I made my own 3D-printed Carbon Fiber NACA Ducts!
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- I love learning something new! Thanks to you*, my viewers, I discovered a new 3D printer filament that has changed my world: carbon fiber infused nylon. Some call it "black aluminum" due to its aluminum-like qualities. It's light, strong, flexible and can withstand sustained heat up to ~370-degrees F before it starts to deform. With this discovery, I decided to make my *own 3.5-inch NACA ducts for my intake system so that I can do a complete 3.5-inch intake setup from throttle bodies all the way to and through the NACA ducts! This and lots more on episode-30. Enjoy!
**UPDATE**. If you're interested in the NACA CAD (Fusion360) file I used in this video, I uploaded it to GrabCAD at this link: grabcad.com/li...
Hey Dan. Always very excited when you do another upload. Love the attention to detail
Brilliant work again, always look forward to your episodes.
Always look forward to your uploads! Really enjoying this build and seeing your processes. Thanks Dan, keep up the good work.
The finished car will be spectacular. Still, I'm not looking forward to that, since I never want the episodes to end. Great work!
Another great video. The fabrication work is so impressive.
Thanks Brian! 🙏
Simply stunning. Appreciate all the hard work. Keep up the great work.
JB Weld.. best stuff ever!
Great job Dan. Your attention to detail is off the charts!
I put 4 NACA ducts in the hood of my Pantera a few years ago, they really are a great way to direct air to were you need it. I just bought them from
an airplane parts warehouse. Not even close to as cool as your 3D printed parts. Again, great job!
Thanks for the kind words! And to think that 3D printer filament is only going to get better makes me super excited as to the possibilities....
On the filter canister I would clear coat the 3D printed portion and polish the clamps ? You hot rod is coming together really well. Happy New Year to you and yours. Going to a Maine in January to get some electrical gremlins fixed,
I really ENJOYYYY All your Blogs Dan thank you so much can’t wait to see this finished BADASS ULTIMA EVOLUTION in the planet 💥💥💥💥💥🚀
Glad you enjoy it! Thanks for you kind words Raymund and Happy New Year!
Looking good Dan.
Only just found this build series a couple days ago. Looking forward to seeing the end result. Looks good
Love this build, Happy Christmas Dan !
Happy holidays!
Turned out great!
This is the sort of job I get right into in my garage whilst simultaneously wondering if there is a point to doing it 😂
Great Dan! Merry Christmas & Happy New Year from Italy!!!
Thank you Staffa-and you too! 🎉
Awesome work man. Keep it up!
If you need to get rid of the old ducts u can send them to me 😂 I need brake cooling ducts for my truck
Just a heads up that MAF tube you removed had a screen in it to provide laminar flow for better readings. It's a massive debate whether they need it or not but if you start having tuning issues it may be a place to look at.
Hi Al-yep, that’s right. I have found that the farther away the MAF sensor is located from turbulent air, the less likely you need an air straightener. On the original MAF housing, it’s a short run (assuming the air filter is mounted directly on the end of it-not so in my case), but in that situation, an air screen is highly advised. But given location of my MAF sensors in the intake tract, there’s close to two feet between the MAF sensor(s) and the NACA opening where turbulent air enters-with air boxes in between to help with laminar air flow. So net/net, I don’t think I’ll need the screens but I did remove them from the original hosings so I can reuse them if it turns into a problem. Thanks for your heads-up guidance!
I'd suggest drying out the CF Nylon and keep it in a dry box during printing through the use of a reverse Bowden setup on the Prusa I3MK3
You can use a couple of dabs of superglue to hold items like the MAF sensor mounts to the pipe for welding, don’t use to much and try and keep it from the weld area, makes positioning and fitting easier 👍
Ha ha. Keeps me guessing for sure. 😂. But it’s all good. 👍
That’s a good tip-especially in cases where you can’t get a clamp to hold. 👌
Might as well get it right now, for sure! Those printed ducts turned out really nice. The little self-tapping screws on the air filter cans scare me for longevity, though. I wonder if you could get heatset threaded inserts into that plastic and use proper screws?
Love this idea. You’re right, those tiny self tappers will strip over time.
Hello dan. Congratulations on the assembly of the -top gun-, good quality, good video montage, it's a pleasure to watch your videos. Could you comment on the settings you have in the welding machine? The welds fit very well. Thank you.
Hi Roma-thanks for the comments. Welding is just a hobby when it’s needed and I have no formal training. But I do enjoy it and I’m slowly getting better. I think my TIG settings for welding those parts were pretty simple: 92amps (at full pedal), 15 cfh of argon, 120hz, 60/40 balance, and 1/16” filler rod-which is key for small aluminum parts like this. Pre and post flow time on gas isn’t really matter on aluminum. Hope this helps!
@@DanDulac thanks a lot for a fast and complete answer. Stay tuned 👍👍
Nice job Dan!
What brand is the EPS?
Love the soupnazi plate 😂
The EPAS systems is made my DC Electronics and called microsteer. It’s the smallest unit I could find. I can’t wait to see how it feels on the street!
I suggested before that you bin those filter canisters and make a square shaped box to fit under the duct that you can close the hood down onto with a flexible seal .
If you do that you will kill several birds with one stone.
First you’ll be able to use a much larger and less restrictive filter.
Second you’ll be able to fit water baffles and drains
Third it will look neater eliminating all the silicon with no need for any flexible hoses
Fourth changing the filters will require little effort.
That’s awesome great video 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Big fan of the hard piping upgrade. Build like this deserves the least amount of silicon in the intake as possible.
I couldn’t agree more! 👍
Good job Dan! You're real inspiration. One question plese. How you're going to stop the water to get inhaled in the engine if you see rain till driving?
Great question! The exit of the air boxes will be the lowest point and I plan on installing duckbill drains in the ducting. 👍
Damn Daniel!
Seems like you would be better keeping the intake tube reflective for the heat that is going to end up at the top of the engine, black wrinkle coat seams like it would become a heat soak? Although I can appreciate how you want it to look OEM
Wish someone made these to make the evo 4-7 ducts functional
With the screen you put on the duct, is that not reducing the intake path down from 3.5 inch?
Clearly more air can pass without the screen…but given the air velocity will be at its highest at that point, it should compensate for the slightly reduced volume induced by the debris screen. I’ll know for sure once I get it on the dyno. 👍
Will there be enough flex in the intake to allow you to open the clam or will you need to detach it before you open it?
I think I have an idea to connect the NACAs to the air boxes...that would provide easy opening of the clam without binding the intake system. But I won't know for sure until I get the rear clam back on the car and get the NACAs glassed in. Stay tuned!
@@DanDulac have you thought of a more rigid solution where the tubing of the naca ducts slide inside the tubing attached to the intake system? Not sure if a perfectly sealed system is required, just a thought. Love the videos by the way! Really great work!!
Would it have not just as been as good to create both ends of the air filter than bonding the tube to the other end?
Funny you say that...in the end, this is exactly what I did...You'll see the result in the next vid. :-)
😎👌
What about a mafless tune and ditch the airflow meters all together??
‘Alpha-N’ type tunes are really a patch where you cannot run a MAF, using a MAF and MAP gives you the most data to fine tune and improve transient state throttle response and part throttle running, ‘Alpha-N’ tunes only really work ok in full throttle, racing type scenarios where you don’t care about low rpm, small throttle openings etc and where you don’t have an option to run a MAF.
I considered this but since I'll keep the engine naturally aspirated with no plans of forced induction, the OEM ECUs will be fine. Plus this saves me lots of $$ to re-use the factory computers (but with upgraded tune).
90mm AEM 9" body 21-2049BF
6:34 those are not self tapping screws, pretty sure they are designed differently
Can you share your 3D print and Fusion files with the community? I think that everyone would really appreciate it do ability to replicate your success.
Great idea...I posted the Fusion file along with a couple images up on GrabCAD.com...Link in description of this video. :-)
We're very interested in your channel!We has a brand new wall-mounted pressure washer to be released. We are thinking if we could have a chance to collaborate to this new product.Hope get your reply!
i lost count on him saying NACA duct. at least 100 times
why did you waste all that time with that plastic cap on the lathe, why didn't you just 3D print one with your nylon carbon filament?
Ha ha. I wondered if someone would ask this as I was thinking the same thing as I was producing this video. I customized those caps *before* I learned about the CF Nylon filament. In fact, I decided to ditch those caps and 3D print a set to use instead-you’ll see them in the next vid. 👍