Makita track saw, the best secret revealed
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- #farmtable #Barnwood #fancy #cncrouter #CNC #cncwoodworking #customsign #woodwork
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I recently purchased the Metabo kt 18 ltx 66 bl. It also has this feature, and is alluded to in the spec sheet but for some reason no advertising addresses it. I think it’s an enormous incentive for purchase, at least here in the States. Now I don’t feel bad about using my track saw on job sites ripping down OSB and other garbage materials. Slap in an $8 blade and get to work. Save the quality blades for cabinets and fine woodwork.
I couldn’t agree more
I forgot to say thank you for the video on this subject. It gave me the idea to even try it. And it sparked a lot of useful conversation on the subject.
Yes, theoretically you can put a 5/8" arbor blade over the spindle, after you turn the inner flange over. However, there are things to consider and compromises as a result. This is not a slam dunk way to go. The Makita spindle is the perfect 5/8" diameter. It's the Makita spindle that fits the 5/8" blades, not so much the two flanges. Issues to be aware of: First, by reversing the inner flange, you will send the new 5/8" blade away from the cutting edge (splinter guard) on your track. Assuming you cut your rubber splinter guard with the original Makita blade that came with the saw (20mm arbor, 56 tooth blade), the 5/8" arbor blade will end up about 1 blade thickness away from the splinter guard. This is due to the design of the inner flange, the 5/8" blade does not sit with the same relationship to the cutting line as the 20mm arbor design. Your cuts will no longer be exactly on the splinter guard - cut line as intended. Another issue that has been mentioned is that in the 20mm arbor configuration, the inner and outer flange connect "grip" perfectly with the blade and the clamping force is matched perfectly between inner and outer flanges. But in the 5/8" configuration, the inner and outer flanges do the opposite. The flanges in the 5/8" configuration are like a male / female situation. The inner flange provides pressure on the blade exactly where the outer flange is NOT providing pressure. This, like others have mentioned, could cause the blade to form a bowl shape. I'm not sure how likely this is to happen as we are talking about a steel blade here, something not easily deformed by hand tightening an arbor bolt. But others say it happens. In summary, yes you can run cheaper 5/8" arbor blades in this saw. My suggestion: If you plan on only running 5/8" arbor blades, then buy a new splinter guard and cut it using your new 5/8" arbor blade and run it that way.
Thanks for the comment, you’re exactly right about the splinter guard
I have four tracks and have replaced the splinter guard on all of them
I purchased the 118 inch splitter guard and cut it down for my smaller tracks, this saves a little cash
So far I have had no issues with blades deforming
One of my main reasons for using the less expensive blades is, I build a lot of table tops out of reclaimed White Oak thresher flooring and often encounter hidden nails
Thanks again for your comment, you’ve brought up a lot of great points
With this part in place of the factory flange, my 5/8” blades line up perfectly with the rubber strip previously cut with the factory Makita blade. It’s a $3 part. Makita 224411-7 Inner Flange 35 5007Nk.
Couldn’t you just also flip the outer flange so it’s flat to flat, not male outer flange to flat?
The diablo blade that you picture has a removable tab that makes it a 13/16 arbor (to make a diamond punch out). Does this not work well w/ the makita track saw? I've been a bit leery of trying this...
European versions of the Makita track saw (both cordless and corded) have 20/30 mm flange.
Спасибо! Я несколько недель назад тоже это обноружил
You genius you!!!!
Did yours come with a blade when you bought it ?
Yes
Swop it out now for the Freud 1.7 mm so it dont bend!!
The rear handle saw does the same thing
Here’s a legit solution to using 5/8” arbor blades on Makita track saws. No need to change splitter guards.
- Purchase the Inner Flange 224411-7 direct from Makita. (This is the inner flange off a Makita 5007N circular saw.)
- The offset between blade and splitter guard with the 5/8 flange remains within a couple of thousandths the same as when using the 20 mm inner flange.
wow, great tip. I'll try it. Thanks!
Hi, thanks for your awesome tip, is the blade and track alignment still the same or do you have to change the plastic strip in your track due to a different blade adjustment?
What different is the rubber splinter strip, you can see the blade doesn’t exactly match that anymore but it can be changed out for a new one
@@MartinWoodworks If you to switch out the rubber guide strip every time you change from 20mm to 5/8” blade that negates any cost savings & changing strip & recutting it accurately from end to end is fussy with the Makita. I find I have to use 2 linked tracks & leap frog them to get an accurate cut end to end on guide strip because the base locates in the track on 2 raised tabs or lands set in from ends allowing a mm of play side to side when one tab is beyond end of channel. Festool doesn’t have those lands on baseplate so it’s not an issue with them.
@@Don-cs7fe I agree, but I exclusively use one arbor size
And I totally understand what you’re saying about linking the tracks to get accurate cuts on the splitter strip, it also helps to make sure The adjustment knobs that tighten the saw to the track are adjusted properly when cutting the splinter strip
Sorry sent before done. Track saw a precision instrument . Got much better blade for about $26 on sale instead of $11 for 6.5 24 T. No comparison. Use an 8 ft rip of plywood and your skilsaw with cheap blade to break down stuff that a track saw might be overkill for. Save the precision tool for cuts it does best with a good blade
This seems to me to be one of those occasions when you know the price of everything and the value of nothing!
You buy a top end saw then change all the splinter guards, in order to use a reversed blade, in order to use cheaper blades! 🤦♂️
Your welcome to your opinion even if it is wrong,
I am a full time woodworker and with my skill level I’m able to get glue joint results with this setup
Don’t worry, if you keep practicing you’ll get better
Cheers
Oh thank you for this great tip
I have a Makita circular saw and a Makita track saw. I measured the thickness of the inner flange from both. The they are both .1970 inches thick. So if you use the inner flange from the circular saw, there should be no problem using a 5/8 arbor 6 1/2 inch blade on the track saw. This is what I intend to do. I wouldn't recommend flipping the track saw flange around. If you do, you will offset the blade to the right .038 inches. Plus, the reversed flange is pushing against the motor arbor with a shoulder that is only about 2 mm thick. So if that shoulder is not perfectly flat it might cause the blade to wobble slightly. After all, that shoulder is only meant to adapt the 5/8 arbor to the 20 mm hole in the saw. The proper circular saw flange is mentioned in a previous comment.
🤯
This isnt a secret… you can read this in the instruction manual. But thanks for your Video, less People read this manuals 😁
What’s an instruction manual? 😁
No information about this in the owner’s manual. I just read it cover to cover. All the manual says is to use the side of the inner flange that fits your blade perfectly. It doesn’t provide any info on the specific size arbor holes the saw is compatible with.
Pls, turn your volume up.
-Thankx
Ha, i been using the 5/8 blades since i bought this saw, here in kansas, is interesting that i can use the 20 mm blades too. Thanks for video!
Thanks for the comment!
awesome
Dang. I just got a Freud Diablo (and took off the packaging) thinking it would work with my corded Makita track saw. I had no idea the Makita arbor was not 5/8".
Now, I find I have to buy a different flange? Darn. Oh well, I guess I will suck it up and get the part recommended here: Makita 224411-7 Inner Flange 35 5007Nk.
$3-5, yes. But the shipping will be $8 probably. Ouch. Anyone know if that part is available from Lowess or Home Depot?
I wonder if the 45 degree cuts are off now even with a new splinter guard, since the rotation provides a further pushout and no longer keeps the blade in line with the splinter guard as it does in the original configuration. something to test. A great tip none the less for straight cuts.
Is this the same of the Corded makita?
This is a great tip!
Buying a new splinter guard over $80 blades
I’m in
It is indeed the same
I try this and it works great, now I use only inexpensive Diablo blades for breaking sheet goods
Hi, great video, one question, can you fit a 7¼ 185mm blade in the Makita plunge saw? greetings
How does the cut compare with makita blade? I like the cut my makita blade leaves behind.
The cut is really good with a comparable quality blade
So it is exactly symmetrical about the arbor?
Its the same with Evolution miter saw, just flip the "flange" from 5/8 to 1 " and vice versa.
Most of my makita saws have flange with bushings on both sides. one 30mm other is 5/8". Same thing I found on my Dewalt table saw. We have 30mm as most standart size blade arbor, but most of the tools have 5/8" spindle.
Makita anh Diablo👍💪
how'd you get your saw to lock so you can access the Arbour nut?
Great tip, that just tipped the scales for me to invest in the Makita line.
I am in the market for a cordless track saw, I canʻt decide between Festool or Makita (All my cordless tools are Makita or Metabo cordless nailers). I am not sure if this tip will come in to play, but it does look like a viable tip.
Hi, building contractor. Bought my 56T blade for plunge saw for $37.62. Haven’t used it yet because original blade is still good. When I bought blade there was a $25 off $100 purchase offer all over. Bought a few needed items, their blades are comparable to the red ones and at 25% off maybe cheaper.
My new Makita arrives tomorrow so thanks for the tip m
You’re very welcome, the track saw is the one tool I didn’t realize I needed so much until I had it
I’m gonna try to put together another video with some tips but the main tip is you can use spray silicone or paste wax on the track to make the saw glide through the cuts
GREAT ...but he does not show it cutting and the results.............so it's an untested secret and therefore of unknown value.
Feel free to check out pictures on any of my other social media, any tabletop you see will be joined using the lesser expensive blades and the track saw, I do not own a jointer
ktmcnc.com
Thanks for your comment
You guys might be getting by with cutting plywood or softwood when reversing inner flange but it’s a no go with cross cutting cherry. I swapped out inner flange with flange from my 6-1/2” Makita circular saw and no issue. Though 2 passes seems better with 1”cherry. Amazing how that little bit of pressure redistribution changes so dramatically.
Haha nice observation 👌
Waaaaa daaaa!!!
Checking mine tomorrow
Isn't the blade now offset by the thickness of that ring. The whole track saw system depends on precise inside position of blade.
Doing this will offset the blade one blade thickness to the outside, however to correct this all you have to do is replace the zero clearance strip on the bottom of the track
Thanks for the comment
@@MartinWoodworks so, install blade this way then cut the strip? is that correct. (for some reason I need to ask this)
@@thetoolmat8632 yes sir
Oh my god !! i hope it work on the older wired one
Omg 😱 thanks so much 🙌🏼
20mm isnt proprietary. the US is just about the only country that doesn't use it.
I understand that, but in the US almost every blade from 6.5”(165mm) to 10”(254mm) has an arbor diameter of 5/8”(15.875mm)
You have to go to a specialty shop to get a blade with a 20 mm arbor
Sometimes that’s just not possible
Thanks for the comment
@@MartinWoodworks Sounds like there's a need for some aftermarket imperial flanges.
Why would you put a cheap "Big Box Storeblade" on a quality saw ?? 🙄
Because a $12 Freud blade is still a quality blade
I work with a lot of 8/4 reclaimed white oak that sometime has hidden treasures.
Why ruin a $50 blade when a $12 dollar blade is doing the job
I routinely use my track saws for construction work/remodeling. Why would I rip roof sheeting with a $50 blade when a $6 blade does a great job?
great tip ,ill look at mine right now !
I have the SP6000J saw and I tried a Diablo 60 tooth and blade. but the blade ended up cutting into the track. I think it was because the cheaper blade have more flex.
It’s blade deflection, it happens when it builds heat
Try taking a few shallow cuts to get through thicker material
Also if you replace the rubber splinter strip on the bottom do you want notice where you cut into the track
Hope this helps
Also if you’re ripping hardwood, try a 24 tooth blade, save that 60 tooth for doing fine plywood cuts
Use this flange instead and 5/8” blades will sit flush with the rubber strip just like the 20mm original. Makita 224411-7 Inner Flange 35 5007Nk
Thanks for sharing 👍
I assume this also throws the depth scale for the plunge action right out the window? Correct me if I'm wrong...
Kind of wrong. 165mm is 6.496” or 0.1mm smaller than a 6-1/2” blade.
@@joeshort2460 Ok, I guess you're right, kinda. In the video he says that the saw blade with the 20mm hole is 165mm in diameter. But then he "correct" himself and say 160mm. If that is true, my point stands, BUT a fact check reveals that the original blade is actually 165mm. Be that as it may, but wouldn't all our lives be easier if the whole world would be "on the same track" when dimensions are concerned..?!!
Oh and something I learned by buying a Festool blade. Their blades are 160 mm not 165 mm in diameter. And using a Festool blade eliminates the scoring function. and the plunge scale is off
Genius thank you sir
You rock!
The worst secret? Not having a Blade Left Design for righties to use 😞.
I tried this but found the mismatched mating surfaces between the inner and outer flanges caused the blade to actually bow. I discovered this when my saw was not cutting square after installing the blade. I was able to pick up an inner flange for the Makita 6-1/2" cordless saw that works as a replacement. It works perfectly with the standard blades now. The only minor issue is that the blade sits slightly away from the splinter guard. But when I am making cuts in questionable wood I would much rather risk a $10 blade than one of my good track saw blades.
Thanks for the comment
I have experienced blade bowing with the Makita 20 mm arbor blades as well when trying to cut thick hardwood.
Sometimes when cutting it releases stress in the wood and pinches the blade, the excess friction generates a lot of heat causing the blade to bow
If I’m cutting up the slab I usually take several passes to get to the full depth
I accidentally cut into one of my tracks because of this
if you’re happy with your current set up you can always replace the zero clearance strip on the bottom of your track
Buy the 118 inch version and cut to length, it’s a much better deal than buying the exact fit for shorter tracks
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JI1ZF2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
KTMCNC Martin Woodworks What you are referring to is blade deflection. Yes I have seen that with the stock blade when attempting to cut thicker hardwoods. After all Makita labels the blade for plywood and MDF so I can't fault them for that. You can use the thicker blade from the corded plunge saw or similar to prevent blade deflection. What I am referring to is bowing or cupping of the blade. Unless Makita has changed the design of the inner flange this is what happens. When oriented for the 20mm arbor blade the outer edges of the inner and outer flange mate up perfectly against each other and therefore put pressure on the blade directly opposite of each other. When you flip over the inner flange, it is turned down along the outer edge. Making almost a perfect fit into the cupped surface of the outer flange. When you tighten up the flanges against the sides of the blade, the bearing surfaces of the outer flange are on a larger diameter than the bearing surface of the inner flange causing the blade to bow inward into a bowl shape. The inner flange from the Makita 6-1/2" circular saw is nearly identical to the one that comes with the plunge saw, only with the inner lip for the 20mm blades removed. It mates up perfectly to the outer flange and keeps the blade flat when tightened.
I am perfectly happy with my current setup. I mostly use the stock blade for cutting up sheet goods where it performs quite well. I may use one of the cheaper blades if I am cutting up some cdx or the like. Usually I am cutting up some less desirable wood when using the cheaper blades so I am not worried as much about splinters. Other uses are to straight line cut rough hardwoods. Again, not so worried about splinters as this is the first step in processing the boards. Using a 24 tooth blade I have easily straight edged 8/4 hard Maple and white oak in a single pass. If you are ripping boards, learn to throw some shims alongside your track and slip them into the kerf every so often as you are cutting this will help prevent the wood from binding on your blade. I have straight edged 12' boards and can cut ~20' with the tracks and joiners I have on hand.
Regarding the splinter strip, thanks but I am well aware of the 118" option. I have five tracks from the 39" to the 118" and have been buying the 118" length splinter strip to keep on hand as it is more economical that way. If you want to save a few bucks or get by until you can get a replacement, the splinter strip can be removed and reinstalled farther out by leaving a gap between the rubber and the alignment ledge. You will likely need to replace the double sided tape. I have done this with cheap 3m clear 2-sided tape which works jut fine. Just trim it like you would a new one and you are good to go.
I’ll have to pull my blade washers off and take a look and see if mine are different. I am almost exclusively using my saw to rip hardwood and lately it’s been a lot of reclaimed White Oak
I rarely have a reason to cut plywood, but if I do I usually just use the CNC to cut out my parts and pieces
Thanks for all your input
So If I’m doing border cuts on hardwood. I should reverse the washer in order to use a regular Diablo blade ?
@@Eyehearttravels For my saw I had to replace the inner washer with one from the standard Makita 6-1/2 cordless saw. Makita may have changed this as my saw is now ~3yrs old. With the original inner flange/washer I found it did not mate well with the outer washer. When tightening the blade the two outer flange/washer surfaces did not mate causing the blade to bow into a bowl shape. Take the two flange/washers off your saw and confirm the outer edges mate up when the inner one is flipped. if not, you will likely see the same issue.
I did discover that too, however, the blade will be offset 1/2 mm, the blade is also thinner, so, not a big deal.
Awesome! Good to know because I own both a Makita and Festool track saws. Thank you.
Which one do you like better?
@@tylerjenkins6088 Let’s just say I had the Festool first but used the Makita a whole lot more than I ever used the Festool even though I had it way longer. Could be because the Makita is a cordless version too. One good thing is I didn’t have to buy new tracks because they both work on the same track.
Wouldn't that be on the manual?
Maybe, but like most I’ve never opened the manual 😁
@@MartinWoodworks Copy that
Holy moly! I had no idea.