Rebuilding a broken Racine Hydraulic Utility Saw Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- In the first of 2 video's, I make a new guide arm for the broken arm that holds the power hacksaw frame on my new-to-me metal cutting saw. In the video, I'll use my other smaller Keller power hacksaw, Kearney and Trecker 2K mill, and Bridgeport 2J vertical mill to make a new guide arm out of steel.
Glad to see you back making videos!
Thanks Brian. A one year hiatus.....
Been missing your videos. How is the Y30 coming along ?
Thanks. The Y30 is about to take center stage. I haven't touched it, or any of my other machines, in a year. Crazy busy with work and making parts for work machines.
WELCOME BACK.
Thanks Ron. I hope you had a great holiday and a Happy New Year. Thanks for watching!
Great to see you back making videos. . I always enjoy your videos. I hope your health is improving.
Thanks, Tom. I appreciate it. Hope the jointer is treating you well.
Loved your videos mate - watched both of them. Your Racine doesn't lift on the back stroke? I have a Keller #5 that's being sorted by my machine shop friend who has a Peerless that lifts via cam on the return stroke. Glad you're well, please keep sharing your knowledge! Peace
Thanks for watching. Yes, the Racine lifts on the backstroke. I love it and use it frequently.
Nice work Jeff. You're doing well with your metal working. Jeff
Thanks Jeff. I appreciate it, especially coming from you.
Hey Jeff, glad to see you posting again. I am very curious, what is the status of that beautiful bandsaw ?? I have said to my wife many times that I would love to own one of the antique bandsaws, great machines. Take care and have a great 2020.
Thanks for hanging in there for me. 2019 was beyond hectic for me, and while I was working constantly in the shop, there was just no time to get a camera involved, with all the time needed for editing, etc.....The Y30 bandsaw project will appear in a video very, very soon, so stay tuned.
Great to see you making videos again, Love them. Nice new, old tool.
Thanks Rodney!
Nice saw!
Thanks, it was a good find, and as you'll see in Part 2, it's a darned good one, too.
Great to see another video, Jeff! Thanks for documenting and posting, and great job on the refurbishment/repairs!
Thanks for sticking around, Eric. I appreciate it. More to come....
Thanks for posting Jeff!
Is your Keller saw the 601 Jefferson or the next larger one?
No, it's a Keller No. 1. 5"X 5".
Jeff Heath I thought it looked a bit larger, thanks!
Glad you were busy during the work season, however, I'm more glad to see you busy during the play season.
Saw where Wiggins had his channel active again.
Rollie
Thanks, Rollie! Good to hear from you. I hope all is well. See ya around the arn gatherings.
How do you change the belt that drives the water pump ?
It's a rubber slow speed belt joined by a staple. Simply unhook it, install it, and run the staple through again. Nope, I don't have a picture.
@@JeffHeathTheVintageWorkshop But there is no way to sling a modern auto parts store belt over the pullies ?
@@1-shotslinger108 you don't use a auto parts store belt. Get the right belt. Contact belting companies. Mine was fine so I didn't replace it.
@@JeffHeathTheVintageWorkshop My original belt was laying in the bottom .It had a staple .I did not know you could still get an early style belt. Thanks .
Surprised you couldn't find a foundry nearby that woukd use the old one for a mold the recast it using the old metal (add a little more so you could machine it down)
Not sure what you're referring to. The only thing broken was the cast iron arm, and that is the weak link of these Racine machines. I replaced it with a A36 steel bar, machined to specs by me, that will be a LOT stronger and no chance of breaking again. This is a better option. I've seen quite a few of these hydraulic saws with broken arms over the years.
@@JeffHeathTheVintageWorkshop you said you went with steel you had lying around because of the cost to ship cast iron. And you said 1018 (a lot more expensive) not A36.
I would have though a local (driving distance, like Chicago Crucible) foundry could recast for a lot less than the shipping cost you mentioned. Even reuse the old piece as a pattern (Or using a wooden replica you could easily make) then melt it to recast. Or using a wooden replica you could easily make.
As for the strength, sure the steel is stronger, but stronger than needed.
My guess is, as you said in part 2) it was broken from misuse not a design flaw.
@@TEDodd Whatever I said I used in the video is what I used. I honestly don't remember. I have a lot of A36 and 1018 around here, as I do a lot of fabrication work. In my opinion, steel is better than the cast iron bar. I surely wouldn't need to get it cast. I could have purchased durabar, but why? No need. Thanks for watching.
Good to see you again Jeff, it's been a while.
Regards,
Duck
Thanks. More to come. Thanks for hanging in there. Last year was just too crazy.
Thanks for posting this, always been interested in power hacksaws - don't see many of them around anymore and they're interesting machines. Didn't know they compared so favourably to bandsaws.
Thanks for watching. Part 2 will show you what it can do.
Welcome back !!! Jeff, great to see you back again.
Thanks Ron! Hope you're staying warm up there in Harvard.
Looking good Jeff. Good to see another video from you
Thanks Chuck. It's been a while, I know. I appreciate it.