JBL EON315 Power Board Detailed Diagnosis and Electronic Repair
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- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2024
- I cant service everyone's amplifier so I have put this out there to help engineers and experienced amateurs get their speakers working. If you have any questions then let me know. Good luck with the JBL
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You're the Bob Ross of electronics repair.
Thanks.
Where can I send my jbl 515 eon speaker amplifier power board for repairs
Thanks for the video. I have a pair of JBL EON 315 both with exact same thing happened. I followed your tutorial and changed all mentioned component but still it won't turn on.
When I plug it in and turn on the power switch, the main relay won't activate.
VBSense to SMPSREF return about 7.6Volt
VBULK to SMPSREF return around 300Volt
Q606 pin E to Q605 pin C around 300Volt
1/2VBULK to SMPSREF around 150Volt
D604 and D606 has no voltage
Main Relay pin 1 and 2 no 5Volt voltage
Also checked the relay with 5volt on pin 1 and 2, and the relay still works. Hoping you could give some thoughts on what should be checked or which component is responsible for the 15V part.
Oh, and I used dummy load with the same ohm with the speakers, and the input voltage is 230V. Thanks a lot.
Are you sure that there is no short on the low voltage DC side of the amp? Can you hear a rhythmic click, click ,click? You need pretty good hearing to hear it.
@@razenby I will recheck to be sure.
Opto coupler. Is there one in this circuit? I can't see it. Thanks for the video
Coupling transformer I think...
Hello Mr. Smoke are you able to repair these? EON 315
Yes they are pretty straight forward. Where are you based?
Hello, thank you so much for your video and help. so i am very entrusted your videos I tried to find "Part 2" of this repair but couldn't find it. Will you release part 2? thank you so much
I'll take a look. definitely filmed it,
I think this part 1 and part 2. What fault do you have that isnt covered by this video?
Thanks for the informative video. Was hoping to get your opinion/advice on something.
1. What's the temperature you normally set your hot air station at? I have seen people set them over 400 deg celcius when working on similar parts you showed in this video. What are your thoughts?
2.Would it be ok to power up a class D amplifier without a load attached? no input signal applied. Just to check if it powers up after working on the power supply section.
Thanks so much
I run around 340 C which is effective to warm thing up quickly but also hot enough to do damage if not wielded correctly. It is important to use a larger diameter nozzle with a wafting airflow. If the air is coming out too fast (small nozzle) then a lot of ambient air will be drawn in to the airflow. Have a really good look at the board too. Copper areas or thicker copper tracks will take a lot of the heat away from the target components so you have to heat for much longer with a higher temperature which is not good. I usually have a soldering iron handy to grab with the other hand to put some heat into connections with a lot of copper (as well as the hot air). Keep an eye on the joints. If you use flux then you can see the change in the surface as it melts. After the first joint on say and IC has melted then back off with the blower to maintain the temperature. I can change almost everything except BGA chips with just a soldering iron. Practice so you can too. Don't forget that a really good soldering iron really sets your free. It may be you are resorting to a blower because you have a sub standard iron. With regard to Class D amps and is a load required? I always use one. If you don't connect a load than a couple of things can happen. 1. The filter components in the output network can be subject to over voltage by ringing. 2. Powerful class D amps have closed loop feedback to the servo drive from the output network or somewhere near the load itself. No load will affect feedback signal and in turn the drive. 3. If your power transistors in the output blow you will be wondering if it was because there was no load connected.......4. You can't test an amp without connecting a load.
@@razenby Thanks so much for the clarification. A follow up:
1.What values of dummy load resistors do you recommend having? as sometimes I get only the amplifier section without the speaker in for repair (mainly not powering up). So without the speakers I do not know what the impedance value of the speaker is.
2.Do I need to attach dummy loads for the LF and HF output as well, or only the LF output?
Thanks so much again. Really do appreciate it.
@@yaminhameed1524 4 Ohm wire wound is about right to test most amps. Connect both channels.
Hi @magicsmoke when my eon 315 actually turns on it works great however I have issues with the power-plug connector in the back. I have to wiggle it quite a bit for t to turn on. Sometimes it works. Sometimes it does not. I opened my speaker up and came across your videos but am reluctant to fix without proper input. Perhaps you could help me on the way? Thanks for your all your amazing videos!
Check the fuse in the socket and check that the spade connectors on the rear of the socket that carry the power to the electronics is good. Otherwise it is possible the main power switch. I believe it is a standard switch that can be bought.
Hi I followed step by step after the video EON315 140435-3 VER 1. I actually have a 140435-5 without The - K600 relay
The MOSFET 606-605 are shorted in the GEN. I replaced 606-605 and the whole set of components Transistor 601-604 all CHIP, U-603-608-602-601 and yet there is no 15V and 5V
The volt that comes in the transformer and U-608 = (1/2 vbulk) 168V DC
1. If I connect the RELAY leg 3 to 4 will it solve my problem?
2. What voltage does the transformer emit on foot 12 & 7?
3. What is the trigger voltage for this circuit.
I'd be happy For a quick response if possible thank you very very much
Are you running on 230V or 110V supply?
@@razenby 230V AC
@@razenby 230-220V
@@ofer213 So you have no comparator or relay. With AC power off. Connect a 15Vdc supply to the LNK302 buck CCT DC output and see if you have a short. Should be about 80mA give or take. If there is a short then turn up the current until something gets hot. Nothing will work till you get the 12 odd volts to power the PWM drive electronics. Did you have any drama taking the chips off? Bythe way when I reply and help you could at least leave a like.
@@razenbydo you mean to u608
in the out
Hello, thank you so much for your video and help. I tried to find "Part 2" of this repair but couldn't find it. Will you release part 2? thank you so much
Did you find it?
@@razenby Not really, can´t find Part2 with youtube saerch or a search in the video section of your channel. Did you release Part 2? thank you so much, best regards
@@MrCacciLLo I think this is part 1 and 2. What m,ore info do you need?
@@razenby Thank you so much for your reply, I dont remember at the moment since I posted the initial message 11 months ago. But I have 2 of these units with non-working Amps that I will need to fix in the near future. I will use your video as reference for the repair, thank you so much. If I have any doubts or dificulties then I will let you know, thank you so much for offering to help. My best regards
@@MrCacciLLo Ok Standing by
hello, very helpful video, i have eon315 power on, power led on, mic led on, signal led flashing, limit led is off, but no output, there is just a little hiss on the speaker, checked the voltage -40 and +40 good and stable, -5v and +5v is good, and i got 12v on output of L603 (schematic shows 15v) not sure must be 12 or 15v?
i tested and i changed all the capacitors in the amplifier board, still no sound, any idea? thank you
-
Sounds very much like a chip on the input board has failed. See the video on how to check it.
@razenby Hi i have 315 after the gig it just atopped working black board still receives the signal but theres no sound, is there any chance i could post it to you for the inspection?? Thanks Ben
Thanks for that Ill check it out out. Pinnacle does this from time to time,. Blinking Pinnacle these days I watch all videos before posting ..... Give me a few days.
Hola compañero, hace años reparo estos equipos jbl pero ahora me llegaron dos eon 315 q suena despues de 20 minutos y durante estos 20 minutos hace un ruido leve como un chick chick chick.... El problema esta en el circuito amplificador xq lo pude aislar, en la salida da voltaje dc oscilante de 2 voltios, sube y baja. Cerca de momlos 20 minutos de estar asi comienza a sonar. Le revise los capacitores panasonic cerca del ir20957 y uno estaba desvalorizado pero aun asi no mejoró. El problema lo da en los dos canales de amplificacion
Cambiar C113 y C213. este es tu problema. Recuerda darle me gusta y suscribirte. Gracias
@@razenby excelente muchas gracias
I have three of these and they are all broken. Never had so much trouble with a powered speaker. The final one died yesterday, now just making that infamous click click click from the woofer. Unfortunately I need at least one working for the people who rent time in my room, and due to the pandemic all my finances are down to the wire. Is this clicking an issue I could fix myself as someone with next to no experience working with a circuit board? If so, any resources you could direct me to--for what tools I need, what parts I should replace and where to buy them--would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Jacob. They do have issues. Is it a loud thump thump or a click click? I have repaired a lot of them and once fixed and modified they run OK. The assembly atthe factory is crap as they over tighten the board onto the heatsink and cause issues with the clamped devices. The 315s are very sensitive to the mains supply glitches and bad connections on the mains (especially if you are on UK 240V). Unfortunately I can't be sure as there are two mains causes of clicking and about a dozen not so frequent ones. Not really practical to advise without diagnostics. I know what I would check but you need a good multi-meter (DM-110C?) a good soldering iron, solder and some soldering skills.
@@razenby Thanks for your reply. The clicking was very subtle and had no high frequency content, sounding like a finger tapping on a pillow. I left it on and making this sound all night since this had worked temporarily on one of the other speakers. Today the clicking has stopped and no sound comes through except for occasion distorted bursts when I feed it a signal. Perhaps this narrows down the problem. I am in Canada where we are on 120V mains, and this speaker has always been plugged into a Furman power conditioner for what that's worth. I have basic soldering skills and have repaired some broken connections in microphones and cables, but never upon a circuit board. If each possible cause can be resolved by changing single components, I suppose I could change all the possible offenders.
@@jacobsaintjames The faint clicking is most likely caused as explained at 53 minutes into the video C113, C213. change them anyway.
@@razenby I will give this a try. Thank you so much for your time.
@@jacobsaintjames Good luck.
Hello my freind, soy de Perú tengo un equipo igual funcionaba perfectamente pero derrepente ya no prende que será, para comenzar a revisarlo, gracias saludos, best regards.
Hola, hay tres modos principales de fallas.
1. Los transistores de potencia Trenchstop de la fuente de alimentación de modo conmutado principal están en cortocircuito. Necesita cambiar todos los circuitos integrados, los Power FET y algunos pasivos.
2. El inductor del chip LNK302 o del chip LNK302 ha fallado.
3. El controlador de salida LF FETS y algunos componentes de la unidad asociados fallan.
Estos son bastante fáciles de arreglar, solo necesita ser muy cuidadoso y cambiar todos los componentes del chip, ya que una vez que B + ha entrado en la puerta FET, fríe muchos de los dispositivos conectados al riel de alimentación de CC de bajo voltaje.
@@razenby Gracias
Teacher, good afternoon and thank you for your video tutorial! I have a problem with a jbl eon 315, my client says that he turned it on with the volume up, and it burned a couple of resistors, I already changed them, but the detail is that it turns on normally, it gives normal sound, but after 2 to 3 minutes power off, and it takes about 5 minutes to power up again. I already checked the output mosfets and none of them shows a short circuit. What could be the fault, could you help me guide me to find the fault, please Master? Thank you very much, Blessings!!
Check the induct or next to the LNK chip. they fail have a habit of causing exactly this problem.
Hi, I watched your very informative video and took out both amps from a pair of eon 315's both of these speakers just have a steady clicking sound when powered on with nothing but the power cord hooked up I looked at all the caps and board and see no swelled caps or hot spots, looked at the solder joints and nothing obvious, I am very new at electronic repair but also interested in it. Do you have any advice as to the next step or have you seen this problem? Thank You
Clicking usually usually caused by C113 and/OR C213. Very problematic. 10uf 16V. I fit Panasonic EEEHD1C100AR in these locations on all units as part of the service.
@@razenby would that cause only the high range to click when speaker is turned on with nothing else hooked up? The woofer is quiet no clicking. Thanks for the help and advice, really appreciate it.
Yes
Hi, thanks. It looks as though I decided to upload - i.e. there is no part 2 What info do you need?!
@Get Skilled Or Die Trying probably about £90
Great tutorial. One of mine keeps blowing fuses but it turns on after a few oscilation when connected to my series lamp. The obvious suspects (transistors) appear to be good, not shorted... i dont know what else to do.
and i also get a "tec tec tec tec tec" constant click sound when connected to the series lamp, not too loud (like a relay sound but it appears to come from the speaker)
Change the capacitor in the output drive. C118. C218? There is one on each channel. 10uF 25V. It is mentioned in the video. I dont have the schematic here so these device references are from memory - check the video. If these caps are low then the half bridge drive voltage on the High FET will sink on the output stage and turn on both FETS simultaneously over powering the power supply. By the way, the cycling will happen if you have small light bulb in Circuit. Don't sit there running on the bulb. The light bulb is intended to allow you to check that you have no faults not to run the amp as it draws about 25 Watts when idling.
I saw it and it was changed a few months ago. Forgot to mention. I will change again and see if it gets better. I do not use it with the series bulb. Just check if there is shorts and so. Thanks a lot for your patience with noobs like me.
@@razenby I've changed them but i think i put some bad quality ones, because it still keeps blowing fuses with the same diagnostics. Other key components seem fine (on measurement). But well, i will change them again and see what i can get.
Even with better quality siemens caps it keeps blowing fuses. It blows the fuse not imediately as powers but just after the relay acts.
hey, please tell me where you got those parts you needed, I have the same problem
Any decent electronic parts distributor. Farnell.com, RSwww.com, CPC.com, Digikey.com,
can please send me a component part info on amplifier side all the possible parts I need to replace or where I can order iim online here in USA. Big thanks!...
I have a JBL eon and a recent problem is, when I first plug it into a sound source and raise the volume slowly, it feels like at its highest it’s still low in volume. Then suddenly it barks hard and gets super loud. Heard of this before?
Yes, sounds like a bad volume control but could be something more sinister. first step would be to open it up and inspect both sides for the input mixer board particularly the solder joints around the controls and sockets. Make sure that umbilical signal cable is properly plugged in. Unplug it and re-plug a few times to clear the oxide of the pins. (Some have gold flash - others don't. Unbalnced plus and - 15V rails to the mixer can also cause this so check the Supply rails are the correct voltage and are balanced.
Dear Magic Smoke I have JBL PRX525 its two transistors are burned and I cant find the part numbers of that transistors ,If you can please share that model power section transistor numbers.Thank you
Did you find them?
Gracias estoy reparando una bocina igual, solo traía dañado el IC LNK302 estaba quemado y no le veía el número Dios te bendiga saludos
Asegúrese también de que el inductor buck esté bien. Encienden los contactos y destruyen el LNK302
@@razenby estaba en corto el fan 7380 por eso daño el LNK302 gracias por compartir , los transistores resistencias todo esta bien, también reparo las bocinas HK,
I'm missing the fet's transistors behind line 605 606, can you help me identify them!
Transistors 605,606 are specified as IKP20N60T I usually use GB20B60PD1 as they run cooler. Only buy them from a known trusted source as they are likely to be fakes that go phut after a few uses!!! .
where can I get those parts you are referring to used?
I can supply a set for £30
Hi, I have a Eon510 not powering on at all PCB board looks identical to this one, would it be a similar fix?
The power supply section is very similar across all of the 200 300 500 series. The power amp stages differ. There is a detailed EON 500 repair on this channel.
What is the value of transistor
Which one??
That one crack transistor what value
cuanto de carlo soportan eso integrado que estas montando ??
Lo siento, estoy seguro de que no he traducido muy bien tu comentario, no tiene sentido para mí. ¿Puedes explicar un poco más? Gracias.
I have a problem with 510 Eon JBL, no lights but I do hear relay after power on and when I power off. Can I get schematic for USA power.
The universal version that works on 110 or 230V mains on 110V it should give 2 clicks - one for the doubler relay and then a second when the secondary 5V rail comes up. I have never seen a 510 schematic. Electronically, all the 500 series are very similar. Check you have the offline power supply from the LNK302 / LNK304 (7 pins by an induct or) this chip for the inductor fatigue and cause no life. If you get 2 clicks then check the ribbon cable hasn't fallen out as
broadly speaking the same supply that drives the relay also lights the power LED.....
@@razenby on the eon 510, I think my problem lies in the input/mixer board. Can you tell me what the surface mount part is that is labeled FB20? When I apply pressure to it my power on led lights. I may also have a problem with the flat cable it connects to. Many thanks, John
D600 Diode. Is this meant to be shorted? According to the schematic it looks to be linked across this diode.
This is across the +5v rail. Doesn't make sense to me to be shorted.
I've probed this diode in circuit and it is indeed shorted.
Can you please confirm if this is normal?
Thanks
D600 is a slugging diode across the relay coil to conduct the back-EMF when the relay coil is de-energised. . You are seeing the relay coil resistance. If you are in the UK and dont need 110V mains operation then remove the relay K601. It is a liability of you only want to work on 220-240VAC mains.
@@razenby D600 appeared shorted Bcs rookie me was holding the probe against another contact on the board.
I found the 63ohm partial short. The partial short was in the 5v relay. Just ordered the part and looking forward to trying again for success.
@@razenby are you sure you don't mean remove k600? You mentioned k601. I thought k601 was necessary. Yes I'm on 240v in australia
@@ElectronicCity715 Yes sorry, Brain Fart I should have checked the schematic. K600 is the one you definitely don't want. Probably easier to remove the drive transistor or R612. The schoolboy design and locks the relay into doubling mode when there is a glitch in the power at startup.
@@razenby D600 is across the whole +5 volt rail. I have since probed it and it reads ok in circuit. I will double check this to confirm thanks
I have bought a couple of broken 315. On One the tweeter is dead and on the other a poping sound and intermittent tweeter. Could it be c113 or c106?
Hi Fredrik. the tweeter blow all the time. I did a dynamic range test and adjusted the HF with a reference mic and adjusted the sweep level to just below clipping and on the second run the tweeter blew. i.e The amplifier is set or driven too hard will destroy the tweeter every time. Don't use treble boost control on the back. Set an leave at flat and run them flat. The treble dive circuity is very reliable on the 315s. I would check the speaker internal wiring and crimps first and look deeper if they aren't the problem.
Magic Smoke i changed the capacitors and both are now fixed. Thank you!
Hello friend, I would like to know what voltage the yellow transformer has at its output? '
24V Approx
@@razenby a ok es donde esta RT1
Hi, is it possible for you to repair an eon 315 who makes an noise abnormal?
Thanks
yes no problem
Where can I send the electronic module?
Hi
How do I get all the part that you just replace?
I think my Jbl having the same problem. Do you have email or anything that I can contact you for the detail?
Rswww.com or www.farnell.com or www.lcsc.com
Why did you remove the Relay K600, and jump the Capacitor C630 at min 56:01 ?
Thank you.
removing the relay disables the voltage doubling circuit which is only needed on 110V operation. It is a liability for us 230V customers. If you run only on 220-240V then take it out!
Hi. Have you ever worked on jbl vrx 918sp? Got 1 here with no sound, when you turn it off, the sound comes on for a brief moment before the caps loose there power.
Yes. The power supply side is a higher power but the schematic is virtually identical to the 315xt with but the audio output is three channel discrete design instead of 2 discrete (LF & HF) Let me know if you want me to fix it.
@@razenby oh. i actually leave all the way in Fiji. really, i was looking at the 515xt, but one of the differences is the amplifier for the tweeter. but, the problem im having is no sound, theres nothing in there about that. theres no shorted parts on the ouput and the voltage regulators are all good. I measured the voltages at the three test points near the voltage regulators, i got about 36vdc, i should be getting 24vdc. thanks for your'e help.
Do you hear a relay click after power up before the music cuts out? You should rig up and run from a dual rail DC power supply. You have to enable the amplifiers if the SMPS is not running. Then you can see if you have an over-current condition or if the SMPS is at fault. i.e SMPS or Amplifier fault. Checking for shorted devices in the output stage with a continuity meter is not the end of the story as bad drive or leaky component can cause over current.
@@razenby Yea, relay kicks in. im getting plus and minus 38v dc after its been rectified by the fast switching diodes. the regulators are putting out there plus and minus 5v and 15v. you think 38v dc is too much and the amp is just protecting itself, cause i have a prx 625, i checked, there's plus and minus 24v. the funny thing is, when the vrx is switched off, as soon as the voltage drops below 25v, theres sound until the caps loose there charge. i'l power it up with 24v, see what happens. Thanks for your help.
Could be a problem with the start timer - amp inhibit line. This enables the amp a set time after detecting a power up. Have look at the 515 schematic... the circuit s probably same/similar.
Hi good day I have two jbl 515 speaker with a problem and I want to get them fix how can you help me
Where are you based?
whats a suitable replace for the fan 7380mx ?
I have never looked for one. You will have to change the whole lot and check the signal diodes and resistors in the FET gate drive circuit and the LM5021 and the LNK302 / 304. If you run on only 230V then remove the double relay and the comparator and the Flip flop chip. Else it will go bang when you turn it on.
whats your take on this gate driver 2ED2304S06FXLSA1
and this mosfet IKP40N65H5XKSA1 can they be used as replacement in the circuit ?
Hi,,i have JBL EON 510 problem is,,when I star power led limet clip clip lip but sound out nose,,you can for me the schematics? thank !
Sorry are you saying the signal light is permanently on when there is no signal input or a repetitive click- click noise from the speaker with no input? If so what is the number of clicks per second that you hear?
@@razenby The red signal light shows the mute mode is on, there is progress Nose emits the speaker even though it is not connected to the input signal, but when I connect to the input signal, the device still works.
I have a pair of these the right one doesnt seem to sound as full i replaced the driver but it doesnt sound the same evethough i used the exact jbl driver im thinking the amp ?
It could be the drivers or the main power board or the mixer/input board. Take them to bits and a bit of module swapping to isolate the cause of the fault. The first thing to check: Check the large 10 ohm ceramic 10W resistor standing by the LV smoothing capacitor. Vibration causes stress fracture on the iron legs. This can make it sound really off.
Hi, Do you have details of C639 C637 ?
Do you still need it - I will look it up.
Hello, i have a ploblem in this amplifier, a noise in the transformer and the sound stop after a few minutes. but the led power and signal are liting. Can you halp me please?
Check the bobbin inductor. ruclips.net/video/El27EVgTGSM/видео.html&lc=UgxXfh3EdQu2pGyPSr14AaABAg
My eon315 power board seems to have a problem. Power on does not work. Can you fix it if I send it to you?
Where in the world are you?
@@razenby i m korean
do you KakaoTalk?
Hello i have a 515 no poweron but i get 15v at the fuse could you point me in the right direction
See the playlist "JBL 515 Electronic Repair" on the channel everything is covered there. Check you have 300V DC+ on the High side FET Source. The change the TL and the 7380MX chip and try it. You may need to change both Power supply Trenchstop Transistors too. If you don't want it to go bang when you put the power on then change everything as detailed in the videos. Let me know if you need a kit of parts.
i have a pair ..but one of them does not power on ..what should i do first..i was told it was the power module....
Yes, likely to be the power module. No leds no life. Either the inductor, the power supply of the LF output Fets and sometimes all three. See the video.
Best tutorial ever! Thanks a lot! Is it possible to completely remove LM393, that D-flipflop U609 and relay for voltage doubling since in Europe there is no need for that, but there is a risk of sticking contact and serious failure because of that? Looking at the diagram elektrotanya.com/jbl_eon_315_sch.rar/download.html , it seems that these parts have absolutely no other function, so why not?
I check with the customer top make sure they don't need 110V operation and if the confirm 230V operarton is all they need then I then remove the doubling relay then I just remove the doubling relay for 230V customers. Don't remove the ICs as they have a role in trying to do a soft start for the power supply by arbitrating Vbulk, VCC 5V from the LM5021 and the +15V from the offline supply (LNK chip). If you have had a blow up then you need to change these chips too. Good luck. Remember to power via light bulb (100 W filament not LED!!) . It will save you fireworks if you have got anything wrong. As soon as you hear a click and the blue light comes on then remove the bulb.
@@razenby Thank you so much!
@@loganovac No problem
@@razenby Thanks for information !
Did you fix it?
Hola saludos desde Venezuela tengo uno de este modelo se apaga a los 10 minutos en este momento la tengo destapada y soñando más de una hora no le e echo nada solo quite la tapa
Replace inductor L603 ans check Relay K601. L603 is the most common cause of intermittent cut-out. Reemplace el inductor L603 y verifique el relé K601. L603 es la causa más común de corte intermitente.
el sonido es especie de un tic tac tic tac luego volvia a sonar creo que era cuando se calentaba pero desde alli dejo de sonar solo suena la cornta oca el bajo
Condensador probable C113 o 213. ¡Cámbialos y disfruta! Like and subscribe too please!!
@@razenby hello olle dañe los mosfet probandolos
@@darwinsorjairodriguezmoril5860 Which MOSFET?
@@razenby dañe los IRF6644 EXPLOTARON ¿ QUE REEMPLAZÓ LE PUEDO COLOCAR ¿¿ POR QUE NO SE CONSIGUEN LOS ORIGINALES AQUI EN VENEZUELA
@@darwinsorjairodriguezmoril5860 These FETs never blow on these 315 amplifier. I have repaired hundreds and never seen one. If you have over-current on the audio output stage then follow my advice Condensador probable C113 o 213. Failure of these caps is common and causes overcurrent and clicking.
EN EL MINUTO 32.16 HAY UNA MAGIA
Indeed!
vivo en Cuba tengo una bocinas JBL de no usarlas ahora no funcionan que puedo hacer para repararlas
¿Qué culpa tienes? ¿Qué ves y qué oyes?)
REVISALA SON REPARABLES
Dime en que te puedo ayudar, estoy reparando la mia. Pero lo mas importante es que debes de tener el esquema electrico. Lo puedes descargar de aqui.... Solo quitale los asteriscos * a la direccion que voy a poner abajo:
h*tt*ps*:/*/m*us*ic*-e*le*ct*ro*ni*cs*-f*or*um*.c*om*/s*ho*wt*hr*ea*d.*ph*p?*t=*39*39*6
Hi, you can send me the JBL 315 scheamatic. Thanks
Need your email address!
@@razenby Thanks .. I already solved the JBL problem
@@razenby lexan13@hotmail.com, please send me the jbl 315 schematic thanls.
It's the same old story lol
"It was reliable, until it wasn't anymore, and went out with a bit of a bang."
Electronics... go figure! 🤷🏻
That is a good one.. more of a fizzle these days - the big bangs were the old caps.. shrinking TV picture and then a whopping explosion as the wax/paper cap went off. If you have never witnessed then you are lucky..
Subtitulos en español
Complete Spanish Titles added.
Tengo una idéntica prende y se apaga a los 10 minutos más o menos
Esto se explica en el otro video, generalmente se debe a una bobina defectuosa al lado del chip de alimentación fuera de línea LNK
Gracias por responder con la falla presente hay 165vol dc en el puente rectificador y funcionando hay 310vol de en el puente rectificador
@@alfonsobastardo4437 ¿Cuál es su voltaje de suministro de red?
110vol
@@alfonsobastardo4437 asegúrese de que el relé de duplicación esté conmutando correctamente. Si es intermitente, causará esto. El relé azul.
Serie 300
??
@@razenby hola
No pude conseguir la falla en caso de que decidiera modificar y agregar un transformador toroidal como lo haría que pistas debería cortar
IC MH6 sulit di dapat ..
Eh??