I feel your pain ! I buy too many knives as well. Soon I won’t be able to watch these videos because do I really need to pay the WiFi bill or buy another knife ?
The Leatherman Wave+ is by far my favorite multitool of all time. Pliers, bottle opener, regular blade, and a saw blade are a given, but scissors is probably my most important part of a true multitool. I also use the magnetic Phillips/flathead all the time, and the small precision Phillips/flathead is vital for repairing/manipulating eyeglasses and electronics (maybe not used all the time, but when you need them, they are MVPs). The Wave+ is the best $100 I ever spent on any tool ever. It is the perfect combo of all the tools I use regularly and need at any time. (Edit: you would also be surprised at how useful having an 8" ruler on hand is)
Another good Idea. He wanted inexpensive so I thought Vic PE Sentinel, $30, easy open, light single blade and you can probably get "road cone color" scales. Easy to keep honed razor sharp
A Swiss army knife with a 10 inch dangling pair or red reflective paracord works for me in yard, garden or camp. Sometimes I have to look for it with a flashlight at night. Or apply reflective tape to the handgrip also helps but not as much as reflective paracord. And the reflective tape will slip around with age.
Back when I was on M1A1 Heavy tanks in the early 90s all the way through to the mid-00s, *everyone* in every tank platoon I was in carried a Leatherman. Some tankers tried the then-new Gerbers out but it turned out they were made of weaker steel back then and the pliers were always breaking so eventually we all just settled on the original Leatherman. Gerbers developed such a bad rep back then that to this day tankers tend to stay away from Gerber and stick to Leatherman multi-tools. Sorry, Gerber, but you really screwed up back then and the Army has a long memory when it comes to tools breaking during normal use. I swear, the U.S. Army should just issue a Leatherman to every 19K and 19D MOS soldier. Very useful for unscrewing the light domes to replace burnt-out bulbs, tightening down various small nuts and bolts in all stations, cutting rope and commo wire, extracting a jammed casing in the M16 or M240 & M2 machine guns, installing safety wires on various bolts, etc. Since it took time to open the loader's sponson box and pull out the tool bag then rummage around in said tool bag for a pair of wire cutters or the right screwdriver, it was just faster to whip out a Leatherman in-place and immediately take care of the problem. You could always tell who the high-speed tankers were depending on whether or not they were sporting a well-used Leatherman in a well-worn leather belt case. The hinges on them would quickly wear-in to the point where we could open and close them one-handed like a butterfly knife, which is also very handy when climbing around on top of an M1-series tank since you're required to have 3 points of contact at all times for safety (two feet planted and one hand grabbing on to a hard point on the turret).
I spent 6 years in the Army as a 19D, and in every single unit I was ever in I was always my platoons knife/tool guy. And yeah, I still have the Leatherman Wave that travelled the world with me. I tried other brands like Gerber and SOG but always came back to my Leatherman.
I can offer another endorsement of Leatherman - they stand by their warranties. I work in IT and managed to distort my original Wave using the hard wire cutters. I fully expected tham to say it was abuse/misuse, but they sent me a brand new Wave, no questions asked and the same when a snapped the screwdriver on a P4 - they sent me a brand new PS4. I don't know many people who've managed to break one (never mind 2 like me!) but anyone who has done has never had a problem getting a new one under the 25 year warranty.
I just bloody love your videos guys. DCA, you are such a natural, and hit that perfect balance of info, sales, and fun. And the more interjections from Thomas the better!
I’m not too proud to say that I was in my mid 30’s when I finally admitted to myself that I didn’t know how to use pliers properly, so I looked up “what are pliers used for” here on RUclips and taught myself what I should have known since I was a kid. Now that I EDC a multi tool, I’m shocked at just how often I use the needle nose pliers. The regular pliers, not so much, but they come in handy at random times. Needle nose pliers are good for: pulling out things that are tightly stuck into a surface; getting good leverage to press something into a surface (a key into a gummed up lock, a needle through leather); adding leverage to something you need to bend, twist, fold; holding onto something that could hurt your fingers (especially thorny branches and vines). I refer to my needle nose pliers as my “super fingers”. And while they aren’t suited for the task, wire cutters can be used as tiny pruning shears if you’re in a bind and need some right away.
I forgot to mention. 🤦♂️ Needle nose pliers work wonders when it comes to knot tying. I make paracord bracelets as a hobby, and using pliers is basically cheat mode for making or undoing tight knots without exhausting my hands.
In the same line of thinking as the Böker tech-tools there is the larger and more beefy Ruike LD series. They actually use a locking blade, an actually competent blade steel, G10 handle scales and just as modifiable as normal SAK style multitools and will work with most accessories.
When it comes to Victorinox for the outdoors, the Farmer X gets my pick. The utility of the scissors in the woods cannot be underestimated. I’m surprised DCA didn’t mention the Farmer X instead of the Farmer, as it is still under 100 USD. One thing about pliers in the woods is that although they can certainly be useful for picking up hot wire bails, I find that they are also extremely useful for pulling cordage taut when fingers just can’t grip well enough; however this is an infrequent enough need that I feel comfortable leaving the immense weight of my first-gen Leatherman Wave home, and relying only on my Swiss Army Knife. For the record, the reamer on the 93 mm Victorinox knives is not an awl, it is a reamer. It is for boring, not stabbing (especially not with a slip joint!) or sewing-better to carry a separate sewing kit. The can opener is the least useful thing, as really, unless you are a band of soldiers scavenging from shops in time of war, who is carrying metal tins into the backcountry?? I would not call myself an ultralighter, but the older I get, the less I am willing to carry unnecessary weight either into the woods, or in my daily handbag, and the more creative I become with the gear I can still carry comfortably.
For gardening try a smallish kitchen knife. Most are rust resistant. To prevent loss, double over about a 20 inch length of red or yellow REFLECTIVE paracord and hitch it to a hole in the handle. Drill a hole if there isn't one. I use a larks head knot for example to string one on my key chain. Believe me that paracord has saved the day on more than one occasion. And the reflective cord is brilliant under a flashlight during even the worst conditions at night !
I'm a mad gardener and my go-to folding knives are Ontario RAT 1 & 2 in AUS8. Get nice and sharp, easy to sharpen, stainless & best of all low cost. I agree with DCA - put a bright lanyard on your knives - all mine have a 2.5" neon yellow or orange tail lanyard. As for fixed knives - yes having a fixed blade is also really useful. My go-to are Mora Companion (low cost & available in many colours) and a Condor Woodlaw (getting a bit expensive but works well).
For gardening in the tropics (or subtropics, where I live), that machete you mentioned is about the best all-around knife. Keep it razor-sharp, and it will take care of you. To prevent losing your knife, it’s hard to beat a nice lanyard lashed to your belt. Most machetes do have lanyard holes, many pocket knives have lanyard holes or bails, but about as many do not.
for the guy who lost a few knifes Mora Basic is the answer cheap sharp and you will not cry when its lost. And when i bought anew knife i actally choose a Manix2 over the bugout becasue i wanted something that felt more beef in the hand then the bugout did, but now do i want a full metal bugout tho
Hi DCA, Long time listener, first time caller. I was wondering if you could do a metallurgy primer. I enjoy the sections where you get into the weeds of different metals, their benefits and shortcomings and their history in the knife world. Love the show. Thanks. Graham
woodsaws on all multitools are decent only on dry dead wood. try to saw a wet living wood and the teeth will be unusuable after 2 moves. the wood will stick to the blade and the saw movement will be ineffective. the only solution: buy a Leatherman with a Tshank like the Surge, and attach a saw with bigger and more distanced teeth. the results will be awesome.
Something learned from Bushcraft Kelso, you can get some extra camping utility out of your Alox SAKs by putting a bow drill divot in one of the scales.
Nice comparison, personally I use the Victorinox Walker (formerly/sometimes known as the Lumberjack). Just 3 blades, knife, saw and combo tool so it's light and the tool set is perfect IMO for the outdoors.
I was going to suggest the Walker as well, it's a great model. If you are going ultralight camping, it's the lightest SAK with a saw (and the cheapest). It's missing an awl but not the biggest deal to me.
I’m sure the Alox SAK scales are sturdier than the plastic SAK scales, but I have never had the plastic scales break on me. I’ve seen some used SAKs with broken scales, but I don’t know how someone managed to break them. As long as you don’t run over your knife with a truck or something like that, either kind of scale should hold up well.
Top 5 multitools for camping is very hard..but it depends a lot on if your using the multiool independently (aka no bits) or with a full complimentary kit.
The corkscrew on the Victorinox Camper will perfectly contain a 3/32 inch ferrocerium rod. Wax some jute twine and wrap the corkscrew and you have your tinder. Waxing the jute both waterproofs and causes it to burn longer while making it slightly sticky allowing it adhere to corkscrew. Use the back of the saw blade as a ferrocerium striker.
I LOVE THE LOST TROPICAL GARDEN KNIFE TOPIC! You hit upon an important point when you discussed reflective lanyards. The inexpensive Scandinavian partial tang knives are a GREAT option. $6 or $10 is a great price for a knife you're going to loose. Put a highly reflective lanyard on it to keep it a few days longer.
Hi DCA & Thomas good job fellas.Just a quick comment on the serrated edge for whittleing.I have not used signal combo edge for making fuzz sticks,I have used other serrated knives for it.They worked surprisingly wellThey do have there uses though , .give it a try.G.L.
Hey KnifeCenter and DCA, great work on your videos as always. One suggestion would be if it were possible to make the video background black (or a darker, warmer tone), makes the visual experience a lot easier for us nightwatchers :D Currently, because the background is white, it hurts my eyes and I tend to just listen to these videos like podcasts more so. Keep up the good content!
If we could darken the background, soften the focus and then tone down the music just a bit we would have some Knife Center ASMR videos. DCA could change his moniker to Silken D. Velvetsen.
I can relate to Thomas about the Leatherman. I like the P4's, but my Wave+ still works just fine. Not only that, but its broken in enough that i can open it one handed with a similar motion as the "Free" series
The SOG assist series is also a pretty good option for someone with brittle nails or whatever other reason nail nick can't be used. I've had mine for a few years now and still love it
I lanyard all my folding knives to my belt. I find my self in a lot of places that pull clip knives out of my pocket or if I drop it while fishing or on a ladder, I can quite easily retrieve it!
One suggestion for the garden knife might be the opinel garden knife. They do a knife that is the same size as the #8, but drop point inox blade and different shaped handle that is specifically for gardening. Good cheap option for gardening (actually, I prefer it to the regular #8 because the drop point blade, although some folks would be upset not to have the carbon steel option).
I have recently discovered how comfortable the mora eldris is. I bought the light duty version and use it as my edc knife. I have limited exposure to scandi grinds and the 12c27 stainless used on this knife. So far no issues what so ever. Is this a good combo for edc and should I expect any issues with daily use?
I use my eldris as a compact hunting knife. Havent had any corrosion issues yet, super easy to clean it up and easy to maintain the edge. Id say you cant go wrong for edc as long as the carry option works for you.
Hey DCA and Thomas, since today's International Lefthanders Day, can you guys show us some left-handed knives? Not just ambidextrous but dedicated left-handed ones.. Thanks from Philippines 🇵🇭
I’ve been loving the Renaissance we’re having with slip joints getting modern takes. My current favorite is the Tactile Knives Bexar. It has a super slicey thin Magnacut blade and just disappears in the pocket. I’d love to find a slip joint with a similar profile with that same size and high-end fit and finish as the Bexar but also has a pocket clip. I have a UKPK, Kizer Zipslip, and ZT 0235 but none of those have that super slim profile of the Bexar.
As you know better than me the opinel is a good choice for a good cheap knife and nowadays with the colors it'll be more visible. And of course plenty of sizes
The next to last question about wrong heat treat with factory knives the issue isn't so much have they ruined the blade, but they don't often harden a blade steel to its best hardness. 14C28N as a case in point should per specs and tests be hardened to HRC62, but few do, custom makers for the most part. It is a very tough steel and a 62 hardness isn't going to hurt it. Civivi runs theirs to around 60-61, but others around 58-59. 60 to 62 is a gain of 10.3% hardness. The Rockwell C scale is exponential, but not by a lot, 50-51 is a 4% difference and 60-61 is 5%.
Another great video that will take two separate sit-downs to enjoy. Awesome job as always. But another loooonggggg drawn out sit-down for people with jobs and families.
Hi DCA,have you ever received feedback from customers who purchased knives that you recommended to them? I'm curious how many people follow thru with purchases. Keep up the great work
Hey, DCA. What would your picks be for someone who is getting into modern materials and locks, but still has a love for the classic Buck and Case knives?
@@wupwop agreed 100%. Would have mentioned them but he said he wanted modern locking mechanisms. Pena has some modern traditional bolster lock models, that's another one
I don't like bits for camping (or the outdoors at all). Bits easily get lost AND I never needed that many different screwdrivers (usually a large flat does it all for me). For me, it is either the Huntsman (with the parcel hook to get the pots) or the Farmer (IMO best awl in MT).
Hey DCA I’m looking for a new EDC fixed blade. I need something with at least some corrosion resistance, and a decent bit of toughness. Around a 3.5 inch blade give or take a bit. I’m looking for pocket carry or something else concealable. Max budget is $250, but I would like to see some budget picks as well. Thanks!
Nicely done presentation. This is the kind of helpful broad spectrum stuff for which I think there must be a pretty wide audience, viewers as well as folks with a few dollars to drop. Cheers.
Lately in the knife community there is lots of talk about makers shipping knives out with "sub-optimal hardness". My question is if there really is such a thing. If magnacut is reported as having optimal performance between ~61 to 65, should we accept less than that? To clarify without naming names there is a knife maker out there who reports the magnacut hardness range on his knives between 59 and 61
I carry a p4 everyday and it’s the only folder I really use. The rest are bushcraft knives and I really love the leather man free is cause I use the pliers all the time
Here's a question for you DCA, I'm looking for traditional bushcraft folders for my day hiking bag. I'm a big fan of the TOPS fieldcraft but I wished they had wood scales to give it that nice natural feel.
I don't know if the Signal has it, but the Wave's can opener has a wire stripper that can be used as a very effective ferro rod striker, and it's a lot better to use that than your blade to make fire. May need that edge for something more critical, so use the wire stripper's V notch to throw sparks.
I think the Rebar is the best Leatherman for EDC. It is really a sweet spot for function/cost for me. I have decided that many of us EDC geeks get a little to caught up in "bits". It just feels so "efficient" to be able to have one driver and then any sort of bit you want. However - I find that on average - 1 out of 4 times the leatherman bits just can't get to the screw. They are too short and wide. You also loose out on the pry function of the flatheads. Also - leatherman just doesn't know how to make scissors.
My go to is a SAK Ranger and skeletool. I don’t know why the Ranger gets no love, I’m a mechanic, the only thing the Ranger lacks is made up from the skeletool.
Hello David. Could knife center please consider allowing sezzle pay options. I can promise it would encourage more sales. I would most certainly buy something more expensive that I can't sacrifice all the money in one go for.
Hey DCA! First off, thanks for all the great informational videos! And now to my question: I’ve been looking at getting an outdoor oriented neck knife. Handle scales preferably micarta, and I would like it to have enough blade length to do some “heavier duty” camp/bushcraft tasks. Please keep it under 100 bucks. Thanks man!
I don’t care for multitools, but the fact that Leatherman makes that easy to open knife tool shows that they really put on their thinking caps when designing them and are listening to customer feedback. Impressive.
I believe the P4 was a top choice among contestants on the "Alone" show. One gal didn't have one and had to drop out when she caught herself with a fish hook and couldn't get it out. The long nose pliers on a P4 can mash or remove the barb to allow extraction. Just getting a firm grip to push the hook down away from the barb can often do the trick if barb is not exposed.
Hey DCA & crew! I have a video topic that could be really interesting. I would like to hear your thoughts on what have been the most successful folding knives of the past, say, 20-25 years. I'm thinking in terms of, if you had to create Mt. Rushmore of all of folding knife history in the past two decades, what would be carved into stone? Instead of four, you could round up to five or even ten. I'm thinking of knives like the Paramilitary 2, 940, Bugout, stuff like that which have been so influential to other designs & that have stood the test of time. The knives that, when someone thinks "best modern folding knives", immediately come to mind above all else * are household names. You could do a deep dive into their history & different versions that have been released, similar to the history of the Bugout you recently discussed in the Bugout video. You may have already done something like this, so sorry if I missed it. But I think it would be really cool to see a video exploring what the Hall of Fame or Mt. Rushmore of folding knives in this millennium so far. This would be based mostly on sales, influence on the market, & number of aftermarket options, I'm thinking. You could add other parameters as you see fit, of course! Thanks guys!
since it seems common code, here the opener: " hey DCA" 😁 I recently handed out my Laguiole to a friend, who was fighting with what the restaursnt calle a steak knive and a jucy piece of meat. Lucky for him, i had a table-suitable Knife on me. However, it made me wonder, what options are there for good folding steak knives to carry and/or give away. Every now and then, you mention, what could be used (I had to get the RMJ tacticle steak knive 😅) but as a topic, i think, it hasn't be handled... I would be very interested in your sugestions. Thanks for the shows! keep it up and coming
@Big Bee - Spyderco does superb heat treating, but the absolute gem has to be Buck with Paul Bos. Bos created a name synonymous with excellence in heat treating. Runner up credit goes with Tops and Esee's Rowan for their perfection with 1095, knowing they create Jurassic levels of toughness.
Hi David, I'm looking for a French Lagiole style knife, I know they are very expensive, my question is if you have a Suggestion of Lagiole of maximum 150 dollars, or some alternative of that cheaper style, greetings from Mexico City. You are the best and nicest American to conduct reviews of your kind.
Alright...I'm looking for some gentleman style knives. Just some classic slipjoint options that don't break the bank. Trying to get one of every style and this is the next one in line. I have a modern version in the cart of the Real Steel Solis and I'm about to pull the trigger. Thoughts?
FAQ Question: DCA, you haven't talked about zirconium all that much as handle/hardware materials go. How do you think it compares to titanium? Do you see it trickling down to the more attainable tiers of knives in the near future, the way carbon fiber and powder steels have?
Spyderco is definitely screwing up the heat treat on O1 steel with their bushcraft knives. O1 is a tough steel but the Spyderco Bushcraft is brittle. My blade snapped off from sharpening tent stakes the first time I used it. After a quick Google search I found a ton of complaints about this. It’s a common problem with their O1 blades. Which is pretty bad considering how easy O1 is to heat treat. And skeletonized tangs don’t help.
I have two questions. I hope they’re not dull. 1) What’s the advantage of a convex grind? 2) What does The Dude (not a name anyone would self apply where I come from) have against The Eagles? I’ve always wondered that.
Hello DCA! I have recently gotten into packrafting and have done several backpacking/bikepacking packraft trips. I need several fixed blade recommendations that are stainless and good for bushcraft, and several folders that might go well on the river as well. Thank you sir!
Howdy! I'm obsessed with sheepsfoot and cleaver blade shapes (reverse tanto for Thomas). Any suggestions for your favorite with that blade style around $100?
Hello there. What's your take on knifes with a downsized blade as an outdoorsy EDC ? Knives like the Hornero from tops or the rat 3 caper knife ? Thanks !
Hey DCA! Your recent video on Benchmade Bugout alternatives got me thinking. How strong are button locks compared to crossbar locks or liner locks? I can only think of three knife companies that make button locks: Kizer, Civivi, and CKRT. Are there any more?
This may be the most stupid question of the day, but if someone did something stupid with a knife and ruined the heat treatment (like dropping in a camp fire or sharpening on a high speed grinding wheel), can it be reset or is it just destined for the recycling bin?
I love my Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Outrider for emergencies, hiking or camping use. Its full sized, well made and won't break the bank. I used a Leatherman Wave when I was in the US Army but I had to work on equipment. I wouldn't use that as a camping/hiking knife nowadays. I also think a Victorinox Rangergrip (I have the 78) would be good for a hiking/camping tool way under $100. I don't agree with David on using a Leatherman like multitool for a camping or hiking tool. I'd pair the Victorinox with an Esee Izula 2.
Personally I'm an Outrider paired with a fixed blade guy, but still plenty of utility around camp for a "Leatherman-like" thing. I certainly wouldn't want to hike with one though. -DCA
I’ve carried a benchmade 940 osborne for years. Looking for something new but it’s hard with the sea of knives these days. Looking for something with aluminum handles, premium steel and under 200. Any direction would be great!
Hey guys at Knifecentre! I'm a scout leader and a control box engineer in my day to day. I'm looking for an EDC multi-tool either pliers focused or knife focused I'm in your hands on that one but! I'd like it to have a tool set that can cover the variety of activities we do at scouts (if you need a link to the badges and awards so you can research, my DMs are open), I'd like it to be able to have a screwdriver that can get into tight spaces and then tackle any minor task my day to day life throws at it away from scouts and work. So, opening packages, trimming nails in a pinch, etc. Any recs you have would be immensely appreciated and if you can squeeze in some fidget factor that would be amazing!! Loving the content, keep up the good work
@@paladinofwrath2145 Pliers and wire cutters, 154 cm blade, swap-able bit screwdriver and you can fit an extra bit in the handle. I think it looks cool too. It doesn't have nail trimmers though, and if you need scissors I'd recommend Swiss army evo grip 18, it comes with everything except pliers (the yellow s18 locks, the red 18 doesn't lock). Hope that helps 🥳
Leatherman P4, hands down. If you were unsure, watch Clay Hayes on Alone and watch what he does with just that. I don't know why you'd choose lesser Leatherman options. The video title doesn't say, "Best cheaper multi-tools".
![Natanael Cano x Nueva H - Amapola [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6Q4mnRD5jCw/mqdefault.jpg)
I use the awl on my multitool to dig new holes in my belt, as I spent all my money on knives, can't afford to eat, and have lost a ton of weight
And can't afford a new belt😐😄
🤣
I feel this completely 😂 I just refuse to eat and buy belts. So I can buy knives and gear
Will be handy when we start starving in the upcoming depression...buy good tools now while money is still a thing
I feel your pain ! I buy too many knives as well. Soon I won’t be able to watch these videos because do I really need to pay the WiFi bill or buy another knife ?
Never thought to use corkscrew to untie knots!!!GENIUS!
The Leatherman Wave+ is by far my favorite multitool of all time. Pliers, bottle opener, regular blade, and a saw blade are a given, but scissors is probably my most important part of a true multitool. I also use the magnetic Phillips/flathead all the time, and the small precision Phillips/flathead is vital for repairing/manipulating eyeglasses and electronics (maybe not used all the time, but when you need them, they are MVPs).
The Wave+ is the best $100 I ever spent on any tool ever. It is the perfect combo of all the tools I use regularly and need at any time.
(Edit: you would also be surprised at how useful having an 8" ruler on hand is)
For the gardener I think a more premium option is the Spyderco salt 2 hawkbill. That knife shape is really handy for harvesting produce.
Another good Idea. He wanted inexpensive so I thought Vic PE Sentinel, $30, easy open, light single blade and you can probably get "road cone color" scales. Easy to keep honed razor sharp
A Swiss army knife with a 10 inch dangling pair or red reflective paracord works for me in yard, garden or camp. Sometimes I have to look for it with a flashlight at night. Or apply reflective tape to the handgrip also helps but not as much as reflective paracord. And the reflective tape will slip around with age.
Back when I was on M1A1 Heavy tanks in the early 90s all the way through to the mid-00s, *everyone* in every tank platoon I was in carried a Leatherman.
Some tankers tried the then-new Gerbers out but it turned out they were made of weaker steel back then and the pliers were always breaking so eventually we all just settled on the original Leatherman. Gerbers developed such a bad rep back then that to this day tankers tend to stay away from Gerber and stick to Leatherman multi-tools.
Sorry, Gerber, but you really screwed up back then and the Army has a long memory when it comes to tools breaking during normal use.
I swear, the U.S. Army should just issue a Leatherman to every 19K and 19D MOS soldier. Very useful for unscrewing the light domes to replace burnt-out bulbs, tightening down various small nuts and bolts in all stations, cutting rope and commo wire, extracting a jammed casing in the M16 or M240 & M2 machine guns, installing safety wires on various bolts, etc.
Since it took time to open the loader's sponson box and pull out the tool bag then rummage around in said tool bag for a pair of wire cutters or the right screwdriver, it was just faster to whip out a Leatherman in-place and immediately take care of the problem.
You could always tell who the high-speed tankers were depending on whether or not they were sporting a well-used Leatherman in a well-worn leather belt case. The hinges on them would quickly wear-in to the point where we could open and close them one-handed like a butterfly knife, which is also very handy when climbing around on top of an M1-series tank since you're required to have 3 points of contact at all times for safety (two feet planted and one hand grabbing on to a hard point on the turret).
I spent 6 years in the Army as a 19D, and in every single unit I was ever in I was always my platoons knife/tool guy. And yeah, I still have the Leatherman Wave that travelled the world with me. I tried other brands like Gerber and SOG but always came back to my Leatherman.
I can offer another endorsement of Leatherman - they stand by their warranties. I work in IT and managed to distort my original Wave using the hard wire cutters. I fully expected tham to say it was abuse/misuse, but they sent me a brand new Wave, no questions asked and the same when a snapped the screwdriver on a P4 - they sent me a brand new PS4.
I don't know many people who've managed to break one (never mind 2 like me!) but anyone who has done has never had a problem getting a new one under the 25 year warranty.
I also experienced a Gerber failure back in the day, never owned any Gerber since.
I just bloody love your videos guys. DCA, you are such a natural, and hit that perfect balance of info, sales, and fun. And the more interjections from Thomas the better!
I’m not too proud to say that I was in my mid 30’s when I finally admitted to myself that I didn’t know how to use pliers properly, so I looked up “what are pliers used for” here on RUclips and taught myself what I should have known since I was a kid.
Now that I EDC a multi tool, I’m shocked at just how often I use the needle nose pliers. The regular pliers, not so much, but they come in handy at random times. Needle nose pliers are good for: pulling out things that are tightly stuck into a surface; getting good leverage to press something into a surface (a key into a gummed up lock, a needle through leather); adding leverage to something you need to bend, twist, fold; holding onto something that could hurt your fingers (especially thorny branches and vines). I refer to my needle nose pliers as my “super fingers”. And while they aren’t suited for the task, wire cutters can be used as tiny pruning shears if you’re in a bind and need some right away.
I forgot to mention. 🤦♂️ Needle nose pliers work wonders when it comes to knot tying. I make paracord bracelets as a hobby, and using pliers is basically cheat mode for making or undoing tight knots without exhausting my hands.
I was considering a bugout but just got a hogue Deka in magnacut to replace my para 3 LW.
The Victorinox SwissChamp is the best camping knife I've ever used and I have many multitools and SAKs. It has saved me countless times.
In the same line of thinking as the Böker tech-tools there is the larger and more beefy Ruike LD series. They actually use a locking blade, an actually competent blade steel, G10 handle scales and just as modifiable as normal SAK style multitools and will work with most accessories.
Love my ruike, better awl than SAK IMO. Locking blade, pocket clip and a dedicated serrated blade are some huge bonuses!
When it comes to Victorinox for the outdoors, the Farmer X gets my pick. The utility of the scissors in the woods cannot be underestimated. I’m surprised DCA didn’t mention the Farmer X instead of the Farmer, as it is still under 100 USD.
One thing about pliers in the woods is that although they can certainly be useful for picking up hot wire bails, I find that they are also extremely useful for pulling cordage taut when fingers just can’t grip well enough; however this is an infrequent enough need that I feel comfortable leaving the immense weight of my first-gen Leatherman Wave home, and relying only on my Swiss Army Knife.
For the record, the reamer on the 93 mm Victorinox knives is not an awl, it is a reamer. It is for boring, not stabbing (especially not with a slip joint!) or sewing-better to carry a separate sewing kit. The can opener is the least useful thing, as really, unless you are a band of soldiers scavenging from shops in time of war, who is carrying metal tins into the backcountry?? I would not call myself an ultralighter, but the older I get, the less I am willing to carry unnecessary weight either into the woods, or in my daily handbag, and the more creative I become with the gear I can still carry comfortably.
I’ve owned, used, and maintained the original Gerber Suspension for over 15 years. Reliable and budget friendly.
Love my Rebar. It’s the closest to the original
Leatherman you can get.
I just got the Hogue Deka in magnacut a few hours ago. It's a Bugout killer. GET THIS KNIFE!
For gardening try a smallish kitchen knife. Most are rust resistant. To prevent loss, double over about a 20 inch length of red or yellow REFLECTIVE paracord and hitch it to a hole in the handle. Drill a hole if there isn't one. I use a larks head knot for example to string one on my key chain. Believe me that paracord has saved the day on more than one occasion. And the reflective cord is brilliant under a flashlight during even the worst conditions at night !
I'm a mad gardener and my go-to folding knives are Ontario RAT 1 & 2 in AUS8. Get nice and sharp, easy to sharpen, stainless & best of all low cost. I agree with DCA - put a bright lanyard on your knives - all mine have a 2.5" neon yellow or orange tail lanyard. As for fixed knives - yes having a fixed blade is also really useful. My go-to are Mora Companion (low cost & available in many colours) and a Condor Woodlaw (getting a bit expensive but works well).
For gardening in the tropics (or subtropics, where I live), that machete you mentioned is about the best all-around knife. Keep it razor-sharp, and it will take care of you.
To prevent losing your knife, it’s hard to beat a nice lanyard lashed to your belt. Most machetes do have lanyard holes, many pocket knives have lanyard holes or bails, but about as many do not.
Whenever I go bowling, I always wear a Gerber Versafix Machete under my robe.
for the guy who lost a few knifes Mora Basic is the answer cheap sharp and you will not cry when its lost. And when i bought anew knife i actally choose a Manix2 over the bugout becasue i wanted something that felt more beef in the hand then the bugout did, but now do i want a full metal bugout tho
Hi DCA,
Long time listener, first time caller. I was wondering if you could do a metallurgy primer. I enjoy the sections where you get into the weeds of different metals, their benefits and shortcomings and their history in the knife world. Love the show. Thanks.
Graham
woodsaws on all multitools are decent only on dry dead wood. try to saw a wet living wood and the teeth will be unusuable after 2 moves. the wood will stick to the blade and the saw movement will be ineffective. the only solution: buy a Leatherman with a Tshank like the Surge, and attach a saw with bigger and more distanced teeth. the results will be awesome.
Something learned from Bushcraft Kelso, you can get some extra camping utility out of your Alox SAKs by putting a bow drill divot in one of the scales.
I dig it! -DCA
Nice comparison, personally I use the Victorinox Walker (formerly/sometimes known as the Lumberjack). Just 3 blades, knife, saw and combo tool so it's light and the tool set is perfect IMO for the outdoors.
I was going to suggest the Walker as well, it's a great model. If you are going ultralight camping, it's the lightest SAK with a saw (and the cheapest). It's missing an awl but not the biggest deal to me.
I’m sure the Alox SAK scales are sturdier than the plastic SAK scales, but I have never had the plastic scales break on me. I’ve seen some used SAKs with broken scales, but I don’t know how someone managed to break them. As long as you don’t run over your knife with a truck or something like that, either kind of scale should hold up well.
Top 5 multitools for camping is very hard..but it depends a lot on if your using the multiool independently (aka no bits) or with a full complimentary kit.
Big fan
I liked your signal video do you think the leather man signal or wave + is better for camping?
@@SimplyBrick I'd pick the P4 over both easily
@@maxlvledc dang, i already bought the wave+
DCA. The KC exclusive Olive-Drab Alox Victorinox Huntsman will be a great addition to this list when you finally MAKE IT HAPPEN!!! come on, guys!
Thanks for the answer DCA! Much appreciated.
I've used my Skeletool to process firewood, shave feathers, and strike a ferro rod. It's very capable as a camp tool!
The corkscrew on the Victorinox Camper will perfectly contain a 3/32 inch ferrocerium rod. Wax some jute twine and wrap the corkscrew and you have your tinder. Waxing the jute both waterproofs and causes it to burn longer while making it slightly sticky allowing it adhere to corkscrew. Use the back of the saw blade as a ferrocerium striker.
I LOVE THE LOST TROPICAL GARDEN KNIFE TOPIC! You hit upon an important point when you discussed reflective lanyards.
The inexpensive Scandinavian
partial tang knives are a GREAT option. $6 or $10 is a great price for a knife you're going to loose. Put a highly reflective lanyard on it to keep it a few days longer.
Hi DCA & Thomas good job fellas.Just a quick comment on the serrated edge for whittleing.I have not used signal combo edge for making fuzz sticks,I have used
other serrated knives for it.They worked surprisingly wellThey do have there uses though , .give it a try.G.L.
I truly believe it’s the knife or multi tool one has on hand when needed🙏
Hey KnifeCenter and DCA, great work on your videos as always. One suggestion would be if it were possible to make the video background black (or a darker, warmer tone), makes the visual experience a lot easier for us nightwatchers :D Currently, because the background is white, it hurts my eyes and I tend to just listen to these videos like podcasts more so.
Keep up the good content!
If we could darken the background, soften the focus and then tone down the music just a bit we would have some Knife Center ASMR videos. DCA could change his moniker to Silken D. Velvetsen.
I can relate to Thomas about the Leatherman. I like the P4's, but my Wave+ still works just fine. Not only that, but its broken in enough that i can open it one handed with a similar motion as the "Free" series
On some versions you can loosen up the pivot screws to get them to open easier.
The mixtape would be full of Creedance!
On a multitool, long nose piers are very helpful removing fishing hooks from fish (or flesh).
The SOG assist series is also a pretty good option for someone with brittle nails or whatever other reason nail nick can't be used. I've had mine for a few years now and still love it
I lanyard all my folding knives to my belt. I find my self in a lot of places that pull clip knives out of my pocket or if I drop it while fishing or on a ladder, I can quite easily retrieve it!
As someone that has sharpened tens of thousands of knives... Yes, Spyderco by far does the best heat treatment on the wide range of steels they use.
One suggestion for the garden knife might be the opinel garden knife. They do a knife that is the same size as the #8, but drop point inox blade and different shaped handle that is specifically for gardening. Good cheap option for gardening (actually, I prefer it to the regular #8 because the drop point blade, although some folks would be upset not to have the carbon steel option).
Don't those usually have a wood handle? Will it hold up in the rain?
I have the SAK Hiker. Great basic set of tools for the outdoors.
I’ve been hiking with the Huntsman for years. I back it up with a small pair of electrical pliers for fixing zips etc.
I have recently discovered how comfortable the mora eldris is. I bought the light duty version and use it as my edc knife. I have limited exposure to scandi grinds and the 12c27 stainless used on this knife. So far no issues what so ever. Is this a good combo for edc and should I expect any issues with daily use?
I use my eldris as a compact hunting knife. Havent had any corrosion issues yet, super easy to clean it up and easy to maintain the edge. Id say you cant go wrong for edc as long as the carry option works for you.
Hey DCA and Thomas, since today's International Lefthanders Day, can you guys show us some left-handed knives? Not just ambidextrous but dedicated left-handed ones.. Thanks
from Philippines 🇵🇭
I’ve been loving the Renaissance we’re having with slip joints getting modern takes. My current favorite is the Tactile Knives Bexar. It has a super slicey thin Magnacut blade and just disappears in the pocket. I’d love to find a slip joint with a similar profile with that same size and high-end fit and finish as the Bexar but also has a pocket clip. I have a UKPK, Kizer Zipslip, and ZT 0235 but none of those have that super slim profile of the Bexar.
As you know better than me the opinel is a good choice for a good cheap knife and nowadays with the colors it'll be more visible. And of course plenty of sizes
The next to last question about wrong heat treat with factory knives the issue isn't so much have they ruined the blade, but they don't often harden a blade steel to its best hardness. 14C28N as a case in point should per specs and tests be hardened to HRC62, but few do, custom makers for the most part. It is a very tough steel and a 62 hardness isn't going to hurt it. Civivi runs theirs to around 60-61, but others around 58-59. 60 to 62 is a gain of 10.3% hardness. The Rockwell C scale is exponential, but not by a lot, 50-51 is a 4% difference and 60-61 is 5%.
The Signal is my least favorite Leatherman, I would recommend the OHT or WAVE+.
Another great video that will take two separate sit-downs to enjoy. Awesome job as always. But another loooonggggg drawn out sit-down for people with jobs and families.
Hi DCA,have you ever received feedback from customers who purchased knives that you recommended to them? I'm curious how many people follow thru with purchases. Keep up the great work
Hey, DCA. What would your picks be for someone who is getting into modern materials and locks, but still has a love for the classic Buck and Case knives?
Benchmade Crooked River
Jack wolf knives are sick
@@wupwop agreed 100%. Would have mentioned them but he said he wanted modern locking mechanisms. Pena has some modern traditional bolster lock models, that's another one
This might be stretching it just a little bit, but Finch makes a few knives with a classically-inspired look.
@@Ericstraordinary I'd agree with that, Finch gives off classic vibes.
The Gerber stake-out multi-tool would of been a nice addition to this video
I don't like bits for camping (or the outdoors at all). Bits easily get lost AND I never needed that many different screwdrivers (usually a large flat does it all for me). For me, it is either the Huntsman (with the parcel hook to get the pots) or the Farmer (IMO best awl in MT).
Hey DCA I’m looking for a new EDC fixed blade. I need something with at least some corrosion resistance, and a decent bit of toughness. Around a 3.5 inch blade give or take a bit. I’m looking for pocket carry or something else concealable. Max budget is $250, but I would like to see some budget picks as well. Thanks!
Nicely done presentation. This is the kind of helpful broad spectrum stuff for which I think there must be a pretty wide audience, viewers as well as folks with a few dollars to drop. Cheers.
Lately in the knife community there is lots of talk about makers shipping knives out with "sub-optimal hardness". My question is if there really is such a thing. If magnacut is reported as having optimal performance between ~61 to 65, should we accept less than that? To clarify without naming names there is a knife maker out there who reports the magnacut hardness range on his knives between 59 and 61
Might as well use lc200n in my opinion
I carry a p4 everyday and it’s the only folder I really use. The rest are bushcraft knives and I really love the leather man free is cause I use the pliers all the time
Here's a question for you DCA, I'm looking for traditional bushcraft folders for my day hiking bag. I'm a big fan of the TOPS fieldcraft but I wished they had wood scales to give it that nice natural feel.
Victorinox hunter Pro in wood?
I carry my Swiss Champ for everything. It hasn't failed me yet in almost 38 years.
I don't know if the Signal has it, but the Wave's can opener has a wire stripper that can be used as a very effective ferro rod striker, and it's a lot better to use that than your blade to make fire. May need that edge for something more critical, so use the wire stripper's V notch to throw sparks.
Same implement so yes. Nice tip! -DCA
Great job DCA. Love every video!
I think the Rebar is the best Leatherman for EDC. It is really a sweet spot for function/cost for me. I have decided that many of us EDC geeks get a little to caught up in "bits". It just feels so "efficient" to be able to have one driver and then any sort of bit you want. However - I find that on average - 1 out of 4 times the leatherman bits just can't get to the screw. They are too short and wide. You also loose out on the pry function of the flatheads. Also - leatherman just doesn't know how to make scissors.
I have a button lock Elementum in all black, G10 scales. It’s not a flashy or Gucci type knife, but it’s a great edc tool.
My go to is a SAK Ranger and skeletool. I don’t know why the Ranger gets no love, I’m a mechanic, the only thing the Ranger lacks is made up from the skeletool.
Hello David. Could knife center please consider allowing sezzle pay options. I can promise it would encourage more sales. I would most certainly buy something more expensive that I can't sacrifice all the money in one go for.
LOVE the Dozier Hunters, excellent suggestion/
Hey DCA! First off, thanks for all the great informational videos! And now to my question: I’ve been looking at getting an outdoor oriented neck knife. Handle scales preferably micarta, and I would like it to have enough blade length to do some “heavier duty” camp/bushcraft tasks. Please keep it under 100 bucks. Thanks man!
Esee izula 1 or 2, you can get aftermarket extended scales for it or no scales
For more blade length I'd say the BK11 with the Micarta scales -DCA
Thanks!
Great video! I always end up wanting to buy a knife. Apocalypse EDC pairings (folder/fixed/multi-tool) would be awesome!
Cold steel ad15, Essee 4 and Gerber leatherman Surge.
@@marcausedc9521 if you got the AD15 for a folder, I'd suggest the ESEE 6 to go with it.
@@arrowheadguys7637 I truly almost said that model but I was saving a little weight was my reasoning.
@@marcausedc9521 weight is good. This is the apocalypse we're talking about.
AD15 and ESEE 4 just too similar in size. Love em both tho
Condor K-Tac Kukri (fixed) Benchmade 565-1 Freek (folder) Leatherman Wave+( multi tool)
I don’t care for multitools, but the fact that Leatherman makes that easy to open knife tool shows that they really put on their thinking caps when designing them and are listening to customer feedback. Impressive.
They are handy in a pinch.
I believe the P4 was a top choice among contestants on the "Alone" show. One gal didn't have one and had to drop out when she caught herself with a fish hook and couldn't get it out. The long nose pliers on a P4 can mash or remove the barb to allow extraction. Just getting a firm grip to push the hook down away from the barb can often do the trick if barb is not exposed.
Thanks for show. Choices!
I think the answer to all multitool questions is the wave
Hey DCA & crew! I have a video topic that could be really interesting. I would like to hear your thoughts on what have been the most successful folding knives of the past, say, 20-25 years. I'm thinking in terms of, if you had to create Mt. Rushmore of all of folding knife history in the past two decades, what would be carved into stone? Instead of four, you could round up to five or even ten. I'm thinking of knives like the Paramilitary 2, 940, Bugout, stuff like that which have been so influential to other designs & that have stood the test of time. The knives that, when someone thinks "best modern folding knives", immediately come to mind above all else * are household names.
You could do a deep dive into their history & different versions that have been released, similar to the history of the Bugout you recently discussed in the Bugout video. You may have already done something like this, so sorry if I missed it. But I think it would be really cool to see a video exploring what the Hall of Fame or Mt. Rushmore of folding knives in this millennium so far. This would be based mostly on sales, influence on the market, & number of aftermarket options, I'm thinking. You could add other parameters as you see fit, of course! Thanks guys!
since it seems common code, here the opener: " hey DCA"
😁
I recently handed out my Laguiole to a friend, who was fighting with what the restaursnt calle a steak knive and a jucy piece of meat.
Lucky for him, i had a table-suitable Knife on me.
However, it made me wonder, what options are there for good folding steak knives to carry and/or give away.
Every now and then, you mention, what could be used (I had to get the RMJ tacticle steak knive 😅) but as a topic, i think, it hasn't be handled...
I would be very interested in your sugestions.
Thanks for the shows! keep it up and coming
@Big Bee - Spyderco does superb heat treating, but the absolute gem has to be Buck with Paul Bos. Bos created a name synonymous with excellence in heat treating. Runner up credit goes with Tops and Esee's Rowan for their perfection with 1095, knowing they create Jurassic levels of toughness.
Aloha DCA and crew. Love the videos, keep up the good work. Can you show a few kitchen/chef knives made with powdered steel? Mahalo.
Now I'm looking at all the orange knives cheaper than $25 DCA passed on🤣
Hi David, I'm looking for a French Lagiole style knife, I know they are very expensive, my question is if you have a Suggestion of Lagiole of maximum 150 dollars, or some alternative of that cheaper style, greetings from Mexico City. You are the best and nicest American to conduct reviews of your kind.
Alright...I'm looking for some gentleman style knives. Just some classic slipjoint options that don't break the bank. Trying to get one of every style and this is the next one in line. I have a modern version in the cart of the Real Steel Solis and I'm about to pull the trigger. Thoughts?
I actually think the dozier and cold steel air lite are good comparison with the bug out
Leatherman Free P2 is awesome in my opinion.
FAQ Question:
DCA, you haven't talked about zirconium all that much as handle/hardware materials go. How do you think it compares to titanium? Do you see it trickling down to the more attainable tiers of knives in the near future, the way carbon fiber and powder steels have?
Spyderco is definitely screwing up the heat treat on O1 steel with their bushcraft knives. O1 is a tough steel but the Spyderco Bushcraft is brittle. My blade snapped off from sharpening tent stakes the first time I used it. After a quick Google search I found a ton of complaints about this. It’s a common problem with their O1 blades. Which is pretty bad considering how easy O1 is to heat treat. And skeletonized tangs don’t help.
I have two questions. I hope they’re not dull.
1) What’s the advantage of a convex grind?
2) What does The Dude (not a name anyone would self apply where I come from) have against The Eagles? I’ve always wondered that.
Love my Manix 2 lightweight in S110V.
I carried my griptilian for many years and now carry a 940. That red handle tho is 🤤 if they made a 940 in a red like that I’d buy another one lol
Thanks for all the great videos and knife knowledge. Question, what knives do you really want to highlight but are always out of stock at knifecenter?
Hello DCA! I have recently gotten into packrafting and have done several backpacking/bikepacking packraft trips. I need several fixed blade recommendations that are stainless and good for bushcraft, and several folders that might go well on the river as well. Thank you sir!
Start with Mora for the fixies, you won’t cry when they get lost!
Howdy! I'm obsessed with sheepsfoot and cleaver blade shapes (reverse tanto for Thomas). Any suggestions for your favorite with that blade style around $100?
Hello there. What's your take on knifes with a downsized blade as an outdoorsy EDC ? Knives like the Hornero from tops or the rat 3 caper knife ? Thanks !
Hey DCA! Your recent video on Benchmade Bugout alternatives got me thinking. How strong are button locks compared to crossbar locks or liner locks? I can only think of three knife companies that make button locks: Kizer, Civivi, and CKRT. Are there any more?
Pro-tech, Rockstead and CJRB off the top of my head. Spyderco smock is sort of a button lock
Hogue, WE, Boker, ADV, William Henry are a few others. And it all depends on the construction but they can be made quite strong indeed. -DCA
This may be the most stupid question of the day, but if someone did something stupid with a knife and ruined the heat treatment (like dropping in a camp fire or sharpening on a high speed grinding wheel), can it be reset or is it just destined for the recycling bin?
Highly unlikely -DCA
I love my Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Outrider for emergencies, hiking or camping use. Its full sized, well made and won't break the bank. I used a Leatherman Wave when I was in the US Army but I had to work on equipment. I wouldn't use that as a camping/hiking knife nowadays. I also think a Victorinox Rangergrip (I have the 78) would be good for a hiking/camping tool way under $100. I don't agree with David on using a Leatherman like multitool for a camping or hiking tool. I'd pair the Victorinox with an Esee Izula 2.
Personally I'm an Outrider paired with a fixed blade guy, but still plenty of utility around camp for a "Leatherman-like" thing. I certainly wouldn't want to hike with one though. -DCA
I have the Rebar in Coyote tan & run it in a tan Clip&carry kydex sheath. It's really good EDC.
I don't like the combo blades, I like multi tools with a separate serrated blade and plain edge.
Serrated makes me think of Walmart Smith and Wesson knives.
Yuck
I’ve carried a benchmade 940 osborne for years. Looking for something new but it’s hard with the sea of knives these days. Looking for something with aluminum handles, premium steel and under 200. Any direction would be great!
I'm looking to get a big camping/survival knife that's under $150 and is made in the USA. Any recommendations?
ESEE 5 or 6
When it comes to serrations would it be more important to have a tough steel or a steel with more edge retention?
Hey guys at Knifecentre! I'm a scout leader and a control box engineer in my day to day. I'm looking for an EDC multi-tool either pliers focused or knife focused I'm in your hands on that one but! I'd like it to have a tool set that can cover the variety of activities we do at scouts (if you need a link to the badges and awards so you can research, my DMs are open), I'd like it to be able to have a screwdriver that can get into tight spaces and then tackle any minor task my day to day life throws at it away from scouts and work. So, opening packages, trimming nails in a pinch, etc. Any recs you have would be immensely appreciated and if you can squeeze in some fidget factor that would be amazing!!
Loving the content, keep up the good work
Skeletool
@@wupwop Because? I need some details here. This is an investment tool which should last me for years. So if you don't mind, enlighten me
@@paladinofwrath2145 Pliers and wire cutters, 154 cm blade, swap-able bit screwdriver and you can fit an extra bit in the handle. I think it looks cool too. It doesn't have nail trimmers though, and if you need scissors I'd recommend Swiss army evo grip 18, it comes with everything except pliers (the yellow s18 locks, the red 18 doesn't lock). Hope that helps 🥳
So good to see Jim Hopper giving a knife review. Looking forward to seeing Jim in the next season of Stranger Things.
Leatherman P4, hands down. If you were unsure, watch Clay Hayes on Alone and watch what he does with just that. I don't know why you'd choose lesser Leatherman options. The video title doesn't say, "Best cheaper multi-tools".
do you know of anyplace i can find a replacement for my c r Laurence c k 3n1 ultra thin knife ?
also sold as IDL CK3000 ?