Troubleshooting CRV Tensioner/Belt Noise
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2020
- Troubleshooting a mystery noise on my CRV that appeared immediately after a changing the belt. I've replaced the belt tensioner assembly, but the noise is still there. It's been this way for a year, and the noise has never gotten any better or worse.
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Thanks for posting this. I had this squeak for awhile and recently got worse with clicking noise on my 2008 CR-V. Couldn't figure it out, and came across your video, went down and picked up an OEM belt (which the dealers are proud of at 120 bucks) and solved the issue. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Yes this belt and or tensioner is very high priced
Hey i had to refind ur video just to tell u thanks and u saved me a bunch if money. I too thought it was the tensioner or the power steering pump. It was the belt. Thanks again!!
Glad it helped! that was the whole idea of posting it.
Great video by the way.
Glad you enjoyed it
Ever get it figured out? Did you notice the arrow on the block at the tensioner? That have anything to do with it??
Definitely something in the tensioner or belt length.. You can plainly see the tensioner pulley bolt vibrating back and forth during that sound. Also, the tensioner indicator shows a stretched belt even though it's new. Try another belt. Maybe your new belt was longer than your old belt. Or it's a weak tensioner assembly. I get the same type of sound only for a half of second, but ONLY when moving very slowly like coming to a stop or out of a stop, or putting the headlights on when at a stop sign. I think my tensioner pulley bearing is bad. I replaced the belt and tensioner indicator arrow is now great, but still get the noise. With the OEM belt, the tensioner indicator arrow should point somewhere near the left edge of the deep rectangle.
I’m having this exact same issue on my 05 CRV. I changed the pulley tensioner and it went away. Makes me wonder if the belt is too long because it’s not OEM or the tensioner I bought has already gone bad. What are your thoughts on early in the video with the pulley/tensioner moving when he hits the accelerator? Should be any movement?
The Gates belt I used for the placement was longer that the OEM version. I was silly and didn't do a side-by-side check when I changed them. I ordered the expensive OEM version just as a last ditch effort to fix and discovered my problem when I compared.
@@spitstickler just ordered and OEM myself. I did a side by side comparison with my previous after market. How much of a difference in size did you have?
@@worldtraveler419 the gates belt was around an inch longer
@@spitstickler wow, that’s significant. Thanks again. Hopefully you don’t need to make anymore auto videos. Lol if so, I’ll be sure to watch.
All belts move some as the load is put on them like AC being turned on i have been working on cars over 40 plus years i have
never seen this with a 2.4 engine so i have Called Honda of Amercia for some answer to this no one will answer to this problem.
hi @spitsticler, i’m having the same problem with our honda crv 2003… did the issue with your crv, solved? changing the drive belt with an oem… did the problem or issue recur, unitl now?
Oem belt fixed it. Been running fine ever since.
can you still remember the oem part no.?
Same happened to mine. It is the Chain guides inside for mine.
What’s the best aftermarket belt that’s the same size as the oem? I not trying to pay 160 for it at the dealer .
Dayco
Gates
I bought a Bando and it works great. Affordable too.
Bando oem honda
My crv 2012 had the same problem when I got to 68k . Replaced with a gates tensioner . Honda OEM was to much money.
Which brand’ fan belt, I should buy? Because I tried Calibre but it is not good.
OEM from Honda is what fixed the problem for me.
@@spitsticklerwhat is the OEM brand? Bando?
Just a little more info on this noise the VCT gear on the intake side can be losing oil pressure and causing noise of this kind i also replaced the one on my car and all noise is gone wow what a relief this repair is now. GOOD Luck everyone on this problem.
So your problem was the belt? I have the same issue with my daughter's car (07 CRV). I changed the tensioner last night. I still have the same problem.
Yes, it was 100% a belt length issue. The 3rd party replacement belt I got from the O'Reilly's was longer. I didn't compare it to the one I took off before I put it on (my mistake) and just assumed it was correct. I replace with an OEM belt and it fixed the issue immediately. My tensioner was never the issue.
I had a slight rattle on start up . accessory drive belt was very slightly stretched only 75000mi .Replaced the belt no more rattle. Tensioner rattled.
2018 CRV started squealing when vehicle is in motion, however when you stop the noise goes away..it seems like when you turn left it squeals but turning left no noise..one guy said might be the power steering and another said it's your tensioner..anyone had the same issue ?
Check if it is bubbling in power steering fluid while you turning your steering.
that is a drive belt to lose replace belt
Same issue here on my 06, but i do not think that the belt is to long , when i had a hard time getting it on, seems more like be to short.
yes sir my belt was also tight to put on i have the same noise
His tensioner indicator with the new belt shows it's stretched or too long.
I have same problem after changed the belt. Even, I change tensioner, power steering pump but still has a problem.
I replaced the belt with Calibre brand.
My problem is solved after put back old one.
Can you suggest me which brand makes perfect fan belt? Please
Update on this problem REPLACE the drive belt tensioner with a Factory Honda part and a Factory drive belt this will fix the noise you are hearing there are very close tolerance for the drive belt system on the CRV 2008 and others. After market parts does not fix this problem.06/4/2024
Mine does the same thing only when the cooling fans come on , WTF. As soon as they go off, it goes away and then repeats. I just put the Gates belt part #k070683 and still the same. The belts looked close to the same length. Pointer on tensioner is on the loose side of the rectangle. Not sure what the old belt was
Mine only does this when cooling system engages too! Did you find a fix for yours?
@@paradox8038 oem belt coming today, I'll let you know
@@elijahperez159 okay awesome! Thanks!!
@@elijahperez159 did it fix it?
Hey everyone the OEM belt fixed my issue . What a difference 🤪. Didn't need the tensioner. Found it on eBay for half the price @ 58$
cut a 1 gallon jug in half and shove a screwdriver into the pour top. Touch the tip of the screwdriver to the top of the bolt holding the idler pulley, alternator etc. The bad one will sound rough.
Your new belt is too long. Look at the indicator marks on the tensioner, it's at 'full stretch' as the arrow is furthest forward, the arrow mark should be more aligned with the long rectangle embossment on the tensioner. A lot of times the aftermarket belts don't get the right sizing. Do research on OEM belt length and find out your exact belt length of the aftermarket unit. I would bet money your aftermarket belt is too long for you.
You are 100% absolutely right. I didn't realize what the marks on the tensioner were for. I went back and bought an eom belt and put it on. Magic... I never could find dimensions for the OEM belt, but noticed as I went to look at other 3rd party options that the gates belt was the longest and everything else was shorter. There was a significant difference in length. I may do a follow up video at some point. Thx for the comment.
@@spitstickler Awesome glad I could be of help! I know the OEM belts are expensive, but they truly do last and last relative to aftermarket belts, and you know the sizing is just right. Cheers
So if I get this noise and the mark in the tensioner is off place I should assume the belt is bad before changing the tensioner right?
@@Mario-qr6oe definitely. It could be both, but it's not all that likely. Change belt first, but make absolutely sure the new belt is the correct length and not off by some mm.
@@Mario-qr6oe If the marks on the tensioner are showing it isn't providing tension, it could be that your belt is too long or perhaps has stretched out. If the tensioner marks show in the right place, but you are still getting the clatter, my bet is that either the spring in the tensioner isn't good any more, or perhaps there a bearing going out somewhere else that is causing additional strain. I had guessed the later, but in the end, it was just that my new replacement belt was just a touch too long.
The belt didn't slip. The compressor clutch disengages at high rpms. It's to save the bearing from rotating at speeds it's not rated for
your are on the wrong noise we are dealing with
Your replacement belt is too long.
Learn about the diagnostic marks on the tensioner. With belt too loose any accessory pulley is more likely to slip and make noise.
Always use Honda OEM parts in critical places like engine and electrics.
i put the same number Bando belt that came off of the engine when i got the CRV new in 2008