Rob, thanks for taking the time to put this together. I imported a Bailey Wyoming from UK to NZ and have owned it for the last 5 yrs or so. 6 months ago I discovered what you had, and I'm grateful for you providing guidance on the repair process. By far the worst part of the process was dealing with the window seal grey 'plumbers putty' sealant. Rather than buy new seals (couldn't afford at this time) I tried removing the grey sealant with petrol, turps, meths, MEK, thinners etc and nothing worked. Then I discovered a local product that worked. First I had to removed the bulk of the grey sealant by way of heat gun applied heat. I wore a HD work glove to handle the hot seal, and using a square putty knife I pressed down on a suitable work surface- in my case steel, and scraped forward on the heated sealant. Repeat to remove most of it, leaving as thin a layer as possible. Then I applied a citrus based bio-degradable product with a rag and elbow grease to remove most of the remainder. It took me around 6hrs all up and now window seals are ready to fit and seal again. Hope this helps others on this journey. Here's a link to the sealant removal product sold in NZ, have no idea what it might be branded elsewhere? www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/de-solv-it-sticky-spot-and-stain-remover-300ml-clear/p/325523
Great video just purchased a 2007 bailey paegent with a small leak over front middle window , thanks for making this simple to watch,have also seen your internal video a little daunting task but very informative.
Excellent! Thanks for taking so much of your time to help others. I have water ingress issues presenting as wood rot / softness of the interior cill under front window. Your video will help me to both further identify the source of the problem and also remedy it. Small things (to you) like how to remove the windows, are immensely helpful to me. Thank you very much for your efforts. Jim
Hi Rob - just watched your video about leaking front windows. I had the same problem with water ingress as you. After repairs and resealing, I went and bought a length of J track which I fitted upside down above windows ( in your case just below PAGEANT) which acted as a gutter so water dispersed away from windows. I have done this now to all my windows and so far so good. Got the idea when looking at some 50s and 60s caravans hope this has been helpful. Charlie
Both videos are just great and have given me the courage (and knowledge) to understand the source of the leak and to tackle this job. Many thanks for taking the time and the trouble to share this on RUclips
Thanks for making and sharing this video. Seems to be very common problem with these and it's so useful to see what to expect before attempting the repair - much appreciated.
Hi Rob, Thanks for this really helpful video. I’ve recently purchased a Bailey Senator of about the same age as the Pageant, with identical front panel. Noticed some water leaking from the window seal after heavy rain and am fairly sure it may actually be coming in along the rail and down behind the seals. Fortunately the wood under the seals around the frames is still sound, though damp. And there’s no evidence of damp damage around the inner panels, so I may be fortunate. Thanks to you, I now know how to tackle the root cause of the problem and hopefully will get the rail off soon to check. Thanks again for your help. David C
Hi David, I'm glad I have been of some help. Good luck with your repair. My caravan was still going strong when I sold it last year. We've invested in our first ever brand new one which hasn't come without it's own problems.
I have a 2007 bailey pageant bordeaux. I noticed water inside on the window cill. I've pulled the rubber surround back and the frame work around the central window is completely rotted out as is the wall board behind the roller blind. I've been told bailey Ashton is a good match to the original wall board? I'm going to tackle the job myself. 😬 This video has helped me enormously. Thanks for the upload.
Rob, I know youve finished the job so this advice will come too late. But for next time... I've done a lot of underwater sealing between wood and fibreglass on yacht rebuilding. I would use a product called Everdure on the wood before its closed off with the cover panels and pre installation as well. This is very thin watery epoxy and is readily absorbed by the wood, just was water would, but his goes off and platicises the wood. No water can now enter the wood as its permanently sealed!/ The same with the cracks, it will penetrate and because it watery, it will 'climb' into the cracks and wood behind by capliliary action. I would also apply it into the screwholes too, sealing then off. Its not going to fill a void, that's not what it does. It's a penatrating sealer, and if done with dry wood, its bombproof. Then you can then fill the gaps with a sealer. Its important to make sure the wood is dry, use a hair drier and then apply the Everdure while its warm, as it cools it will suck the epoxy into the wood. Keep adding more until it won't absorb any more. I' m just about to do my Senator Oklahoma which has no signs of any leaks ( having been housed all its life) but I do like to sleep well at night! You how to was very useful as to understanding the problem, thank you!
That's excellent advice for anyone thinking of carrying out this repair. I would definitely treat the wood in the way you described if I ever had to do a similar repair. Thanks.
Thanks for this my Senator has a leak in the front window that I’ve yet to find the cause of. I’ve got a sneaker feeling it will be in this area. It amazes me how production companies don’t think about future servicing and repair access. I work in the boat industry (floating caravans) and it’s exactly the same!
Hi Rob Many thanks for the video, very informative. Like most, I also have a problem with damp at the front of the van but couldn't understand how it was getting in. We are away next week, taking the van to Tenby. I'm going to remove the windows when we get back and carryout the repair now that I know what to look for, cheers
Thanks for both the videos. I will be having a go on mine soon. I have decided to get in a mobile plastic welder. bit more pricey but hopefully will stop those pesky cracks from spreading forever.
Good to watch this Rob. I've given this new video a shout out in the comments under the video I put up of the repairs I made - all thanks to your inspiration! Our Pageant? So far, so good - but I did add a strip of fibreglass for reinforcement before replacing the hinge runner as mine had already split in several places. I suspect there is some damp in the rear wall I will have to tackle sooner or later. If I do, like you, I'll try and do a proper video rather than just stills! Who knows - we might even get the chance to get away in it this summer.
Great video Rob, as is the previous one with the wooden frame replacement. I've had a few similar issues with my Pageant Imperial and will have a go at the front window bar/seals over the next week or so.
Great to watch you at work, it gives me encouragement to tackle a similar problem on my lunar. My approach is going to be slightly different to yours in that my view is that the bar holding the windows could be the cause of the problem along with no pilot holes for the fixing screws during manufacture. When the bar heats up with the sun it must expand slightly and with no pilot hole movement for the screws tension cracks could happen. A tip from a friendly (and sympathetic) caravan engineer was to drill holes for plastic rawlplugs and screw into those, you then have the screws able to flex slightly with any movement of the bar, plastic against plastic. I am also going to use hot staples to strengthen the crack which is slightly longer than you had, and Bondic UVc glue to fill it. Just waiting for the rain to stop!!
Thanks for your kind and helpful comments Roger. Your suggestions prove that, with ingenuity and possibly a little bit of experimentation, there is more than one way to skin a cat as the saying goes. My videos were only ever intended to inspire. They were not meant as a hard and fast set of instructions as some other commenters seem to have perceived them. Good luck with your repair, going by your description I'm sure it will be totally successful.
Hi Rob Having broke my arm shortly after I replied to your great video, I have finally got around to doing my own repair which I have videoed (for first time but not as competent as yourself ha ha) you can follow the link to it here, I hope it’s of some use to you. ruclips.net/video/qfJluqNwt0I/видео.html
@@sparkytod2 Congratulations on a great job. I've watched your video and the repair looks very professional. I'm sure you'll inspire others to follow your lead.
I found a few smal cracks on the roof of my 2002 Elddis Odyssey just this week and weather being what it is just now i obviously cant work on it but i went on to e bay and bought some clear Gorrilla Tape, tape is amazing , strong and tough, totally waterproof and covers the cracks and keeps the rain out till the good weather comes in and i can do it properly, would strongly reccomend it if you have cracks or holes on the outside of your van, its £9.99 a roll but better that than the cost of repairing interior panels.
Your video was really helpful to me as I have been carrying out a similar repair on my 2010 ranger. I did approach the split problem a little differently though by reinforcing the split holes from the rear whilst they were exposed using stainless mesh (similar to that on a frying pan splatter guard), which I melted locally into the panel until it sat flush. This obviously stops the split progression as well as knitting the panel together where any split has occurred. It then provides a good base for sealant (or sealing tape) to be applied both back and front . Thanks for the video, much appreciated and I hope you find my slightly different approach to be useful should you need to do something similar in the future
I have the same issue. Im about to build a new frame for my windows. Im just wondering, instead of building hollow frames around each window. I was simply going to put 1 solid board 25mm thick as the new wall. Cut the windows out and buy the 25mm new window seal.do you think this will work. Also im considering putting a rubber flap above tje window rail to direct water away from it as i have waterproof tape on the windows at preaent until i have the windows repaired.
I used epoxy on a 15 month old swift where the awning rail didn't have any pilot holes drilled on the NS . Honestly I don't know how major manufacturers can sleep at night not doing things properly. I then used gel coat GRP coating over the top ..its been fine now for 9 years.. although I now have a new damp issue on the NS side window . So bought new wallboard . BTW swift head office refused to tell me the name of the wallboard ....thru really don't like DIY maintainers ...instead they want people to shell out mega money for substandard caravans
I've got 2006 same...but I've been getting condensation just in one corner on window rubber and it's running on to shelf making a mess...after checking windows, the centre and corner one have de laminated...so I found a replacement for corner...but it's still doing it any ideas...
Good evening, Rob! I am from Romania. A year ago I bought a beautiful Bailey Peageant Champagne caravan. I have the same problems as you 5 years ago. Can you make a list of the materials used? Pretty please. My caravan has no curtains. Where can I buy and how much does it cost? We don't want it, I want a second.
Hey Rob, great video as i am in the same circumstances with my pageant series 5 . What tape do you recommend to temporarily seal round the windows, at least until i get a chance to take a better look at this . Something that will adhere but come off easily when the time comes
@@gumpvalve2639 I took the windows out and used the tape exactly as shown in this video. I have no knowledge of how the tape might perform in any other situation. In my original video I used duct tape to fasten a thick sheet of polythene over the entire front of the caravan during the course of the repair. I'm very sorry but I wouldn't like to comment on any other hypothetical situation that I don't have knowledge or experience of.
Hi Manoj Kumar. I didn't use silicone. I used the mastic that came with the rubber window seals. Mine came on a roll but I believe some seal manufacturers provide the mastic already applied to the seal. You'd be best advised speaking to the seal supplier.
Hi buddy I've got same problem with water on my caravan we purchased last week windows are completely rotten what size is the wood thickness you replaced it with were did you source your materials you used please ben
If you take a look at the original video from five years earlier and read the comments those questions were answered. It was that long ago I can't remember. Sorry.
Thank you for your videos. Very helpful. Do you mind me asking how you got the screws out of the bottom of the blinds as there is no space for a screwdriver?
Hi Debbie, I answered the exact same question a couple of years ago on the original repair video so I've copied my answer as follows; No screwdriver is short enough so I used a screwdriver 'bit' from a multi tool. Find a spanner that is slightly too big for the hexagon on the 'bit'. Grind one down if necessary until you can hammer the 'bit' into the spanner until it is gripped extremely tightly. Be prepared for a lengthy process of turning the awkwardly positioned screw a quarter of a turn at a time until it's out. Good luck.
Hi Rob, Many thanks for your excellent video. I am about to tackle a similar problem I have on my Lunar Lexon 2008 caravan, and your video has given me the confidence to do it. Could I ask what type of staple gun did you use. The staoples are about 12 mm long that i have removed so far .Can you use a manual staple gun for this length of staple or do I have to invest in an electric gun.?
I have Bailey Pageant Series 5, the whole area above and around the side window is soggy with damp. I am tempted to have a go at the repair myself. Two questions really; what will the damp issue unrepaired have on the resale price, secondly, where do I buy the matching internal lining and replacement seating cushions. Many thanks for your help.
Hi Chris, The matching internal wallboard was purchased online from O'Leary Motorhome's website and on the 2006 Pageant Bordeaux the design is called 'Bailey Flax'. Having googled it I think the cushions can be purchased from the Bailey parts website here; www.primaleisure.com/category/caravan?gclid=Cj0KCQiA-aGCBhCwARIsAHDl5x8pXSASCqaEz2XsCmFbC6_uyVdt80ywlvdQ6ZzMfc1MwAKWQrBKym0aAr92EALw_wcB As for the unrepaired value of your damp caravan your guess is as good as mine.
Thanks for this and the earlier video, have same problem. Just wondering if I could use a sheet of marine ply with the sections for the windows cut out instead of the timber frame? What thickness of timber is required? thanks.
Hi Mario, Apart from the additional weight and the clearance to actually get the sheet of marine ply into position I don't see any reason why you couldn't do it. It is seven years since I made the repair and regrettably I didn't record the sizes of the timber frame but I think the thickness was between about 22 to 25mm. Best of luck my friend.
@@kwackman Hi Rob, thanks for your reply. I'm hoping weight gain will be minimal after Windows cutouts, I won't know if it fits until I try. Your videos have given me the confidence to do so thanks again.
Hi I’ve this job to do on our Bailey Padgent,the replacement wood batons can I ask what thickness are they as I need to go and buy the wood also where did you buy your knew wallboard from ?.
Hi Kenneth Thompson, Unfortunately I didn't record the dimensions of the timber structure, I just took an intact piece to my local timber supplier and asked him to replicate the required dimensions in the lengths necessary to provide enough new timber to complete the job. Regarding the wallboard, I had it delivered from www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/ as shown at (time frame) 2.02 on my original video here ruclips.net/video/ia_g1mh5P24/видео.html. Good luck with your job and I'm really sorry if this hasn't been of help but it was over five years ago since I rebuilt the timber frame. The good news is the total cost of all timber including having it cut to the correct cross sectional dimensions was only £12.60p.
Hi, I'm currently repairing a leak from the front, looks as though it's been repaired in the past (badly). I've decided to buy new rubber seals for around the windows. My model is a bailey pageant champagne series 6 2007. Do you know if they are the 35mm seals? Kind regards.
Sorry I have no experience of any other caravan than the one I made the videos about. It was a DIY repair to a caravan that I happened to own at the time. I would suggest that you contact the supplier of the window seals and ask them to confirm the fitment is compatible with your caravan.
hi, great video but i'm just wondering does the silicone stick to the clear tape as i'm just about to do the same having watched you very helpful video
Hi Ernie, I wouldn't use silicone. I used Sikaflex 522. It's similar to a mastic in that it remains slightly flexible but absolutely sticks to and seals virtually anything including the clear tape.
Quick question, was the water collecting on the inside of the window seal? Ours has an intermittent water collection on the seal, would it be coming from the window rail? Great video
@@kwackman hi, thanks for your reply, having opened the window there's moisture on the inside where it seals, I think it's the window seal and rain is driving in, depending on the direction of it, I need to investigate further, it did drop slightly in the summer because I couldn't line the stays up to close it on to the tightest setting, I opened it and it moved up and I could close it properly. Just keeping a eye daily on it to make sure water isn't collecting in a big pool
@@ashsmith6397 up to now its not happened again after cleaning debris from behind the window by opening the window fully, it now has a proper seal all round it. I just keep checking to and dontvopen that window.
Hi Edmund, I had no idea there was a problem until one of the front blinds fell off. When I tried to screw it back on, the screws felt like they were penetrating sponge. It was at this point I bought a damp meter. It was only after I had removed the window rail and window seals and cleaned away the excess sealant that I noticed the cracks. I you suspect your caravan has similar cracks I suggest opening up or preferably removing a front window and pry back the window seal adjacent to each rail screw. You should be able to see any cracks if they are there. Good luck.
@@kwackman I shall investigate it for sure I’ve been round the windows with a meter but not looking for specific problem. I have to say I do think that’s a rubbish way for Bailey to attach a rail knowing water runs down that area from the roof. Cheers for sharing.
I didn't and wouldn't use abrasives on the exterior plastic. I removed residual sealant with a plastic spatula and finally with a cloth soaked with meths.
@@kwackman ok thanks the previous owner did a bad bodge job on the front window of mine and screwed a wooden batten on the inside under the window and the screws have come through the front of the caravan body... thought I might have to smooth down the holes before I filled them
No problem Vanessa, I've shown the whole process in detail from 48 minutes 12 seconds into the video. Bye the way, the windows hook in - they don't 'slot' in.
I didn't need to do that on mine so I'm sorry I can't help. I've sold the van now to buy a brand new Swift a few weeks ago. Only been out in it once for three nights and it had to go into the workshop of the dealer for what appeared to be a minor adjustment which turned out to be a serious build fault. Now it has to go back to the manufacturer for a six to eight week rebuild.... but they can't start before December. Gutted, to say the least.
I have learnt so much from this step by step excellent repair. I have watched many videos but this one is brilliant . Thank you Rob . ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rob, thanks for taking the time to put this together. I imported a Bailey Wyoming from UK to NZ and have owned it for the last 5 yrs or so. 6 months ago I discovered what you had, and I'm grateful for you providing guidance on the repair process. By far the worst part of the process was dealing with the window seal grey 'plumbers putty' sealant. Rather than buy new seals (couldn't afford at this time) I tried removing the grey sealant with petrol, turps, meths, MEK, thinners etc and nothing worked. Then I discovered a local product that worked. First I had to removed the bulk of the grey sealant by way of heat gun applied heat. I wore a HD work glove to handle the hot seal, and using a square putty knife I pressed down on a suitable work surface- in my case steel, and scraped forward on the heated sealant. Repeat to remove most of it, leaving as thin a layer as possible. Then I applied a citrus based bio-degradable product with a rag and elbow grease to remove most of the remainder. It took me around 6hrs all up and now window seals are ready to fit and seal again. Hope this helps others on this journey. Here's a link to the sealant removal product sold in NZ, have no idea what it might be branded elsewhere?
www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/de-solv-it-sticky-spot-and-stain-remover-300ml-clear/p/325523
Great video just purchased a 2007 bailey paegent with a small leak over front middle window , thanks for making this simple to watch,have also seen your internal video a little daunting task but very informative.
Excellent! Thanks for taking so much of your time to help others. I have water ingress issues presenting as wood rot / softness of the interior cill under front window. Your video will help me to both further identify the source of the problem and also remedy it. Small things (to you) like how to remove the windows, are immensely helpful to me. Thank you very much for your efforts. Jim
Hi Rob - just watched your video about leaking front windows. I had the same problem with water ingress as you. After repairs and resealing, I went and bought a length of J track which I fitted upside down above windows ( in your case just below PAGEANT) which acted as a gutter so water dispersed away from windows. I have done this now to all my windows and so far so good.
Got the idea when looking at some 50s and 60s caravans hope this has been helpful. Charlie
Hi - How did you attached the J track to the caravan?
Both videos are just great and have given me the courage (and knowledge) to understand the source of the leak and to tackle this job. Many thanks for taking the time and the trouble to share this on RUclips
Thanks for making and sharing this video. Seems to be very common problem with these and it's so useful to see what to expect before attempting the repair - much appreciated.
Hi Rob,
Thanks for this really helpful video. I’ve recently purchased a Bailey Senator of about the same age as the Pageant, with identical front panel. Noticed some water leaking from the window seal after heavy rain and am fairly sure it may actually be coming in along the rail and down behind the seals.
Fortunately the wood under the seals around the frames is still sound, though damp. And there’s no evidence of damp damage around the inner panels, so I may be fortunate.
Thanks to you, I now know how to tackle the root cause of the problem and hopefully will get the rail off soon to check.
Thanks again for your help.
David C
Hi David, I'm glad I have been of some help. Good luck with your repair. My caravan was still going strong when I sold it last year. We've invested in our first ever brand new one which hasn't come without it's own problems.
I have a 2007 bailey pageant bordeaux. I noticed water inside on the window cill. I've pulled the rubber surround back and the frame work around the central window is completely rotted out as is the wall board behind the roller blind. I've been told bailey Ashton is a good match to the original wall board? I'm going to tackle the job myself. 😬 This video has helped me enormously. Thanks for the upload.
Glad it's been of some help. Good luck.
This is just the video I needed fella.👍.found damp in my bailey pageant provence up an around the windows.going to sort it myself in a few weeks.👍
Fantastic. Just bought a Sterling caravan with a similar issue. Thanks for such an informative video!
Rob, I know youve finished the job so this advice will come too late. But for next time...
I've done a lot of underwater sealing between wood and fibreglass on yacht rebuilding. I would use a product called Everdure on the wood before its closed off with the cover panels and pre installation as well. This is very thin watery epoxy and is readily absorbed by the wood, just was water would, but his goes off and platicises the wood. No water can now enter the wood as its permanently sealed!/ The same with the cracks, it will penetrate and because it watery, it will 'climb' into the cracks and wood behind by capliliary action. I would also apply it into the screwholes too, sealing then off. Its not going to fill a void, that's not what it does. It's a penatrating sealer, and if done with dry wood, its bombproof. Then you can then fill the gaps with a sealer. Its important to make sure the wood is dry, use a hair drier and then apply the Everdure while its warm, as it cools it will suck the epoxy into the wood. Keep adding more until it won't absorb any more.
I' m just about to do my Senator Oklahoma which has no signs of any leaks ( having been housed all its life) but I do like to sleep well at night! You how to was very useful as to understanding the problem, thank you!
That's excellent advice for anyone thinking of carrying out this repair. I would definitely treat the wood in the way you described if I ever had to do a similar repair. Thanks.
Thanks for this my Senator has a leak in the front window that I’ve yet to find the cause of. I’ve got a sneaker feeling it will be in this area. It amazes me how production companies don’t think about future servicing and repair access. I work in the boat industry (floating caravans) and it’s exactly the same!
If it were a car they would have to do recall but not Bailey oh no
Brilliant, very educational, I've got a bailey pageant moselle with damp, so I've learned alot from you. Thanks...👍
Thanks Rick. Good luck with yours.
Hi Rob
Many thanks for the video, very informative. Like most, I also have a problem with damp at the front of the van but couldn't understand how it was getting in. We are away next week, taking the van to Tenby. I'm going to remove the windows when we get back and carryout the repair now that I know what to look for, cheers
Thanks for both the videos. I will be having a go on mine soon. I have decided to get in a mobile plastic welder. bit more pricey but hopefully will stop those pesky cracks from spreading forever.
Great idea Trix1989. Let us know how it goes.
@@kwackman We are doing mine this week, 8 out of 10 have cracked. plastic welder is coming Thurs will see If I can get some images for you.
Good to watch this Rob. I've given this new video a shout out in the comments under the video I put up of the repairs I made - all thanks to your inspiration! Our Pageant? So far, so good - but I did add a strip of fibreglass for reinforcement before replacing the hinge runner as mine had already split in several places. I suspect there is some damp in the rear wall I will have to tackle sooner or later. If I do, like you, I'll try and do a proper video rather than just stills! Who knows - we might even get the chance to get away in it this summer.
I certainly hope we get chance to get away in the vans this summer, I have several CLs already booked up.
Great video Rob, as is the previous one with the wooden frame replacement. I've had a few similar issues with my Pageant Imperial and will have a go at the front window bar/seals over the next week or so.
Thanks Wanderer. Good luck.
Great to watch you at work, it gives me encouragement to tackle a similar problem on my lunar. My approach is going to be slightly different to yours in that my view is that the bar holding the windows could be the cause of the problem along with no pilot holes for the fixing screws during manufacture. When the bar heats up with the sun it must expand slightly and with no pilot hole movement for the screws tension cracks could happen. A tip from a friendly (and sympathetic) caravan engineer was to drill holes for plastic rawlplugs and screw into those, you then have the screws able to flex slightly with any movement of the bar, plastic against plastic. I am also going to use hot staples to strengthen the crack which is slightly longer than you had, and Bondic UVc glue to fill it. Just waiting for the rain to stop!!
Thanks for your kind and helpful comments Roger. Your suggestions prove that, with ingenuity and possibly a little bit of experimentation, there is more than one way to skin a cat as the saying goes. My videos were only ever intended to inspire. They were not meant as a hard and fast set of instructions as some other commenters seem to have perceived them. Good luck with your repair, going by your description I'm sure it will be totally successful.
Hi Rob Having broke my arm shortly after I replied to your great video, I have finally got around to doing my own repair which I have videoed (for first time but not as competent as yourself ha ha) you can follow the link to it here, I hope it’s of some use to you.
ruclips.net/video/qfJluqNwt0I/видео.html
@@sparkytod2 Congratulations on a great job. I've watched your video and the repair looks very professional. I'm sure you'll inspire others to follow your lead.
I found a few smal cracks on the roof of my 2002 Elddis Odyssey just this week and weather being what it is just now i obviously cant work on it but i went on to e bay and bought some clear Gorrilla Tape, tape is amazing , strong and tough, totally waterproof and covers the cracks and keeps the rain out till the good weather comes in and i can do it properly, would strongly reccomend it if you have cracks or holes on the outside of your van, its £9.99 a roll but better that than the cost of repairing interior panels.
I couldn't agree more Edward. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Your video was really helpful to me as I have been carrying out a similar repair on my 2010 ranger. I did approach the split problem a little differently though by reinforcing the split holes from the rear whilst they were exposed using stainless mesh (similar to that on a frying pan splatter guard), which I melted locally into the panel until it sat flush. This obviously stops the split progression as well as knitting the panel together where any split has occurred. It then provides a good base for sealant (or sealing tape) to be applied both back and front . Thanks for the video, much appreciated and I hope you find my slightly different approach to be useful should you need to do something similar in the future
Great idea Robert.
Great idea, what did you melt it in with?
I have the same issue. Im about to build a new frame for my windows. Im just wondering, instead of building hollow frames around each window. I was simply going to put 1 solid board 25mm thick as the new wall. Cut the windows out and buy the 25mm new window seal.do you think this will work. Also im considering putting a rubber flap above tje window rail to direct water away from it as i have waterproof tape on the windows at preaent until i have the windows repaired.
I used epoxy on a 15 month old swift where the awning rail didn't have any pilot holes drilled on the NS . Honestly I don't know how major manufacturers can sleep at night not doing things properly. I then used gel coat GRP coating over the top ..its been fine now for 9 years.. although I now have a new damp issue on the NS side window . So bought new wallboard . BTW swift head office refused to tell me the name of the wallboard ....thru really don't like DIY maintainers ...instead they want people to shell out mega money for substandard caravans
I am about to start mine, wish me luck.
Great video 😊
Thank you for uploading tips
I've got 2006 same...but I've been getting condensation just in one corner on window rubber and it's running on to shelf making a mess...after checking windows, the centre and corner one have de laminated...so I found a replacement for corner...but it's still doing it any ideas...
J... channel above the window will stop the problem of water running of the roof into the window channel....but great fix...nowt wrong with that.
That works until it overflows, which is about 5 minutes in a heavy downpour
Thanks for the vid, you seem very handy with your diy skills you should make more videos! Would you ever consider a caravan cover?
I bought a full cover a few years ago but it was just too difficult and time consuming to fit.
Good evening, Rob! I am from Romania. A year ago I bought a beautiful Bailey Peageant Champagne caravan. I have the same problems as you 5 years ago. Can you make a list of the materials used? Pretty please. My caravan has no curtains. Where can I buy and how much does it cost? We don't want it, I want a second.
The upholstery on my caravan is just like your caravan. I also have a set of armchairs in the middle. Could we communicate by email?
Sorry I don't have a list of materials other than those stated (with links) in my original video ruclips.net/video/ia_g1mh5P24/видео.html
You can buy mastic on a roll at different diameters which I would put behind the window rail.
Hey Rob, great video as i am in the same circumstances with my pageant series 5 . What tape do you recommend to temporarily seal round the windows, at least until i get a chance to take a better look at this . Something that will adhere but come off easily when the time comes
Thanks Gump, The T-REX clear tape that I used is excellent.
@@kwackman so without taking the windows out or anything , I can just use that over the top like you did with that other tape you temporarily used ?
@@gumpvalve2639 I took the windows out and used the tape exactly as shown in this video. I have no knowledge of how the tape might perform in any other situation. In my original video I used duct tape to fasten a thick sheet of polythene over the entire front of the caravan during the course of the repair. I'm very sorry but I wouldn't like to comment on any other hypothetical situation that I don't have knowledge or experience of.
Hi Rob nice helpful video thanks
Which silicon you used between frame and rubber seal around the edge
Thanks
Hi Manoj Kumar. I didn't use silicone. I used the mastic that came with the rubber window seals. Mine came on a roll but I believe some seal manufacturers provide the mastic already applied to the seal. You'd be best advised speaking to the seal supplier.
Hi buddy I've got same problem with water on my caravan we purchased last week windows are completely rotten what size is the wood thickness you replaced it with were did you source your materials you used please ben
If you take a look at the original video from five years earlier and read the comments those questions were answered. It was that long ago I can't remember. Sorry.
Hi.i tried this method on my caravan window bar,and how do you stop the araldite going hard in the seringe
Great job
Thank you for your videos. Very helpful. Do you mind me asking how you got the screws out of the bottom of the blinds as there is no space for a screwdriver?
Hi Debbie, I answered the exact same question a couple of years ago on the original repair video so I've copied my answer as follows;
No screwdriver is short enough so I used a screwdriver 'bit' from a multi tool. Find a spanner that is slightly too big for the hexagon on the 'bit'. Grind one down if necessary until you can hammer the 'bit' into the spanner until it is gripped extremely tightly. Be prepared for a lengthy process of turning the awkwardly positioned screw a quarter of a turn at a time until it's out. Good luck.
@@kwackman many thanks for your help much appreciated 😊
Great video. Please switch on the subtitle function here. Thank you.
Hi Rob, Many thanks for your excellent video. I am about to tackle a similar problem I have on my Lunar Lexon 2008 caravan, and your video has given me the confidence to do it. Could I ask what type of staple gun did you use. The staoples are about 12 mm long that i have removed so far .Can you use a manual staple gun for this length of staple or do I have to invest in an electric gun.?
Hi Diana, Thanks for your comments. I used an ordinary manual staple gun with a lever operated trigger using 12mm staples. Good luck with your repair.
What would happen if the tape happens to come unstuck, would that cause the sika flex to lift up as well and cause a leak
Cracking video
What about a video of how to find the damp in our vans.
I have Bailey Pageant Series 5, the whole area above and around the side window is soggy with damp. I am tempted to have a go at the repair myself. Two questions really; what will the damp issue unrepaired have on the resale price, secondly, where do I buy the matching internal lining and replacement seating cushions. Many thanks for your help.
Hi Chris, The matching internal wallboard was purchased online from O'Leary Motorhome's website and on the 2006 Pageant Bordeaux the design is called 'Bailey Flax'. Having googled it I think the cushions can be purchased from the Bailey parts website here;
www.primaleisure.com/category/caravan?gclid=Cj0KCQiA-aGCBhCwARIsAHDl5x8pXSASCqaEz2XsCmFbC6_uyVdt80ywlvdQ6ZzMfc1MwAKWQrBKym0aAr92EALw_wcB
As for the unrepaired value of your damp caravan your guess is as good as mine.
Thanks for this and the earlier video, have same problem. Just wondering if I could use a sheet of marine ply with the sections for the windows cut out instead of the timber frame? What thickness of timber is required? thanks.
Hi Mario, Apart from the additional weight and the clearance to actually get the sheet of marine ply into position I don't see any reason why you couldn't do it. It is seven years since I made the repair and regrettably I didn't record the sizes of the timber frame but I think the thickness was between about 22 to 25mm. Best of luck my friend.
@@kwackman Hi Rob, thanks for your reply. I'm hoping weight gain will be minimal after Windows cutouts, I won't know if it fits until I try. Your videos have given me the confidence to do so thanks again.
Hi I’ve this job to do on our Bailey Padgent,the replacement wood batons can I ask what thickness are they as I need to go and buy the wood also where did you buy your knew wallboard from ?.
Hi Kenneth Thompson, Unfortunately I didn't record the dimensions of the timber structure, I just took an intact piece to my local timber supplier and asked him to replicate the required dimensions in the lengths necessary to provide enough new timber to complete the job. Regarding the wallboard, I had it delivered from www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/ as shown at (time frame) 2.02 on my original video here ruclips.net/video/ia_g1mh5P24/видео.html.
Good luck with your job and I'm really sorry if this hasn't been of help but it was over five years ago since I rebuilt the timber frame. The good news is the total cost of all timber including having it cut to the correct cross sectional dimensions was only £12.60p.
Ours seem to be imperial sizes of 1" x 3/4" mainly and some 11/2" x 1".
@@seanharris6574 all sorted now job done
@@kitbag1 good to hear, hoped the sizes will help other readers as seems to be lots having to do this repair now on these vans.
Hi, I'm currently repairing a leak from the front, looks as though it's been repaired in the past (badly). I've decided to buy new rubber seals for around the windows. My model is a bailey pageant champagne series 6 2007. Do you know if they are the 35mm seals?
Kind regards.
Sorry I have no experience of any other caravan than the one I made the videos about. It was a DIY repair to a caravan that I happened to own at the time. I would suggest that you contact the supplier of the window seals and ask them to confirm the fitment is compatible with your caravan.
did u lower the van down to the ground as I got to do mine thanks for the video
Hi John, The job was done with the caravan tyres in contact with the ground.
@@kwackman thanks for the v great did the job
Should have been a Bailey recall five years ago ! Poor design and assembly.
hi, great video but i'm just wondering does the silicone stick to the clear tape as i'm just about to do the same having watched you very helpful video
Hi Ernie, I wouldn't use silicone. I used Sikaflex 522. It's similar to a mastic in that it remains slightly flexible but absolutely sticks to and seals virtually anything including the clear tape.
@@kwackman thanks ., that's what i am using
Quick question, was the water collecting on the inside of the window seal? Ours has an intermittent water collection on the seal, would it be coming from the window rail? Great video
Hi Melanie, the water ingress was out of sight behind the wallboard. Water collecting on the interior seal sounds more like condensation.
@@kwackman hi, thanks for your reply, having opened the window there's moisture on the inside where it seals, I think it's the window seal and rain is driving in, depending on the direction of it, I need to investigate further, it did drop slightly in the summer because I couldn't line the stays up to close it on to the tightest setting, I opened it and it moved up and I could close it properly. Just keeping a eye daily on it to make sure water isn't collecting in a big pool
@@melanieeland4354
Did you find the couse to this ? I have the same issue
@@ashsmith6397 up to now its not happened again after cleaning debris from behind the window by opening the window fully, it now has a proper seal all round it. I just keep checking to and dontvopen that window.
Hi Rob. Could you see the cracks visually before you did the original repair ? Or was it only by seeing a damp reading ??
Hi Edmund, I had no idea there was a problem until one of the front blinds fell off. When I tried to screw it back on, the screws felt like they were penetrating sponge. It was at this point I bought a damp meter. It was only after I had removed the window rail and window seals and cleaned away the excess sealant that I noticed the cracks. I you suspect your caravan has similar cracks I suggest opening up or preferably removing a front window and pry back the window seal adjacent to each rail screw. You should be able to see any cracks if they are there. Good luck.
@@kwackman I shall investigate it for sure I’ve been round the windows with a meter but not looking for specific problem. I have to say I do think that’s a rubbish way for Bailey to attach a rail knowing water runs down that area from the roof. Cheers for sharing.
Hi great video! what grit sandpaper did you use on the exterior plastic of a caravan? I’m guessing aluminium oxide paper is best?
I didn't and wouldn't use abrasives on the exterior plastic. I removed residual sealant with a plastic spatula and finally with a cloth soaked with meths.
@@kwackman ok thanks the previous owner did a bad bodge job on the front window of mine and screwed a wooden batten on the inside under the window and the screws have come through the front of the caravan body... thought I might have to smooth down the holes before I filled them
Can you show us how to get the windows back easily we tried this but windows would not slot back in
No problem Vanessa, I've shown the whole process in detail from 48 minutes 12 seconds into the video. Bye the way, the windows hook in - they don't 'slot' in.
don't suppose you know how to take the top cupboards out please my series 5 got damp and need wall boards changed
I didn't need to do that on mine so I'm sorry I can't help. I've sold the van now to buy a brand new Swift a few weeks ago. Only been out in it once for three nights and it had to go into the workshop of the dealer for what appeared to be a minor adjustment which turned out to be a serious build fault. Now it has to go back to the manufacturer for a six to eight week rebuild.... but they can't start before December. Gutted, to say the least.
@@kwackman they don't make them like they used to. I hope you get it sorted maybe push for compensation. I would
Sika flex is the dogs nuts.😊
Great video, Could you write all the steps in the description?
Hi Samuel, thanks for the comment.
Butyl non setting sealant is the only type of sealant that should be used on a caravan.
Sikaflex 522 is the only sealant I would use on a caravan.
Nice work, id of used body filler
White spirit would help removing old sealant. Not sure about meths.
sorry but I can't hear you which is a pity
Try switching the subtitles on.