I have a 330k mile '02 and have encountered many issues you address in your video such as the hatch handle, exhaust leak, and valve cover gasket leaks. I changed out the rear hatch latch and hatch gasket and that solved the rear end rattle. A few more problems I'd like to add: Failures of the rear window: I've had to replace the window motor and several others in my forum have had rusty window tracks. Failure of TC/VSC module: Failure of this module creates a dangerous situation of the ABS suddenly activating and many lights on the dash. Chewing through O2 sensors: Don't know if this is a vehicle problem or cheap replacement part problem. Bonus: Replacing the hatch struts and swapping the dome, map, and puddle lights with LEDs were nice quality of life upgrades!
I had the TC/VSC module failure too. Very scary situation when you're going 60mph down the road and the ABS suddenly kicks in! I disconnected the plug connector on the brake reservoir under the hood and have never had a problem since. Downside: no more traction control and lights on in the dash, but I can live with that when the alternative is sudden severe braking at speed.
I've done the rear hatch latch 2x since owning my '06 over the past 10 years. You get really good at pulling the interior apart. Thanks for sharing your journey.
My last 3 cars have been from the dealer and relatively new. Gonna take a leap of faith and get me an 04 Sequoia! Thanks for this information, makes me feel more confident about my decision!
Thank you for this video that you put out I have a 2007 Toyota Sequoia with 210,000 Mi on it most of the maintenance on it was professionally done by qualifying mechanic one thing that you did bring out that I still haven't done and I have to do it is the valve cover gaskets everything else predominantly has been well on my truck, I love my truck and the day that it dies I will cry hard because I have a lot of memories in my family and I enjoy it I love putting my e-bike in it my regular bikes in it and taking off the Florida to Kansas through the back window rails have to be replaced waiting for the weather to get better to do that
Try tightening to about 15ish ft-lb. Meaning medium hand tight. I bought the gaskets so i replaced them anyways, but my bolts were all loose and 99% the cause of the leak.
Thanks for sharing. FYI - Prior to removing and replacing the valve cover gaskets first check to make sure the respective bolts are torqued appropriately as simply tightening them should prevent the oil from leaking as It is unlikely the gasket is defective.
1)Frame rust / dealer did it for free✅ 2) Exhaust Manifold / $2000+ ?)lower ball joint / not yet ❌ 3)Rack & pinion / was leaking just a hole in the pressure line ✅ 4) Valve cover gasket/ Not yet ❌ 5) Rear door latch / did it my self got part from Amazon $25 THANX 💪🏿
I'm looking at buying a 2008 Toyota Sequoia SR5. from a Lexus dealership in California. Thanks for this video. It has alerted me about what to look for and also what my mechanic should look for. The frame corrosion will be the deal breaker for me to not buy the car. This Sequoia has had 4 owners. It was first sold and owned in Tennessee where salt is regularly used to clear snow and ice from the road. It failed its first emissions test in California but apparently something was fixed and since then has passed all subsequent California emissions tests. While examining this vehicle I am going to ask pointed questions about the five main issues you talked about in your video. Because of your video, I will at least go into this possible purchase better prepared. I am about midget size and elderly. I am sure the dealership salesman will be surprise by my tenacity at insisting on looking at the undercarriage of this SUV with my big flashlight and a screw driver to poke around at what I suspect may be rust spots and places the dealership may have sandblasted and painted over to disquise rust.
I have the exhaust manifold issue on my 05 sequoia. Another is the p2445 secondary air pump plus the air suspension leak and steering rack vibration due to loose rubber bushing in the passenger side. Most of the issue mentioned.
I will give you the ball joints and all the rubber bushings. I would add wheel bearings. The valve cover gasket is something that has to be replaced per manufacturing recommendation also the timing belt. Finally the rear hatch. After replacing it 3times, I finally replaced it with a pull cord.
excellent video!! I have a first Gen and its awesome. The starter motor should be a major one. It is located underneath the manifold!! The timing belt is the big one also...
Also the transmission oil not that easy you need to crawl underneath check it through a little drain plug. And starter need to remove the intake manifold.
Problem with stretched shifter cable. Won't go into park. The cable needs replacing. The rear window easily gets corroded and fails. Toyota just replaced my frame for $18,000 as a settlement in a class-action suit. It's not a recall, so they won't inform you for remediation.
I went to buy I Toyota Sequoia 03 in An use dealer car and when I checked the frame it was so rusty the only 2 inches keeping together the frame and I tried to drop the price and the guy said no because you have to check the car before you buy if you don’t check the car before you buy you lose
Hi, 3 quick questions. How much lift do you have on that truck? What size tires are you using? Where did you get the front and rear bumpers? I have a 2002 White Limited.
Bought a used 04 Sequoia with a really strong frame....... except for the rear shock tower plate is ripped from the cross member frame as well as it has ripped the rectangular main frame. So my question is, is this a 'previous owner' impact damage or is this common on these vehicles?
it is a modified ironman4x4 LC100 series classic bumper. I am a bit bummed for a few reasons. I had taken this project on to modify their subframe bracket in efforts of giving the sequoia community another bumper option at a cheaper price. it comes powder coated and shipped for free all for under $1000. Even if someone had to pay to get the subframe mount modified, it would still probably be cheaper than other option. I was working with ironman4x4 in hopes to get a cheaper price for the community, however they pulled the rug out from under me after i had taken the project on and was asking for the coupon code. so shame on them for that. secondly, the subframe modification is a bit more than i was hoping it to be as well. no issues if you can fabricate metal without much effort, but not everyone has access to the equipment or skills to do so. It is about 90% complete, i still have to make some modifications and bring the bumper up a bit, but i need to modify the winch plate and install the winch before I can adjust the height of the bumper. there will be a video released once i am finished along with the cad drawings of all the modifications I needed to make on the subframe
Awesome appreciate the videos just got a 2005 Sequoia. I had been looking for an Arb bumper mod with no luck. The ironman bumper looks about the same to me. Looking forward to that bumper video. Keep up the good work!
@@jasonwitt6230 yea same here, i really like the look of the arb and this bumper seems to be a replica of it with some additional benefits. i will have that video out soon
Front is an LC100 series bumper I modified from ironman4x4 I have a video on both installs front and rear on my channel. The rest is a brute force Fab bumper
Hey! Thanks for watching. The rear bumper is a brute force Fab bumper. It’s really hard to get in contact with them since they are a small shop and have a ton of work. If you want to go that route you have to be vigilant and willing to come across as desperate and annoying until you finally get a hold of people from their shop. Call, text, email, all of the above… regularity. The front bumper is an ironman4x4 LC100 series bumper. I had to modify it to fit the sequoia and actually filming the final clips to release thst video soon. I was hoping to have that mod video out last year but got extremely busy with a lot of other things since I’m sadly not a full time RUclipsr.
@@isaacspoon thanks for the info! Not sure I want different bumpers, just looking into options. My real dilemma I need to address right now is finding a place for my full sized spare. I’m running 285/70r17. I’m sure I could let enough air out of it to get it in the stock location, but that just sounds like a pain and then I’ve got to have air onboard if I ever need the spare. Any thoughts?
@@prienbolt there is a trailer hitch tire mount that a lot of people use. And there is a modification using the factory bumper. Only requires a little fabrication, but it adds a swing out to the rear which could also manage the spare
3k to remove the oil pan gasket because the motor needs to come out to get to it . 20hr job apparently. I’ve gotten 2 quotes now . 3,000 to replace a gasket is insane. I’m sure it’s not common because it’s my vehicle .
So right off the bat, the rusting issue is not specifically a Toyota Sequoia problem. Any vehicle that spends any time north of the salt belt states will have issues with rust on the frame.
I guess you didn’t see where Toyota had an entire recall because they didn’t properly coat the frames with rust preventive? Do some googling you’ll see it is a specific problem that pops up more common than it should. It not just a generic “rust” problem.
@@isaacspoon 🤔 still only a North problem. Boxed frame have always had problem with rust because moisture and water tend to accumulate in the frame. The caveat is that it's a strong frame. 🤓
My 2002 sequoia v8 4.7L is having a faint raddeling sound kinda sounds like a knock but it isnt like a rod knock it's very faint and also my idler pully is squealing
It could be the exhaust manifold leak. They get tiny pinholes in them and then sound like a knock. After the engine is warm, and metal expands, the ticking sounds goes away. Could that be the issue or does the tick/knock sound stay even when the motor is warm
@@isaacspoon very cool Isaac.i appreciate that.what about the key fab to open the back hatch? im having an issue opening the door to even try fixing it...do you have the key fab info? you da man
THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR LATCH ACTUATOR STOPS WORKING AND WILL NO LONGER LOCK OR UNLOCK THE FRONT DOORS OF THE VEHICLE. BUY TOYOTA OEM ACTUATOR AND DOOR LOCK. PASS ON THE CHEAPER KNOCK OFFS
If you pin a comment you make or one of your viewers showing a list of the common issues with time stamps, for example: 6:44 - 5th common issue when buying First Gen Toyota Sequoias.
I have a 330k mile '02 and have encountered many issues you address in your video such as the hatch handle, exhaust leak, and valve cover gasket leaks. I changed out the rear hatch latch and hatch gasket and that solved the rear end rattle.
A few more problems I'd like to add:
Failures of the rear window: I've had to replace the window motor and several others in my forum have had rusty window tracks.
Failure of TC/VSC module: Failure of this module creates a dangerous situation of the ABS suddenly activating and many lights on the dash.
Chewing through O2 sensors: Don't know if this is a vehicle problem or cheap replacement part problem.
Bonus: Replacing the hatch struts and swapping the dome, map, and puddle lights with LEDs were nice quality of life upgrades!
By far the BEST solution to the rear latch problems! Check it out!
ruclips.net/video/FrD28MXAMNY/видео.html
I had the TC/VSC module failure too. Very scary situation when you're going 60mph down the road and the ABS suddenly kicks in! I disconnected the plug connector on the brake reservoir under the hood and have never had a problem since. Downside: no more traction control and lights on in the dash, but I can live with that when the alternative is sudden severe braking at speed.
@@red_bearded_brian I leave it unplugged in the winter time so I can do spiny spins 😂 I can imagine that was scary though!
Which forums?
I've done the rear hatch latch 2x since owning my '06 over the past 10 years. You get really good at pulling the interior apart. Thanks for sharing your journey.
My last 3 cars have been from the dealer and relatively new. Gonna take a leap of faith and get me an 04 Sequoia! Thanks for this information, makes me feel more confident about my decision!
Thank you for this video that you put out I have a 2007 Toyota Sequoia with 210,000 Mi on it most of the maintenance on it was professionally done by qualifying mechanic one thing that you did bring out that I still haven't done and I have to do it is the valve cover gaskets everything else predominantly has been well on my truck, I love my truck and the day that it dies I will cry hard because I have a lot of memories in my family and I enjoy it I love putting my e-bike in it my regular bikes in it and taking off the Florida to Kansas through the back window rails have to be replaced waiting for the weather to get better to do that
Try tightening to about 15ish ft-lb. Meaning medium hand tight. I bought the gaskets so i replaced them anyways, but my bolts were all loose and 99% the cause of the leak.
Same! I’’ at 223.768! I love it and will cry when she’s gone!
Thanks for sharing.
FYI - Prior to removing and replacing the valve cover gaskets first check to make sure the respective bolts are torqued appropriately as simply tightening them should prevent the oil from leaking as It is unlikely the gasket is defective.
1)Frame rust / dealer did it for free✅
2) Exhaust Manifold / $2000+
?)lower ball joint / not yet ❌
3)Rack & pinion / was leaking just a hole in the pressure line ✅
4) Valve cover gasket/ Not yet ❌
5) Rear door latch / did it my self got part from Amazon $25
THANX 💪🏿
2000 for exhaust manifold?
How long again Toyota do the frame rust? Wondering if I can still have my 2003 Toyota frame covered free of charge e
Yorksolutions makes the power hatch latch
I'm looking at buying a 2008 Toyota Sequoia SR5. from a Lexus dealership in California. Thanks for this video. It has alerted me about what to look for and also what my mechanic should look for. The frame corrosion will be the deal breaker for me to not buy the car. This Sequoia has had 4 owners. It was first sold and owned in Tennessee where salt is regularly used to clear snow and ice from the road. It failed its first emissions test in California but apparently something was fixed and since then has passed all subsequent California emissions tests. While examining this vehicle I am going to ask pointed questions about the five main issues you talked about in your video. Because of your video, I will at least go into this possible purchase better prepared. I am about midget size and elderly. I am sure the dealership salesman will be surprise by my tenacity at insisting on looking at the undercarriage of this SUV with my big flashlight and a screw driver to poke around at what I suspect may be rust spots and places the dealership may have sandblasted and painted over to disquise rust.
By far the BEST solution to the rear latch problems! Check it out!
ruclips.net/video/FrD28MXAMNY/видео.html
I have the exhaust manifold issue on my 05 sequoia. Another is the p2445 secondary air pump plus the air suspension leak and steering rack vibration due to loose rubber bushing in the passenger side. Most of the issue mentioned.
I will give you the ball joints and all the rubber bushings. I would add wheel bearings. The valve cover gasket is something that has to be replaced per manufacturing recommendation also the timing belt. Finally the rear hatch. After replacing it 3times, I finally replaced it with a pull cord.
My husband just ran the pull cord beside the broken handle.
@@Mama_T85 if it works, it works🤓
excellent video!! I have a first Gen and its awesome. The starter motor should be a major one. It is located underneath the manifold!! The timing belt is the big one also...
Also the transmission oil not that easy you need to crawl underneath check it through a little drain plug. And starter need to remove the intake manifold.
Problem with stretched shifter cable. Won't go into park. The cable needs replacing. The rear window easily gets corroded and fails. Toyota just replaced my frame for $18,000 as a settlement in a class-action suit. It's not a recall, so they won't inform you for remediation.
I went to buy I Toyota Sequoia 03 in An use dealer car and when I checked the frame it was so rusty the only 2 inches keeping together the frame and I tried to drop the price and the guy said no because you have to check the car before you buy if you don’t check the car before you buy you lose
Mine is bad, back doff is rumbling and clanking, turns out the control arms are loose, also my truck runs way to lean!
Hi, 3 quick questions. How much lift do you have on that truck? What size tires are you using? Where did you get the front and rear bumpers? I have a 2002 White Limited.
I have videos on all of those topics! Check out my channel if you want a closer look into them. Thanks for watching
Thanks For all the great Info.
Bought a used 04 Sequoia with a really strong frame....... except for the rear shock tower plate is ripped from the cross member frame as well as it has ripped the rectangular main frame. So my question is, is this a 'previous owner' impact damage or is this common on these vehicles?
I have no official answer to this, however if it doesn’t look rusted, it most likely is due to previous owner damage
Thanks for the info. Just curious...what front bumper are you running?
it is a modified ironman4x4 LC100 series classic bumper. I am a bit bummed for a few reasons. I had taken this project on to modify their subframe bracket in efforts of giving the sequoia community another bumper option at a cheaper price. it comes powder coated and shipped for free all for under $1000. Even if someone had to pay to get the subframe mount modified, it would still probably be cheaper than other option. I was working with ironman4x4 in hopes to get a cheaper price for the community, however they pulled the rug out from under me after i had taken the project on and was asking for the coupon code. so shame on them for that. secondly, the subframe modification is a bit more than i was hoping it to be as well. no issues if you can fabricate metal without much effort, but not everyone has access to the equipment or skills to do so. It is about 90% complete, i still have to make some modifications and bring the bumper up a bit, but i need to modify the winch plate and install the winch before I can adjust the height of the bumper. there will be a video released once i am finished along with the cad drawings of all the modifications I needed to make on the subframe
Awesome appreciate the videos just got a 2005 Sequoia. I had been looking for an Arb bumper mod with no luck. The ironman bumper looks about the same to me. Looking forward to that bumper video. Keep up the good work!
@@jasonwitt6230 yea same here, i really like the look of the arb and this bumper seems to be a replica of it with some additional benefits. i will have that video out soon
👍🏼nice!! how high is your lift?
Thanks really informative.
What kind of front and rear bumper you got on your sequoia? Looks amazing
Front is an LC100 series bumper I modified from ironman4x4 I have a video on both installs front and rear on my channel. The rest is a brute force Fab bumper
@@isaacspoon thank you… will definitely watch those videos. Appreciate sharing the knowledge
Just picked up an ‘02 sequoia. What bumpers do you have on yours? Thanks for the video. I think I might have the minor exhaust manifold leak going on.
Hey! Thanks for watching. The rear bumper is a brute force Fab bumper. It’s really hard to get in contact with them since they are a small shop and have a ton of work. If you want to go that route you have to be vigilant and willing to come across as desperate and annoying until you finally get a hold of people from their shop. Call, text, email, all of the above… regularity.
The front bumper is an ironman4x4 LC100 series bumper. I had to modify it to fit the sequoia and actually filming the final clips to release thst video soon. I was hoping to have that mod video out last year but got extremely busy with a lot of other things since I’m sadly not a full time RUclipsr.
@@isaacspoon thanks for the info! Not sure I want different bumpers, just looking into options. My real dilemma I need to address right now is finding a place for my full sized spare. I’m running 285/70r17. I’m sure I could let enough air out of it to get it in the stock location, but that just sounds like a pain and then I’ve got to have air onboard if I ever need the spare. Any thoughts?
@@prienbolt there is a trailer hitch tire mount that a lot of people use. And there is a modification using the factory bumper. Only requires a little fabrication, but it adds a swing out to the rear which could also manage the spare
3k to remove the oil pan gasket because the motor needs to come out to get to it . 20hr job apparently. I’ve gotten 2 quotes now . 3,000 to replace a gasket is insane. I’m sure it’s not common because it’s my vehicle .
So right off the bat, the rusting issue is not specifically a Toyota Sequoia problem. Any vehicle that spends any time north of the salt belt states will have issues with rust on the frame.
I guess you didn’t see where Toyota had an entire recall because they didn’t properly coat the frames with rust preventive? Do some googling you’ll see it is a specific problem that pops up more common than it should. It not just a generic “rust” problem.
@@isaacspoon 🤔 still only a North problem. Boxed frame have always had problem with rust because moisture and water tend to accumulate in the frame. The caveat is that it's a strong frame. 🤓
My 2002 sequoia v8 4.7L is having a faint raddeling sound kinda sounds like a knock but it isnt like a rod knock it's very faint and also my idler pully is squealing
It could be the exhaust manifold leak. They get tiny pinholes in them and then sound like a knock. After the engine is warm, and metal expands, the ticking sounds goes away. Could that be the issue or does the tick/knock sound stay even when the motor is warm
@@isaacspoon do you think it will pass emissions with this issue?
@@robertandrews8686 yea it should pass emissions with the manifold leak. It typically goes away after the metal warms up
@@isaacspoon very cool Isaac.i appreciate that.what about the key fab to open the back hatch? im having an issue opening the door to even try fixing it...do you have the key fab info? you da man
Great VIDEO 😊
THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR LATCH ACTUATOR STOPS WORKING AND WILL NO LONGER LOCK OR UNLOCK THE FRONT DOORS OF THE VEHICLE. BUY TOYOTA OEM ACTUATOR AND DOOR LOCK. PASS ON THE CHEAPER KNOCK OFFS
good video buddy
If you pin a comment you make or one of your viewers showing a list of the common issues with time stamps, for example: 6:44 - 5th common issue when buying First Gen Toyota Sequoias.
I just bought a 2006 sequoia I only hear the ticking when I accelerate is that the same problem either the manifold
No
@@steve-mr8wg what do u think ticking when acceleration could indicate?
@@dietpiediaries6287 possible lifter noise
Don’t replace your ball joints they were recalled just call Toyota they will replace them free the pen is what breaks off