Handling is point and shoot. However it's not as relaxing to drive as GLD but overall, XRX is the best for me. I'll be getting the ball diff upgrade soon so we'll see if it can be more relaxing and allow me to make more mistakes. Ball diff has tamed HGD1 for me before so I'm looking forward for the same result. • GLD has the best design out of everything I have. Every part is well thought out from motor position and all the adjustability. Better still, body compatibility with Mini-Z is amazing. They make a great handling narrow car with precise handling and it's so comfortable to drive. However everything was let down by the initial manufacturing problem. It was a money pit for me and their business practice of locking some crucial adjustments under upgrades is not my cup of tea either. That's why it's not my no.1. I like buying just the car and the upgrades should be optional to improve it, not to get the car working. It's a good car but you'll be spending a lot. • HGD1 is easy to build and easy to slide but it's not very precise. This is essentially a modded car so there will be some flaws. But again, because it's a modded car so there are more cross compatibility with Mini-Q AWD and Mini-Z AWD than other cars. • I haven't got the DRZ V2 yet because I knew it would be an improvement over the V1 that I already have which was already a good chassis and I wanted something different. So it got pushed to my lowest priority to buy. Hope I didn't end up confusing you even more but the criteria is what I said at the beginning, which body you want to use.
@@BeaversHobby this actually was an epic response my friend!I already ordered the Noble as my main radio and I'm about to pull the trigger for a car now.i already own a couple mini z awd and looking forward to get some rwd action!o like the fact that the hgd1 is $215 with everything included except the body.But if the xrx is so much better as far as handling then I'll go for that even its more expensive. Again thank you very much!!
Connect the gyro plug with 1 wire to channel 3. As default the dial is the right dial under the screen, turn that to adjust the gain. Basically it needs a variable rates channel so you can map any dial to the channel you plug it into.
Unfortunately I don't have an Instagram. I'd suggest you check the bearings that clamp to the rack. Don't let them clamp too tight or too loose, try pushing the rack with your hand first to see if it can slide smoothly then attach steering linkages to it later.
All the 94mm wide body. - Subaru Impreza WRC 2008, need to sand the inner part of the front bumper a bit but the width is OK. - Ferrari F430/F430GT, discontinued if you find one at a normal price ($25 unpainted, under $50 painted) grab it. - Ferrari 360/360GTC, discontinued - Nissan 350Z GT500 (GT500 is not the standard one), discontinued - Toyota Supra GT500, discontinued - Lexus SC430 the old one, discontinued If you get the wheelbase adjustable plate (optional extra) you can make it 98mm and that'll make almost all 98mm bodies fit except the narrow ones from the FWD series.
Sometimes it does sometimes it doesn't so I'll look into that again. Either steering rack is too tight or linkages aren't set properly. I got the same servo & gyro combination in another car and it's fine.
Time Stamps:
Test Drive: 0:00
Thoughts: 4:38
Really nice, looking forward to the full review if you do make one!
A new Beaver video: Absolutely perfect entertainment for Saturday night :-)
Thank you Master Beaver for your great video.
You came already up with some very important details I wanted to know. Thank you for your great work.
God, the servo in that thing is LIGHTNING fast, ive never found a servo that quick for any of my cars. Even my mini-z seems slower. Also, you're quickly turning into the Drift King of 28th scale. Nice job!
I like the slowed down, body off shots. Theyre very instructive and I think more people doing these kind of videos should do them.
And one more thing. Dear Beaver, we all of us would really apretiate if you could make some drifting shcool lessons. I would really like ot know how you do this so cool. Hope, others too.
Thanks for the detailed information, i really appreciate it. I love all your videos, so much information. It helps me decide what kind of car to buy for the situation (especially your budget k989 videos). They are awesome!
Beaver you are a very good builder and drifter, like your videos.
Excellent! Now I'm waiting for a review on atomic drz2. And comparing them with gld and xrx.
Check out garage rc as he just did the review you are talking about
@@adamsrcs7205 I watched this review. I want Beaver to review. His opinion is more important to me.
Garage RC already did that. ruclips.net/video/en-pqPext0I/видео.html
However if you want my perspective, I have a plan to get it too but not so soon because food comes first. Unless I got a sponsor. 😋
You drive me crazy!
Nice little car you got here.
This is the waaaaan we know beaver is reading our minds now for sure!
Hi Beaver !
Thanks for your videos, they are great !
I have just ordered the XRX DPA Sport and have one important (for me) question: Does the Mini.Z AMG GT3 Body fit ?
Must I cut something to fit ?
Thanks a lot !!!
Florian
If you get the wheelbase adjustable chassis with it then you will be able to adjust it to 98mm wheelbase and it'll fit right away.
Hello Beaver,
Excellent video as usual ! One question remains for me : where did you found these barricades ??? I'm searching on the internet for days and the only I found was the Yeah racing at 13 dollars for 4 barriers, pretty expensive for doing a whole track. Thanks !
A viewer sent them to me. They are 3D printed. I think you can find similar one in Thingiverse or other stl file sharing sites.
Ty for the video can’t wait for the final review! I’m waiting for mine to get in. Btw are those the same toe and camber setting u use for your awd cars?
I use different setting in AWD, mostly around 1.5 degree camber and 1-2 degree toe out.
Great video! Some serious driving skills 👍 would you recommend rwd or 4wd for a beginner(first drift RC car)? Thanks
4WD is easier but if you plan to get to RWD eventually, just go with the RWD right away. The learning curve will be steep but once you pull it off you will feel very satisfied and your muscle memory will be for RWD without having to adjust yourself again.
If i order it will it come with a motor, esc and that stuff?
Yes, when you order the full package it'll come with ESC and motor. Receiver is negotiable which one you need.
@@BeaversHobby oooh now i want one even more, thanks Beaver
Thanks for this review, what wheels are you using?
Just went to your shop, but can’t find these cool wheels.
These wheels are racing wheels from RC Aurora.
They are not so widely available unless you look in very specific Mini-Z racing shops.
I bought mine from their official website at
ppm-rcracing.com/categories/RC%252dAurora-racing/Rims/ .
Hi, great video and great drifting. Is it possible to fit a Flysky receiver to use the NB4 Transmitter? Maybe the FGr4S or the NB4GMR?
Thanks
Yes, it is. The one you see in this video is actually NB4GMR receiver. This is a kit car so you can use any receiver you want as long as it fits inside the shell you use. GMR is the best because you don't have to convert the plug.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you much appreciated.
Im looking at a kit in the US its artr.... how can i tell what bodys will fit? It says it is for 94mm bodys only. Does that mean MA020 bodies only? Or, are there MR03 bodies that will also work with the XRX?
MA020 and MR03 are basically the same in terms of body. It's the wheels that are different and this car uses AWD wheels. XRX is a wide car so for the body, look for MR03 with "Wide" label (then get the wheels separately because you can't use the supplied wheels in ASC). Although it's very hard to find one these days because all of them are out of production. The one I have, this Ferrari F430 is also out of production very long time ago.
@@BeaversHobby what kind of wheels and tires are good for the XRX, do you have a link so i can see what i am looking for?.... sorry this is my first micro build. Ive been doing a lot of research, it is a little confusing compared to 1/10, which seems much easier to find "the right first kit" . Also, thank you so much for the reply and information
@@k.thomas295 It uses Mini-Z AWD wheels. The wheel offset depends on the body you choose. Normally front narrow 1 or 1.5mm offset with the same on the rear or 0-1mm offset wide wheels will give you good result. As for the tyres, there's only DS racing that has a complete lineup for Mini-Z. LF-5 is the best for RWD drift.
Hello, Beaver, so eventually, what to choose? GL, DRZ2 or XRX?
What is your advice?
If I'd only pick one I'd go with XRX DPA. It's nicer out of the box and the adjustment is easy. I'm still not perfectly comfortable with driving it but it's so nice to drive. GLD is close second in terms of spending and handling so if you want a tamer and slower car, go with GLD.
XRX is very precise so I feel more on edge, GLD is more relaxed. At the end of the day I'd still pick the XRX.
I'm trying to get the ball diff for XRX too so that should cure the nervous handling.
@@BeaversHobby Superb!!! Many thanx for an answer and advice. Stay safe.
@@Weaselpro My pleasure.
As the sinohobby quit producing the cs-mod kit for Mini-Q. - what is the indoor drift car you recommend today? Is RWD the way to go or 4WD with CS-Mod? Price range €80-€160
A lot will still say RWD is the way to go but I think it's still too expensive. It's been 2 years since 1/28 RWD is widely available but the price hasn't come down yet unless you go with 3D printed kit like PWK (which is pretty hard to find).
Get an AWD car then CS mod is a much cheaper way to have fun indoor. Or keep it 50:50 if you don't mind not being able to hold the opposite lock though the corners.
WLtoys K969 is a good start. Mini-Q Q7 RTR bit.ly/34GTkOv is back for 110€ with updated parts so that's a great place to start too. You might need to change the universal shafts so that will be another 15-20€ and it's a great handling car.
If I may add. Coming from a 4wd drift and gotten into rwd after watching this channel, I would say rwd is more fun. On the rwd chassis, There is a seller from Indonesia that is developing a 3d printed rwd kit. Seem to cost around 50-70usd. Search for Leya ds2 in Facebook.
@@pejalai Yep, I wish the 3D printed chassis are more widely available.
@@BeaversHobby maybe once your sorted your food, you can look at budget 3d printed rwd chassis. Look up this guy Ahkam Allora in Facebook. Would love to see these 3d printed chassis reviewed by you.
@@pejalai Will do.
After researching a bit further, and asking around, I‘m also considering the XRX.
You recommended the DRZ V2 LE and GLD before, but would you recommend this as well?
As far as I‘ve seen and heard it drifts smooth and handles like a bigger scale car.
I‘d love to hear your opinion on this. Thanks!
TL;DR It's a very good car to drive but you might need to spend more money than other cars to get it to work or last long.
Long answer: The only problems with XRX are that the original chassis is 94mm wheelbase wide track width so it's hard to find a body unless you spend some more to buy the wheelbase adjustable plate and get it to 98mm for more choices. The plastic is also incredibly soft so you might need aluminium gearbox and possibly front bulkhead and steering. So basically almost all aluminium upgrade are necessary if you will tinker with it a lot.
@@BeaversHobby thanks!
I don’t mind investing in upgrades tbh.
With the 98mm extension, which bodies fit best?
Mini-Z Challenger?
Or are there any other options?
@@muaythai193 All 98mm wide bodies will fit great, Challenger included. You can go fancy like Lamborghini or Ferrari and it'll also work.
@@BeaversHobby perfect thanks!
@@BeaversHobby btw something unrelated, have you ever tried this:
ruclips.net/video/mY60X9rQxW0/видео.html
Highly recommend, handles really weird, like a larger scale, but it was fun! 👍
Hi.
What about compare to HGD1?
I got hgd1 now, but I still don't know what is the best setup for stock Gyro. 😂
Should I set it up completely to the right (+)?
Thanks.
It depends on your setup but for stock gyro I used about 40% so the dial is slightly to the left a bit lower than mid point.
Any links for the tires and rims? Awesome vid. Thanks!
The wheels are racing wheel from RC Aurora.
Front 1mm offset narrow ppm-rcracing.com/products/Mini%252dZ-AWD-Rim-Front-1%C2%B0-%28Gray%29.html
Rear 1mm offset wide ppm-rcracing.com/products/Mini%252dZ-AWD-Rim-Rear-1%C2%B0--%28Gray%29.html
Tyres are DS Racing LF-4 but I recommend LF-5, they are the new ones with lower grip. Contact DS Racing directly at facebook.com/DSracingthailand/ or look for a distributor near you. For example if you are in the US then www.wolframrc.com/product/ds-racing-20mm-drift-tires-introductory-special-/103 .
Thank you!
@@rexhamilton9763 My pleasure.
Hello, I understood from your videos that bmr-x and xrx dpa are coming out of the box, please help me make a choice, I want the simplest model to set up for entertainment, and is there a fundamental difference in 1/24 and 1/28 scale? ps front motor looks interesting)
The main differences between 1/28 and 1/24 are the chassis width, wheelbase and wheel size. 1/28 normally use 20mm wheels and the wheelbase between 86-102mm while 1/24 is usually 98-120mm with 22mm wheels. However both XRX and BMR-X has adjustable wheelbase (optional extra for XRX but almost everyone does it), XRX is also pretty wide and 20mm wheels on 1/24 scale model doesn't look bad so it's not much of a difference at the end of the day.
As for building and driving, I'm giving it to BMR-X. It's easier drive with stock setup. The motor mount is a bit of a pain to set the gear mesh or changing the motor, that's the only downside of BMR-X. Also you'll have to use the magnetic body mount, there's no Mini-Z mounting clip on it. However you'll have a vast collection of 1/24 scale model to choose from.
@@BeaversHobby
Thank you for the detailed answer.
@@InfinityLegacyWorlds My pleasure.
Could you posbly plug a 4in1 esc into another esc's reciever box to make the 4in1 ecs act like the reciever?
I'm not sure with 4-in-1 are you talking about but generally, no. An ESC is a speed controller that requires PWM input to operate and no 2-in-1 or 4-in-1 (not sure which 4 are you referring to but anyway) has that kind of output. It's only from a receiver.
@@Retrograde99 Unfortunately, no.
Hi Mr. Beaver, I know this is out of topic for this brand model but I thought I’d ask here anyway...Would a FRONT ONE WAY DIFF upgrade work good and will be significant improvement on drifting with stock lock rear diff even without CS mod, on Wltoys? I saw this specific made One way diff for stock wltoys on ALI and it would save me from buying branded universal long shaft and I have no specific parts that I can use for CS mod. Nice vids as always! Thank you in advance😊
Yes, it will improve the handling and it's pretty much a standard upgrade for drifting whether you do the CS mod or not. It'll help the car to initiate the drift easier and create the handbrake effect when you brake because the front wheels won't stop and you can flick the car into the corner easily.
@@BeaversHobby awesome! Thanks as always sir, your vids are always fun but most importantly helpful. I’m limited on funding and parts so I just want to make the best of my wltoys. I even tried just removing the front drive shaft to try RWD the fast and easy way, 100% didn’t work at all😂😂😂 thanks again sir and more power to your channel. You all keep safe!😊
@@R-EVLMNKY My pleasure. Good luck with the project.
Did you find that the rear drive shafts seemed a bit to short
When the suspension is fully down, yes. However with the shims and when the car is down on the floor it's quite alright.
@@BeaversHobby how did you find the ball ends for the steering as I found mine split so I had to prw drill a slightly larger hole to stop this
@@adamsrcs7205 I couldn't put the screw in so I tapped every ball end before I install it. I guess it wasn't made for M1.4 but rather M1.2 and forcing it in will crack the whole thing.
Hello were would I get more shims and washers because the car I bought didn’t give me much and I need to stiffen up the back arms thank you
It depends on where you are. Mostly for global shipping you can look at Atomic's website miracle-mart.com for the shims. The other shop is GT55 www.gt55racing.com/collections/shim .
If you are in the US then check out PN Racing at www.kenonhobby.com/ .
For EU, Mini-Z Italia minizracing.it/minizshop .
@@BeaversHobby thank you I’m from Australia
Hello again I'm wondering what size shims do need I have a XRX Dpa with the rear metal arms but I don't know what size to get thank you
@@UWANNAPUNCAKE You will have to check the manual and see what part do you need it for. Mainly we use shims to adjust the wheels to prevent them from wobble and those are 3mm inner diameter.
For other parts like suspension there are different sizes so you will have to refer to the manual.
@@BeaversHobby Ok thank you very much for the reply I will have a look to see what size I need if not I will use a pair of vernier calipers to check
Is it worth getting a ball differential for my rwd drift car?
For XRX DPA, yes. I feel it has more control and slide easier at slow speed.
When driving, do you feel the need in THAT much steering angle?
Yes, I do. With this much steering angle I can throw the car at an incredible angle and I can still catch it. This also helps with pretty much any situation when the car isn't in line or about to spin.
Is it a must to have wide rear tires and wheels?
No, it's just a styling choice.
@@BeaversHobby alright, thanks
Between this,the hgd1,the drzv2,the gld which one would you choose?and why?
Depends on the body you want to use, if you want to use Mini-Z wide body or 1/24 then XRX DPA. For Mini-Z narrow body, get the GLD.
As for the handling this XRX DPA is the one. Because with a bit of tuning I got it working to my taste very quickly. It's got plenty of steering lock. It's slow and precise (that's how I set it up). Handling is point and shoot. However it's not as relaxing to drive as GLD but overall, XRX is the best for me. I'll be getting the ball diff upgrade soon so we'll see if it can be more relaxing and allow me to make more mistakes. Ball diff has tamed HGD1 for me before so I'm looking forward for the same result.
• GLD has the best design out of everything I have. Every part is well thought out from motor position and all the adjustability. Better still, body compatibility with Mini-Z is amazing. They make a great handling narrow car with precise handling and it's so comfortable to drive. However everything was let down by the initial manufacturing problem. It was a money pit for me and their business practice of locking some crucial adjustments under upgrades is not my cup of tea either. That's why it's not my no.1. I like buying just the car and the upgrades should be optional to improve it, not to get the car working.
It's a good car but you'll be spending a lot.
• HGD1 is easy to build and easy to slide but it's not very precise. This is essentially a modded car so there will be some flaws. But again, because it's a modded car so there are more cross compatibility with Mini-Q AWD and Mini-Z AWD than other cars.
• I haven't got the DRZ V2 yet because I knew it would be an improvement over the V1 that I already have which was already a good chassis and I wanted something different. So it got pushed to my lowest priority to buy.
Hope I didn't end up confusing you even more but the criteria is what I said at the beginning, which body you want to use.
@@BeaversHobby this actually was an epic response my friend!I already ordered the Noble as my main radio and I'm about to pull the trigger for a car now.i already own a couple mini z awd and looking forward to get some rwd action!o like the fact that the hgd1 is $215 with everything included except the body.But if the xrx is so much better as far as handling then I'll go for that even its more expensive. Again thank you very much!!
@@GeorgePetritis My pleasure.
how do u turn down the gyro i have the same gyro, car and remote
Connect the gyro plug with 1 wire to channel 3. As default the dial is the right dial under the screen, turn that to adjust the gain.
Basically it needs a variable rates channel so you can map any dial to the channel you plug it into.
You have a Instagram? I need help with my xrx . My steering is staying stuck because the steering rack
Unfortunately I don't have an Instagram. I'd suggest you check the bearings that clamp to the rack. Don't let them clamp too tight or too loose, try pushing the rack with your hand first to see if it can slide smoothly then attach steering linkages to it later.
When are u going to make your own car for us to buy? You know it would sell!!
After I finish my study, perhaps.
Mine didn’t come with near enough shims. Super irritating having to wait for shims
Sorry to hear that. I don't know if they change anything in the package either.
ah yes, the blyat mobile...great review beaver!
The only thing left is to put some FPV on it
wow, this little car got some angle he!
It really goes sideways by which I mean it does crab walk to the side. 😁
@@BeaversHobby and backwards drift ?
@@HowToDIYRc Yep, backward entry too but I haven't got the skill to do that yet.
@@BeaversHobby practice practice and practice some more
@@HowToDIYRc Indeed.
8:35 so.. what’s other body shell that will fit to this chassis?
All the 94mm wide body.
- Subaru Impreza WRC 2008, need to sand the inner part of the front bumper a bit but the width is OK.
- Ferrari F430/F430GT, discontinued if you find one at a normal price ($25 unpainted, under $50 painted) grab it.
- Ferrari 360/360GTC, discontinued
- Nissan 350Z GT500 (GT500 is not the standard one), discontinued
- Toyota Supra GT500, discontinued
- Lexus SC430 the old one, discontinued
If you get the wheelbase adjustable plate (optional extra) you can make it 98mm and that'll make almost all 98mm bodies fit except the narrow ones from the FWD series.
@@BeaversHobby thanks a lot… that’s cool…
@@sindbadsailor7868 My pleasure.
Steering seems very glitchy
Sometimes it does sometimes it doesn't so I'll look into that again. Either steering rack is too tight or linkages aren't set properly. I got the same servo & gyro combination in another car and it's fine.
@@BeaversHobby do make a video if you manage to solve it. Thanks
@@pejalai Definitely will. I've seen a lot without this glitch so I must have done something to the car to make it wobble.
Servo causing some drama
Probably my setup too so I will look into that later.