excellently done! well thought out, researched, laid out, informative with great camera work and audio tutorial of what you're looking at, paying attention to, and what to look out for. Well done
You are wonderful mike. I have learned so much about my bike from you its unreal. I cant thank you enough for what you do. You are by far my favorite harley guy on the planet. Thanks again brother.
Your videos are great. I feel like you are the professor when you explain "how to". I have been able to do repairs with confidence after seeing how it's done. I have 2 shovelheads so you know I am always working on something. Your videos are far above some of the jacklegs on youtube. Keep it up and thanks for the help. I'll see you on the road.
Thank you mike for all your videos, I have learned to be a pretty good wrench because of your instruction. Top shelf all the way my friend. Keep them coming and I'll be leading people to your channel as I have done for years now.
I like your videos , I am presently restoring 73 Super Glide, your information helps me greatly. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with everyone. Melman !!
Excellent assembly job especially with all your little tips. Keep up the great videos Mike. I really look forward to them. I just called my son, and he is going to watch this later on today. Thank You.
This is where the internet has a real positive - a lifetime of knowledge and experience right here , free of charge really...absolutely priceless, Thanks Mike !
I'm glad. Are you sure you have no pressure or are you believing the indicator light? The way to tell if you have circulation is to visibly watch the oil return into the oil tank. I've also seen unnecessary work done because of junk oil gauges.
Hi Mike just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate you brother , thanks for all the great shovelhead videos and i look forward to seeing more i have 5 bikes all shovels , thanks again brother, see you out on the road lol Joe from Illinois
Good tutorial Mike. I changed the gaskets and springs in the oil pump on my Shovelhead, in the Philippines. No cell phones then, used the Harley Davidson Service manual.
I love the way you explain every little detail and I think of a dear old friend that has passed away Gary Woodford and he was a patient man like you and you remind me of him. You have no idea how much you have helped all of the new guys. I have done this for 52 years and I have learned many things from you to my friend. And I am with you on the fact that the hardest part of the oil pump is the key and clip in the cam chest. I have a little tool for that outside clip but I have fat fingers lol. MLLH&R
Love your way of showing these things. Specially your "... feeling really silly here..." (19:49) - well most people don't share that, but it makes it much more trustworthy. And thanks for showing us the fuzzle on the job - that's really helpful.
Damn, I'm learning so much from these videos. Planning to get me a Shovelhead for my 35th birthday this year, so I'm planning ahead. This guy is like the Bob Ross of mechanics, and I mean that in a good way. :D Easy for someone who doesn't speak English as their first like me to follow the pace of him explaning things.
@@pacificmike9501 That"s funny, Bob Ross of mechanics. I"ve been thinking that for a long time. Just not said it. Whenever I run into a problem with my shovel, I always refer to Pacific Mike, the Bob ross of Mechanics! There I said it! Hey thanks for being there for me Mike
@@pacificmike9501 but at the same time this is the heart of the machine. That brings a lifeblood to every internal part. Except for that pesky front rocker arm.. what's your fix on that mike?
I'm not even a motorcycle owner or fan and I'm watching these videos. I don't even know how to ride one! Good camera work...we can always see how something is done.
Great video. I've tried a lot of different ways to seal oil pump gaskets, currently have Hylomar on them, white litho grease seems like a great idea. On my kit the outer snap ring had no holes for a tool but it when on pretty easy working it around the groove with a pick. I would check to make sure there is no interference in the small recess of the outer cover with the larger snap ring.
Thanks for this video. Putting back together an oil pump from a 1974 FL. Parts manual exploded view shows the oil pump relief valve spring going in first with the piston on top.. Service manual shows the piston going in first with the spring on top.Your video shows putting the piston in first with the hole on top and the spring on top going into the hole. This was the only place I could find that info..Thank You Sure wouldn't want to screw this up.
Thank you for sharing. I hope that I can find a video of the oil pump hose routing sometime in the future. That's an issue I have with my 1980 Shovelhead
I have explained this one a lot. Looking at the pump, the line on the top outer fitting comes from the bottom of the tank. This is the feed line. The inner fitting on the top of the pump is the return line and it goes to the top of the tank at the base of the cap. The line from the crankcase close to the top of the pump (below the rear lifter block) is a breather hose going back to the top of the tank. There should be a tee in this line to go to the fitting in the middle of the inner primary housing. That skinny little line at the top of the oil pump feeds oil to the inner primary. On the inside lower rear corner of the primary is the return line from the inner primary, back to the crankcase fitting just just to the inside of the oil pump.
Hi Mike, I appreciate your videos and that you take your time and explain as you go. This video on assembling shovelhead oil pump caught my attention. Specifically, you commented that the oil pump check ball/spring will sometimes allow oil into the breather (especially if bike not ridden often enough). I have that exact issue and have not been able to understand WHY this happens OR what (if anything) can be done to solve the problem (other than ridding more often). Any comments appreciated. Thanks, Dave
This is an age old issue. It's called "gravity." The oil tank gravity feeds to the pump. It's up higher than the pump. That's a good thing. But, when it's not running, that would be a bad thing, so there is a "check ball" and a spring to keep that oil in the tank and not going into the crankcase. If the bike sitts too long, the oil slides, a little at a time into the crankcase. Then it passes out through the breather onto the floor. First suggestion: When your bike has been sitting too long, put a pan under the breather hose before you start it. Second: Keep clean oil in it so the ball seats better. Third: Ride your bike often. Thank you Dave. I hope that helps.
Mike I can't thank you enough for your videos. After an oil pump failure I had to rebuild my 77 FXE and they were super helpful. You are making archival quality material keep up the great work. If you could do a video on oil leaks that would be appreciated.
Also bought a 10 pack of that outer small c clip that shot off into no mans' land, lol. Used a small screwdriver to get it over the end of the shaft. Your video top shelf for us newbees.
Appreciate your motorcycles. Clean and cared for ! Wish I owned one ☝️ of them ! I own a 2010 fxdwg Thank you for your videos! Also wish we could ride!👍👌😎 I’m thinking any of your bikes would be in my living room ! Thank you friend stay safe!
Mike,you missed the most important part of the oil pump install. You did not check to see if the pump will turn without binding. You can torque all the fasteners to the proper torque value and the pump might not even turn. You check this by using your thumb to turn the pump gear that runs off of the pinion gear. Yes you do have to remove the pinion gear to do this procedure, but you also have to do this to be certain that the pump is not binding at any point of it’s rotation. If the pump is binding, you have to start by loosening a cover fastener and tightening maybe the one across from it or loosening one of the bottom fasteners and tightening one of the top fasteners. You have to work the fasteners around until the pump doesn’t bind. This can take some time to do, sometimes you swear the frign things out to get you. Lol. I hope this makes sense, I’m a Harley mechanic not a service manual writer. Great video and videos Mike ,you do a great job!
Dear Mike: There is a very old sealing compound called "Welseal", you may have heard of it? This compound sealer comes in a tube and lasts for ever. It was first used on old steam railway engines, many moons ago and has proved to be excellent for classic motorcycles over the years. Opening the tube, you will notice it has a low viscosity. Once opened it needs to be stood upright as it will run out of the tube all over the place. Now this is why its "SO good"! Once the faces are clean and dry, take a dribble on your finger which has a foreboding brownish colour. When you smear a thin layer with your fingertip onto the work peace, you'll know the correct amount because it will turn yellow on the work. This stuff is similar to the compounds use in factory made gaskets of all types. Very sticky to the touch, brown too thick, yellow just right. I know you will love it, great for holding gaskets in place and exultant for putting crank cases together.
Sounds great. Will the excess plug anything? Will it mix with oil? This is why I use white lithium on oil pumps. I gotta do more research. Again, sounds good and Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 Yes; I know what you mean, but this stuff is so thin, you can use an artist brush to apply it. It won't run as it drys very sticky, so great for both sides of the paper gasket. I will say, its nice to see you work with care and love of your engines.
I enjoyed your video too - as I'll likely be going into the pump this week. I've been trying to troubleshoot why my front cylinder is quiet on startup for 30 seconds - then starts making rocker tap noise - then completely goes away after 2 miles of riding and stays gone while engine is warm - with subsequent startups. I think I have checked all the usual suspects, rocker end play, clearance at the rocker box top, good hydraulic lifters etc. Screen is clean too. Had the head off 3 times... so was going to look at the pump next...
If the pump is circulating oil and it's returning to the tank, it sounds like a lifter problem. You know, when I say "It sounds like," I can't hear it. I'm having to go on what you tell me. If the sound goes away, let's think about it. Are the lifters positioned properly? Are the holes in the lifters pointing in, towards each other? Are all the passages clean from the cam cover, through the case, into the passages, to the lifter blocks, and then the lifters. Remember, the front exhaust lifter gets its oil last and due to the angle of the pushrod on the lifter, it is under the most strain. I hope this helps. I'll go into this more, if you need it.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the reply Mike. Oil pump is circulating... I have good flow back to the tank, and if I pull one of the rocker shaft end nuts, oil will flow out. I took care to be sure the lifters were properly positions... but I will pull the blocks and recheck, and look for obstructions... I did not use sealer on the block gaskets. I'm including a link with a video. ruclips.net/video/6qQr4DcHIuA/видео.html
@@pacificmike9501 well I hate to admit this but I've been at it 35 years and I'm still on the floor! 😂😂😂😂 I do have a nice lift I should have used it. I figured it would be a quick easy job. I'll get it done tomorrow one way or another. I appreciate all your great videos though thank you very much for all your time and effort that you put into them I learn a heck of a lot and most of all I learned patience!
I had to watch this, been there many times, fumbly little keys anyway. good for a laugh to me anyway, had the key drop out on the pinion end once, that was fun.
Re Duke baron I had a similar problem with the revtech oil pump dumping oil from the crank breather then realised I had no return to the oil tank I filled the return with oil it must have been air locked because it cured the problem hope this helps great video's I am a subscriber Griff 78 shovelhead
Thanks for sharing. Not enough info though. Air blocks can occur in a number of places. If the machine has not been started since being assembled, "bleeding" the pump is in order. This brings up, "what is the model and year?" If we're talking about a Shovelhead, what year? If we're talking about an Evo, where is the oil tank? If it's on the bottom, are we talking about a Dyna? Does it have the appropriate year motor in it. Top or bottom breather? I can learn from peoples's experiences too.
Hey Mike would it possible for you to make a video showing your methods when disassembling a bike to keep everything together and organized? What is your order of operations and anything you've found that helps over the years. Love your videos. Cheers
That's not a "one video" thing. Maybe we'll just talk about it. I took one apart and didn't put it together for about six years. ait came out of boxes in order and it's great. It can be done.
@@pacificmike9501 Understandable. I have a 80' fxs I inherited from my uncle. Your shovelhead videos have been extremely helpful and well put together and in doing so, have helped me get it running for a season of riding last year. It needs some tlc now though. What are some methods you use to keep everything ordered and together? Baggies? Boxes for each major component? Do you have a designated area in your shop for teardown parts? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Be sure to clean out the bolt holes well. When mine came back from the shop, the holes had powdered sand in them and they go through to the inside of the engine. Also, threads are 1/4-24, so they aren't commonly available nuts and bolts.
Gidday Mike great videos your doing. Im doing this job now on my oil pump. I was worried assembly lube may interfere with the check ball & seat?. but if you say so im doing it, Cheers.
Permatex Hi-Tack...spray on the gaskets...both sides...will hold the gaskets in place, and seal. On tightening the oil pump bolts to 50 Inch pounds...with the oil pump being 2 pieces with a shaft running through it, if you torque the bolts to 50 inch pounds,that'll hold the oil pump body together and to the crankcase BUT...the oil pump drive shaft may be bound up. The engine has so much power that if the shaft is bound up the Key on the drive shaft will Shear... rendering the oil pump useless and eventually your engine will seize. You won't have any indication the key has sheared unless you are monitoring an oil pressure gauge or oil pressure warning light. The Correct way to torque the oil pump bolts down is to Strip the Pinion Shaft of it's Drive Gear...this allows you to turn the Oil pump drive gear by hand as you torque the oil pump bolts securing the oil pump body. You'll be surprised how the gear will have resistance turning... perhaps a few times until you find the correct alignment wit the oil pump sections. Once the oil pump drive gear rotates Freely with the bolts correctly toqued... you're done. Re-install the Pinion Gear, Pinion Nut, torque to spec...and you've done! If you've ever heard someone say they blew an oil pump...it's cause the oil pump drive-shaft Key sheared. Now you know WHY...and how to eliminate that problem.
The ball in the pump holds the oil back into the tank. The spring that holds it is just strong enough to hold the ball on its seat when the bike is not running. The "plunger" or "piston" in the tower keeps the oil going up to the topend only. This keeps the pressure up and as soon as the motor warms up the piston moves and then half the oil goes to the topend and the other half circulates to the lower end. That's a quickie explanation. I don't know what year or model you have. But, with what I just said, read the explanation in the motor section of your Harley Davidson model correct service manual.
6:25 This must be the case for my recently acquired Shovelhead. Apparently it sat for many years before I got it. After running it for a minute, I'll find a huge pool of oil underneath it. Sometimes it will spew out only after I turn it off. This has been slowly subsiding with each passing day that I start it up and let it run for a minute or two. Need to open up the pump.
Not really. Just take out the plug in the top of the pump body, the one on the lower level, not the one at the top of the tower. Carefully remove the spring, then take out the ball with a long thin clean magnet. Now, you can either replace them or just clean them. Do not stretch the spring. Put them back in and run clean oil and a fresh oil filter. After a couple or three hundred miles, change the oil again. Clean oil does wonders. Remember, that oil was overflowing out of the crankcase breather because the crankcase was full. It shouldn't be when you run the engine often enough. But, be careful to not overfill. That oil will return to the tank.
The shaft that drives the pump gears, when installing the pump body.. is it not a good idea to lube the shaft to prevent it from possibly tearing the lip seal? Great channel by the way. Also it would be really cool if you could share with us some of your past, it appears that you are highly intelligent and must have spent alot of time in bike shop throughout your life. Wishing you a great day Mike. Thanks for the channel. Love it!
Mike, thanks for all the great videos, they're very helpful and appreciated. i am very close to finishing a fresh complete rebuild on my 82, what is the best way to prime the oil pump/oil system?
Enjoyed the video. Is there anyway you could cover adjustment and brakes shoe replacement on drum brakes in the future? Thanks again for the education that has paid off big time for me on my 56’ FLH.
Very Much enjoyed the entire video. Was very informative. Am working on a 1975 FLH Shovelhead and need to know the mounting bolt size and threads. Any info would be helpful.
LoL when you said check your gasket that brought back a bad memory I had with a s$s pump when they first came out I didn't make the rally that weekend I picked up the wrong gaskets if I remember right The stock pump inner gasket was wrong.
I try to push the fact that there are different models and different years and things just don't "interchange." What year is it? What Model is it? What brand is the part, if it's aftermarket? It really does take a lot of research to get it all right. It's a "Shovelhead," or "It's an Evo," doesn't tell nearly enough.
I thought you had to use cir-clip then a snap ring because of the housing body that can keep the snap ring lip from turning?.....great video by the way!!!
Mr Mike if you haven't already, can you do a video of the proper placement and orientation of the oil limes on a shovelhead motor. If you have done one can you list a link.
I think I've shown parts of it. Look at the playlists shown on our Yooutube home page. There is a playlist on the building of Shovelheads. Remember, the Shovelheads are not all the same. We're talking about '67 and later. I also describe some of them on our oil cooler video. Go to our RUclips home page and click on "videos." There's only about 110 of them.
Good info. Can you give me directions on removing a tapet screen ,slotted bolt removal. Mine is locked up. Don't want to use impact driver to remove .worried about cracking block.
First off, be cool. Not a block, it is a "case." Okay, now you're cool. I get it, not always easy. Sometimes, sou have to damage something to save something. Obviously, you can more easily replace the plug. That being said, very carefully, with a punch and hammer, you locate the punch at a low angle near the end of the slot and hit it with a hammer. I hate it, but it works. Don't miss. Again, VERY Carefully. The other solution is what's called a "Drag Link" tool. It's designed for suspension work on old cars. It's a blunt ended screwdriver, for a 3/8 drive. Tapping that thing loose with a hammer and punch is routine. I wish I could reach it from here. I'd be glad to.
Great video and thank you. I see some people use a silicone type product over many of the motor gaskets as a secondary sealant, I guess. Can white lithium be used on all gaskets instead of a silicone product? Thanks!
Thank you. The right product for the right place. When assembling and installing the oil pump, the fear of plugging anything in it is major. Going back and having to seal a leak later is not nearly as bad. The point here is to seal it without the risk of a malfunction.
Hi Mike Put this question in this video because its about the oil system. Front cylinder oil starvation, see this point mentioned several places, where people split the lines and have one line to each top. If the engine is properly maintained, is this a real issue and would you recommend doing it or just take care of the engine and the standard set up is sufficient? Again, thank you for the time you put into sharing your knowledge 👍
I've never had the problem. That line goes up and oils the rocker arms, and shafts, and the valve stems. They only need to be wet with oil. I've experienced too much flow to them.
Great video! I’ve found myself in the necessity of rebuilding the oil pump on a ‘76 basket case so this was helpful!...(2) questions, though... 1) Is the 3/8-24 plug that goes on the side of the oil pump magnetic?...I’ve found both thru the aftermarket...it appears that my original bolt MAY have been at one time by looking at the end of the bolt, but it’s no longer magnetic 2) I noticed you use a snap ring with holes on the pump end of the drive shaft...the Harley # for this piece is a snap ring with no holes...I assume the ring with the holes is an acceptable substitute?
I've never seen that plug with a magnet in it. It could have "become magnetic" by being stored in the same proximity as magnets. Next question is important. That snap ring with the holes in the ends does not belong at that end of the pump shaft. On some of the pumps, it will interchange. But, if the factory calls for a snap ring which has no holes, or eyes, that's what to use. In some pumps , there is a clearance issue in the cover. I always go back and check all of my work, and changed that snap ring because of limited clearance in the cover.
Pacific Mike Mike, I appreciate you replying...i just want to make sure I get this old Shovel back to the condition it should be in...with the limited resources and not many people working on the older bikes any longer, your knowledge and videos are a god-send...Thank you, sir!...
Hey, we all have "limited" resources. I appreciate your watching our videos, and I appreciate your effort to keep a cool old bike on the road. Thank you.
The feed gears are the same size as each other. The scavenge gears are the same size as each other. But, each one differs from the others, because two are idlers and two are driven.
I hope you can advise me as to what I should do with my new Rev-Tech pump for 81 and up. The bike is my late sons and once he passed away I wanted to finish his custom. It has a pan bottom with Delcron cases and the top end is a shovel. After all the money he had spent he used the old S&S pump but once the motor got heated up then the pressure would drop to like 3 lbs to 0. I installed a low 3 to 5 pound light on it and my best friend with me tagging behind to it for a 40+ mile ride. After we turned around he told me the light was on but once it got to 35 the light stayed out. But once we got back to the shop and it just at idle the light was on and no matter how much I revved it up it would no go off so we put back on the table so I could buy a new pump. I really wanted to buy an S&S but money was very tight and a few of the guys on the Shovelhead forum had the rev-tech and they were happy and it was less than half the price of an S&S so that is what I bought. After I installed it I had good pressure and it didn't drop all that low and was maybe around 30 lbs? The bike has not been back on the hwy with the new pump because of some health issues with my friend sad to say. All seemed to be fine with just some slumping of oil and I was told that was normal for these motors unless they were started more often and ridden so I could live with that even though I didn't like it all that much. But here is what happend next. I went to check the oil in the tank and there was none?? I called another friend that owns 3 pans + and evo and he told me the oil was bypassing the ball on the pump and he told me to remove the spring and the ball and use the old S&S ball and using a brass punch and a hammer then give the ball a few hits and then make sure all was clean and put the new ball back in and I then used I thnk the S&S spring because it was stronger and then added my 60 wt oil and fired it up and the pressure was like 40+ lbs so I thought it was good to go but boy was I wrong. He also told me the bike/motor/pump needs to be run on the hwy to brake in the new pump? Is he correct? If it set for 3 days or longer then it would slump at least a half qt or more before it would stop and I would say that is way too much for sure I think? I had a customer that is a bike builder come by to drop of his parts for me to powder coat and we walked over to the bike and I was telling him about it but when I checked the oil in the tank it was empty again sad to say. He told me that I should pull the pump and remove the spring and ball and using a pushrod and lapping compound then re-work the ball seat and that I could do but why in the hell do I need to do that with a new pump may I ask unless Rev-Tech didn't do a good job on making it? I do have the money now to buy a new S&S and they are from $288 to $332 but were more back in 2013 I think? What do you suggest I do??? Thanks and I hope I have given you all you need to know???
I couldn't say without looking everything over. Wet sumping usually improves with use and frequent oil changes. Cases and oil pumps have to be properly matched. I don't know which pump your case was intended to use. You call the cases Panhead cases. Or, are they generator shovelhead cases. Too much stuff put together without looking at it. I really try not to guess. I'm sorry.
@@pacificmike9501 Maybe I gave you to much info or to much to read? The bottom end is a pan but has new Delcron pan cases and it is the generator type but the top end is Shovel. It has S&S solid lifters and S&S adjustable pushrods. I had bought a new Rev-Tech oil pump and as I said before I had taken the ball a spring out of it and used a brass punch and the old S&S ball to re-work the seat and then I put the new ball back in along with the stronger spring that came out of the old S&S pump. I was told to try that because all the oil in my tank had drained into the cases and it has done the same thing again so that is why I am thinking of buying a new S&S one this time? A good biker friend of mine said the new pump needs to be broken in on the road and with any luck that might take care of this problem and that just bench running it will not work.
Yes, it could be done, but the risk of pushing the shaft in too far and losing the key off of the drive gear is too great. You need to back off the pushrods before before removing the cam cover. On an Evo, you hopefully have adjustable pushrods you can back off. If not, it's either a lengthy procedure, or you cut them out carefully with a bolt cutter and install adjustables. There are a couple of ways to do this. By now, most Evos have been fitted with adjustable pushrods. I hope this helps you.
Great video Mike. I have a 59 pan that sumps when sitting for a couple weeks and I bought a new check valve ball and spring and have been told to burnish the ball seat. I'd like to do this without removing the whole oil pump. Have you ever used one of the burnishing tools some guys sell and what do you thing of them? I don't want to use any kind of laping compound or polishing grit while the pump is on the motor. I havn't removed the old spring and ball yet so I don't know what the surface of the ball seat looks like. The brunishing tool is basically a 3/8 bal bearing silvered sodierd to a bolt.
Thanks Mike, yeah I don't ride it as much as I used to, I'll be 71 in a couple days but I ain't complaning, well not too much anyway lol. When I check out the seat I'll get a better idea and go from there. Keep up the great videos.
Yes, we got old, didn't we? If we can still kick 'em over. If we can still ride through the countryside. We're the "fortunate few" that made it this far. I'll make you a deal. I'll keep going if you will.
Time and place for everything. I don't agree. Some do some don't. I like things to go together well and come apart well. I like nice clean threads. Some things require threadlocker and, I believe, some things don't.
Hey mike, hope you still check these comments. I’m having some shovelhead problems that you may have an answer for. The issue is continuous large amounts of oil blowing out of the breather tube to road. I’ve already checked the ball and plunger on the oil pump and they seem clean but that’s as far as I’ve dug into it so far. Just ran across your page and figured I’d ask your thoughts. Thanks!
Has the bike been sitting a long time? If so, it will even out in the system and be fine. Is the oil dirty? If so, that ball in the oil pump can't seat and the oil will continue to "gravity flow" into the crankcase. Is the oil returning to the tank? You'll have to pull the oil tank cap and watch the oil flow. If not, the "scavenge" side of the pump is not functioning.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks mike, this is a new issue for this bike. I have quite a few miles on it recently and it’s a 1983 shovelhead, all stock spec components I believe. Had a long ride last weekend and then changed the oil and this problem starts. I’m kind of thinking the ball is the problem but I pulled it out and it didn’t look messed up. Oil is also returning to the tank with good pressure. I’m going to pull the oil pump to really get in and clean it.
I don't remove a pump if it's working properly. Did you put in a new spring ? Don't stretch it. Sometimes a couple of oil changes close together will do it. Might just be some debris in it.
@@pacificmike9501 appreciate the responses. Haven’t put a new spring or ball in yet, just cleaned it out the best I could. Seemed like oil kept running out of the pump with the check ball cap off. I have a aftermarket oil bag and it’s filled as high as I think it should be. Plenty of room for oil to return into the tank
Love your instructions and refer to them frequently. I have a question. The spacer between the worm gear and pinion gear. I have between a 16th and an 8th inch gap between the spacer and gears. Is that too much? Does the worm gear float back and fourth? My cam is flush with the front of the pinion gear and my pinion gear nut is already torqued. Thanks in advance.
The worm gear floats and "self centers." You're good there. As long as the cam has the proper endplay, you're good there. Next time, please tell me the year and model of the engine. Enjoy.
Hi Mike, great video. I'm installing a cast panhead oil pump on a pan that I'm rebuilding. The shaft spins freely in the bushing in the case, but when I install the pump body, the shaft will not spin freely. Just wondering if a suitable solution to this problem would be to lap or hone the assembly, then clean thoroughly and install?
Well, that sounds good, but I'd have to see and feel it to give you a useable answer. The body could have been warped from over tightening. Any damage could have occurred. This is time to get creative.
I found my new therapist. So satisfying watching and hearing this knowledgeable man. Thank you for making and posting these videos.
My pleasure!
Bob Ross of shovel heads. I like like it !!!
Thank you. Quite a compliment.
Happy little check ball.lol
Pacific Mike Much more mellifluous voice than Bob though
I say that! Hahahahha
@@pacificmike9501 Where just going to put a happy little oil pump right here lol
excellently done! well thought out, researched, laid out, informative with great camera work and audio tutorial of what you're looking at, paying attention to, and what to look out for. Well done
Thank You.
You are wonderful mike. I have learned so much about my bike from you its unreal. I cant thank you enough for what you do. You are by far my favorite harley guy on the planet. Thanks again brother.
Wow, thanks!
@@pacificmike9501 You are my favorite as well.
Your videos are great. I feel like you are the professor when you explain "how to". I have been able to do repairs with confidence after seeing how it's done. I have 2 shovelheads so you know I am always working on something. Your videos are far above some of the jacklegs on youtube. Keep it up and thanks for the help. I'll see you on the road.
Thank You.
Another great video with excellent camera work. The Lithium grease for holding the gaskets is a great tip. Thanks Mike!
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you mike for all your videos, I have learned to be a pretty good wrench because of your instruction. Top shelf all the way my friend. Keep them coming and I'll be leading people to your channel as I have done for years now.
Wow. Thank You.
A voice like John Wayne, and one of the coolest dudes.
Thank You
Thanks bud, appreciate guys like you that help us out
Our pleasure!
Excellent video !! Even my friends are catching on now !
Thank you and your friends. Much appreciated.
I like your videos , I am presently restoring 73 Super Glide, your information helps me greatly.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with everyone.
Melman !!
Thank you.
Excellent assembly job especially with all your little tips. Keep up the great videos Mike. I really look forward to them. I just called my son, and he is going to watch this later on today. Thank You.
Cool. Thank you.
Beautiful job as always! Thank you Mike
Thank you too!
The best motorcycle teacher ever!
Thank You.
There's no College or training school teach this kind of knowledge great job you guys
Thank You
This is where the internet has a real positive - a lifetime of knowledge and experience right here , free of charge really...absolutely priceless, Thanks Mike !
Thank You.
This is one of my favorite video's , great job.
Thank You.
Thanks! I am dealing with no oil pressure on my 78 FLH. I have already taken the pump off and this video really helps.
I'm glad. Are you sure you have no pressure or are you believing the indicator light? The way to tell if you have circulation is to visibly watch the oil return into the oil tank. I've also seen unnecessary work done because of junk oil gauges.
Mate many thanks for your instruction videos, I have an 1968 XLCH and relate to the maintenance. Keep them going sport, Brett in Tassie.
Thanks, will do!
Hi Mike just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate you brother , thanks for all the great shovelhead videos and i look forward to seeing more i have 5 bikes all shovels , thanks again brother, see you out on the road lol Joe from Illinois
Thank you. More to come. Shovels are great. But, I love 'em all. It's always fascinated me how different each one is from another.
Good tutorial Mike. I changed the gaskets and springs in the oil pump on my Shovelhead, in the Philippines. No cell phones then, used the Harley Davidson Service manual.
Works for me. Thank You.
I love the way you explain every little detail and I think of a dear old friend that has passed away Gary Woodford and he was a patient man like you and you remind me of him. You have no idea how much you have helped all of the new guys. I have done this for 52 years and I have learned many things from you to my friend. And I am with you on the fact that the hardest part of the oil pump is the key and clip in the cam chest. I have a little tool for that outside clip but I have fat fingers lol. MLLH&R
Okay, I have "old" fingers. Thank You. And I'm learning lots of stuff from lots of people. It ain't over 'til we say it's over.
Nice video Mike, great explanation for us mere mortals!
Keep it up
Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Love your way of showing these things. Specially your "... feeling really silly here..." (19:49) - well most people don't share that, but it makes it much more trustworthy. And thanks for showing us the fuzzle on the job - that's really helpful.
Thank You.
Damn, I'm learning so much from these videos. Planning to get me a Shovelhead for my 35th birthday this year, so I'm planning ahead. This guy is like the Bob Ross of mechanics, and I mean that in a good way. :D Easy for someone who doesn't speak English as their first like me to follow the pace of him explaning things.
We try to become better with our presentations. Thank you for the encouragement.
@@pacificmike9501 That"s funny, Bob Ross of mechanics. I"ve been thinking that for a long time. Just not said it. Whenever I run into a problem with my shovel, I always refer to Pacific Mike, the Bob ross of Mechanics! There I said it! Hey thanks for being there for me Mike
Fantastic video !!! Thanks Mike !!
Thank You. Glad you like it. We have something like about 115 videos on our RUclips Channel. More to come.
Some very good information on the shovel oil pump in this video. Thank-you !✌🌴☮
Thank you.
Dropping that "K" bomb... knowledge! It is ya friend exactly when ya own a classic motorcycle like this. Thank you for sharing it.
Thank You for watching.
Thanks Mike! Too me this is the most important part of any motor build!
It's all gotta work together.
@@pacificmike9501 but at the same time this is the heart of the machine. That brings a lifeblood to every internal part. Except for that pesky front rocker arm.. what's your fix on that mike?
What is the issue?
Well done Mike another great video. Excellent 😊
Glad you enjoyed it
I'm not even a motorcycle owner or fan and I'm watching these videos. I don't even know how to ride one! Good camera work...we can always see how something is done.
Wow. Thank You.
Great video. I've tried a lot of different ways to seal oil pump gaskets, currently have Hylomar on them, white litho grease seems like a great idea. On my kit the outer snap ring had no holes for a tool but it when on pretty easy working it around the groove with a pick. I would check to make sure there is no interference in the small recess of the outer cover with the larger snap ring.
Thank you, and good thinking.
Nice jobVery enjoyable to watch you work
Thank You.
thank you Mike 71 shovelhead build here
Cool.
Top notch job !
Thank You.
Exellent demonstration
Thank You.
Thanks for this video. Putting back together an oil pump from a 1974 FL. Parts manual exploded view shows the oil pump relief valve spring going in first with the piston on top.. Service manual shows the piston going in first with the spring on top.Your video shows putting the piston in first with the hole on top and the spring on top going into the hole.
This was the only place I could find that info..Thank You
Sure wouldn't want to screw this up.
I installed it properly. It's a little frightening that it would be shown any other way.
Thank you for sharing. I hope that I can find a video of the oil pump hose routing sometime in the future. That's an issue I have with my 1980 Shovelhead
I have explained this one a lot. Looking at the pump, the line on the top outer fitting comes from the bottom of the tank. This is the feed line. The inner fitting on the top of the pump is the return line and it goes to the top of the tank at the base of the cap. The line from the crankcase close to the top of the pump (below the rear lifter block) is a breather hose going back to the top of the tank. There should be a tee in this line to go to the fitting in the middle of the inner primary housing. That skinny little line at the top of the oil pump feeds oil to the inner primary. On the inside lower rear corner of the primary is the return line from the inner primary, back to the crankcase fitting just just to the inside of the oil pump.
Keep up the good work Mike
Thank You.
I hadn't any idea of the white lithium grease
Thank you for sharing
You are so welcome
The Bob Ross of Shovelhead maintenance. 👍
Thank You.
Hi Mike, I appreciate your videos and that you take your time and explain as you go. This video on assembling shovelhead oil pump caught my attention. Specifically, you commented that the oil pump check ball/spring will sometimes allow oil into the breather (especially if bike not ridden often enough). I have that exact issue and have not been able to understand WHY this happens OR what (if anything) can be done to solve the problem (other than ridding more often). Any comments appreciated. Thanks, Dave
This is an age old issue. It's called "gravity." The oil tank gravity feeds to the pump. It's up higher than the pump. That's a good thing. But, when it's not running, that would be a bad thing, so there is a "check ball" and a spring to keep that oil in the tank and not going into the crankcase. If the bike sitts too long, the oil slides, a little at a time into the crankcase. Then it passes out through the breather onto the floor. First suggestion: When your bike has been sitting too long, put a pan under the breather hose before you start it. Second: Keep clean oil in it so the ball seats better. Third: Ride your bike often. Thank you Dave. I hope that helps.
Mike I can't thank you enough for your videos. After an oil pump failure I had to rebuild my 77 FXE and they were super helpful. You are making archival quality material keep up the great work. If you could do a video on oil leaks that would be appreciated.
That would be a video on everything. It all leaks, unless you decide it's not going to.
Also bought a 10 pack of that outer small c clip that shot off into no mans' land, lol. Used a small screwdriver to get it over the end of the shaft. Your video top shelf for us newbees.
Thank You. We all start out the same you know.
Appreciate your motorcycles. Clean and cared for ! Wish I owned one ☝️ of them ! I own a 2010 fxdwg Thank you for your videos! Also wish we could ride!👍👌😎 I’m thinking any of your bikes would be in my living room ! Thank you friend stay safe!
Glad you like them! Thank You.
Nice job, very good!
Thank you very much!
Thats gotta be worthy of a like"n"share folks!. Great Job Mike.
Good job by the camera man as well.
Thank You.
Good stuff PM thanks
Glad you like it.
Your just cool Mike and as real as they come
Thank You. Just another guy doing what he does. I just try to present it the way I see it.
Mike,you missed the most important part of the oil pump install. You did not check to see if the pump will turn without binding. You can torque all the fasteners to the proper torque value and the pump might not even turn. You check this by using your thumb to turn the pump gear that runs off of the pinion gear. Yes you do have to remove the pinion gear to do this procedure, but you also have to do this to be certain that the pump is not binding at any point of it’s rotation. If the pump is binding, you have to start by loosening a cover fastener and tightening maybe the one across from it or loosening one of the bottom fasteners and tightening one of the top fasteners. You have to work the fasteners around until the pump doesn’t bind. This can take some time to do, sometimes you swear the frign things out to get you. Lol. I hope this makes sense, I’m a Harley mechanic not a service manual writer. Great video and videos Mike ,you do a great job!
Thank You
Great video. Good “Old School” teacher with a calm demeanor and lots of experience.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank You.
Hay man the Indian is back going thanks for all your videos……mark
Cool.
great video
Thank you. Glad you like it.
Very good video
Thanks
You remind me of bob ross mike. I could listen to you talk all day long man!
Thank You.
Dear Mike: There is a very old sealing compound called "Welseal", you may have heard of it? This compound sealer comes in a tube and lasts for ever.
It was first used on old steam railway engines, many moons ago and has proved to be excellent for classic motorcycles over the years.
Opening the tube, you will notice it has a low viscosity. Once opened it needs to be stood upright as it will run out of the tube all over the place.
Now this is why its "SO good"! Once the faces are clean and dry, take a dribble on your finger which has a foreboding brownish colour.
When you smear a thin layer with your fingertip onto the work peace, you'll know the correct amount because it will turn yellow on the work.
This stuff is similar to the compounds use in factory made gaskets of all types. Very sticky to the touch, brown too thick, yellow just right.
I know you will love it, great for holding gaskets in place and exultant for putting crank cases together.
Sounds great. Will the excess plug anything? Will it mix with oil? This is why I use white lithium on oil pumps. I gotta do more research. Again, sounds good and Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 Yes; I know what you mean, but this stuff is so thin, you can use an artist brush to apply it. It won't run as it drys very sticky, so great for both sides of the paper gasket. I will say, its nice to see you work with care and love of your engines.
nice video mike
Thank you.
That 2nd keys a pain.first one i did was still on the bike.lol what a night that was.
Do it a bunch of times. It gets easier.
I always put a little dab of White grease in the keyway to hold the key for assembly.
Yup. Works good.
I enjoyed your video too - as I'll likely be going into the pump this week. I've been trying to troubleshoot why my front cylinder is quiet on startup for 30 seconds - then starts making rocker tap noise - then completely goes away after 2 miles of riding and stays gone while engine is warm - with subsequent startups. I think I have checked all the usual suspects, rocker end play, clearance at the rocker box top, good hydraulic lifters etc. Screen is clean too. Had the head off 3 times... so was going to look at the pump next...
If the pump is circulating oil and it's returning to the tank, it sounds like a lifter problem. You know, when I say "It sounds like," I can't hear it. I'm having to go on what you tell me. If the sound goes away, let's think about it. Are the lifters positioned properly? Are the holes in the lifters pointing in, towards each other? Are all the passages clean from the cam cover, through the case, into the passages, to the lifter blocks, and then the lifters. Remember, the front exhaust lifter gets its oil last and due to the angle of the pushrod on the lifter, it is under the most strain. I hope this helps. I'll go into this more, if you need it.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for the reply Mike. Oil pump is circulating... I have good flow back to the tank, and if I pull one of the rocker shaft end nuts, oil will flow out. I took care to be sure the lifters were properly positions... but I will pull the blocks and recheck, and look for obstructions... I did not use sealer on the block gaskets. I'm including a link with a video.
ruclips.net/video/6qQr4DcHIuA/видео.html
Thanks pacific Mike.
Thank You.
I like to use 60w or 70w oil when assembling a motor. Seems to work pretty good.
It clings pretty well. Assembly lube is the same, only better.
I found using a magnet on the shaft to hold the key in place from the motor side helps.
Never tried that. Pretty cool.
This guy is shovelhead Bob Ross.
Thank You.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
You made that outer key look so easy to install. I'm trying to do it with it on the bike and it is a pain in the butt.
After you've done it a bunch of times? Nuthin to it. It helps to have the bike on a lift too.
@@pacificmike9501yes I suppose.. I'm doing it on the ground.
We all started there. It was tough. But then, when I started in a shop, there weren't any lifts yet.
@@pacificmike9501 well I hate to admit this but I've been at it 35 years and I'm still on the floor! 😂😂😂😂 I do have a nice lift I should have used it. I figured it would be a quick easy job. I'll get it done tomorrow one way or another. I appreciate all your great videos though thank you very much for all your time and effort that you put into them I learn a heck of a lot and most of all I learned patience!
I'm really glad if this stuff is useful. We all need to ride.
I had to watch this, been there many times, fumbly little keys anyway. good for a laugh to me anyway, had the key drop out on the pinion end once, that was fun.
Yep. Only those who've been there understand.
Re Duke baron I had a similar problem with the revtech oil pump dumping oil from the crank breather then realised I had no return to the oil tank I filled the return with oil it must have been air locked because it cured the problem hope this helps great video's I am a subscriber Griff 78 shovelhead
Thanks for sharing. Not enough info though. Air blocks can occur in a number of places. If the machine has not been started since being assembled, "bleeding" the pump is in order. This brings up, "what is the model and year?" If we're talking about a Shovelhead, what year? If we're talking about an Evo, where is the oil tank? If it's on the bottom, are we talking about a Dyna? Does it have the appropriate year motor in it. Top or bottom breather? I can learn from peoples's experiences too.
Thank you
Thank You.
Hey Mike would it possible for you to make a video showing your methods when disassembling a bike to keep everything together and organized? What is your order of operations and anything you've found that helps over the years. Love your videos. Cheers
That's not a "one video" thing. Maybe we'll just talk about it. I took one apart and didn't put it together for about six years. ait came out of boxes in order and it's great. It can be done.
@@pacificmike9501 Understandable. I have a 80' fxs I inherited from my uncle. Your shovelhead videos have been extremely helpful and well put together and in doing so, have helped me get it running for a season of riding last year. It needs some tlc now though. What are some methods you use to keep everything ordered and together? Baggies? Boxes for each major component? Do you have a designated area in your shop for teardown parts? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
thank you .
You are welcome!
Be sure to clean out the bolt holes well. When mine came back from the shop, the holes had powdered sand in them and they go through to the inside of the engine. Also, threads are 1/4-24, so they aren't commonly available nuts and bolts.
It depends on the years. No 1/4 x 24 after 1973. Oil pump should have come back to you clean.
Gidday Mike great videos your doing.
Im doing this job now on my oil pump.
I was worried assembly lube may interfere with the check ball & seat?.
but if you say so im doing it, Cheers.
Thank you. You should be fine.
Permatex Hi-Tack...spray on the gaskets...both sides...will hold the gaskets in place, and seal. On tightening the oil pump bolts to 50 Inch pounds...with the oil pump being 2 pieces with a shaft running through it, if you torque the bolts to 50 inch pounds,that'll hold the oil pump body together and to the crankcase BUT...the oil pump drive shaft may be bound up. The engine has so much power that if the shaft is bound up the Key on the drive shaft will Shear... rendering the oil pump useless and eventually your engine will seize. You won't have any indication the key has sheared unless you are monitoring an oil pressure gauge or oil pressure warning light. The Correct way to torque the oil pump bolts down is to Strip the Pinion Shaft of it's Drive Gear...this allows you to turn the Oil pump drive gear by hand as you torque the oil pump bolts securing the oil pump body. You'll be surprised how the gear will have resistance turning... perhaps a few times until you find the correct alignment wit the oil pump sections. Once the oil pump drive gear rotates Freely with the bolts correctly toqued... you're done. Re-install the Pinion Gear, Pinion Nut, torque to spec...and you've done! If you've ever heard someone say they blew an oil pump...it's cause the oil pump drive-shaft Key sheared. Now you know WHY...and how to eliminate that problem.
Wow.
Bob Ross of Harleys
Thank You
Mike can you also explain what the holes and plunges are for on the oil pump. And how they work.
The ball in the pump holds the oil back into the tank. The spring that holds it is just strong enough to hold the ball on its seat when the bike is not running. The "plunger" or "piston" in the tower keeps the oil going up to the topend only. This keeps the pressure up and as soon as the motor warms up the piston moves and then half the oil goes to the topend and the other half circulates to the lower end. That's a quickie explanation. I don't know what year or model you have. But, with what I just said, read the explanation in the motor section of your Harley Davidson model correct service manual.
you can use STP oil treatment it's cheaper than assembly lube
Personal preference is assembly lube.
6:25 This must be the case for my recently acquired Shovelhead. Apparently it sat for many years before I got it. After running it for a minute, I'll find a huge pool of oil underneath it. Sometimes it will spew out only after I turn it off. This has been slowly subsiding with each passing day that I start it up and let it run for a minute or two. Need to open up the pump.
Not really. Just take out the plug in the top of the pump body, the one on the lower level, not the one at the top of the tower. Carefully remove the spring, then take out the ball with a long thin clean magnet. Now, you can either replace them or just clean them. Do not stretch the spring. Put them back in and run clean oil and a fresh oil filter. After a couple or three hundred miles, change the oil again. Clean oil does wonders. Remember, that oil was overflowing out of the crankcase breather because the crankcase was full. It shouldn't be when you run the engine often enough. But, be careful to not overfill. That oil will return to the tank.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you very much, Mike. I was not expecting a response, let alone one so quickly. It is appreciated!
It is a standard happening, don't despair. If the bike sits too long, put a pan under it before starting.
The shaft that drives the pump gears, when installing the pump body.. is it not a good idea to lube the shaft to prevent it from possibly tearing the lip seal? Great channel by the way. Also it would be really cool if you could share with us some of your past, it appears that you are highly intelligent and must have spent alot of time in bike shop throughout your life.
Wishing you a great day Mike. Thanks for the channel. Love it!
Thank you. Yes, lube it with assembly lube.
Mike, thanks for all the great videos, they're very helpful and appreciated. i am very close to finishing a fresh complete rebuild on my 82, what is the best way to prime the oil pump/oil system?
Take the plugs out of the pump and put oil in it. The best thing is to crank it over and let the air out at the oil pressure sending unit.
Enjoyed the video. Is there anyway you could cover adjustment and brakes shoe replacement on drum brakes in the future? Thanks again for the education that has paid off big time for me on my 56’ FLH.
We've done it. It's in our videos. We'll do more of it on the Project Bike.
Your awesome! Do you have a video on the worm drive gear, or how much end to end play it should have?
It can only go so far. It finds it's happy place and you're good.
Very Much enjoyed the entire video. Was very informative. Am working on a 1975 FLH Shovelhead and need to know the mounting bolt size and threads. Any info would be helpful.
3/8 Fine. There are sets in the catalogs you can buy that are really nice. Use high quality stuff here.
LoL when you said check your gasket that brought back a bad memory I had with a s$s pump when they first came out I didn't make the rally that weekend I picked up the wrong gaskets if I remember right The stock pump inner gasket was wrong.
I try to push the fact that there are different models and different years and things just don't "interchange." What year is it? What Model is it? What brand is the part, if it's aftermarket? It really does take a lot of research to get it all right. It's a "Shovelhead," or "It's an Evo," doesn't tell nearly enough.
I thought you had to use cir-clip then a snap ring because of the housing body that can keep the snap ring lip from turning?.....great video by the way!!!
Thank You. I'm not sure of what the question is.
Mr Mike if you haven't already, can you do a video of the proper placement and orientation of the oil limes on a shovelhead motor. If you have done one can you list a link.
I think I've shown parts of it. Look at the playlists shown on our Yooutube home page. There is a playlist on the building of Shovelheads. Remember, the Shovelheads are not all the same. We're talking about '67 and later. I also describe some of them on our oil cooler video. Go to our RUclips home page and click on "videos." There's only about 110 of them.
Good info. Can you give me directions on removing a tapet screen ,slotted bolt removal. Mine is locked up. Don't want to use impact driver to remove .worried about cracking block.
First off, be cool. Not a block, it is a "case." Okay, now you're cool. I get it, not always easy. Sometimes, sou have to damage something to save something. Obviously, you can more easily replace the plug. That being said, very carefully, with a punch and hammer, you locate the punch at a low angle near the end of the slot and hit it with a hammer. I hate it, but it works. Don't miss. Again, VERY Carefully. The other solution is what's called a "Drag Link" tool. It's designed for suspension work on old cars. It's a blunt ended screwdriver, for a 3/8 drive. Tapping that thing loose with a hammer and punch is routine. I wish I could reach it from here. I'd be glad to.
Great video and thank you. I see some people use a silicone type product over many of the motor gaskets as a secondary sealant, I guess. Can white lithium be used on all gaskets instead of a silicone product? Thanks!
Thank you. The right product for the right place. When assembling and installing the oil pump, the fear of plugging anything in it is major. Going back and having to seal a leak later is not nearly as bad. The point here is to seal it without the risk of a malfunction.
Thanks Mike!
Hi Mike
Put this question in this video because its about the oil system.
Front cylinder oil starvation, see this point mentioned several places, where people split the lines and have one line to each top. If the engine is properly maintained, is this a real issue and would you recommend doing it or just take care of the engine and the standard set up is sufficient?
Again, thank you for the time you put into sharing your knowledge 👍
I've never had the problem. That line goes up and oils the rocker arms, and shafts, and the valve stems.
They only need to be wet with oil. I've experienced too much flow to them.
Great video! I’ve found myself in the necessity of rebuilding the oil pump on a ‘76 basket case so this was helpful!...(2) questions, though...
1) Is the 3/8-24 plug that goes on the side of the oil pump magnetic?...I’ve found both thru the aftermarket...it appears that my original bolt MAY have been at one time by looking at the end of the bolt, but it’s no longer magnetic
2) I noticed you use a snap ring with holes on the pump end of the drive shaft...the Harley # for this piece is a snap ring with no holes...I assume the ring with the holes is an acceptable substitute?
I've never seen that plug with a magnet in it. It could have "become magnetic" by being stored in the same proximity as magnets. Next question is important. That snap ring with the holes in the ends does not belong at that end of the pump shaft. On some of the pumps, it will interchange. But, if the factory calls for a snap ring which has no holes, or eyes, that's what to use. In some pumps , there is a clearance issue in the cover. I always go back and check all of my work, and changed that snap ring because of limited clearance in the cover.
Pacific Mike Mike, I appreciate you replying...i just want to make sure I get this old Shovel back to the condition it should be in...with the limited resources and not many people working on the older bikes any longer, your knowledge and videos are a god-send...Thank you, sir!...
Hey, we all have "limited" resources. I appreciate your watching our videos, and I appreciate your effort to keep a cool old bike on the road. Thank you.
Great help as always. Are both idler gears the same size? Thanks!
The feed gears are the same size as each other. The scavenge gears are the same size as each other. But, each one differs from the others, because two are idlers and two are driven.
wondering is the seal on gear shaft in body supposed to be tight? i noticed you had to hit body to get it on.
It works as a seal. So, yes, it is fairly tight.
I hope you can advise me as to what I should do with my new Rev-Tech pump for 81 and up. The bike is my late sons and once he passed away I wanted to finish his custom. It has a pan bottom with Delcron cases and the top end is a shovel. After all the money he had spent he used the old S&S pump but once the motor got heated up then the pressure would drop to like 3 lbs to 0. I installed a low 3 to 5 pound light on it and my best friend with me tagging behind to it for a 40+ mile ride. After we turned around he told me the light was on but once it got to 35 the light stayed out. But once we got back to the shop and it just at idle the light was on and no matter how much I revved it up it would no go off so we put back on the table so I could buy a new pump. I really wanted to buy an S&S but money was very tight and a few of the guys on the Shovelhead forum had the rev-tech and they were happy and it was less than half the price of an S&S so that is what I bought.
After I installed it I had good pressure and it didn't drop all that low and was maybe around 30 lbs? The bike has not been back on the hwy with the new pump because of some health issues with my friend sad to say. All seemed to be fine with just some slumping of oil and I was told that was normal for these motors unless they were started more often and ridden so I could live with that even though I didn't like it all that much.
But here is what happend next. I went to check the oil in the tank and there was none?? I called another friend that owns 3 pans + and evo and he told me the oil was bypassing the ball on the pump and he told me to remove the spring and the ball and use the old S&S ball and using a brass punch and a hammer then give the ball a few hits and then make sure all was clean and put the new ball back in and I then used I thnk the S&S spring because it was stronger and then added my 60 wt oil and fired it up and the pressure was like 40+ lbs so I thought it was good to go but boy was I wrong. He also told me the bike/motor/pump needs to be run on the hwy to brake in the new pump? Is he correct?
If it set for 3 days or longer then it would slump at least a half qt or more before it would stop and I would say that is way too much for sure I think? I had a customer that is a bike builder come by to drop of his parts for me to powder coat and we walked over to the bike and I was telling him about it but when I checked the oil in the tank it was empty again sad to say. He told me that I should pull the pump and remove the spring and ball and using a pushrod and lapping compound then re-work the ball seat and that I could do but why in the hell do I need to do that with a new pump may I ask unless Rev-Tech didn't do a good job on making it?
I do have the money now to buy a new S&S and they are from $288 to $332 but were more back in 2013 I think?
What do you suggest I do??? Thanks and I hope I have given you all you need to know???
I couldn't say without looking everything over. Wet sumping usually improves with use and frequent oil changes. Cases and oil pumps have to be properly matched. I don't know which pump your case was intended to use. You call the cases Panhead cases. Or, are they generator shovelhead cases. Too much stuff put together without looking at it. I really try not to guess. I'm sorry.
@@pacificmike9501 Maybe I gave you to much info or to much to read? The bottom end is a pan but has new Delcron pan cases and it is the generator type but the top end is Shovel. It has S&S solid lifters and S&S adjustable pushrods. I had bought a new Rev-Tech oil pump and as I said before I had taken the ball a spring out of it and used a brass punch and the old S&S ball to re-work the seat and then I put the new ball back in along with the stronger spring that came out of the old S&S pump. I was told to try that because all the oil in my tank had drained into the cases and it has done the same thing again so that is why I am thinking of buying a new S&S one this time? A good biker friend of mine said the new pump needs to be broken in on the road and with any luck that might take care of this problem and that just bench running it will not work.
Currently performing this same job on a 87 block head can this be done with the nose cone ( cam cover) on the engine?
Yes, it could be done, but the risk of pushing the shaft in too far and losing the key off of the drive gear is too great. You need to back off the pushrods before before removing the cam cover. On an Evo, you hopefully have adjustable pushrods you can back off. If not, it's either a lengthy procedure, or you cut them out carefully with a bolt cutter and install adjustables. There are a couple of ways to do this. By now, most Evos have been fitted with adjustable pushrods. I hope this helps you.
Great video Mike. I have a 59 pan that sumps when sitting for a couple weeks and I bought a new check valve ball and spring and have been told to burnish the ball seat. I'd like to do this without removing the whole oil pump. Have you ever used one of the burnishing tools some guys sell and what do you thing of them? I don't want to use any kind of laping compound or polishing grit while the pump is on the motor. I havn't removed the old spring and ball yet so I don't know what the surface of the ball seat looks like. The brunishing tool is basically a 3/8 bal bearing silvered sodierd to a bolt.
Thanks Mike, yeah I don't ride it as much as I used to, I'll be 71 in a couple days but I ain't complaning, well not too much anyway lol. When I check out the seat I'll get a better idea and go from there. Keep up the great videos.
Yes, we got old, didn't we? If we can still kick 'em over. If we can still ride through the countryside. We're the "fortunate few" that made it this far. I'll make you a deal. I'll keep going if you will.
Deal, it aint over till it's over :-)
I noticed you don’t use any lock tight on holding bolts, I’ve been told to use it on everything. Any advice on that Mike.
Time and place for everything. I don't agree. Some do some don't. I like things to go together well and come apart well. I like nice clean threads. Some things require threadlocker and, I believe, some things don't.
Hey mike, hope you still check these comments. I’m having some shovelhead problems that you may have an answer for. The issue is continuous large amounts of oil blowing out of the breather tube to road. I’ve already checked the ball and plunger on the oil pump and they seem clean but that’s as far as I’ve dug into it so far. Just ran across your page and figured I’d ask your thoughts. Thanks!
Has the bike been sitting a long time? If so, it will even out in the system and be fine. Is the oil dirty? If so, that ball in the oil pump can't seat and the oil will continue to "gravity flow" into the crankcase. Is the oil returning to the tank? You'll have to pull the oil tank cap and watch the oil flow. If not, the "scavenge" side of the pump is not functioning.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks mike, this is a new issue for this bike. I have quite a few miles on it recently and it’s a 1983 shovelhead, all stock spec components I believe. Had a long ride last weekend and then changed the oil and this problem starts. I’m kind of thinking the ball is the problem but I pulled it out and it didn’t look messed up. Oil is also returning to the tank with good pressure. I’m going to pull the oil pump to really get in and clean it.
I don't remove a pump if it's working properly. Did you put in a new spring ? Don't stretch it. Sometimes a couple of oil changes close together will do it. Might just be some debris in it.
@@pacificmike9501 appreciate the responses. Haven’t put a new spring or ball in yet, just cleaned it out the best I could. Seemed like oil kept running out of the pump with the check ball cap off. I have a aftermarket oil bag and it’s filled as high as I think it should be. Plenty of room for oil to return into the tank
Love your instructions and refer to them frequently. I have a question. The spacer between the worm gear and pinion gear. I have between a 16th and an 8th inch gap between the spacer and gears. Is that too much? Does the worm gear float back and fourth? My cam is flush with the front of the pinion gear and my pinion gear nut is already torqued. Thanks in advance.
The worm gear floats and "self centers." You're good there. As long as the cam has the proper endplay, you're good there. Next time, please tell me the year and model of the engine. Enjoy.
@@pacificmike9501 awesome thanks. You are awesome to watch as well. Sorry it's a 76 74" shovelhead.
Hi Mike, great video. I'm installing a cast panhead oil pump on a pan that I'm rebuilding. The shaft spins freely in the bushing in the case, but when I install the pump body, the shaft will not spin freely. Just wondering if a suitable solution to this problem would be to lap or hone the assembly, then clean thoroughly and install?
Well, that sounds good, but I'd have to see and feel it to give you a useable answer. The body could have been warped from over tightening. Any damage could have occurred. This is time to get creative.
Thank you!
Just did my 82 today...in the bike...not so easy lol
Cool.