What causes the actual reverse, is the fact that the outside pinion gear is turning the outside (reverse) gear, making the sled go in reverse because gear-on-gear creates a reverse effect, whereas gears driven by a chain or belt, retain the same direction of the source. When the reverse gear is on the outside position (reverse engaged) the spline collar stays with the reverse gear, so the main gear is still turning but not connected to the drive, it's the reverse gear doing the work at this point. Check at around 12:10 - 12:15, you can clearly see the spline shaft coming out, "sticking" with the reverse gear, basically no longer has an effect on the main gear. It's a rather clever invention come to think of it. That's my story and I am sticking to it. I just realized all of this watching your video, never knew how it worked beforehand; so thank you!!
Reverse slips /whines loudly. Taking mine apart now, this is exactly the same as my 570 deluxe ski doo . Changed the chain oil once before so I’ve been in there before . Can’t wait to see what I’ll find . Very confident however on having watched your tutorial on the subject. Thank you, your vid will remain in infamy.
Thanks Dave, glad I could help. Hope nothing major is wrong, check your adjustment on the cable, sometimes if it not engaging all the way it will make all kinds of racket.
Good explanation thanks for taking your time to make this video Also loctite that bottom bolt or it will back out and wear through your chaincace cover.
Replacing all drive and skid bearings in the next few weeks on a new to me 1995 XLT Touring with reverse that I just bought. This was very helpful! I've had a regular non-reverse chaincase apart before but this is my first sled with rev.
It can be a bit daunting but I had the schematic which helped tremendously and I talked with a mechanic who helped me. I'm glad it helped you, thanks for watching.
I just did one of these reverse chain cases blind, pretty straight forward if you take your time. But now I'm watching some videos. I just pushed that spring in by hand using a deep well socket with a bolt inside of the socket to start the bolt in there. Problem I'm having now is fork location and adjustment, and I think I'm missing a clip that holds the rod onto the fork. Buddy said reverse never worked since he got it and he fried the chain.
the trick i used to get the bottom sprocket bolt started. i used a piece of wood 1''x1'' and about 3 1/2" long and wedged it between snowmobiles belly pan wall and that kept the spring compressed enough to get the bolt started.
Glad I could help. When I made the video there was none out there at the time to explain the procedure, so I thought let's make one to help out anybody else going through this install. Hopefully you'll be successful.
Thank you so much for this video. I'm just about to pop open a chaincase of a 2003 Polaris sport Touring and it's always nice to see beforehand a hint of what you could expect to find. =)
You'll have to have a reverse lever to do the job, either the flipper lever I have or an add on of some sort. The reverse kits are hard to find on the older sleds, but ebay can be a good source to find one. Thanks for watching.
Putting on that lower bolt reminds me of when I had to install the reverse gear of my brothers 1998 Polaris XC 700 in the wedge chassis and there is no room to get your hands in between the belly pan the trailing arm and the reverse gear there's like a half an inch of room. I think my brother and I spent two hours trying to get that bolt in
Sorry for the delay on the reply. That bottom bolt that holds the reverse gear on is a bear to install. But I found on my second attempt that you didn't have to compress the spring to get it started, the bolt was long enough to get started without compressing the spring. Thanks for taking a look Streeter.
@@deemoney79 Boy I do not know. I would guess it probably is, can you run a die over it to clean up the threads? It's a difficult bolt to install, hard to reach and see.
Thanks Rusty, if it wasn't for the exploded view and some instruction from the local dealer I'd be lost. Not really a hard job, you just have to know what gear goes where. Thanks for watching.
You can, but you have to have all the components to make it work. Like gears, chain, and a flip lever or mechanism to shift it from forward to reverse. But it can be done.
I know this video is old, but do you happen to know the specifications of the chain itself? My chain broke and it does not match the OEM size for the chain that was on the sled. My chain was 66 links long and 13wide. The OEM size says it should be 64 links long and 13 wide. Not sure which to get since the one I had on it was 66long.
This job is a pain in the ass if your sled has CRC front suspension. Note the trailing arms on this sled are way out from the centerline of the chassis. Not so on CRC sleds. The trailing arms are mounted much closer and make it very tight between the case and nosepan. Worse yet is doing chaincase work on sleds with 4 driver driveshafts. Also, non-factory equipped with reverse sleds equipped with the HYVO chain won’t have washers behind the sprockets. If the bearings have never been replaced, always say f-it and replace the bearings seals. And use sealed bearings because on open bearings, there is only a seal stopping the oil from running out if the shit hits the fan on a trail. Lastly, there are seal sleeves and o-rings on the jack shaft and driveshaft. Always check the sleeves and replace the o-rings with the new o-rings facing out. The sleeves have a knife edge that faces inwards. If the sleeves are hosed, your new chaincase bearing oil sleeves ain’t going to last very long.
Do the washers you mention in the very beginning on the shafts a part of the original set up or do they come with the reverse kit? I have a kit I want to put on, haven’t gotten into it yet, wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing parts before I got started.
The washers were there, this sled originally came from the factory with reverse and the guy I bought off of took the reverse gears out, for some reason, and made it just a forward drive. So the washers were still there from the original reverse setup. I don't know if a sled that did not come with reverse has those washers or not, but they are needed for the reverse gear setup to work. Hope this helps.
i filled gear oil on the chain case. would that be too thick? the 2 bolts on the chaincase cover, are they for filling and the getting correct level? the upper has a square in it, the lower is a 15 mm
Do not use gear oil it's way too thick for cold weather running, you can find chaincase oil at your Polaris dealer or I use Amsoil chaincase oil and pour your oil in the dipstick hole and it doesn't take much, but just add a little and keep checking it with your dipstick until you show full on your dipstick. Hope this helps.
Sounds like you may need to adjust the chain in the chain case. Mine will make a clunk when shifting from forward to reverse and back again. Just don't give it a lot of gas when making the change.
@@snowking55 jess. my guess would be a terrible chain. Men it feels like the "slam" is comming at the left foot. where the secondary is. so i dont know... im allways carefull on the gas until it "Hooks". but even then the slam feels right into my soul. it sounds terrible.
I can't figure out why someone would remove reverse ? Other than for racing to reduce weight ? What type of oil did you use for the chain case ? My vector calls for "GL3 75-80w " I can't find that anywhere ! I use synthetic gear oil in the other sleds. Mark
The guy I bought it off of got took. He ran the chaincase dry and it tied up the chain, he took it to a local fix-it guy and the guy told him the gears were shot so he replaced everything with the cheaper forward gear setup but kept all the reverse gears and hardware. There was nothing wrong with the gears it just needed a new chain. So I won on that deal. I use Amsoil synthetic snowmobile gear oil.
Hi Dave, I do not know for sure, I'd do some research on line. Get a parts schematic for your sled and the 96 Classic and compare. If they look a like they should fit, but check with a dealer they may know without having to look.
There is a chain adjuster on the front side of the chain case that has a roller that rides against the chain with a bolt that adjusts the tension by turning it in or out. I usually like my chain to have just a little slack, just don't tighten the adjuster to the point the chain is tight with no slack. Hope this helps.
Boy I really don't remember if there is an orientation or not. Do a review of the video and stop it where you see the fork and maybe that will answer your question, sorry, it's been 6 years and I don't remember like I used to.
Hi Ken I'm back ! I took the chain case cover off the touring and all was good in there. Very clean. Now I put it all back together and I can't find any info for the torque spec on the large bolt the goes into the pinion shaft. You were talking about it in your video but didn't show the final assembly. Is there a spec for that bolt ? I tightened it to 25 ft/lb for now. But I'm worried about it.I have the same drawing you have . The one on the left of your bench. It just says O-ring and doesn't show the bolt. can you help me ?Mark
Hi Mark, sorry for the slow response, I've been gone a week fishing in Michigan. As far as torque specs go, I had none to work with so I just put it back together tight. You might find something online. I looked at the online manual I downloaded and found a few specs. Top bolt for Jackshaft - 50 ft.lbs castle nut & 65 ft. lbs. for Flex Loc nut. Bot. chaincase sprocket bolt - 19 ft.lbs. There was no spec I could find for the pinion gears. Hope this helps. Ken
Hi Ken, Hope you did well on your fishing trip. I was getting worried about you ! I found a spec online for the pinion gear bolt it's 26 ft lb so I was close when I guessed at 25 . Thanks so much for your help we have a good community going here .Mark
Just picked up a reverse assembly for my ‘99 xc500sp, studying your video very carefully, thanks! Would you recommend putting rtv sealant on the cases?
Thanks for watching. You can put on a sealant, I didn't do it on this job, but I have in the past. If your seal is new it should seal without any added sealant.
Just got my new fork dowels delivered, pressed them and am ready to finish the install. Problem now is squeezing the case in past the molded plastic, no clearance. May have to heat it with a hair dryer to make it pliable. All part of the mod I guess, all good.
I would imagine you could if the chaincase appears the same as mine. The problem may be finding a reverse gear kit. You also need the flipper lever on your handlebar to shift it from forward to reverse. Have fun!
Boy I don't know if they made a reverse kit for the Indy Lite. I owned one once, but I can't remember if it had a chaincase or it was direct drive. You'll have to do some research to see if something will work.
Hi Ken ,When I was checking the chain case oil on the classic that I just bought the dipstick was really dry and black. The sled only has 85 miles on it. That's authentic as far as I can tell. I wonder if the oil slowly seeped out while sitting for almost 18 years ? There was some metal filings on the magnet on the dipstick to . Any idea why the oil level would be so low and black ? Mark
Boy, I don't know for sure, maybe the sled has more miles than it reads. I know mine showed black, and of course I changed all that when I installed the reverse gear. I use Amsoil chaincase lube and I still have a small leak that needs addressed, but I would change it out and add fresh oil and just keep an eye on it. If it leaks you'll see a puddle under your sled. Sounds like a brand new sled if the miles are correct.
Yes it's new, the guy bought it , used it two times for towing a sleigh for ice fishing then he died.Sat for 18 years on the trailer in a garage. I checked it all over very carefully and I can't see any evidence of tampering with the odometer. The track is brand new and there is absolutely no wear on the sliders,seat,hand grips,carbides etc. My check list was two pages long ! There was no signs of oil leaking anywhere. The bearing on the drive axle,chain case looks brand new with no oil on it.I'm a little concerned . I'm supposed to go tomorrow and pick it up.
Wow, that sounds like quite a find Mark. I don't think I would be afraid of too much, the only area that might be concerning is the cylinders. The pistons probably took a set on the cylinders, a compression test would be something to think about, but really it sounds like a great deal. I think I'd lube up the cylinders with some two-cycle oil or fogging oil, and let her idle for a while, let it kinda' break in if you know what I mean. As far as no oil on the bearing, that is probably from setting, it just drained off. Maybe give it a squirt or two of some oil before engaging the drive system. Also it would be good to inspect the clutches. I'm sure you're going to need to clean the carbs up too. Replacing fuel and oil lines might be in order also.
Thanks Ken, He said he took the carbs off and had them cleaned at a small engine shop. It doesn't idle that good and has a bit of a bog . I'm sure the jets are not set properly. I'll fix that. They tell me the engine was fogged and they are running fresh gas with 50:1 mix cause it still hasn't even finished it's break in period.I did a compression test and it was 115 and 120 the engine was just warm cause it ran for a few minutes. I don't think the rings are seated properly yet. I might pull the head off just to check the cylinders ? The owners son has been tinkering with it. I wish he had just left it alone now I don't know what he has done right or wrong. Thanks for your advice.
Well that's good to hear about how it was put away. Yea you might want to take a look at the carbs and give them a once over. Compression is good. I'm with you with having someone else doing some tinkering, unless they're qualified or know their stuff, but just go over it and give her a thorough check up and she'll be good to go. This is starting to be a good time of the year to sell sleds, people are thinking winter and want to get a sled before the snow flies. The profit on the Indy Lite will help pay for the new one too!
It came with the sled. It originally had a reverse in it from the factory, but the guy I bought it off of decided to replace it with a straight forward drive. But he saved all the original parts and I just had to figure out how it went together. I would think it would be the same as long as it was around a "96.
@@tylermarques8862 No, there's a whole lot more than just reverse gears. See if you can find a parts schematic on a reverse chaincase for your sled on line. Get the parts numbers and go shopping. It can get quite pricey.
Great! Very helpful.thank you very much! I have a question: After changing the oil, there is oil leakage on the chaincase at the low gear shaft, what should I do?
snowking55 - is there you can think of when putting the chain case cover and lever mechanism back on that could be messed up where after everything is installed that the reverse lever does not appear to move the gear out? I put the gears together correctly as far as I can tell, and your video helped confirm that I did so as well. However, when I install the case cover (washer on the reverse gear is in place) I don't appear to get any movement at all in the lever mechanism that is designed to pull out the reverse gear. I actually tried to loosen up the bolt that is holding that spring in that is in your last shown install step thinking that maybe this spring mechanism was not designed to be tightened all the way to the drive shaft mechanism, and the spring was just too strong when compressed that much to be pulled out by the reverse lever but did not work either. Looking at your video it appears you also agree that the bolt should tightened all the way down to the shaft. I also made sure that the reverse arm goes into the slots of the larger reverse as you also described in your video. I have uninstalled and in-reinstalled this thing about 8 times now and nothing seems to matter. I can move the reverse lever in and out but there seems to be enough play where it does not really seem to be moving the gear on the reverse mechanism to any significant degree to engage reverese. This is on a 2001 Indy which looked identical to what yours is BTW.
Boy I don't know for sure what your problem may be, but I know with mine the guy that had it before me had taken out the reverse setup and in order for the shifting mechanism to stay free from the gears had zip tied it in place. But what really confused me was he had taken the shifter arm apart and re-positioned it in the shifter fork. So what I'm trying to say is look at the position of your arm in comparison to the fork, are they at a right angle to each other? Take a look at some other videos to see if your fork is in the right position. Here is one that shows the fork and shifter lever: ruclips.net/video/R3pxkUmKZlA/видео.html. Hope this helps, it's hard to diagnose without being there.
Yes you can, but you have to purchase the large gear that drives your track and a new chain. Then you have to tie up your shift mechanism in the chaincase to get it out of the way. This is what was done to mine when I bought it, but fortunately the guy included all the old reverse parts and I converted it back. There might be another way, but I'm not familiar with any other conversion.
My reverse just grinds like not engaged took it all apart I can see about of wear on edges of bottom reverse gear but I wouldn't say it's enough to not engage I tighten the cable to the max and the fork I hear it touch the outer wall but still not enough to engage what can I do to fix this the fork has a bit of wear at those little pins that grabs the gear would not cause the problem
You might try re-clocking your shifting fork. When you remove your chaincase cover the shifting fork is mounted to it, you can pull that fork off and turn it a notch on its mounting shaft and give that a try. Don't know for sure unless I see it, sorry.
Well I can't remember, but if I would have to guess I didn't. I don't ride tons of miles, so since I made this video 4 years ago, I'd say I've put on 5 to 6 hundred miles and that bolt has never given me a problem. Not saying it won't the next ride, so I guess that's something to check if that bolt has worked itself loose.
You talked about proper chain tension but never showed how to set that up. It's the only thing I have left to do before putting on the outer case.????????
It's pretty easy, the chain tensioner is the arm with the roller on it and there is a bolt the threads into the side of the chaincase that puts tension on the arm. You just tighten it until there is very little slack in the chain and your done. Tighten the locking nut on the bolt and check it again after some miles, because the new chain will stretch, and adjust by tightening the bolt again.
You will find that there will be "tight spots" and "loose spots" when tightening the chain. Make sure that you bring the chain to one of the tight spots before setting the tension. If you tighten it down to tension on a "loose spot" the chain will be much too tight in other spots. Even though the chain was made in a factory by machine it can still only get so perfect. The chain alone has over 230 pieces!
Wow thanks, you made it look so easy! Your sled is very clean by the way. Where can you get the exploded view diagram?? You never get any documentation from eBay specials. ;p
I believe I found the exploded diagrams by searching Google. You have to do a bit of searching to find those schematics, but it's been too long ago to remember the web sites I found them on.
@@snowking55 It's all good, took a few screenshots of what you had, so if nothing, this is something. Thanks man, I have 3 reverse kits to install, so this should come in handy.
No I haven't, but there should be an adjuster somewhere on the cable or chain case that would allow you to adjust it. Can't remember doing that, but I'm sure I did.
@@snowking55 Wow that was fast,,,,,Thankyou. No it is not on your video and I can not for the life of me find anything on it. Mine is grinding bad and will not go into reverse. Just sits there and grinds. You linkage look just like mine. The spring in the lower gear might be weak also as I have no problem putting it back on. Any help would be GR88888888888888
@@jamesmana5247 I'll take a look tomorrow and see if mine has any adjustment, and I'll look in the manual for something. You might Google it, never know.
@@jamesmana5247 Hi James, I looked in the manual and it shows where the cable fastens to the lever on the chain case, an adjustment of the cable at that point. Google a manual of your sled and you will see in the maintenance section how to adjust your reverse cable. If you want send me your email address and I'll send you a copy of the page I'm talking about. Hope this helps.
What causes the actual reverse, is the fact that the outside pinion gear is turning the outside (reverse) gear, making the sled go in reverse because gear-on-gear creates a reverse effect, whereas gears driven by a chain or belt, retain the same direction of the source. When the reverse gear is on the outside position (reverse engaged) the spline collar stays with the reverse gear, so the main gear is still turning but not connected to the drive, it's the reverse gear doing the work at this point. Check at around 12:10 - 12:15, you can clearly see the spline shaft coming out, "sticking" with the reverse gear, basically no longer has an effect on the main gear. It's a rather clever invention come to think of it.
That's my story and I am sticking to it.
I just realized all of this watching your video, never knew how it worked beforehand; so thank you!!
Great breakdown. Now I get it!
✌️🍩
Reverse slips /whines loudly. Taking mine apart now, this is exactly the same as my 570 deluxe ski doo . Changed the chain oil once before so I’ve been in there before . Can’t wait to see what I’ll find . Very confident however on having watched your tutorial on the subject. Thank you, your vid will remain in infamy.
Thanks Dave, glad I could help. Hope nothing major is wrong, check your adjustment on the cable, sometimes if it not engaging all the way it will make all kinds of racket.
Good explanation thanks for taking your time to make this video
Also loctite that bottom bolt or it will back out and wear through your chaincace cover.
Replacing all drive and skid bearings in the next few weeks on a new to me 1995 XLT Touring with reverse that I just bought. This was very helpful! I've had a regular non-reverse chaincase apart before but this is my first sled with rev.
It can be a bit daunting but I had the schematic which helped tremendously and I talked with a mechanic who helped me. I'm glad it helped you, thanks for watching.
I just did one of these reverse chain cases blind, pretty straight forward if you take your time. But now I'm watching some videos. I just pushed that spring in by hand using a deep well socket with a bolt inside of the socket to start the bolt in there. Problem I'm having now is fork location and adjustment, and I think I'm missing a clip that holds the rod onto the fork. Buddy said reverse never worked since he got it and he fried the chain.
Thanks for the video very help full, i had my hands full trying to figure it out by myself. Cheers
Glad I could help.
the trick i used to get the bottom sprocket bolt started. i used a piece of wood 1''x1'' and about 3 1/2" long and wedged it between snowmobiles belly pan wall and that kept the spring compressed enough to get the bolt started.
Sounds like a way to get it done, for sure. It can be a pain to do, I'm glad I've only had to do it once. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for the time to go through this, I need to do this exact task.
Glad I could help. Thanks for taking a look.
Hi
I just wanted to thank you for putting together a great video. It was super helpful on my project.
Thanks I'm glad I could help.
thank you very much for the video, this will help me out a lot, I just picked up one of these sleds.
I bought a new chain as mine was getting pretty stiff now reverses about 2 feet them pops out of reverse and grinds again
Great video real great in detail to help us DIYers
Glad I could help. When I made the video there was none out there at the time to explain the procedure, so I thought let's make one to help out anybody else going through this install. Hopefully you'll be successful.
Thank you so much for this video. I'm just about to pop open a chaincase of a 2003 Polaris sport Touring and it's always nice to see beforehand a hint of what you could expect to find. =)
I have almost the same sled without reverse,but am planning on getting a reverse setup for it. This info. will help with my install.Thank's
You'll have to have a reverse lever to do the job, either the flipper lever I have or an add on of some sort. The reverse kits are hard to find on the older sleds, but ebay can be a good source to find one. Thanks for watching.
Putting on that lower bolt reminds me of when I had to install the reverse gear of my brothers 1998 Polaris XC 700 in the wedge chassis and there is no room to get your hands in between the belly pan the trailing arm and the reverse gear there's like a half an inch of room. I think my brother and I spent two hours trying to get that bolt in
Sorry for the delay on the reply. That bottom bolt that holds the reverse gear on is a bear to install. But I found on my second attempt that you didn't have to compress the spring to get it started, the bolt was long enough to get started without compressing the spring. Thanks for taking a look Streeter.
@@snowking55 do you know if thats a metric bolt? The tip of mine seems stripped so i was wondering if thats why im having so much trouble starting it.
@@deemoney79 Boy I do not know. I would guess it probably is, can you run a die over it to clean up the threads? It's a difficult bolt to install, hard to reach and see.
@@deemoney79 It's just a standard thread bolt, but I imagine you already figure this out by now :)
Outstanding video, I learned something new today. thank you..
Thanks, glad I could help
You make it look easy, nice job!
Thanks Rusty, if it wasn't for the exploded view and some instruction from the local dealer I'd be lost. Not really a hard job, you just have to know what gear goes where. Thanks for watching.
Great video. Very easy to understand.
Thanks Brian, I'm glad I was able to help.
Seen this video before.
Had to come back for that bottem freakin bolt....mean just rage!!!
But thank you soo much for that last bit.
I have a sled 1997 Indy 500 efi without reverse is it possible to interchange with a reverse gear box?
You can, but you have to have all the components to make it work. Like gears, chain, and a flip lever or mechanism to shift it from forward to reverse. But it can be done.
i know this video old but you have all those diagrams still? i got this reverse kit in a bag trying to figure out some of the washers and spacers
I have one old faded schematic of the chain case. I scanned it to my computer and I can send it to you, just give me an email address.
I know this video is old, but do you happen to know the specifications of the chain itself? My chain broke and it does not match the OEM size for the chain that was on the sled. My chain was 66 links long and 13wide. The OEM size says it should be 64 links long and 13 wide. Not sure which to get since the one I had on it was 66long.
I looked back at my file on this sled and the chain was a 66p, 13w silent chain. Part number 3224051. Hope this helps.
Excellent video! Thank you!
Thank you sir, hope it helped!
That's great now you can back up, I'm sure it will help
Yea especially when you get older like me, reverse and electric start are nice! Thanks for watching Dennis.
This job is a pain in the ass if your sled has CRC front suspension. Note the trailing arms on this sled are way out from the centerline of the chassis. Not so on CRC sleds. The trailing arms are mounted much closer and make it very tight between the case and nosepan. Worse yet is doing chaincase work on sleds with 4 driver driveshafts.
Also, non-factory equipped with reverse sleds equipped with the HYVO chain won’t have washers behind the sprockets.
If the bearings have never been replaced, always say f-it and replace the bearings seals. And use sealed bearings because on open bearings, there is only a seal stopping the oil from running out if the shit hits the fan on a trail.
Lastly, there are seal sleeves and o-rings on the jack shaft and driveshaft. Always check the sleeves and replace the o-rings with the new o-rings facing out. The sleeves have a knife edge that faces inwards. If the sleeves are hosed, your new chaincase bearing oil sleeves ain’t going to last very long.
Where can I locate a Reverse Kit for my 1995 Polaris 440 Indy Sport
Haven't a clue. Might try ebay or Facebook?
Do the washers you mention in the very beginning on the shafts a part of the original set up or do they come with the reverse kit? I have a kit I want to put on, haven’t gotten into it yet, wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing parts before I got started.
The washers were there, this sled originally came from the factory with reverse and the guy I bought off of took the reverse gears out, for some reason, and made it just a forward drive. So the washers were still there from the original reverse setup. I don't know if a sled that did not come with reverse has those washers or not, but they are needed for the reverse gear setup to work. Hope this helps.
i filled gear oil on the chain case. would that be too thick? the 2 bolts on the chaincase cover, are they for filling and the getting correct level? the upper has a square in it, the lower is a 15 mm
Do not use gear oil it's way too thick for cold weather running, you can find chaincase oil at your Polaris dealer or I use Amsoil chaincase oil and pour your oil in the dipstick hole and it doesn't take much, but just add a little and keep checking it with your dipstick until you show full on your dipstick. Hope this helps.
allways gets a kind of "slam" once the gears engage when driving my polaris. any idea what it can be? opened the gearbox and all seems fine.
Sounds like you may need to adjust the chain in the chain case. Mine will make a clunk when shifting from forward to reverse and back again. Just don't give it a lot of gas when making the change.
@@snowking55 jess. my guess would be a terrible chain. Men it feels like the "slam" is comming at the left foot. where the secondary is. so i dont know... im allways carefull on the gas until it "Hooks". but even then the slam feels right into my soul. it sounds terrible.
I can't figure out why someone would remove reverse ? Other than for racing to reduce weight ? What type of oil did you use for the chain case ? My vector calls for "GL3 75-80w " I can't find that anywhere ! I use synthetic gear oil in the other sleds. Mark
The guy I bought it off of got took. He ran the chaincase dry and it tied up the chain, he took it to a local fix-it guy and the guy told him the gears were shot so he replaced everything with the cheaper forward gear setup but kept all the reverse gears and hardware. There was nothing wrong with the gears it just needed a new chain. So I won on that deal. I use Amsoil synthetic snowmobile gear oil.
Thanks. Synthetic oil is the way to go. -6 c or 21F here today ! Snow is on it's way.
Does timing really matter on a sled like this? If the chain and gears are taken off do they have to go back on exactly the same spot
There is no timing involved. The gears/sprockets have to be in the correct position to work, but there is no timing.
Somewhat related? Do you know if a 96 Indy 600 chaincase with reverse will fit my 98 Indy 600 with reverse?
Hi Dave, I do not know for sure, I'd do some research on line. Get a parts schematic for your sled and the 96 Classic and compare. If they look a like they should fit, but check with a dealer they may know without having to look.
Great video! Do you have any suggestions for the tension of the chain ? How to get it at the proper tightness? Thanks !
There is a chain adjuster on the front side of the chain case that has a roller that rides against the chain with a bolt that adjusts the tension by turning it in or out. I usually like my chain to have just a little slack, just don't tighten the adjuster to the point the chain is tight with no slack. Hope this helps.
What orientation does the reverse fork on the cover get installed
Boy I really don't remember if there is an orientation or not. Do a review of the video and stop it where you see the fork and maybe that will answer your question, sorry, it's been 6 years and I don't remember like I used to.
Hi Ken I'm back ! I took the chain case cover off the touring and all was good in there. Very clean. Now I put it all back together and I can't find any info for the torque spec on the large bolt the goes into the pinion shaft. You were talking about it in your video but didn't show the final assembly. Is there a spec for that bolt ? I tightened it to 25 ft/lb for now. But I'm worried about it.I have the same drawing you have . The one on the left of your bench. It just says O-ring and doesn't show the bolt. can you help me ?Mark
Hi Mark, sorry for the slow response, I've been gone a week fishing in Michigan. As far as torque specs go, I had none to work with so I just put it back together tight. You might find something online. I looked at the online manual I downloaded and found a few specs. Top bolt for Jackshaft - 50 ft.lbs castle nut & 65 ft. lbs. for Flex Loc nut. Bot. chaincase sprocket bolt - 19 ft.lbs. There was no spec I could find for the pinion gears. Hope this helps. Ken
Hi Ken, Hope you did well on your fishing trip. I was getting worried about you ! I found a spec online for the pinion gear bolt it's 26 ft lb so I was close when I guessed at 25 . Thanks so much for your help we have a good community going here .Mark
Just picked up a reverse assembly for my ‘99 xc500sp, studying your video very carefully, thanks! Would you recommend putting rtv sealant on the cases?
Thanks for watching. You can put on a sealant, I didn't do it on this job, but I have in the past. If your seal is new it should seal without any added sealant.
Just got my new fork dowels delivered, pressed them and am ready to finish the install. Problem now is squeezing the case in past the molded plastic, no clearance. May have to heat it with a hair dryer to make it pliable. All part of the mod I guess, all good.
@@CBCycles I need to do the same for my 1999 xc700. What year and model sled did your reverse kit come from?
@@chrisvankauwenberg4009 I believe it came off a 2000 xc600 Deluxe
Thanks for sharing.
Great video. I’m thinking of buying a 1996 Polaris Indy Ultra 680, can I add reverse to this machine the same way?
I would imagine you could if the chaincase appears the same as mine. The problem may be finding a reverse gear kit. You also need the flipper lever on your handlebar to shift it from forward to reverse. Have fun!
Have a 600 triple its the same as the video. Gonna go assume and say yess it is.
Polaris is very 1 tracked mind if it aint broke dont fix it.
great video, thanks. im looking for a reverse kit for my 97 indy lite. Does anyone know what other years and models would fit? thanks for the help
Boy I don't know if they made a reverse kit for the Indy Lite. I owned one once, but I can't remember if it had a chaincase or it was direct drive. You'll have to do some research to see if something will work.
@@snowking55 thanks for the reply. Mine has a chain case and I have seen the kits, but I'm hoping some other models may fit as well. Thanks
Hi Ken ,When I was checking the chain case oil on the classic that I just bought the dipstick was really dry and black. The sled only has 85 miles on it. That's authentic as far as I can tell. I wonder if the oil slowly seeped out while sitting for almost 18 years ? There was some metal filings on the magnet on the dipstick to . Any idea why the oil level would be so low and black ? Mark
Boy, I don't know for sure, maybe the sled has more miles than it reads. I know mine showed black, and of course I changed all that when I installed the reverse gear. I use Amsoil chaincase lube and I still have a small leak that needs addressed, but I would change it out and add fresh oil and just keep an eye on it. If it leaks you'll see a puddle under your sled. Sounds like a brand new sled if the miles are correct.
Yes it's new, the guy bought it , used it two times for towing a sleigh for ice fishing then he died.Sat for 18 years on the trailer in a garage.
I checked it all over very carefully and I can't see any evidence of tampering with the odometer. The track is brand new and there is absolutely no wear on the sliders,seat,hand grips,carbides etc. My check list was two pages long ! There was no signs of oil leaking anywhere. The bearing on the drive axle,chain case looks brand new with no oil on it.I'm a little concerned . I'm supposed to go tomorrow and pick it up.
Wow, that sounds like quite a find Mark. I don't think I would be afraid of too much, the only area that might be concerning is the cylinders. The pistons probably took a set on the cylinders, a compression test would be something to think about, but really it sounds like a great deal. I think I'd lube up the cylinders with some two-cycle oil or fogging oil, and let her idle for a while, let it kinda' break in if you know what I mean. As far as no oil on the bearing, that is probably from setting, it just drained off. Maybe give it a squirt or two of some oil before engaging the drive system. Also it would be good to inspect the clutches. I'm sure you're going to need to clean the carbs up too. Replacing fuel and oil lines might be in order also.
Thanks Ken, He said he took the carbs off and had them cleaned at a small engine shop. It doesn't idle that good and has a bit of a bog . I'm sure the jets are not set properly. I'll fix that. They tell me the engine was fogged and they are running fresh gas with 50:1 mix cause it still hasn't even finished it's break in period.I did a compression test and it was 115 and 120 the engine was just warm cause it ran for a few minutes. I don't think the rings are seated properly yet. I might pull the head off just to check the cylinders ? The owners son has been tinkering with it. I wish he had just left it alone now I don't know what he has done right or wrong. Thanks for your advice.
Well that's good to hear about how it was put away. Yea you might want to take a look at the carbs and give them a once over. Compression is good. I'm with you with having someone else doing some tinkering, unless they're qualified or know their stuff, but just go over it and give her a thorough check up and she'll be good to go. This is starting to be a good time of the year to sell sleds, people are thinking winter and want to get a sled before the snow flies. The profit on the Indy Lite will help pay for the new one too!
where did you get the kit from and is it the same thing for a 600 xlt triple
It came with the sled. It originally had a reverse in it from the factory, but the guy I bought it off of decided to replace it with a straight forward drive. But he saved all the original parts and I just had to figure out how it went together. I would think it would be the same as long as it was around a "96.
@@snowking55 ok so you dont where he got the kit or do i just need to get the reverse gears because i have a sled with just a staight drive chaincase
@@tylermarques8862 No, there's a whole lot more than just reverse gears. See if you can find a parts schematic on a reverse chaincase for your sled on line. Get the parts numbers and go shopping. It can get quite pricey.
Great! Very helpful.thank you very much!
I have a question: After changing the oil, there is oil leakage on the chaincase at the low gear shaft, what should I do?
Sounds like your oil seal on the chain case needs replaced. But that is a job.
snowking55 - is there you can think of when putting the chain case cover and lever mechanism back on that could be messed up where after everything is installed that the reverse lever does not appear to move the gear out? I put the gears together correctly as far as I can tell, and your video helped confirm that I did so as well. However, when I install the case cover (washer on the reverse gear is in place) I don't appear to get any movement at all in the lever mechanism that is designed to pull out the reverse gear. I actually tried to loosen up the bolt that is holding that spring in that is in your last shown install step thinking that maybe this spring mechanism was not designed to be tightened all the way to the drive shaft mechanism, and the spring was just too strong when compressed that much to be pulled out by the reverse lever but did not work either. Looking at your video it appears you also agree that the bolt should tightened all the way down to the shaft. I also made sure that the reverse arm goes into the slots of the larger reverse as you also described in your video. I have uninstalled and in-reinstalled this thing about 8 times now and nothing seems to matter. I can move the reverse lever in and out but there seems to be enough play where it does not really seem to be moving the gear on the reverse mechanism to any significant degree to engage reverese. This is on a 2001 Indy which looked identical to what yours is BTW.
Boy I don't know for sure what your problem may be, but I know with mine the guy that had it before me had taken out the reverse setup and in order for the shifting mechanism to stay free from the gears had zip tied it in place. But what really confused me was he had taken the shifter arm apart and re-positioned it in the shifter fork. So what I'm trying to say is look at the position of your arm in comparison to the fork, are they at a right angle to each other? Take a look at some other videos to see if your fork is in the right position. Here is one that shows the fork and shifter lever: ruclips.net/video/R3pxkUmKZlA/видео.html. Hope this helps, it's hard to diagnose without being there.
Im having the same issue right now. Everything is assembled correctly but it wont go into reverse. What was the solution for you, shooter?
Shooter 71 if you can remember
@@ronhessel3813 maybe the chain is too tight. go ahead a few inches, let it idle down and try it.
Mine full of metal
Can you remove the reverse gear on my 500 classic and still run it
Yes you can, but you have to purchase the large gear that drives your track and a new chain. Then you have to tie up your shift mechanism in the chaincase to get it out of the way. This is what was done to mine when I bought it, but fortunately the guy included all the old reverse parts and I converted it back. There might be another way, but I'm not familiar with any other conversion.
How many teeth is the reverse gear 39 or 35
My reverse just grinds like not engaged took it all apart I can see about of wear on edges of bottom reverse gear but I wouldn't say it's enough to not engage I tighten the cable to the max and the fork I hear it touch the outer wall but still not enough to engage what can I do to fix this the fork has a bit of wear at those little pins that grabs the gear would not cause the problem
You might try re-clocking your shifting fork. When you remove your chaincase cover the shifting fork is mounted to it, you can pull that fork off and turn it a notch on its mounting shaft and give that a try. Don't know for sure unless I see it, sorry.
try tightening your chain work for me
Thank you very helpful.
Glad I could be of assistance, and thanks for watching.
I hope you loctited the threadsthat bottom bolt. Or you wont have a case left. 👍🏻
Threads on that* bottom bolt
Well I can't remember, but if I would have to guess I didn't. I don't ride tons of miles, so since I made this video 4 years ago, I'd say I've put on 5 to 6 hundred miles and that bolt has never given me a problem. Not saying it won't the next ride, so I guess that's something to check if that bolt has worked itself loose.
You talked about proper chain tension but never showed how to set that up. It's the only thing I have left to do before putting on the outer case.????????
It's pretty easy, the chain tensioner is the arm with the roller on it and there is a bolt the threads into the side of the chaincase that puts tension on the arm. You just tighten it until there is very little slack in the chain and your done. Tighten the locking nut on the bolt and check it again after some miles, because the new chain will stretch, and adjust by tightening the bolt again.
You will find that there will be "tight spots" and "loose spots" when tightening the chain. Make sure that you bring the chain to one of the tight spots before setting the tension. If you tighten it down to tension on a "loose spot" the chain will be much too tight in other spots. Even though the chain was made in a factory by machine it can still only get so perfect. The chain alone has over 230 pieces!
Wow thanks, you made it look so easy!
Your sled is very clean by the way.
Where can you get the exploded view diagram??
You never get any documentation from eBay specials. ;p
I believe I found the exploded diagrams by searching Google. You have to do a bit of searching to find those schematics, but it's been too long ago to remember the web sites I found them on.
@@snowking55 It's all good, took a few screenshots of what you had, so if nothing, this is something. Thanks man, I have 3 reverse kits to install, so this should come in handy.
@@TheManKnownAsJR Yeah that'll work. Hope you have good success, after 3 kits you should be able to do it in your sleep. Glad I could help.
Good job
Thanks for watching. Snows just around the corner.
Put both gears on at same time slide on .
Have you done a video on how to adjust the reverse cable? Grrrrrr8 video bty
No I haven't, but there should be an adjuster somewhere on the cable or chain case that would allow you to adjust it. Can't remember doing that, but I'm sure I did.
@@snowking55 Wow that was fast,,,,,Thankyou. No it is not on your video and I can not for the life of me find anything on it. Mine is grinding bad and will not go into reverse. Just sits there and grinds. You linkage look just like mine. The spring in the lower gear might be weak also as I have no problem putting it back on. Any help would be GR88888888888888
@@jamesmana5247 I'll take a look tomorrow and see if mine has any adjustment, and I'll look in the manual for something. You might Google it, never know.
@@snowking55 Thanks a million
@@jamesmana5247 Hi James, I looked in the manual and it shows where the cable fastens to the lever on the chain case, an adjustment of the cable at that point. Google a manual of your sled and you will see in the maintenance section how to adjust your reverse cable. If you want send me your email address and I'll send you a copy of the page I'm talking about. Hope this helps.
on mine i cant get that small idler gear to fit in with the big reverse gear, they wont fit each other