Excellent video. Hope you don't mind my comments but here is a bit more info. Amazon $9 QWORK Aluminum T Track, 2 Pack 12 Inch (Mar 2024) Way cheaper than the Yak Attack Equalizing washers are a great idea. I used one $8 rubber automotive muffler hanger & used the ends with the holes. Corrects angle issue and absorbs vibration from outboard. $40 for 2x2 aluminum tube 4' length 1/8 wall All said it can be done for $60 Not hijacking your vid sir but just letting people know. To everyone else if you want it perfect build exactly as the vid recommends. It's pretty damn good.
Great video. Due to a hull replacement I’ve had to do this twice! The spherical washer is a great idea I wish I knew about. The first install the angle was so off I had to make aluminum shims to square it up. The second time knowing the issue I was able to get it better aligned. Another thing I learned is that the SS screws seized to the aluminum backer due to corrosion. I had to drill them out. Second time around I applied a dielectric grease to prevent them from corroding.
I'm glad (and sad) to hear about the hull replacement! I was concerned about the added stress to the hull when the cross-bar is tightened down and your comment makes me feel like maybe the spherical washers were worth it after all. And, yes, the corrosion using dissimilar metals was a concern of mine, too. Good idea on the grease.
Great video Tom, I’ll be following it to the letter when I do this install. I’m trying to find a way to be able to still open the rear hatch, I have an esky that fits in there and also I like to carry the trax2 with inflatable wheels, all in this rear area. But it’s very busy/tight for space when also adding the motor Mount, motor, and fuel too. I may need to find another place to store the trax2 scupper cart.
Thanks for the kind words. Also note the suggestion below to use dielectric grease on any stainless bolts that will be in contact with the aluminum. I think that's a great addition. And, yes, space becomes limited on these boats but I supposed you can't have everything! Best of luck on your install.
The square tubing attaches to the YakAttack track using the track nuts (see materials list @ 5:46.) If you look @ 4:13 you will see an end-view of what that looks like. The red nail polish is there to give me a visual clue if anything has moved (it never has.) In order to tighten the bolts for the track nuts, you'll need to drill access holes through the square tubing, as shown at 3:42. Good luck!
Hey mate, thanks for the great vid, I’m considering doing this with my Ti in order to come in over a bar more safely when there’s a bit of surf, do you know what the top speed is when you open it up?
It's been awhile since I measured how fast I was going at WOT. I think it was probably around 6 kts, which would make sense considering the max hull speed of this boat is probably around the same.
All good and well done BUT... the Hobbie Tandem Island is completely out of balance. Hobbie simply "stretched" an Adventure Island for fitting the second seat, NOT realising that the balance is offset 😳 to the sterne. Any additional weight will push the sterne under water including the holes for the steering cables, as well as the hatch. The additional water stream will add additional pressure and makes sure that even more water will creap into the hull. Not to mention the weight shift with the installed engine. My most wasted money ever.
That's too bad you've had that experience. I've seen no imbalance, water coming in the cable channels or water coming in the hatch. I mostly don't use the motor and it sits quietly in case I need it. Never had a problem.
I completely disagree with this comment. I’m going on five years with a similar set up on my T.I. It is the best mod you could ever do to the boat. On my previous solo Adventure Island, it was easy to sink the stern until the rudder lines were submerged, but it is absolutely a non issue on the T.I.
I have the problem with the stern sinking as well on a T.I. I’m 200 lbs. I’ve seen some people use a second bar over the top and I wonder if this may change the wake aspects a bit to reduce that. Or somehow tweak a trim angle somehow to prevent this?
Excellent video. Hope you don't mind my comments but here is a bit more info.
Amazon $9 QWORK Aluminum T Track, 2 Pack 12 Inch (Mar 2024) Way cheaper than the Yak Attack
Equalizing washers are a great idea. I used one $8 rubber automotive muffler hanger & used the ends with the holes. Corrects angle issue and absorbs vibration from outboard.
$40 for 2x2 aluminum tube 4' length 1/8 wall
All said it can be done for $60
Not hijacking your vid sir but just letting people know.
To everyone else if you want it perfect build exactly as the vid recommends. It's pretty damn good.
Great! All wonderful suggestions. I think it's like anything we build by hand, we know we could improve the design the next time. You did. Well done.
Well done. Thanks,
Well done - looks great. My mount continues to provide excellent service in tough salt water conditions.
Great video. Due to a hull replacement I’ve had to do this twice! The spherical washer is a great idea I wish I knew about. The first install the angle was so off I had to make aluminum shims to square it up. The second time knowing the issue I was able to get it better aligned. Another thing I learned is that the SS screws seized to the aluminum backer due to corrosion. I had to drill them out. Second time around I applied a dielectric grease to prevent them from corroding.
I'm glad (and sad) to hear about the hull replacement! I was concerned about the added stress to the hull when the cross-bar is tightened down and your comment makes me feel like maybe the spherical washers were worth it after all. And, yes, the corrosion using dissimilar metals was a concern of mine, too. Good idea on the grease.
Great video Tom, I’ll be following it to the letter when I do this install. I’m trying to find a way to be able to still open the rear hatch, I have an esky that fits in there and also I like to carry the trax2 with inflatable wheels, all in this rear area. But it’s very busy/tight for space when also adding the motor Mount, motor, and fuel too. I may need to find another place to store the trax2 scupper cart.
Thanks for the kind words. Also note the suggestion below to use dielectric grease on any stainless bolts that will be in contact with the aluminum. I think that's a great addition. And, yes, space becomes limited on these boats but I supposed you can't have everything! Best of luck on your install.
By the way, the total length of the square tube of 30.5” is incorrect. I bought a 36” length and even that isn’t long enough 😢
You are correct. The total length posted in the movie should have been 52.5". Sorry about that.
Thank you for sharing.
Not sure how you installed the square tubing over the mounting track. Did you slide them on and somehow lock in place?
The square tubing attaches to the YakAttack track using the track nuts (see materials list @ 5:46.) If you look @ 4:13 you will see an end-view of what that looks like. The red nail polish is there to give me a visual clue if anything has moved (it never has.) In order to tighten the bolts for the track nuts, you'll need to drill access holes through the square tubing, as shown at 3:42. Good luck!
Hey mate, thanks for the great vid, I’m considering doing this with my Ti in order to come in over a bar more safely when there’s a bit of surf, do you know what the top speed is when you open it up?
It's been awhile since I measured how fast I was going at WOT. I think it was probably around 6 kts, which would make sense considering the max hull speed of this boat is probably around the same.
👍🍺
All good and well done BUT...
the Hobbie Tandem Island is completely out of balance. Hobbie simply "stretched" an Adventure Island for fitting the second seat, NOT realising that the balance is offset 😳 to the sterne.
Any additional weight will push the sterne under water including the holes for the steering cables, as well as the hatch.
The additional water stream will add additional pressure and makes sure that even more water will creap into the hull.
Not to mention the weight shift with the installed engine.
My most wasted money ever.
That's too bad you've had that experience. I've seen no imbalance, water coming in the cable channels or water coming in the hatch. I mostly don't use the motor and it sits quietly in case I need it. Never had a problem.
@Tom Lewis Thanks, mate.
Just go out on the ocean for 3 hours, and you'll see that you need a bilgepum.
I completely disagree with this comment. I’m going on five years with a similar set up on my T.I. It is the best mod you could ever do to the boat. On my previous solo Adventure Island, it was easy to sink the stern until the rudder lines were submerged, but it is absolutely a non issue on the T.I.
I have the problem with the stern sinking as well on a T.I. I’m 200 lbs. I’ve seen some people use a second bar over the top and I wonder if this may change the wake aspects a bit to reduce that. Or somehow tweak a trim angle somehow to prevent this?
Adjust the tilt angle of the engine. This will lift the stern when power is applied.