Hello. In my area (central europe) these original murray shear pins are pretty expensive comparing to US. But i often snap them. I am thinking of making these bushings from aluminium and using maybe brass or some low grade bolt. I may snap 10 of them in one season which is something like 35 to 40 bucks. Do you know what strenght/grade these bolts are? Thank you . I am even considering of using something like brass bolts
Most shear bolts are Grade 1 sometimes 2. I know of a guy that take regular grade 3 bolts and takes an angle grinder or a small zip disk and puts small grooves on the points where they shear to weaken them enough to save the gear box. Not sure I recommend doing that but it's an idea. What you need to find is an industrial supply shop near you that specializes in fasteners. You can take your shear bolt in and get them to match up grade 1 or 2 bolts, they will be substantially less expensive, like possibly a few cents each kind of thing.
@@patthesoundguy thank you for response. On ebay I fould them significantly cheaper. But shipping is 30 €. Thank you anyway I may compare the strenght on a "stretch machine" so I am sure about the strenght differences of the bolts. I am not going to put there anything stronger. I think I may have translated a few things wrong so I am sorry about that. Have a great day
@@HonzaZalabak if you have the part number post it up and I'll price them up from my suppliers here in Nova Scotia Canada, maybe I could send you some for much cheaper than ebay.
There is a spacer with the pin on those Murray/Noma/Briggs the Pin goes through it and into the bigger hole. It keeps from cutting the pipe of the auger to snap the pin, the spacer takes the force and evenly distributes around the hole in the auger.
A washer under the head of the bolt would allow the pin to shear but where the hole is larger than the pin shaft it will likely break the pin too easily
I saw this on my Honda used 1332 snowblower and immediately removed it. Glad I saw that. The machines are expensive
Honda's have gears to drive the assembly so shear pins are even more important on those. Glad you got to it in time 👍
Hello. In my area (central europe) these original murray shear pins are pretty expensive comparing to US. But i often snap them. I am thinking of making these bushings from aluminium and using maybe brass or some low grade bolt. I may snap 10 of them in one season which is something like 35 to 40 bucks.
Do you know what strenght/grade these bolts are?
Thank you
. I am even considering of using something like brass bolts
Most shear bolts are Grade 1 sometimes 2. I know of a guy that take regular grade 3 bolts and takes an angle grinder or a small zip disk and puts small grooves on the points where they shear to weaken them enough to save the gear box. Not sure I recommend doing that but it's an idea. What you need to find is an industrial supply shop near you that specializes in fasteners. You can take your shear bolt in and get them to match up grade 1 or 2 bolts, they will be substantially less expensive, like possibly a few cents each kind of thing.
@@patthesoundguy thank you for response. On ebay I fould them significantly cheaper. But shipping is 30 €.
Thank you anyway I may compare the strenght on a "stretch machine" so I am sure about the strenght differences of the bolts. I am not going to put there anything stronger.
I think I may have translated a few things wrong so I am sorry about that. Have a great day
@@HonzaZalabak if you have the part number post it up and I'll price them up from my suppliers here in Nova Scotia Canada, maybe I could send you some for much cheaper than ebay.
@@patthesoundguy i lost my temper and ordered them overpriced :D but thank you sir for advices :)
No worries, glad to help
what would happen of you put a washer instead of welding?
I just changed my pin. The hole was bigger than the pin. Should I used the spacer in the side that has the bigger hole? Can I send you a pic?
Or should I put a simple washer ?
Sure send me a pic on my instagram DM @patthesoundguy
There is a spacer with the pin on those Murray/Noma/Briggs the Pin goes through it and into the bigger hole. It keeps from cutting the pipe of the auger to snap the pin, the spacer takes the force and evenly distributes around the hole in the auger.
A washer under the head of the bolt would allow the pin to shear but where the hole is larger than the pin shaft it will likely break the pin too easily