Along time ago, when I would complain about all the junk I had to move to get at whatever I was supposed to work on. The company owner pointed out that it all paid the same. Start time was when the technician arrived on site. Extra half hour moving junk, vacuuming room, etc. was no problem.
These furnaces are not old. Two years ago, I had my gas furnace replaced that was made in 1959. Not kidding. That would make it 61 years old. The heat exchanger was rusting really bad. I bet the new furnace does not last that long. A few days before the change-out I cleaned up the furnace room and added 2 long strips LED lighting to brighten it up. They said it was the cleanest and brightest room they had ever seen. I told them I don't like to work in dirty, dark places either.
"killer condensate", it never fails to find it's way down onto the boards/controls. when I seen the orange rusty stains in bottom and on outside, I assumed the board was whacked.
As a technician of 24 years yes a jumper pack does work if you have one like what I have where you have an inline 5 amp resettable fuse then it's great cuz you can jump out many things but to make this job quicker and easier for people you should have simply owned across the pressure switch and followed the wiring diagram a call for heat which you call for the induced draft motor as well as a hot surface igniter if it had one or a standing pilot or electronic pilot you could have tested the top of the actual gas valve if it was getting power during a heat call and work backwards it would be a lot faster than gas and on things also everyone seems to always forget safety switches specifically this design that high limits safety sticks out about 3 in inside the metal is also subject to having the water from the drain pan and the coil drip on it so it can get corroded and go bad
Yeah I know what you mean after doing it for 28 years 🙂. Both of these furnaces are brain dead simple repairs, but most residential furnace repairs are, no surprise there. To be truthful I had absolutely nothing else to show that week and I wanted these videos off my computer. I've always preferred using a multimeter in the voltage position to test safeties and switches because I've been screwed in the past by switches that were capable of showing closed with a ohm meter but when put underneath a load they would open up and that's why I used my volt meter to check the pressure switch, plus you have to isolate a switch when testing in ohms, that takes more time and then your taking a chance of damaging the switch terminals, Also I would never use a 5 amp breaker because you've just over loaded most 24v circuit boards and the transformer most of them are usually 40va and (max of 1.66 amps) and fused at 3 amps which is the size breaker I used on my jumper but I haven't used that for I don't know how many years. Thanks for checking out the video 👍👍
Your description and troubleshooting are excellent examples of good diagnostic procedures for young guys just coming into the trade. When you said you were in junior high in 1993 you made me feel old.
@@HVACRSurvival I think I was a junior in 1980. I know it’s not much older. But if you think you’re feeling something in your knees and your back and you might make a little bit of grunting noises when you stand up or pick something up you’re really going to be feeling it in another 13 years.
Good job Rick, I learned on an analog meter and jumper wires when I started, the younger generation doesn't realize how nice the new techs have it. Good work there DJ Rick.
Back then it was a nicer world it seemed. Slower paced. The cost of living was lower. Now technology has advanced and continually makes humans unnecessary, and those humans that are employed are often times doing the work of 5-10 people in comparison to 30-40 years ago. The grass isn't greener on the other side! Your analog meter and jumpers may have helped to keep your sanity.
I remember those digital Honeywell t-stats. My parents house had one untill they had to replace the furnace, it had heat/cool switch and I think I a fan switch. One of the buildings I work also have a version that is used on an ancient multizone damper system to control the roof top air handlers, those too have a heat/cool/auto/off and fan on/auto switch on the bottom.
'93 doesn't seem that old to me. When I first started they were still using vacuum tubes in industrial/commercial flame safeguard controls. I can still remember the tube numbers for the old Fireyes.
My HVAC/R instructor gave me a bunch of Amperite time delay tubes and the pilot relay that went with them. (In his words, "you're the one person I know who'd appreciate these", and he wasn't wrong. Around that same time I found a Simpson 260 hiding in the lab. After some new batteries, I gave it the first use it had likely seen in decades.)
Those Amperite time delay tubes were used in draft controllers to prevent nuisance shutdowns due to momentary low draft conditions. I remember carrying the Simpson 260 but you also had to carry a Honeywell micro amp meter to read their flame signal. The Simpson was good for the Fireye's VDC readings though. Don't get me started on the antiquated ways that we performed combustion tests.
Circuit boards, electronic ignition, jet engine burners, WTH??? Ah, the ole Honeywell T87, the round one. I feel better now. Thanks. Never got to work on one of those fancy furnaces. Now I feel old...
Son you're a baby 🍼 but you're very good technician. I'm probably more than three times your age. But you're still one of the best. The only thing I'd really like to see you do is wear rubber gloves when you handle your new electronic boards. I designed and built electronic boards for years. And I know that the least bit of static can knock out parts. Or weaken parts. This will cause you to have to make more recalls. But that could make you more money. Just a suggestion from years of experience. You're super good technician. Keep up the super work.
Thanks Beryl! I always touch the grounded frame of the furnace first before touching the edges of the pc board. I know you're correct, luckily these boards are very basic with no MOSFETs or other super sensitive circuits.
much of the parts and boards have protection built in now days and you'd have to try hard to break them via static discharge. it's nothing like the early field effect transistors and IC's where they'd nuke themselves if you looked at them wrong from twenty feet across the room! but, that's no excuse to be sloppy and not use proper antistatic work methods at all times.
In that first furnace, I'm a little surprised that the ignition control box doesn't control the inducer. I still see those Chronotherm III 'stats pretty often, and very occasionally I'll see the older generation with an analog clock and synchronous motor...still working just fine. I bought that Depstech camera after seeing it in one of your previous videos. I've been really happy with it so far. It replaced a Harbor Freight special that drowned. For extra fun, you can plug the Depstech's camera into a computer's USB port. It's nothing more than a USB video class camera, although I haven't yet figured out how to enable the side facing camera.
Wow a blast from the past ... Good info and I bought that inspection camera off your site ... Thx for sharing my good friend ... Hey to Chronic cause we all love her ...
Where are you where you are using heat right now 😂 or is this an old saved video? Anyway I like the residential videos cause that’s what I do for a living 😃 wow an old chronotherm stat jeez brings me back and I’m only 16 years into this trade, I still see em out there tho
Cracked solder connections due to age. If it were my furnace, I'd break out the soldering iron and re-solder all of the spades and relay connections. However a new board is the way to go so you don't end up with a call back. Never mind, didn't see the corrosion til you got the board out.
I was guessing it was a bad relay, though it could have been the corrosion. In any case a DIY fix would have been to replace one or both relays, and if necessary add a jumper over any corroded traces. However, that is a DIY fix, not one I'd sell to someone.
Boa Noite todas tem o mesmo modelo de placas? Aqui no Brasil nunca centrais que tem a parte de aquecimento por gás, corre algum risco de fazer brasagem? Parabéns
If the translation is correct, you’re asking if there’s any risk in brazing I’m assuming you’re referring to brazing refrigerant lines while you have a gas appliance underneath of it? If that is the question then no, there’s no risk because the gas is sealed in either copper or metal piping.
Boa tarde legal que vc responde pra gente. Aqui no Brasil nunca vi este sistema em central. So em split. As placas deste equipamento e padrão? Todas sao iguais ou muda de modelo?
@@HVACRSurvival we all going to learn something new every day, and like you said in one of the video I watched today, people that going around and talking how they know everything they probably not telling truth
Dude, everything I start to record goes to crap. This has been sitting on my computer for about a year and I wanted to delete it so guess what you get to see it 🤣🤣🤣
@@HVACRSurvival May I cast a vote to say I prefer the intros without the music? More seriously, I don't really care either way, but I would vote for a slight volume reduction in the music. It's much louder than the rest of the audio track.
Blows my mind when people don't clean out the area before the tech gets there. They know the time frame, move shit out of the way!!
It happens everyday.
Along time ago, when I would complain about all the junk I had to move to get at whatever I was supposed to work on. The company owner pointed out that it all paid the same. Start time was when the technician arrived on site. Extra half hour moving junk, vacuuming room, etc. was no problem.
We Dig It!
Thank you for taking us along on this service call.
Thank you!
These furnaces are not old. Two years ago, I had my gas furnace replaced that was made in 1959. Not kidding. That would make it 61 years old. The heat exchanger was rusting really bad. I bet the new furnace does not last that long. A few days before the change-out I cleaned up the furnace room and added 2 long strips LED lighting to brighten it up. They said it was the cleanest and brightest room they had ever seen. I told them I don't like to work in dirty, dark places either.
That would be a sight to see!
"killer condensate", it never fails to find it's way down onto the boards/controls. when I seen the orange rusty stains in bottom and on outside, I assumed the board was whacked.
Bypassing is perfectly legitimate. There is no substitute for observing a components operation.
Thanks for checking it out and the support 👍👍
I hope you had these sitting in your archives from last winter .
That correct! I haven't had much worth recording. I have lots of half recorded videos and sometimes this is all you got to use,
When I was servicing electronics signal injection/ substitution works great.
Rick, I had my inspection camera die a month ago. I just saw yours and I just bought it. Thanks for the great lead. Nice save on those old beasts
Thanks Scotland👍👍🤜🤛
As a technician of 24 years yes a jumper pack does work if you have one like what I have where you have an inline 5 amp resettable fuse then it's great cuz you can jump out many things but to make this job quicker and easier for people you should have simply owned across the pressure switch and followed the wiring diagram a call for heat which you call for the induced draft motor as well as a hot surface igniter if it had one or a standing pilot or electronic pilot you could have tested the top of the actual gas valve if it was getting power during a heat call and work backwards it would be a lot faster than gas and on things also everyone seems to always forget safety switches specifically this design that high limits safety sticks out about 3 in inside the metal is also subject to having the water from the drain pan and the coil drip on it so it can get corroded and go bad
Yeah I know what you mean after doing it for 28 years 🙂. Both of these furnaces are brain dead simple repairs, but most residential furnace repairs are, no surprise there. To be truthful I had absolutely nothing else to show that week and I wanted these videos off my computer. I've always preferred using a multimeter in the voltage position to test safeties and switches because I've been screwed in the past by switches that were capable of showing closed with a ohm meter but when put underneath a load they would open up and that's why I used my volt meter to check the pressure switch, plus you have to isolate a switch when testing in ohms, that takes more time and then your taking a chance of damaging the switch terminals, Also I would never use a 5 amp breaker because you've just over loaded most 24v circuit boards and the transformer most of them are usually 40va and (max of 1.66 amps) and fused at 3 amps which is the size breaker I used on my jumper but I haven't used that for I don't know how many years. Thanks for checking out the video 👍👍
Your description and troubleshooting are excellent examples of good diagnostic procedures for young guys just coming into the trade.
When you said you were in junior high in 1993 you made me feel old.
What the heck, how old are you? I'm the old guy now lol
@@HVACRSurvival I think I was a junior in 1980. I know it’s not much older. But if you think you’re feeling something in your knees and your back and you might make a little bit of grunting noises when you stand up or pick something up you’re really going to be feeling it in another 13 years.
⁸8⁸⁸the most popular online
Good job Rick, I learned on an analog meter and jumper wires when I started, the younger generation doesn't realize how nice the new techs have it. Good work there DJ Rick.
Back then it was a nicer world it seemed. Slower paced. The cost of living was lower. Now technology has advanced and continually makes humans unnecessary, and those humans that are employed are often times doing the work of 5-10 people in comparison to 30-40 years ago. The grass isn't greener on the other side! Your analog meter and jumpers may have helped to keep your sanity.
hang on while my VTVOM and other vacuum tube gear warms up. 🙃
Okay, pronoun.
@@johnwalker890 How's that pension? Another extinct entity for us young pronouns. And by the way, men can't get pregnant.
Just fine.
I’m technician from Baton Rouge, Louisiana,I see your point
Thanks !
Back in the dark ages, I found a bird jammed in the inducer blower wheel, had been there a few days. It was a real treat. Nice vids.
I use to find that all the time, even in 90 plus furnaces with 2" pvc pipe.
I remember those digital Honeywell t-stats. My parents house had one untill they had to replace the furnace, it had heat/cool switch and I think I a fan switch. One of the buildings I work also have a version that is used on an ancient multizone damper system to control the roof top air handlers, those too have a heat/cool/auto/off and fan on/auto switch on the bottom.
'93 doesn't seem that old to me. When I first started they were still using vacuum tubes in industrial/commercial flame safeguard controls. I can still remember the tube numbers for the old Fireyes.
🤣🤣👍👍
My HVAC/R instructor gave me a bunch of Amperite time delay tubes and the pilot relay that went with them. (In his words, "you're the one person I know who'd appreciate these", and he wasn't wrong. Around that same time I found a Simpson 260 hiding in the lab. After some new batteries, I gave it the first use it had likely seen in decades.)
Those Amperite time delay tubes were used in draft controllers to prevent nuisance shutdowns due to momentary low draft conditions. I remember carrying the Simpson 260 but you also had to carry a Honeywell micro amp meter to read their flame signal. The Simpson was good for the Fireye's VDC readings though. Don't get me started on the antiquated ways that we performed combustion tests.
I used to do combustion tests with a bachrack where you tilt the red cylinder back and forth to find out your CO level and smoke test.
@@HVACRSurvival Those really gave your arm a workout setting up a full modulating burner. Especially dual fuel.
Circuit boards, electronic ignition, jet engine burners, WTH??? Ah, the ole Honeywell T87, the round one. I feel better now. Thanks. Never got to work on one of those fancy furnaces. Now I feel old...
Son you're a baby 🍼 but you're very good technician. I'm probably more than three times your age. But you're still one of the best. The only thing I'd really like to see you do is wear rubber gloves when you handle your new electronic boards. I designed and built electronic boards for years. And I know that the least bit of static can knock out parts. Or weaken parts. This will cause you to have to make more recalls. But that could make you more money. Just a suggestion from years of experience. You're super good technician. Keep up the super work.
Thanks Beryl! I always touch the grounded frame of the furnace first before touching the edges of the pc board. I know you're correct, luckily these boards are very basic with no MOSFETs or other super sensitive circuits.
much of the parts and boards have protection built in now days and you'd have to try hard to break them via static discharge. it's nothing like the early field effect transistors and IC's where they'd nuke themselves if you looked at them wrong from twenty feet across the room!
but, that's no excuse to be sloppy and not use proper antistatic work methods at all times.
In that first furnace, I'm a little surprised that the ignition control box doesn't control the inducer.
I still see those Chronotherm III 'stats pretty often, and very occasionally I'll see the older generation with an analog clock and synchronous motor...still working just fine.
I bought that Depstech camera after seeing it in one of your previous videos. I've been really happy with it so far. It replaced a Harbor Freight special that drowned. For extra fun, you can plug the Depstech's camera into a computer's USB port. It's nothing more than a USB video class camera, although I haven't yet figured out how to enable the side facing camera.
Wow a blast from the past ... Good info and I bought that inspection camera off your site ... Thx for sharing my good friend ... Hey to Chronic cause we all love her ...
Glad you enjoyed it, I just told her!
The first version of that thermostat had the switches.
Great video as always Rick.Thank you for all the effort you put into these videos they never disappoint.
Thanks Matthew🤜🤛👍👍
Those T-stats could be used with a Sub-base ....that had Heat - Pump .... but Standard didnt need a sub base :D
Great video, Rick ! Very interesting
Hell yeah! Great job Rick 👏
Thanks Steve, it's not doing very well from what I'm reading but I didn't figure it would in the middle of summer😁🤦🏻
Another great video!
Thanks George!
Where are you where you are using heat right now 😂 or is this an old saved video? Anyway I like the residential videos cause that’s what I do for a living 😃 wow an old chronotherm stat jeez brings me back and I’m only 16 years into this trade, I still see em out there tho
Cracked solder connections due to age. If it were my furnace, I'd break out the soldering iron and re-solder all of the spades and relay connections. However a new board is the way to go so you don't end up with a call back.
Never mind, didn't see the corrosion til you got the board out.
Thanks Scott!
I was guessing it was a bad relay, though it could have been the corrosion. In any case a DIY fix would have been to replace one or both relays, and if necessary add a jumper over any corroded traces. However, that is a DIY fix, not one I'd sell to someone.
Boa Noite todas tem o mesmo modelo de placas? Aqui no Brasil nunca centrais que tem a parte de aquecimento por gás, corre algum risco de fazer brasagem? Parabéns
If the translation is correct, you’re asking if there’s any risk in brazing I’m assuming you’re referring to brazing refrigerant lines while you have a gas appliance underneath of it? If that is the question then no, there’s no risk because the gas is sealed in either copper or metal piping.
Ive wired in a relay for the inducer to get someone going till can get a board....1993. My senior year....Go mustangs lol
I have done that to 😁👍👍. I think my ex-father in law said it's still working 10 years later😁
Boa tarde legal que vc responde pra gente. Aqui no Brasil nunca vi este sistema em central. So em split. As placas deste equipamento e padrão? Todas sao iguais ou muda de modelo?
Most of the parts are dependent on each model.
That thermostat Doesn't have switchable heat/cool more than likely was meant for a damper zone system as i remember possibly
R to G air comes on? Or I miss understand that 😂 just kidding love your videos and keep going
On old T87 thermostats Y terminal would be in contact with the G terminal. It would back-feed through the subbase.
I guess there is something to learn
@@KninskaKapija What was it?
@@HVACRSurvival we all going to learn something new every day, and like you said in one of the video I watched today, people that going around and talking how they know everything they probably not telling truth
👍👍👍
Don't die on the way down!!🤣🤣
You know me... Keeping it all in context😂😉
What’s going on here? I don’t even want to think about furnaces right now lol I’m going to save this video until early fall lol
Dude, everything I start to record goes to crap. This has been sitting on my computer for about a year and I wanted to delete it so guess what you get to see it 🤣🤣🤣
👍
Who is running heat in July?
Recheck the video description.
Missing the best intro tune???
I've been trying it without it to see what happens
@@HVACRSurvival you're gonna start a revolution!
😂
@@HVACRSurvival May I cast a vote to say I prefer the intros without the music?
More seriously, I don't really care either way, but I would vote for a slight volume reduction in the music. It's much louder than the rest of the audio track.
232 thumps up
93’! I was knee high to a grasshopper…
We all getting old😂👍👍