Hi Barry, if you're going to go to this effort, the windshield definitely needs to be heated. Even if it means using thinner pipes. I'm excited to see how it works when it's finished. thank you for keeping us posted! Greetings from Germany
yes, honestly im trying to think of the best way I was hoping to go through the battery pack compartment so that some of the residual heat would warm the battery to help with charging and loss of speed in cold weather, i have to find a. way to do it that doesnt look silly or just bleed off heat due to a long length of pipe being exposed to the outside elements
Aircraft SCAT tubing might be something to consider if you end up going with smaller tubing around the Sill and forward as it's dual-layer smooth silicone rather than corrugated paper and foil, and might offer a bit less resistance. It's a bit pricey, and I don't know if it's readily available in the U.K. but it's very available in the U.S.
Think you over complicating things here. I just run short hose through backpanel into car. Air intake is external. 2kw is far more than you need to heat car. I just use fan without heater to clear window as air is so warm inside. Leaving in Scotland regularly below zero. I just get it finished before winter is over!
From many years of experience with air-cooled VW transporters I can tell you that thin walled pvc pipes will lose 75% of any heat that you send down it. If you are determined to bring pipes to the front of the Ami I would take them inside the car and then the heat will bleed into the car rather than heating the world in general. The VW system is lagged and still loses most of its heat.
It is a concern, but to be fair this heater will suffice in a log cabin in canada so i think it will still do what i need, and also with a bit of lagging, after all a little biyt of foam wrap stops an outside water tap from freezing up so, it should should do, and somehow i need a little bit of residual heat to get to the battery
I used to install a bit larger Webasto heaters in trucks and equipment in Alaska and they moved so much very hot air that cooling loss from duct tubing was minimal. I also installed a bit smaller Espar heater in the engine compartment in a 34ft cabin cruiser I used to have, and ran about 25ft of 3" duct to a forward cabin with two vents on the run to the main cabin, and still got plenty of very hot air in the forward.
@@BarrieCrampton Thanks Barrie, I'm very interested to see how this works in the AMi. I've been chatting with Tim from 'Me an Mon Ami' from the time he got his Ami and the fogging is a huge issue for him even on the French Riviera, and I mentioned 12V diesel heaters to him a couple of years ago, but unless and experienced professional who's familiar with them I'd be hesitant to recommend having a custom install done. anyone. The cheap Chinese knock-offs are intriguing, and while I might consider one for portable emergency heat or camping, I' think I'd stick with the Webasto unit. 20 years ago s but we had so many functional and safety issues with portable diesel heaters in the Arctic, including the commercial/industrial Webasto units, I consider some user knowledge in regards to function and safe operation a must, and unattended operation not advisable, but I expect the newer computer controlled units to be better today. While I never had any issues with the Espar heater, I never slept in my boat with the Espar diesel heater running as a leak in a boat is much riskier than underneath a vehicle where fuel can drip on ground.
Hi Barry, if you're going to go to this effort, the windshield definitely needs to be heated. Even if it means using thinner pipes. I'm excited to see how it works when it's finished. thank you for keeping us posted! Greetings from Germany
yes, honestly im trying to think of the best way I was hoping to go through the battery pack compartment so that some of the residual heat would warm the battery to help with charging and loss of speed in cold weather, i have to find a. way to do it that doesnt look silly or just bleed off heat due to a long length of pipe being exposed to the outside elements
Aircraft SCAT tubing might be something to consider if you end up going with smaller tubing around the Sill and forward as it's dual-layer smooth silicone rather than corrugated paper and foil, and might offer a bit less resistance. It's a bit pricey, and I don't know if it's readily available in the U.K. but it's very available in the U.S.
A vent on the outlet is not necessary. I have a foam bung in mine for the days when its not cold enough for the heater, but you dont want a draught.
metal rectangular pipe underneath would be my suggestion.....low profile and tough enough if it should 'ground' now and then
good idea
Mount a 230V heater in the AMI and while you charge you heat. Unplug both and you are ready to go. Or simply run the heater with 20€ Wifi Outlet.
I'd personally mount it in the front and plumb it into the existing ductwork
not enough room and will probably need a liesure battery too if i want to pre heat the car without flattening the battery
Think you over complicating things here. I just run short hose through backpanel into car. Air intake is external. 2kw is far more than you need to heat car. I just use fan without heater to clear window as air is so warm inside. Leaving in Scotland regularly below zero. I just get it finished before winter is over!
good point, i just want to do it properly while its in pieces, and make it easier for the next person
From many years of experience with air-cooled VW transporters I can tell you that thin walled pvc pipes will lose 75% of any heat that you send down it. If you are determined to bring pipes to the front of the Ami I would take them inside the car and then the heat will bleed into the car rather than heating the world in general.
The VW system is lagged and still loses most of its heat.
Sorry to say ,bud it is going to coolaf way to fast with that lengt of pipe
It is a concern, but to be fair this heater will suffice in a log cabin in canada so i think it will still do what i need, and also with a bit of lagging, after all a little biyt of foam wrap stops an outside water tap from freezing up so, it should should do, and somehow i need a little bit of residual heat to get to the battery
I used to install a bit larger Webasto heaters in trucks and equipment in Alaska and they moved so much very hot air that cooling loss from duct tubing was minimal. I also installed a bit smaller Espar heater in the engine compartment in a 34ft cabin cruiser I used to have, and ran about 25ft of 3" duct to a forward cabin with two vents on the run to the main cabin, and still got plenty of very hot air in the forward.
@@jackoneil3933 thanks for that Jack, very helpful
@@BarrieCrampton Thanks Barrie, I'm very interested to see how this works in the AMi. I've been chatting with Tim from 'Me an Mon Ami' from the time he got his Ami and the fogging is a huge issue for him even on the French Riviera, and I mentioned 12V diesel heaters to him a couple of years ago, but unless and experienced professional who's familiar with them I'd be hesitant to recommend having a custom install done. anyone.
The cheap Chinese knock-offs are intriguing, and while I might consider one for portable emergency heat or camping, I' think I'd stick with the Webasto unit.
20 years ago s but we had so many functional and safety issues with portable diesel heaters in the Arctic, including the commercial/industrial Webasto units, I consider some user knowledge in regards to function and safe operation a must, and unattended operation not advisable, but I expect the newer computer controlled units to be better today.
While I never had any issues with the Espar heater, I never slept in my boat with the Espar diesel heater running as a leak in a boat is much riskier than underneath a vehicle where fuel can drip on ground.