Your first tip is very true. While I haven’t really gone up a grade lately, I did start finger boarding about 2 months before coming up to Massachusetts for a few months of instruction. Boarding while fresh HAS made a noticeable change in the amount of time I can hang, and to a small extent, on different holds than regular jugs.
Excellent video. I love the suggestion about stimulation and giving yourself a variety of drills to work on to keep the body guessing and not get bored. I’m going to keep this in mind. Thanks!
Very good advise and nice illustrations by Cullan :) One thing that I might add, is that you can perfectly use long rests between sets to stretch your lower body (hips etc.).
Super helpful and good energy! I have a question. My goals are within route climbing but around where I live there's only bouldering and the gym is closed so I'm limited to training endurance on the fingerboard. Any ideas on how to incorporate power endurance/aerobic workouts (lower intensity, higher volume) into a training plan/periodization?
Wood! Nice one Mix, great to have you back in the fingerboard gang - on another note, got some new holds for the board this week so stay tuned for the reset video next Monday 😜
Definitely! I actually worked a lot on front levers over the last lockdown - I was doing one front lever every half half hour at times over the course of the day. After a few weeks I was feeling super solid on them!!! Previously I’d always struggled with front levers because after a set it takes me forever to recover fully! This worked so well!!!
I have been doing assisted pull ups for endurance at : 6 pull ups, rest 1 minute, times 10 sets with failure at 59th pull. I get the idea of long rests for max effort and single set but what applies in endurance. ? Will try the max hangs when I have finished the endurance block Thanks
I would say the same applies for endurance between sets if you want full recovery. If anything I’d say longer rest perhaps is required for full recovery between endurance sets, however that’s not often practical. Often when doing circuits I’ll have around 10mins rest between each burn. But I don’t think it’s as important to rest fully between sets of endurance. For Max strength you really want to be working on reaching max potential load, whereas in endurance training I feel there is a bit more leeway to be less recovered but still working in that energy system.
Love the advice Robbie!, sounds nice and consistent with what I've been trying lately =D -- Just got back from a trip to Jtree and didn't get too badly slaughtered (EJ Delux is a fun fun climb)!
Hey Robbie. Great video! would love to hear your input on my finger training regime; So I didn't do much research, I just came up with an idea that (kinda) made sense to me and I've been doing it for a couple of weeks now. I don't feel a lot stronger, but definitely feel stronger. So what I'm doing is: fingerboarding 3 times a week (mon/wed/fri) before my climbing session. monday: weighted finger hanging (10% BW) on a 20mm edge 10 sec hang - 50 sec rest: I do this until I cannot hold for more than 7 or 8 seconds (usually at the 8th or 9th rep) wednesday: finger hanging on a 20mm edge with no added weight - 15 sec hang - 30 sec rest: I do this until I cannot hold for more than 12 seconds (usually at the 8th or 9th rep) friday: weighted finger hanging (15-20% BW) on a 20mm edge 5 sec hang - 55 sec rest: I do this until I cannot hold for more than 3 seconds (usually at the 8th or 9th rep) If one of the sessions feel easier (I can reach 10 reps fine, I add weight the next session) Thank you! edit: I'm currently following this training program exclusively using half crimp position, like you mention in this video
I know you asked Robbie for some advice, but I feel a bit inclined to help out here because I like sharing the knowledge that's taken me years and years to attain. I'm impressed you can keep that up throughout a week! I'd caution you though, hangboarding 3 times a week is going to get you injured. Even pros do not hangboard 3 times a week. This is for a few reasons. 1. That's too much max load on your fingers to get enough rest to actually be performing at your max level. Meaning when you do max hangs, you need to be ACTUALLY trying near 90%, which you cannot do if your fingers are tired. Secondly, climbing is a highly complex sport, fingers are only 1 part of the equation (an important part, but only 1 part nonetheless). I would change one of those days to a very short campus session (possibly on the campus board, which will also work your fingers, but in a different way). And lastly, doing anything 3 times a week for several weeks will start to create tightness and overload in 1 area, which will eventually lead to tendonitis or a ruptured pulley. Seen it happen too many times. Yes, hangboarding is safer than a lot of other styles of training, but if you're pushing things 3 times a week, it won't last for long. As most pros/coaches will say, consistency over a long period of time is the MOST IMPORTANT PART. When I say long period of time, if you talk to pros, they've been consistently hangboarding for years and years (Allison Vest has been working on that 1-arm hang for over 5 years! She started at BW and is now holding 80+ lbs! But if she hung 3 times a week, she'd probably have screwed herself and gotten injured many times. This is all to say that 1-2 days a week is highly sufficient. Start light and build over many cycles (not weeks or days, cycles!). If you ever feel like hangboarding is affecting your ability to do your actual climbing workouts or session, then it's too much. Climbing is the main goal here. There are exceptions of course, but rarely should hangboarding take precedent. As a seasoned climber (who has trained for many years and worked with a lot of coaches), for most climbers, 1 day a week is actually great! Use the other days for skill work, accessory work, campusing/power, hip mobility, limit bouldering (this will also work your fingers if done on a board), endurance, etc.. Most of the protocols out there need to be adjusted down for people that only have a year or less of hangboarding experience. Also if you're training max strength, you should NEVER hit failure because you're powered out/tired. The minute you feel like you can't do the next hang as well as you need to, STOP! Your body will thank you down the line. Really, hitting failure is exclusively for power endurance (and even then, unless you're testing, you probably should only come to about 90%). Coming up with your own protocol doesn't make a lot of sense to me when there are so many services/coaches out there with very cheap and proven hangboarding plans that you can follow, which we know keep you healthy and get you stronger. Anyways, not to deter you from training, absolutely train, just be mindful of how much load you're putting on your body. I PROMISE if you slim down your hangboarding, you will feel stronger while climbing.
@@davidbecker54 I really appreciate your reply! Yeah I've been talking with some friends and coaches from my climbing gym and they suggested a somewhat similar approach to what you said. I just had a 10 day rest period (I mean 0 hangboarding, all climbing + some antagonist training) and yesterday I started again with a slightly different "plan". I'm switching to do my hangboard sessions on mondays and fridays, and wednesdays will do some other type of finger training (campusing or another dynamic form of finger training)
I always thought that the rest time allowed in many fingerboard training guides was not enough. Do you think a longer rest period would reduce endurance gains though?
If you don't have weights to add and want to train your max, what are the ways to hang the ideal 1s - 7s time where you build maximum strength, and split your training in 80% - 90% - 100% ? On a Beastmaker 1000 for example, I can hang 2 - 3s the 14mm edge and 15 - 20s the 20mm edge so one is not enough and the other is too much, and to split my training is there any other way than doing 80% of 3s for example lol ?
Thanks for this!! I have two questions: 1: Those long rests will work well if you do another exercise of another muscular group (core or legs) during those 10 mins? 2: I usually do sets of 3 reps of 10'' hang/10'' rest, instead of max weighted hangs. Do you think I could get max effort in this way (harder hold, shorter rest or something like that)? I don't have the equipment to do weighted hangs so I can't get to the 1 rep max hang in 7 secs Thanks again for all the training content! Really on point in the lockdown era hahaha
Hey Jorge, 1) yes and no. I would say doing something using your arms like weighted pull-ups would still take a lot out of you’re forearms so would avoid it if possible. However, what you could do is, Max hang and then have a minute or two then do your weighted pull-ups, then have your 10min break. That way you get two exercises in one. Do the pull ups after the hang! I think some floor core would probably be ok during the 10min break.
2) your 10/10 exercise is not a max strength exercise I’m afraid. You could get the Max hang effort by decreasing the hold size though if you can. But seriously it’s not that hard to do weighted pull-ups: 1) rucksack 2) harness 3) bottles of water/cans of beans 🤣 When I travel in my van 🚐 I do weighted hangs with all sorts of stuff I have on my van because I don’t travel with weights haha
What do you think of the Beastmaker app workouts ? I feel they are great because they force you to use different type of grip and edges but they are pretty tough. Would you recommend to mix that with max hang ?
The beastmaker app workouts are great workouts for sure. As they tend to be longer, more varied and with limited rest, they tend to work more of a strength-endurance element. I’d say they could be a good combo, but always do Max hangs first.
Is the Beastmaker App like the Linebreaker App? There you can change the grip, rest time, hang time and so on to what you personally want and can make your own workouts. So you take the max strength workout and just up the rest time from 40 sec to 10 minutes, and don't change anything else, for exampe.
Yep! Exactly! E.g. A Max 7 second hang! The problem is climbers don’t realise how much this actually takes out of them, but it takes a lot longer than they think for muscles to recover fully. I remember Ondra saying years ago that between burns on a boulder project he’d wait half an hour or more... guess he was into something.
I have started fbing before my bouldering sesions and my fingers imediately felt better. The tenderness i ve been feeling around my A2 for months has actually receded. I dont know if its due to the fb warm up, but theres certainly a corelation.
Interesting... it might be because the fingerboard is providing a better warm up. Or maybe it’s just come at a time when your finger was already getting better?
Great video. Some apps / training programmes indicate a single rep for 10s hang time for strength, whereas others say 7s! Any thoughts on max hang length for strength?
You can get lots of different types of strength hangs from max recruitment hangs for 1-10 seconds, and density hangs for longer periods of 30-60 seconds. I don't think any one is better than the other, but they do provide different stimulus. I would use longer 10 second hangs generally at the start of a strength phase/cycle and slowly introduce shorter time max hangs as I reach the end of a cyle. Personally I've found this to be the safest approach to avoiding injury because max hangs (with added weight or on smaller holds) in shorter time intervals always felt like they were the most intense for me.
@@RobbiePhillips that's interesting, and the part about changing the time to provide stimulus at the end of a strength cycle also makes alot sense too. Thanks!
I would probably rest 10mins For full recovery on Max effort sets. But you don’t always have to rest to full recovery, sometimes it’s good to have less, in which case I’d say between 5-10 mins. I do think it’s more important to rest fully for max strength than for endurance, but if you do want full recovery you will need longer rest times.
What do you think about hypertrophie finger boarding? I think it builds a good foundation for max-hangs and mixes things up if you plateau. I do: ((8sec. hang, 5sec. break)x8)3min. rest)x4
Absolutely! I don’t think there’s any problem in mixing up the rest times for different types of training either, just for max strength you need to be full recovered.
Thanks for the tips! Quick question though, when you say train to your max, you only mean during the week AFTER being at 90%, so only for one week every cycle? (following advice from another one of your videos)
Hey Lucas, When I say max, I mean at around 90-100% intensity. It’s a bit of a difficult thing to define 😅 but I’m talking about “trying really hard!”. Not everyone will follow the same protocols exactly, but they can still apply some of the same concepts. My belief is that when training your max strength (not to be confused with endurance) you have to allow for adequate recovery to be able to push your limits and get those gains.
You said you do a max hang session before a climbing session. Do you actually mean climbing or would it also make sense if I go training on the moon board afterwards?
I find just using a squeeze/stress ball to keep forearms and fingers warm is enough. I usually do a short feet on floor hang as well just before my hang
Hey Robbie, I use the Crimpd app by Lattice. These fellas seem to know their stuff and only provide 2 mins rest for most hang boarding stuff, do you think that there is a reason that they do 2 mins rest? Also, great vid!! Lots of really good info
Yep, Those guys know their stuff for sure! Honestly, I’m not really sure why 2mins is the prescribed rest time for most apps (not just Crimpd app). I think it might be because it fits training into a shorter time window and seems more manageable. Could also be because after 2mins you “feels” rested, but really you aren’t. I’m not here to say that it’s wrong, just that I think there is a better way from what I’ve tried. For me 2mins is no time at all, and having tried and tested longer rest periods I’ve opted for longer rest times - 4mins if I’m trying to get a session done quicker, and as I said in the video, I’ll do 10-15mins rest if I’m in the house for a long time doing stuff. It works really well for training max strength in other areas like front levers and one arm pull ups, and it’s so easy to do. As coaches have always said, rest is as important as the actual training, if not more important.
for fingerboarding it does depend on what else you’re doing. If your balancing with climbing sessions I’d say no more than 2. If you’re not climbing (due to lockdown or other) then you can have 3 sessions.
@@shokland I would say it's OK so long as you don't do it for too long. 3 max strength sessions a week for 4 weeks non stop, you'll feel it! It would be good to vary the intensity in and out with periods of higher volume lower intensity work. It's honestly just a case of learning to listen to your body and do what seems sensible. You could try for example: 2 weeks: Max Strength x 3 with 2 x Endurance 2 weeks: MS x 2 w 2x End Rest week 2 weeks: MS x 3 w 3 End 2 weeks: MS x 2 w 3 End Rest week
Damn boy, someday after the pandemic I wanna challenge the irish sharma to a board war lol! He training like a beast on that hangboard and campus board! It's gottta go downnnn when yall come back to the States LOL, I will make my board ready with some sick holds. I will continue training for him haha. You know dude that is so interesting, I have been following the 3 minute resting routine for high intensity hangs and wondered the same thing. It feels like sometimes 3 minutes isn't too much, maybe I will try to play around with it and start with 5 mins and increase rest time to see how recovered I am. As for the hangboard sessions, I actually am trying to trade one of my climbing days for a pure hangboard session instead of another day of the week of climbing on my 45er. Supposedly for maximal intensity lotta of my friends say this is really advantageous and reduces injury risk when climbing the same day of a shorter hangboard session.
Not really sure what you mean with your plan, but I would generally always put climbing in priority to fingerboarding in terms of importance. It’s rare that I’d sacrifice a climbing day for fingerboard. I think there is a way you can manage both
@@RobbiePhillips Oh I was referring to longer rest times. From lots of climbing training resources I always hear them say rest about 3 minutes between each set when doing high intensity fingerboarding. Rather than take the recommended 3 minutes of rest I always hear I think I might play with longer rest times, i.e. 5 mins and etc. Yea I think you are right about that, climbing is such an invaluable activity in terms of training to totally throw out of a training plan. I guess it's hard to balance high intensity fingerboarding and training on my 45er lol. I'll play around with my training plan in the future and mix them together forsure.
@@zolbly Yeah totlly man, I think a lot of resources just use a standard 2-3min rest time because they consider it time efficient and its almost become a standard rest time. I actually think its wrong for max strength training. Its always hard to balance everything. I don't think its wrong to swap out a climbing session for a fb session in the short term e.g. If you wanted to have a shorter more efficient fb session if you're busy, or if you were trying to train some physical aspect really specifically. However long term we need to put climbing first!
That’s fine. The focus should be on keeping a solid half crimp (don’t twist your wrist too much) - the pinky straight or bent comes down mostly to morphology of hand. I can’t keep it bent as I have short pinkies, but I do know a few folk who can keep it bent (long pinky freaks!) hha
@@RobbiePhillips What's with the thumb though? When i try really hard, my thumb goes into the full crimp but not on top of my fingers but into my palm. Is that too much? Should i have my thumb straight? Or is it different for everyone?
@@TorianCarrConn80 That's a tricky one idk what that means for extra tendon engagement dude, I think physio that specializes in climbing rehab might know this. Usually full crimp comes from thumb on top. But you know what truthfully for hangboarding or just climbing in general, a griptype can become very intense if your DIP joint gets hyper extended just as in the most extreme version of a full crimping is illustrated usually. What that means is you don't have to even engage the thumb on top of your hand to put way too much load on your tendons in your fingers, as long as you are bending or hyperextending the DIP joint that is when the load on your tendons/pulleys is being near full throttled. If you are fingerboarding or campus boarding honestly I'd say you are putting way too much load on your tendons if you ever need to hyperextend your DIP joints. Sometimes though if you are training on really small holds (I guess 8mm and lower for most ppl) it's ok to disengage the thumb but hyperextend the DIP joint because at that level you are resilient enough to handle that and it's just way too hard to prevent hyperextending of the DIP joint.
Every time I look in the direction of a finger board I pick up an injury. Still suffering from golfers elbow from the last time I glanced at the finger board.
Literally fingerboarding when I found this video... wondering why I struggle so much with 6mm micros. 8mm's are easy. Same with monos on the bm 2000, and the 45'ers. IM TOO FUCKIN WEAK.
Hahaha! I'll be honest, I have never trained on the 6mm's! I tried them ages ago but found them quite painful. I'd like to build up soon to some micro edge training though. Monos on the BM2000 is more of a comfort thing for me. If I train them regularly I can hang them pretty quickly!
nice vid robbie but there was too much action shots and not enough of you talking. can you also use a laser pointer next time please? Anyway... i've never had ANY structure to my fingerboarding, so please let me ask dumb questions! how long do you rest during your warm up cycle? Assume a minute or two while you are building up to max, like 4 hangs with increasing weight, a minute or two rest in between, then ten mins rest between max hangs (or 80% hangs if you are in an 80% week). How many hangs at max - 3? so about a 40 min sesh in total (with time to play the harmonica in between!)
Yeah, so my warm up is always pretty similar: 1) Make Tea + hold warm mug 2) squeeze squishy ball 3) use my carbon edge to buildup crimp resistance 4) do some feet on foor hangs 5) do some foot off hangs Rest times between hangs at this stage aren’t long 1-2 mins (it’s not intense) As I start to add weight I increase rest time until it feels like I need it
And I don’t always do the 10mins rest (only sometimes). But yeah usually I do around 4-6 sets at maximum :) with a couple of sets at near max during the warm up
@@RobbiePhillips Lmfao it must be cause it's cold af in there. GG for being able to shoot that video in there Robbie lol I bet warming up on the woody is pretty hard in the cold.
This has been the most refreshing video on hanging for my whole stay at home order. Thanks.
Woop 🙌 Thanks man, glad it helped!!!
Good to know about the longer resting periods
I’ll try the 10 minutes and write my essays inbetween sets. Lets see how chalky my laptop gets :D. Thanks for the tips.
Hahaha! Yeah that is the real crux of these sessions 😅
You could Use a towel to get excess chalk off your hands in between hangs.
Your first tip is very true. While I haven’t really gone up a grade lately, I did start finger boarding about 2 months before coming up to Massachusetts for a few months of instruction. Boarding while fresh HAS made a noticeable change in the amount of time I can hang, and to a small extent, on different holds than regular jugs.
Love more rest between sets!!! TRy harder less injuries
thats really helpfull informations , thanks Robbie for making this video 🤙🤙
Woop! No worries dude :)
Excellent video. I love the suggestion about stimulation and giving yourself a variety of drills to work on to keep the body guessing and not get bored. I’m going to keep this in mind. Thanks!
Very good advise and nice illustrations by Cullan :) One thing that I might add, is that you can perfectly use long rests between sets to stretch your lower body (hips etc.).
Oh yeah of course! Stretching is great between sets
Super helpful and good energy! I have a question. My goals are within route climbing but around where I live there's only bouldering and the gym is closed so I'm limited to training endurance on the fingerboard. Any ideas on how to incorporate power endurance/aerobic workouts (lower intensity, higher volume) into a training plan/periodization?
This was excellent!
Thanks man!
really interesting video, thank you!
No worries 😉 thanks
Great Video! It gave me a lot to think about and has psyched me to start Fingerboarding again. 😁
Wood! Nice one Mix, great to have you back in the fingerboard gang - on another note, got some new holds for the board this week so stay tuned for the reset video next Monday 😜
@@RobbiePhillips Yes mate. I’m really looking forward to that one. P.S lovin Culanns appearance in this vid. 😂
@@mixcrimpcunningham4535 Hahaha, yeah he was the model in this one :P
Would you recommend resting more than 4 minutes for other strenght exercises? Like weighted pull ups?
Definitely! I actually worked a lot on front levers over the last lockdown - I was doing one front lever every half half hour at times over the course of the day. After a few weeks I was feeling super solid on them!!! Previously I’d always struggled with front levers because after a set it takes me forever to recover fully! This worked so well!!!
Cheers Robbie I will try the 10 min rests - could you do one on using a 40 board for training? What works best in a systematic way?
We’ve just done a video on setting up your 45 board for this Monday, but planning another more specific to training shortly
@@RobbiePhillips Nice! I will check it out. Cheers
I have been doing assisted pull ups for endurance at : 6 pull ups, rest 1 minute, times 10 sets with failure at 59th pull.
I get the idea of long rests for max effort and single set but what applies in endurance. ?
Will try the max hangs when I have finished the endurance block
Thanks
I would say the same applies for endurance between sets if you want full recovery. If anything I’d say longer rest perhaps is required for full recovery between endurance sets, however that’s not often practical. Often when doing circuits I’ll have around 10mins rest between each burn.
But I don’t think it’s as important to rest fully between sets of endurance. For Max strength you really want to be working on reaching max potential load, whereas in endurance training I feel there is a bit more leeway to be less recovered but still working in that energy system.
Your vid is great, bro - subbed
Love the advice Robbie!, sounds nice and consistent with what I've been trying lately =D -- Just got back from a trip to Jtree and didn't get too badly slaughtered (EJ Delux is a fun fun climb)!
Hahah nioce one dude! Cant wait to go back to JTree
Hey Robbie. Great video! would love to hear your input on my finger training regime; So I didn't do much research, I just came up with an idea that (kinda) made sense to me and I've been doing it for a couple of weeks now. I don't feel a lot stronger, but definitely feel stronger.
So what I'm doing is: fingerboarding 3 times a week (mon/wed/fri) before my climbing session.
monday: weighted finger hanging (10% BW) on a 20mm edge 10 sec hang - 50 sec rest: I do this until I cannot hold for more than 7 or 8 seconds (usually at the 8th or 9th rep)
wednesday: finger hanging on a 20mm edge with no added weight - 15 sec hang - 30 sec rest: I do this until I cannot hold for more than 12 seconds (usually at the 8th or 9th rep)
friday: weighted finger hanging (15-20% BW) on a 20mm edge 5 sec hang - 55 sec rest: I do this until I cannot hold for more than 3 seconds (usually at the 8th or 9th rep)
If one of the sessions feel easier (I can reach 10 reps fine, I add weight the next session)
Thank you!
edit: I'm currently following this training program exclusively using half crimp position, like you mention in this video
I know you asked Robbie for some advice, but I feel a bit inclined to help out here because I like sharing the knowledge that's taken me years and years to attain. I'm impressed you can keep that up throughout a week! I'd caution you though, hangboarding 3 times a week is going to get you injured. Even pros do not hangboard 3 times a week. This is for a few reasons. 1. That's too much max load on your fingers to get enough rest to actually be performing at your max level. Meaning when you do max hangs, you need to be ACTUALLY trying near 90%, which you cannot do if your fingers are tired. Secondly, climbing is a highly complex sport, fingers are only 1 part of the equation (an important part, but only 1 part nonetheless). I would change one of those days to a very short campus session (possibly on the campus board, which will also work your fingers, but in a different way). And lastly, doing anything 3 times a week for several weeks will start to create tightness and overload in 1 area, which will eventually lead to tendonitis or a ruptured pulley. Seen it happen too many times. Yes, hangboarding is safer than a lot of other styles of training, but if you're pushing things 3 times a week, it won't last for long. As most pros/coaches will say, consistency over a long period of time is the MOST IMPORTANT PART. When I say long period of time, if you talk to pros, they've been consistently hangboarding for years and years (Allison Vest has been working on that 1-arm hang for over 5 years! She started at BW and is now holding 80+ lbs! But if she hung 3 times a week, she'd probably have screwed herself and gotten injured many times. This is all to say that 1-2 days a week is highly sufficient. Start light and build over many cycles (not weeks or days, cycles!). If you ever feel like hangboarding is affecting your ability to do your actual climbing workouts or session, then it's too much. Climbing is the main goal here. There are exceptions of course, but rarely should hangboarding take precedent.
As a seasoned climber (who has trained for many years and worked with a lot of coaches), for most climbers, 1 day a week is actually great! Use the other days for skill work, accessory work, campusing/power, hip mobility, limit bouldering (this will also work your fingers if done on a board), endurance, etc.. Most of the protocols out there need to be adjusted down for people that only have a year or less of hangboarding experience. Also if you're training max strength, you should NEVER hit failure because you're powered out/tired. The minute you feel like you can't do the next hang as well as you need to, STOP! Your body will thank you down the line. Really, hitting failure is exclusively for power endurance (and even then, unless you're testing, you probably should only come to about 90%). Coming up with your own protocol doesn't make a lot of sense to me when there are so many services/coaches out there with very cheap and proven hangboarding plans that you can follow, which we know keep you healthy and get you stronger. Anyways, not to deter you from training, absolutely train, just be mindful of how much load you're putting on your body. I PROMISE if you slim down your hangboarding, you will feel stronger while climbing.
@@davidbecker54 I really appreciate your reply! Yeah I've been talking with some friends and coaches from my climbing gym and they suggested a somewhat similar approach to what you said. I just had a 10 day rest period (I mean 0 hangboarding, all climbing + some antagonist training) and yesterday I started again with a slightly different "plan". I'm switching to do my hangboard sessions on mondays and fridays, and wednesdays will do some other type of finger training (campusing or another dynamic form of finger training)
@@joaquincasco89 Nice! Sounds like you have a more sustainable plan lined up
I always thought that the rest time allowed in many fingerboard training guides was not enough. Do you think a longer rest period would reduce endurance gains though?
If you don't have weights to add and want to train your max, what are the ways to hang the ideal 1s - 7s time where you build maximum strength, and split your training in 80% - 90% - 100% ? On a Beastmaker 1000 for example, I can hang 2 - 3s the 14mm edge and 15 - 20s the 20mm edge so one is not enough and the other is too much, and to split my training is there any other way than doing 80% of 3s for example lol ?
Thanks for this!! I have two questions:
1: Those long rests will work well if you do another exercise of another muscular group (core or legs) during those 10 mins?
2: I usually do sets of 3 reps of 10'' hang/10'' rest, instead of max weighted hangs. Do you think I could get max effort in this way (harder hold, shorter rest or something like that)? I don't have the equipment to do weighted hangs so I can't get to the 1 rep max hang in 7 secs
Thanks again for all the training content! Really on point in the lockdown era hahaha
Hey Jorge,
1) yes and no. I would say doing something using your arms like weighted pull-ups would still take a lot out of you’re forearms so would avoid it if possible. However, what you could do is, Max hang and then have a minute or two then do your weighted pull-ups, then have your 10min break. That way you get two exercises in one. Do the pull ups after the hang!
I think some floor core would probably be ok during the 10min break.
2) your 10/10 exercise is not a max strength exercise I’m afraid. You could get the Max hang effort by decreasing the hold size though if you can. But seriously it’s not that hard to do weighted pull-ups:
1) rucksack
2) harness
3) bottles of water/cans of beans 🤣
When I travel in my van 🚐 I do weighted hangs with all sorts of stuff I have on my van because I don’t travel with weights haha
What do you think of the Beastmaker app workouts ? I feel they are great because they force you to use different type of grip and edges but they are pretty tough.
Would you recommend to mix that with max hang ?
The beastmaker app workouts are great workouts for sure. As they tend to be longer, more varied and with limited rest, they tend to work more of a strength-endurance element. I’d say they could be a good combo, but always do Max hangs first.
@@RobbiePhillips thx a lot for the answer. I will adapt my training plan accordingly then 👍
Is the Beastmaker App like the Linebreaker App? There you can change the grip, rest time, hang time and so on to what you personally want and can make your own workouts. So you take the max strength workout and just up the rest time from 40 sec to 10 minutes, and don't change anything else, for exampe.
Just to be clear is a "set", just one 7 second hang? so I should do 10 mins rest, 7 sec hang, 10 mins rest, 7 sec hang ?
yes
Yep! Exactly! E.g. A Max 7 second hang! The problem is climbers don’t realise how much this actually takes out of them, but it takes a lot longer than they think for muscles to recover fully. I remember Ondra saying years ago that between burns on a boulder project he’d wait half an hour or more... guess he was into something.
yes, it's intense 7 seconds.
7 seconds of hell
😈🔥7 seconds🔥👹
I have started fbing before my bouldering sesions and my fingers imediately felt better. The tenderness i ve been feeling around my A2 for months has actually receded. I dont know if its due to the fb warm up, but theres certainly a corelation.
Interesting... it might be because the fingerboard is providing a better warm up. Or maybe it’s just come at a time when your finger was already getting better?
Great video. Some apps / training programmes indicate a single rep for 10s hang time for strength, whereas others say 7s! Any thoughts on max hang length for strength?
You can get lots of different types of strength hangs from max recruitment hangs for 1-10 seconds, and density hangs for longer periods of 30-60 seconds.
I don't think any one is better than the other, but they do provide different stimulus. I would use longer 10 second hangs generally at the start of a strength phase/cycle and slowly introduce shorter time max hangs as I reach the end of a cyle. Personally I've found this to be the safest approach to avoiding injury because max hangs (with added weight or on smaller holds) in shorter time intervals always felt like they were the most intense for me.
@@RobbiePhillips that's interesting, and the part about changing the time to provide stimulus at the end of a strength cycle also makes alot sense too. Thanks!
Awesome! Thanks
No worries
How long would you rest between repeaters sets? (with usual 7:3s protocol, 6 sets)
I would probably rest 10mins For full recovery on Max effort sets. But you don’t always have to rest to full recovery, sometimes it’s good to have less, in which case I’d say between 5-10 mins.
I do think it’s more important to rest fully for max strength than for endurance, but if you do want full recovery you will need longer rest times.
@@RobbiePhillips thanks for your reply, I'm certainly gonna try it!
What do you think about hypertrophie finger boarding?
I think it builds a good foundation for max-hangs and mixes things up if you plateau.
I do: ((8sec. hang, 5sec. break)x8)3min. rest)x4
Absolutely! I don’t think there’s any problem in mixing up the rest times for different types of training either, just for max strength you need to be full recovered.
Thanks for the tips! Quick question though, when you say train to your max, you only mean during the week AFTER being at 90%, so only for one week every cycle? (following advice from another one of your videos)
Hey Lucas,
When I say max, I mean at around 90-100% intensity. It’s a bit of a difficult thing to define 😅 but I’m talking about “trying really hard!”. Not everyone will follow the same protocols exactly, but they can still apply some of the same concepts.
My belief is that when training your max strength (not to be confused with endurance) you have to allow for adequate recovery to be able to push your limits and get those gains.
You said you do a max hang session before a climbing session. Do you actually mean climbing or would it also make sense if I go training on the moon board afterwards?
Absolutely! I do a max hang session before board sessions :)
With a 10 minute rest, won't I cool down too much? Do I need to do anything to keep the muscles warm?
I find just using a squeeze/stress ball to keep forearms and fingers warm is enough. I usually do a short feet on floor hang as well just before my hang
Can do 5 pull ups with 5kg on 5mm edge. Still struggling with opening jars, Any tips?
More specific training is necessary. You need a pickle jar trainer
Gotta work the pinches too yo! Get that thumb strong.
@@clown5911 Veery true!
Hey Robbie, I use the Crimpd app by Lattice. These fellas seem to know their stuff and only provide 2 mins rest for most hang boarding stuff, do you think that there is a reason that they do 2 mins rest?
Also, great vid!! Lots of really good info
Yep, Those guys know their stuff for sure! Honestly, I’m not really sure why 2mins is the prescribed rest time for most apps (not just Crimpd app). I think it might be because it fits training into a shorter time window and seems more manageable. Could also be because after 2mins you “feels” rested, but really you aren’t. I’m not here to say that it’s wrong, just that I think there is a better way from what I’ve tried. For me 2mins is no time at all, and having tried and tested longer rest periods I’ve opted for longer rest times - 4mins if I’m trying to get a session done quicker, and as I said in the video, I’ll do 10-15mins rest if I’m in the house for a long time doing stuff. It works really well for training max strength in other areas like front levers and one arm pull ups, and it’s so easy to do. As coaches have always said, rest is as important as the actual training, if not more important.
@@RobbiePhillips That makes sense! Thanks for the reply mate!
Very useful vid. Thanks! How many times a week would you recommend high intensity sessions?
for fingerboarding it does depend on what else you’re doing. If your balancing with climbing sessions I’d say no more than 2. If you’re not climbing (due to lockdown or other) then you can have 3 sessions.
@@RobbiePhillips Ok - so during lock down 3 times would be fine? Even with some additional endurance aerobic hang boarding?
@@shokland I would say it's OK so long as you don't do it for too long. 3 max strength sessions a week for 4 weeks non stop, you'll feel it! It would be good to vary the intensity in and out with periods of higher volume lower intensity work. It's honestly just a case of learning to listen to your body and do what seems sensible.
You could try for example:
2 weeks: Max Strength x 3 with 2 x Endurance
2 weeks: MS x 2 w 2x End
Rest week
2 weeks: MS x 3 w 3 End
2 weeks: MS x 2 w 3 End
Rest week
@@RobbiePhillips Thanks for the great advise!
Great question Steffens! Robbie, How often do you recommend hangboarding wizen doing 2 limit board sessions in a week?
Damn boy, someday after the pandemic I wanna challenge the irish sharma to a board war lol! He training like a beast on that hangboard and campus board! It's gottta go downnnn when yall come back to the States LOL, I will make my board ready with some sick holds. I will continue training for him haha.
You know dude that is so interesting, I have been following the 3 minute resting routine for high intensity hangs and wondered the same thing. It feels like sometimes 3 minutes isn't too much, maybe I will try to play around with it and start with 5 mins and increase rest time to see how recovered I am. As for the hangboard sessions, I actually am trying to trade one of my climbing days for a pure hangboard session instead of another day of the week of climbing on my 45er. Supposedly for maximal intensity lotta of my friends say this is really advantageous and reduces injury risk when climbing the same day of a shorter hangboard session.
Haha were totally up for that!
Not really sure what you mean with your plan, but I would generally always put climbing in priority to fingerboarding in terms of importance. It’s rare that I’d sacrifice a climbing day for fingerboard. I think there is a way you can manage both
@@RobbiePhillips Oh I was referring to longer rest times. From lots of climbing training resources I always hear them say rest about 3 minutes between each set when doing high intensity fingerboarding. Rather than take the recommended 3 minutes of rest I always hear I think I might play with longer rest times, i.e. 5 mins and etc.
Yea I think you are right about that, climbing is such an invaluable activity in terms of training to totally throw out of a training plan. I guess it's hard to balance high intensity fingerboarding and training on my 45er lol. I'll play around with my training plan in the future and mix them together forsure.
@@zolbly Yeah totlly man, I think a lot of resources just use a standard 2-3min rest time because they consider it time efficient and its almost become a standard rest time. I actually think its wrong for max strength training.
Its always hard to balance everything. I don't think its wrong to swap out a climbing session for a fb session in the short term e.g. If you wanted to have a shorter more efficient fb session if you're busy, or if you were trying to train some physical aspect really specifically. However long term we need to put climbing first!
Does it matter if your little finger isnt at a 90 degree bend during half crimp?
That’s fine. The focus should be on keeping a solid half crimp (don’t twist your wrist too much) - the pinky straight or bent comes down mostly to morphology of hand. I can’t keep it bent as I have short pinkies, but I do know a few folk who can keep it bent (long pinky freaks!) hha
@@RobbiePhillips nice one cheers!
@@RobbiePhillips What's with the thumb though? When i try really hard, my thumb goes into the full crimp but not on top of my fingers but into my palm. Is that too much? Should i have my thumb straight? Or is it different for everyone?
@@TorianCarrConn80 That's a tricky one idk what that means for extra tendon engagement dude, I think physio that specializes in climbing rehab might know this. Usually full crimp comes from thumb on top. But you know what truthfully for hangboarding or just climbing in general, a griptype can become very intense if your DIP joint gets hyper extended just as in the most extreme version of a full crimping is illustrated usually. What that means is you don't have to even engage the thumb on top of your hand to put way too much load on your tendons in your fingers, as long as you are bending or hyperextending the DIP joint that is when the load on your tendons/pulleys is being near full throttled. If you are fingerboarding or campus boarding honestly I'd say you are putting way too much load on your tendons if you ever need to hyperextend your DIP joints. Sometimes though if you are training on really small holds (I guess 8mm and lower for most ppl) it's ok to disengage the thumb but hyperextend the DIP joint because at that level you are resilient enough to handle that and it's just way too hard to prevent hyperextending of the DIP joint.
Every time I look in the direction of a finger board I pick up an injury. Still suffering from golfers elbow from the last time I glanced at the finger board.
Maybe try blindfolded Fingerboard sessions?
Literally fingerboarding when I found this video... wondering why I struggle so much with 6mm micros. 8mm's are easy. Same with monos on the bm 2000, and the 45'ers. IM TOO FUCKIN WEAK.
Hahaha! I'll be honest, I have never trained on the 6mm's! I tried them ages ago but found them quite painful. I'd like to build up soon to some micro edge training though.
Monos on the BM2000 is more of a comfort thing for me. If I train them regularly I can hang them pretty quickly!
Are you still fully warmed up after 15minutes rest?
Yep. Usually what I do is I have a little squishy stress ball type thing that I use a min before I deadhang
nice vid robbie but there was too much action shots and not enough of you talking. can you also use a laser pointer next time please? Anyway... i've never had ANY structure to my fingerboarding, so please let me ask dumb questions! how long do you rest during your warm up cycle? Assume a minute or two while you are building up to max, like 4 hangs with increasing weight, a minute or two rest in between, then ten mins rest between max hangs (or 80% hangs if you are in an 80% week). How many hangs at max - 3? so about a 40 min sesh in total (with time to play the harmonica in between!)
Yeah, so my warm up is always pretty similar:
1) Make Tea + hold warm mug
2) squeeze squishy ball
3) use my carbon edge to buildup crimp resistance
4) do some feet on foor hangs
5) do some foot off hangs
Rest times between hangs at this stage aren’t long 1-2 mins (it’s not intense)
As I start to add weight I increase rest time until it feels like I need it
And I don’t always do the 10mins rest (only sometimes). But yeah usually I do around 4-6 sets at maximum :) with a couple of sets at near max during the warm up
Cool thanks
Early gang
Robbie is becoming one of my favorite youtubers recently! His board videos got me interested..
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10 minute rest is absurd dude.
It works though
why do you look so pale bro?
I’m scottish mate 🏴
@@RobbiePhillips I'm gad you're not sick, must be the lighting in this vid.
@@RobbiePhillips Lmfao it must be cause it's cold af in there. GG for being able to shoot that video in there Robbie lol I bet warming up on the woody is pretty hard in the cold.
It was 0 degrees Celsius when we filmed that! So freezing 🥶 literally haha 😆 my hands were like ice!