You'd need the torque - RPM curve on a sheet. How much rotational force can the motor generate at what RPM. Manufacturers should supply these data sheets. I don't know the model though. Probably lots of info to be found on forums though.
Not all types of stainless steel are non-magnetic; 430/416 Stainless is, whereas 303 typically is not. So the best thing to do when getting washers for this is to take a small magnet with you and check.
So I got a MotoEnergy motor that has a similar bolt hole layout on the face... I'm in the process of planning for a mount plate build and found your video(s) awesome... been following all! Question for ya though, I notice just like on mine there's a 4.5" (roughly) circle where the face of the motor enclosure on the shaft side is raised about 1/8" above the rest of the plate. It didn't look like you accounted for that when you cut out the mounting plate... did you notice it gave/bent at all after giving it some torque? Or did you accommodate for that gap with spacers or something? - hope what i'm asking makes sense! :)
Building an electric Trike would be more like building a motorcycle than building a car. You would want to use a larger motor and battery than a motorcycle, but other than that, the only real difference would be an axle with differential. I've seen trikes done with small pickup truck rear axles with the motor mounted directly to the differentials. For some more ideas, visit the EV Album. www.evalbum.com Use the search feature and type in TRIKE.
Ben, I find the diameter of the threaded rod a little bit too...just the right size. As an engineer I am prone to oversize my designs. Maybe someone who actually decides to build, will want to use larger rods, something I´d strongly suggest, because of the dynamic stress distribution and the levels they´re subject to. I come from 15 years of experience in oil industry, so...you can listen to what I say regarding this stuff. LOL.
Hi Jose, I didn't specifically do any particular engineering for the size of the hardware, but just essentially matched it up more or less with whatever was already there. Never had any issues with the mounts or anything else. Of course, it's pretty easy to to move everything up one size if that makes a person more confident. It would add minimal weight and cost to the project.
I am sure the aluminum plate he used was low grade stuff, but is good enough for this application. The higher strength aluminum is very hard and requires very sharp tools with coolant to cut it.
There's not really that much to protect. The motor is essentially a "salad spinner". Any water that would get in just gets spun out. Motor controllers are internally sealed. In general, use nice clean electrical connections. Use heat shrink. Put rubber boots over power terminals. Use stainless fasteners (so they don't rust.) That's about it. I've never had any issues with water or weather.
Yeah, but you gotta go out of your way to find them. Most standard stainless steel is non-magnetic. You are right though, saying all stainless steel is non-magnetic is not correct.
For high-speed and high-performance, you will want a pretty good motor. Most likely, you would want to go with a 3 phase AC motor. Take a look at motorcycles on the EV Album to get ideas. www.evalbum.com/type/MTCY Go with as high voltage as you can for low current draw and maximum speed. Motenergy motors have been pretty popular for motorcycles, but for a larger bike, you could do something from the HPEVS AC family of motors, such as these:www.hpevs.com/hpevs-ac-electric-motors-for-motorcycles.htm
I didn't use lithium batteries because I built this motorcycle in 2007. Lithium batteries would have cost about $10,000 at the time. I've used lithium on later projects, such as the Vectrix. ruclips.net/video/jfhf1NQobWY/видео.html
The spacing between the rotor and stator in this motor is almost EXACLTY the thickness of the washers I had been using. You do NOT want to have to take a permanent magnet motor apart to get a washer out! That was a HUGE pain! Not only are stainless steel components more appropriate for use in a vehicle, but they are non-magnetic as well.
You should be on How it's made. All info, no opinion, just experience.
You are the GOAT
the kinda guy that just has a sharpie in the pocket.
Oh this is very cool! Not a motorcycle guy but this is pretty neat.
Give me specifications of dc motor
You'd need the torque - RPM curve on a sheet. How much rotational force can the motor generate at what RPM. Manufacturers should supply these data sheets.
I don't know the model though. Probably lots of info to be found on forums though.
+sunil d naidu ~ how bout you do some of you're own research you lazy fook.
Etek electric motor by Briggs & Stratton.
Brass or bronze washers are also not magnetic, but you'd need heavier ones. Stainless Steel should be easy t get though.
Not all types of stainless steel are non-magnetic; 430/416 Stainless is, whereas 303 typically is not. So the best thing to do when getting washers for this is to take a small magnet with you and check.
Just wondering why you didn't use locking nuts on the mounting plates?
So I got a MotoEnergy motor that has a similar bolt hole layout on the face... I'm in the process of planning for a mount plate build and found your video(s) awesome... been following all! Question for ya though, I notice just like on mine there's a 4.5" (roughly) circle where the face of the motor enclosure on the shaft side is raised about 1/8" above the rest of the plate. It didn't look like you accounted for that when you cut out the mounting plate... did you notice it gave/bent at all after giving it some torque? Or did you accommodate for that gap with spacers or something? - hope what i'm asking makes sense! :)
Would converting a trike to electrike (haha) be more like this or like converting a car?
Building an electric Trike would be more like building a motorcycle than building a car. You would want to use a larger motor and battery than a motorcycle, but other than that, the only real difference would be an axle with differential. I've seen trikes done with small pickup truck rear axles with the motor mounted directly to the differentials. For some more ideas, visit the EV Album. www.evalbum.com Use the search feature and type in TRIKE.
Thanks so much buddy.
Felicitaciones excelente trabajo
Donde puedo comprar el kit
Para honda magna 1983 1100 drive shaft
Tienes que fabricarlo. Pon la traducción automática. Motor y baterías, todo lo compras por separado, según entiendo.
Ben, I find the diameter of the threaded rod a little bit too...just the right size. As an engineer I am prone to oversize my designs. Maybe someone who actually decides to build, will want to use larger rods, something I´d strongly suggest, because of the dynamic stress distribution and the levels they´re subject to. I come from 15 years of experience in oil industry, so...you can listen to what I say regarding this stuff. LOL.
Hi Jose,
I didn't specifically do any particular engineering for the size of the hardware, but just essentially matched it up more or less with whatever was already there.
Never had any issues with the mounts or anything else. Of course, it's pretty easy to to move everything up one size if that makes a person more confident. It would add minimal weight and cost to the project.
Hi Nelson
, Really great, can you please tell me what is the each optima battery volts/amps, seem like used there 2 battery
Nice!, thanks for the tips.
I am sure the aluminum plate he used was low grade stuff, but is good enough for this application. The higher strength aluminum is very hard and requires very sharp tools with coolant to cut it.
i think you have wrong steels in mind!! the highest grade aluminum can be cut with wood working tools!! i do lots and lots of steel and aluminum work!
@@budsbustbi6339 You obviously know nothing about high strength aluminum.
@@baddoggie101 ok!!! thats what i do for a liveing but ok!! you think what you want!! lol so so funny
How do you protect the motorcycle and electronics from water?
There's not really that much to protect.
The motor is essentially a "salad spinner". Any water that would get in just gets spun out.
Motor controllers are internally sealed.
In general, use nice clean electrical connections. Use heat shrink. Put rubber boots over power terminals. Use stainless fasteners (so they don't rust.)
That's about it. I've never had any issues with water or weather.
@@BenjaminNelsonX how about the battery and the controller?
@@BenjaminNelsonX well let’s say you are making it for off-road use and you drive it into a swamp with water if you do all that will it still run
If you do it right, brazing can be just as strong or even stronger than welding, and it's much easier.
Certain types of stainless steel are magnetic.
Yeah, but you gotta go out of your way to find them. Most standard stainless steel is non-magnetic.
You are right though, saying all stainless steel is non-magnetic is not correct.
WHAT MOTOR DID YOU USE , BRAND , SIZE , SUPPLIER ? IF ANYONE KNOWS , PLEASE ENLIGHTEN ME THANKS TO ALL .
Briggs & Stratton Etek motor, rated at 150 amps continuous, and rates as a 8 - 12 HP
i want to get tis bike
please
Ben what motor would be good for a 85 MPH road bike, I do have a BMW 1200 GT with a bad motor and after seeing this I guess that would be my best bet.
For high-speed and high-performance, you will want a pretty good motor. Most likely, you would want to go with a 3 phase AC motor. Take a look at motorcycles on the EV Album to get ideas. www.evalbum.com/type/MTCY
Go with as high voltage as you can for low current draw and maximum speed. Motenergy motors have been pretty popular for motorcycles, but for a larger bike, you could do something from the HPEVS AC family of motors, such as these:www.hpevs.com/hpevs-ac-electric-motors-for-motorcycles.htm
Little Ceaser sponsored
If any pizza company wants to send me pizza, I will gladly accept.
Why not use lithium batteries. I have 24 volt 300 ah batteries.
I didn't use lithium batteries because I built this motorcycle in 2007. Lithium batteries would have cost about $10,000 at the time.
I've used lithium on later projects, such as the Vectrix. ruclips.net/video/jfhf1NQobWY/видео.html
You know wayy too much. Merci
8:13 :))
The spacing between the rotor and stator in this motor is almost EXACLTY the thickness of the washers I had been using. You do NOT want to have to take a permanent magnet motor apart to get a washer out! That was a HUGE pain!
Not only are stainless steel components more appropriate for use in a vehicle, but they are non-magnetic as well.
ماشاء الله
VERY NICE GOOD
الحمد لله رب العالمين
Probably easier to do this in Fusion360 with some photographs nowadays.