As a one stop shop, I constantly run into this issue with designers who don’t want to make decisions about the “boring stuff” but then are quick to blame manufacturers for missing the mark with all the “boring stuff” they delegated to them without much guidance. Our clients these days are a hand full of designers with formal training or experience but mostly creators (without industry experience) launching products (not just clothing) to sell in the creator economy so these days we are even hired to do sizing research to validate with data and then create a fit guide and grading rules. I’m so glad you brought this up and clarified so many misconceptions! ❤🎉😅
Fantastic video subject, thank you Zoe Hong! I must say we live in great times when we can access real information regarding many industries, in this case Fashion. Funny how in many ways the Creative part is the one that gets talked about while the real parts and pieces that get the garments done and into the stores we assume that they magically happen. Thank you Zoe Hong for all the great content!
Great explanation of the basics of grade rules! I'm a patternmaker/grader, the Hanford book is the only one I'm aware exists. Unfortunately, the actual grade rules listed in the book and the grading distributions (especially for pants) are out of date with what most of the industry is doing today. Thanks for doing these videos. I end up working with a lot of newer companies that left grade rules up to factories and THEN they realize they need more control and consistency.
Good to know! It's so interesting thikning about bodies (in general, en masse) evolving over time and our clothing has to change its pattern configurations to evolve with it.
Thanks for this comment, I suspected this was the case. I found the rules too simple, and they add too much too quickly in areas. I don't think it is exactly that bodies have changed, so rules have had to change to keep up. It's more that the old industry had the luxury of working only in a small size range, so mistakes made in grading tables went largely unchecked. I also wouldn't recommend this book for learning today, because it's only one method--manually move the pattern one size at a time. Those movements add up, and conceptually it's much more helpful to see the total movement of the shoulder point, not that it's move 1/32" from the previous pattern position. The tables in Handford can be converted into nett but if the numbers aren't good and the presentation isn't good, there's a better way....
if you want to have a successful company or brand you need to learn the boring and technical skills needed for a brand design is the easy part guys managing a company and production is the hard part but it can be easy if you give yourself the knowledge, knowledge is power.
I learned a lot about making patterns in my size during my sewing journey. And I've enjoyed it. I guess I owe that to designs that don't cater to my (very large) size.
Hi!!!!! 👋 Thank you for the information. I myself took a grading class in a fashion designing school. It was helpful but I wasn't good at grading. Right now I do alterations for my customers as a side hustle and when a customer asks me about what size they should buy . Most of the time the size charts it does help and some of my customers go up a size. I know it's not grading but some of it when a size charts and what I learn from grading class to me comes hand to hand and it helps me to make better decisions on fitting customers. Keep up the amazing work 💪😊 Robin N.Otis-Clayborne
Me, an artist: "grade? Like A, B, C, D?" I was once hired as an art teacher I also had that same thought: "I'm supposed to grade art? Like A, B, C, D?" Does not compute lol
I often do sizes differently: I base it on a persons shoulder width, so I would be basing weaves on a shoulder to shoulder measurement. Rather than basing it on sizes. The thought process here is that its able to fit someone regardless of how big or thin they are. Id have to adjust things for trousers though.
I don’t know if you gonna read my comment but I wanna thankyou Thankyou for a,k the amazing contents I had to make content for my internship and I was clueless about fashion I knew literally nothing but thanks to you! They loved my content!! Even gave me a shout out that’s was really unexpected thank you so muchhhh!!!!! You are amazing ❤❤
When you decrease, say 1/4" from one size to the next, does that mean the overall size is reduced by 1/4" or does that mean that each pattern piece is reduced by 1/4" - some like the back pattern piece are reduced 1/4"on each side? I don't mind the math and tables
example: Chest circumference will be at minimum 2 pattern pieces, so 4 cut edges to sew into 2 side seams. The grade can say "-1" and that will mean -1/4" from front left, -1/4" from back left, etc etc. It's "take this out of the total measurement" not each pattern piece.
You are seriously so cool, thank you for doing what you do :) do you have any advice for someone who’s looking to get custom clothes made? (Like me lol :)
You don't have to, but many do because it's fun and easy to refer to. All pieces need a style number, to communicate with both factories and buyers. Names are optional.
As a one stop shop, I constantly run into this issue with designers who don’t want to make decisions about the “boring stuff” but then are quick to blame manufacturers for missing the mark with all the “boring stuff” they delegated to them without much guidance.
Our clients these days are a hand full of designers with formal training or experience but mostly creators (without industry experience) launching products (not just clothing) to sell in the creator economy so these days we are even hired to do sizing research to validate with data and then create a fit guide and grading rules.
I’m so glad you brought this up and clarified so many misconceptions! ❤🎉😅
"You asked", and the whole of humanity was put to their place, I love it 🤣
😂😂😂
Fantastic video subject, thank you Zoe Hong! I must say we live in great times when we can access real information regarding many industries, in this case Fashion. Funny how in many ways the Creative part is the one that gets talked about while the real parts and pieces that get the garments done and into the stores we assume that they magically happen. Thank you Zoe Hong for all the great content!
Great explanation of the basics of grade rules! I'm a patternmaker/grader, the Hanford book is the only one I'm aware exists. Unfortunately, the actual grade rules listed in the book and the grading distributions (especially for pants) are out of date with what most of the industry is doing today. Thanks for doing these videos. I end up working with a lot of newer companies that left grade rules up to factories and THEN they realize they need more control and consistency.
Good to know! It's so interesting thikning about bodies (in general, en masse) evolving over time and our clothing has to change its pattern configurations to evolve with it.
Thanks for this comment, I suspected this was the case. I found the rules too simple, and they add too much too quickly in areas. I don't think it is exactly that bodies have changed, so rules have had to change to keep up. It's more that the old industry had the luxury of working only in a small size range, so mistakes made in grading tables went largely unchecked. I also wouldn't recommend this book for learning today, because it's only one method--manually move the pattern one size at a time. Those movements add up, and conceptually it's much more helpful to see the total movement of the shoulder point, not that it's move 1/32" from the previous pattern position. The tables in Handford can be converted into nett but if the numbers aren't good and the presentation isn't good, there's a better way....
if you want to have a successful company or brand you need to learn the boring and technical skills needed for a brand design is the easy part guys managing a company and production is the hard part but it can be easy if you give yourself the knowledge, knowledge is power.
Pho real
I learned a lot about making patterns in my size during my sewing journey. And I've enjoyed it. I guess I owe that to designs that don't cater to my (very large) size.
Honestly, I do enjoy making patterns. I don't enjoy grading. haha~
This was so cool to learn about, I feel like it would be so difficult to figure this out on your own
Guys, Don’t forget to thumbs up Zoe’s videos! She’s literally like 1 of maybe 3 people we got on here 😂
Who are the others in my category? Maybe I need to reach out to do a collab...
Hi!!!!! 👋 Thank you for the information. I myself took a grading class in a fashion designing school. It was helpful but I wasn't good at grading. Right now I do alterations for my customers as a side hustle and when a customer asks me about what size they should buy . Most of the time the size charts it does help and some of my customers go up a size. I know it's not grading but some of it when a size charts and what I learn from grading class to me comes hand to hand and it helps me to make better decisions on fitting customers. Keep up the amazing work 💪😊 Robin N.Otis-Clayborne
Thanks, Zoe! This is useful information to know where to start with grading. I find grading intimidating.
Me, an artist: "grade? Like A, B, C, D?"
I was once hired as an art teacher I also had that same thought: "I'm supposed to grade art? Like A, B, C, D?"
Does not compute lol
I usually use a self employed guy to do a one off grading. But if I want to grade multiple sizes then I go to grading company who can bash it out.
It's definitely going to be an asset to invest in getting and going through your entire book recommendations. Thank you for another insightful video!
I often do sizes differently: I base it on a persons shoulder width, so I would be basing weaves on a shoulder to shoulder measurement. Rather than basing it on sizes.
The thought process here is that its able to fit someone regardless of how big or thin they are.
Id have to adjust things for trousers though.
Omgosh I absolutely love your energy and you’re so right about grading 😂😂😂
Not exactly the easiest thing to wake up to, but good information!
Too many numbers for first thing in the morning! hahahaha~
I feel like in school they didn’t do a good job of teaching grade rules, I’ve been compensating for it through youtube and books
i can’t wait to do a deeper dive into grading
I'm learning the grading. Thank you for your share.
I don’t know if you gonna read my comment but I wanna thankyou Thankyou for a,k the amazing contents I had to make content for my internship and I was clueless about fashion I knew literally nothing but thanks to you! They loved my content!! Even gave me a shout out that’s was really unexpected thank you so muchhhh!!!!! You are amazing ❤❤
This is invaluable information. Great video!
When you decrease, say 1/4" from one size to the next, does that mean the overall size is reduced by 1/4" or does that mean that each pattern piece is reduced by 1/4" - some like the back pattern piece are reduced 1/4"on each side? I don't mind the math and tables
example: Chest circumference will be at minimum 2 pattern pieces, so 4 cut edges to sew into 2 side seams. The grade can say "-1" and that will mean -1/4" from front left, -1/4" from back left, etc etc. It's "take this out of the total measurement" not each pattern piece.
@@zoehongteaches Thank you!
The hat continues! Yes!
Omg my brain, trying so hard to grasp what you’re saying….😅love the hat!
This is so interesting!
Thank you
🙋🏾♀️
Thank You For This!
You are seriously so cool, thank you for doing what you do :) do you have any advice for someone who’s looking to get custom clothes made? (Like me lol :)
Not related to this Video but I am curious, do designers need to name each of the looks in a collection? Anyways thanks again for this video. ❤❤
You don't have to, but many do because it's fun and easy to refer to. All pieces need a style number, to communicate with both factories and buyers. Names are optional.
Yes, I'm bigger in regular shoe brands but smaller in Doc Martens lol
❤❤❤ в тексте надо прочитать
Thank You
I'm one of the women who's a different size in different brands haha 😆anywhere from a 10 to a 14