Bosch Built-In Wall Oven Microwave Oven Door Switch Repair - 800 Series
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Bosch Built-In Convection Microwave Oven (Speed Oven) 800 Series Wall Oven. Unit was constantly blowing the circuit breaker. Video shows how to remove the unit from the wall and access, test, and replace the door switches internally. Model numbers: HMC80251UC, HMC80151UC, HMC87151UC. Bosch part numbers: 00631512 green switch ($9); 00648812 support (plastic mount for switches, left side $5); 00614767 red switch ($21); 00648813 (switch mount, right side $5)
Just a general comment on microwave door switches. To significantly prolong the lifespan of the switches avoid opening the door when the microwave oven is producing heat (microwaves), for example to shorten the previously set heating time. On most microwaves, perhaps on all, the door switch has to break high current feeding the magnetron when the door opens when in heating mode. Instead always press STOP button to stop generation of microwaves before opening the door or wait until the preset heating time elapses.
That's a very good suggestion. When opening the door, there is an important sequence of activate-deactivate that the switches go through to safely shut off the unit. This SHOULD be controlled by the mechanical position of the switches and the levers that activate them. But I think that Bosch has designed the tolerances too tight, so that the timing is barely making it. If the unit is running when you open the door, there could be a current surge through these switches that causes them to fail. Thanks for the tip!
I've been a tech for 10 years and I agree with this statement. Never open the microwave while it is running, it vastly shortens the life of the door switches.
Ken - just a followup. Thanks again for your helpful videos. Extremely helpful! I ordered both sets of plastic holders and 3 switches. The holder on the Right side is almost impossible to install a switch into. There are two tabs, and requires pulling them back at the same time. I broke the post on the R holder even before I installed it. So just a word of warning to others: be careful with the R side switch holder.
Microwave is working fine now. Hoping that it won't blow another fuse. Thanks again for all your great videos!
Excellent video Ken. Two comments you made triggered me to check the obvious components first: 1) from the door side, press lightly on the left switch white trigger to listen for a click. If there is no click, the switch is most likely bad. My switch clicked. 2) at the end you recommended replacing the switch mounts once you are in the unit. This led me to check the left mount from the door side to see if it moved or was loose. Mine was loose. I ordered the 3 switches and two new mounts, waited for them to come. Once they arrived two days later, I opened up the unit as you clearly showed ready to replace all switches and mounts. Sure enough, I found the left mount totally loose. After tightening down the left mount I tested the unit. It worked! The loose mount was not allowing the door latch to engage the switch correctly. Moral of the story, check the obvious first. I am keeping the new switches and mounts for when the others give up the ghost. Thank you again for the concise, well photographed and scripted episode.
hey chuck, where did you order your parts from? I'm in the same predicament, and I figured might as well change everything in one go.
Also wanted to thank you for documenting this process and providing replies to all the comments below. If somebody is having this issue and watches your video and reads the comments they will be very well prepared to deal with the problem. I'm waiting for parts, but feel confident it will fix the issue.
Thank you Ken! I was able to save my microwave from 4 problems that all came within a few days: left hinge, 1 fuse, 2 switches (normally open and normally closed). Evil situation I know... Posch (oups! Bosch). I can confirm that putting the rubber seal on the cover before installing it ease the job. I was able to partially save my cover for this time since some clips where still available - I will keep the new cover I ordered for sometime later when the right hinge will fail ;) For those who broke the switch support pins like I did, you can use 4-40 screws (smaller than 6-32) to pass thru the switches holes after doing some drill holes on the support.
Thanks Ken, This is the 2nd time I've had to replace these faulty door switches, So frustrated with Bosch. Truly appreciate this excellent and descriptive video! Great job.
Well done. I have been down this road before with my boat anchor (I mean my Bosch microwave). I just buy the brackets at the same time because they're cheap and I always break the tabs. I use the same method measuring continuity with a meter, I have had the switches perform correctly and still be faulty. (?-maybe too slow) After closer inspection the switches smelled like burnt electronics but, still functioned on the meter. I've done (all) the switches twice and both door springs.
Thanks so much for your video Ken. You saved me 100s of dollars. Contemplated either an expensive service call or replacing the oven. My Bosch 800 Speedoven was lighting up, fan turned on but the turntable and microwave was not operating. I replaced the microswitch part #00614767. Unfortunately I also damaged the switch mount. I fixed this by using plastic epoxy to permanently glue the switch to the mount. Total repair time was less than 1 hour. I am a relative novice when it comes to appliance repair. Working perfectly now. Thanks again!!!
Did you make a video? That plastic part is causing the door to get stuck when opening it.
Thanks very much! These switches have gone down three times in six years and this makes all clear!
Thank you so much for this helpful video. My unit is finally back on. The one Feedback I would like to share is that I had to replace many fuses as I did not realize that two of the switches had to be Normally Open (NO) switches and one is a Normally closed switch (NC) which was the Monitor interlock switch. After I replaced the switches with the correct ones and replaced the fuse, all was good.
Thanks , Ken, for the video. I had a variation. I found the faulty green button and relaced it easily but the unit would not function except for a couple of lights in the touchpanel. Turns out one of the ceramic fuses had blown. The breaker never tripped, only one ceramiic fuse and the tco on top of the magnatron
Thanks for the feedback. Yep, if the breaker doesn't trip, then the fuses are a safety backup. I think that there are 2 fuses in there -- the AC input, and between the high voltage transformer and the HV capacitor.
My unit just popped without tripping the breaker and won’t work at all . I’ve removed it from the wall as it on top of the oven . Oven still works , and opening the top speed oven/ microwave the HVAC Transformer is burnt on top of the motors but motors are still spinning so not seized . Also I don’t know if the fuses have popped as they are coated and not visible to see . Any suggestions,thx Steve
Thanks for the video, Ken -- very helpful. I used it to replace the top left (looking at the microwave from the front) switch, but when I fired it back up, it immediately blew again. So I ordered and replaced it again, but also the right side switch this time. They were both faulty. I didn't replace the bottom left one, as it seemed to be working, and would have been almost impossible to remove without breaking the holding tabs. I did break the tabs for both the other switches when removing them, and had to make little wedges to hold the switches in place. If I was doing it again, I would replace the holding brackets on both sides too, as they seem designed for permanent insertion of the switches. So far so good -- thanks again!
Thanks for your feedback.
Thanks a million! 2nd time changing the monitor switch and couldn’t remember how to remove it, but knew it should be possible without removing the unit from the wall!
This is an amazingly helpful video. Thank you.
Ken, Many thanks for the helpful DIY videos here. At the end of a 5-minute microwave on high to cook a meal, the unit went dark. Circuit breaker on house electrical panel tripped. I tried to close it and it tripped again and heard a loud popping sound from inside the unit. I pulled all the door interlock switches and checked continuity on each, pressing the red and green buttons to confirm the switches were okay while attached to a multimeter. All three switches indicate proper functioning, open when supposed to be open and closed when supposed to be closed. I ordered 3 new switches anyway, the two supporting brackets, and the white lever for the left side support (looking at the oven). Checked the new switches for continuity before installing those, all okay. Checked the two fuses on the rear circuit board where power enters the unit, and the fuse for the magnetron, all okay. After reinstalling the new door interlock switches, I closed the circuit breaker on the home electrical panel - it remained in the closed position without tripping. Confirmed I have power to the back of the unit using a non-contact voltage detector. Problem now is that the unit remains dark. Guessing the control panel is kaput (the loud pop), or one of the high voltage components is bad, though I would think I would see power to the control panel even if one of the high voltage components was bad. Also, not sure how I can have power to the unit and all the fuses still good but have a control panel that’s dark. Wanted to see if you’ve dealt with this next level of the problem before I start troubleshooting the high voltage components. Thanks again.
Mike, you've checked all of the things that I would check. Next, I would do a "smell test" (burnt plastic) and "look test" at the control panel circuit boards. A loud pop could mean that a component blew on a board, which might be visible. If you don't find anything there, then yes, I would start checking other components. The schematic/service sheet inside the unit has helps for those. I have not had to do that yet. Good luck!
i want to thank you for the video also and you were definitely right about removing the wires from the switch! If the switch was not broke before removing the wires it would probably be broken removing them!
Anyway my switch was bad and my appliance parts store had the switch in stock so it is back in operation! Noting your last sentence about having to change it again in a couple of weeks and also doing something to the actuator, i bought 2 switches.
I am really surprised that a bad micro switch would cause the breaker to trip but i guess if the complete circuit was shown it might make sense. I hope i do not have to do anymore but i will be looking for your next video on the actuator.
Thanks again
Paul
Ken, Thanks for the video. The constant breaker blowing matches my symptoms.
Ken - thanks so much for your videos. I have a similar model and watched your previous video about the door hinge. Now my Bosch is having problems with the fuse blowing repeatedly. I'm going to try and replace all 3 fuses and the plastic holder. But does anyone have the part numbers? In the description you provide the Bosch part number for one of the switches and the plastic holder I figured I'd replace all 3 + the plastic holder at the same time.
Bosch quality has really gone downhill. In less than 4 years, I've replaced the front board, door hinges, 2 sets of fuses, and now this. For a microwave/oven combo that costs over $3000 I was not expecting this level of headache.
I just added more part numbers in the video description. If you do a web search on any of these part numbers, you should get a few companies to order from. Some of these places also provide parts diagrams with other parts, too.
I’ve replaced switches three times and board two, in six years. The product is great when it works, but the electronics are terrible; made by Midea apparently
I’ve replaced switches three times and board two, in six years. The product is great when it works, but the electronics are terrible; made by Midea apparently
Ken, Thank you for this video, it is very helpful. My circuit breaker did not blow, the panel just went dark and the unit does not start, even after flipping the circuit again. The service "professional" came in and just opened the door and said, "the switches are bad". Our hinges are broken (maybe what caused the switches to go bad), so now its to be $1000 because they don't replace the hinges, just the entire door ($550). We are going to purchase the parts and DIY (understanding the electrical danger, thanks again for mentioning that), also thank you for mentioning the fuse at the back at the cord entrance! Maybe when we get it open, that will be the issue, besides the broken hinges of course, what poor design/parts by Bosch!
Lisa, if the unit operates after you replace the switches and fuse (if necessary), then you can also check my video about replacing the hinges. No sense in doing the hinges if it doesn't operate, though. You might only have one bad hinge-- I thought that both were broken on ours, but only one was. The video shows how to easily remove the door to check the hinges. The hinges are about $55 each. I don't think that the broken hinge caused the electrical problem.
Getting closer, hinges replaced, green switch replaced (both red switches tested good), nothing, picked up a pack of fuses, found out there are 2 fuses in the area where the power comes into the unit. One was good, the other blown, replaced, now we have power to the panel, but now the start button does not work. I can put in time, etc, but when trying to start, nothing happens. I'm going to check the position of the switches and change those out next. Any thoughts?
Microwave is working! Thank you for your assistance. Now I did notice that the left side does not always engage fully and the microwave won't start, but a little jiggle and the switch engages. When opened, I noticed the plastic mount had some play back and forth when loosened, so maybe when/if I open again, I could bring that switch further forward to allow complete engagement each time. Thank you for your video.
@@lisaapierro8065 Thanks for that update, and thanks for your comment about the position of the switch bracket. We all benefit from each other's experience. Glad you got it working.
Two things that have gone out on my bosch
1 Turn table motor
2 door switch ( and fuse )
I have been having the same issue for at least a year. My unit was returned two days ago after a three month repair. It worked for one day. This is so frustrating!
This is a great video and did "fix" my issue. That was 5 months ago. Unfortunately the same switch failed again. In my case I am pretty sure that I am getting arc'ing from the metal turntable. The wheels get a bit of grease on them and then arcs to the inside of the oven. We had the same issue with the internal rack, so we stopped using it. We have already had these replaced under warranty during the first 6mo of ownership. My suspicion is that the arc'ing draws an overcurrent and ends up damaging the door switch. There is evidence of melting around the switch wires. I'm going to replace the switch again, then use the microwave without the metal rack and without metal turn-table and see if this happens again. I'll update this comment if I get another switch failure.
Interesting thought, Charles. The only time we use the rack is for broiling, never with the uwave. Never noticed anything with the metal turntable in place. I have also noticed evidence of too much heat around the switches and wires, but I thought that it might be from using it in convection or oven mode at a high temperature, which we now avoid doing. Thanks for your comments.
@@kenherting - So far so good. We stopped using the metal rack and turntable, and stopped opening the door while the unit is running (we press stop/cancel before opening). I'm thinking of ordering one of the glass turntables off of amazon so that we get some rotation. Currently we just use the ceramic top plate, and place it on the turntable and elements. It does not rotate as-is.
Just had a repair guy out not 1 hour ago. Replaced bad door switch on each side and fuse which had blown. Mine is attached to the oven so the entire assembly had to be removed from the wall. Funny how this huge wall oven/microwave is only attached to the cabinet cut out surround with 4 wood screws, yet the metal shield’s of the microwave have a dozen or more screws holding it all together. After watching and reading the comments, it appears I’ll be changing out the door switches again at some point. Thanks to this video and watching my repair guy, I will be able to do this myself next time. Does anyone have the part numbers for the switches and bracket (that was not replaced this time) so I’ll know what to order. Thanks!
The left side part numbers are posted in the video description. If you do a search for either of these parts, you will get a place that will tell you the right side parts, too. (partsdr, sears, and others)
I also have the Microwave/Oven combo; very big and heavy. The 4 screws are only there to help prevent the oven from pivoting in place; otherwise, it sits on top of a base and mostly stays in place due to its weight.
The metal shield on top needs many more screws because it is made of sheet metal which can warp easily.
Ken, Did you ever post a video for Part 2, replacing the switch mounting brackets? Thanks!
No, sorry, it's still on my to-do list. The gist of it though, is that if you are replacing the switch, you should also replace the black mounting bracket and also the white trigger lever. They are cheap parts, and any wear can cause a timing change that can cause switch failure. The other benefit is that you can do this repair without pulling the unit out of the wall cavity. Just slide it out about 8 inches and remove the smaller cover, and then remove the whole switch bracket with just 2 screws that hold it in.
Hi Ken. The video is really useful. Thanks. My microwave is about 4 years old. Worked well for over 3 yrs then the door switch blew. Replaced it having watched your video. Now after approx 3 months it’s blown again. Do you know if this is just a regular occurrence with this model or symptom of another fault elsewhere? I agree with Clint’s comment of buying the bracket at the same time as a new switch.
I think that these switches are underrated for the current that they need to carry. OK for normal operation, but can't handle the surges that might occur just at the time the door is opened or closed. That might be why it's good to replace the brackets at the same time as the switch. The timing could be slightly off with a worn bracket.
@@kenherting thanks for responding. I have changed the bracket because as you say they’re very flimsy. I’ve seen some microswitches advertised but they come with a “tail” on top of the actual switch. I wonder if they are actually heavier grade and whether this type of switch would work. I’m still puzzled as to why the m/wave worked for more than 3 years without blowing a switch but has blown 2 in almost as many months.
Hello Ken, Thanks for a great video. Unfortunately I did not mark the connectors when I removed them from the door switch with the green button. I manage to trace them it looks like one goes to the panel and the other goes to the fan area, I might be wrong. If I am correct which of the wires did you mark T the one that goes to the fan area or the once that goes to the display panel ?
Thanks
Henrik
Henrik, it should not matter if you reverse them. This is simply a switch that is an open or closed connection. It is important, however, that both white wires go to the same switch (upper), and both blue wires go to the lower switch.
Ken, Have you replaced a turntable motor on a Bosch HMC80251UC/01?
Sorry, no. But when you do it, please make a video! :)
Can you answer a question? If so, my same Bosch microwave just stopped showing any lights or power after using it to heat up some food. I believe the plug is hot and check the breakers so nothing was tripped. Do you suspect it could be one of the door switches causing this or something else. I’m going to pull it from the cabinet, up plug it and check the wall plug with voltage meter, which I believe is hot but not sure till I test. If hot then I’m trying to decide what next? Follow your door switch procedure and if not that what should I check next? Thanks for any suggestions or help. I will check the fuse when I get to it this afternoon by the cord attachment.
Ken - thanks for the helpful video. After 4 years, our left side switch failed and blew an internal fuse. I used your video to make the repair. I changed the switch (green button), bracket, and fuse. Two weeks later it did the same thing. Repaired it all again. Another week later and it failed again. So really curious if your repair has worked long term. I have more of the switches and brackets and this time I’m also going to replace the what plastic piece on the bracket that triggers the switch. Totally frustrating. After the 2nd repair I disassembled the failed switch (carefully pop the side off) and it appeared to be sticking closed. When you press the green button, the switch is supposed to open and break the circuit between the two wires connected to it. If I unstick it the switch seems okay again (though I’ve not reused one). Any ideas appreciated! Thanks!
Yes, frustrating. I replaced the switch and it failed after a week. The appliance store gave me another one, and this time I also changed the black bracket and the white trigger lever. It has not failed since (about 6 months). In looking at the schematics, as the door closes, it's important that the green switch engages (opens the circuit) before the other door switches close, or else you will get a current surge that can blow a fuse or circuit breaker or fry the switch. I'm guessing that changing the bracket and lever changed the timing back to what it should be, and those parts are cheap.
@@kenherting thanks Ken. Well, last night I replaced the green and red switches, becket, and white swinging switch activator on the left side. The green switch I took apart and the contact was welded together. Some current must flow through there to spot weld it. Hmm. So then I decided to also replace the bracket and red switch on the right side too. That may be the culprit. That switch was also welded closed (red start open and green starts closed) and wouldn’t open with the button. It was also scorched inside. After replacing all those pieces, microwave powered up and panel worked, except for the enter button. I can’t start the microwave or speed oven function. I can set it, but not start it. So - gonna check all the connections again today. Pretty annoyed at this thing.
@@JimCavalieri One other thing to check. Does the kitchen timer function work on the panel? This should be independent of the door switches, but will test the enter button and basic panel function. If the timer works, then study the schematic for the switches and wiring. And test switch continuity again with the door open and closed. If the timer doesn't work, then it might be a problem in the panel itself.
@@kenherting thank for the tip Ken. I tried the kitchen timer as you suggested and the panel is fine. So I checked all the switches by manually activating them and they all click nicely, and I checked the continuity. So then I focused on whether the door “tabs” were correctly activating everything. Turns out the left side was not quite pushing the red switch closed. I loosened the bracket and squeezed it forward a smidge and tightened it back down. Now it activates and the microwave appears to be fully functioning. Hoping this all is a lasting repair and that it is wear over time that caused things to loosen up a bit and eventually fail the switches. Given the effort I’ve gone through pulling out the double oven each time, I’ll replace all 3 switches, the white lever, and both brackets if there’s a “next time.”
Incidentally, the new white lever fit much more snugly on the new bracket. It has a lot less play to it. That may be something to watch as a trigger for the failures. Thanks again. Fingers crossed.
!! Thanks for your help!
@@JimCavalieri Thanks for the update, Jim. That might help some of us in the future!
Thanks for this video - how many of the switches would I need? 2 of green 631512 ones and 1 red 614767 one? Mine keeps blowing the fuse every week or so and I’m thinking of replacing the switches - hence asking; thank you again!
You'll need 2 red and one green. Your problem could be with one of the switch mounting brackets, too. Check out my switch repair video part 2. ruclips.net/video/7wqSYVJCuKc/видео.html
I see you have the White and Blue connectors labeled with at "T". Does it matter which connector goes on top and bottom? If so, how do you know which one goes on top?
The 2 white wires must go on the top switch -- it doesn't matter which connectors. The 2 blue go on the bottom switch -- again it doesn't matter which connectors.
Thank you for the video. Can you please give me an advice how to remove the white wire connector from the switch. I am having trouble pulling it.
They can be very tight sometimes. I use needle nose pliers to grab the metal lug, and then pry it off by twisting a screwdriver blade against the pliers. Good luck.
Sooo ...Failed Control panel.. Twice... although the 2nd replacement was still under a parts Warranty.
Surprised by No mention of that failure here... The Bosch servicee tech addmited that the control panel failures were Epidemic.. as in most All units.
Currently.. Both Door hinge springs have failed. Can I expect the Door switches to die as well ?
Go Bosch !.
Thank you Ken for detailed video on how to replace switch. I had same issue as you, my circuit breaker was tripping, Bosch service person came and replaced switches, now breaker doesn't trip, but microwave does not turn ON, When I press "START button nothing happen. I tried convection function, but same thing, can set temp for oven and all but START button doesnt do anything. Do you know what could be my issue, and how to fix this ? My thought is microwave thinks that door is still open and does allow to press Start button, Bosch service person was telling me whole circuit board needs to be replaced. Thank you for your help in advance!
The switch that went bad for me was the Monitor switch. It is normally closed, and opens the circuit when the door is closed. If it fails to open the circuit, it will trip the breaker. The other 2 switches on the door are normally open, and will close the circuit when the door is closed. I think that if one of those 2 switches are bad, and they won't close the circuit, then that could be your problem. The video shows how to test those. While you have it the box open, just do a general check of all of the cables connected to circuit boards, too. It could be just a loose connector somewhere. DO NOT TOUCH THE BIG CAPACITOR FOR THE MAGNETRON, or wires connected to it. You could get a big shock. If it's a problem on a board, I don't know how to diagnose that. Good luck!
@@kenherting Thanks a lot Ken! I tested all the switches, they were all functioning well. One of the other 2 switches was not getting pressed upon closing the door. I stick small piece of plastic on top of red button. Everything started working back to normal. Thank you for your help again!
Does this model have a safety screw? One screw is different than the others on the cover. What is the proper location?
I did not find that one screw was different. Maybe it was repaired in the past and a screw got lost?
Mine have broke at least 5 times in the past few years. These are lemons
Hi Ken thanks for your videos. I used the one on the door to replace the spring. As I put the door back I noticed no display of time. So probably one of the 3 switches. It was working before I started on the spring replacement, so I feel like an idiot. You don't show where the AC fuses are in the unit, incase it is one of the two fuses and not the switches. Do you recall where fuses are? is on the same panel as the display or under the other larger protective cover?
As I recall, there is a fuse near the top rear of the unit. If you take off the top large cover, you will see it where the power cord comes into the back.
@@kenherting Ok thanks. I don't think I can get to it then because to remove the larger cover the unit has to slide out quit a bit and I don't have a stand for the pair of units for or a second person to help.
Great video. In my case, the unit is completely dark and the breaker never blew. So I wonder if the problem is the switch in mine or something beyond that. How would I know?
I would suspect the main input fuse to the unit. Unplug the unit, take the covers off and look for a fuse near where the power cord comes into the box. Bad door switches could potentially cause that fuse to blow, too.
@@kenherting Thanks. Did that last night. The fuse is good. Did a continuity test on it. Very frustrating.
Did you ever get your Bosch working I believe I have the same issue you had? Any suggestions Thanks
@@mikereckley2624 Service guy came out and looked at the unit. Some of the wires were frayed and burned and he suggested that they should be replace. Bought a harness kit for 90 bucks and have yet to install it. He also replaced the fuse and it started up. Very odd because the old fuse was good as well. I suspect that the wires were the problem and he gently moved them to make better contact. Open your unit up and look to see if your wiring looks ok. Do a test on your fuse as well.
Hi Ken. do you have a video how to change the lightbulb? My model is the HMC80151UC. Thanks
I've never had to change mine. However, if you look at my video about the door switch repair ( ruclips.net/video/KMTASBXC29M/видео.html ) you will see how to open the cabinet and access the light bulb. You can see the bulb at about 4:55 into that video. Hope that helps!
I used a 4x4 Lego for the chock
How did you pull the unit out of the wall? There does not seem to be anything to hold onto. I removed my two screws and I can't get mine to budge.
I'll answer my own question. My microwave was attached to a bracket attached to the oven below by eight star screws, four on each side. The entire combo unit and to be pulled out a few inches (first also remove the two screws holding the oven to the cabinet), then remove the four star screws on each side. I had to angle the entire unit to be able to get to the screws. Once all four screws are removed, the microwave can be removed fairly easily. Mine is hardwired to the oven, but the conduit tube for the wires is pretty long so I can work on the microwave set on a stool in front of the oven.
@@robkunz5 Thanks for that update. I'm sure that will help someone else, too.
@@robkunz5 were you able to do this yourself? My speed oven appears to have a bad door switch and I'm trying to decide whether to try this repair myself. My speed oven is attached to the wall oven below it, and the whole unit will need to be slid out. I'm just not sure how far out to either free the speed oven from the bottom oven or to take the top off the speed oven and work on it partially in place. My contractor built a stand to help them do the install, so I have a stand I can slide the whole thing out onto. Thoughts appreciated!
Hello do you have a video for how to repair the same Microwave if it does not turn on? I have the same model and it just stopped working panel dead..How do I know what to fix..Thanks
The first thing to do is to go to your breaker box and turn off the circuit for the microwave (it should be on its own circuit if wired properly), and then turn it back on. There should be a nice solid click for both operations. If that does not solve the problem, you will need to pull out the unit, unplug it, and take off the top covers as shown in my first "switch" video. Look for a fuse right where the power cord enters the back of the unit. See if that fuse is bad. (If you don't know how to test that fuse, then you should definitely get help from a pro for safety's sake! Even unplugged, there are ways to get shocked inside there.)
I’ve taken the two screws out of the top unit and it will not budge? What is the clue to getting it out of the cabinet? No other screws anywhere but the oven below and took them out to see if it was installed all together but again no movement? Can’t seem to get it out to even work on it? Certainly don’t want to force it and possibly scratch cabinet or bend a part. need some advice please!!! Thanks in advance
@@mikereckley2624 Is the microwave attached to an oven below? Try removing the screws for the oven as well and removing both oven plus microwave as a single unit. That was the case for me.
Do you have the switch and mounting part #?
they're in the description for the video
I'm deep down a rabit hole with this useless and expensive appliance. spent a few hours on a video call with an appliance tech. we tested all sorts of things. it all started with the switches....but we also ended up raplacing the turntable motor (crazy loud...high resistance) after 2 years. the switched I have done twice. this is the third time, and I can't get it working again. blowing the breaker. I'll try some of the tweaks I read below regarding pushing the bracket forward (I've replaced the bracket too). I'm getting to the point....now that I'm many hours an $400 into parts into this, that I either call an appliance tech over and go through the whole unit looking for problems (sounds like $400...plus parts of course), or cut my losses and move on. anyone fine a unit that is the same size as a replacement?
and thanks for the video, Ken. great having stuff like this out there.