you installed trim to replace the rotten mushy wood. Why did the wood go mushy? ... perhaps there was no WRB nor flashing installed? So the rain got it it? So are you gonna install flashing or WRB or sealant under the trim? I'd suggest using Liquid Flash for more versatility.. to protect the framing.. or else you';ll just get mush again as water gets back, again, behind the new trim.
The great thing about color plus is that they paint all six sides. I’ve only met one contractor who bothers to do that. He generally puts some type of sealer, shellac I think,and then the primer, cuts, seals the cut, install and paints.
Why not use a better caulking? That stuff is a cheaper, fast dry, good only for interior I say. Even then use the shermax when you can. OSI quad or quad max is a popular one for hardie.
Using a 16g. finish nailer is the recommended tool and you wouldn’t have to go back with a hammer to finish driving the nails like you did. Also a Hardie saw blade makes a huge difference on dust, and attaching a vacuum makes it barely noticeable.
Should predrilled and hand drive the nails imo. Almost every type of nail causes a blowout on the back of the board. Dont believe me take one down and look ar the back.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog that's not the point of flashing. Your door is set on what looks like your deck . Your deck looked wet in tbe picture . So it's going to soak it up. The trim does not need to be water proof the point of trim is to divert bulk water from the frame of the house which you saw it wasn't doing You didn't seem to have gutters on your over hang in the beginning of the video. I'd first get out in the next rain storm and get all that bulk water from roofs and road ways away from the house. Next you some how have to air gap or make sure water doesn't get saturated near the foundation of that door. You might want to take a look into liquid flashings. But please post pictures of your porch area and I could see how you could reduce this
@@TheCraftsmanBlog also make sure you buy paint that i Has a high perm rating Benjamin Moore's exterior paints I believe are super high. No oil based paints
Actually there are gutters on the house and an awning above this section. The door is seated above the deck actually though only minimally, but it doesn’t rest on directly on the deck.
This is NOT the correct or "Best Practice" for repairing rotten wood. Especially your structural support for your door. You should have removed the door, completely replaced all of the rotten boards with pressure treated or marine grade boards. Then applied water proofing membrane and reinstalled the door before replacing the trim. This trim product should never be installed so it's in contact with standing water.
3.5 minutes into a 7 minute "install" do you finally get to installing a board...over 50%of your video is preparing rotted wood for installing trim. you need to retitle this video. this is why so much of the stuff on youtube is often a waste of time. you don't even cover the manufacturer points for installation.
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Hardie siding installed in 1999 still looks great, paint has held up for 24 years so far
Only if your house is not directly under the sun because mine has front and back with paint fading while the sides look new after 10 years
Very nice video tutorial, thanks for sharing!!!
you installed trim to replace the rotten mushy wood. Why did the wood go mushy? ... perhaps there was no WRB nor flashing installed? So the rain got it it? So are you gonna install flashing or WRB or sealant under the trim? I'd suggest using Liquid Flash for more versatility.. to protect the framing.. or else you';ll just get mush again as water gets back, again, behind the new trim.
I love seeing the whole process and what stuff you used. I've got some cedar trim around my windows that's needs some love, I think it's time!
Cedar is a great wood too, but sometimes the conditions on site just don’t give any wood a chance!
@@TheCraftsmanBlog ya, everything goes eventually, it's all about maintenance!!
The great thing about color plus is that they paint all six sides. I’ve only met one contractor who bothers to do that. He generally puts some type of sealer, shellac I think,and then the primer, cuts, seals the cut, install and paints.
Why not use a better caulking? That stuff is a cheaper, fast dry, good only for interior I say. Even then use the shermax when you can. OSI quad or quad max is a popular one for hardie.
what length of the 15GA nail did you use?
Using a 16g. finish nailer is the recommended tool and you wouldn’t have to go back with a hammer to finish driving the nails like you did. Also a Hardie saw blade makes a huge difference on dust, and attaching a vacuum makes it barely noticeable.
Agreed! All best practices.
So a siding nailer for the planks, and a 16 ga. nailer for the trim?? damn
Tried a 16 inch finish cordless nailer did not make it through the 1 inch thick trim , what nailer you are using ?
@@MrLogo79 the Hitachi angle style trim nailer used to work good on hardi, the one with the angled magazine/nail racks
Nice tool belt. Looks new.
It is fairly new. Takes a while to properly break in a good belt!
Nice caulk job bro.
Use a peel/stick membrane before installing the trim
Thanks this was really helpful!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for this! Did you use or do you recommend Bora-Care or Bora-Care w/Mold Care?
I’ve been using the Mold care since it’s about the same price and seems like it provides better protection.
I can't get a single one of my air nail guns to go through this material. Any suggestions on why?
Not really sure. I’ve never had an issue with Ryobi, Milwaukee or Ridgid nailers.
My metabo 15 gauge has no problem at all. Sinks to whatever depth I like. Having a good compressor with consistent pressure is the key for me.
how'd it go?
Cement board shouldn't have ground contact with water... You might have been better off with a PVC trim board. Has it had any rot since 2018?
No rot and no ground contact. It’s on a sub sill.
If you don't seal the end gran of the wood it will soak up water like a spunge and rot again use roofing tar or something.
The wood consolidant seals the wood and the BoraCare remediates the fungus and prevents future rot.
Why do you tap every nail?
What epoxy did you use to repair the frame damage?
I used Abatron WoodEpox for the repair. The link is in the description
Why didn’t you repair the rot properly ?
Should predrilled and hand drive the nails imo. Almost every type of nail causes a blowout on the back of the board. Dont believe me take one down and look ar the back.
What difference would that make? If it’s pressed hard against the structural board why would it matter?
you have no flashing, and no water diversion. some how its wicking up too. so you'll be back
What flashing do you typically apply to door trim?
@@TheCraftsmanBlog that's not the point of flashing.
Your door is set on what looks like your deck . Your deck looked wet in tbe picture . So it's going to soak it up. The trim does not need to be water proof the point of trim is to divert bulk water from the frame of the house which you saw it wasn't doing
You didn't seem to have gutters on your over hang in the beginning of the video. I'd first get out in the next rain storm and get all that bulk water from roofs and road ways away from the house.
Next you some how have to air gap or make sure water doesn't get saturated near the foundation of that door.
You might want to take a look into liquid flashings.
But please post pictures of your porch area and I could see how you could reduce this
@@TheCraftsmanBlog also make sure you buy paint that i
Has a high perm rating
Benjamin Moore's exterior paints I believe are super high.
No oil based paints
Actually there are gutters on the house and an awning above this section. The door is seated above the deck actually though only minimally, but it doesn’t rest on directly on the deck.
You still have to have a painting contractor come and caulk all the siding not just any one can do the caulking
You shouldn’t be caulking every siding joint.
“Know you gear” theme song
I was done watching after you left the rotted studs and filled them in with filler that is so wrong.
Maybe watch my video about how to repair wood with structural epoxy like this so you don’t have to completely remove the rotted wood.
This is NOT the correct or "Best Practice" for repairing rotten wood. Especially your structural support for your door. You should have removed the door, completely replaced all of the rotten boards with pressure treated or marine grade boards. Then applied water proofing membrane and reinstalled the door before replacing the trim. This trim product should never be installed so it's in contact with standing water.
video starts at.....
Holy shit. Organize the inside of your house.
Holy shit - don't be so f'ing rude. He didn't ask for your advise on how to live inside his own home.
3.5 minutes into a 7 minute "install" do you finally get to installing a board...over 50%of your video is preparing rotted wood for installing trim. you need to retitle this video. this is why so much of the stuff on youtube is often a waste of time. you don't even cover the manufacturer points for installation.