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Equipment Review: Honing Rods
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- Does a honing rod really sharpen a knife? To find out, Lisa bought nine honing rods and put them to the test.
Buy our winning honing rod: cooks.io/2kjYfSt
Buy our best buy honing rod: cooks.io/2kDTd3B
Read the full review: cooks.io/2lRBeXw
Watch more equipment reviews: www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDfNw...
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I prefer this format and her as the host
Bacall m, omg yes. No look at me fake, ego cutesy crap. ( CAN'T stand the blonde arrogant cow ). Lisa always has real information for decision making . Thank you for another great video , ATK and Lisa .
granny sweet woah woah woah! it’s cruel to call the other lady those names! You can dislike her without being insulting 😨
"Never meet your idols" - I learned that lesson a long time ago, when I met Steve Jobs.
Still... Lisa is THE BOMB! THE FREAKING BOMB!
Lisa's an excellent host. Direct, accurate, informative, limited hyperbole.
Same. I just want info and I like her
Very glad to see a return to the no nonsense testing oriented format of equipment reviews.
airencracken I only watch her reviews now
AGREED!
This is the straightforward format I enjoy best from ATK: educational, fair, and thorough. Seven minutes well spent. I've learned a lot, thank you.
My mother was a butcher for 13 years and taught me to use a steel. I love mine and it is always by my side when I am cutting lots of vegetables or meats. Tonight, I used it on my cleaver and it cut through ribs like soft butter.
Lisa, thank you for going over the honing rods. I have had one for years, it is 14 inches (professional butcher size). My Dad could put a razor sharp edge on a knife with a whet stone and hone...I had forgotten I had it and really, how to do it (using an electric sharpener)...BUT, after watching your reviews, I got out the hone (no whet stone!) and brought my 4 favorite kitchen knives back to razor edges...
Dad's test was not the paper, it was to allow the weight of the knife to cut through the tomato while pulling it (no pressing) then it was 'sharp'....I did it...! Thank you.
Everything she reviews I buy and incorporate into regular use in my kitchen.
Br. Josh1198 your review on the items please!
Me too
Good to know that all of them at least did something. Gives people a reason to finally play with the one that came in their block sets.
I am a chef with 18 years kitchen experience. I watch this channel because I can always learn something new, and I’m not too stubborn or pompous to believe I know best like some of these other people in the comments. The fact that they test many things at MIT, a highly prestigious school, under powerful microscopes and 🧪 science 🧬, whatever, they use controlled methods of testing and are very thorough! That’s enough for me to know I can learn many new things from them. You’d be ignorant and stubborn to believe otherwise. Let’s all keep learning! That’s why this show Used to air on PBS. It’s an educational tool. Some might forget that there are different methods of doing things! America’s Test Kitchen is a national treasure, been watching since I was 14, I’m 33.
Very impressed by the testing explanation, depth of or degree of testing various aspects. No consumer reports nonsense here where you have no idea what the test parameters or conditions are. The mechanism by which you test is crucial. I like this from America's Test Kitchen.
God, the glass cutting board hurt to watch.
LoL, right?!
I've never used one, but just watching them being used over the years was painful to my senses.
And I was moderately concerned for the knives on a common sense basis, but because I know nothing about knife blades, I reserved harsh judgment.
But even if they didn't harm the blade, the SOUND!
OMG, the SOUND!!!😱😱😱
Why people, WHY???🤯🤯
@@pedroarellano4266 I just couldn't bear it. Lol
@@jaytee2642 it's science,,,, painful stuff. Lol
Love these equipment test videos, Thanks
The format of the videos are so damn good. Lisa is clear and concise without any filler bs. Quite refreshing for a RUclips video. PS I now know what that long stick in my knife set is for. Thanks!
God, I love vids that get straight to the point and are packed with useful info. I already knew most of this, and I was still enthralled. Well done!
Well said, well said...
@Tony Samson at once! Yes, pls! 😁
@Tony Samson Bountiful years to us all sire 👏
Many thanks to you, from all of us peasants to the lords you've dained worthy!
Learning the difference between honing and sharpening is mind-blowing 🤯 Thank you!
All these comments about "A professional chef should know this..." seem to forget that this channel is geared toward home cooks, not professionals. If you're a classically-trained chef, why are you watching this channel?
Andrew Byers I am a chef and I watch this channel because I can always learn something new, and I’m not too stubborn or pompous to believe I know best like some of these other people in the comments. The fact that they test many things at MIT under powerful microscopes and use controlled methods of testing is enough for me to believe I can learn many new things from them. You’d be ignorant and stubborn to believe otherwise. Let’s all keep learning! That’s why this show Used to air on PBS. It’s an educational tool. Some might forget that there are different methods of doing things!
@@brightstarlit Yep. I've done feature stories on people who excel in all sorts of fields and they're _always_ learning, they don't care where from, they don't think they know it all and the best of them do it the most. People who think they know it all are almost never the top in their fields. The ones who are tend to be avid, non-judgmental learners.
this honing you talk about is the exact same process as sharpening. steels and hones remove metal the same as stones.
@@chrisolenick953 If you generically call them rods, the ceramic ones do remove steel. The steel ones do not and only straighten the edge of the blade.
Something about Lisa makes her really fun to watch, I like the way she speaks/enunciates its almost soothing lol
Finally! The mystery is solved and the secrets are revealed from the not-knife thing from my block of knives. Tyty
No. This has been known for 100s of years.
Wow! U r old! I'm only 68, but you - 100's! Lol! Jk 😉
LOL I love that - “the not-knife thing”.
Picked up the zwilling one a few years ago. It's really good, and the magnetism catches the tiny filings for easy cleanup. Really happy to see it's the best one in the test kitchen :)
I have a Zwilling, regular Henckels, and a Shun honing rod. All of them work virtually the same, with the same profiles for the most part. I would recommend any of them for regular use.
Yes! Lisa's back with some legit equipment reviews. It's always a treat to see the research and analysis that goes into these videos.
RUclips sub box engaged with this timely video. I am currently looking for a honing rod since I recently bought a sharpening stone. Thanks to this video, I have found my new honing rod. Thanks America's Test Kitchen!
Keep these reviews coming!! I love them and they're so helpful!!
One of your better, most informative videos. Thank you, and thank you for your honesty.
These equipment reviews are great. Love your objective take on things and real experience in the kitchen. Keep it up! ✨
Wanna know something interesting? My grandfather's bestfriend, an inventor from San Antonio, Texas, patented hundreds of things in his lifetime. The two that made him a millionaire are corrugated fiberglass and diamond-powder-coated steel. These honing rods and Emery boards built his legacy.
What's his name? I'm always looking for ppl from my hometown in the hopes I knew them or of them. I grew up in San Antone but have moved to the Midwest.
My OPINION is based on working for almost 16 years in a meatpacking environment. The information is good for general knowledge and the best sharpening information begins at 5:30 in the video.
For best results, it takes more than one steel to keep your knives sharp and useable. The hone version, smooth, should be used first to touch up the edge. If that doesn't give you a sharp edge, go to the rough or ridged steel.
Once you have given, usually, 5 or 6 strokes on the sharpening, rough or ridged, steel, then use an equal amount of strokes on the smooth or honing steel. If not properly cared for and stored, hones can develop very small and hard to see nicks and burrs on the surface, especially if stored loosely in a drawer. If that has happened, use first a small piece of green scratcher pad to polish the surface. If that doesn't remove the nicks, use very fine-grit sandpaper to polish the hone. When a polished hone is used on a properly sharpened knife, it will slide across the hone feeling like it is on ball bearings. Do not be afraid to use the sandpaper with firm pressure, it is hardened steel. This does not apply to ceramic steels.
The angle is important. For most knives, usually other than cleavers, an easy way to get the correct angle is to put the knife to the steel at a 90-degree angle and then half the angle (45 degrees), and then half again, (22.5 degrees) and then half one final time. That will give you the proper angle when you have repeated it on both sides.
The last comment that I will make is about the point on the pointed steels. While it may be used to attempt to steady the steel while sharpening, it is very useful for pealing the membrane off of meat. An example is St. Louis ribs. Slide the point between the membrane and the meat until it is fully inserted and then using a damp paper towel, you can pull it away. For my personal use, I have put a relatively sharp point on all my non-ceramic steels for this reason.
Good review.
I have work in a knifecshop and both you and the video are spot on. I am guilty of not using a steel. I use a stone to resharpen a knife. But I literally have drawers full of knives.
Wow, thank you for all that excellent, necessary info! I'm going to save it to use as a reference until it becomes second nature. Now I can sharpen my antique kitchen knives without damaging the blades!
OK, finally ... a vid on honing rods.
These tests are consistently high quality content - excellent stuff !
I know I am late to this, but I have to sincerely thank Lisa and ATK for this video! I was struggling with dull knives and very confused about what to do. I'm also a bit accident prone, and needed a simple and safe approach. We purchased the runner up from this video (it's a bit more $ now, two years later, but still worth it to us because it will pay for itself over time), practiced on an old knife, and had all of our knives slicing paper in a few minutes! Thank you also to Idahone for a wonderful product!
As soon as I saw a new video by you guys and Lisa at the helm I couldn't resist, of course I had to delve in the education that you guys have for me!
This woman looks like she both cooks and takes it seriously enough to make me wanna listen (even though I don't cook much).
Thank you for doing a great job explaining the basics, and the differences! Another great ATK video!
ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR EQUIPMENT REVIEWS!!!!!
Thank you for the video. I like your testing demos!
Thank y'all the detailed information on these. I had no clue how or when to use one.
Wow.. your reviews are the best I ever found on the internet.
Wow, i love the detail and scientific process. Great work. Please keep it up.
This channel is worth its weight in gold.
These videos are amazing...so useful and professional. Keep them up!!
You guys do great work on this channel, LOVE IT
Lisa McManus is by far my favorite reviewer for America's Test Kitchen. Keep 'em coming, Lisa.
So you are very much correct that there are really two different things at play here, honing and sharpening where the former aligns the edge purely through plastic deformation of the steel while the latter removes material to reform the apex of the knife. Here is the issue: fatigue.
The demonstration of the phenomenon is quite simple. Take a paperclip, or even an old flatware spoon/fork/whatever and bend it back and forth repeatedly. What happens? It becomes progressively easier to bend and ultimately breaks. This is due to fatigue in the steel. The exact same thing occurs at the edge of your blade when using a hone. The issue is that you're not removing material, you're bending the edge back and forth repeatedly. This can, on extremely dull knives, create a temporary sense of increased sharpness. Unfortunately, it weakens the edge so it dulls more quickly and that damage may be much deeper than you think. On edges which are already sharp, it causes fracture and separation of the apex, as demonstrated in several studies via electron microscopy. In short, honing is not able to make a knife truly "sharp," only "less dull." When you subsequently move back to your sharpening system, you'll have to remove more metal to properly re-apex the knife. This is because you need to remove all that fatigued metal you created at the apex, not just cut off the shoulders to re-form the apex.
As an aside, I highly recommend spending some time researching publications from the tool and die industry. The cutlery industry has done so little scientific research, and has so much hype and mythos, that bad information persists in cutlery industry dogma which was long ago eradicated from the tool and die industry. Keep in mind that, with the latter, tooling is used for repetitive processes regularly and has to be carefully tracked and replaced when it becomes dull. This makes increases or decreases in performance VERY obvious, and in fact is part of daily operations in a shop. Meanwhile most people would not notice the effects of better or worse cutlery technology because the tasks are so varied and there is no tracking of use. One good drag of an edge along a hard bone vs. hours spent processing vegetables could easily have similar outcomes and it is very difficult to control for that subjectivity.
I hope that helps.
Uh no? In the tool and die industry a bit can get so worn it has to be completely replaced. That comes from high rpm bits cutting through lots and lots of material and being sharpened repeatedly. More than the equivalent of many lifetimes of heavy use for a kitchen knife.
For a kitchen knife amateurs should basically never sharpen them, ever, take them to a professional who has the equipment and experience to do it right. Honing restores the edge more than enough for use until the edge truly needs sharpening. If more steel must be removed it is measured in micrometers and is simply not relevant. I know this for a fact because I worked as a cook in professional kitchens for years and still have the very first knives I ever bought, I don't use them all anymore because of some poor decisions in what to buy, but I have used the exact same Fibrox 8" chef's knife every day for better than 20 years. It's been sharpened dozens of times in that period and it has lost only a 1/4" of length in all that time. And that is a cheap knife with low grade steel. I'm sure the sorts of knives Bob Kramer puts his name on will be far more durable and the winning steel above is his brand.
But what's your conclusion? How would you maintain a kitchen knife?
Tool and dies are typically much harder than kitchen knives, and carbides cannot really be compared to carbon steel. These rods also do remove material and sharpen, as proven in the video, so the part that would fatigue and fail is removed.
@@KenS1267 Professionals are in a hurry; they will heat up the blade and reduce it's edge retention by using something other than a non powered stone. Do you understand what metal fatigue is? - It reduces edge retention beyond the current edge of the blade. Honing causes metal fatigue and is arguable when it comes to practicality (I'll hone kitchen provided 'house' knives, but not my own). Fibrox is a handle type; you're just one of many that don't seem to understand this. 20 years of use means nothing;.You might consider Victorinox low grade steel, but for me it's easy to sharpen, low maintenance, and comes shaving sharp. Their profiles, comfort, and edge angles tend to be spot on. To think that PM or super steels are better without explanation is to fall for marketing hype. The harder steels are indeed better for holding tighter edge angles - but knowing why you want tighter edge angles is an issue also.
@@madthumbs1564First off, on what planet does heating the metal even to 200F have any effect on the steels crystal structure? That's what actually determines the steels hardness and how well it retains an edge. I've seen many knifes get sharpened and I've never seen one get hot enough it couldn't be held by the blade immediately after coming off the stone, that is how every sharpener I've ever seen held the knife on the belt, so it never even got to 200F
Second anyone who hears Fibrox knows exactly what knife is under discussion and yes that is low grade steel. I have a yanagi-ba that cost over $1k when I bought it, almost 10 years ago. The difference in the steel and how well it holds an edge is remarkable.
I know that metal fatigue is utterly irrelevant to this discussion, see 20+ year old chef's knife I hone every time I pick it up.
Lisa is the best host of these, I always enjoy them but her presentation is the best.
I LOVE THESE REVIEWS!!! So valuable.
Love you Lisa! Your reviews are fantastic.
That is great much-needed info thank you
Really appreciate this video. I have confidence in your findings because the testing criteria seems quite sound. I feel like this video will definitely help me choose an effective honing rod that will be gentle on my knife.
Very well done. Thank you for putting it up.
omg i have ALWAYS wondered this. THANK YOU
Another great video Lisa!!
I'm so glad that there was no audio from the video of testing. Just imagining the metal against metal sound gave anxiety. Thank you.
+1
Hi Friend !!!
Get yourself a piece of blue Wedgewood pottery and use it to sharpen your upper incisors !!!
Thank you for saying/ proving that steel rods also remove metal and sharpen the knives as well as realigning the edge.. they act just like files. Very fine files, but files nonetheless. Seems like many of the commenters here missed that part of the video..
Yes; you wouldn't thin a blade, eliminate a dead spot, or change the edge angle with an hone. -They do remove metal though.
@ you're an idiot
Amen, I was a honing rod nonbeliever til this video, and I tried it, and it worked... thx for your videos
Carlos Pimentel
Lol that was me about 25 yrs ago. Enjoy the easy fix
@@ArtU4All Believe me, I've tried thousand times to honed my knives, and I couldn't see or feel any improvement on my knife, until now... and as yoy say I am enjoying it :D
I often forget to hone my blade until I come across something like a tomato or a bunch of chicken I have to process. Makes a huge difference.
Exactly! I always hone before I cut tomatoes and it makes it so much easier.
nothing less than expert advise ......love you girls and guys
Very informative!! You guys are awesome!!!
I almost didn't watch this video. I didn't think I would be interested but curiosity took hold. I'm glad I learned what I had no idea about. Poor grammar I know. Very much appreciate the video and info.
Love these videos! I consult this channel before major equipment purchases. :-)
I've been sharpening almost anything with an edge for most of my life and really enjoyed this show!! What you actually are doing when sharpening is creating a burr then polishing it away,I wear denim pants when sharpening and gently swipe away from me and look for fuzz,no fuzz means the need for more honing,you're very right about a light touch as a heavy hand will ruin your work!! I love this channel!!
Carl Gomm
????
“No fuzz means more honing”- how does it make sense? Fuzz on the knife AND fuzz on the denim would mean “more honing needed”....
@@ArtU4All My friend what I meant by no fuzz means more honing is just that,if there's fuzz to gently remove that means there's a spot that's still dull,carefully removing the fuzz is where you get the edge you're looking for,I wish there was a way I could demonstrate this to you to make it easier to understand,very sorry if I confused you!!
Thank you for this! Biggest mystery in the kitchen SOLVED!
Great info as usual.
Always learning ..... thanks!!
You can restore honing ability, of a ceramic hone, by cleaning it with comet or ajax paste.
Barkeeper's Friend works extremely well. Also for Dutch ovens.
great info again! thanks!
These are all too rich for my blood. I found a river rock while I was out for a hike, brought it home and ground it against another rock until it was smooth. I've been using it ever since to hone the edge of my knives. lol It even has a rough grit side and a super-smooth grit edge. Cost? Priceless!
Love it!
That would cost much more than $40 in time and effort
I watch these videos when choosing new kitchenware. I would have never thought that I would have 5 grand in my kitchen. But... 6 years of slow purchases and new skills. I'm very happy to have them. $300 Dutch oven that will last for generations. Yep. $200 GP knife, again will last for centuries, yep. Thanks for the hard work. I only own 4 knives, and they cost twice what a kohl's big block with 30 knives does, but I prefer mine hands down.
Very informative. Thank you.
Excellent video!
Thanks :)
Lisa, you're amazing 😁
I really enjoy your videos!
@ What does she get wrong?
Equipment videos are the best
Also note that if you have a high-hardness knife (60+ Rockwell, maybe even a little lower), you really need to use a ceramic rod, as few, if any, steel rods are hard enough to reshape a high-hardness knife. Alternatively, you can use a leather strop instead -- go for a hard, flat strop, not the old razor strap type.
I have both. I usually use the strop, because it's very forgiving and you're extremely unlikely to chip a hard, thin blade on it. I use the ceramic rod every so often because it's slightly abrasive and actually polishes the edge a little, extending the time between full resharpenings. If you used a leather strop with honing compound, it would do the same thing, but I'm only using a plain rolled buffalo strop.
Few, I have 2 that are hard enough for my harder knives. I bought them individually. Most steels that come in block sets are junk. IMHO.
When I was volunteering at a local homeless shelter and trying to prepare an evening meal, all their knives were very dull and literally would not cut through food, and of course not a sharpener in sight. So, I went outside and sharpened a couple of knives on the concrete stairs, one for me and one for my helper. Not the best sharpener in the world, but it got the job done.
LOL, I have done that with broken screwdrivers. It works, and of coarse, is a rudimentary shaping process.
Bottom of a ceramic cup works in a pinch too. The unpainted rough ring on the bottom. Learned that while taking a Chinese cooking class in Japan. Learned about your concrete stair edge from a Filipina.
@@765respect I did that for years with a cheapie (Ekco Forge) carbon-steel utility knife I got in a supermarket. Could get a nice cutting edge on the bottom of a coffee mug. I've upped my game since with some nice German and Japanese knives and real whetstones and hones, but it helps to understand the basics-steel that will take an edge and some sort of grit to put that edge on it.
Very well done. A fine point you missed (pun intended) on a couple of the rods was the intentionally swelled handle - look and you’ll note that placing the blade against it sets the angle the manufacturer recommended.
Problem with that is, not every knife is grind to their standard. Even in a factory made knife, there are variances between individual knives, but the also carrying angles between lines within a company or different companies. A 12 degree sle is not a 15 degree angle, but that hone guide hilt doesn't know or care the difference, so you lose precious inches if you're honing a more acute edge.
Not to mention, if you're working a taller knife, like a Chinese chef knife or cleaver, every friggin centimeter counts. It's surprisingly difficult to hone those even on long hones, made nearly impossible if you also have a 15 degree hilt stopping youth from working your 22 degree bone chopper. For those occasions it sometimes does work better to start from thr tip if the hone and pull towards the hilt. What Lisa said about rod stroking in mid air is true, it's sloppy and ineffective, but you can lay the rod down and take a safe and effective horizontal stroke.
@@kiltedcripple Yeah,the first thing I do when I get a new knife is basically remove the factory edge. I like a much shallower angle on the edge than any new knife I have ever bought came with. I realize that makes the edge more fragile but I'm I'm good with that.
I was literally just having a discussion about this. I thought Google was just being creepy like usual but you guys are the ones being creepy! Perfect time! Thanks!
Thank you . . . saved me time and money!
I would like to offer one additional criteria for knowing when to hone. Hold the knife edge-up, and rock the knife side to side by a few degrees, while looking at the cutting edge. If the knife edge has any bits which are locally dulled or curled over portions, you will see light reflecting back at those spots. A truly sharp edge will not show any light reflecting off of the edge when you rock the knife side to side because there isn't anything at the edge to reflect light up at you. A few strokes on the honing stick will sharpen up the blunt bits right up.
I had to watch this as I had no idea what a honing rod was. In Australia, we call them knife steels.
Great info! Thanks!!!!!!
I’ve used a smooth steel rod for about forty ears now. It realigns the steel edge. I use the same rod to burnish and round the edges of my woodworking scrapers. Same principles at work. I also purchased a Smith’s brand fine grade mono-crystaline diamond rod about fifteen years ago. The Smiths fine grade is a 600 to 800 mesh diamond. Which is what scalpels are honed to.
With the combination of the diamond rod to sharpen, and the steel to hone my knives stay razor sharp. And, realistically now that I’m a home cook, I generally only need to address my knife edges once a month or so on my favorite knives, which are the ones I actually use. And, I’m starting to just go to the diamond and a new edge, instead of honing to reestablish an existing edge. Three stroke per side, and I’m done. part of the secret is don’t wait until our knife is dull. Hone as soon as it starts to loose the edge.
I have & use my mom's old ceramic honing rod she got while working at a meat packing plant.
It has the flared edges because they had to hone them in the air right next to other workers.
I also have a borosilicate rod from an industrial/chemistry supply company for my carbon steel Japanese knives as the softer metal of other rods can be nicked by the harder carbon steel of the knives.
Love this channel. May you please do mortar and pestles pleeease 🙏🏽🤞🏽 thank you so much if u do!
love you Lisa 😭😭🥺
Tested and studied a bunch of hones, never any of those tested here so this was helpful.
I use and F.Dick regular round cut steel 12" works great, balanced on the cut and hone.
It is a commercial butchers steel.
Similar to the Kramer and almost the same price.
Great vid. Takes all the guessing out of an often obscure product purchase.
That's the problem; it's a product purchase. A tungsten carbide V sharpener serves the same function and works better for noobs if they don't apply too much pressure. A V sharpener actually is probably better because it doesn't apply lateral stress to the cutting edge causing metal fatigue deep into the blade.
A few comments. One point that wasn't mentioned is that steel hones generally are ineffective for high hardness alloys, such as typically used for Japanese knives. Hones work by "truing" the edge, that is, bringing the edge back into alignment. Sharpening is the process of removing metal to reshape the apex. A smooth steel will only hone/true the edge and will not remove much metal. Steels with ridges will work faster than smooth steels because there is less contact area and thus higher pressure. Steeling should be done with very light pressure, just the weight of the knife. Ceramic is harder than steel, and it will remove metal. You can see the gray steel deposited onto the white ceramic in the video. That is metal removed from the blade. You'll need to clean ceramic with Barkeepers Friend powder (or similar).
If your knives are German/Western style and low hardness, you should steel them very frequently. Ideally you'd steel them every time before use. Most home cooks should have their knives sharpened at least once per year, if not every six months, depending on frequency of use. Higher hardness alloys that don't benefit from steeling should be sharpened on a regular basis.
This is my favorite format for this show. I love Lisa ❤️
lauchingtae232
You don’t like the cooking shows?
Natasha S
Oh I love the cooking shows. I meant specifically for the Equipment Review/Gear Heads series. I like Hannah in Gear Heads but this format of Lisa just talking to the camera giving the facts is my favorite.
All my life I been sharpening my knives at the back of a ceramic's plate base rim. Does wonders :D
Please update toaster oven review! A lot of new products have emerged.
My grandfather was the master butcher at glier's meats in Cincinnati for like 20 years. He bought me a honer this year and wow it was night and day. My cheap knives turned into cutting like Japanese sushi knives. I can cut tomatoes paper thin.
Long ago I discovered a serrated vegetable knife is best for tomatoes, mangoes and other ripe produce. They cut consistently well for a long time if kept in a sheath. I do use a honing every once in a great while on my other knives and always rinse the blade before use.
I wish you would do a review on ceramic blades. I have a Boker 4" paring knife that I use every day, for maybe 12 years, and is still reasonably sharp. 5 years ago, my daughter gave me a 7" Badum Santoku ceramic, still very sharp.
i can totally see her driving to the MIT lab with the trunk full of the knives passing over the speed bumps to the parking lot. haha
I've owned several honing steel. There are several important she did not mentioned about honing steels. If your knife is a 8, inch knife you need to use a 10, in honing steel to sharpen your knife. Because if your knife is the same size or longer than the honing steel you may injure yourself while sharpening the blade. In other words the honing steel must be 2, inches longer than the knife to avoid injury. Secondly, an oval honing steel is much better to use because you have more area of the steel to sharpen your knives with as opposed with than a round sharpening steel.
We love lisa!
Sorry if mentioned before but the diamond rod that tapered had a big piece on the handle/rod juncture that is probably to give you the correct angle to hone at. That is what it looked like to me. I generally use my fine crock sticks instead of honing rod but that was very informative. Thank you.
Hi thank you for your great service. In the end I'm still confused... Should I go for a ceramic, steel or diamond? Thank you!
The first time I used one a couple of decades ago (highly skeptical!) I became a true believer. It surprised me. It worked. Hands down, every time. I am just wondering if the honera should also be replaced from decade to decade. I still use the same ones, and it seems it’s taking more and more strikes to get job done 😉
Natasha, I wonder if your hone just needs to be cleaned? I know whetstones need to be oiled and cleaned every so often. Maybe these are similar?
Thanx! I need this info. I need one. I think.
great video.
I would add that you shouldn't sharpen or hone your knives to "around 15 degrees". You should sharpen or hone your knives to the angle of the blade as it came from the manufacturer. You can buy guides for both honing steels and sharpening stones in various angles as a set so you can get the best results. Plus with the guides you dont have to guess which angle your positioned at.
It's worth noting that between the slashing in the air honing style and the vertical tabletop style there is a middle. I hold the honing steel vertical in my weak hand with my elbow tight against my ribs. I then gently pass the blade across this. This method is as stable as the vertical tabletop method but doesn't require a clean surface. (As you can see in my videos, I have a fairly small kitchen.)
Also, make sure your hone is at least as hard as the knife, and for very hard knives, a ceramic or diamond hone may be better.