Nice job putting this together and explaining it - and for sharing the creds and link! I chose to put the rivets on with the rivet heads on the outside of the window because the rivet head has a little less profile sticking out against the rubber strip vs the rivet tail and a washer. So far no cracking of the drill holes but hey, it's good to show that it can be done differently. Thanks again!!
Thanks and as sportsmen or women I feel we see something and we run with it. Between your video and mine the Menards stores by me were running out of weatherstripping. I don't like the rivet tails sticking towards the weatherstripping but on the horizontal windows the extra strip covers them. The downside i found on the rivets the other way is it seemed to tilt the glass in because it hit the hinge. Both problems are minor considering that the cost breaks down to about $20 compared to a full window that only allows you to use half to shoot out of and takes so little time compared to framing a piece of lexan.
Thanks for the idea! I used it to create six 24" x 12" windows on my latest 6' x 4' elevated box blind and couldn't be more pleased with the results after this past season. They are super quiet to open and close so I am able to keep them closed to keep my scent contained and the blind warmer when it's cold and windy plus they are weather proof and keep the varmints and bugs out (where they belong). I liked the idea of riveting the hinges to the plexiglass but unfortunately my technique needs a bit of work and I inadvertently cracked the plexiglass at the hinge holes on some of the windows but NO PROBLEM. Fortunately I had watched another RUclips video on the wonders of combining superglue and baking soda to make super strong repairs on my mistakes and all windows stood up well to a lot of use over the past season. All my future deer blinds will feature these types of windows!
Glad to help. Best part about hunters is we learn something, experiment and put our own spin on it and keep improving. My one question is was the rivet shank steel or aluminum? Steel grab harder and are more likely to break plexiglass.
Try using longer rivets and adding washers on both side. But get rubber gasket washers to soften the squeeze from the rivets right against the plastic and the metal washers on top of them.
@@ch34pskate16 Thanks, I'll try that next time. The superglue/baking soda fix appears to be holding up well into the second season of use and I made a second blind during this past off season and was a little more careful with the rivets and avoided cracking the plexiglass but I can see how the longer rivets and rubber washers would be helpful. Everyone at the deer lease are fans of these blind windows so I expect all new blinds will use them in the future...especially since we have a free source for the 1/4" thick plexiglass!
Love the window setup . On the bottom outside put a 1\4"H x 1'2"W shim at the back and it will help the water run off. Also, use Lexan instead of Plexi, 10x stronger with less chance of splitting or cracking
Good idea, I like it! Lexan is so expensive. I just looked at a piece of plastic and I don’t know if it was Lexan, but anyway, a 2X4 piece was $79.00 Glass was very cheap, like me. I thought about making a thin wood frame and put double strength glass in it. I would still be able to use the garage door weatherstrip idea
Hope you have a home depot nearby. These make enough for 4-5 blinds with 3-5 windows each and the .177 thickness is perfect. Hope it helps. Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing: LEXAN 48 in. x 96 in. x 0.177 in. Clear Polycarbonate Sheet www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-48-in-x-96-in-x-0-177-in-Clear-Polycarbonate-Sheet-11600101/301894184 SKU# 301894184
Why not use 2x4s..... cut grooves in them placing one on top and bottom. Place the " real " glass in the groove... shim the 2x4 to allow the glass to slide freely ....and allow space for the glass to slide from side to side in the groove ? No hinges no screws....just a basic sliding window. Better yet.... use two glasses. Can have an opening in the center..... or open the entire area !
My windows have a 3.5" ledge, bc I built my blind with the 2x4's on their side. Do they make this stuff 3.5 or 4" wide? Or any ideas how I could incorporate this design? I like that it prevents water and the elements from contacting the wood window frame. Thanks
Garage door weatherstripping, garage door stop. Like this: www.menards.com/main/hardware/weather-stripping/royal-reg-building-products-7-16-x-2-pvc-garage-door-stops/5666400/p-1467147807017-c-3624.htm?tid=-8740787859962068950&ipos=1
We used to use sliders but ran into 2 problems. Sealing without rubbing and scratching is difficult and I never liked how I would loose half the opening over what I would have with a flip in or out window.
I've made several of these big blinds recently here in northern MI using both hinges and slider windows. I prefer the sliders too. I build taller blinds and I design it so the window slides all the way up in place (or you can remove it completely) and it does not hang below the bottom of the top edge of the window frame. It seals pretty flush and will not scratch the window if you build it right.
It keeps insects, animals and water out. Keeps the cold wind, rain, and snow out of your face, and keeps you warmer during the winter. Most places get cold in the winter during deer season.
Nice job putting this together and explaining it - and for sharing the creds and link! I chose to put the rivets on with the rivet heads on the outside of the window because the rivet head has a little less profile sticking out against the rubber strip vs the rivet tail and a washer. So far no cracking of the drill holes but hey, it's good to show that it can be done differently. Thanks again!!
Thanks and as sportsmen or women I feel we see something and we run with it. Between your video and mine the Menards stores by me were running out of weatherstripping. I don't like the rivet tails sticking towards the weatherstripping but on the horizontal windows the extra strip covers them. The downside i found on the rivets the other way is it seemed to tilt the glass in because it hit the hinge. Both problems are minor considering that the cost breaks down to about $20 compared to a full window that only allows you to use half to shoot out of and takes so little time compared to framing a piece of lexan.
I'm not sure but I will be sure to use aluminum next time...
Hello David, definitely awesome way for windows, thanks for sharing
Thanks for the idea!
I used it to create six 24" x 12" windows on my latest 6' x 4' elevated box blind and couldn't be more pleased with the results after this past season. They are super quiet to open and close so I am able to keep them closed to keep my scent contained and the blind warmer when it's cold and windy plus they are weather proof and keep the varmints and bugs out (where they belong).
I liked the idea of riveting the hinges to the plexiglass but unfortunately my technique needs a bit of work and I inadvertently cracked the plexiglass at the hinge holes on some of the windows but NO PROBLEM. Fortunately I had watched another RUclips video on the wonders of combining superglue and baking soda to make super strong repairs on my mistakes and all windows stood up well to a lot of use over the past season.
All my future deer blinds will feature these types of windows!
Glad to help. Best part about hunters is we learn something, experiment and put our own spin on it and keep improving. My one question is was the rivet shank steel or aluminum? Steel grab harder and are more likely to break plexiglass.
Try using longer rivets and adding washers on both side. But get rubber gasket washers to soften the squeeze from the rivets right against the plastic and the metal washers on top of them.
@@ch34pskate16 Thanks, I'll try that next time. The superglue/baking soda fix appears to be holding up well into the second season of use and I made a second blind during this past off season and was a little more careful with the rivets and avoided cracking the plexiglass but I can see how the longer rivets and rubber washers would be helpful. Everyone at the deer lease are fans of these blind windows so I expect all new blinds will use them in the future...especially since we have a free source for the 1/4" thick plexiglass!
Love the window setup . On the bottom outside put a 1\4"H x 1'2"W shim at the back and it will help the water run off. Also, use Lexan instead of Plexi, 10x stronger with less chance of splitting or cracking
Good idea, I like it! Lexan is so expensive. I just looked at a piece of plastic and I don’t know if it was Lexan, but anyway, a 2X4 piece was $79.00
Glass was very cheap, like me. I thought about making a thin wood frame and put double strength glass in it. I would still be able to use the garage door weatherstrip idea
Hope you have a home depot nearby. These make enough for 4-5 blinds with 3-5 windows each and the .177 thickness is perfect. Hope it helps.
Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:
LEXAN 48 in. x 96 in. x 0.177 in. Clear Polycarbonate Sheet
www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-48-in-x-96-in-x-0-177-in-Clear-Polycarbonate-Sheet-11600101/301894184
SKU# 301894184
Thank You Sir! This is a great setup!👍🇺🇸
If I would change anything, I would use torx head screws or square heads. Keeps from them stripping out while driving them
I've switched myself to t25 exterior and really like them.
Mount the plexiglass on the exterior with a rain drip guard across the top would stop the rain intrusion.
I like my windows to open out and up like awnings so if it is raining and snowing it keeps my stand dryer inside and off my rifle.
Thank you for the tip.
where did you get the plexie glass?
great concept for windows! Curious as to what you used to pull the window open and to shut them? Maybe I missed this. Happy hunting!
Windows on the inside. Weather stripe on outside. Just flip the window up.
what holds it closed?
@@BuckPole
Why not use 2x4s..... cut grooves in them placing one on top and bottom. Place the " real " glass in the groove... shim the 2x4 to allow the glass to slide freely ....and allow space for the glass to slide from side to side in the groove ? No hinges no screws....just a basic sliding window. Better yet.... use two glasses. Can have an opening in the center..... or open the entire area !
That works fine. I've just had bad luck with it getting scratches that way.
My windows have a 3.5" ledge, bc I built my blind with the 2x4's on their side. Do they make this stuff 3.5 or 4" wide? Or any ideas how I could incorporate this design? I like that it prevents water and the elements from contacting the wood window frame. Thanks
Maybe an extra piece of pvc molding but it will probably take a lot of caulk.
Run the garage seal through a table saw and cut it down to the width that works for you.
Whats the name of the weather stripping you used? General name not brand name. Ty
Garage door weatherstripping, garage door stop. Like this: www.menards.com/main/hardware/weather-stripping/royal-reg-building-products-7-16-x-2-pvc-garage-door-stops/5666400/p-1467147807017-c-3624.htm?tid=-8740787859962068950&ipos=1
How do you see out of them
What size rivets and washers please ?
I rather make t he plastic glass slide left or right or down and up are much better.
We used to use sliders but ran into 2 problems. Sealing without rubbing and scratching is difficult and I never liked how I would loose half the opening over what I would have with a flip in or out window.
@@BuckPole these are exactly the same reasons why I also prefer hinged windows over sliders.
I've made several of these big blinds recently here in northern MI using both hinges and slider windows. I prefer the sliders too. I build taller blinds and I design it so the window slides all the way up in place (or you can remove it completely) and it does not hang below the bottom of the top edge of the window frame. It seals pretty flush and will not scratch the window if you build it right.
You should use a darker color than white.
I use mostly almond and brown but the sickness had taken over and I got what I could. Great observation.
Why not make a sliding window. 2 parts of plexiglass.
Wahoo!
Thanks, I think.
Why would a blind deer need a window?
20 degrees below zero. I know that's rare even here but it does get down to 15 to 0 degrees out on a fairly regular basis.
Without windows, birds, mainly owls, get in there and make a horrendous mess.
It keeps insects, animals and water out. Keeps the cold wind, rain, and snow out of your face, and keeps you warmer during the winter. Most places get cold in the winter during deer season.
Horrible window design bro. Their style hinges will start squeaking.
what is your solution?