Removing Oil Canning in Sheet Metal - Works Every Time!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- Looking for and easy and effective method for removing oil canning in sheet metal or auto body panels? This process works every time, is very simple, and will not let you down.
/ @lakesideautobody
Every issue that I’ve come across since I started learning to do body work you have a video for it awesome. What I like is you get right to the point. None of that blah blah blah crap that most videos have. Great job. Thanks
Thanks Hector that makes my day. Glad you like the videos. You're welcome and I'll try to keep uploading good stuff - have a good week :)
The hood on my 1971 C10 is about to get some much needed attention!
Torch and a very wet rag works just as well without putting a hole in it. It will tighten a metal right up.
You still have high spots. Just tight high spots.
Your videos have really helped me a great deal. Thank you for taking the time to make them.
You're welcome 😊
Like everyone else has said, the dimple in the middle is not necessary, you can even see in your video that as you first start to cool it the steel shrinks quite a bit. If you didn't/couldn't use the heat, the dimple by itself will tighten up the oilcanning.
If you want to try something really slick, take some stainless sheet metal about body metal thick, cut about a 9-10" disk out of it. Put a bit of a dish in it (you can tap it with a hammer on a surface that gives, I made a form out of wood so I can do it on the press. It doesn't have to be perfect, as you use it it will pull itself even. Put this on a 7" angle grinder (it's just about the perfect speed, a 4" is too fast and not enough torque, you'll overheat it and kill it quickly, 9" is usually too slow) and run it over the area that oilcans/has high spots. It will make an awful screeching, and the high spots will heat blue and then cool it quickly (I usually use a wet rag but compressed air works). by "design" it only heats the stretched out high spots so they are the only parts that shrink. It's just as effective as your method for getting rid of oilcanning, but with some practice and if you're willing to tinker a bit you can actually get sheet metal to pull itself so straight you can avoid using any filler.
@A. Melbs It's called a shrinking disk, and I've done it on quarters before
Thabk you for posting this, I’ve been doing it like this and it’s fool proof it is the best way apart from a shrinking hammer and dolly behind it with heat. The wet rag + heat is a great way to tighten the metal but it does nothing to address the high spots. Read the Martin metal bumping book it uses the dolly method and suggests hitting the crown then working the metal. A long pick/rat tail hammer works better with no dolly because the points are so small.
And if you have to fill anything it’s what, 1/16th inch filler in a couple areas? Pass a shrinking disk it’ll sooth most of it flat by warming the highs from the pick only. In restoration work I pass filler over the entire car to get a show quality finish and I usually hit about 1/8” max because the panels themselves don’t come laser straight. Look at all the natural waves in the g body hoods.
After I hit the metal this way when it’s all right I pass a shrinking disc over the metal to smooth it flat and then key it with 80 grit for epoxy primer. Very minimal need for body filler.
Don’t let the naysayers get to you, this way is legit!
Thanks - you're absolutely right. In a body shop you don't have time to play around if you want to be fast and earn respect. This has always worked great for me - I watched a lot of guys get tripped up by an oil canning panel - to the point they would rather replace it. I hate to say this but one of the best pieces of advice that helped me when I was young was an old guy who told me "hit it low and fill it with dough" :)
Nice, I must try this...yes it's super frustrating trying to get rid of that
Love your videos. I used the this on my hood and it worked great. I bought a 62 C10 for parts. I am restoring my dad's 6. Live in Connecticut and the winters took a lot of the truck. I am starting the bed and one of the previous owners of the 62 haul some heavy material in the bed and the sides are bowed. So the bow goes from the top rail down to the wood bed and front to back. Do you have a suggestion to work the bow out?
I appreciate that Walter - glad you like them. If they are bowed out you could use a come along (heavy duty one) to pull them back together. If they are bowed where the middle is sagging you could try some thing like this - see video at 40:00 - ruclips.net/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/видео.html You can send me pics if you want at schoolvideolibrary@gmail.com - I'd be able to give you better advice maybe :)
It’s funny I’m watching this because the doors on a Chevy Aveo I’m fixing have terrible oil canning effect and I notice your working on (let me guess) a Chevy Aveo it’s like the entire car comes oil can from the factory lol Great video friend 👏👏👏👏👏🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks so much Army Chris. For some reason I wanted an Aveo - I thought of how great it would do on gas, it was cheap as dirt, and it didn't look too bad :)
Thanks so much for this tidbit of information. I have a 1972 F250 that I repaired the left front cab mount tower. Replacing it would require taking off the whole front clip so I opted to repair with 22guage steel. I did have to do alot of welding inside the mount tower because it was difficult to see. Anyhow, despite being 4 or so inches from the angled cab floor, apparently I got it warm enough that there's now an "oil can" effect in the angled part of the floor I didn't notice before. Surprisingly, I thought if I got the floor that hot, it should've melted or burnt the rubber floor mat but didn't. The paint inside even is undamaged. Anyhow, now I know how to fix it but some time in the future. I'll have to repair the paint when I do the procedure beside the fact that getting that old floor mat up may be tricky with its age. Thanks again.
You're welcome. Even warming the area, tapping the high spot lightly can have a positive effect. Cooling it fast with water or cold air can change the properties of the metal too and eliminate the oil canning :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank so much for the advice.
@@stephensaasen8589 👍
I was looking for answers how to fix my cheap quarter panel I put on my 72 dart. The welds look good when I grinded them down. But oil canned. I just need to do this now to get the flex in a few spots to go away. I was almost gonna put rods on the other side. It looks good just oil canning in 2 spots.
Do this - I promise, if you are patient it will work. If you try 1 time and it still does it in another spot do it again there - it will stop eventually :)
Is that a high spot now? Since the other side flexed, could that grown?
It's not a high spot - I get you. It's not high at all - it actually pulls the surrounding metal into that ding you made thus tightening up the area or panel so... no flex or high area :) Good observation Steve :)
This is fantastic! Can't wait to give it a go tomorrow. Quick follow up...what do you do when even 36 grit aluminum oxide grinding won't take off old baked in paint? Just leave it on, right? Fill the biggest dents, then primer, sand, fill everything else, primer, final sand?
I promise, if you hit it with these fiber resin discs on a sander/grinder - it'll remove it - benchmarkabrasives.com/collections/aluminum-oxide-resin-fiber-discs/products/7-x-7-8-aluminum-oxide-resin-fiber-disc-25-pac?variant=31411319308 Here's the sander (buffer) to use with these discs - www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers-buffers/variable-speed-polishers/10-amp-7-in-variable-speed-polishersander-64807.html However.... you can leave the paint - DA sand it, fill your biggest dents, etc. - like you said. Put it this way, I don't think I ever completely stripped a car - always left the paint on. Most body shops/workers leave the paint on.
@@LakesideAutobody Well, my air powered grinder with those discs couldn't do it but I haven't tried the buffer yet. I'm sure it has SOOOOO much more power so I can lean into it. Anyhow, very good to know about not usually stripping cars. You are amazing! Thank you so much for your time!
@@designsinorbit You're welcome. If you stick with it, it gets easier and easier as you learn what works and doesn't work. Lots of failing but that's par for the course 🛠👍✌
@@LakesideAutobody One more for ya- my little screw on bottle type torch really sucks. What are you using?
@@designsinorbit A Bernzomatic TS8000T but I use the regular propane bottles on it - doesn't seem to be hotter or cooler no matter what gas I use :)
That was a awesome job thanks for that video
You're welcome Courtney - thanks for watching 💯
Why the whacking? Is it just to speed up the shrinking of the metal in three dimensions -- the dimple to the interior? Ever watch Keith Fenner (Turn Wright Machine Works RUclips channel) straighten a bent boat prop shaft? It's all just torch and water cooling.
Thanks!
The tapping would be that same as laying a napkin on top of a glass and pushing your finger into the glass - you're pulling the napkin in... With the metal you are "pulling the metal in" or shrinking the area - tightening it up. You're welcome BTW - Have a good week :)
Figured, as stated originally -- shrinking the 2D plane into a 3D space.
It could all be done with just the torch and water eventually. The tap just speeds up the process. Of course, the tap divot will require filling.
Thanks for taking the time to put up the videos and respond!
I'm getting ready to DIY rocker panel replacement and base of the B pillar repairs on a 2004 Cavalier due to rust rot. Needless to say, I've been overdosing on auto body channels.
The car is a daily beater so the repairs will be rather utilitarian and Frankensteinish. Still, the new metal will give the vehicle an additional half-dozen years of life.
@@russellstephan6844 This play may help you out: ruclips.net/p/PLOP9eoG14-I-qu68_805bZaOnmkdlv6Ys
Thank you this worked awesome on my 16 gauge floor pan... I would be able to stand oil canning in a 5 speed car. Best thing is it's going under carpet so I don't care how it looks.
Glad it helped - have a good week :)
Can you fix oil can without a torch with just a shrinking hammer, and dolly?
Yes - and then sometimes just with the torch alone - heat it then hit it with a wet rag. I'm not a big fan of the shrinking hammer and dolly though - it just doesn't have enough effect on the panel or enough shrinking capabilities for my liking :)
@@LakesideAutobody I agree but most shops wont allow the torch because the metal is so thin, plus most techs dont know how to use it. It would be nice to have a video on use the hammer dolly, and maybe the slap tool.
@@MrHotguy034 👍💯
What hammer is that? Can I use a pick hammer instead?
You could use a punch if you want - even a hammer and Phillips screwdriver.
I just tried this on an 84 k5 blazer. I can verify it works very well...dont overheat practice on a scrap panel first
Thank you for verifying it. It can make the difference between a fast body man and a slow and frustrated one for sure.
What’s better to cook it air or water on a rag
Probably water on a rag but I got too lazy at work to go get water so I ended up using air - it seemed to do the job just as well :)
Never seen this method great information you put out some good easy to understand videos thank you sir
You're welcome
I like how you do things this is an awesome RUclips channel you don't hold no punches Awesome RUclips channel I will definitely share with all my friends and family
Thank you so much. I'm glad you like the channel and thanks for sharing the videos. Have a great weekend. Jerry
in my profile pic my nova`s roof has some oil canning going on. Can i fiberglass matt underneath to stiffin up?
I don't think that will cure it - just me though. Try this in a few spots - ruclips.net/video/nUBinQYIMUY/видео.html If you do it enough times in spots that bounce - you'll cure it :)
Amazing. Worked exactly like shown first try. Thanks!
Glad it helped and glad to hear that you used the method. It really is a game changer for me.
What a excellent video my hero
Thanks Luis - have a good week. Hopefully everything is going well with the new boy. Mine didn't like to sleep - still doesn't 😵 He's 22 now 😊
@LakesideAutobody WOW Jerry I hope I don't have to wait that long
Nice training
Thanks :)
Thank you very much!
You're welcome :)
I'm trying to learn
Keep watching and asking ?s 👍😊
For a novice like me, I dont mind the pick hammer dents. It seems like a simpler method and I will skim fill it anyway.
👍💯
This is a bizarre way to remove oil can! You do not need to use your pick hammer, just a wet, cold rag will shrink the metal and keep in flat. Using a pick hammer will require body filler or solder.
I was thinking the same thing I have never seen someone shrink metal like that.
It really eliminates playing around with the panel - most guys in the shop will mess around with it for hours when all you have to do is this - you're going to have to fill it any way so.... Hope that helps - Jerry
Yes no more oil canning but now you have more dents. The proper way is to heat, hammer and dolly real fast. Quince with wet rag and then do some more hammer dolly work. Only a skin coat of filler is needed
@@jss6060 hammer and dolly only works if you can get the dolly in behind it!
Nice job
Thanks RD - have a good week :)
I used to do that but the real reason it is oil canning is there still pressure locked somewhere in the dent.
Probably but in a shop you don't have tons of time to play with it and you're going to have to fill it any way so....
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
How to shrink on the low oil canning area?
Do you mean if an area is low? You would pop that into the "out" position and shrink as shown in the video. If it is low and not bothering anything, then leave it and fill. If it's really low, you'll have to pull it and then address any oil canning issues after the pull. You just don't want any high metal spots or super low spots.
Thank u for ur reply
The roof on my truck is oil canning very badly, but doesn't show any signs of a dent being fixed inside. I may have to try this so the roof isn't so "soft." Yay 80's GM quality. lol
So does mine on a 1996 Chevy Silverado. I think they finished the first truck and said, "Too late now."
Pretty slick, think I'd use a shrinking hammer though instead of leaving such a big "hole".
Thanks :)
Why did you put a dent in it????
That's a great question and there's a lot of science behind it. What that little ding does is actually pull a bunch of metal "down that hole" and tightens up the panel. That way it doesn't oil can or snap back and forth anymore. Shrinking hammers and dollies probably work for very light damage but for severely stretched metal this is the way to go.
Thank You
You're welcome
for some reason i thought you were restoring some american classic, lol. great video nonetheless!
Definitely not a classic :)
Sometimes you can get away without heat with a waffle hammer.
Be careful for what’s behind your metal if you use a torch. flame and water will warp the panel. I like to just use a adapter tip for my stud welder that heats the spot up cool with air and put a rubber sound killer patch to keep it stiff
What kind of adapter tip/where do you get them? I've rigged up all sorts of things with my stud welder to use it to heat spots but I've never been entirely happy with the results.
Mark Pikas I bought the snap on stud gun. YA22345KT you can see the accessories. But you can change the tips that you can’t do on the maxi
VENOMVETTE then you dont kknow what your doing
What did i stop and watch did he just divit that
This method is a game changer. Guys I worked with that didn't have a method that worked every single time had real problems with large dents and serious collision damage. This simple procedure works every time :)
Yep you watched it, and yep he did it, he actually used a soldering torch for a shrink and hammered a big divot in the panel. 😮 😢 You sound like you know what you have seen and it is not “a game changer”. This is the second LS video I have watched (part of), the first was by accident, this one a error of not paying attention.
So you are a cave and pave kinda guy not the way to do it but to each its own
No - that's the way it is done in professional body shops. Metal finishing, which has been made popular by the internet and TV is impractical with today's sheet metal as it is 22 gauge or thinner (6 hairs thick) so I.O.W don't grind it down or file it down. Those who are afraid to use the products that are made for auto body repair will not succeed or make money in the trade because getting filler straight is probably the most important/difficult part of that career. Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: ruclips.net/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/видео.html or
ruclips.net/video/2o37dX--w0I/видео.html