Hey guys, new episodes about washing machine motors are now online: Salvage a washing machine motor+transmission: ruclips.net/video/H_JV7jTH4wU/видео.html Inside a Washing Machine Motor: Pinout, Teardown, Explanations and Experiments: ruclips.net/video/CtulRqznbzI/видео.html
The Post Apocalyptic Inventor i just stumbled on your channel and you really love what your doing…thats for sure✌if you have the time to make a beer can crusher in your style of thinking that would be so satisfying and educational,i have seen lots on youtube…and believe me…some are good…more than some are just terrible…i want your style of brain-work on that subject and make it as compact as possible🙏i hope you can make a 500ml can…in to a 10mm can …well the only thing i can say to you is…PLEASE…master🙏✌and i subd you brother…love your work man✌🙌
Very well engineered, you didn't just throw stuff together for the sake of a video, and the result is something worth having around and functional. Thanks for taking the time to record your work.
I would say an old oil drum would be a good duct for one of those. Consider the fact that props are available in the approximate same size of the inside diameter of those. They are readily available and relatively cheap. Most are of reasonably thick steel construction and would be well suited for something like this. Many people buy them for burn barrels simply cutting off the top and drilling holes in the bottom. I think you could take that a step further with what you have here. Maybe even building a hover craft using part of the thrust or a separate lift motor. This ties in with your idea for a raft and takes it a step further as it could then travel over land and water. You would certainly still want floats underneath in case the motors fail over water as you don't want to simply sink into it. I most sincerely appreciate what you're doing here. I hope you can take this channel far into the future.
Please remember that the tips of the prop can create harmonics if the tips exceed the speed of sound. Those harmonics can vibrate the prop apart from inside out.. Not always giving much warning. I know you are thinking safety but I just wanted to mention this. Take care.
I made a very small wooden prop I want to hook it up to a small motor for my wooden model air plan I made I don't think it will take off but for a fan in the room.
For the part where you fasten the aluminum sheet to the MDF half-circles, you’ll get a better fit if you start in the middle and work out toward the ends, instead of starting at an end. That’s something I learned in art school.
This was an extremely interesting project; not least for all the possibilities it showed. You asked for ideas for making the duct. In the _Mythbusters_ episode testing homemade jetpacks, Jamie built an aerodynamic housing using roofing-foam, carved and sanded to shape, and covered in carbon-fibre. As weight is not an issue, but cost is, fibreglass would be a better choice.
I reckon building yourself a sheetmetal roller out of salvaged materials would be pretty useful for a few of the projects you do including this one. In fact, building all manner of workshop machines out of recycled pieces of cast aside tech would be a great series.
For what you want to build (a ducted canal to move air quickly) I would take a different approach. In fact, you are looking for a centrifugal blower/extractor. They are smaller, more effective, and offer other important advantages over axial fans - like the one you've built. Their in- and outlets are already there, ready to be connected for whatever application you need it for, and one big advantage is that they can move not only clean air, but also air with various dust particles, or even toxic gases. In an axial fan, you can't really do it, unless ou want to ruin the motor, as the air passes through it. That's why centrifugal blowers find applications in the industry, to pull out or blow the air. But anyway, thanks a lot for another great video. I love watching your vids.
Concrete form tube might do the trick for a pre-built/cheap tube. I think that this project would work quite well as an air displacement system; during hot summer days, pull cooler air into the house in the early morning then close up the house before it gets hot. Might even be useful for drying out damp basements or large amounts of water soaked into carpet. You could also use it next to a wood burning stove in a garage.
Looks good. If you get a larger prop and cut the tapered tips down a well as get them as close to the duct as possible you'll get much better efficiency.
Here's an idea I haven't seen made in a home shop before, venturi effect air duct or dust collector. A simple T intersection and a bit of experimentation for diameters and angles and you should have a very effective way to move airborne particles from one place to another while keeping your motor and propeller clean. I'm curious to see if a small motor like that could still provide enough force to maintain suction with a collection bag. To get a tighter tolerance on your prop. you could make a D shaft. Cut your OD and ID the same way, then grind a flat section off your motor shaft. Next file a flat face on the ID of your prop. You will then need to make a press fit key out of wood, which will basically be a small block with a slight taper to push it in tight.
For prototyping work, I would look into what we refer to in the US as sonotubes (brand name). These are heavy-weight, thick-walled cardboard tubes that are used as forms for pouring concrete footings. Available in a variety of diameters/lengths at home improvement stores.
An electric hovercraft would be too heavy with the batteries it takes to run that motor, Fossil Fuel still rules supreme in Power to weight ratios, Even Lithium batteries don't even come close.. Electric stays on the ground, for now.
Ladies and Gentleman - he's back! ;) ref. the duct - I've seen blue Polyethylen barrels used in the food industry go on sale in places like Jawoll and other discount markets for round about 10-15 euros. I use them to catch rainwater off the roof and for composting.
You might be able to get a prop-shaft adapter. The back of these are a collet which fit the prop-shaft, whilst the front is a threaded rod and spinner. When the spinner is tightened it also tightens the collet onto the prop-shaft.
You’ve got the fuselage completed, now fabricate some wings, the undercarriage and a yoke - and you have yourself a home built areo-plane! Just kidding man... This looks like a GREAT application for an attic exhaust ventilator. GENIUS way to re-purpose a washing machine motor!
For ducting, maybe use the round "Sonotube" brand concrete forms from Lowes / Home Depot. They start at 6" and go up to 36" diameter. Quikcrete's "Quik-Tube" is another brand they might have available.
You might be better off using one of the larger propellers and trimming the end square for maximum efficiency. If you look at your propeller you'll see the ends are contoured to allow the air to smoothly roll off them but in a duct fan that just allows more of a gap where you should be making the highest velocity air.
tonymengela - yes, it will fail catastrophically. The forces on propellers are immense, and universal washing machine motors can run at very high speeds.
you have cool projects , effected well , good narration as for suggestion for the duct , yes plastic pails come in those sizes as well as some of the plastic road drainage pipe . metal pails solvents come in
To attach the prop, bore the center hole in the prop to the correct size, but only go 3/4 of the way through. Then drill and tap a hole on the end of the motor shaft. Slide the prop on and bolt the end then you will have a very solid connection. You would probably want to use loctite or something similar on the bolt to keep it from backing out.
yes, a wind tunnel, but with one end having a removable section containing a lattice of clothes dryer heating coils so it can be used to heat your shop in winter.
Also, I have a big favor to ask; could you try to make a universal motor where instead of brushes there are electromagnets, hence powering the commutator with induction? I would make one myself if I had the supplies, and I don't expect you to either, but I might as well share the idea incase I don't get around to it
hello, I was very interested in your project regarding the duct and you asked for comments to that effect, I would like to suggest copper water storage cylinders would be very effective, just cut both ends and that is all you need. These are being removed regularly by plumbers as new heating systems are installed, I have recently used one for a collecting saw dust from my workshop with a vacuum motor. good luck
to get the gear off the shaft of the motor, if you use a normal grinding disc, and just keep on grinding threw the gear, you will get to a point where its so thin it glows red. At that point when you have done that all the way along, the gear will snap open and will be easily pulled off the shaft. That is how i get bearing cases off shafts at work! HTH
It may take a bit of machining but you should install a prop hub to mount the prop to the motor. The hub would slide on the shaft and be pinned in place with a flange on the back side that the prop would rest against keeping it square to the shaft. Then the shaft would protrude through the hub and prop with a threaded end allowing you to bolt the prop one easily. However the shaft you have may need to be extended and threaded on the end.
good work, this would be a good project for a mini wind tunnel to test items for wind turbulences. you may need to fit a small wind meter and smoke machine. may be use a old 210lt shipping barrel cut both side off or one depends on which one you get as the duct cheaper and faster. thanks for sharing.
nice job, I was thinking about something very similar, mine was for a homemade drone the fly it to the grocery store, load, then return, mine would hover about 6ft high attached to a tow bar towing the weight instead of carrying it, setup with relays for obstacles the drone would drop to ensure a signal maybe using a little follow drone, lots of ideas. I've been collecting shop vac motors, leaf blower motors and others to find the right 1 for the job.
Maybe use a "pusher prop" of the same size. In its current configuration - relative to RC Duct-ed fans - the motor side of the fan directs air to the prop side of the fan. Also another improvement would be to buy the larger prop and cut it to the duct with as little tolerance as possible for better efficiency and more thrust. Thanks for the video!
One strategy for attaching the propeller, perhaps more permanently, might be to form a hub for the propeller out of steel or delrin with holes for bolts through the central part of the propeller parallel to the axis of the motor shaft and a plate on the other side to distribute the load. The other side of the hub could be bored to fit over the motor shaft, and a tightly fitting shear pin of some sort could be used to secure it to the shaft. The advantage of this set-up (I think) is that while a slightly loose steel cotter pin going through wood would tend to chew up and gouge the wooden hole over time, a tightly fitting steel pin going through a steel hub would be much more durable.
You could get the larger propeller with the bigger hub, then trim the blades down. You do not need the pointed ends if you are using a duct and can use "bullnose" props without a loss of efficiency, and you can get the stronger hub without increasing the overall size of the assembly
In a previous vid you were cocerned about motor speed runaway and the effects that has on the bearings and brushes. Actually the main fail point i've found is that the windings of the rotor fly out and touch the stator and thus burn out. However if you have a reasonably matched load like a propellor you will find that it will self limit easily because the load/ speed curve is not linear but exponential.
the motor has two wired on the back. Most probably a tacometer. So just hook and arduino to a mosfet via a totem pole, hook the tacometer to an intertupt pin, count the time between pulses or the number of pulses in one second and add the pid library to regulate the mosfet with a pwm signal. The motor most probably wont start at very low duty cicle so check where does it start and add that to the output of the pid controller. then just use PD or PID if you want a more precise speed.
You could try sonotubes for a cheap duct. im not sure what they are called in germany but they are the thick strong cardboard tubes used for pouring round concrete columns. they can be bought at hardware stores but not sure if the diameter would be wide enough. you could use gakvanized culvert steel as well, and that is quite large diameter, also very strong.
I had an idea for a cheap duct, drum shells for a drum kit.. they have a large range of sizes and can be brought very cheap second hand if you dont buy a premium brand. thanks for the videos! :)
you could use a clothes dryer drum for a duct. drum would be very similar to what you have built. also make some wide channel to mount the motor too that spans the diameter inside the drum. you then could use a belt and two pulleys to drive a prop really fast! a shafts that has bearings to use for a prop shaft might be hard to come by. you could use a motor similar to the one you are using as a prop shaft, they are not too hard to find. I wonder if a guy did that, would there be a way to extract the generated voltage off the prop motor (motor used as guide for propeller) to help drive the actual motor doing the work? making it semi/self- efficient? I'm dreaming I know "easier said than done" as we say in the states. cheers! love the video!
Look for US-52 controllers, they're cheap and work good. They allow the motor to maintain a constant speed even when varying the load. I use one of them for my homemade lathe. I don't know if it would be ideal for this application as it reduces the top speed a bit but it might work.
Might be a good vent motor if you are in a room and do stuff like welding, plasma cutting or cutting metal with a blowtorch. It seems this thing moves quite an amount of air, so it could probably a viable fume extractor for these applications. In order to blow oxygen into a wood furnace, it's probably already too big with that propeller (and moves too much air), except if you have a really, really big wood furnace (maybe the size of a 1-car-garage?)...
For a pre-made and inexpensive duct you could try Home Depot in the US. By the brand name "Quik-Krete" I believe. It's a form for concrete used in construction generally. A friend and I created a telescope with a 10 inch mirror that could resolve the eye of Jupiter and rings of Saturn. We used a 12 inch tube approximately 4 feet long, but if memory serves, they have larger diameters.
the problem in figuring it out with math is that I'd have to estimate the thrust output. Either that, or build one myself and measure it. Also, we have to take into account the extras that are needed to make the thing fly. Things like a chair to hold the person, batteries to power the motors, wires, controls, panels, etc. Plus, the strength needed may not be divided evenly between the motors as load balance, wind conditions, and other factors come into play. I'd say, to be safe, if 2 of them can lift a human easily then 4 of them could work as a human sized drone. Otherwise, you'd run into a lot of issues.
+FlipFlopGaming +FlipFlopGaming I thought what you meant was to lift a human in the style of those wind tunnels that let you "fly". Since it's already done, there would've been information on how much thrust and all that you should use. An actual "jetpack" sure would need a lot of work.
Oh, I hadn't even thought of the wind tunnel "sky diving" thing. That stuff is cool, but I seriously doubt even 4 of them would come close. There is info on how much thrust you would need, but it still doesn't tell me how much thrust this ducted fan outputs.
for the ducted effect you should have closer tolerance the prop tips should be very close to the enclosure. also to mount the prop you can get a prop adapter collet . 8mm shafts motors are common on for these props. the prop manufacturer will sell them to suit but you can search them easily on the internet
HI Iwas tinking, Can't you put some sort of heating element inside the duct so that the air will blow on it. You could use this to dry clothes faster, for example. Also coud you convert this motor so that you could make a powerful electric bike? i would really like to see if that would be possible.
You asked for suggestions on attaching the prop. How about a helicoil and set screw? No need to drill out motor shaft. Drill hole in prop in one location. Insert helicoil. Insert screw.
This experiment is the reason I subscribed.. You need to go back to it and see how much thrust you can get.and the power consumption.. After that blast the motor with high voltage DC Resonance frequency from 20,000hz to 100,000hz and see what happends and measure the power consumed.. You may find it revs up and uses almost nothing. Suggest 100-600v.
Use steel oil buckets for duct. Also you could drill and tap the motor shaft to attach the propeller with a bolt and washers. Size the bolt to fit snugly in the proprller bore.
Nice video, But Propellers can be *extremely dangerous* at those RPM's. I think you should learn more about "Wing Tip Speed" . It's very easy for the tip (ends) to reach the speed of sound. (approx. 640 mph) If that happens, The Prop will disintegrate instantly.. It creates a mini sonic BOOM at the tip only, which travels down the length of the prop. The little wire screen guard, won't stop a chard of wood, traveling at the speed of sound.. The tips travel faster than the rest of the prop. *DO THE MATH* , Please, it could kill ya. PDQ. We like your videos. stick around a little longer. :) ..
Out of curiosity, did you try canned air or even liquid nitrogen with a pulley remover? Heating it up only makes it harder to remove, because the metal expands.
You should try to make a hydrogen/oxygen heating torch. You wouldn't be able to weld, due to hydrogen embrittlement, but if you do the math you could find a way to heat the metal without producing too much excess hydrogen. This would be so you could run the torch in your basement and get a large heat output
This ducted propeller may be a good tool to dry or vent cellars, halls, rooms and other spaces inside buildings. For example: for getting moisture out of a cellar in less time than conventional venting fans would do that or for venting a whole room rapidly during a stinky paint job or similar situation. One question though: wouldn't it push more air with a different kind of propeller (much wider blades and three or four of them)? I'm not into aerodynamics part of mechanics so if soneone would be so kind to explain... :)
For securing the propeller you could tapper the hole on the shaft then put a screw and a nut on the propeller. A funny (but useless) thing you can do is trying to dry clothes with your washing machine motor ^^ Or maybe you could do a jig that would allow you to test how much thrust it has (something like a rollerskate secured so it rolls only straight and attached to a newtonmeter)
bohrout :D you really made my day!! (for the English guys, it means bohren=drilling) nice channel tho, one of my favs! watching from Schleswig-Holstein. ;) keep it up :)
Propellers of greater pitch probably won't bring a lot of benefit. The props basically are little wings, that generate lift. In this setup as propeller, the lift is just used for pulling whatever contains the engine, obviously. Wings will stall at a certain angle of attack, meaning the angle of the air hitting the nose of the wing and the centreline of the wing. Usually, that stall angle will be around 10° to 20°. With a propeller, the angle of the air hitting the leading edge of the propeller blade, will be a vector sum of the velocity of the (usually) aircraft and the circumference speed of the propeller (angular velocity times the radius of propeller (when considering the tip. the bits closer to the axle travel slower, obviously, thus have different angle of attack than the tips at the same airspeed of the vessel/craft/thing. That is why propellerblades are twisted from centre to tip.)) Now the faster the vessel/craft/thing moves, the lower this angle gets. As wings produce greater lift the greater the angle of attack is, this speed component will cost you thrust with a propeller. A propeller with a great pitch built in will stall more easily at low speeds, reduce rpms, but still deliver decent thrust at higher speeds whereas a prop of lower pitch will give good thrust at low airspeed, but have the engine screaming and potentially overspeeding at higher airspeeds. That's what the 10 in 16-10 is for: This is a fairly low pitch propeller, good for low speed. My guess would be, that, in a model airplane, an engine of some 20 to 30 ccm and around 2 to 3 hp would match it faily well. Something like a Piper Super Cub model of 8ft wingspan might work well with those, I guess. Probably well capable of glider towing, that kind of uses. Depending on how much Oomph! you motor has to offer, maybe it would be more helpfull to get a three blade prop if the one you use fails to get all the engine power converted to thrust. The lower pitch seems to be a good choice though, as you will hardly need to cope with having to produce thrust while traveling at 100mph or above. By the way, I remember you had that cunning old lathe.Would it be a lot of work spinning a decent hub that will hold the shaft of the engine neatly? Your cotter pin hole is there already, could be used for a screw as well, and you could mount the prop nicely on the engine thus. If you wonder what to do with it, just bolt it to your bike! Feed it from a battery through a 220V converter, and off you go, like Lone Star's space camper on The Schwartz. ^^)
This is a propeller designed to operate best in the optimum power range of a gasoline engine. Electric motors develop torque throughout their speed range; a good prop for an electric motor would be quite different from this one.
You can use sonotube (concrete pillar continually spiralled form) It's heavy-duty cardboard but you could paint the interior with urethane or something else to strengthen/smooth the inside
if you had a lathe you could've used the pulley to machine a flange with a thread on it to tighten down the propeller properly. i would also recommend a bolt and nut instead of the "splint", those things wear the wood out very quickly and are not recommended to transfer torque at all.
Hey guys, new episodes about washing machine motors are now online:
Salvage a washing machine motor+transmission:
ruclips.net/video/H_JV7jTH4wU/видео.html
Inside a Washing Machine Motor:
Pinout, Teardown, Explanations and Experiments:
ruclips.net/video/CtulRqznbzI/видео.html
The Post Apocalyptic Inventor
Is that a Paramotor propeller? You could build a paramotor flying machine.
The Post Apocalyptic Inventor i just stumbled on your channel and you really love what your doing…thats for sure✌if you have the time to make a beer can crusher in your style of thinking that would be so satisfying and educational,i have seen lots on youtube…and believe me…some are good…more than some are just terrible…i want your style of brain-work on that subject and make it as compact as possible🙏i hope you can make a 500ml can…in to a 10mm can …well the only thing i can say to you is…PLEASE…master🙏✌and i subd you brother…love your work man✌🙌
Google propeller duct LOL I found a bunch of premade ones you can order
Very well engineered, you didn't just throw stuff together for the sake of a video, and the result is something worth having around and functional. Thanks for taking the time to record your work.
In general a good idea to test propellars in the middle of the night in a small town.
Just claim it on UFOs, if somebody asks. :-)
I would say an old oil drum would be a good duct for one of those. Consider the fact that props are available in the approximate same size of the inside diameter of those. They are readily available and relatively cheap. Most are of reasonably thick steel construction and would be well suited for something like this. Many people buy them for burn barrels simply cutting off the top and drilling holes in the bottom. I think you could take that a step further with what you have here. Maybe even building a hover craft using part of the thrust or a separate lift motor. This ties in with your idea for a raft and takes it a step further as it could then travel over land and water. You would certainly still want floats underneath in case the motors fail over water as you don't want to simply sink into it. I most sincerely appreciate what you're doing here. I hope you can take this channel far into the future.
Please remember that the tips of the prop can create harmonics if the tips exceed the speed of sound. Those harmonics can vibrate the prop apart from inside out.. Not always giving much warning. I know you are thinking safety but I just wanted to mention this. Take care.
It's not actually 'Harmonics" . It's a sonic boom at the tips of the prop. But, I guess "BOOM" is a harmonic.
skycarl .د
I made a very small wooden prop I want to hook it up to a small motor for my wooden model air plan I made I don't think it will take off but for a fan in the room.
For the part where you fasten the aluminum sheet to the MDF half-circles, you’ll get a better fit if you start in the middle and work out toward the ends, instead of starting at an end. That’s something I learned in art school.
This was an extremely interesting project; not least for all the possibilities it showed.
You asked for ideas for making the duct. In the _Mythbusters_ episode testing homemade jetpacks, Jamie built an aerodynamic housing using roofing-foam, carved and sanded to shape, and covered in carbon-fibre. As weight is not an issue, but cost is, fibreglass would be a better choice.
I reckon building yourself a sheetmetal roller out of salvaged materials would be pretty useful for a few of the projects you do including this one. In fact, building all manner of workshop machines out of recycled pieces of cast aside tech would be a great series.
For what you want to build (a ducted canal to move air quickly) I would take a different approach. In fact, you are looking for a centrifugal blower/extractor. They are smaller, more effective, and offer other important advantages over axial fans - like the one you've built. Their in- and outlets are already there, ready to be connected for whatever application you need it for, and one big advantage is that they can move not only clean air, but also air with various dust particles, or even toxic gases. In an axial fan, you can't really do it, unless ou want to ruin the motor, as the air passes through it. That's why centrifugal blowers find applications in the industry, to pull out or blow the air. But anyway, thanks a lot for another great video. I love watching your vids.
Concrete form tube might do the trick for a pre-built/cheap tube. I think that this project would work quite well as an air displacement system; during hot summer days, pull cooler air into the house in the early morning then close up the house before it gets hot. Might even be useful for drying out damp basements or large amounts of water soaked into carpet. You could also use it next to a wood burning stove in a garage.
Wow using duct tape on an actual duct. Maybe the first time I have ever seen it done.
It looks like you're working in a castle dungeon.
Very good job and thank you for share this video
love this format of video, please keep these in rotation. fun build.
Looks good. If you get a larger prop and cut the tapered tips down a well as get them as close to the duct as possible you'll get much better efficiency.
That Duct Fan Setup, could move a RC Swamp Boat Pretty well, I would think... Don
Here's an idea I haven't seen made in a home shop before, venturi effect air duct or dust collector. A simple T intersection and a bit of experimentation for diameters and angles and you should have a very effective way to move airborne particles from one place to another while keeping your motor and propeller clean. I'm curious to see if a small motor like that could still provide enough force to maintain suction with a collection bag.
To get a tighter tolerance on your prop. you could make a D shaft. Cut your OD and ID the same way, then grind a flat section off your motor shaft. Next file a flat face on the ID of your prop. You will then need to make a press fit key out of wood, which will basically be a small block with a slight taper to push it in tight.
For prototyping work, I would look into what we refer to in the US as sonotubes (brand name). These are heavy-weight, thick-walled cardboard tubes that are used as forms for pouring concrete footings. Available in a variety of diameters/lengths at home improvement stores.
This will be perfect for my flying washing machine to utilize my commute time for laundry chores.
Love your videos, and fully appreciate your views on the modern world attitudes to the throw away behaviour.
That would make for a great stove canopy, considering the way I cook.
why not use the original washing machine drum, cutting out the back and then covering the holes?
You've got the makings of an RC hovercraft, it would be quite an adventurous project though.
Green Silver my thoughts exactly. HOVERCRAFT!!!
hes got the makings of a MOTOR with a propeller on it ONLY!!
Green Silver so true.
An electric hovercraft would be too heavy with the batteries it takes to run that motor, Fossil Fuel still rules supreme in Power to weight ratios, Even Lithium batteries don't even come close.. Electric stays on the ground, for now.
got your awrsome hoodie for xmas! got a lot of positive reactions...
Ladies and Gentleman - he's back! ;)
ref. the duct - I've seen blue Polyethylen barrels used in the food industry go on sale in places like Jawoll and other discount markets for round about 10-15 euros. I use them to catch rainwater off the roof and for composting.
Please put a bigger Propeller on this Motor and make it fly.
Your English is fantastic. Good luck with this project.
You might be able to get a prop-shaft adapter. The back of these are a collet which fit the prop-shaft, whilst the front is a threaded rod and spinner. When the spinner is tightened it also tightens the collet onto the prop-shaft.
You’ve got the fuselage completed, now fabricate some wings, the undercarriage and a yoke - and you have yourself a home built areo-plane!
Just kidding man...
This looks like a GREAT application for an attic exhaust ventilator. GENIUS way to re-purpose a washing machine motor!
For ducting, maybe use the round "Sonotube" brand concrete forms from Lowes / Home Depot. They start at 6" and go up to 36" diameter. Quikcrete's "Quik-Tube" is another brand they might have available.
Exactly, You can coat it with many layers of Fiberglass if you need extra strength and water proofing. Quick n easy.
You might be better off using one of the larger propellers and trimming the end square for maximum efficiency. If you look at your propeller you'll see the ends are contoured to allow the air to smoothly roll off them but in a duct fan that just allows more of a gap where you should be making the highest velocity air.
thread out the shaft and make a threaded insert instead of cotter pin which will shear and probably shatter propeller
tonymengela - yes, it will fail catastrophically. The forces on propellers are immense, and universal washing machine motors can run at very high speeds.
you have cool projects , effected well , good narration
as for suggestion for the duct , yes plastic pails come in those sizes as well as some of the plastic road drainage pipe . metal pails solvents come in
As I commented on your previous video, making a snow cannon wouldn't require more than spraying water in front of the propeller.
To attach the prop, bore the center hole in the prop to the correct size, but only go 3/4 of the way through. Then drill and tap a hole on the end of the motor shaft. Slide the prop on and bolt the end then you will have a very solid connection. You would probably want to use loctite or something similar on the bolt to keep it from backing out.
Very cool project! Wind tunnels are epic stuff!
Looks like you can turn it into a miniature wind tunnel.
I learned about meaning of the 2 serial numbers related to propeller - size & theoretical length covered for each rotation !
I'd love to see you make a small wind tunnel.
Don't waste your time. Find a furnace squirrel cafe blower. HVAC Companies throw perfectly good ones away every day.
Danny Boy - he just did
yes, a wind tunnel, but with one end having a removable section containing a lattice of clothes dryer heating coils so it can be used to heat your shop in winter.
Also, I have a big favor to ask; could you try to make a universal motor where instead of brushes there are electromagnets, hence powering the commutator with induction? I would make one myself if I had the supplies, and I don't expect you to either, but I might as well share the idea incase I don't get around to it
Nice job harnessing power from that motor.
hello, I was very interested in your project regarding the duct and you asked for comments to that effect, I would like to suggest copper water storage cylinders would be very effective, just cut both ends and that is all you need. These are being removed regularly by plumbers as new heating systems are installed, I have recently used one for a collecting saw dust from my workshop with a vacuum motor. good luck
You should use that fan creation for maybe a Whirl pool creator or maybe a water powered electricity generator
Hi from Argentina
Nice video
i can't believe i've watched several of these videos... very interesting.
17:59 Why you do not use the tub barrel from the washing machine or a dryer?
Looks like the perfect thing to vent some hydroponic grow rooms.
Dude! you are awesome.. very inspirational.. will have to keep eye on your creations thanks for sharing : )
to get the gear off the shaft of the motor, if you use a normal grinding disc, and just keep on grinding threw the gear, you will get to a point where its so thin it glows red. At that point when you have done that all the way along, the gear will snap open and will be easily pulled off the shaft. That is how i get bearing cases off shafts at work!
HTH
Avtovaz21057 What he said plus put some cooking foil over the motor to stop grinding dust getting into the windings.
It may take a bit of machining but you should install a prop hub to mount the prop to the motor. The hub would slide on the shaft and be pinned in place with a flange on the back side that the prop would rest against keeping it square to the shaft. Then the shaft would protrude through the hub and prop with a threaded end allowing you to bolt the prop one easily. However the shaft you have may need to be extended and threaded on the end.
good work, this would be a good project for a mini wind tunnel to test items for wind turbulences. you may need to fit a small wind meter and smoke machine. may be use a old 210lt shipping barrel cut both side off or one depends on which one you get as the duct cheaper and faster. thanks for sharing.
nice job, I was thinking about something very similar, mine was for a homemade drone the fly it to the grocery store, load, then return, mine would hover about 6ft high attached to a tow bar towing the weight instead of carrying it, setup with relays for obstacles the drone would drop to ensure a signal maybe using a little follow drone, lots of ideas. I've been collecting shop vac motors, leaf blower motors and others to find the right 1 for the job.
Maybe use a "pusher prop" of the same size. In its current configuration - relative to RC Duct-ed fans - the motor side of the fan directs air to the prop side of the fan. Also another improvement would be to buy the larger prop and cut it to the duct with as little tolerance as possible for better efficiency and more thrust. Thanks for the video!
Maybe build a hovercraft?
One strategy for attaching the propeller, perhaps more permanently, might be to form a hub for the propeller out of steel or delrin with holes for bolts through the central part of the propeller parallel to the axis of the motor shaft and a plate on the other side to distribute the load. The other side of the hub could be bored to fit over the motor shaft, and a tightly fitting shear pin of some sort could be used to secure it to the shaft. The advantage of this set-up (I think) is that while a slightly loose steel cotter pin going through wood would tend to chew up and gouge the wooden hole over time, a tightly fitting steel pin going through a steel hub would be much more durable.
You could get the larger propeller with the bigger hub, then trim the blades down. You do not need the pointed ends if you are using a duct and can use "bullnose" props without a loss of efficiency, and you can get the stronger hub without increasing the overall size of the assembly
Ps your channel is very well made and I enjoy it very much!! Thank you and keep up the good work!!
In a previous vid you were cocerned about motor speed runaway and the effects that has on the bearings and brushes. Actually the main fail point i've found is that the windings of the rotor fly out and touch the stator and thus burn out. However if you have a reasonably matched load like a propellor you will find that it will self limit easily because the load/ speed curve is not linear but exponential.
Another use would be a wind tunnel for development of model airplanes. Great work.
the motor has two wired on the back. Most probably a tacometer. So just hook and arduino to a mosfet via a totem pole, hook the tacometer to an intertupt pin, count the time between pulses or the number of pulses in one second and add the pid library to regulate the mosfet with a pwm signal.
The motor most probably wont start at very low duty cicle so check where does it start and add that to the output of the pid controller. then just use PD or PID if you want a more precise speed.
you could use the ducted fan as fume extractor, or you could use the motor as power drill/saw/mill.
Definitely use it to power either a raft or a light weight automobile - especially since you already built a protective shroud for it.
You could try sonotubes for a cheap duct. im not sure what they are called in germany but they are the thick strong cardboard tubes used for pouring round concrete columns. they can be bought at hardware stores but not sure if the diameter would be wide enough. you could use gakvanized culvert steel as well, and that is quite large diameter, also very strong.
I had an idea for a cheap duct, drum shells for a drum kit.. they have a large range of sizes and can be brought very cheap second hand if you dont buy a premium brand.
thanks for the videos! :)
you could use a clothes dryer drum for a duct. drum would be very similar to what you have built. also make some wide channel to mount the motor too that spans the diameter inside the drum. you then could use a belt and two pulleys to drive a prop really fast! a shafts that has bearings to use for a prop shaft might be hard to come by. you could use a motor similar to the one you are using as a prop shaft, they are not too hard to find. I wonder if a guy did that, would there be a way to extract the generated voltage off the prop motor (motor used as guide for propeller) to help drive the actual motor doing the work? making it semi/self- efficient? I'm dreaming I know "easier said than done" as we say in the states. cheers! love the video!
Look for US-52 controllers, they're cheap and work good. They allow the motor to maintain a constant speed even when varying the load. I use one of them for my homemade lathe. I don't know if it would be ideal for this application as it reduces the top speed a bit but it might work.
Might be a good vent motor if you are in a room and do stuff like welding, plasma cutting or cutting metal with a blowtorch. It seems this thing moves quite an amount of air, so it could probably a viable fume extractor for these applications.
In order to blow oxygen into a wood furnace, it's probably already too big with that propeller (and moves too much air), except if you have a really, really big wood furnace (maybe the size of a 1-car-garage?)...
First thought is...extreme blacksmithing!
For a pre-made and inexpensive duct you could try Home Depot in the US. By the brand name "Quik-Krete" I believe. It's a form for concrete used in construction generally. A friend and I created a telescope with a 10 inch mirror that could resolve the eye of Jupiter and rings of Saturn. We used a 12 inch tube approximately 4 feet long, but if memory serves, they have larger diameters.
I wonder if 4 of these would make a strong enough drone to lift a human...
I bet you can use some math to check.
the problem in figuring it out with math is that I'd have to estimate the thrust output. Either that, or build one myself and measure it.
Also, we have to take into account the extras that are needed to make the thing fly. Things like a chair to hold the person, batteries to power the motors, wires, controls, panels, etc. Plus, the strength needed may not be divided evenly between the motors as load balance, wind conditions, and other factors come into play.
I'd say, to be safe, if 2 of them can lift a human easily then 4 of them could work as a human sized drone. Otherwise, you'd run into a lot of issues.
+FlipFlopGaming +FlipFlopGaming I thought what you meant was to lift a human in the style of those wind tunnels that let you "fly". Since it's already done, there would've been information on how much thrust and all that you should use. An actual "jetpack" sure would need a lot of work.
Oh, I hadn't even thought of the wind tunnel "sky diving" thing. That stuff is cool, but I seriously doubt even 4 of them would come close. There is info on how much thrust you would need, but it still doesn't tell me how much thrust this ducted fan outputs.
+FlipFlopGaming That's up to our Inventor here to find out and tell us since he's probably done tests on 220v by now.
Make one out of a vacuum cleaner motor. They run much faster and are much lighter. They move a frightening amount of air.
for the ducted effect you should have closer tolerance the prop tips should be very close to the enclosure. also to mount the prop you can get a prop adapter collet . 8mm shafts motors are common on for these props. the prop manufacturer will sell them to suit but you can search them easily on the internet
I had no idea Arnie was so versatile.
That would be an excellent shop fan.
How about a small electric airboat? It would be great! And to control the speed, couldn't you control the voltage?
MC's Creations you can only control three phase motors
maybe make a fume extractor for welding
I guess you are building a mini wind tunnel to test paper plane aerodynamics ^^
HI
Iwas tinking,
Can't you put some sort of heating element inside the duct so that the air will blow on it.
You could use this to dry clothes faster, for example.
Also coud you convert this motor so that you could make a powerful electric bike?
i would really like to see if that would be possible.
You should take 8-12 of these ducted washer motors and make a manned drone with them. I have a feeling they will provide plenty of lift for flight.
Excellent you are really creative
he is the best electronic/engineer guy i has ever seen!
You asked for suggestions on attaching the prop. How about a helicoil and set screw? No need to drill out motor shaft. Drill hole in prop in one location. Insert helicoil. Insert screw.
It would be cool to see this in a hobby plane and see how fast you can make it go
This experiment is the reason I subscribed..
You need to go back to it and see how much thrust you can get.and the power consumption..
After that blast the motor with high voltage DC Resonance frequency from 20,000hz to 100,000hz and see what happends and measure the power consumed..
You may find it revs up and uses almost nothing.
Suggest 100-600v.
Use steel oil buckets for duct. Also you could drill and tap the motor shaft to attach the propeller with a bolt and washers. Size the bolt to fit snugly in the proprller bore.
Nice video, But Propellers can be *extremely dangerous* at those RPM's. I think you should learn more about "Wing Tip Speed" . It's very easy for the tip (ends) to reach the speed of sound. (approx. 640 mph) If that happens, The Prop will disintegrate instantly.. It creates a mini sonic BOOM at the tip only, which travels down the length of the prop. The little wire screen guard, won't stop a chard of wood, traveling at the speed of sound.. The tips travel faster than the rest of the prop. *DO THE MATH* , Please, it could kill ya. PDQ. We like your videos. stick around a little longer. :) ..
Out of curiosity, did you try canned air or even liquid nitrogen with a pulley remover? Heating it up only makes it harder to remove, because the metal expands.
Useful in painting - I did efface an compressor cause of the same room undertaking.
Be good to see this stuck on a boat and possibly make it remote controlled.
You should try to make a hydrogen/oxygen heating torch. You wouldn't be able to weld, due to hydrogen embrittlement, but if you do the math you could find a way to heat the metal without producing too much excess hydrogen. This would be so you could run the torch in your basement and get a large heat output
Hey, wow. Next project: A full size copy of the Wright flyer...using a (refurbished) washing machine motor! har!
This ducted propeller may be a good tool to dry or vent cellars, halls, rooms and other spaces inside buildings. For example: for getting moisture out of a cellar in less time than conventional venting fans would do that or for venting a whole room rapidly during a stinky paint job or similar situation. One question though: wouldn't it push more air with a different kind of propeller (much wider blades and three or four of them)? I'm not into aerodynamics part of mechanics so if soneone would be so kind to explain... :)
For securing the propeller you could tapper the hole on the shaft then put a screw and a nut on the propeller.
A funny (but useless) thing you can do is trying to dry clothes with your washing machine motor ^^
Or maybe you could do a jig that would allow you to test how much thrust it has (something like a rollerskate secured so it rolls only straight and attached to a newtonmeter)
I like to use roll pins instead of split pins, It is tidier as they dont poke out, The are also tighter as the are friction/srping fit.
bohrout :D you really made my day!! (for the English guys, it means bohren=drilling) nice channel tho, one of my favs! watching from Schleswig-Holstein. ;) keep it up :)
Propellers of greater pitch probably won't bring a lot of benefit. The props basically are little wings, that generate lift. In this setup as propeller, the lift is just used for pulling whatever contains the engine, obviously.
Wings will stall at a certain angle of attack, meaning the angle of the air hitting the nose of the wing and the centreline of the wing. Usually, that stall angle will be around 10° to 20°.
With a propeller, the angle of the air hitting the leading edge of the propeller blade, will be a vector sum of the velocity of the (usually) aircraft and the circumference speed of the propeller (angular velocity times the radius of propeller (when considering the tip. the bits closer to the axle travel slower, obviously, thus have different angle of attack than the tips at the same airspeed of the vessel/craft/thing. That is why propellerblades are twisted from centre to tip.))
Now the faster the vessel/craft/thing moves, the lower this angle gets. As wings produce greater lift the greater the angle of attack is, this speed component will cost you thrust with a propeller. A propeller with a great pitch built in will stall more easily at low speeds, reduce rpms, but still deliver decent thrust at higher speeds whereas a prop of lower pitch will give good thrust at low airspeed, but have the engine screaming and potentially overspeeding at higher airspeeds.
That's what the 10 in 16-10 is for: This is a fairly low pitch propeller, good for low speed. My guess would be, that, in a model airplane, an engine of some 20 to 30 ccm and around 2 to 3 hp would match it faily well. Something like a Piper Super Cub model of 8ft wingspan might work well with those, I guess. Probably well capable of glider towing, that kind of uses.
Depending on how much Oomph! you motor has to offer, maybe it would be more helpfull to get a three blade prop if the one you use fails to get all the engine power converted to thrust. The lower pitch seems to be a good choice though, as you will hardly need to cope with having to produce thrust while traveling at 100mph or above. By the way, I remember you had that cunning old lathe.Would it be a lot of work spinning a decent hub that will hold the shaft of the engine neatly? Your cotter pin hole is there already, could be used for a screw as well, and you could mount the prop nicely on the engine thus.
If you wonder what to do with it, just bolt it to your bike! Feed it from a battery through a 220V converter, and off you go, like Lone Star's space camper on The Schwartz. ^^)
Imagine getting a brushless washing machine motor! ;)
This is a propeller designed to operate best in the optimum power range of a gasoline engine. Electric motors develop torque throughout their speed range; a good prop for an electric motor would be quite different from this one.
If you (trying to explain without knowing the word) "slant" or make the intake as a funnel, the duct will work better, taking more air in.
You can use sonotube (concrete pillar continually spiralled form) It's heavy-duty cardboard but you could paint the interior with urethane or something else to strengthen/smooth the inside
if you had a lathe you could've used the pulley to machine a flange with a thread on it to tighten down the propeller properly. i would also recommend a bolt and nut instead of the "splint", those things wear the wood out very quickly and are not recommended to transfer torque at all.