Thank you for watching! Please like and subscribe. If I helped you complete your project, please consider Super Thanks: ruclips.net/video/mo4g08Jzezk/видео.html Thanks, Nick
Terrific video. Thanks! If you are starting with an engine that has never had the crank pulley off, can't you align the crank (and therefore pulley) with the alignment tool that screws into the timing cover, then lock down the crank with the alignment tool that holds the flywheel in place. Then when you remove the crank pulley, you know the crank is positioned correctly without the need to remove the axle in order to install the pin to align the crank. It seems many people are having issues with the axle removal/install and if this would work it would make this job a bit easier.
Fantastic Video. Thanks for all the info. Mine is a 2016 Evoque. It's at the shop now. I bought it knowing it had that problem. Worth 18K, I paid 10K, in my opinion, an amazing deal. The car is brand new, drives like new.
I commented in part 1 and I want to say it took me about 2 hours to get the control arm in and lined up. My biggest issue was the Torx bolt and getting it to start. It was very difficult and frustrating. It wore me down pretty good. LOL
Thanks man! Proper comprehensive. I'm just reading around these cars (just bought one) and am amazed how much dismantling needs to be done on these modern engines. Cannot believe you have to pull that axle to get to the pin location, crazy design! I've just done the timing belt on my 2.2L diesel and the flywheel locking pin is the same design wtf? I mean why can't there be a hole in a place where you don't need to remove the starter? Jeeze.
Great VID. timing chain just left me stranded in my 2017. DS. fortunately for me land rover is covering the repair under CPO. I'm having them add a new serpentine belt on reinstallation. (68,768 miles ) thank for posting this was very informative. mine is a jag/turbo . BTW land rover assistance was pretty efficient getting to me while disabled on the highway.
Thanks! The parts are linked in the video description. It is sometimes hard to see, but it (they) are there. For your convenience: Timing Components OEM: amzn.to/3KSQQkQ Timing Tools: amzn.to/3RpR85r Cylinder Leakage Tester: amzn.to/3RDZbeQ Valve Cover with Gasket: amzn.to/3RIUOPf Valve Cover Gasket: amzn.to/3x0Ha24
Was able to get the axle out by just removing the balljoint at the lower control arm and smacking the axle in with an air hammer/ chisel. Diddnt have to take anything else out to get the axle outta the way. To hold the knuckle out of the way i used a cam strap attatched to the caliper
Hey there thanks for this part two and part one video. I did check out your description for parts used but any aftermarket parts that may be good that you think is worth buying?
hey bud, great video, just a question does the vvt actuator/s need to be in a specific position to the camshaft or does it not matter?(with special timing tools in place)
The sprockets and cam shafts don't have any pins so they can be mounted in any orientation. I've only found one reference to orientation at the 5 minute and 50 second mark of this video: ruclips.net/video/V7Qf92qumgs/видео.html But even if you put them in that orientation, it isn't an exact science with no locating/dowel pins.
As I recall, there are no marks. You lock the crank in position, and then you lock the cams in position. Then you torque the cam sprockets down. If you give me a time stamp where I say "do it anyway", I could provide more context.
Thanks for the reply. At 7:45 into the video, you mention put on any way you want. Could be an interpretation on my end. I figured the timing chain has timing marks that need to line up on the sprockets. I assume this was the case. Reason why I questioned it. Appreciate this video and I will be doing a follow-along video.
I just did my second one last week. Phaser locks were broken, chain was hanging on by one link. Garbage design, at least I’m not surprised being a ford motor 😅 Any idea why I’d be getting a p0016 code after a lot of driving? Usually correlation codes post up by the second startup. Car drives perfectly fine
@@NiXFiX yes I had to re time the engine. I have a cheap knockoff timing set for it, and I found that when I dug back in there was an ever so slight alignment issue with the camshafts. Ended up using some feeler gauges to take up the slop
Has anyone found a way to get the control arm to line up? I got it on once without putting the shock on first, but then couldn't get the shock started. Now i have the opposite problem. Thinking maybe go back to the 1st way and use a spring compressor?
I don't know exactly what you mean by coupling. Do you mean the bolt that threads into the camshaft that drives the vacuum pump? If so, it is a 17mm hex (allen). Hold the camshaft with a wrench and loosen it.
If you want to go OEM $$$, and have piece of mind, this is the kit I used: amzn.to/3PEItvS If you want to replace all the components (minus the hardware) for cheap: amzn.to/3VbZIWA And if you only need chains and guides (no gears), DNJ is a known aftermarket brand: amzn.to/3j864cb Check the video description for other links.
Hard for me to guess. Probably $2,000 to $3,000 depending if you use after market or genuine parts and if you have an independent shop or the dealer perform it.
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Thank you for watching! Please like and subscribe. If I helped you complete your project, please consider Super Thanks: ruclips.net/video/mo4g08Jzezk/видео.html
Thanks,
Nick
Nick I need help getting the torx bolt back in the hole for the control arm ,it's not lining up please help
Terrific video. Thanks! If you are starting with an engine that has never had the crank pulley off, can't you align the crank (and therefore pulley) with the alignment tool that screws into the timing cover, then lock down the crank with the alignment tool that holds the flywheel in place. Then when you remove the crank pulley, you know the crank is positioned correctly without the need to remove the axle in order to install the pin to align the crank. It seems many people are having issues with the axle removal/install and if this would work it would make this job a bit easier.
Fantastic Video. Thanks for all the info. Mine is a 2016 Evoque. It's at the shop now. I bought it knowing it had that problem. Worth 18K, I paid 10K, in my opinion, an amazing deal. The car is brand new, drives like new.
I commented in part 1 and I want to say it took me about 2 hours to get the control arm in and lined up. My biggest issue was the Torx bolt and getting it to start. It was very difficult and frustrating. It wore me down pretty good. LOL
I had the same problem. That bushings hard as fuck and difficult to manipulate
@williamthibault5545 I tried all day on the torx bolt can't get the Bushing to go in far enough could you tell me how you did it
Thanks man! Proper comprehensive.
I'm just reading around these cars (just bought one) and am amazed how much dismantling needs to be done on these modern engines. Cannot believe you have to pull that axle to get to the pin location, crazy design!
I've just done the timing belt on my 2.2L diesel and the flywheel locking pin is the same design wtf? I mean why can't there be a hole in a place where you don't need to remove the starter? Jeeze.
Gracias es de mucha ayuda
Great VID. timing chain just left me stranded in my 2017. DS. fortunately for me land rover is covering the repair under CPO. I'm having them add a new serpentine belt on reinstallation. (68,768 miles ) thank for posting this was very informative. mine is a jag/turbo . BTW land rover assistance was pretty efficient getting to me while disabled on the highway.
Thanks! Sorry to hear you were stranded, but it sounds like they took care of you pretty well! Glad to hear they'll take care of the repair as well!
Awesome Video! I was hoping to see what brand of parts you described to go with..😢
Thanks! The parts are linked in the video description. It is sometimes hard to see, but it (they) are there. For your convenience: Timing Components OEM: amzn.to/3KSQQkQ
Timing Tools: amzn.to/3RpR85r
Cylinder Leakage Tester: amzn.to/3RDZbeQ
Valve Cover with Gasket: amzn.to/3RIUOPf
Valve Cover Gasket: amzn.to/3x0Ha24
Thank you very much for awesome and clear detailed video, This has been super helpful.
Was able to get the axle out by just removing the balljoint at the lower control arm and smacking the axle in with an air hammer/ chisel. Diddnt have to take anything else out to get the axle outta the way. To hold the knuckle out of the way i used a cam strap attatched to the caliper
Hey there thanks for this part two and part one video. I did check out your description for parts used but any aftermarket parts that may be good that you think is worth buying?
hey bud, great video, just a question does the vvt actuator/s need to be in a specific position to the camshaft or does it not matter?(with special timing tools in place)
The sprockets and cam shafts don't have any pins so they can be mounted in any orientation. I've only found one reference to orientation at the 5 minute and 50 second mark of this video: ruclips.net/video/V7Qf92qumgs/видео.html
But even if you put them in that orientation, it isn't an exact science with no locating/dowel pins.
@@NiXFiX ok sweet thanks for your help 👍
Could you please tell me how many control oil solenoids does Range Rover evoque 2012 has?… and where r they located please
What a PITA job, book time calls for 8 hours lmao.
great video thank you! gonna do this on a 2012 evoque
Thanks! Good luck!
Judging by intonation when you said "not castrol" - just felt the "love" for that oil.
I dont use it either.
Red Line in all of my cars.
the bolt that screw into the intake camshaft have a special way to set
Well done! awesome video - thank you!!
You mentioned “do it any way” when installing the time chain itself. Isn’t there marks that need to line up? Even if the crank is at TDC.
As I recall, there are no marks. You lock the crank in position, and then you lock the cams in position. Then you torque the cam sprockets down. If you give me a time stamp where I say "do it anyway", I could provide more context.
Thanks for the reply. At 7:45 into the video, you mention put on any way you want. Could be an interpretation on my end.
I figured the timing chain has timing marks that need to line up on the sprockets. I assume this was the case. Reason why I questioned it.
Appreciate this video and I will be doing a follow-along video.
I just did my second one last week. Phaser locks were broken, chain was hanging on by one link. Garbage design, at least I’m not surprised being a ford motor 😅
Any idea why I’d be getting a p0016 code after a lot of driving? Usually correlation codes post up by the second startup. Car drives perfectly fine
Did you figure out why you were getting P0016?
@@NiXFiX yes I had to re time the engine. I have a cheap knockoff timing set for it, and I found that when I dug back in there was an ever so slight alignment issue with the camshafts. Ended up using some feeler gauges to take up the slop
@Darin Long yes
Great job!😀
Did you lube the cam caps before putting them on?
No, just the cam itself.
Has anyone found a way to get the control arm to line up? I got it on once without putting the shock on first, but then couldn't get the shock started. Now i have the opposite problem. Thinking maybe go back to the 1st way and use a spring compressor?
I found the easy way if anyone needs it lmk
How do you remove the camshaft coupling at the end?
I don't know exactly what you mean by coupling. Do you mean the bolt that threads into the camshaft that drives the vacuum pump? If so, it is a 17mm hex (allen). Hold the camshaft with a wrench and loosen it.
Where did you buy the timing kit ? do you have a website you can share .
If you want to go OEM $$$, and have piece of mind, this is the kit I used:
amzn.to/3PEItvS
If you want to replace all the components (minus the hardware) for cheap:
amzn.to/3VbZIWA
And if you only need chains and guides (no gears), DNJ is a known aftermarket brand:
amzn.to/3j864cb
Check the video description for other links.
Couldn’t get the T60 bolt back in after trying to reinstall the axel
How did you get the torx bolt in ? I'm having the same problem
How much does that cost to repair
Hard for me to guess. Probably $2,000 to $3,000 depending if you use after market or genuine parts and if you have an independent shop or the dealer perform it.
Lagunitas yeah