Thank you for getting these made for us. I'll come back in 20 years and let you know how this motor is doing. : )> Actually, I'll likely find a completely new way to blow up my motor. But I'll get to reuse the studs!
SixFiveTurboGarage.com have you watched AVEs RUclips channel. The guy is a riot. When he tightens anything he dose a long and anguished verbal click even with screw drivers lol
Oh yeah, love that guy. I have another web site where I review tools that I am hoping to one day do a collaboration on. I want to do very real reviews so I'm hoping that he will help out in torture testing some tools. I'm sure he can find the point of destruction. : )> www.quality-handtool-review.com/
Yes sir, and I wanted to use a torque plate when honing the cylinders but the machine shop didn't have one for a 6.5. Not really a big deal with the low RPM of our motors but if you can get it done that way, do it.
I'm thinking of building a 6.5 diesel if I did this kit plus liquid filled damper with ARP head stud's with every performance parts available from Health would a 6.5 hold together I was hoping to get as close too 400 HP as possible.
This kit is definitely what you want if you're going for 400 hp. 400 is possible (at the flywheel, but very difficult and $$$$ at the wheels) and has been done but you really need to throw everything at it. I would sign up on www.thetruckstop.us/forum/ and just start reading. There is a good guy named Nate that has a 350 hp Yukon and other high hp rigs there. Also, I would stay away from Heath. he is a good guy but the company has shown terrible practices for years now and was recently sold to some big conglomerate so will likely get worse. Besides, you can get everything you need from John at www.quadstartuning.com, Leroy at www.leroydiesel.com, and Chris at Twisted Steel (facebook.com/TwistedSteelPerformance/). These things are cheap and easy to work on so go for it!
Hey Ryan, good to hear from you again. I've had a wild year but am finally getting back to moving forward with things. I hope to have the next video up soon with the continued article as well. Thanks for hanging in there and don't give up on me yet!
SixFiveTurboGarage.com awesome bud glad to hear! Was just looking at some of leroys old P400 videos. And wanted to find a rebuild video of an optimizer or plain Jain 6.5.
@@ryanburbridge This next video will get into the tear down and some inspection. It starts to get real, real interesting. Keep in mind this is an Optimizer that we're tearing into, that's important. : )>
Hey Andrew, Sorry it took me so long to reply, I had to dig my torque wrench out to double check the brand, I haven't used it in a while. I use this KD tools wrench amzn.to/3rmaXjS. I think it's still considered a good brand but other than the really spendy brands like Snap-on, it looks like people like the CDI wrench amzn.to/3o5SeXz. If I were to get another one, I would probably go with the CDI since it's clearly made in the USA, I'm not sure about the KD Tools one. If it is made in the US, then either one would do. Whichever one you get, the important thing is to get it calibrated regularly (which I'm guilty of not doing myself) and spray some lube in the gears occasionally. I recently found out that my big wrench (250 ft/lb) bound up at some point and wore out the palls inside. Then you know you're good on accuracy.
I didn't for the studs in particular but it's a good idea to have an old block freshened up for the rebuild. A new block, not so much. A machine shop that you trust should be able to look at a block and tell you what you need.
Hey Mark I'm putting a 94 6.5 in a clean 2003 4.6 v8 Explorer what should I do thats not costly to make sure it doesnt take a crap a week after it's done?
Ha! Oh boy. Well, the easy answer is just take it easy on it, but the basics that you should always do is 1 - Leroy's oil cooler lines. The stockers are notorious for coming loose and dumping all your oil. leroydiesel.com/products/leroys-10an-oil-cooler-hose-kit-92-96/ These are $160 bucks but are waaaaay cheaper than a whole new motor. And they last forever so they're worth saving up for. 2 - Make certain that you use the back starter bracket. If this isn't installed, you may break the block off where the starter mounts and pretty much makes the block junk. amzn.to/2Mfforw 3 - Don't reuse the old harmonic balancer. If you are like me and like less maintenance, use the fluidampr, it's a lifetime part. amzn.to/32i2cYL Or the stock one is cheaper but will have to be checked for rubber separation after a bunch of miles. amzn.to/35to9WC 4 - With the DB4 IP, you'll want to relocate the PMD to get it out of the heat and let it live longer. Leroy has a great extension harness and heat sink to install in the front bumper and john has a lifetime warranty on his Flight Systems PMD if you need a new one. leroydiesel.com/products/leroys-heat-sink-and-6cable/ quadstartuning.com/collections/engine-internals 5 - Leroy also makes another part that will help a common problem with the lift pump quitting (If you use a similar system in the Explorer). The lift pump gets power from the oil pressure switch in the back drivers side of the block. The switches are crap and can't handle the load that the pump draws so they burn out a lot. This bypasses the switch with full power to the pump from the battery and still keeps the safety of the oil pressure switch to shut off the pump in an accident. leroydiesel.com/products/263/ Welp, that's all my brain will come up with right now and that'll really get you on the right path to lasting quite a while. There are other things that you can do to improve it like intake, exhaust, and cooling but these things will make your motor last a bunch longer. Good luck!
So I'm going to start looking for a 92-95 599 crack free block to build would I need to use that griddle kit with these studs? I'd also be studding the top end with liquid damper with that super 60 turbo 5" straight pipe and the hottest tune I can get I'd like to make 350 hp if possible would a fully studded top and bottom 6.5 599 block survive I wouldn't be doing any towing all for go show and daily drive. Are Scatt Cranks worth the money on built 6.5s?
If you're going for high horsepower, you should definitely use all the upgrades you can like these main and the ARP head studs. Will it survive? no way at all to know. It depends on the quality of the build, how it's driven, etc. As for Scat cranks, they are excellent and will likely take all the horsepower you can throw at them but it just depends on whether spending the money is worth it to you. I can say this; the stock crank is usually plenty strong enough to handle what you can throw at it as long as you have a good dampener, so you should be fine with your stock crank if you go with the Fluidampr.
Thanks, Mark!
Thank you for getting these made for us.
I'll come back in 20 years and let you know how this motor is doing. : )>
Actually, I'll likely find a completely new way to blow up my motor. But I'll get to reuse the studs!
Not sure if i was the only one repeating cllliiiick! Like AVE every time your put a wrench on those lol. Thanks for posting. Always enjoy
Ha!
While editing, I was thinking that there's something very satisfying about the sound of the socket on the nut and *click*.
SixFiveTurboGarage.com have you watched AVEs RUclips channel. The guy is a riot. When he tightens anything he dose a long and anguished verbal click even with screw drivers lol
Oh yeah, love that guy.
I have another web site where I review tools that I am hoping to one day do a collaboration on. I want to do very real reviews so I'm hoping that he will help out in torture testing some tools. I'm sure he can find the point of destruction. : )>
www.quality-handtool-review.com/
Whats the torque specs for main and rod bearings really need help on 1997 chevy 6.5 diesel
Apparently, ARP discontinued this kit. I called their special orders division and they have to make them.
Good to know. I suspected that something like this was going on but hadn't verified.
Thanks for the info!
Good info. Thx !
You bet, glad to help!
Did you get your block line-bored with studs and caps torqued to specs?
Yes sir, and I wanted to use a torque plate when honing the cylinders but the machine shop didn't have one for a 6.5. Not really a big deal with the low RPM of our motors but if you can get it done that way, do it.
I'm thinking of building a 6.5 diesel if I did this kit plus liquid filled damper with ARP head stud's with every performance parts available from Health would a 6.5 hold together I was hoping to get as close too 400 HP as possible.
This kit is definitely what you want if you're going for 400 hp. 400 is possible (at the flywheel, but very difficult and $$$$ at the wheels) and has been done but you really need to throw everything at it. I would sign up on www.thetruckstop.us/forum/ and just start reading. There is a good guy named Nate that has a 350 hp Yukon and other high hp rigs there.
Also, I would stay away from Heath. he is a good guy but the company has shown terrible practices for years now and was recently sold to some big conglomerate so will likely get worse. Besides, you can get everything you need from John at www.quadstartuning.com, Leroy at www.leroydiesel.com, and Chris at Twisted Steel (facebook.com/TwistedSteelPerformance/).
These things are cheap and easy to work on so go for it!
Any updates? Been checking back from time to time.
Hey Ryan, good to hear from you again.
I've had a wild year but am finally getting back to moving forward with things. I hope to have the next video up soon with the continued article as well.
Thanks for hanging in there and don't give up on me yet!
SixFiveTurboGarage.com awesome bud glad to hear! Was just looking at some of leroys old P400 videos. And wanted to find a rebuild video of an optimizer or plain Jain 6.5.
@@ryanburbridge This next video will get into the tear down and some inspection. It starts to get real, real interesting. Keep in mind this is an Optimizer that we're tearing into, that's important. : )>
What brand of torque wrench do you use... and what do you recommend
Hey Andrew,
Sorry it took me so long to reply, I had to dig my torque wrench out to double check the brand, I haven't used it in a while.
I use this KD tools wrench amzn.to/3rmaXjS. I think it's still considered a good brand but other than the really spendy brands like Snap-on, it looks like people like the CDI wrench amzn.to/3o5SeXz.
If I were to get another one, I would probably go with the CDI since it's clearly made in the USA, I'm not sure about the KD Tools one. If it is made in the US, then either one would do.
Whichever one you get, the important thing is to get it calibrated regularly (which I'm guilty of not doing myself) and spray some lube in the gears occasionally. I recently found out that my big wrench (250 ft/lb) bound up at some point and wore out the palls inside. Then you know you're good on accuracy.
Did you have to line bore the block before installing studs
I didn't for the studs in particular but it's a good idea to have an old block freshened up for the rebuild. A new block, not so much. A machine shop that you trust should be able to look at a block and tell you what you need.
Hey Mark I'm putting a 94 6.5 in a clean 2003 4.6 v8 Explorer what should I do thats not costly to make sure it doesnt take a crap a week after it's done?
Ha! Oh boy.
Well, the easy answer is just take it easy on it, but the basics that you should always do is
1 - Leroy's oil cooler lines. The stockers are notorious for coming loose and dumping all your oil.
leroydiesel.com/products/leroys-10an-oil-cooler-hose-kit-92-96/
These are $160 bucks but are waaaaay cheaper than a whole new motor. And they last forever so they're worth saving up for.
2 - Make certain that you use the back starter bracket. If this isn't installed, you may break the block off where the starter mounts and pretty much makes the block junk.
amzn.to/2Mfforw
3 - Don't reuse the old harmonic balancer. If you are like me and like less maintenance, use the fluidampr, it's a lifetime part.
amzn.to/32i2cYL
Or the stock one is cheaper but will have to be checked for rubber separation after a bunch of miles.
amzn.to/35to9WC
4 - With the DB4 IP, you'll want to relocate the PMD to get it out of the heat and let it live longer. Leroy has a great extension harness and heat sink to install in the front bumper and john has a lifetime warranty on his Flight Systems PMD if you need a new one.
leroydiesel.com/products/leroys-heat-sink-and-6cable/
quadstartuning.com/collections/engine-internals
5 - Leroy also makes another part that will help a common problem with the lift pump quitting (If you use a similar system in the Explorer). The lift pump gets power from the oil pressure switch in the back drivers side of the block. The switches are crap and can't handle the load that the pump draws so they burn out a lot. This bypasses the switch with full power to the pump from the battery and still keeps the safety of the oil pressure switch to shut off the pump in an accident.
leroydiesel.com/products/263/
Welp, that's all my brain will come up with right now and that'll really get you on the right path to lasting quite a while.
There are other things that you can do to improve it like intake, exhaust, and cooling but these things will make your motor last a bunch longer.
Good luck!
I have been curious how much hp and torque does quadstar add.before and after?
Quadstar is a business, not a product. They don't add any torque or horsepower.
So I'm going to start looking for a 92-95 599 crack free block to build would I need to use that griddle kit with these studs? I'd also be studding the top end with liquid damper with that super 60 turbo 5" straight pipe and the hottest tune I can get I'd like to make 350 hp if possible would a fully studded top and bottom 6.5 599 block survive I wouldn't be doing any towing all for go show and daily drive. Are Scatt Cranks worth the money on built 6.5s?
If you're going for high horsepower, you should definitely use all the upgrades you can like these main and the ARP head studs. Will it survive? no way at all to know. It depends on the quality of the build, how it's driven, etc. As for Scat cranks, they are excellent and will likely take all the horsepower you can throw at them but it just depends on whether spending the money is worth it to you. I can say this; the stock crank is usually plenty strong enough to handle what you can throw at it as long as you have a good dampener, so you should be fine with your stock crank if you go with the Fluidampr.