One of the problem with a roof like this is that it 'sweats'. That's to say, water condenses on the inside. In the worst days, this water will then drip onto whatever is below. Our allotment equipment shed has this problem, requiring plastic sheeting as a sub-roof, to conduct the water away from the machines in there.
Very nice mate looks great. I used that flashing to seal a car port to my house. If you heat it with a heat gun you can really push it into the uneven finish of the bricks to stop water running down the wall behind it.
Woo hoo.. Waited ages for an update, the flashing around the chimney looks fine mate, although perhaps you should seal the edges that are against the actual brickwork. 👍👍
Loving what you’re doing here and will be looking forward to the next update. I have a similar derelict wash house attached to my property that I would love to rescue.
As someone who knows about as much about roofs as you, im going to say that looks really good. Given the weather we've had in the UK over the last few weeks I'd say its had a thorough test. Well done 👍
when you screw the roof sheets down, you wind the screws in, then wind them out, clear the swarf with your fingers, then wind the screw down again - i can see you setting the seal over swarf in the videos, water does get past when there is swarf trapped in the seal. Just a bit of advice from an old steel erector.
Aussie here - from the land of corrugated iron Funnily enough the older stuff was originally imported from Britain Anyway - looks great but I see a few differences to what we do here Ridge capping is a different profile - a common one here has a rounded top Use silastic or silaflex etc on the overlapping joints on the ridge cap and valleys Are you going to add a 90 deg flashing on the end of the gables over from the top of the sheets to the face of the barge board? To stop the condensation problem someone else mentioned - we install a layer of silver lined ‘fabric’ sheeting called sisalation/Sarking or a fibreglass insulation with the sarking attached
Lead replacement flashing, I'd use Ubiflex from Ubink. It's an expanded aluminium core embedded in some sort of dense rubber stuff. It's not self adhesive, I've used that stuff, I don't like it. Ubiflex is easy to bend, can be dressed to some degree like lead, easy to cut with tin snips and has no 'theft' value, unlike lead.
Please stop using graphite pencil for marking out your roof. The graphite will cause corrosion on the galvanising and rust wherever there is residual graphite on the roof...
One of the problem with a roof like this is that it 'sweats'. That's to say, water condenses on the inside. In the worst days, this water will then drip onto whatever is below. Our allotment equipment shed has this problem, requiring plastic sheeting as a sub-roof, to conduct the water away from the machines in there.
The roof seams solid and nicely done, but I would have used the opportunity to insulate it.
Very nice mate looks great. I used that flashing to seal a car port to my house. If you heat it with a heat gun you can really push it into the uneven finish of the bricks to stop water running down the wall behind it.
You're doing a great job, son, and happy to see you have done it correctly.💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Wow, I would say that’s a fine roof, well done!
Lovely new roof, I am sitting in front of the same model Jotul as we speak, toasty!
Superb taste Harry 😄😍 do you tend to run it open or closed?
@@ben-kilner i go open a lot of the time for full cosy factor but when closed it pumps out the heat.
😍😍
Woo hoo.. Waited ages for an update, the flashing around the chimney looks fine mate, although perhaps you should seal the edges that are against the actual brickwork. 👍👍
It has been a long wait 😄 thank you for your patience! Next episode will be out on the 7th December 👍
I have got a tube of mastic for the join to the brickwork 👍 I’ll leave it for a while to see how it fares on its own (I suspect not well…).
This was a joy to watch, looks like a job well done.
The birdsong in the background is a nice touch. ✌
I was waiting for a few days as I found your channel and watched a few videos
Ben you are doing a great job - when I used that bitumen-based flashing I finished it by used a rubber hammer to really bond it with the brick
Muito bom esses vídeo meu amigo, já estou ansioso pelo Próximo episódio...
Thank you 🤩🙏 next episode will be out on 7th December 👍
Loving what you’re doing here and will be looking forward to the next update. I have a similar derelict wash house attached to my property that I would love to rescue.
No nonsense ,straight to the point, great video
Glorious. Someone sympathetically and lovingly conserving an original building loosing non of its charm in the process. Plus no music! Subscribed
As someone who knows about as much about roofs as you, im going to say that looks really good.
Given the weather we've had in the UK over the last few weeks I'd say its had a thorough test.
Well done 👍
Great video
Great video. Keep them coming Ben
Next one out this weekend 🤓👍
Lovely build!
🙏🙏
Great progress, Thank for the video.
🙏🙏
when you screw the roof sheets down, you wind the screws in, then wind them out, clear the swarf with your fingers, then wind the screw down again - i can see you setting the seal over swarf in the videos, water does get past when there is swarf trapped in the seal. Just a bit of advice from an old steel erector.
Legend
😄❤️ thank you Henry!
Aussie here - from the land of corrugated iron
Funnily enough the older stuff was originally imported from Britain
Anyway - looks great but I see a few differences to what we do here
Ridge capping is a different profile - a common one here has a rounded top
Use silastic or silaflex etc on the overlapping joints on the ridge cap and valleys
Are you going to add a 90 deg flashing on the end of the gables over from the top of the sheets to the face of the barge board?
To stop the condensation problem someone else mentioned - we install a layer of silver lined ‘fabric’ sheeting called sisalation/Sarking or a fibreglass insulation with the sarking attached
Lead replacement flashing, I'd use Ubiflex from Ubink. It's an expanded aluminium core embedded in some sort of dense rubber stuff. It's not self adhesive, I've used that stuff, I don't like it. Ubiflex is easy to bend, can be dressed to some degree like lead, easy to cut with tin snips and has no 'theft' value, unlike lead.
Wondering why you didn't use roofing paper ? It's still a good video. Well done.
Did you buy this property? Are you renting? Is it a third option?
There are way better lead replacement products out there. Cromar Leadex is the one I use, great product.
There must be a reason why people kept using the same solution for centuries.
Using a angle grinder cutting sheets is no good they will rust ,always use cutting shears or z nibbler
Why does the grinder make it rust?
Please stop using graphite pencil for marking out your roof. The graphite will cause corrosion on the galvanising and rust wherever there is residual graphite on the roof...
I'd use a wax tile pencil or Sharpie
Wow, forgot that graphite is pretty much the most noble member of the galvanic series! Noted for future 👍🙏