So my battery has been over charged (by putting it on a standard battery charger), the voltage has now been drained down to 11v and charged back up to the voltage shown in your video , but the cut out stays open so I don't get a voltage through to the terminals. How do I reset the cut out? Ok, ignore that message, I have read through the comments and after disconnecting the 2 white plugs on the left hand side for a couple of mins, full power has been restored. Thanks for all the information, definitely the best video on this battery on the Internet. by the way I am only using the battery for powering a fridge when camping ,so I am not sure if the disconnecting counter will affect it
Multumesc de info. Fix lucrarea asta vroiam sa o fac dar am zis sa caut prima data poate a facut cineva acelas lucru. De azi ai un nou urmaritor! 👍Te salut! ✌️
Hi hope all is well man, thank you for your video , i have a 2015 M4 with the exact same batterie because of an extended trip due to corona I come bacK to my car with a dead batterie. Now i ll start the rescue process , was wondering if I could recharge the batterie with anything or do i need the noco genius ? I’ll have to open the batterie and charge it directly
Very useful video! About the charging mode you've mentioned in the video, what is the different between AGM battery charging mode and Li-thium battery charging mode?
Hello . the charging program of a car with agm battery can have voltage peaks of up to 15 volts , which will activate the protection of a lithium ion battery
I followed all the steps , I’m getting 14 bolts on the terminals and where you put your power supply , but I’m only getting continuity in the actual cells
Just a quick question. Do you think adding 12 volts with a jumper pack would be able to activate the battery again? Or do you need to charge it with a special charger?
Yes, with the condition that the jumper pack has a permanent ouput 12 volts, not to turn on 12 volts only if it detects that it is connected to a battery
When I open my battery and test the cells I show 13.3 volts but the BMS circuit is open and the battery posts show 0 volts. I tried the method shown here but the BMS circuit doesn't change I assume because the cells are already charged. This is the original battery from 2016 the vehicle was always kept indoors in a climate controlled environment. Did my battery just expire?
Try to disconnect all the plugs leave it for 15 minutes and reconnect them back , if nothing happened after that, connect a battery charger directly to the terminals ( from outside) first check that your charger will have voltage (some wont start to charge until will detect a battery voltage if this is the case that is not good for this)
Hello . I explained in the clip if the battery is in protection , the cells will no longer receive power from the terminals, you will have to charge them directly
Thanks for the great video. My ISTA showing I have issue with isolation switch since very long time. car runs fine for 2 years now. is it possible to just change the isolation switch or I need to change the whole battery? do you have the part number for it? much appreciated
Good video and very useful. Got my m5 after accident. Charged the battery the same way. Everything works fine, but... I have an annoying DME error "Battery Fault". Is there any solution how to fix it?
Hello! at this moment the only solution is a new battery! maybe in the future someone will study and develop a way to restore the memory and write the BMS .
God point! I didn't play with it, but I have think about it, to be able to restore the battery will need to be reflashed , now depending on what processor or memory it has and if it is protected or not to read and writhe . Ideally ( of course if is not protected) it is to read a good one preferably new and used that dump to reflash the old ones, an with that you can compare the two to see what and where is the difference in order to manually reset it . I'm pretty sure that every time the battery will be disconnected/discharged inside the memory will be something written and I think it has a number of disconnections and after that will permanently send messages in instruments that need to be replaced
@@MOvidiu I have exactly this issue. I had a car which was dead for 6 months, I recovered all the cells, and the battery is fine. The only issue is that BMS is sending a message to my car to replace the battery. I thought about the exact same way, get a good battery, and read the flash. Write the flash to the old battery to stop the annoying iDrive message. I spoke with a few people, and some said to buy a new battery, it is not worth the risk. IMO if you know what you are doing, there is no risk. They said my car would blow up if I started to play with the battery like that:) I don't think they actually tried what we are discussing here, but I feel this could be a valid way. I am currently looking for another dead battery from the BMW M5 to see if the flash can be read.
@@adrianmierzwinski9262 The cars are blowing up only in movies, by reseting the counter won't affect the monitoring of the voltages, if you are able to read it please let me know!
@@MOvidiu I will keep you posted. Everybody I speak with is against it, and the only fix they have for those batteries is what you presented in the video. I am sure more can be done as this is just a software thing to rest the counter.
I did the same procedure and the relay is still inactive, I added direct charge to the cells before the relay and the battery has already reached 13.05 v and the relay does not activate, what can I do?
Question so I was able to charge my lithium battery cells up to 13v from using your instructions in the video. I heard click from the sensor but im still nothing voltage on the battery terminals themselves
Hi. My m3 won’t start after parked for 3 weeks. Try charging it everyway I can think of. In and out of the car. Lithium charger saw the battery and show it start charging but the next day it stopped and can’t see the battery. Saw your video and open it up. My issue is. It reads 13.50 and 0 at the post. I can’t get the the protection relay to reconnect. I try the ctek reset and it won’t work. I saw somewhere that the relay switch says open if it’s over charge?? Any suggestions? At this moment I’m trying to use a source to bring the voltage down and see. Thank you.
@@erez_bmwm7539 yes I did. Reset the battery by opening it up. But unfortunately I think when I jump the car in the beginning I burn out my rear control module. I was driving it around with no parking sensors and rear windows etc. I got a new module but a bmw specialist mechanic couldn’t get in to program it. So had no choice to take it the dealer. Of course told them what it was and all. Still wanted to charge me diagnostic fee and install the module fee and then programming charge. What can you do. All that and parts was same price for the battery. Guess I’m lucky to be able to save the battery. If the dealer saw it first I know they would charge me for a new battery.
I charged the terminals voltage is almost 14 and this relay is still open and i dont get power on top what else it could be or how could i close the relay if anyone could help would be awesome.!
The voltage is good, but that doesn't mean that your contact switch will need to be closed, it the battery have a lot's of opening because of low or over voltage, the contact won't open anymore, in that case you'll need a new battery
Am un fault : Battery isolating switch, starter battery faulty .. Mașina primește rău .. câteodată se oprește .. la a doua pornire merge .. mi se pare ciudat ca o baterie LI Ion sa tine doar 3 ani .. mă gândesc că nu sunt celulele ci probabil switchul sau BMS ? Nu se pot cumpăra de nicăieri ?
Salut , vei avea nevoie de o baterie noua , posibil ca bateria sa fi cedat din cauza exploatarii necoresunzatoare posibil sa fi avut multe descarcari ( masina stationata pe perioade lungi )
Please I need your help. I bought the battery last year . And I did not start the car for 1 year. Now I charged the cells .(inside I have 13v) the terminal still 0v
Bună! îmi plac mult clipurile este de ajutor. imi puteti comunica unde este locatia dv si daca se pot face programari pentru o lucrare serioasa la un BMW. mulțumesc!
I unplugged the white connectors for 20 mins and then when i plugged them back in i heard a loud click and have 13.2v on the terminals. Put the battery back in the car but now have a warning message straight up on the car saying “electrical power supply” risk to electrical power supply do not switch off engine. The windows wont work but the car starts and some of the dials have not come on? Anyone had these issues?
When you have a problem with your car, the first thing is to do a diagnosis !!! Not asking strangers what could be , because these cars are not like the ones built in the 80s, that had 3 wires and for every problem could have 1 or 3 defects .
@@MOvidiu I have run full diagnostics on the car and the battery itself produced codes 304 and 305 showing battery aged and faulty. The battery holds a steady 12.8v but I guess the control module is broken. This is why I asked as you seemed to be expert on these batteries and could have suggested a fix?
I did like on your video and lithium charger says battery is good and charged. But still not power on the top! I’m removed all plugs and still not help. I did buy pass,straight line and after isolating switch started clinking!!!! Taken off buy pass and still no power on the top
Hello Roman I'm sorry to hear that you failed to bring it back to life, it may be a defective internal module or it may be permanently blocked due to many disconnections
Ok I put battery back to the car and put jump box to start the car and car doesn’t start because other problem was. Then I take off jump box and battery awoke. Now everything perfect. Thank you man,!!
You save my life! Thank you so much for this information. I bought my car at the auction battery was dead..13.3v sweet
Great to hear!
How much was a new battery ?
So my battery has been over charged (by putting it on a standard battery charger), the voltage has now been drained down to 11v and charged back up to the voltage shown in your video , but the cut out stays open so I don't get a voltage through to the terminals. How do I reset the cut out?
Ok, ignore that message, I have read through the comments and after disconnecting the 2 white plugs on the left hand side for a couple of mins, full power has been restored.
Thanks for all the information, definitely the best video on this battery on the Internet.
by the way I am only using the battery for powering a fridge when camping ,so I am not sure if the disconnecting counter will affect it
which 2 white plugs ?
Multumesc de info. Fix lucrarea asta vroiam sa o fac dar am zis sa caut prima data poate a facut cineva acelas lucru. De azi ai un nou urmaritor! 👍Te salut! ✌️
Super tare!
Hello, when you are using your power supply to charge the battery, how many watts was it?
Thanks awesome video
Thank you for this video brother, you helped me recover my battery.
God bless
Help! My battery is charged to 13 volts and the isolation switch has not closed yet, how long should i wait? Is there anything else i should be doing?
Any news here?
You have to unplug all of the connections to the switch and module to make it restart and re-read
Hello, Im not understanding how to set up the power supply. can you please send me more information. Thank you.
Hi hope all is well man, thank you for your video , i have a 2015 M4 with the exact same batterie because of an extended trip due to corona I come bacK to my car with a dead batterie.
Now i ll start the rescue process , was wondering if I could recharge the batterie with anything or do i need the noco genius ? I’ll have to open the batterie and charge it directly
Very useful video! About the charging mode you've mentioned in the video, what is the different between AGM battery charging mode and Li-thium battery charging mode?
Hello . the charging program of a car with agm battery can have voltage peaks of up to 15 volts , which will activate the protection of a lithium ion battery
I tried to charge my lithium battery with a normal charger, so the protection must be activated now? And can recharge it with lifePo4 smart charger?
thanks for the useful information great work.
I followed all the steps , I’m getting 14 bolts on the terminals and where you put your power supply , but I’m only getting continuity in the actual cells
The tools to open the battery?
Can I charge it up with lithium iron battery tender/trickle charger?
Just a quick question. Do you think adding 12 volts with a jumper pack would be able to activate the battery again? Or do you need to charge it with a special charger?
Yes, with the condition that the jumper pack has a permanent ouput 12 volts, not to turn on 12 volts only if it detects that it is connected to a battery
When I open my battery and test the cells I show 13.3 volts but the BMS circuit is open and the battery posts show 0 volts. I tried the method shown here but the BMS circuit doesn't change I assume because the cells are already charged. This is the original battery from 2016 the vehicle was always kept indoors in a climate controlled environment. Did my battery just expire?
Try to disconnect all the plugs leave it for 15 minutes and reconnect them back , if nothing happened after that, connect a battery charger directly to the terminals ( from outside) first check that your charger will have voltage (some wont start to charge until will detect a battery voltage if this is the case that is not good for this)
Hi this is really helpful but I can't understand why you removed the case to charge the battery? Can't this be done with the case on?
Hello . I explained in the clip if the battery is in protection , the cells will no longer receive power from the terminals, you will have to charge them directly
What are the cells in side these units 18650 ?
Thanks for the great video. My ISTA showing I have issue with isolation switch since very long time. car runs fine for 2 years now. is it possible to just change the isolation switch or I need to change the whole battery? do you have the part number for it? much appreciated
Hello ! you will have to replace the battery, the isolation switch is part of the battery ,you will not find it separately.
@@MOvidiu thanks alot, what if I got it from other dead battery? I mean is it replaceable?
Hey bro, did you fix your battery in the end?
@@erez_bmwm7539 actually, I managed to get the isolation switches and I replaced them. Battery running super great!
Hi, thank you for video.
I have a question can you tell me if I can buy somewhere IBS for F90 buttery ?
Or how can I fix it.
Thank you .
Hey bro did you fix your battery in the end?
So the only way to get the annoying Error Code on the Dash away is a new batterie right?
Good video and very useful.
Got my m5 after accident. Charged the battery the same way. Everything works fine, but... I have an annoying DME error "Battery Fault". Is there any solution how to fix it?
Hello! at this moment the only solution is a new battery! maybe in the future someone will study and develop a way to restore the memory and write the BMS .
Hi man i got an f82 is there anyways u can explain how did u charge the cells?did u use a battery charger?
Did you find a fix for it? I have the same issue but with F82
Salut Ovidiu , cu cat trebuie sa incarce alternatorul o baterie lithium pe un bmw f90 ?
Maxim 14v
@@MOvidiudeci 13.4-13.6 e in parametrii sa nu imi fac griji ?
I saved my battery!! Thank you !!!
It's LEV60F LiFePo4 cells
hello, do you restore porsche and volvo lithium battery too?
Hello! until this moment I didn't work on other type of battery's
Hi, maybe someone find solution with error "Battery Fault" after recharge battery ? Thanks
Hi I've done everything like in video. The voltage in my battery is over 13V but the swich is still open, what should I do ?
the car is after crash and the voltage was 0,2V per cell before charging
Have you ever tried to play with the 'Battery Electronics Module'? Is it possible to replace it/flash/reset it?
God point! I didn't play with it, but I have think about it, to be able to restore the battery will need to be reflashed , now depending on what processor or memory it has and if it is protected or not to read and writhe . Ideally ( of course if is not protected) it is to read a good one preferably new and used that dump to reflash the old ones, an with that you can compare the two to see what and where is the difference in order to manually reset it . I'm pretty sure that every time the battery will be disconnected/discharged inside the memory will be something written and I think it has a number of disconnections and after that will permanently send messages in instruments that need to be replaced
@@MOvidiu I have exactly this issue. I had a car which was dead for 6 months, I recovered all the cells, and the battery is fine. The only issue is that BMS is sending a message to my car to replace the battery.
I thought about the exact same way, get a good battery, and read the flash. Write the flash to the old battery to stop the annoying iDrive message.
I spoke with a few people, and some said to buy a new battery, it is not worth the risk. IMO if you know what you are doing, there is no risk. They said my car would blow up if I started to play with the battery like that:)
I don't think they actually tried what we are discussing here, but I feel this could be a valid way. I am currently looking for another dead battery from the BMW M5 to see if the flash can be read.
@@adrianmierzwinski9262 The cars are blowing up only in movies, by reseting the counter won't affect the monitoring of the voltages, if you are able to read it please let me know!
@@MOvidiu I will keep you posted. Everybody I speak with is against it, and the only fix they have for those batteries is what you presented in the video. I am sure more can be done as this is just a software thing to rest the counter.
@@adrianmierzwinski9262 please update did you manage to solve the idrive message disapear
Si può ricaricare la bmw 30 li ion per m4???
I did the same procedure and the relay is still inactive, I added direct charge to the cells before the relay and the battery has already reached 13.05 v and the relay does not activate, what can I do?
Any news here?
My charger batterie ctek lithium xs is good
If you have an over voltage situation and the isolating switch opens, how do you close it again?
Hello, will close automatically after the voltage return to normal, if you heave repetitive high voltage spikes it is possible to remain open
i followed the procedure and fixed 2 battery but 1 battery is keep showing fully charged but no voltage
Prøv at ta de hvide stik a.. det hjalp mig
I have the same issue
Can you do this on a G8x?
Hey bro, did you fix your battery in the end?
Question so I was able to charge my lithium battery cells up to 13v from using your instructions in the video. I heard click from the sensor but im still nothing voltage on the battery terminals themselves
Battery 🔋 is back up and running thanks to your page
@@andrezachary7951 Any news here? how long to charge to hear something ?
Everything work perfectly 👌
@@andrezachary7951 just dismount it like in the video and charged the battery thats all? How long did you charge it ?
@@Abdulx33 I let it charge overnight
Hi. My m3 won’t start after parked for 3 weeks. Try charging it everyway I can think of. In and out of the car. Lithium charger saw the battery and show it start charging but the next day it stopped and can’t see the battery.
Saw your video and open it up. My issue is. It reads 13.50 and 0 at the post. I can’t get the the protection relay to reconnect. I try the ctek reset and it won’t work.
I saw somewhere that the relay switch says open if it’s over charge??
Any suggestions? At this moment I’m trying to use a source to bring the voltage down and see.
Thank you.
Hey bro, did you fix your battery in the end?
@@erez_bmwm7539 yes I did. Reset the battery by opening it up. But unfortunately I think when I jump the car in the beginning I burn out my rear control module. I was driving it around with no parking sensors and rear windows etc. I got a new module but a bmw specialist mechanic couldn’t get in to program it. So had no choice to take it the dealer. Of course told them what it was and all. Still wanted to charge me diagnostic fee and install the module fee and then programming charge. What can you do. All that and parts was same price for the battery.
Guess I’m lucky to be able to save the battery. If the dealer saw it first I know they would charge me for a new battery.
I charged the terminals voltage is almost 14 and this relay is still open and i dont get power on top what else it could be or how could i close the relay if anyone could help would be awesome.!
What is each cell supposed to be at ? My battery i at 12.97 volts and still not opening the switch to my terminal
The voltage is good, but that doesn't mean that your contact switch will need to be closed, it the battery have a lot's of opening because of low or over voltage, the contact won't open anymore, in that case you'll need a new battery
@@MOvidiu can’t I replace the two relays to fix the issue ? Where the switch is under the part is A0035421819
Hey! how did you solve the problem? I have no power at the terminals - the battery is charged
Hello , watch the video because I have shown everything that I have done . if yours don't work maybe you have a different problem
I can repair your battery, this is not only problem in cells.
@@ecudoctoreu what is the problem? and how to solve it?
@@aldislembergs422 Send me your battery to regeneration and reset
@@ecudoctoreuwhere you located I need my lithium battery checked out ?
Am un fault : Battery isolating switch, starter battery faulty ..
Mașina primește rău .. câteodată se oprește .. la a doua pornire merge .. mi se pare ciudat ca o baterie LI Ion sa tine doar 3 ani .. mă gândesc că nu sunt celulele ci probabil switchul sau BMS ? Nu se pot cumpăra de nicăieri ?
Salut , vei avea nevoie de o baterie noua , posibil ca bateria sa fi cedat din cauza exploatarii necoresunzatoare posibil sa fi avut multe descarcari ( masina stationata pe perioade lungi )
Hello. I have m4 f82. And my battery is completely dead. Do you som idea for it, please
Hey bro, did you fix your battery in the end?
@erez_bmwm7539 no actually not
relays inside the battery cut the current. How to fix it?
Need to charge the battery, like I'm explaining in the video
What did u up the voltage too to the each cells?
Please I need your help. I bought the battery last year . And I did not start the car for 1 year.
Now I charged the cells .(inside I have 13v) the terminal still 0v
Hey bro, did you fix your battery in the end?
@erez_bmwm7539 yes I did. And I also have a a 2 monthes old battery if you need one
Is very good vidéo extra explication my batterie m4 lithium new life
I'm glad that you enjoyed the video and also that it helped, thanks for the feedback
Traduction french please
Bună! îmi plac mult clipurile este de ajutor. imi puteti comunica unde este locatia dv si daca se pot face programari pentru o lucrare serioasa la un BMW. mulțumesc!
Salut ! ai detali sub clipul video sau in sectiunea About
I unplugged the white connectors for 20 mins and then when i plugged them back in i heard a loud click and have 13.2v on the terminals. Put the battery back in the car but now have a warning message straight up on the car saying “electrical power supply” risk to electrical power supply do not switch off engine. The windows wont work but the car starts and some of the dials have not come on? Anyone had these issues?
When you have a problem with your car, the first thing is to do a diagnosis !!! Not asking strangers what could be , because these cars are not like the ones built in the 80s, that had 3 wires and for every problem could have 1 or 3 defects .
@@MOvidiu I have run full diagnostics on the car and the battery itself produced codes 304 and 305 showing battery aged and faulty. The battery holds a steady 12.8v but I guess the control module is broken. This is why I asked as you seemed to be expert on these batteries and could have suggested a fix?
is it possible to remove the IBS Sensor?
Hello, why you want to remove the ibs
Like Bro ❤
Hello,
My battery has no power from the top switches but the cells have charge how do I fix this problem.
Thank you!!
Conect a 12v permanent supply to the terminals anl wait 15 -20 minutes
@@MOvidiu i left it to fully charge but still there is no power to the top terminal but on actual cell it has full charge
Remove and plug in the 2 connectors at the bms. In my case the relay closed again
@@IngoHerges I’m charged mine and it’s full. No power on the top. And I removed and plug in 2 connections. Still not helping
@@romanskapoushchenko8993 Hey! how did you solve the problem? I have no power at the terminals - the battery is charged
I did like on your video and lithium charger says battery is good and charged. But still not power on the top! I’m removed all plugs and still not help. I did buy pass,straight line and after isolating switch started clinking!!!! Taken off buy pass and still no power on the top
Hello Roman I'm sorry to hear that you failed to bring it back to life, it may be a defective internal module or it may be permanently blocked due to many disconnections
@@MOvidiu maybe blocked because we put too many times jump box and charger, before i knew it was a lithium battery
Ok I put battery back to the car and put jump box to start the car and car doesn’t start because other problem was. Then I take off jump box and battery awoke. Now everything perfect. Thank you man,!!