Jeep Wrangler JK Fuel Injector Replacement - 3.8L
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- Опубликовано: 22 апр 2020
- This video is an in-depth tutorial of replacing and inspecting fuel injectors on a Wrangler JK with the 3.8L motor. This applies to all JK's 2007 through and including 2011.
This is the first of a two-part series, the follow up video, replacing the fuel pump assembly can be found here: • Wrangler JK Fuel Pump ...
UPDATE 10/17/2020: I finally got around to completely replacing all 6 injectors. I used the MOPAR branded injectors, 4861667AA. The codes are GONE. If you are replacing injectors, do NOT use Bosch 0280158119, which is what the previous owner installed. 
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I used this video to help me replace my injectors after it through a P0205, if I recall. Now I'm chasing a rich condition, too. Someday this thing will run right!
Thank you for such an in depth video. This really helped me replace my injector. Without your tutorial I wouldn’t have felt comfortable doing it myself.
Glad to hear it helped!
This video inspired me to do it myself. And it worked! Thank you!
A gear wrench was the trick for the passenger rear intake bolt.
Glad it helped!
Excellent video, almost an exact narration of the AllDataDIY service procedure. I just did this job this weekend and this video was a great help.
Thanks!
very thorough and great explanations, thank you for your time!
Thanks! glad it helped
Nice video (other than 1st time nervous mistakes -- went from 6 to 8 bolts on upper intake🤔). FYI: No need to remove throttle body or MAP sensor to remove upper intake. Keep up the good work. I feel your pain about non OEM fasteners, just did a 3.8 in a 2009 -- dealer sent it back to owner in pieces after denied lifetime warranty repair (missing pieces and extra pieces from some other vehicle!).
Thank you for this really in depth video! I had a #4 injector die (common I guess) and this video was really perfect to get the job done. The torque settings were really a godsend. Thank you again so much!!!!!
Fantastic! Glad the torque specs helped. Every time I replace an upper manifold or EGR I wince when getting close to the "click". Always afraid of snapping one off (which I've done...)
Thank you so much ! I have a random misfire and searched high and low on how to get fuel injectors out!!!!
Glad to help!
P6⁶66
Turned out it was my pcm. Hows the gas mileage? It seemed decent prior to the even switch and now it sucks I get like 218. But I do have a lift and 35s and my old pcm I used a chip so I guess it did help?
That was a well made video, thanks for your effort and details
Thanks!
super detailed video- made this job easy thanks
Great to hear!
Is there a fuel return line? This video is helping a lot with my fuel cell install but I’m not sure how many lines I’ll need to run to the intake. Thank you for making this video so in-depth!
Not on this motor... just one line into the fuel rail.
Great video. About to tackle this myself. Cylinder 3 misfire and open injector code..
Good luck! hope the video helps
Great video man. I think I'm gonna have to replace mine. I was getting 8 miles to the gallon. I put some fuel injector cleaner in my gas and my mpg started to slowly go up, but nowhere near what it used to be.
Good luck!
I put seafoam in my tank and got an amazingly 35-55 miles per full tank. I went from 232 per full tank till gas lite comes on to 262-272 30-40 extra miles. And sometimes even 285-300 but not consistently.
I did it!!! 😮 Thanks for the video!
Awesome, congrats!!
Thank you and great video very well done ! I have to change #4 injector on my 08 jeep.
weird, i took my 2010 jeep to get a diagnosis and they told me #4 injector as well.
Mine is the #4 as well. Odd. I’ll be replacing it tomorrow when it comes in. ‘08 Rubicon Unlimited
I replaced all 6 injectors and the light is still on. Bought a fixd scanner to check it again
@@seahorsefencing just for the #4?
I replaced one of the injectors a couple of years ago. Just last night, I had another failed one. This time I'm replacing all 6 for peace of mind.
One of the best automotive repair videos I ever saw. I do have a question though, why did you disconnect the EGR valve on the bottom?
Thanks! The reason for removing the EGR valve tube at the bottom is because if you don't, then the tube is in your way for the remainder of the process (like, when trying to remove the fuel rail). You may get away without removing it, but it makes the other stuff easier. To be clear, I just removed the tube from the valve which isn't too bad once you remove the fender liner... removing the valve itself is a real pain. I've done that replacement as well and the factory service manual procedure is not the best way in my opinion.
@@austin.gresham Couple things, great video - I'd recommend removing the battery tray in order to access the EGR - it's an easy removal of the tray once you release the power steering reservoir, then the EGR is very accessible with a 1/4" ratchet and a 10 mm socket.
@@JDKeith Great tip, thanks!
Outstanding video.
Thanks!
What a great video. Thanks.
Thanks!
Doing this exact job except cleaning the injectors and reinstalling. Those freakin' clips though!!! $20 each?!?!? That's absurd. Great informative video.
You should be able to get a kit with the entire set for less than $10. Try NAPA or Rock Auto... MOPAR is crazy expensive!
@@austin.gresham Thanks Austin!
I have a cylinder 3 misfire, already replaced spark plugs, wiring harness and coil pack. Injector is next since I am still getting the error. Mine is a 2007. Do you think it is a good idea to take them all out and replace the o rings and clamps? I figure if it is out then I might as well.
One more question if you don’t mind. When I start my engine and start driving, it sounds like fluid is sloshing around the engine bay from one side to another. I recently replaced the radiator with a used radiator. I also replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap. The sloshing sound still happens and coolant is going into the overflow and spilling out all over. The used radiator was free from a friend, could that be the problem? Should I replace it again with a new radiator or do you have any other thoughts on what could be causing that sloshing liquid sound? Thanks in advance! Great video!
I would while you're in there, but it's expensive!
great vid
Austin, is that a DIY fuel gauge setup, or one you purchased ? I see that your pump side line has a different type quick disconnect vs. what mine has, so don't think the 6539A will work in my case. Need to check my 2011 JK myself, but don't want to spend a ton of money on the pressure decay tester that the dealership uses. Thanks !
If you have the 3.8L, then the 6539A is the right one. The actual gauge is from Amazon and has the Schrader fitting. Don't buy the whole decay setup. The adapter is $40 from "Mopar essentials" and the pressure gauge was less than $30. If you're trying to diagnose a simple pressure drop, that should be all you need. If you want to find out if it's the fuel rail (injector) side or the pump, use a clamp on one side of the gauge and save some coin!
Great video, thanks! Would it be possible to just replace the lower o-ring on the injector without relieving fuel pressure? If not, do you just remove fuel pump relay and crank it over and let it run until it stalls?
Hi Jon. No, in order to get to the O-ring you have to get the injector out. To do that the fuel rail has to come out with all 6 injectors, so definitely want to relieve the pressure first. As far as relieving pressure, yes, but I did it slightly differently: I cranked it, then pulled the fuse and let it stall. Without the fuse, mine wouldn't even attempt to crank (but could be because it sat overnight and the pressure was already out). In any case, wrap a shop towel around the disconnect on the fuel rail and wear glasses in case it sprays. Even 10 psi will cause some "pop" when you disconnect them.
@@austin.gresham Excellent thank you! To re-pressurize the system, I assume you simply cycle the key a few times? Edit: just realized you answered both of these questions in your fuel pump replacement video - so nevermind!
Your video was very informative. Thanks
I was thinking if you are showing a rich mixture if maybe your oxygen sensor could be bad (reading a false condition) Did your fuel mileage drop on you?
Just asking to learn.
The O2 sensors are a great place to look, especially before tearing down the top half of the motor to replace the injectors. In this case, the rich condition was from both banks, and usually O2 sensors don't go bad at the same time. Even with that, I had replaced both upstream O2 sensors already because it was a less-expensive option.
Great job, nice video of how to do that. Not alot of selfies. Just the facts....
Yeah, more content less "fluff" is my motto 🤣 No one wants to see my face anyway!
This is an amazing video. How did people do anything before RUclips and Google Maps? That's my question. Imagine having to figure something like this out before the internet.
Agreed! I think about that all the time. That's why I created these videos. Growing up wrenching CJ's with my dad, it was all trial-and-error, or meeting someone in a Jeep club that had done it before. Old school...
Hi thanks so much for the video, can you tell me about how much it should be to get all of my fuel injectors replaced along with Spark plugs? thanks so much
If you mean DIY, the MOPAR injectors are about $70 a piece (and worth it) and spark plugs are around $10 each. So, a grand total of $480 before tax. If you're asking how much a mechanic would charge, that is very dependent on where you live. Rates are close to $100-$150 per hour in most places (but that's not a guarantee).
Do you know if this is pretty similar to the 3.6 pentastar. I have a 2015 with a misfire and need to change a fuel injector. Wish I could find this good of a video on my year and model. Great work. Thanks in advance
It is different. You have to perform basically the same series of steps, but the parts are not the same and the bolt patterns are much different. I saw a video for the 3.6 on RUclips but it was for a Dodge Journey. Same engine, but mounted transverse. It may help... I have not had a need to do any work on the 3.6 yet, but when I do I'll post any tutorials.
@@austin.gresham thank you much
You don't happen to have a shop or be in cali? I need a head gasket and possibly furl tank & injector replacement as well...
Sorry, in Ohio!
I have a 2008 Jeep Wrangler JK 3.8L. I had TDCs P0300, P0350 misfire. Recently installed new battery and starter. Followed your video and installed and low end injectors. After replacement got codes P0171 (bank 1) and P0174 (bank 2) too lean. Did pump pressure test indicates 58psi running and drops off rapidly to 35 and continues to decay. Ran again and clamped off inlet, pressure dropped to 45psi and continued to decay. Thinking about tearing it down again and replacing injectors with OEM injectors. I know I should down the pressure test in the beginning. Anyway what are your thoughts. John
I would go with OEM injectors for sure. Fixed my issue after battling for quite some time. Too lean could be the fuel pump, though. If pressure on the fuel rail side decays that's usually a leaking injector which would likely result in a rich condition, not lean. But... if only 1 injector is leaking then the ECU could be trying to overcompensate and leaning out the other ones. If you have a reader that can show O2 readings that may help. Good luck!
@@austin.gresham Fuel pump pressure looked good at idle and higher power settings, concerned about the pressure drop after engine shutdown. FYI, prior to this I changed coil, plugs wires and plugs. Went after the injectors because of P0330 & P0305 misfire. Also codes P0171 & P0174 did not report until I R&R the injectors. So the next step is install OEM injectors. Prior to that I’ll check on a reader to show 02. Will let you how this turns out.
@@johngarrard3374 This motor does not handle sub-par injectors well. A good set of OEM's should fix it. Just takes a few more hours on a Saturday! Just a quick note on the pressure decay. I learned the hard way to make absolutely sure you clamp the hose TIGHT to prevent leakage on the pump side that makes it look like it's an injector leak. Also, for reference a good pump/injector should hold pressure at about 56psi or more for at least 15-20 min. After about 30 min, 45 psi is not uncommon on the 3.8's I've seen.
@@austin.gresham Thanks for the additions all info. Going to R&R the injectors with OEM injectors next weekend. BTW, I’m the original owner of my Jeep and she just turned 206,000 miles.
@@austin.gresham I installed 6 AUS Remanufactured OEM injectors. All my problems have been resolved.
What is the part number for the gaskets? Autozone and Advanced didn't have them for me.
Not sure, I got mine from NAPA. The part number will vary by mfg (Felpro, Eichlin, etc)
My bolts that connect the EGR tube to the EGR valve are giving me issues. Corrosion over time has locked them up pretty tight. Do you have any tips? Working thru the wheel well is better but still a tight space. Otherwise, I really appreciate this video.
Hey Tony! First, buy some good penetrating oil and soak the bolts as much as you can... Second, a question: do you have an auto or manual transmission?
@@austin.gresham Auto transmission
@@tonykondek5713 Ok, now that I asked that, I realized that doesn't matter. I was thinking of the bolts from the EGR valve to the motor, sorry! If you even have to replace the valve, I've got some hints on that. So, for the EGR tube bolts, an impact wrench and penetrating oil are going to be your best friends...
You also might be able to get away with removing the EGR tube bolts on the manifold and the stud bolt that holds it near the back of the manifold near the firewall that also holds the retainer clip for the fuel line and EVAP. You might get just enough slack to move it out of the way and slide the upper manifold out...
@@austin.gresham I may try that but if I have good luck with the EGR I may replace that too. Can you clean up an EGR valve? I have seen a code on this in the past but it comes and goes.
I should have watched this to the end. What happens if you leave the injectors on more than 5 seconds while running brake fluid to clean them? Have I melted the solenoid inside? Thank you for posting this
Sorry to hear that. If the injector still responds to short voltage bursts you should be fine. If you're concerned you may just want to replace it.
@@austin.gresham thank you for answering!
I tested the resistance on them and they checked out fine. I forgot the specs for the ambient temperature. They all tested at 12.5 ohms except 2 at 12.7 ohms. Ambient temperature was mid 60s Fahrenheit.
Close call!
Excellent in every way! I could have used your videos years ago. I have a 3.8L with lean codes both banks, ~+22%, I am having hard time finding that mopar part anywhere to check pressure. I am thinking of just checking the rails and leaning the injectors, or maybe just start prepping for the fuel pump replacement, your other great video. There are no air leaks or exhaust leaks that I can find after smoke tests. I am having a hard time making sense of the trims, any chance you can do a video showing the fuel trims, maybe too late to show a before and after, watching all of your videos now.
If I run into another lean/rich issue I'll definitely make a video. The MOPAR part is on a website called moparessentialtools.com. It's not cheap, but I tried doing a DIY version and by the time I priced all the adapters, connectors and hose it was almost the same price and I didn't have to build it!
Also, a really sneaky place you can get an air leak is the PCV valve... hard to track down because it's not exposed where you would see it with a smoke test. You can disconnect the PCV hose from top of the manifold and put something over the opening (that won't get sucked into the manifold). You can even drive it that way for a bit to test it out. I've used a cap from a small bottle and duct taped it on for a day or two.
thanks Austin, good tips, I did replace the PCV and then tried capping it off to the manifold, but no improvement. I tried smoking again but still didn't see any leaks and still reading 28 to 32% lean both banks, so finally got the adapter and just checked fuel pressure and its ~32 psi running which is way low from what I understand. All this seems to be making sense. Time to study your fuel pump replacement video.
@@ht9565 Oh yeah, that's almost half of what it should be. 58 psi +/- 2 is within spec. Good luck on the fuel pump!
I did install the new fuel pump and that did the trick for my lean codes due to lack of fuel. I am still getting an extended crank issue when it sits for ~1hr after being driven (warmed up engine). I am starting to think that issue is related to my fuel injectors leaking and possibly flooding the engine somehow. I plan to go back and test the pressure again. In the video you said you "clamped" the hose from the tank and the pressure dropped faster, meaning the injectors were leaking. How did you clamp the hose? I might try to add an inline valve so I can cut off flow to test. I don't get any "rich codes" and trims are near zero now, but I am still thinking its related to my injectors somehow.
Wasn't able to test mine. The little fitting with my kit wouldn't seal when snapped into the female end of fuel line. Anyone know where I can find one that fits the 2007 jk?
I tried to piece together the right adapters/fittings/hoses on my own to make one, but it ended up being almost the same price as the MOPAR kit (6539A). It's about $40 online.
@@austin.gresham Thanks. I'll check that out.
If you just wanted to swap out a single injector based on the error code, do you still need to pop out all 6 ? I had one replaced already, now a different one went bad on the code. Debating if I swap 5 or 1...
If you mean, "do you still have to remove the entire fuel rail to replace one injector?" The answer is yes. If you're asking should you just go ahead and replace the remaining 5, that's a matter of cost (at least for me). One injector is roughly $80, five is $400. Do you know what caused the first one to fail? You may have another problem further down the fuel delivery line (crappy fuel, bad filter, etc) that could be causing the injectors to fail. Replacing the injectors might be the most expensive option and you may have to do it again if the "real" problem isn't fixed first. You could also try a fuel additive that cleans the injectors as a first step. Not knowing what you've already done or what codes you are seeing, that's the best advice I can offer. Good luck!
@@austin.gresham The first failure was P0203, now I have a P0205. The first was fixed at a dealer, they just replaced the injector and it ran okay after they fixed injector 3 for about 4-6 months. Now injector 5 is failing with "injector circuit open". I have used BG44k 2-3 times to try and clear up the misfire and the injector code, but it's still not firing properly.
@@ronwahler4004 Got it. So yours is an electrical failure, so cleaning the injector (as you've seen) won't help. Normally I would start by testing the connector shorted to ground/voltage and then replace the injector if the wiring checks out. In your case, since you've already had one injector fail, I would replace the cylinder 5 injector. It's also likely that if two have failed, the others might as well. If you're going to DIY and you don't mind the labor, I would just do one (and it's cheaper) and cross my fingers that the others don't go out. If you want to just "get 'er done" then I would replace the remaining 5, but it's going to cost you more without knowing if the others were ever going to go bad... If you're going to have a dealer do it, I would weigh the cost difference between the two... it's a coin toss and little luck.
@@austin.gresham thanks, I will DIY on this, your video was real helpful in wanting to try it. I just replaced the radiator a few days ago....
How do I figure out the cylinder numbers , is there a good diagram someplace ?
What brand fuel pressure gauge Set up great video. Only ones I’ve found are for Schroeder valves
The gauge set was from Amazon. Just one of the universal sets with the Shrader valve. The expensive component is the MOPAR fuel rail adapter. I tried to build one using off the shelf connectors and it ended up being the same price.
@@austin.gresham ok thanks dose Amazon sell mopar adapter?
@@sheerwillsurvival2064 No, you have to buy it from moparessentialtools.com
@@austin.gresham thanks that’s what I thought 👍🏻👊🏻
Is there a smoke machine that you would use to test for evap leaks ?
I use a homemade smoke machine using a glass jar, soldering iron and baby oil (you can find the plans on YT). You just have to be VERY careful when smoking the EVAP since there are fuel vapors in the lines, but I've done it a couple of times.
I don't have any engine codes or anything.. I just got my first wrangler 07. Its in pretty clean shape but the fuel mileage seems terrible and it doesn't seem to have very snappy throttle response.
For the amount of fuel burning, I would expect this thing to be 400 hp but its not lol.
Any ideas where to start on this? I going to get the spark plugs changed, just waiting for the winter to end since I have no garage and Im in northern ontairo.. It just rolled over 115,000 KM and I have no idea what the 2 previous owners did to it. The last owners were in their 70s, garage stored it for 7 years, never drove in winter etc, I think they put 9k on it in 7 or 8 years. All the mechanics who saw it are really impressed with the condition. I used to have an 09 colorado i5 which is similar gas mpg to this jeep 3.8 but I'm noticing Im having to fill it up quite a bit more often.. I run the premium gas to keep it ethanol free, it normally gives quite a bit better mpg and I have tested this on other vehicles and it is accurate to say that ethanol free fuel is better all around.
The jeep needed 4 ball joints for safety and I flushed the transmission fluid.. That's all i've done so far. I really need this jeep to last a long time and based off the no rust under neath, the body should get 10 more years easily.. Its almost like it just rolled off the factory floor a few years ago its in that good of shape.
That's an awesome find, Congrats! 71k miles is what mine had after 3 years 🤣. If you drive all highway miles, what mileage are you getting on a full tank? In my '08 I would be ecstatic with 340 when it was newer. That would be like 540 km on a full tank.
Throttle response was never the strong suit on these. If you want something snappier you'd need a "pedal commander" or the like.
@@austin.gresham I ordered a pedal commander after I made my first comment. The video for it was impressive enough to shell out the money for it.
I don't really know what the highway miles would be on this, its got 285/70/17, I downgraded the tires from 12.5/33/17 and I could tell right away the mpg improved and the ride was smoother. The steering was janky with the other tires and that seems to have improved as well.
On my next fill up Im going to reset the trip Odometer and just see what the kms are at by half a tank. Maybe thats not a super accurate way of doing it because some tanks seem bigger on the bottom half but I can at least ball park it. If I had to guess though it was probably 12 mpg on the 318s and maybe 15/16 now. It just blows my mind that such a weak engine burns so much fuel.. I think these 3.8s only have 200 hp if Im not mistaken.. I would absolutely love it if it had a ford eco boost twin turbo. My brothers f 150 gets incredible mpg on that 2.7 eco boost and I believe it puts up some crazy numbers 325 hp 400 lb torque..
There could be other factors like my gearing etc that is affecting things. Im just hoping the spark plugs will slow the rate of fuel burn a bit and I might have to look into new injectors possibly.
Ya I wish a mechanic like you could see this thing, its pristine for its age, really unbelievable.. which is what sold me on buying it.. That and the fact the used market is such a shit show. I was in a wreck back in nov, total write off and was in a bind to find another vehicle fast..
@@tjl8884 I will say that current MPG will be lower until maybe April when the stations switch back to summer gas. I've noticed these motors are very sensitive to the seasonal mix. 16 mpg right now seems about right, honestly, maybe just a little shy. Also depends on the tires (tread, inflation, etc)
As far as measuring when you're at a 1/2 tank - Don't 😉 It's definitely not balanced - you'll look like you're getting great mileage for the first half, then it will bomb. Try and burn a full tank to get an accurate reading. If you're brave enough, let it go until the "low fuel" light comes on, then drive another 20 miles (you should still have room to spare).
For the injectors - unless you're getting a rich/lean condition I would not replace them yet. The ECM controls the pulse width of the injectors by monitoring Air/Fuel ratios from the O2 sensors. Minor tolerances will be compensated for by the ECM. If you have a good meter you could look at fuel trims and see if they're running rich, but at the age of your motor you should be fine.
Spark plugs should last 100k miles - especially with the condition yours seems to be in - but it's a -relatively- cheap fix if you want to replace them.
@@austin.gresham You're right. I also think it might have something to do with warmer temps causing the volume to expand a bit which somehow makes it burn more efficient.
I got into watching vids on inventors trying to improve mpg and there was one design where the guy was running the fuel lines along a heat source to heat it up a bit to like 30 celsius or something, it was doubling his mpg. A lot of those videos from 2009 were removed though.. It was an old invention from the 1930s I believe and super crude like he was using the exhaust lines to somehow heat up the fuel lines somehow.
Another guy was using a water mister with those ultrsonic sound tech in it, he simply put it into some kind of mason jar so it would mist his fuel and directed it into his snowblower carb.. I think he said he ran it all winter on 8 oz's of fuel which is insane.. Im not sure how that would work with modern cars and I think some have tried and failed because it wasn't producing enough power.. There's probably a way to do it because a mist or fog of gas should ignite enough to push the cylinders down.. But Im not a mech or a scientist, just fascinated with it. Its probably more a problem with delivering enough of that gas mist fast enough
I never was running rich until I installed the new injectors and on cold start she stutters to start. I’m getting p0172 p0175 codes
I have had no luck with any injectors except the OEM MOPAR ones. If you used anything else, I'd swap them out.
what size is the fuel rail fitting? 1/4" 5/16" or 3/8" ?
5/16"
What about the micro filters.? Did they have micro filters?
No, the injectors do not have serviceable filters.
I purchased six Bosch 0280 158 119 injectors and just saw to not use. Is there a reason why? I am about to send them back and get Mopar. Please advise and thanks for the awesome video!
I read in other places that the Bosch are trash, to be blunt. I didn't believe it, but after swapping Bosch for MOPAR all my rich codes cleared. Something about the Bosch isn't within spec for the 3.8 JK. Spend the extra and get the MOPAR
@@austin.gresham Thank you so much, I am sending them back to rockauto today. I have never worked on vehicles before, but trying to "man up" and fix a 305 and 205 error code myself. Replaced the spark plugs, wires and coil pack with no joy. Its got 150k, so I'm figuring replace all the injectors, even though it could be an issue with wiring or electrical.
For a P0205 code, I would definitely start with the electrical connector on the injector: it could simply be loose. You can get to the connectors as soon as you remove the upper manifold. Unfortunately, cylinder 5 is in the back so you can't easily get to it any other way. Also look for frayed/melted wiring. Lastly, if you have a good multimeter and the right probe ends you can check continuity/resistance (shorting) from the PCM wiring harness to the injector harness. I would do all of that before replacing all 6 injectors.
@@austin.gresham Ok great!! I will start there then. I returned the injectors, and holding off on buying the mopars. I'm removing the fender well today. Taking resistance checks and looking for frays next. Hopefully by this weekend I will have this issue isolated.
@@austin.gresham finally got down to the injectors and removed them.. performing resistance checks on mopar factory injectors.. all read 12.5v across the leads except 5th cylinder fuel injector reads 12.8 to 13v. Next step... Replace all with mopar fuel injectors?
How different will this process be for a 2017?
The 3.6 Pentastar you have in the 2017 is a much different engine. The -basic- process is the same: intake/throttle body, upper manifold, fuel rail; but the process/bolts/connectors are much different. The 3.6 also has separate fuel rails for the 2 banks connected by a flexible fuel line. There are some good videos on the Pentastar out there, some of them are not for Wranglers, but the process is very similar.
Did you ever find a video for the pentastar 3.6?
How do I know which one is number 3?
If you are standing in front of the Jeep facing the engine, 1 is the closest on the left. Then 3, then 5. The right side is 2, 4, 6
What were the symptoms that prompted this repair?
Rich fuel codes on both banks. I did some pressure testing and thought it was the fuel pump leaking. After changing the pump, the system still lost pressure (injectors were leaking)
Did u find cause for rich code
I think it is the low-quality injectors the prior owner used. I am going to swap all 6 when I get a spare $800.
Did you find out what was causing your rich codes?
Hi Jeremy. Sorry for the delay in replying. I am convinced that the codes are being caused by the low-quality injectors installed by the prior owner. I'll be replacing all 6 when money allows. I've ruled out everything from the tank to the cylinder, except swapping those out...
Yes i ended up actually replacing all 6 injectors and it fixed my rich codes on both banks. The ones I removed where aftermarket one with a Chrysler emblem on them. I purchased factory Mopar ones from Rockauto for $71 each.
@@wosko59 That's great to hear! Gives me some hope. The ones in mine now are cheap Bosch you can only get on eBay for like $20 a piece. Rock Auto is also my go-to. Did you get the remans or new?
@@austin.gresham the ones on RA from Mopar are new and there actually $77.
How did you blow the fuel pressure? @ 18:30
I think what you're referring to is when I said "I blew the injector." If you go back to (ruclips.net/video/KSvZJ42X9GI/видео.html) 17:45 is where I show that one of the injectors was covered in fuel when I pulled out the fuel rail because the clip didn't hold it in when I did the pressure test earlier. If I misunderstood your question, let me know!
@@austin.gresham ahhh I see what you mean! I guess my question is, when removing the fuel line that leads to the fuel injectors; is there residual pressure, or should I expect it to squirt fuel ?
@@rickolascage_5650 There is definitely residual pressure. You can start the Jeep and pull the fuel pump fuse and it will stall out. You can also leave it overnight and most of the pressure bleeds out. I always wrap the fuel rail connector with a shop towel to keep any spray at bay, though, just in case. You'll get some fuel draining out of the tubes a little bit no matter what so the towel helps with that, too.
Oh ok so I’m never changing my injectors 😐
🍻