No prob they should have been thrown away. Never reuse the bearings because the old ones are scrap metal. Especially these as they are corroded in addition to being not spherical. Used bearings are ellipsoidal.
@JJ-jn5lr I understand where you are coming from. However, there is a few things I notice (as a bike mechanic) that could help. 1. There is no way to adjust hydraulic brakes like you do a cable brake. You can bleed them (usually makes them more responsive, but there is no adjusting). 2. Unless you have all the tools and knowledge to work on said brakes, do NOT try a bleed yourself. Your brakes won't work how they should and it's dangerous. 3. The crank falling off sucks but I've had it happen MANY times, on stuff I installed properly following all procedures and steps. It happens. It sucks. But sometimes it's not the installers fault (can be a host of other things, stripped bottom bracket is a common one, wrong thread pitch is another). Most places do their best to get you the best results possible, however I do suggest a true bike shop (only does bikes) vs a box store as they do not have properly trained mechanics. Hope this helps with your struggles
Had my 1989 Outrageous 18spd, for 15 years, my Sears Free Spirit 10spb for about 7, and my Giant 21spd, for 5..... All have required routine maintenance..... I don't see have your bikes don't last LoL
I just spray my 30yr old Raleigh Summit with wd40 - funny enough the pedals have been squeaking for a couple of years - I’ll just replace em with others off a scrapper bike.
I'm lucky to have a bike shop near my house that does good work for cheap. I've told the owner I worry he's not charging enough because I don't want him to go out of business. I popped some spokes on a bike I didn't buy from them. They replaced spokes and resealed for $6.00. installing new race face cranks and BB stuff... $45.00 too cheap for me to bother doing my own work.
I used to ride bmx in the 80s and 90s. I got a redline in 92. Loved the bike. One day i rode it through rain and mud. During a rainy summer. Loved the bike so much, i took it completely apart before winter. Cleaned every part and greased and oiled. It became something i did every 5 to 6 months. I still have the bike but its in my garage. Waiting for the next rider.
My Redline Series 3 was build from spares while doing repairs at a bike shop. Well I did buy the Sturmy-Archer drum brakes and Haro bars (The first Haro bars for a clamping stem) but most of the rest of the parts were "What do you want us to do with the old part?" "Eh, just toss 'em". It got converted to a mini-mountain bike with a double front and 6 speed rear freewheel. It resides in my basement. Last used when I was renting while working on my just bought house, 8 years ago.
i learnt how to repack a bendix two speed kickback with coaster very early on... lacing suntour three speeds into 20" rims... (sturmey sucked, little chains? always getting busted...) every bike was reclaimed rubbish, only real one i had was a free agent... got stolen. ironic the neighbours kid had the same one, but with the standard 1" headset, mine had the beefy one... so yeah. one of the early shimano disc brakes, absolute joke... lol. and yeah, you think back to various bits and pieces and kick yourself... like pulling teh old phones and radios and other strange "junk" apart... all hard to find and worth a mint for the right person... like that bendix kickback hub... which i do still have... somehwere. also theres a point that you gotta stop hanging onto old junk but why is it once you throw it out, the next day you NEED IT?
@@paradiselost9946 I just saw a meme on that bit about keeping something for 40 years "just in case" and then only needing it the week after you finally tossed it out.
Or just the same Number 2 grease. It works for anti seize, electrical connections, and even keeping power tools working way longer than you’d ever expect.
It's usually the EDM that doesn't belong in these vids that they use too, I love EDM and it's music production is like a swiss army knife, u can get any vibe out of it and most noises.
@rollinrat4850 Those xcpro pedals were so sweet. I make a point of stopping in small bike shops in small towns hoping for nos XCpro and XCpro comp stuff.
@rollinrat4850 That sounds like the kind of bike shop I would like. Many of my local shops refuse to sell used parts. I'm a scavenger! I like your style! :)
@rollinrat4850 Hey, that's cool! I actually have a Motiv Ground Pounder that I converted to single speed because I kept chewing through derailleurs. It's nearly indestructible, but I think it weighs 38 pounds! XD
With this type of unsealed pedal you have to do this at least once a year or maybe a couple times. With a sealed pedal like Race Face composites you'll be bringing your pedals over to your next bike without ever having service them.
1. Снять, разобрать, почистить, смазать и собрать иногда быстрее, чем выбрать и заказать новые; 2. Одни получают удовольствие от выбирания и покупки нового, другие наслаждаются процессом переборки.
Unloaded will always spin better dry since there's no grease and suction to interfere. Doesn't mean it'll protect anything at all though. That's why all those unloaded ceramic bottom bracket spin tests are nonsense.
@@Vermonsteredyes!! Thank you!! I couldn't have said it better. Once saw a railway bearing that barely spun when greased, but it would outlast an ungreased one by a long shot, obviously. Same principal applies to this pedal here (to the original commenter)
@@norbertnagy5514 Cycling, camping, offroading... (sigh). Everything I grew up doing has become an elitist activity except one: Fixing my own car is still cheap fun! :D
@@jamesgizasson yeah, well im just saying people here keep saying they dont fix something till it falls of, they seem both cheap and rich at the same time.
@@norbertnagy5514 Makes sense. I learned to fix my stuff because I couldn't afford to just buy new ones. Seems like a lost art now, and I'm only 35. X3
for those who noted it was spinning netter before - it was metal against metal so wearing fast - you want the pedal to spin well when you are pushing it which wont be the case with no lubrication and that metal/metal contact. - you dont want the pedal to spin too freely when you're not on it. its pretty bad for landing jumps
Used to have a motorcycle with ball bearings in the headstock ...then I found bikes with sealed bearings..oh the joy...no faffing around trying to place ball bearings around in a circle in grease..those sods were literally alive and would taunt you by jumping down the headstock 🤣..
Sealed bearings do eventually wear out but you can add more grease with a very thin needle. Poke it right in the middle of the seal and cover the hole with super glue.
@@paule4204agreed. In areas like pedals & headsets I don't see why cup & cone can't be the norm. They get minimal work and should be serviceable and not just replace in 6-12 months.
Why am I so fascinated with just a simple bike pedal 😂 I need to get out more I think but hey still a good video either way so well done mate great editing
@@ipsojure2137 or virtually free to maintain, it takes like 10 min to do. unless you are getting paid like 100 an hour, and that does not factor in the time to go get them from the store. it makes zero sense to buy new for the sake of greasing bearings.
I never understood why bicycle manufacturers don't add grease fittings/zergs to all moving parts that need grease. It's such a stupid thing to have to take everything apart for a simple grease job.
you dont have to take everything out like our little overachiever here. I also dont think that pedals need grease in the first place, idk what grease does but my pedals still work like new and I havent put a single bit of grease on them
You can use motor oil and a syringe with a bent needle to reach almost any place. Only an idiot will use grease on a part that is sealed with very little room for contamination. Grease provides highest protection from contamination but nothin else.On the rear axle for example i take out the wheel and drip on one side and flush it on the other. It's not a car ... 10 ml is more then enough to flush out contaminants from the axle and have that oil spin with no viscosity ... give it a push and it spins forever.Btw for most parts the oil comes out clean on the other side after only couple of drops. Only the first few drops are black. Turn it while dripping to be sure it's cleaning the part inside
@@SkoolConnor They probably still have grease in your pedals then if they are still working as expected. that, or you have closed bearings. Anyway, the grease is a lubricant, it prevents the ball bearings from wearing down over time, in doing so. your balls and the race in which the balls reside will become looser leading to a rougher ride. or rattling. Your wheels will also have similar races and bearings. they too need greasing from time to time. but that really depends on how much you ride. I ride back and forth to work everyday, in rain shine snow. and ice. on road and muddy/ sandy dirt. if i didn't do maintenance my bike would be in a very sorry state.
@@MAILER-DAEMON The society has gone downhill for sure to think that a bearing will fail before grease does, I am not trying to judge you but I am not OK with your mindset of no greasing...even humans need grease...sometimes.
I would say if you can regrease it, you always should. If you like something and it can be kept functional, there's no need to replace it, and you should always avoid creating wasted parts.
That’s how I respond when someone asks why I poured $2k into a $900 BMW motorcycle. I would rather keep it on the road then contribute to the wrecking yard
Sealed bearings are where it's at! If you like to ride through the mud and dusty, wet places, you never have to worry about any of it getting in the grease slowing your roll so to speak. Cone and cup bearings are okay too as long as you're willing to deal with all the maintenance.👍👍👍
@@marcusborderlands6177 it was clearly better before,if it is spinning that fast to begin with it doesn't need grease. You're not gonna get a faster rotation with more grease it clearly didn't need it and slowed it down when he added it so therefore it was totally fine from the jump...if that pedal didn't turn or was stuck then you add grease 🤦🏻
Dry bearings has less grease friction. Dry bearing means metal on metal though. So what's worse? Metal on metal creating a pit in the shaft because it worse away? Or a small drag of grease that helps everything stay lubricated and last longer? This us just a stupid ass question. Edit to make it more simple for you: Oil in an engine creates drag, Do you remove the oil because it causes drag and lowers your performance?
He needs the pedal to spin well with most of his bodyweight on it, not to spin well with no load. That's why the grease seems to hurt but actually helps.
@@bobomomo23 yeah so true they don't maintain their stuff here in india everyone think geared. Cycles are not successful in terms of riding reason mostly of them dont service thier bikes on thier own
Yea fr, I've seen a few comments like this and hate in the answers of those comments but I had this exact shit happen to me. I had copper paste from the factory in my hub and a bit of street salt in the winter killed it.
@@jamesglenn520 because its cheaper than alu specific paste and cars are much more encapsulated than bikes. In exposed positions like this it really is ass. Street salt or if you live close to the ocean the air galvanises the shit out of your alu parts if you use copper paste.
@@albinbunjaku9314 not for a repair, but it's all these little processes that make up a full rebuild of a bike, and that's something I do often. When I say nice workshop I moreso mean a place with enough room to move around the bike while it's on the stand.
A little dab of that grease on the pedal and crank threads along with the anti seize compound will ensure there are no voids when you tighten it down. The copper anti seize works fine the pedal will come off decades later. 35 years experience and thousands of bikes doing it this way never had a problem .
Guess you never rode through water and let the bike sit up for a while. Aluminum, copper, and inevitably contaminated road water makes a corrosive battery which rots the metals. The only way you haven't had a problem with that is you must have never rode it in the rain or on a beach or such.
@@southernflatland 365 days a year in Wisconsin for decades always came off no matter how long I left them on. Had plenty of poorly greased customers bikes on the other hand.
Just so people know, you shouldn't reuse your old bearings. They grind away and have small defects over time which caused the grinding noise. Just saying because it looked as if you cleaned and reused them.
@becomebikemechanic Did you use copper grease to prevent corrosion to the Aluminium cranks? If so replace it with non copper anti seize as copper destroys aluminum due to corrosion between the metals. Ceramic based anti seize is much better. Copper should be replaced if possible and is not the standard nowadays. 🤙🏽
Copper anti seize is formulated to prevent corrosion between steal and aluminum too. Otherwise automobile mechanics wouldn't use it on spark plugs in an aluminum head. This stuff has worked for half a century I don't think it is going to suddenly stop working. I personally know it still works because the pedals will come off my winter bike 20 years later. Can always remove the BB cups from the Cannondales that we built in the eighties and used the copper anti size on . Yeah those came in two boxes ,one for the frame and fork , the other for the rest of the bike. If every bike came that way they would all be better built. That's also why I put plenty of grease in a bearing so I can get away with leaving a pair of pedals on the bike for 20 years also why I only use the best calcium based grease for open bearings like this. The lithium stuff is useless in saltwater with a non sealed bearing.
Getting the inner nut not to over tighten while tightening the outer nut can be a real pain. I’m not sure how it’s done at the factory but I always end up redoing it more than once.
MKS for example just overtightens and users expect a "breaking in period". In other words they just wait for the race to be damaged, then never reach the end of lifetime anyway. Most other loose ball bearing pedals are pure garbage nowadays. Expensive pedals all use bushings or bushings plus locating sealed bearings.
Just what I was going to say. I bent a coat hanger into a sort of spanner to wedge the race nut against the wall of the counter bore while I tighten the jam nuts.
the reason that you never reuse bearings is that when new they are sperical and after use become elliptical and all oriented the same direction and once you remove them and mix them up they are no longer spherical and in effect tumbling and rocking in the race after reassembly. bearings are cheap so just replace with new spherical bearings.
Shame not near me, I got basically all tools needed, haven't got greatest wheel tru stand though but bike project I go to has, yes technically I am an unqualified mechanic that learnt it all from videos and doing to my own bike, no wheels I use at moment are ones I not built myself
@@mlee6050 The non drive side pedal is reverse threaded. Of course you'll also need grease, degreaser, and anti seize because the crank arm is usually aluminium and the axle is steel.
@@iddra1868 I have basically all tools for a bike as build my wheels and rest myself, just maybe 3 bike project have that I don't, my grease was nice until torque wrench handle broke through the lid when I dropped it lol And thanks, I try to remember
This reminds me of tsking apart skateboard wheels, (just prior to the new invention called sealed bearings), to clean out the bearings, and lightly oil them.
Those peddles are 60$ to replace. Why would you pay 20-30$ to get bearing maintenance done instead of buying new peddles? Sounds like snake oil salesmen tactics from a maintenance shop. Better replace that chain while we’re at it!
Yes and no. A rooted bearing has less resistance but it is very rough to spin, new bearings are smooth. The extra resistance of a new bearing goes away soon enough leaving it smooth, but also spinning nicely . Road racers will avoid fresh wheel bearings before thier events for that reason though
That's because he's not putting any weight on the pedal while spinning. When you press it down hard with your leg the greased one rotates with less friction.
I’m not sure this is “worth” it as someone who takes forever to do stuff like this, but I appreciate that you did. Your video is very satisfying, especially with headphones. 🙂
I don’t know if I’m missing something here but there should be a washer in between the end nut and those bearings….. that’s probly where all your slop came from to begin with.
I have news for you. Atter that much wear taking it apart cleaning it and adding grease. Just makes for a clean, greased up, worn-out part. All that slop will return just as soon as you push that grease out of the way. What you should have done while you had it all apart is replace the ball bearings and races for $5.
Rare footage of a mountain biker discovering maintenance
💀
😂🤣
😂
Lmaooo
What's maintenance?(I do mountain biking)
You forgot the part where you drop a ball and it rolls into oblivion
happend to me too many times
Nothing angers me more
No prob they should have been thrown away. Never reuse the bearings because the old ones are scrap metal. Especially these as they are corroded in addition to being not spherical. Used bearings are ellipsoidal.
Haha - so true!
One time we tried to take off a pedal in a carpark, and uh it really rolled off into oblivion.
Shitty plastic pedal that couldn't be removed normally
The life of the pedal bearings has always outlived the time I've had the bike
@JJ-jn5lr I understand where you are coming from. However, there is a few things I notice (as a bike mechanic) that could help. 1. There is no way to adjust hydraulic brakes like you do a cable brake. You can bleed them (usually makes them more responsive, but there is no adjusting). 2. Unless you have all the tools and knowledge to work on said brakes, do NOT try a bleed yourself. Your brakes won't work how they should and it's dangerous. 3. The crank falling off sucks but I've had it happen MANY times, on stuff I installed properly following all procedures and steps. It happens. It sucks. But sometimes it's not the installers fault (can be a host of other things, stripped bottom bracket is a common one, wrong thread pitch is another). Most places do their best to get you the best results possible, however I do suggest a true bike shop (only does bikes) vs a box store as they do not have properly trained mechanics.
Hope this helps with your struggles
@@logancole32 I've never worked on bike brakes before, but I'm curious. Are hydraulic bike brakes bled in the same way that car brakes are?
Yeah fr- it's just gonna get stolen by some crackhead
Had my 1989 Outrageous 18spd, for 15 years, my Sears Free Spirit 10spb for about 7, and my Giant 21spd, for 5..... All have required routine maintenance..... I don't see have your bikes don't last LoL
I just spray my 30yr old Raleigh Summit with wd40 - funny enough the pedals have been squeaking for a couple of years - I’ll just replace em with others off a scrapper bike.
Looking after the balls and shaft is so important
Gotta keep them in good condition and well lubricated
bruh
Preach
Keep em clean dont want them getting dirty thats how problems start.
At first I didn't get the joke😂
Greasing your balls and shaft is something any man should learn.
Words to live by
😂
It's more of am instinct than skill
On a $10 part?
We'll see about that
Can I watch?
“Yes sir we repaired your pedal, That’ll be 247 dollars” every bike repair shop ever
I'm lucky to have a bike shop near my house that does good work for cheap. I've told the owner I worry he's not charging enough because I don't want him to go out of business.
I popped some spokes on a bike I didn't buy from them. They replaced spokes and resealed for $6.00. installing new race face cranks and BB stuff... $45.00 too cheap for me to bother doing my own work.
Man not my bike shop. Pay for parts hardly get charged for labor.
Same here with the one in my town, they do a great job, barley anything for labor. Parts are reasonably priced to.
@@Southerncyclist then you're getting charged for labor through the parts money m
"And you have to wait 3 weeks"
i love bone dry pedals. they spin so damn good and fast.
yas
I thought they were meant to spin at 500mph😅
Unfortunately spinning under load is important
@@jiaan100you calling OP fat?
Use spray grease then
i just take the cap off and shove grease until it comes out the other end.
Keep it simple, no need to do all this bullshit
If you keep greasing regularly the grime inside is pressed out over time. Same with any kind of hand tool or electric tool.
Seriously wears the bearing buddies for bikes 😆
With how dry it sounded, it probably needed a good cleaning and reset.
Could have been lost bearings or damage.
But otherwise, yes, just pack grease.
Flush with solvent spray first
I used to ride bmx in the 80s and 90s. I got a redline in 92. Loved the bike. One day i rode it through rain and mud. During a rainy summer. Loved the bike so much, i took it completely apart before winter. Cleaned every part and greased and oiled. It became something i did every 5 to 6 months. I still have the bike but its in my garage. Waiting for the next rider.
My Redline Series 3 was build from spares while doing repairs at a bike shop. Well I did buy the Sturmy-Archer drum brakes and Haro bars (The first Haro bars for a clamping stem) but most of the rest of the parts were "What do you want us to do with the old part?" "Eh, just toss 'em". It got converted to a mini-mountain bike with a double front and 6 speed rear freewheel. It resides in my basement. Last used when I was renting while working on my just bought house, 8 years ago.
i learnt how to repack a bendix two speed kickback with coaster very early on... lacing suntour three speeds into 20" rims... (sturmey sucked, little chains? always getting busted...)
every bike was reclaimed rubbish, only real one i had was a free agent... got stolen. ironic the neighbours kid had the same one, but with the standard 1" headset, mine had the beefy one... so yeah.
one of the early shimano disc brakes, absolute joke... lol.
and yeah, you think back to various bits and pieces and kick yourself... like pulling teh old phones and radios and other strange "junk" apart... all hard to find and worth a mint for the right person... like that bendix kickback hub... which i do still have... somehwere.
also theres a point that you gotta stop hanging onto old junk but why is it once you throw it out, the next day you NEED IT?
@@paradiselost9946 I just saw a meme on that bit about keeping something for 40 years "just in case" and then only needing it the week after you finally tossed it out.
Those last two sentences "I still have the bike but it's in my garage. Waiting for the next rider", goes so hard and gives me chills.
@@EvilPaladin11for real!!! I'm 40 and still ride everyday ! It's my love ! One day all of our bikes will meet thier next rider .
Do not put copper anti-seizure paste on aluminium parts, that way you are building a battery and eating away the aluminium!!
Use ceramic paste.
Or just the same Number 2 grease. It works for anti seize, electrical connections, and even keeping power tools working way longer than you’d ever expect.
@@jrh2015 oh jeremy
You are a hoot😂
Lithium grease is acceptable .
They make aluminum anti seize.
your not going to get galvanic corrosion in that application
Thanks for letting us enjoy ASMR by not putting EDM music over this like so many channels do.
perdro perdo beat, you can imagine it, no need to add it at this point ;)
Electronic dance music music
yup
who actually unironically enjoys asmr here
It's usually the EDM that doesn't belong in these vids that they use too, I love EDM and it's music production is like a swiss army knife, u can get any vibe out of it and most noises.
Once it rattles like that it's a goner. The grease dampens out the noise after the procedure, but those races are PITTED.
I find this as a good excuse to buy new better pedals.
Yeah exactly, so much more satisfying than all this work.
Not everyone can do that
@@YTT718 lol, nowadays you can get a brand new of pedals for $25. Literally cut back on food for a few weeks and its paid for.
@@iwontreplybacklol7481few weeks? Some places its skip one trip to the fast food joint one time lol
Ya'll rich?
You take care of your bike better than I take care of myself
You mean he takes care of his shaft and balls better than you take care of yours? 😂😂😂
I felt that
Why is that
He’s a good man… and thorough.
A film that never ceases to give
These unlubricated bearings will not stand, man.
Meanwhile my WTB cage pedals from 1987 with the built in zerk fittings are still going strong!
The wife complained about all the toilet paper I used so I modified the holder with a grease zerk.
@rollinrat4850 Those xcpro pedals were so sweet. I make a point of stopping in small bike shops in small towns hoping for nos XCpro and XCpro comp stuff.
You must ride 5 times a year
@rollinrat4850 That sounds like the kind of bike shop I would like. Many of my local shops refuse to sell used parts. I'm a scavenger!
I like your style! :)
@rollinrat4850 Hey, that's cool! I actually have a Motiv Ground Pounder that I converted to single speed because I kept chewing through derailleurs.
It's nearly indestructible, but I think it weighs 38 pounds! XD
it's not just dry. It has worn out bearing cups, also probably bearing balls. But It's better maintenance than no maintenance.
Yeah it still didn't sound good after he reassembled
At the very least the assembly will have a longer service life so long as that lubrication layer is not breached.
Yup, damage was already done, but a good maintenance tutorial to follow before it gets to all out bearing failure
I don't think it makes much difference also when he put it back together it Drew and some of the slack from the wear on the bearing races
Cartridge bearing pedals or I won't recommend them .
With this type of unsealed pedal you have to do this at least once a year or maybe a couple times. With a sealed pedal like Race Face composites you'll be bringing your pedals over to your next bike without ever having service them.
Yeah I didn't even know people could buy junk like this 💩
Legend has it he is still rebuilding these pedals, while others have long since bought new ones
Anymore with what pedals cost this labor may make sense, depending on how much you value your time. 🤪
It makes zero sense, any half decent pedals are greased from the factory and properly sealed.
It's almost as if some men like using their hands for more than just cranking their hog..
1. Снять, разобрать, почистить, смазать и собрать иногда быстрее, чем выбрать и заказать новые;
2. Одни получают удовольствие от выбирания и покупки нового, другие наслаждаются процессом переборки.
@@stepbro3739 Weirdo take
I still have dents in my shins from my feet slipping off those pedals...30 years later.
It's a reason not i'm a curious
Same
Been there done that many times with those peg pedals as well as bear claw.
being barefoot and this is the only bike left
I remember whem i used to bmx with those old sharp metal ones, hard to slip off but you better hope you dont
Crazy how bone dry spun better then lubed up.
Maybe he put the wrong grease in.
not supposed to spin that much its a racing bike
Unloaded will always spin better dry since there's no grease and suction to interfere. Doesn't mean it'll protect anything at all though. That's why all those unloaded ceramic bottom bracket spin tests are nonsense.
@@Vermonsteredyes!! Thank you!! I couldn't have said it better. Once saw a railway bearing that barely spun when greased, but it would outlast an ungreased one by a long shot, obviously. Same principal applies to this pedal here (to the original commenter)
Lasts longer this way.
I tapped and put a grease fitting on my old steel pedals. Works like a charm
Shit that's a lot of work for just one pedal
Not if you account for the time you spend working so you can buy new pedals! Time really is money! :)
@@jamesgizassonyeah, all these guys in the comments seems to have the money to spare.
@@norbertnagy5514 Cycling, camping, offroading... (sigh). Everything I grew up doing has become an elitist activity except one:
Fixing my own car is still cheap fun! :D
@@jamesgizasson yeah, well im just saying people here keep saying they dont fix something till it falls of, they seem both cheap and rich at the same time.
@@norbertnagy5514 Makes sense. I learned to fix my stuff because I couldn't afford to just buy new ones. Seems like a lost art now, and I'm only 35. X3
for those who noted it was spinning netter before
- it was metal against metal so wearing fast
- you want the pedal to spin well when you are pushing it which wont be the case with no lubrication and that metal/metal contact.
- you dont want the pedal to spin too freely when you're not on it. its pretty bad for landing jumps
Used to have a motorcycle with ball bearings in the headstock ...then I found bikes with sealed bearings..oh the joy...no faffing around trying to place ball bearings around in a circle in grease..those sods were literally alive and would taunt you by jumping down the headstock 🤣..
The sealed bearings are the best, I put some really nice tapered bearings on my bike and I have absolutely no complaints with it at all
@Tay_69 tapered bearing?
2 words: sealed bearings
Finally someone in the comments with common sense
Right?!
Sealed bearings do eventually wear out but you can add more grease with a very thin needle. Poke it right in the middle of the seal and cover the hole with super glue.
Sealed bearings are weak against non axial forces, can you confirm/disagree?
@@wendelmedeiros2217 You can get sealed angular contact bearings.
Either way, the ease of maintenance on a sealed bearing setup is worth it 1000x.
I swear that little pick is one of my favorite tools. I use that shit weekly.
Damn, even tho it wasn't a sealed bearing type one it's still look solid, I love the design of the pedal👌
They're nice pedals, last a long time with maintenance
Cup and coan bearings. Super serviceable and reliable.
@@jesmondo5785 much better than the nylon bearing crap that comes in all the new pedals, including the ones they claim are sealed. They last a month
@@paule4204agreed. In areas like pedals & headsets I don't see why cup & cone can't be the norm. They get minimal work and should be serviceable and not just replace in 6-12 months.
Even the pedal has balls of steel.
*Insert sarcastic laughter here*
The fact there are 33 other mouth breathers out there that liked your comment is not good for the sake of comedies future.
Ah the sound of my childhood. *Spins wheel the first time*
Listen to that baby purr. 😂
funny how I havnt done mine in 22 years and they are fine
Building it right is very different then building it light, and cool and shit.
Would have to use it to incur wear
I was just thinking. I've had the same petals for like 8 years and haven't had to do this lol.
maybe you also haven't ridden in 22 years hehe
sometimes bearings last forever sometimes not. you’re an engineer you should know that.
Seeing the bearings get reseated was *chefs kiss*
Why am I so fascinated with just a simple bike pedal 😂 I need to get out more I think but hey still a good video either way so well done mate great editing
I always wondered how the pedal can spin, now i know
I like how you didn’t say now I know how the grease my pedal. I’m not planning on doing it either 😂
@@YogiTheBearMan these are like 15 bucks new, way too much work 😂
@@ipsojure2137 or virtually free to maintain, it takes like 10 min to do. unless you are getting paid like 100 an hour, and that does not factor in the time to go get them from the store. it makes zero sense to buy new for the sake of greasing bearings.
Ngl, I’ve never serviced my Shimano spds for eight years and they still are smooth as butter
Trust me if you start servicing them they will last much longer
Shimano é muito resistente tenho uma catraca shimano a 10 anos e ela funciona como nova até hoje
So you've ridden for 2k miles in 8 years?
Yup, time is not the driver here. Mileage is it. How many in these 8 years?
@@Bruce73X probably 10-12 thousand?
As long as it makes you happy and it doesn't piss anybody off, everything that you do in life matters.
Unless the grease has created its own hydrosphere around the bycicle its not lubricated enough
I never understood why bicycle manufacturers don't add grease fittings/zergs to all moving parts that need grease.
It's such a stupid thing to have to take everything apart for a simple grease job.
you dont have to take everything out like our little overachiever here. I also dont think that pedals need grease in the first place, idk what grease does but my pedals still work like new and I havent put a single bit of grease on them
You can use motor oil and a syringe with a bent needle to reach almost any place. Only an idiot will use grease on a part that is sealed with very little room for contamination. Grease provides highest protection from contamination but nothin else.On the rear axle for example i take out the wheel and drip on one side and flush it on the other. It's not a car ... 10 ml is more then enough to flush out contaminants from the axle and have that oil spin with no viscosity ... give it a push and it spins forever.Btw for most parts the oil comes out clean on the other side after only couple of drops. Only the first few drops are black. Turn it while dripping to be sure it's cleaning the part inside
@@SkoolConnor They probably still have grease in your pedals then if they are still working as expected. that, or you have closed bearings.
Anyway, the grease is a lubricant, it prevents the ball bearings from wearing down over time, in doing so. your balls and the race in which the balls reside will become looser leading to a rougher ride. or rattling.
Your wheels will also have similar races and bearings. they too need greasing from time to time. but that really depends on how much you ride.
I ride back and forth to work everyday, in rain shine snow. and ice. on road and muddy/ sandy dirt. if i didn't do maintenance my bike would be in a very sorry state.
@@MAILER-DAEMON The society has gone downhill for sure to think that a bearing will fail before grease does, I am not trying to judge you but I am not OK with your mindset of no greasing...even humans need grease...sometimes.
@@MAILER-DAEMONnon greaseable u joints are stronger too. I’d use nothing less on a wheeler.
I never knew that one had to grease the pedals. Thank you for sharing this information
I would say if you can regrease it, you always should. If you like something and it can be kept functional, there's no need to replace it, and you should always avoid creating wasted parts.
That’s how I respond when someone asks why I poured $2k into a $900 BMW motorcycle. I would rather keep it on the road then contribute to the wrecking yard
@@Jmort93 That's why BMW stands for bring more wallets
What a horrible design for a ball bearing setup. That’s atrocious.
Yeah this is stupid why isnt it a replaceable bearing
Sealed bearings are where it's at! If you like to ride through the mud and dusty, wet places, you never have to worry about any of it getting in the grease slowing your roll so to speak. Cone and cup bearings are okay too as long as you're willing to deal with all the maintenance.👍👍👍
I remember when I was about 10-12 I tried doing this with no YT video or instructions and just throwing them away after
Is it me or was it actually spinning better before he regreased it
You want it to spin without scraping, not necessarily faster.
@@marcusborderlands6177 it was clearly better before,if it is spinning that fast to begin with it doesn't need grease. You're not gonna get a faster rotation with more grease it clearly didn't need it and slowed it down when he added it so therefore it was totally fine from the jump...if that pedal didn't turn or was stuck then you add grease 🤦🏻
Dry bearings has less grease friction. Dry bearing means metal on metal though. So what's worse? Metal on metal creating a pit in the shaft because it worse away? Or a small drag of grease that helps everything stay lubricated and last longer? This us just a stupid ass question.
Edit to make it more simple for you: Oil in an engine creates drag, Do you remove the oil because it causes drag and lowers your performance?
He needs the pedal to spin well with most of his bodyweight on it, not to spin well with no load. That's why the grease seems to hurt but actually helps.
you grease them to reduce metal on metal wear, fast rotation isnt what you want..@@sloppymcfloppy6925
Huge kudos to Aaron and Alec for showing up with candor
Not everyone can afford 100$ pedals so this is actually nice for people with less money on daily drivers
The expensive stuff has to get serviced too. People buy 10k bikes then never maintain them and wonder why they feel bad a year later
Almost every pedal got those balls inside
@@bobomomo23 yeah so true they don't maintain their stuff here in india everyone think geared. Cycles are not successful in terms of riding reason mostly of them dont service thier bikes on thier own
@@droliann a good sealed bearing set doesnt have them all loose though.
These pedals are cheap…
Did you just put copper paste on aluminium parts?
You know what that's going to do right?
Basically end all existence on earth instantaneously especially the poor kitties who all first spontaneously combust horribly
@@WackadoodleMalarkey and still did it. 🤣
Yea fr, I've seen a few comments like this and hate in the answers of those comments but I had this exact shit happen to me. I had copper paste from the factory in my hub and a bit of street salt in the winter killed it.
It's used on sparkplugs in Aluminum Head Engines every day of the week.
@@jamesglenn520 because its cheaper than alu specific paste and cars are much more encapsulated than bikes. In exposed positions like this it really is ass. Street salt or if you live close to the ocean the air galvanises the shit out of your alu parts if you use copper paste.
Lubed up and ready to go all night on a long ride
Few decent pedals nowadays comes with cup and cone bearings or even sealed cartridge bearings. 99% has nasty bushings or what they call "DU bearings"
pay enough and you get needle bearings, Imo best type of bearings for a bicycle pedal
@@-joo3033Usually only found in Shimano pedals.
@@jimmyhor78 Pinnd also has them, Not sure how many others.
Pedals are so cheap... no need to do this ever...
Я люблю что все работало долго и четко,надёжно. хлам менять один на другой скучно !
@@anatol981 I would say the original pedals were rubbish to begin with... no sealed bearings.
In all machinery, lubrication is the most important thing to keep it running good.
God I love this so much. Wish I had a nice workshop
You dont need one for bike repair
@@albinbunjaku9314 not for a repair, but it's all these little processes that make up a full rebuild of a bike, and that's something I do often. When I say nice workshop I moreso mean a place with enough room to move around the bike while it's on the stand.
@@revvilo its a nice hobby 👍 being also creative with designs
A little dab of that grease on the pedal and crank threads along with the anti seize compound will ensure there are no voids when you tighten it down. The copper anti seize works fine the pedal will come off decades later. 35 years experience and thousands of bikes doing it this way never had a problem .
Guess you never rode through water and let the bike sit up for a while. Aluminum, copper, and inevitably contaminated road water makes a corrosive battery which rots the metals.
The only way you haven't had a problem with that is you must have never rode it in the rain or on a beach or such.
@@southernflatland 365 days a year in Wisconsin for decades always came off no matter how long I left them on. Had plenty of poorly greased customers bikes on the other hand.
Every boy in the 70s & 80s was able to fully rebuild a bike in an afternoon.
And surely it's connected to generational issue and not a result of pervasive car culture in US, right?
And having the ability to do service like this is the reason why Shimano never uses sealed cartridge bearings on any of their pedals or hubs.
use to have old Shimano Deore XT pedals bear paws style with toe clips and i use to service them like that and they were indestructible.
copper grease, that shit lands on your clothes, it stays there forever
I usually put a little grease on the threads before putting the pedal back on the crank.
Helps stop the pedal from seizing on the crank.
I always love your thumbs up at the end
As a mechanic that has absolutely no idea about bicicles, this was a 10/10 bearing maintenance job
I like you. It actually spun faster without maintenance at the beginning when it was bone dry
15 year old me tip, grease it till it flows out and everywhere, it will last longer
Just so people know, you shouldn't reuse your old bearings. They grind away and have small defects over time which caused the grinding noise.
Just saying because it looked as if you cleaned and reused them.
Why is listening to it better than watching it? Almost soothing
@becomebikemechanic Did you use copper grease to prevent corrosion to the Aluminium cranks? If so replace it with non copper anti seize as copper destroys aluminum due to corrosion between the metals. Ceramic based anti seize is much better. Copper should be replaced if possible and is not the standard nowadays. 🤙🏽
Cooper antiseize is safe for aluminum. Read the bottle.
I have only seen copper anti-seize recommended for titanium.
Copper anti seize is formulated to prevent corrosion between steal and aluminum too. Otherwise automobile mechanics wouldn't use it on spark plugs in an aluminum head. This stuff has worked for half a century I don't think it is going to suddenly stop working. I personally know it still works because the pedals will come off my winter bike 20 years later. Can always remove the BB cups from the Cannondales that we built in the eighties and used the copper anti size on . Yeah those came in two boxes ,one for the frame and fork , the other for the rest of the bike. If every bike came that way they would all be better built. That's also why I put plenty of grease in a bearing so I can get away with leaving a pair of pedals on the bike for 20 years also why I only use the best calcium based grease for open bearings like this. The lithium stuff is useless in saltwater with a non sealed bearing.
Never greased a pedal and have never had a problem😂
Well yeah you have to ride it for it to break💀
Never ride either lol
As a enduro rider .. 2 stroke dirtbike.. but yes absolutely GREASE THE SHIT outta everything that moves.. still constant maintenance
The cost of a new pedal of that quality is going to be cheaper than the labor for an overhaul.
Or just dump used motor oil on it as needed
It takes this long, because life is too simple and easy as it is.
Don't reuse old bearings, especially if they have been run dry. As the will be damaged! 🤪
It’s a bike pedal, not a 6000 rpm transmission bearing!
@@SuzukiKid400same concept
Getting the inner nut not to over tighten while tightening the outer nut can be a real pain. I’m not sure how it’s done at the factory but I always end up redoing it more than once.
MKS for example just overtightens and users expect a "breaking in period". In other words they just wait for the race to be damaged, then never reach the end of lifetime anyway.
Most other loose ball bearing pedals are pure garbage nowadays. Expensive pedals all use bushings or bushings plus locating sealed bearings.
Just what I was going to say. I bent a coat hanger into a sort of spanner to wedge the race nut against the wall of the counter bore while I tighten the jam nuts.
the reason that you never reuse bearings is that when new they are sperical and after use become elliptical and all oriented the same direction and once you remove them and mix them up they are no longer spherical and in effect tumbling and rocking in the race after reassembly. bearings are cheap so just replace with new spherical bearings.
Awesome, but its just that i neither have any tools nor any mechanic here wants to do that
Shame not near me, I got basically all tools needed, haven't got greatest wheel tru stand though but bike project I go to has, yes technically I am an unqualified mechanic that learnt it all from videos and doing to my own bike, no wheels I use at moment are ones I not built myself
All you need is a socket wrench and a hex key
@@iddra1868 true and a bit of knowledge, forgot if same thread each side or they reverse thread
@@mlee6050 The non drive side pedal is reverse threaded. Of course you'll also need grease, degreaser, and anti seize because the crank arm is usually aluminium and the axle is steel.
@@iddra1868 I have basically all tools for a bike as build my wheels and rest myself, just maybe 3 bike project have that I don't, my grease was nice until torque wrench handle broke through the lid when I dropped it lol
And thanks, I try to remember
So those bearing are literally riding on the bit holding it all together? No washer or bearing plate? Wow. What a shitty design.
This reminds me of tsking apart skateboard wheels, (just prior to the new invention called sealed bearings), to clean out the bearings, and lightly oil them.
Those peddles are 60$ to replace. Why would you pay 20-30$ to get bearing maintenance done instead of buying new peddles? Sounds like snake oil salesmen tactics from a maintenance shop. Better replace that chain while we’re at it!
He would kill me if I told him I spray my chain with lanolin instead of the proper oiling procedure 😀
Do it yourself it must be one of the easiest maintenance jobs in the world
It deed seem to have less resistance before than after greasing it. So actually not maintaining it makes a more efficient ride then?
Yes and no. A rooted bearing has less resistance but it is very rough to spin, new bearings are smooth. The extra resistance of a new bearing goes away soon enough leaving it smooth, but also spinning nicely .
Road racers will avoid fresh wheel bearings before thier events for that reason though
That's because he's not putting any weight on the pedal while spinning. When you press it down hard with your leg the greased one rotates with less friction.
Keeping things going rather than filling the land fill! Heck ya!
Think I'll just buy a new pedal tbh 🤣
Prime example of why people shouldn’t own bikes.
@@B_COOPER it's a joke mate I fix all my own bikes
@@B_COOPER well not exactly if you only have like £15 pedals anyway then yeah after a year I'd rather just replace them
@@B_COOPER plus people can own bikes and pay other people to maintain them that's totally up to the individual not you or the bike owners police
Or buy a good ones and use them for 10 years in perfect shape?
I love the grinding at the end still 😂 thats why greasing shit parts still means they are shit
Appreciate what you have and take good care of them and they will last a long time.
thank you you just saved me some money. I was going to throw my pedals away but now I know you can restore them.
This looks like a labor of love. I don’t know how much pedals cost but I’ll probably spend less just replacing them annually than doing all this work.
I’m not sure this is “worth” it as someone who takes forever to do stuff like this, but I appreciate that you did. Your video is very satisfying, especially with headphones. 🙂
Now that's proper maintenance! Good job!🎉🏁👏👍
I'm jealous. I wish fixing wheel bearings was this easy :)
I love how mountain bikes seem to use a lot of older technologies.
I wanna say I love your videos.
You’re a brave man removing those bearings
I never did anything like this on my 30 year old bike and the pedals work like a charm
I don’t know if I’m missing something here but there should be a washer in between the end nut and those bearings….. that’s probly where all your slop came from to begin with.
i love re greasing it’s so satisfying
I have news for you. Atter that much wear taking it apart cleaning it and adding grease. Just makes for a clean, greased up, worn-out part.
All that slop will return just as soon as you push that grease out of the way.
What you should have done while you had it all apart is replace the ball bearings and races for $5.
I've never seen bearings like that before, I always seen them with a race, never just the ball bearings like that. Cool!
You should use a “dry lubricant.” Something like graphite or a fine powder so that the heavy gobs of grease doesn’t slow you down.
Grease in the pedal is going to slow you down?!?! I dont think you understand how grease works.
The long lost art of keeper skills. I’m listening ❤
A year? That's funny; I'm 60, and the pedals on my Schwinns that are older than me, still work just fine.
They probably have bushings instead of bearings being that old.
FYI, the standard for that type of bearing is to fill the journal, then remove one. Not many are serviceable, I've found.
If only I had that much love for my bike a long time ago.