Absolutely brilliant video Chad 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 very informative and extremely very well put together. I’d personally love to see more maintenance videos on your channel. 👍🏻👍🏻 Adam 🇬🇧
My pleasure! Glad this came at just the right time. 😁 I haven't heard of that airbox before. Is it a more common mod for RSV4s? I figure it's probably made of something nicer/more solid than plastic.
@@hiimchad I have a 2018 Tuono Factory. The stage 3 intake uses the RSV4s airbox in the Tuono. Depending on your exhaust you can see gains as high as 15hp. There are two people that I know of that do the airbox mod. You can get one from AF1 Racing or Gabro Racing in Italy. Here is the link to both. With the one from AF1 you also have to buy the open flash tablet to flash the ecu. www.apriliaspecialparts.com/shop/grt-aprilia-racing-parts/kit-airbox-stage3-aprilia-tuonov4-1000-e-1100-2011-2020/# www.af1racing.com/Stage-III-Airbox-Kit-for-17-19-Tuono-V4
@@troypagan7131 oh wow, that filter is massive! So this adds the secondary fuel injectors that the RSV4 has too then? That's awesome! I have a hard time imagining this bike with 15 more hp 😅
Nice vid Chad, when I first bought my Tuono I was also afraid of doing any maintenance myself but once I took the plunge it was not as hard or different than any other bike I've worked on. Many people might think it is and never attempt anything on the Aprilia. For my my air filter I've used a thin double foam tape since it's easily removed and installed the k&n filter. On the airbox (outside) itself I sealed the mating surfaces w heat resistant tape and it works great, no more debris or dust inside. Regarding future upgrades for your machine, I'd definitely reccomend getting a set of forged wheels if you can, it will blow your mind on how different(better) the Tuono will handle/brake/accel. Etc.. Hands down best 💵 invested after proper suspension tuning and good tyres. Keep up the good work and enjoy that V4!!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed! 😁 Also, appreciate the advice on the tape! I did not even think of that. Forged wheels would be awesome! I can't even imagine how much better your bike feels with those. I might have to look into a set in the future, but for now all my money is going into racing my track bike 😂
@@hiimchad yeah! Mine now has 11k km on it and at the 10k service the dealer strangely didn't change it. You can imagine how the old filter looks like 😄 got luck, because I saw that one of the both air intake rubbers was not in place correctly
Great video. I have the same year bike and will be doing this procedure. Did you recheck your air box after this was done to see if any rocks were getting in? I would of also cleaned the breather filter while inside of the air box because they get filled with oil from blow-by from the crank case. Over all great video, you are very thorough with the disassembly and assembly procedures.
@@TRocksGarage777 I ended up replacing the OEM with a DNA filter. I did find a couple pebbles when I took everything apart but not as much as the first time. I did also have the valve service done between sealing the airbox and installing the DNA filter, and I don't think they resealed it, so I would say any of my findings are inconclusive.
Hey Tom, thanks! That has been on my list for a while now... Should be able to get it done sometime within the next two weeks! I'll work it into my schedule. 🙂 Thanks for the request!
@@hiimchad I saw one video on this procedure, but it didn’t seem detailed enough to give me the confidence. It’s talked about a lot on the Aprilia forum, so I think if you can do a good video on it, you would get a ton of views on it for years to come! Thanks in advance Chad!
Hey Super great video. My factory is gonna get the same treatment over winter, just to make sure it's all sealed up. I would rather use mastic sealer, don't think it needs to be high temp tho, it has better stick. On my old bikes I used to tape up the stacks with wide masking tape cos just with paper shoved down bits can still drop in the holes. Thanks for sharing this very useful video👍🏻
Hey Gio! Glad you enjoyed the video, and I appreciate the recommendations for future work. Hope you enjoy working on your bike during the winter, and enjoy your rides in the meantime! 🙂
Hey Jake! Very nice. I thought about replacing the original with a K&N but usually use stock air filters since they tend to catch more than racing filters. That said, I will probably go for the K&N next time I need to do the filter since the stock one seals so poorly.
@@hiimchadright on they do have the street model without the r in the name that has more protection for the street. It's the same model number Al-1010 or Al-1010r for the race filter
I have gaps between airfilter cover and lower side, most furhter parts away from screws on each side. Did you notice same on yours or your cover and lover part were even? Seems like i need to put tape around all the damn airbox. Got sand and some dust inside, cleaned it all and added silicon under the bracket aswell. But i think my main issue isnt the small filter bracket but the gaps around the whole damn airbox.... Seems to correctly seal only near the 8 screws
I made this video a while ago and haven't been back in the airbox since, but don't recall there being gaps aside from the lower bracket that holds the filter in place, which I did seal with silicone. The only alternative I can think of is to run the DNA filter, although I have no firsthand experience with it and generally stay away from aftermarket filters. It appears to be molded to the airbox, eliminate the bracket, and claims to provide a much better seal. I haven't thought about this in a while, but it is something I may do in the future. Here is the link to the product if you're interested: www.af1racing.com/DN_PAP10S09-0R-DNA-High-Performance-Air-Filter-For-V4
@@NaturalBorN44 oh yeah, I remember us chatting about this earlier, my mistake! Depending on how many more miles you think you'll put on the bike before then, it might be better to wait. The air filter and spark plugs are very easy to get to when the valves are being done, so I doubt there would be much of an extra labor charge, if any. Are you planning on a big road trip or riding every weekend before then?
Won’t be riding every weekend or very long road trips at all unfortunately I have something else to ride that’s under construction so I should be good. Changing the plugs aren’t to difficult in my opinion but I never done so on a a v4 but have all tools an ready so I decide.
@@NaturalBorN44 right on, always nice to have the ability and confidence to do it yourself if you choose to! Much respect. Either way, it sounds like you’ll be good. 🙂
Both this Tuono Factory and the Tuono RR I had before were very reliable for me! I just keep up on regular maintenance and she just keeps roaring along! I do have a small oil leak from the spark plug seals on the valve cover gasket, but it’s not too bad so I just clean it each time I do the chain and will address it when it’s time for the valves. It’s an incredible bike! 🙂
Hey Chad, another inspiring vid mate 👍. I was wondering if you may do one on a very basic maintainance item (ie: Oil change)🔧. The reason I ask is, I have done my own oil / filter changes on various cars / bikes etc and never had a drama. However, I was trolling through a few Aprilia forums and noticed there was a few comments about 'cracking the oil pan' due to tightening of the sump plug. With further investigation, you'd think 'bloody idiots' they overtightened the sump plug, but many complaints were about tightening to the recommended Aprilia torque value of 30Nm (which is for a 'dry install - when oil is or has been on the thread you lower that recommendation). Yes, I know especially for this bike to use their special 'crush washer' (its a very particular size etc). Now one would expect, if you went off Aprilia's torque value, and this was your first time, you might think well it says 30Nm (that's the factory recommendation) and some forums have mentioned this and cracked the oil pan when set to that value. I personally, would probably set to about 24Nm (always lower due to oil on thread even if it has been degreased / wiped). Some user's (many are allegedly Aprilia mechanics) just say, 'I just tighten it till its snug' (what a snug value? - just saying). If you have a precise tool ie: torque wrench, then you should have an amount that would be a safe setting. There are forums in which people have set to a lower torque value and still CRACKED the thread housing. I have seen the photo's of the soft casting when it snaps off - not pretty and I certainly don't want to be part of that group 😫. I know this appears very basic but of the reactions I have read, it has made me very worried😯. I was just wondering what your thoughts or advice is on this. My concern is really about the tightening of the sump plug. Sorry for the long post Chad 😁
Hey Brett! Glad you enjoyed! 😁 I could certainly do a video for an oil change, although I just completed one a couple weeks ago so I likely won't be doing it again for at least a few months. I am also aware of the weak oil pan, and as such I have only ever gone about 1/4th-1/2 turn past snug for the drain bolt with a ratchet, since I wasn't sure what a good torque spec would be. I did that with my other Tuono as well, and between both bikes I never had an issue with a leak, weep, or cracked pan, and so far I have completed 5 oil changes between both bikes. Hope that's helpful! I've always been apprehensive to put a torque wrench on it for fear of overtorqueing the drain bolt and joining that group. 😅
@@hiimchad thanks for the input, I will do what i've been doing then. I think that's a pretty universal torque setting (1/4 - 1/2 past snug) 😂😁👍. Thanks again Team Mechanic
Hi Alessandro, it is indeed silicone sealant. The frame for the air filter does not seat it properly against the airbox lower, and can allow small debris and rocks past it. I used the silicone sealant to try to fill the gaps. Hope that helps!
I typically prefer to stick with OEM filters since they do keep more particulates our of the engine and I'm not normally one to pursue much more power than a bike makes stock, but after replacing my filter and learning about the poor bracket design, I will likely opt for a K&N or other aftermarkets filter that replaces the bracket next time it's due for a change.
Can I please ask one thing can a 2016 have the same problems and where can I get the stock air filter? I am getting service codes and I think this may be why. Have a great day! All work but that has been done.
Based on a parts diagram I found online, it does appear the 2016 and 2017 both use this design. You can buy a new filter from AF1Racing.com, although I would recommend going for a DNA air filter which should seal better than the bracket for the stock filter.
@@hiimchad No, but I am hesitating to stay with the 1000 and look for something with electronics, type rsv4 or s1000rr since they were the first to incorporate electronics.I only test 2019 yamaha r1M =)
@@Omar_675_24 The R1M has awesome electronics from what I hear! Many say they are better than the 2020 and older Tuono's and RSV4's. BMW's are supposed to be great as well! Would definitely make the bike easier to manage than your R1. 🙂
@@hiimchad Yes, especially the rsv4 they say that it is a very agile motorcycle although the one that develops the least final power, although for the streets and some punctual tracks I will not care. It attracts me more than the bmw with the 4 in line that asks to always carry it up. So I will surely go for an rsv 2014 2015. Good content chad, it does not seem very easy to get a hand on that tuono xD.The R1M is truly an easy bike to ride with a very progressive motor
@@Omar_675_24 I agree, and love the V4 engine for the same reasons. Thanks for the kind words and support, Clara! Looking forward to hearing which bike you decide on. 🙂
I haven't had the fuel pump out of the tank, but from what I found during a quick search in the Aprilia forum, it appears that it can! Based on some photos I saw, there is a housing that contains it that sits within the tank.
Hi Chad! Thanks for the video post--another good one! I wanted to ask you for your thoughts regarding the Openflash tablet. I noticed you have the SC slip on and am curious if you did any tuning post exhaust installation. I've ordered the Arrow slip on for my V4, and am looking into acquiring this to tune the bike after the slip on is installed (www.af1racing.com/OpenFlash-Tablet-for-Aprilia-RSV4Tuono-1100).
Hey Thuan! Glad you enjoyed! 😁 My Tuono Factory has the Aprilia Race ECU flash. The bike came with the SC pipe and flash already on it. However, the 2017 Tuono RR I owned before my Factory did have an OpenFlash tune with a Graves pipe. It felt great! The previous owner of that bike took care of the install/flash as well, but from what he told me, it's pretty intuitive and simple to use. Based on that, I would recommend it! It's also nice that you can reflash it yourself, so if you ever wanted to go back to stock, you would be able to very easily. With the Tuono V4 or an RSV4, you'll definitely want a tune after installing a slip-on, as the ex-up valve and cat come off with the stock pipe, causing the air/fuel ratio to be out of whack in certain rpm/load conditions. This impacts ride-ability, power delivery, and long-term engine life, so I wouldn't ride around too much without a tune once the Arrow goes on!
@@hiimchad Hey Chad! Thanks for the quick response and feedback, bud! I'll get on ordering the tablet to execute the flash--wanna make sure this V4 is tip-top.
@@hiimchad Hey Chad--hope it's all going well, sir! The Arrow is on the bike, and I gotta say I love it; it just plays beautiful music. I also recently received the Openflash tablet and yesterday uploaded the Stage 2 tuning file. I can't wait to take it out this weekend. I imagine I'm going to have some fun. Keep up the videos, man!
Another life hack is to use thick lithium grease (I'm using CRC Super Adhesive Grease). This came from the mechanic that did the valve check/adjustment last fall. He told there was quite a lot of dust in the air box (I think that was from one trip particularly when I had to ride in a dust cloud behind a car). Yesterday when I changed the filter the air box was clean. I wiped out most of the old grease and added new: i.imgur.com/LTiz57Z.jpg
@@hiimchad Yes, the dirt sticks to the grease, not that there was much dirt because the grease also blocks the air flow = less dirt. I did not remove the bracket to see if he put it there too (because the box was clean, if it works don't fix it 😀), possibly but cannot confirm. Maybe I'll check next time.
I admire your attention to detail. Outstanding.
Thank you! I always feel like I go to in-depth, so really appreciate that. 🙂
Great work Chad. As an experienced old mechanic you nailed this. Love to hear how the repealed air box works over time.
Thanks Stephen! Glad you found this helpful 🙂
This is my favorite video you made so far! My Stage 3 just showed up and I’ll be doing install tomorrow
Glad you found it useful! How did the install go? 🙂
Perfect vid! Thank you very much! Greetings from Germany ✌🏼
Excellent video, very helpful. Thank you for posting!
My pleasure! Thanks for your comment! 🙂
Thanks 4 the Video ! Now i can Remove the Tank without Problems
Glad it was helpful! 🙂
Absolutely brilliant video Chad 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 very informative and extremely very well put together. I’d personally love to see more maintenance videos on your channel. 👍🏻👍🏻
Adam 🇬🇧
Thanks Adam! Really appreciate the kind words! 😁
Is there a particular maintenance item you'd like to see covered?
I’ll have to check that on my bike. Seems like a very poor design though. Thanks Chad.
excellent video mate. really clear and methodical. thank you.
My pleasure! Glad you appreciated it :)
another great and informative video, have a great weekend
Glad you enjoyed, Rod! Thank you, and have a great weekend as well! 🙂
Damn it I love you!!! Just bought the Gabro Racing stage 3 air box and I needed this. Thanks bud!
My pleasure! Glad this came at just the right time. 😁 I haven't heard of that airbox before. Is it a more common mod for RSV4s? I figure it's probably made of something nicer/more solid than plastic.
@@hiimchad I have a 2018 Tuono Factory. The stage 3 intake uses the RSV4s airbox in the Tuono. Depending on your exhaust you can see gains as high as 15hp. There are two people that I know of that do the airbox mod. You can get one from AF1 Racing or Gabro Racing in Italy. Here is the link to both. With the one from AF1 you also have to buy the open flash tablet to flash the ecu.
www.apriliaspecialparts.com/shop/grt-aprilia-racing-parts/kit-airbox-stage3-aprilia-tuonov4-1000-e-1100-2011-2020/#
www.af1racing.com/Stage-III-Airbox-Kit-for-17-19-Tuono-V4
@@troypagan7131 oh wow, that filter is massive! So this adds the secondary fuel injectors that the RSV4 has too then? That's awesome! I have a hard time imagining this bike with 15 more hp 😅
Absolutely brilliant video.
Thanks Humaam! Glad you enjoyed. 🙂 If I may ask, was there anything specific about it that you really liked?
@@hiimchad Attention to detail.
List of tools.
@@HumaamRahman glad you appreciated that! I like to be thorough, and was a bit concerned I went overboard with this one.
Nice vid Chad, when I first bought my Tuono I was also afraid of doing any maintenance myself but once I took the plunge it was not as hard or different than any other bike I've worked on. Many people might think it is and never attempt anything on the Aprilia.
For my my air filter I've used a thin double foam tape since it's easily removed and installed the k&n filter. On the airbox (outside) itself I sealed the mating surfaces w heat resistant tape and it works great, no more debris or dust inside.
Regarding future upgrades for your machine, I'd definitely reccomend getting a set of forged wheels if you can, it will blow your mind on how different(better) the Tuono will handle/brake/accel. Etc.. Hands down best 💵 invested after proper suspension tuning and good tyres. Keep up the good work and enjoy that V4!!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed! 😁 Also, appreciate the advice on the tape! I did not even think of that.
Forged wheels would be awesome! I can't even imagine how much better your bike feels with those. I might have to look into a set in the future, but for now all my money is going into racing my track bike 😂
Thank you for this great video! It helped me so much 🔥👍
Happy it helped and appreciate your feedback! 🙂 Were you changing your air filter for the first time?
@@hiimchad yeah! Mine now has 11k km on it and at the 10k service the dealer strangely didn't change it. You can imagine how the old filter looks like 😄 got luck, because I saw that one of the both air intake rubbers was not in place correctly
@@ToTheMoon7000 good catch! For that reason I tend to work on my bikes myself. Glad you’re taking care of it though and great work! 💪
Great video. I have the same year bike and will be doing this procedure. Did you recheck your air box after this was done to see if any rocks were getting in? I would of also cleaned the breather filter while inside of the air box because they get filled with oil from blow-by from the crank case. Over all great video, you are very thorough with the disassembly and assembly procedures.
@@TRocksGarage777 I ended up replacing the OEM with a DNA filter. I did find a couple pebbles when I took everything apart but not as much as the first time. I did also have the valve service done between sealing the airbox and installing the DNA filter, and I don't think they resealed it, so I would say any of my findings are inconclusive.
Great video Chad, I hope you’ll consider making a video on how to remove the EVAP canister!
Hey Tom, thanks! That has been on my list for a while now... Should be able to get it done sometime within the next two weeks! I'll work it into my schedule. 🙂 Thanks for the request!
@@hiimchad I saw one video on this procedure, but it didn’t seem detailed enough to give me the confidence. It’s talked about a lot on the Aprilia forum, so I think if you can do a good video on it, you would get a ton of views on it for years to come! Thanks in advance Chad!
@@PezRacer my pleasure Tom! I’ll do my best to make it as detailed as possible, but still somewhat concise. 🙂
Great video nicely done sir 👍🏍
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed 🙂
Hey Super great video. My factory is gonna get the same treatment over winter, just to make sure it's all sealed up. I would rather use mastic sealer, don't think it needs to be high temp tho, it has better stick. On my old bikes I used to tape up the stacks with wide masking tape cos just with paper shoved down bits can still drop in the holes. Thanks for sharing this very useful video👍🏻
Hey Gio! Glad you enjoyed the video, and I appreciate the recommendations for future work. Hope you enjoy working on your bike during the winter, and enjoy your rides in the meantime! 🙂
@@hiimchad thank you Aprilia bro. Ride safe and enjoy👍🏻
Nice 👍 😎
Thanks 😎
Hi Chad I just changed mine with the k&n airfilter it replaces the braket and gets rid of the sealing issue as well as provides a larger filter
Hey Jake! Very nice. I thought about replacing the original with a K&N but usually use stock air filters since they tend to catch more than racing filters. That said, I will probably go for the K&N next time I need to do the filter since the stock one seals so poorly.
@@hiimchadright on they do have the street model without the r in the name that has more protection for the street. It's the same model number Al-1010 or Al-1010r for the race filter
@@jakecole3646 I’ll look into it, thanks!
I have gaps between airfilter cover and lower side, most furhter parts away from screws on each side. Did you notice same on yours or your cover and lover part were even? Seems like i need to put tape around all the damn airbox. Got sand and some dust inside, cleaned it all and added silicon under the bracket aswell. But i think my main issue isnt the small filter bracket but the gaps around the whole damn airbox.... Seems to correctly seal only near the 8 screws
I made this video a while ago and haven't been back in the airbox since, but don't recall there being gaps aside from the lower bracket that holds the filter in place, which I did seal with silicone. The only alternative I can think of is to run the DNA filter, although I have no firsthand experience with it and generally stay away from aftermarket filters. It appears to be molded to the airbox, eliminate the bracket, and claims to provide a much better seal. I haven't thought about this in a while, but it is something I may do in the future. Here is the link to the product if you're interested: www.af1racing.com/DN_PAP10S09-0R-DNA-High-Performance-Air-Filter-For-V4
I definitely need to do this plus spark plugs sooner rather than later going with a DNA filter
The filter isn't too difficult, although I'm not sure about changing the spark plugs on the front bank. How many miles are on your Tuono?
I have 12.5k I need major service schedule there’s only one dealer near me an they can’t take my job until the slower season
@@NaturalBorN44 oh yeah, I remember us chatting about this earlier, my mistake! Depending on how many more miles you think you'll put on the bike before then, it might be better to wait. The air filter and spark plugs are very easy to get to when the valves are being done, so I doubt there would be much of an extra labor charge, if any. Are you planning on a big road trip or riding every weekend before then?
Won’t be riding every weekend or very long road trips at all unfortunately I have something else to ride that’s under construction so I should be good. Changing the plugs aren’t to difficult in my opinion but I never done so on a a v4 but have all tools an ready so I decide.
@@NaturalBorN44 right on, always nice to have the ability and confidence to do it yourself if you choose to! Much respect. Either way, it sounds like you’ll be good. 🙂
Hey man, Picking up a 18 tuono factory looks identical to yours. so excited. Where did you get the tank grip for knees?
Hey Noah, congrats! These are them: stompgrip.com/products/street-bike-kit-volcano-0075?rq=ws_street-bike~mk_aprilia~md_tuono-v4-factory-1100~yr_2017
Hey Chad, Tuono V4, factory is not, is on the top of my list for my next bike. How is reliability? Any issues come up requiring dealership work?
Both this Tuono Factory and the Tuono RR I had before were very reliable for me! I just keep up on regular maintenance and she just keeps roaring along! I do have a small oil leak from the spark plug seals on the valve cover gasket, but it’s not too bad so I just clean it each time I do the chain and will address it when it’s time for the valves. It’s an incredible bike! 🙂
I’m selling one
Hey Chad, another inspiring vid mate 👍. I was wondering if you may do one on a very basic maintainance item (ie: Oil change)🔧. The reason I ask is, I have done my own oil / filter changes on various cars / bikes etc and never had a drama. However, I was trolling through a few Aprilia forums and noticed there was a few comments about 'cracking the oil pan' due to tightening of the sump plug. With further investigation, you'd think 'bloody idiots' they overtightened the sump plug, but many complaints were about tightening to the recommended Aprilia torque value of 30Nm (which is for a 'dry install - when oil is or has been on the thread you lower that recommendation). Yes, I know especially for this bike to use their special 'crush washer' (its a very particular size etc). Now one would expect, if you went off Aprilia's torque value, and this was your first time, you might think well it says 30Nm (that's the factory recommendation) and some forums have mentioned this and cracked the oil pan when set to that value. I personally, would probably set to about 24Nm (always lower due to oil on thread even if it has been degreased / wiped). Some user's (many are allegedly Aprilia mechanics) just say, 'I just tighten it till its snug' (what a snug value? - just saying). If you have a precise tool ie: torque wrench, then you should have an amount that would be a safe setting. There are forums in which people have set to a lower torque value and still CRACKED the thread housing. I have seen the photo's of the soft casting when it snaps off - not pretty and I certainly don't want to be part of that group 😫. I know this appears very basic but of the reactions I have read, it has made me very worried😯. I was just wondering what your thoughts or advice is on this. My concern is really about the tightening of the sump plug. Sorry for the long post Chad 😁
Hey Brett! Glad you enjoyed! 😁
I could certainly do a video for an oil change, although I just completed one a couple weeks ago so I likely won't be doing it again for at least a few months.
I am also aware of the weak oil pan, and as such I have only ever gone about 1/4th-1/2 turn past snug for the drain bolt with a ratchet, since I wasn't sure what a good torque spec would be. I did that with my other Tuono as well, and between both bikes I never had an issue with a leak, weep, or cracked pan, and so far I have completed 5 oil changes between both bikes.
Hope that's helpful! I've always been apprehensive to put a torque wrench on it for fear of overtorqueing the drain bolt and joining that group. 😅
@@hiimchad thanks for the input, I will do what i've been doing then. I think that's a pretty universal torque setting (1/4 - 1/2 past snug) 😂😁👍. Thanks again Team Mechanic
@@brettw8664 It's about as universal as you can get 😂 the pleasure is all mine, Brett! Always happy to help. Have a great weekend! 🙂
When I do mine I usually go till I feel the crush washer get crushed then just snug. I have not had a leak yet and it does not take that much force
Excuse me....
What product did you put on the air box...?
Looks like silicone....
And the reason...?
Thank you
Hi Alessandro, it is indeed silicone sealant. The frame for the air filter does not seat it properly against the airbox lower, and can allow small debris and rocks past it. I used the silicone sealant to try to fill the gaps. Hope that helps!
I just bought 21 tuono v4 base .going to install K&N air filter. why you don't install K&N filter on your bike?
I typically prefer to stick with OEM filters since they do keep more particulates our of the engine and I'm not normally one to pursue much more power than a bike makes stock, but after replacing my filter and learning about the poor bracket design, I will likely opt for a K&N or other aftermarkets filter that replaces the bracket next time it's due for a change.
Hi Chad! Did you empty the gas tank completely? Thanks
Hi Aleks! It was not completely empty, but it was low. Any fuel that was there was in the low section of the tank that runs under the seat.
Can I please ask one thing can a 2016 have the same problems and where can I get the stock air filter? I am getting service codes and I think this may be why. Have a great day! All work but that has been done.
Based on a parts diagram I found online, it does appear the 2016 and 2017 both use this design. You can buy a new filter from AF1Racing.com, although I would recommend going for a DNA air filter which should seal better than the bracket for the stock filter.
Is the cover that goes over the fuel tank just plastic like a fairing? Can’t tell if it’s metal or not
It's not a cover, the tank is a single piece of plastic that has been painted.
Chad,You test the BMW s1000rr?
Hi Clara! I have not before, but would love to if I could get my hands on one. Maybe one day! Have you had a chance to ride one?
Thanks for watching 😁
@@hiimchad No, but I am hesitating to stay with the 1000 and look for something with electronics, type rsv4 or s1000rr since they were the first to incorporate electronics.I only test 2019 yamaha r1M =)
@@Omar_675_24 The R1M has awesome electronics from what I hear! Many say they are better than the 2020 and older Tuono's and RSV4's. BMW's are supposed to be great as well! Would definitely make the bike easier to manage than your R1. 🙂
@@hiimchad Yes, especially the rsv4 they say that it is a very agile motorcycle although the one that develops the least final power, although for the streets and some punctual tracks I will not care. It attracts me more than the bmw with the 4 in line that asks to always carry it up. So I will surely go for an rsv 2014 2015. Good content chad, it does not seem very easy to get a hand on that tuono xD.The R1M is truly an easy bike to ride with a very progressive motor
@@Omar_675_24 I agree, and love the V4 engine for the same reasons. Thanks for the kind words and support, Clara! Looking forward to hearing which bike you decide on. 🙂
Is there a fuel filter in the tank that can be replaced?
I haven't had the fuel pump out of the tank, but from what I found during a quick search in the Aprilia forum, it appears that it can! Based on some photos I saw, there is a housing that contains it that sits within the tank.
Good video dude, lighting sucked but otherwise really good
Thanks! This is an oldie so was definitely focused on information quality more than production quality, but appreciate the feedback 🙂✌️
Hi Chad! Thanks for the video post--another good one! I wanted to ask you for your thoughts regarding the Openflash tablet. I noticed you have the SC slip on and am curious if you did any tuning post exhaust installation. I've ordered the Arrow slip on for my V4, and am looking into acquiring this to tune the bike after the slip on is installed (www.af1racing.com/OpenFlash-Tablet-for-Aprilia-RSV4Tuono-1100).
Hey Thuan! Glad you enjoyed! 😁
My Tuono Factory has the Aprilia Race ECU flash. The bike came with the SC pipe and flash already on it. However, the 2017 Tuono RR I owned before my Factory did have an OpenFlash tune with a Graves pipe. It felt great! The previous owner of that bike took care of the install/flash as well, but from what he told me, it's pretty intuitive and simple to use. Based on that, I would recommend it! It's also nice that you can reflash it yourself, so if you ever wanted to go back to stock, you would be able to very easily. With the Tuono V4 or an RSV4, you'll definitely want a tune after installing a slip-on, as the ex-up valve and cat come off with the stock pipe, causing the air/fuel ratio to be out of whack in certain rpm/load conditions. This impacts ride-ability, power delivery, and long-term engine life, so I wouldn't ride around too much without a tune once the Arrow goes on!
@@hiimchad Hey Chad! Thanks for the quick response and feedback, bud! I'll get on ordering the tablet to execute the flash--wanna make sure this V4 is tip-top.
@@ThuanTran-gd7hx Always happy to help! Let me know how it goes, and what you think about the Arrow. 🙂
@@hiimchad Hey Chad--hope it's all going well, sir! The Arrow is on the bike, and I gotta say I love it; it just plays beautiful music. I also recently received the Openflash tablet and yesterday uploaded the Stage 2 tuning file. I can't wait to take it out this weekend. I imagine I'm going to have some fun. Keep up the videos, man!
I want that bike soo bad.
It's a fun bike 🙂
BTW, you sound like Gov DeSantis…
Haven't gotten that one before.. 😅
Another life hack is to use thick lithium grease (I'm using CRC Super Adhesive Grease). This came from the mechanic that did the valve check/adjustment last fall. He told there was quite a lot of dust in the air box (I think that was from one trip particularly when I had to ride in a dust cloud behind a car). Yesterday when I changed the filter the air box was clean. I wiped out most of the old grease and added new: i.imgur.com/LTiz57Z.jpg
Interesting! Does this grease attract dirt? And is this on place of the RTV I used in this video?
@@hiimchad Yes, the dirt sticks to the grease, not that there was much dirt because the grease also blocks the air flow = less dirt. I did not remove the bracket to see if he put it there too (because the box was clean, if it works don't fix it 😀), possibly but cannot confirm. Maybe I'll check next time.
@@N0t4v41l4ble totally get that, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!”
Perfect vid! Thank you very much! Greetings from Germany ✌🏼
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed and you’re very welcome. Greetings from America ✌️✌️