have been watching a lot of your playlist for 'hobby cheating' today. I think less 'cheating' and more a refreshingly open approach to de-obsfuscating a skill. Thank you for being so generous
I'm no artist, and my limited knowledge and skills have only been bettered by the content in your vids... my figure painting (1/35s mostly) has vastly improved in a very short time due to your most excellent videos, explanations, and samples keep doing what you do, sir... in my opinion, yours is truly THE single most helpful channel on YT for figure painting, color exercises, and examples
...with GREEN? But that's a cold color! That can't...Wow! The Madman! It works! Now do *goes through spectrum wheel in his head* blue and purple! OH MY GOD, HE DOES IT!
I wasn't as surprised with green as I was with violet. If you look at the color wheel, using yellow to highlight green makes a lot of sense. Not so intuitive to me was the idea of using it to brighten violet! Awesome!
I'm really impressed. I kinda expected you to use some kind of cold secondary highlight tones for the colder spectrum of colors. I didn't expect the flesh tone to be so universally effective
I'd love to see you do a couple of videos to pair with your universal highlight and shadow entries, that cover universal cold highlights and warm shadows. Great video here Vince. Hope you're doing well!
Saw the title and instantly knew I was going to like this video. Recently I've been doing this a bit after I think watching something like the old hobby cheating red video? With all the talk of flesh tones as a warm highlight colour. Been loving using it for browns and reds, any sort of warm tone. Look forward to watching the vid and learning even more. Always love the content, keep up the great work.
This is a good demonstration of how naming conventions in miniature paints are guidelines rather than absolutes, everything still ultimately confers to the colour spectrum. Great tutorial, as usual :).
Last week I was painting reddish purple hair with violet shadows. Then for the highlight, to my surprise, I instinctively reached to such skin stone to mix in. Now I know that I can apply that to everything! Thank you Vince
Talk about the right advice at the right time. I've got a red project I've been putting off because I couldnt figure out the high highlights. Everything I tried in tests was too orange or too pink, and screwing up the deep red I'd established. Seeing that shield I was like 'holy shit that's it!' I owe you a beer cowboy! Thank you very very much.
Why had no one taught me this?! I’ve been struggling with either highlighting colors like red into oranges and yellows, or desaturating them with whites. This is so interesting and helpful, thanks Vince!
Lovely! I've been using light fleshtone in many color mixes but I was still slowly on my way to thinking of a more caucasian fleshtone for some mixes. I love the velvet feel of the purple, for sure! Thank you, Vince.
Wow! That's a real game changer, I can't believe how effective that is. I think this is going to really improve my highlights as I've always had really stark obvious blends and have always used white to mix.
You're a pro dude. Looking forward to getting an iowata airbrush for Christmas and getting started painting my Khorne and anvilguard armies soon! Going to be watching a heck of a lot more of your painting videos.
@@VinceVenturella Yeah man, I actually used this today. I find that the color "flat flesh" from Vallejo works a lot like sunny skin tone. BTW, I try to send anyone who asks about a subject to your channel. Thanks for the time you put into your stuff.
This was a fantastic video Vince, thank you so much! Do you have any plans to continue the series with other good universal highlight color combinations?
So Sunny Skintone IS the key to those smooth, creamy blends we're all after when highlighting! This is what I've been wondering and now can put that paint to good use too!
Sunny skin tone is a must have color for any modeling subject matter. It's probably my most used color. It works great for getting brighter highlights without completely desaturating the base color. I have versions of sunny skin tone in acrylic, oil and for airbrushing I prefer Tamiya paints. And so I use their flat flesh, which works the same. Also a great color substitute for white when it comes to zenithal pre shading
Great video mate . I have started collecting Vallejo metal colour so looking forward to try some out on my next Models as I have only used citadel up now 👍🏻👍🏻
Hey Vince, I'm very curious when you are going to be doing a universal shadow tutorial! I have been using this technique now and it is so mush smoother for highlighting and looks more natural! Thank you so much for the massive amount of influence you've had on the miniature painting community
Hey Vince, two questions, if you'd be so kind: 1) is Sunny Skin Tone a color we could zenithal highlight with, instead of white? And 2) is there an equivalent COOL universal highlight color?
Thhanks Vince. I recently moved to Ivory for highlighting up colours, but I will try to use your bolder approach with sunny skin tone next, seems really good from the Video.
Hi Vince, great stuff, as always. Mostly thanks to you I incorporated universal highlights a while ago to good results and have been experimenting with it quite a bit. When would you give a skintone the edge over something like Ice Yellow or an Ivory for example? I would love to hear your tgought process on this one. All the best!
It's just really about the environment of the piece. When you're setting the highlights, you are setting the color of the environment, so I am generally looking to match it to that. Sunny Skin Tone is just a nice highlight for your normal sunny day.
That red looks so violety compared to the orange. Highlighting red is still such a pain. Orange is easy, going green to yellow highlights look soo good
Hi Vince, if I had a model that was primarily blues/purples/and pinks. But I also have some black leather would using a sunny skin tone mixed into the first highlight of black/grey still be the way to go or would something like ice yellow be a better choice? Or should I stay in the neutral grey realm. I'd like to have some decent contrast on the black while not distracting from the other colors on the miniature. As always love your content.
ANy of those could work just fine, it's more about the environmental light you're going for. Frankly, you could use any or all of those colors across all 3 of those tones.
Just painted some purple flames you werent kidding. Purple is hard to blend! Now the question is do I go back and redo them with what I learned here lol.
That seems like a nice idea, and I'm eager to test it. One thing I don't understand, though: wouldn't adding an orange-ish color desaturate greens (due to the red component), blues and violet (due to the yellow component)? Is that deliberate? I mean, adding white would also desaturate in itself... On an unrelated note, I'm glad you're starting to use monopigments such as Kimera colors more, and appreciate them. When I switched to artist paints, it really helped me understand colors a lot more. The violet you mention, dioxazine violet, is the basis of basically every purple and violet you've ever seen (outside of magenta-ish colors, or very high profile oil paints), and it's usually heavily diluted with white in miniature paints (try looking at it on the palette near, say, hexed lychen). It's amazing, and I keep fiding more uses for it -- I love using it for a vibrant shade, especially on reds. The highly-pigmented Kimera version is probably even better.
It will desaturate the colors in a more natural way. What I mean by that is the white would not only desaturate, but it will also more strongly tint the color. So it's making the color much weaker. The skin tone desaturates, but it adds hue and richness, and doesn't necessarily make the tinting as strong.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you, this helps me understand. I'll look for some sacrificial model to use as guinea pig... Also, "tinting" was the word I was looking for, thanks for reminding me.
Vince thank you as always for a wonderful and enlightening video. I'll be honest, part of me hopes that your channel will explode in popularity so that you get the recognition you deserve. Yet part of me hopes that this does not happen because then you would not be able to reply to every comment anymore.
Hey Vince! Sorry to come into here one year after this video was published. I recently started painting minis and your videos have been invaluable! I bought some Vallejo Sunny Skin Tone follwing the advice in this video, but I noticed that it looks much more orange-red in real life compared to what shows on screen, where it reads more like a yellow with a bit of an orange undertone. I was wondering if this is just an issue with my screen, or if Vallejo maybe changed its formulation of this color? As it is, the color I bought seems not very well suited for highlighting, or application to any sort of sandy desert like I saw you do in your Tomb Kings chariot video.
They may have changed the formula (or that bottle could even be different, there are often variations in paint). In any event, any neutral to bright caucasian skin tone will work for this purpose from any producer.
Again another excellent video Vince. Thank you very much! How would you go if you wanted to have a cold highlight for your blue tho for let's say a moonlit scene for example?
So the same rules apply to other colors such as Ice Yellow or Glacier blue and that last one is the answer. You can use Glacier Blue in the same way with any color.
So nice. :) I have been using these flesh tones more and more, started out with using them on reds and browns. Now I will try it with everything. :) I started out using it for leather cause, well leather is skin so it felt like a thing :P
@@VinceVenturella Thanks! I was wondering about that. Vallejo seems a bit darker but that might be my monitor, I cant find AK in Japan for some reason.
This video was really helpful, thanks! I do have a quick somewhat related question. I bought the big box of all the Scale75 paints and it has for example 4 or 5 different reds. If you have access to something like that, would you tend to highlight with the different reds as they are in the bottles? Or pick a "base" red tone you like then mix in the sunny skin tone for highlights? I guess the core of the question is does this sunny skin tone method replace needing to buy the 5 different reds, or does it produce a vastly different result?
I would generally pick one of the reds in teh tone I want and mix in Sunny Skin Tone from there. There are different results, but this will be more true to environmental lighting.
Awesome, thanks, that helps. I've recently switched over from GW paints and the GW painting style and my biggest issue so far has been trying to learn how to deal with paints not coming as nice sets of base/shade/highlight/highlight.
What brand was the Phthalo Green? Was that a mini/hobby paint or a artist paint? I've got a soon to be green dragon that may need that as a base coat. BTW another great video Vince! (I see why Dana Howl always uses pale sand).
Great vid! Thx! Question- would this work with grays, pinks, or metals? I plan to try this but thought you might have done this already! Also who makes the best skin tone paint to do this with? Thx for help!
Grays, Pinks yes, metals, no. Mixing matte paints with metals isn't going to really end well for highlights (you can do it for shadows). Anything like Sunny Skin tone will work fine.
Was there ever a follow up on this about a cool universal highlight color? I want to paint a cool dark bley (bluish grey) cloak and I have no idea what would be a good color to mix in with the base to create the highlights..
I don’t think Sunny Skin is orange/white, I think it’s a more complicated mix of colors which is why it’s opaque and adds to all the other ones. I actually think it’s a sort of brown.
So I an mix a similar color out of basically orange and white. The key with skin tones is that they are mixed from Red, White, Blue and Yellow. Umbers can come into the mix certainly, especially when mixing darker skin tones.
@@VinceVenturella - Bear with me as I'm trying to figure out how to explain this and please correct me if my conclusion is poor. When I re-started hobby painting 3-4 years ago, I refused to buy skin tone pots/bottles due to them being so expensive, so as you say, I gradually mixed up the primaries and white in order to paint that old school warhammer skin layering style, from a dark chocolate basecoat all the way up to pale flesh highlights (no umbers used, RBY already mixes into brown and then I go up from there in brightness). I also started painting an army in orange and from that I've learned a ton about how to apply it and how opacity works across warmer pigments. In order to layer orange, I often use tan or light brown as a between layer on top of dark colors or black in order to skip layers up to orange. So here's the split, because you're of course right in that when you look at the bottle under your lamp, it looks almost peach (orange + white), but it doesn't behave like any orange and white that I've ever mixed, which are two of the worst covering pigments we have. Here's what I did; A "hack" that I personally use for skin now is to mix bone (screaming skull) and a tiny bit of red for a quick pink'ish skin basecoat that I can wash and highlight. If I mix red/yellow (to get that awful mustard'y orange) and I add screaming skull to that, I get the exact slightly tanned skin that your thumbnail picture has of Sunny Skin. How to get bone? All primaries plus a bunch of white, which is why I think bone colors dry out and crumble so quickly - there's a high pigment to medium ratio in it. I could well be overcomplicating this, but this way it makes sense to me why it covers well on its own and why it adds so well to other pigments.
Yes, sunny skin tone for everything except the yellow, which was light flesh. But you can also use light flesh instead of a white for your highest highlights with all of them.
Your content is better than actual art school. These videos help so much!
Thank you, I very much appreciate that.
have been watching a lot of your playlist for 'hobby cheating' today. I think less 'cheating' and more a refreshingly open approach to de-obsfuscating a skill. Thank you for being so generous
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
I'm no artist, and my limited knowledge and skills have only been bettered by the content in your vids...
my figure painting (1/35s mostly) has vastly improved in a very short time due to your most excellent videos, explanations, and samples
keep doing what you do, sir... in my opinion, yours is truly THE single most helpful channel on YT for figure painting, color exercises, and examples
That is awesome! Thank you. :)
...with GREEN? But that's a cold color! That can't...Wow! The Madman! It works! Now do *goes through spectrum wheel in his head* blue and purple! OH MY GOD, HE DOES IT!
Indeed, it works for everything. ;)
I wasn't as surprised with green as I was with violet. If you look at the color wheel, using yellow to highlight green makes a lot of sense. Not so intuitive to me was the idea of using it to brighten violet!
Awesome!
@@bpronka In this case, the red parts of the orange blend well with the violet. Because of course they would.
They call Vince a painting wizard, finally he gives us some of that magic. Won't say I fully understand but can't argue one bit with the results.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
After Jon mentioned this on Trapped Under Plastic, I’m happy to see an in depth example like this.
Yes, I thought that was ironic when I watched Jon's video and knew this was scheduled out. :)
Same
"You're my boy, blue" - Now that's what I call painting Old School!!
Love this. ;)
Pro tip: you can watch series at Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching all kinds of movies these days.
@@maxwellonyx9559 Thanks, I'll check it out.
@Maxwell Onyx yup, I have been watching on flixzone for since december myself :)
@Maxwell Onyx Yea, been using flixzone for years myself :D
This is pure genius. Flesh tone to highlight. Mind blown. 💥💥💥 I learn so much from these hobby cheating videos.
Awesome, happy to assist.
One of your more mind-blowing videos. Thanks Vince!
I'm really impressed. I kinda expected you to use some kind of cold secondary highlight tones for the colder spectrum of colors. I didn't expect the flesh tone to be so universally effective
Yep, it just works with everything. :)
Man this has opened up some amazing possibilities! I cant wait to grab a brush after work and try this. Thank you for these videos.
Happy to help!
I'd love to see you do a couple of videos to pair with your universal highlight and shadow entries, that cover universal cold highlights and warm shadows. Great video here Vince. Hope you're doing well!
Great idea!
The purple blend was crazy good! Thanks so much for another great video 👊
Glad you liked it!!
Saw the title and instantly knew I was going to like this video.
Recently I've been doing this a bit after I think watching something like the old hobby cheating red video? With all the talk of flesh tones as a warm highlight colour.
Been loving using it for browns and reds, any sort of warm tone. Look forward to watching the vid and learning even more.
Always love the content, keep up the great work.
Thank you, always happy to help. ;)
Never would have thought to do this...amazing! Thank you for sharing with us!
Glad it was helpful!
I’m really loving your work! Thanks for everything you do!
Glad you enjoy it!
This is a good demonstration of how naming conventions in miniature paints are guidelines rather than absolutes, everything still ultimately confers to the colour spectrum. Great tutorial, as usual :).
Glad it was helpful!
Yet another great video! I never thought of highlighting anything with colors anywhere near this!
Glad it was helpful!
Blowing my mind here. Need to try this some time.
Awesome, always happy to help. :)
Vince, you are an international treasure. As always, thank you
My pleasure! :)
Last week I was painting reddish purple hair with violet shadows. Then for the highlight, to my surprise, I instinctively reached to such skin stone to mix in.
Now I know that I can apply that to everything!
Thank you Vince
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Vince, you’ve officially BLEW MY MIND with this one.
Always happy to help. :)
Your my boy blue! Cracked me up. Good video as usual Vince. 👍
Glad you enjoyed :)
I have always struggled with highlighting my miniatures and I am so excited to try this out! Thank you so much for the information :)
Glad it was helpful!
Wow, ok. That made highlighting purple and blending it so much easier. Thanks, you really deserve to have more views!
Glad it helped! :)
Great video! "your my boy blue!"
Got both colors and never tried that ! Thanks I will certainly do now :)
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Dude these videos are super helpful thank you!
Happy to help!
Talk about the right advice at the right time. I've got a red project I've been putting off because I couldnt figure out the high highlights. Everything I tried in tests was too orange or too pink, and screwing up the deep red I'd established. Seeing that shield I was like 'holy shit that's it!'
I owe you a beer cowboy! Thank you very very much.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
I've used Light Flesh for blending/highlighting purples before but never thought to try it on any other colors. Love these videos!
You are welcome! :)
Why had no one taught me this?! I’ve been struggling with either highlighting colors like red into oranges and yellows, or desaturating them with whites. This is so interesting and helpful, thanks Vince!
Glad I could help!
Amazing video, I learn so much from you. Thanks Vince!!
Glad to hear it!
Lovely! I've been using light fleshtone in many color mixes but I was still slowly on my way to thinking of a more caucasian fleshtone for some mixes. I love the velvet feel of the purple, for sure! Thank you, Vince.
Glad it was helpful!
Eye opening. Love those smooth transitions!
Glad you liked it!
Yup. Sunny Skintone is a great go-to. Also incredible "works everywhere" highlight colors? VMC Ice Yellow and VMC Deck Tan/ Scale Nacar.
Yep, all great, I would also add glacier blue to the mix.
Fantastic info as always. A true painting pioneer.
Thank you. :)
I really like your colours studies/examples Vince. Please keep this up! (and carry on the secondary colour exploration series as well :D )
Thanks, will do!
Wow! That's a real game changer, I can't believe how effective that is. I think this is going to really improve my highlights as I've always had really stark obvious blends and have always used white to mix.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you sir. You're a wizard. This helps me a bunch on some upcoming projects.
Glad to help
Fantastic info. I'm going to try it out immediately! Thanks again Vince!
Always happy to help.
@@VinceVenturella Your videos have inspired me to restart painting after 25 years. I hope you realize how much your videos mean to some people.
@@mrsoylentgreen79 Thank you, that means a great deal to me and I am always happy to help.
This was incredibly helpful! Thanks so much, Vince!
Glad it was helpful!
You're a pro dude. Looking forward to getting an iowata airbrush for Christmas and getting started painting my Khorne and anvilguard armies soon! Going to be watching a heck of a lot more of your painting videos.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Thanks again for the content! Always a great resource.
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@VinceVenturella Yeah man, I actually used this today. I find that the color "flat flesh" from Vallejo works a lot like sunny skin tone. BTW, I try to send anyone who asks about a subject to your channel. Thanks for the time you put into your stuff.
Kimera paints are so great to mix with!
They are! Just really a pleasure honestly.
This was a fantastic video Vince, thank you so much! Do you have any plans to continue the series with other good universal highlight color combinations?
Yep, I want to cover this in more detail in the future.
That is some wonderful looking blue, now i know what i want to do with that large scarf.
Yep, these kinds of blends can be great for cloth.
Great recommendation!
About to work on some purple cloaks so this is really helpful!
Excellent, happy to help. ;)
So Sunny Skintone IS the key to those smooth, creamy blends we're all after when highlighting! This is what I've been wondering and now can put that paint to good use too!
Happy to help. :)
Sunny skin tone is a must have color for any modeling subject matter. It's probably my most used color. It works great for getting brighter highlights without completely desaturating the base color. I have versions of sunny skin tone in acrylic, oil and for airbrushing I prefer Tamiya paints. And so I use their flat flesh, which works the same. Also a great color substitute for white when it comes to zenithal pre shading
Agreed on all counts. :)
@@VinceVenturella Used more than Ice Yellow?
Sunny Skintone came in a Vallejo WW2 German set and now I know what to use it for. Thanks Vince!
Always happy to help. :)
Thank you so much Vince! Nice tips and demostrations! :D
My pleasure!
I am amazed thanks.
Glad you liked it! :)
I love the Old School reference
Heading to the Quad later. :)
Awesome! Great to see this, I learn so much from your vids
Glad to hear it! Always happy to help. :)
Brilliant, as always! Will have to give this a try
Always happy to help. :)
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it. :)
Now that is a very useful video, thank you for that one!
Glad it was helpful!
I've been using AKs Ice Yellow for highlighting everything and it's been working a treat.
Yep, that's another color that can fill this same purpose for sure. :)
funny, just what i did with my squigs. flat red as main color and flat + sunny as drybrush highlight. looking goooood
Yep, it's just a wonderful natural highlight.
You are the goat, sir
Thanks!
Great video mate . I have started collecting Vallejo metal colour so looking forward to try some out on my next Models as I have only used citadel up now 👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome, it's a big change. :)
Hey Vince, I'm very curious when you are going to be doing a universal shadow tutorial! I have been using this technique now and it is so mush smoother for highlighting and looks more natural!
Thank you so much for the massive amount of influence you've had on the miniature painting community
You won't have to wait long at all. :)
@@VinceVenturella oh snap...
Thank you Vince!! Truly a revelation for me in my miniature painting journey!!
Glad it was helpful!
Wow! Sunny skin tone looks like a great tool
Yep, it's such a wonderful color.
Great stuff friend, you have taught me so much 🤙😎
Glad to help
Hey Vince, two questions, if you'd be so kind: 1) is Sunny Skin Tone a color we could zenithal highlight with, instead of white? And 2) is there an equivalent COOL universal highlight color?
1) yes
2) glacier blue
Thank you very much. Love this tutorial
You're very welcome!
Wow... I need to do this
It's wonderful for sure. :)
Thhanks Vince. I recently moved to Ivory for highlighting up colours, but I will try to use your bolder approach with sunny skin tone next, seems really good from the Video.
Glad it was helpful!
Thnx again vince. Good information!
My pleasure!
Using oil paints I just kind of naturally progressed to a naples yellow as my universal highlight so glad im not crazy
Not at all. :)
Hi Vince, great stuff, as always. Mostly thanks to you I incorporated universal highlights a while ago to good results and have been experimenting with it quite a bit. When would you give a skintone the edge over something like Ice Yellow or an Ivory for example? I would love to hear your tgought process on this one. All the best!
It's just really about the environment of the piece. When you're setting the highlights, you are setting the color of the environment, so I am generally looking to match it to that. Sunny Skin Tone is just a nice highlight for your normal sunny day.
That red looks so violety compared to the orange. Highlighting red is still such a pain. Orange is easy, going green to yellow highlights look soo good
Well, this was still the red mixed in, of course you could undercoat it with the light flesh if you want to maintain a true red.
Very nice effect, Vince.
Glad you like it!
This is awesome, thanks for this!
No problem! :)
omg, I intuited something! I do this!
Awesome, happy to help and glad you're already on the train. :)
Hi Vince, if I had a model that was primarily blues/purples/and pinks. But I also have some black leather would using a sunny skin tone mixed into the first highlight of black/grey still be the way to go or would something like ice yellow be a better choice? Or should I stay in the neutral grey realm. I'd like to have some decent contrast on the black while not distracting from the other colors on the miniature.
As always love your content.
ANy of those could work just fine, it's more about the environmental light you're going for. Frankly, you could use any or all of those colors across all 3 of those tones.
Just painted some purple flames you werent kidding. Purple is hard to blend! Now the question is do I go back and redo them with what I learned here lol.
Well, there are always future miniatures. :)
That seems like a nice idea, and I'm eager to test it.
One thing I don't understand, though: wouldn't adding an orange-ish color desaturate greens (due to the red component), blues and violet (due to the yellow component)? Is that deliberate? I mean, adding white would also desaturate in itself...
On an unrelated note, I'm glad you're starting to use monopigments such as Kimera colors more, and appreciate them. When I switched to artist paints, it really helped me understand colors a lot more.
The violet you mention, dioxazine violet, is the basis of basically every purple and violet you've ever seen (outside of magenta-ish colors, or very high profile oil paints), and it's usually heavily diluted with white in miniature paints (try looking at it on the palette near, say, hexed lychen). It's amazing, and I keep fiding more uses for it -- I love using it for a vibrant shade, especially on reds. The highly-pigmented Kimera version is probably even better.
It will desaturate the colors in a more natural way. What I mean by that is the white would not only desaturate, but it will also more strongly tint the color. So it's making the color much weaker. The skin tone desaturates, but it adds hue and richness, and doesn't necessarily make the tinting as strong.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you, this helps me understand. I'll look for some sacrificial model to use as guinea pig... Also, "tinting" was the word I was looking for, thanks for reminding me.
Now, Juan Hidalgo has no reason to hate the color blue!! 😄
Exactly, I await his inevitable turnaround on blue. :)
thanks vince, i just happen to be doing the hair for skaeth's wild hunt (underworlds gang), i'll give it a try.
Fantastic, always happy when people can put it to use.
I have been teached! Tnx
Happy to help Dicey. :)
Vince thank you as always for a wonderful and enlightening video.
I'll be honest, part of me hopes that your channel will explode in popularity so that you get the recognition you deserve. Yet part of me hopes that this does not happen because then you would not be able to reply to every comment anymore.
That's funny, don't worry, I will always do my best to reply to everything. :)
I have the same fear and hope LOL
Hey Vince! Sorry to come into here one year after this video was published. I recently started painting minis and your videos have been invaluable! I bought some Vallejo Sunny Skin Tone follwing the advice in this video, but I noticed that it looks much more orange-red in real life compared to what shows on screen, where it reads more like a yellow with a bit of an orange undertone. I was wondering if this is just an issue with my screen, or if Vallejo maybe changed its formulation of this color? As it is, the color I bought seems not very well suited for highlighting, or application to any sort of sandy desert like I saw you do in your Tomb Kings chariot video.
They may have changed the formula (or that bottle could even be different, there are often variations in paint). In any event, any neutral to bright caucasian skin tone will work for this purpose from any producer.
Sapere aude. Great stuff
Thank you, happy to help. :)
And now we are waiting for the universal shading color video. :-)
It will be coming. :)
Came here for this
@@VinceVenturella It's so gonna be Payne's Grey and we know it... ;)
Great video. Did you make a video for a universal "Shadow" color?
Yep - ruclips.net/video/cD3bahZd_Nw/видео.html
great vid
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Again another excellent video Vince. Thank you very much! How would you go if you wanted to have a cold highlight for your blue tho for let's say a moonlit scene for example?
So the same rules apply to other colors such as Ice Yellow or Glacier blue and that last one is the answer. You can use Glacier Blue in the same way with any color.
@@VinceVenturella Oh, this is interesting. Makes the tip in this video even more useful.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks!
So nice. :)
I have been using these flesh tones more and more, started out with using them on reds and browns. Now I will try it with everything. :)
I started out using it for leather cause, well leather is skin so it felt like a thing :P
Awesome, yeah, it's so multipurpose. :)
Well, this was absolutely invaluable. Time to go get some AK in my collection. Well, one colour at least perhaps. 🤣
Yep, if that's tough, you can also do Sunny Skin Tone from Vallejo.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks! I was wondering about that. Vallejo seems a bit darker but that might be my monitor, I cant find AK in Japan for some reason.
This video was really helpful, thanks! I do have a quick somewhat related question. I bought the big box of all the Scale75 paints and it has for example 4 or 5 different reds. If you have access to something like that, would you tend to highlight with the different reds as they are in the bottles? Or pick a "base" red tone you like then mix in the sunny skin tone for highlights? I guess the core of the question is does this sunny skin tone method replace needing to buy the 5 different reds, or does it produce a vastly different result?
I would generally pick one of the reds in teh tone I want and mix in Sunny Skin Tone from there. There are different results, but this will be more true to environmental lighting.
Awesome, thanks, that helps. I've recently switched over from GW paints and the GW painting style and my biggest issue so far has been trying to learn how to deal with paints not coming as nice sets of base/shade/highlight/highlight.
love the video, and I now have sunny skin tone on my shopping list! what's the purple that you use in the video though?
Kimera Violet.
@@VinceVenturella ah thanks vince. Is it pretty similar to Vallejo Violet?
@@willroberts2152 CLose-ish, its more intense and it's single pigment, but something like Vallejo Royal Purple would be close enough.
@@VinceVenturella much appreciated, thanks. I'll try Royal Purple 🙂
What brand was the Phthalo Green? Was that a mini/hobby paint or a artist paint? I've got a soon to be green dragon that may need that as a base coat. BTW another great video Vince! (I see why Dana Howl always uses pale sand).
Kimera and happy to help. :)
Could you recommend an alternative for those of us that no longer want to buy AK products?
Vallejo is one of the 2 he uses in the video and they make both of those colors as well. In their Model Color line
Absolutely, So Vallejo also makes Sunny Skin Tone and that is great. Pro Acryl also makes a similar skin tone.
Great vid! Thx! Question- would this work with grays, pinks, or metals? I plan to try this but thought you might have done this already! Also who makes the best skin tone paint to do this with? Thx for help!
Grays, Pinks yes, metals, no. Mixing matte paints with metals isn't going to really end well for highlights (you can do it for shadows). Anything like Sunny Skin tone will work fine.
Was there ever a follow up on this about a cool universal highlight color? I want to paint a cool dark bley (bluish grey) cloak and I have no idea what would be a good color to mix in with the base to create the highlights..
Glacier Blue is basically the same thing here, but I need to do a video for sure.
I don’t think Sunny Skin is orange/white, I think it’s a more complicated mix of colors which is why it’s opaque and adds to all the other ones.
I actually think it’s a sort of brown.
So I an mix a similar color out of basically orange and white. The key with skin tones is that they are mixed from Red, White, Blue and Yellow. Umbers can come into the mix certainly, especially when mixing darker skin tones.
@@VinceVenturella - Bear with me as I'm trying to figure out how to explain this and please correct me if my conclusion is poor.
When I re-started hobby painting 3-4 years ago, I refused to buy skin tone pots/bottles due to them being so expensive, so as you say, I gradually mixed up the primaries and white in order to paint that old school warhammer skin layering style, from a dark chocolate basecoat all the way up to pale flesh highlights (no umbers used, RBY already mixes into brown and then I go up from there in brightness).
I also started painting an army in orange and from that I've learned a ton about how to apply it and how opacity works across warmer pigments.
In order to layer orange, I often use tan or light brown as a between layer on top of dark colors or black in order to skip layers up to orange.
So here's the split, because you're of course right in that when you look at the bottle under your lamp, it looks almost peach (orange + white), but it doesn't behave like any orange and white that I've ever mixed, which are two of the worst covering pigments we have.
Here's what I did; A "hack" that I personally use for skin now is to mix bone (screaming skull) and a tiny bit of red for a quick pink'ish skin basecoat that I can wash and highlight. If I mix red/yellow (to get that awful mustard'y orange) and I add screaming skull to that, I get the exact slightly tanned skin that your thumbnail picture has of Sunny Skin.
How to get bone? All primaries plus a bunch of white, which is why I think bone colors dry out and crumble so quickly - there's a high pigment to medium ratio in it.
I could well be overcomplicating this, but this way it makes sense to me why it covers well on its own and why it adds so well to other pigments.
Did you use Sunny skin for all of the examples? Is there a Vallejo equivalent as the light flesh is much lighter? Or does it do the exact same thing?
Yes, sunny skin tone for everything except the yellow, which was light flesh. But you can also use light flesh instead of a white for your highest highlights with all of them.