Never had the thing apart ever! She was a virgin till you got a hold of her! So that was not my never sneeze.... Interesting how that would have got there.
No doubt. He didn't try to meter any inputs or outputs. He definitely had the opportunity to easily do a much more thorough troubleshooting session and most likely did. Had to be an imposter. 😃
Probably one half of the pixie distribution facility. One FET goes belly up, motor works on one and a half H-bridges and load is unbalanced, another half-bridge has to go to restore balance - with half the power.
Out of all of the tools he's taken apart we've never seen anything like like that with any other tool. Apart from that, if that were grease it should never have allowed that much wear in the bearing surfaces.
I got about a year and a half out of one . Worked it hard ,well worth the money plus some of those big jobs have shady people that stuff just magically disappears around.
I've always had your philosophy about returning and warranting tools, however I've also feel that the honest man is the one that pays the ultimate price.
Oh ya I totally agree and lifetime warranty doesn't mean the last one you'll have to buy in your lifetime. I've used tools incorrectly in the past many times but I'm also aware that it's my fault if I break it and often that risk is ok because it just needs to happen. There's fewer and fewer people willing to take responsibility or their own actions it seems or maybe I'm just turning into that old man. You learn a lot about a person from seeing how they deal with warranty issues. Some people are honest some people are not.
South Main Auto is one of the best channels out there. Definitely beats on that impact. Actually, kind of impressed at how its held up knowing how hard it gets worked. Love my brushless DeWalt 20Vs, but that Earthquake is one to consider.
Eric O's daily driver. I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did considering where is came from. That in itself says something about the tool. That particular one was worked _really_ hard too! Thanks for the video. If it breaks on day one that's a different story, yes?
Is the switch still giving it 100% or is there some of that magic dust in there limiting the current out to the brushes? (I've seen a few variable speed drills come back to life with a new switch )
I'm also suspecting the switch, there's a big copper plate on it, which must be a heatsink, so there must be some electronic switching going on inside. And when it gets hot, it could easily have cooked a capacitor which would result in an altered duty-cycle of the switching, resulting in less power reaching the motor.
@@HomelabExtreme In my experience when you pull the trigger all the way, the duty cycle gets overridden to just full power, ie the switching just stops and you get no interruptions to the power at all. I can't see how a cooked capacitor would change this behaviour, especially considering that modern switch circuitry has a microcontroller in it which doesn't use a capacitor for timing. It would be easy to bypass the switch entirely, just to see if it goes faster.
I knew this would come one day from all the AvE references Mr. O gives. I literally see a car mechanic version of AvE inside Eric from SMA, so this is goddamn awesome.
And he writes: while enjoying many SMA videos, along with AvE videos, I waiting patiently for this review. It's interesting to find out its not the large amount of rust that Eric encounters or the hot supper he puts his tools through, but rather just another tool wearing out. Thanks for the tear down and informative video AvE! I look forward to seeing this gun once again doing what it does best, that is fighting those "rusty nuts" in Eric's shop! Love always, Mike.
Got a Chicago Pneumatics impact gun, almost identical, for 45 GBP with dead ni-cd, put in a li-po pack from hobbycraft, and always balance charge it. and works a charm, also rebuilt with makita impact gun grease. Still kicks well...
I worked at a company that built large generators. After building the rotor and turning down the commutator, I had the job of using a saw blade to undercut the mica inter copper insulators. This prevented the brushes riding high. After cutting down all the insulators, I then used a V bladed tool to deburr the edges of the copper followed by a light sanding. These actions reduced the sparking from the brushes. Great work AvE.
I've been waiting for this video ever since Eric O mentioned sending it over to you. As usual you did not disappoint, hilarious and informative 👍 Now time for you to visit Avoca
AvE, South Main Auto and Essential Craftsman are some of my favorite RUclipsrs. It's great how RUclips brings us all together! What a tangled web we weave....
10:50, the right hand brushes look like they're either seized, worn out, or just not being pushed down by the spring. I'd look at those two brushes, and see if you can get them to push harder against the commutator. Love these videos, keep up the great work.
Could be the MOSFETs or their drivers being cooked a little :D Could be the potentiometer switch too. It would be interesting to swap the angry pixie wrangling box over from your semi-abused unit
Me too I found the part about anti seize something I never knew that it had ceramic dust. I ran my ohm meter across a dollop of the stuff and it is not conductive. When threads of a screw are tightened then the screw makes good contact and conducts to the chassis. I wonder if copper anti seize would be better.
@@anonony9081 wants to talk about strange? I have been reading the comments in a video, and I am seeing comments that were in the prior video I watched. If there are any replies to that message, I open it up and everything is normal. I can read the post that is meant for that video. Yea youtube wtf
As an aprentice in '79 I mistook Neversieze for Luberplate. Put it on the valves during Briggs rebuild. It scoured the valve stems and wore the cylinder out. The embarrassment and shame was worse than the short block I had to buy. The old timers in the shop said I would never forget it. 40 years later, they were right!
I'm a forklift mechanic. I bought it almost 1 year ago. No regrets. It's been more than great for the price. It definitely takes a beating in my field. I know my gun will wheenie out a lot sooner than the one in this video.
After just picking up the latest version of this Impact, I'm glad to see that despite it slowly dying, it's held up fairly well in a professional environment for 13 months. For my own purposes, mine will see usage for an easily countable number of times per month and so far the thing has performed well.
There needs to be a Part 2 to this! I can't believe you would end it without a conclusion. 1- the Magnet could have gotten weaker, doesn't seem likely but Neo has some strange properties with hit and impact. 2- One or two poles of the motor could have failed. Maybe the lead wire solder joint heated up and crystallized/oxidized the solder joint. with the high rpm of the motor, you might not even notice it except for lass power/slower speed. 3- a failure of the motor controller of some kind. Mosfets overheated and now have higher internal resistance or some other failure of the controller. what is the voltage at the motor vs new(er), what does the waveshape look like? I am just not believing that a mechanic resistance is the issue. the speed seems to consistent without any evidence of mechanical issues. This has to be electrical. Come on AVE, don't leave us hanging like this.
get that brush ring replaced a Milwaukee will fit and a side note if the springs can't push the carbon brush to the commutator hard enough the amp transfer drops because it's arcing to the commutator not touching ! and so less rpm, no..! P.S. i fix Power tools for A living
Really interesting to see a side by side. I would love to watch more videos where you explore exactly what is wrong with it. Perhaps by frankensteining it with the newer one.
Another up-vote for troubleshooting the device more in-depth. As a proper scientist, you should not give up that fast. Love your videos and learned a lot. Greetings from Germany!
Back in the day, when we used DC Brushed motors for racing RC cars off road, they'd die the slow death because the windings in the armature would build resistance from being over heated. Same with the brushes the shunts and the springs would weaken. Same thing with the comm plates. We'd turn them down on comm lathes to expose fresh copper, slap some new brushes in, new springs but its on its way out. Always ran stronger springs on the positive side. Fun thing, larger comm diameter gave us more torque 'Truck Class' and smaller comms gave more Rippums 'Buggy Class'. Eventually we'd run the comms down so far on the lathes they'd explode on the straights. Was always a magnificent sight. All the winding combinations too, 14 single 14x2 14x3 etc in everything from 27 turn 'stock class' down to insane 6T Triples in Mod 4wd. Oh the 90's.
I've been waiting for this one too. If Doctor O got 13 months out of it with his abuse I should get at least 5 years working on my own trucks. Seems worth the money to me. Thanks for another great one.
was that really anti-seize or was it worn out washers? glad you mentioned that the Milwaukee one didn't fair much better. I'm thinking switch is wearing out or adding some resistance to the circuit. now we know where Eric's HF impact went to. I've noticed he's back to using air again.
To get a good year and a half of intense daily work out of an economy tool is stellar, and the thing still serves a purpose even though it's wearing out. Harbor Freight is my go-to when I need something Right Now(tm), but I rarely plan on anything I pick up there lasting for more than a few jobs. I'm rethinking this Earthquake impact gun, though! Awesome stuff, AvE! Thanks! And thanks to Eric O. for the trial patient!
The long drill driver bits can be had at the local big box lumber'n junk store back near the coil fed screw guns.Senco and Makita coil fed guns in particular use those.Usually #2 Phillips and Robertson drive are availible and sometimes a couple sizes of Torx.
Nothing about commercial or professional use in there. They don't care bring it in get a new one. They market these as professional tools they can't say professional tools just don't use it in professional environments
I agree with you about selling yourself out by crying for warranty, it's hardly worth it. On the other hand, I wouldn't hesitate to write a review, documenting early failure. I wish air tools could be replaced, but they don't seem as prone to early failure as even this iteration of battery powered devices.
I have had 3 snap on and a Milwaukee over the past 20 years. All electric impacts seem to wear quicker than pneumatic. The Milwaukee rated at 1200ft lbs is two years old and today is the first time it would not take a lug nut off or break the stud.
BTW I got my new Ninja and there is a very interesting update in the design: A safety feature that appears to use planetary(guess, I haven't taken mine apart yet) gears to the bottom of the food processor/blender to spin the inside one fast and the outside one slow. If you don't shut it off the proper way it now stops in a quick fast fucking hurry. Might make an interesting teardown.
One suggestion would be to replace the brushes with new ones with a harder brush material. If they're warn down enough, the springs might not provide enough spring force to provide enough contact to get adequate/full commutation. I have a dewalt that I recently burnt the windings out of that I've replaced brushes in several times. There was a noticiable difference between soft brush's that I bought as 'replacements', and brushes that I took out of other universal motors and shaped to fit, which were of course quite a bit stiffer.
"Cosmic balance" being such good friends with karma... as I've gotten older and more (or less) wise, have found those add-on warranties are actually worthwhile on a specific few HF tools you know will get used/abused and highly likely to give up the ghost just shy of it's 1yr anniversary.
It is still 400 rpm low... try swapping the speed controls? If it is winding damage in the motor then it won’t be worth fixing. A speed control, possibly. Might just be conductive (or insulative) dust on the speed control wiper... I found a hilti corded hammer drill, with the cord cut off off the side of the road on the way to the dump. Tested with new end on cord stub, still no work. After it sat on my workbench a while, (until I needed a good SDS hammer drill next,) I opened up the speed control trigger mechanism and found the variable resistor wiper was covered with dried on concrete drillings powder... cleaned the whole interior of the speed control with a toothbrush and soapy water, blew it out with a compressor and dried with a blow dryer, and tested it with a new cord. $250 tool for an hour of my time, a salvaged cord from a blown shop-vac, and 1 cent worth of dish soap.
I'd still go for the Milwaukee gun for the 5 year warranty and the fact that I have 15 or so batteries from all my Milwaukee tools. Harbor Freight keeps changing suppliers and when they do, the batteries no longer have the same interface.
Very interesting video. I was really contemplating buying this gun but ultimately decided to go with the Ryobi because I didn't want to complicate my personal battery lineup. AND, the extra hit isn't really needed in my home shop. Nastiest item I have is the countershaft sprocket on the motorcycle. That only need a couple hundred foot pounds. The XT was overkill and I expect I'll get many years out of little Ryobi. Good know this beast is out there.
Dear estranged uncle bumblefack, just wanted to say thank you for the stickers. Love em and thoroughly enjoy all the vids. Keep fighting the good fight.
At least one of those brushes was completely worn out, which means one complete winding of the armature was not being lit up by the pixies. When one winding isn't lit up, you're only magnetising half of the lamination stack at a time, cutting the torque output of the motor by half. I think you'd be surprised at the results after just putting a new set of brushes in.
Ah a South Main Auto piece of royalty right here in British Columbiastan Canada...it's traveled from east to west to be torn apart by the best in the land!
I had a Dewilt impact that had the same symptoms as that. There’s a contact that gives full battery voltage when you give it full chooch on the trigger. It’s past the potentiometer region where the PWM works. The full chooch contact is burned out I’m thinking!
Thank you for mentioning returning stuff. I despise losers that do that. Just costing us ALL more. You aren't getting anything over on anyone! L on forehead pointed at them... Dude at South Main Auto is awesome.
Thanks for the video...and giving you proper props for what you smoo...,errr do. I’ve watched and continue to watch Eric’s and your show with care to allow some of my cranium thingofamagiggy to develop...’ya right’....
Those chinesium auto center punches have a good hit but their tips are the softest metal known to man, got tired of sharpening the tip all the time and got a good Starett, might not hit as hard but definitely leaves a mark even on the toughest metals.
I noticed that one of the brushes Time reference 11.13 left hand thumb its very very low. And would not have much pressure on it with the com in place. i'm a bit surprised to be honest that wasn't noticed.
Never had the thing apart ever! She was a virgin till you got a hold of her! So that was not my never sneeze.... Interesting how that would have got there.
We all know you don't disassemble when you can just CHOP IT OFF!
Hahah
Odd, but then again, from factory i got a Ski saw and three of the fasteners were chewed like a pig's asshole.
Maybe Ivan was in the tire room tearing A part?
@@jjthesavage blame the apprentice. Have you learned nothing from ave? Lol
South Main Auto is a fantastic mechanic and a great youtuber. My favorite actual mechanic youtuber, real stand up guy.
Two of my favorite RUclipsrs. Always hoped they'd cross paths.
@@gpadog It was inevitable. Eric quotes AvE all the time.
I'd stop working on my own vehicles if I knew a mechanic with the same skillz and integrity as Eric (SMA).
@Lako It's clear you don't watch AVE so don't go generalizing about things
Check out western truck and trailer if you like south main auto.
Would be interesting to start swapping bits from the new into the old until you found the root cause.
No doubt. He didn't try to meter any inputs or outputs. He definitely had the opportunity to easily do a much more thorough troubleshooting session and most likely did.
Had to be an imposter. 😃
My thoughts exactly!....Get out of my head!!
It was all I could do to restrain the whiny 12-year-old inside my head saying “… But WHYYY is it weaker??”
It could be the controller
My thought.
"It's like the Notre Dame, no one knows why it caught fire. Quasimodo, he's got a hunch"
Subscribed
I blame Esmeralda!!!
Oh man, have you got a lot to watch.
I lost it when he came up with that. LMAO.
@@MrWhite2222 Yeah, this guy's channel is it's own wormhole
@@Al-Fiallos I'm still in tatters here. I'm going to have to replay it again!! Listen here again at 3:05
“You are the next guy”. Well said.
The speed ratio is almost exactly half power (sqrt(0.5) = 0.71). Maybe it's only running on one set of comm bars.
interesting point, that could definitely do it.
Probably one half of the pixie distribution facility. One FET goes belly up, motor works on one and a half H-bridges and load is unbalanced, another half-bridge has to go to restore balance - with half the power.
+
A couple of the brush leads were bottomed out in the brush holders
Yep exactly, one open set of windings
aVe meets SMA, my dream collab!
South Main aVe. Auto? Lol Bring your car in for a complete tear down and repair!
I do love a good collab video between some of my favorite channels! Big Clive, Eric O, and you are right proper teachers
Terrific. I've been waiting for this one
Speaking of proper mechanics......
It may not be anti-seize lube. It may be metal from the bearing itself.
You beat me to it, but the metal likely came from something other than the bearing. The gears or impact hammers might have been the source.
You know longer need to sit at the back of the class.
Homemade never sneeze I was thinking the same
Has a similar look to moly grease
Out of all of the tools he's taken apart we've never seen anything like like that with any other tool. Apart from that, if that were grease it should never have allowed that much wear in the bearing surfaces.
I got about a year and a half out of one . Worked it hard ,well worth the money plus some of those big jobs have shady people that stuff just magically disappears around.
I've always had your philosophy about returning and warranting tools, however I've also feel that the honest man is the one that pays the ultimate price.
I have been binge watching SMA for the past month. Great channel. Fantastic family unit, and superb technical skills. Definitely worth the watch
Oh ya I totally agree and lifetime warranty doesn't mean the last one you'll have to buy in your lifetime. I've used tools incorrectly in the past many times but I'm also aware that it's my fault if I break it and often that risk is ok because it just needs to happen. There's fewer and fewer people willing to take responsibility or their own actions it seems or maybe I'm just turning into that old man. You learn a lot about a person from seeing how they deal with warranty issues. Some people are honest some people are not.
South Main Auto is one of the best channels out there. Definitely beats on that impact. Actually, kind of impressed at how its held up knowing how hard it gets worked. Love my brushless DeWalt 20Vs, but that Earthquake is one to consider.
Eric O's daily driver. I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did considering where is came from.
That in itself says something about the tool. That particular one was worked _really_ hard too!
Thanks for the video.
If it breaks on day one that's a different story, yes?
I permanently leave a 50mm 1/2 inch extension on the hog ring dingus so it's less fiddly to change sockets.
Is the switch still giving it 100% or is there some of that magic dust in there limiting the current out to the brushes? (I've seen a few variable speed drills come back to life with a new switch )
Agreed, switch is suspect.
I'm also suspecting the switch, there's a big copper plate on it, which must be a heatsink, so there must be some electronic switching going on inside.
And when it gets hot, it could easily have cooked a capacitor which would result in an altered duty-cycle of the switching, resulting in less power reaching the motor.
@@HomelabExtreme In my experience when you pull the trigger all the way, the duty cycle gets overridden to just full power, ie the switching just stops and you get no interruptions to the power at all. I can't see how a cooked capacitor would change this behaviour, especially considering that modern switch circuitry has a microcontroller in it which doesn't use a capacitor for timing. It would be easy to bypass the switch entirely, just to see if it goes faster.
I thought measure twice repair once, but AVE did not break out the multimeter
Ditto, my money is on the switch being the problem.
I knew this would come one day from all the AvE references Mr. O gives. I literally see a car mechanic version of AvE inside Eric from SMA, so this is goddamn awesome.
And he writes: while enjoying many SMA videos, along with AvE videos, I waiting patiently for this review. It's interesting to find out its not the large amount of rust that Eric encounters or the hot supper he puts his tools through, but rather just another tool wearing out. Thanks for the tear down and informative video AvE! I look forward to seeing this gun once again doing what it does best, that is fighting those "rusty nuts" in Eric's shop! Love always, Mike.
😂👍
Got a Chicago Pneumatics impact gun, almost identical, for 45 GBP with dead ni-cd, put in a li-po pack from hobbycraft, and always balance charge it. and works a charm, also rebuilt with makita impact gun grease. Still kicks well...
Been waiting for this video for quite a while when I heard Eric had sent the ugga dugga machine to you.
I worked at a company that built large generators. After building the rotor and turning down the commutator, I had the job of using a saw blade to undercut the mica inter copper insulators. This prevented the brushes riding high. After cutting down all the insulators, I then used a V bladed tool to deburr the edges of the copper followed by a light sanding.
These actions reduced the sparking from the brushes. Great work AvE.
I've been waiting for this video ever since Eric O mentioned sending it over to you. As usual you did not disappoint, hilarious and informative 👍
Now time for you to visit Avoca
Hahah I dunno if Avoca could handle AVE :)
Mr O at south man auto is my hero
Touches never seize instantly becomes the silver man of Canada.
Yeah, the tin man from oz.
AvE, South Main Auto and Essential Craftsman are some of my favorite RUclipsrs. It's great how RUclips brings us all together! What a tangled web we weave....
Voltage drop is the only way to diagnose the lack of chooch.
I'll bet if you check across the switch you will find the voltage loss.
As someone that used anti seize paste to lube an impact gun before , I'm glad that you i watched this video.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom
10:50, the right hand brushes look like they're either seized, worn out, or just not being pushed down by the spring. I'd look at those two brushes, and see if you can get them to push harder against the commutator. Love these videos, keep up the great work.
I wonder if it got hot enough to anneal the spring?
Hey you maniac. Do a techinical video on GREASE. We need to know what type of schmooooo to use. Tks
Ohhhh vids from the old shop warm the heart and hit the spot
A long time subscriber to south main auto and a new subscriber to your channel. You are a riot to listen to. And a great source of information !!!
As a huge fan of Eric's channel this is the one I was waiting for! Great job on the tune up. It's been used a lot.
Could be the MOSFETs or their drivers being cooked a little :D Could be the potentiometer switch too.
It would be interesting to swap the angry pixie wrangling box over from your semi-abused unit
Always learn something from these vijeos. Never knew how never seize worked- now I do, makes total sense. Cool.
Wow it says you made this comment a week ago and the video is only hours old. Strange
Ano Nony little known fact- few bucks in the hat enables time travel
Me too I found the part about anti seize something I never knew that it had ceramic dust. I ran my ohm meter across a dollop of the stuff and it is not conductive. When threads of a screw are tightened then the screw makes good contact and conducts to the chassis. I wonder if copper anti seize would be better.
@@anonony9081
wants to talk about strange?
I have been reading the comments in a video, and I am seeing comments that were in the prior video I watched.
If there are any replies to that message, I open it up and everything is normal.
I can read the post that is meant for that video.
Yea youtube wtf
Ano Nony patreons get week early access to all content.
As an aprentice in '79 I mistook Neversieze for Luberplate. Put it on the valves during Briggs rebuild. It scoured the valve stems and wore the cylinder out. The embarrassment and shame was worse than the short block I had to buy. The old timers in the shop said I would never forget it. 40 years later, they were right!
I'm a forklift mechanic. I bought it almost 1 year ago. No regrets. It's been more than great for the price. It definitely takes a beating in my field. I know my gun will wheenie out a lot sooner than the one in this video.
After just picking up the latest version of this Impact, I'm glad to see that despite it slowly dying, it's held up fairly well in a professional environment for 13 months. For my own purposes, mine will see usage for an easily countable number of times per month and so far the thing has performed well.
There needs to be a Part 2 to this! I can't believe you would end it without a conclusion. 1- the Magnet could have gotten weaker, doesn't seem likely but Neo has some strange properties with hit and impact. 2- One or two poles of the motor could have failed. Maybe the lead wire solder joint heated up and crystallized/oxidized the solder joint. with the high rpm of the motor, you might not even notice it except for lass power/slower speed. 3- a failure of the motor controller of some kind. Mosfets overheated and now have higher internal resistance or some other failure of the controller. what is the voltage at the motor vs new(er), what does the waveshape look like?
I am just not believing that a mechanic resistance is the issue. the speed seems to consistent without any evidence of mechanical issues. This has to be electrical. Come on AVE, don't leave us hanging like this.
Awesome! You and Eric are some of my favorite RUclipsrs
get that brush ring replaced a Milwaukee will fit and a side note if the springs can't push the carbon brush to the commutator hard enough the amp transfer drops because it's arcing to the commutator not touching ! and so less rpm, no..!
P.S. i fix Power tools for A living
Really interesting to see a side by side. I would love to watch more videos where you explore exactly what is wrong with it. Perhaps by frankensteining it with the newer one.
Another up-vote for troubleshooting the device more in-depth. As a proper scientist, you should not give up that fast. Love your videos and learned a lot. Greetings from Germany!
Back in the day, when we used DC Brushed motors for racing RC cars off road, they'd die the slow death because the windings in the armature would build resistance from being over heated. Same with the brushes the shunts and the springs would weaken. Same thing with the comm plates. We'd turn them down on comm lathes to expose fresh copper, slap some new brushes in, new springs but its on its way out. Always ran stronger springs on the positive side. Fun thing, larger comm diameter gave us more torque 'Truck Class' and smaller comms gave more Rippums 'Buggy Class'. Eventually we'd run the comms down so far on the lathes they'd explode on the straights. Was always a magnificent sight. All the winding combinations too, 14 single 14x2 14x3 etc in everything from 27 turn 'stock class' down to insane 6T Triples in Mod 4wd. Oh the 90's.
COOLEST VIDEO OF THE MONTH, two of my favorite youtubers working together. I knew Eric watched AvE, thank you guys!
🙊🙈🙉
Two of my favs getting together....What more could you ask for.
This is epic! You are speaking your own dialect and I can hear you in real time 100%. Thanks
AvE and south main auto? That's the cockford dollie
I've been waiting for this one too. If Doctor O got 13 months out of it with his abuse I should get at least 5 years working on my own trucks. Seems worth the money to me. Thanks for another great one.
Sounds like switching issue to me? or could 2 of the 4 brushes not be passing power? Just sounds like someone squeezing the trigger halfway down
Two of my favorite You Tube folks,thanks for another excellent video .
"When your spider sense is tingling, don't ignore it"
That is some of the best safety advice you can receive.
I've been watching Eric use this thing. I'm glad you did this video, I learned something. Thanks
was that really anti-seize or was it worn out washers? glad you mentioned that the Milwaukee one didn't fair much better. I'm thinking switch is wearing out or adding some resistance to the circuit. now we know where Eric's HF impact went to. I've noticed he's back to using air again.
yeah, I manufacture grease oil and antisieze and that looked like one of our competitors , ours is like that but much finer.
@@sailingitlldo1109 thanks.
SMA has sent me to look over your shoulder. A great video, but still leaves a question or two.
YA I'LL SAY, WHAT'S WRONG WITH IT ?
To get a good year and a half of intense daily work out of an economy tool is stellar, and the thing still serves a purpose even though it's wearing out. Harbor Freight is my go-to when I need something Right Now(tm), but I rarely plan on anything I pick up there lasting for more than a few jobs. I'm rethinking this Earthquake impact gun, though!
Awesome stuff, AvE! Thanks! And thanks to Eric O. for the trial patient!
One of your best videos ! Interesting that the "tune up" did not make much improvement.
The long drill driver bits can be had at the local big box lumber'n junk store back near the coil fed screw guns.Senco and Makita coil fed guns in particular use those.Usually #2 Phillips and Robertson drive are availible and sometimes a couple sizes of Torx.
Harbor Freight 2 year replacement plan. No questions asked return it and they give you a new one!
read the fine print for commercial usage I bet.
Scott Tuttle what Harbor Freight doesn’t know ain’t going to hurt them
Nothing about commercial or professional use in there. They don't care bring it in get a new one. They market these as professional tools they can't say professional tools just don't use it in professional environments
did no one watch that poignant section where aVe taught us all a very valuable lesson in morality?
that's way less fun than this
Two of my favorite channels... Love this
Completely agree with and love your explaination about the warranty fraudsters at the end. Applies everywhere in industry, not just tools!!
I agree with you about selling yourself out by crying for warranty, it's hardly worth it. On the other hand, I wouldn't hesitate to write a review, documenting early failure. I wish air tools could be replaced, but they don't seem as prone to early failure as even this iteration of battery powered devices.
I have had 3 snap on and a Milwaukee over the past 20 years. All electric impacts seem to wear quicker than pneumatic. The Milwaukee rated at 1200ft lbs is two years old and today is the first time it would not take a lug nut off or break the stud.
Awesome! I've been patiently waiting for this video to come out ever since Eric said he sent you the tool.
As Eric would say.... There's your problem lady!!
BTW I got my new Ninja and there is a very interesting update in the design: A safety feature that appears to use planetary(guess, I haven't taken mine apart yet) gears to the bottom of the food processor/blender to spin the inside one fast and the outside one slow. If you don't shut it off the proper way it now stops in a quick fast fucking hurry. Might make an interesting teardown.
You my skilled screw wrenching Raskal are one entertaining bastard, and one of my favorite channels the presente moment!
this is the kinds of video I've wanted to see you do for a while now, diagnosed and fix things.
Awesome, so to confirm, it's Eric's fault 😂 thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you. SMA, you and ABOM79 are my go-to tubers.
Never had a T15 bit last me, T20s though, just keeps going
One suggestion would be to replace the brushes with new ones with a harder brush material. If they're warn down enough, the springs might not provide enough spring force to provide enough contact to get adequate/full commutation.
I have a dewalt that I recently burnt the windings out of that I've replaced brushes in several times. There was a noticiable difference between soft brush's that I bought as 'replacements', and brushes that I took out of other universal motors and shaped to fit, which were of course quite a bit stiffer.
"Cosmic balance" being such good friends with karma... as I've gotten older and more (or less) wise, have found those add-on warranties are actually worthwhile on a specific few HF tools you know will get used/abused and highly likely to give up the ghost just shy of it's 1yr anniversary.
There used to be a lube called lubra-plate, silver also, I wonder if that's what's in there, just a guessing.
Have a tube. Antique.
i wonder if you bypassed the trigger on both, would they run at the same speed?
Yes as long as the same battery is used
It is still 400 rpm low... try swapping the speed controls? If it is winding damage in the motor then it won’t be worth fixing. A speed control, possibly.
Might just be conductive (or insulative) dust on the speed control wiper...
I found a hilti corded hammer drill, with the cord cut off off the side of the road on the way to the dump. Tested with new end on cord stub, still no work.
After it sat on my workbench a while, (until I needed a good SDS hammer drill next,) I opened up the speed control trigger mechanism and found the variable resistor wiper was covered with dried on concrete drillings powder... cleaned the whole interior of the speed control with a toothbrush and soapy water, blew it out with a compressor and dried with a blow dryer, and tested it with a new cord.
$250 tool for an hour of my time, a salvaged cord from a blown shop-vac, and 1 cent worth of dish soap.
Switch cleaner would have been a better solvent to use or Isopropyl Alcohol
Love that my two favorite channels got together
My two favorite youtubers,,Eric,Ave,,,peace be with you!
nice been waiting for the SMA UGGA DUGGA tear down!!! AVE & SMA two of my favorites
I tell new people I train at work, if your spider sense is tingling, listen. Best thing I ever learned from RUclips.
Great vijeo, do a video on replacing bad chucks! I have a bad one on my older Milwaukee corded hammer drill
I'd still go for the Milwaukee gun for the 5 year warranty and the fact that I have 15 or so batteries from all my Milwaukee tools.
Harbor Freight keeps changing suppliers and when they do, the batteries no longer have the same interface.
Keep digging AvE...we need to know which component is responsible....
Gotta swap the brain box
Definately the brushes!
@@makitaman382 yes, one of them clearly showing not extending out enough when he had them out.
Totally agree with you on the cosmic balance. Don't screw over companies if they did no wrong.
Very interesting video. I was really contemplating buying this gun but ultimately decided to go with the Ryobi because I didn't want to complicate my personal battery lineup. AND, the extra hit isn't really needed in my home shop. Nastiest item I have is the countershaft sprocket on the motorcycle. That only need a couple hundred foot pounds. The XT was overkill and I expect I'll get many years out of little Ryobi. Good know this beast is out there.
Dear estranged uncle bumblefack, just wanted to say thank you for the stickers. Love em and thoroughly enjoy all the vids. Keep fighting the good fight.
At least one of those brushes was completely worn out, which means one complete winding of the armature was not being lit up by the pixies. When one winding isn't lit up, you're only magnetising half of the lamination stack at a time, cutting the torque output of the motor by half.
I think you'd be surprised at the results after just putting a new set of brushes in.
Ah a South Main Auto piece of royalty right here in British Columbiastan Canada...it's traveled from east to west to be torn apart by the best in the land!
Totally agree about you return philosophy
John
I'm baffled it lasted that long at some real duty type place. Good for HF!
I had a Dewilt impact that had the same symptoms as that. There’s a contact that gives full battery voltage when you give it full chooch on the trigger. It’s past the potentiometer region where the PWM works. The full chooch contact is burned out I’m thinking!
You thought of testing the resistance on the rattler's battery terminals? You have the perfect opportunity with you having it's sexier twin.
Not anti seize but just metal wear. Switch also a common problem that may need to be addressed.
Thank you for mentioning returning stuff. I despise losers that do that. Just costing us ALL more. You aren't getting anything over on anyone!
L on forehead pointed at them...
Dude at South Main Auto is awesome.
Two of my favourite channels 👍
Thanks for the video...and giving you proper props for what you smoo...,errr do. I’ve watched and continue to watch Eric’s and your show with care to allow some of my cranium thingofamagiggy to develop...’ya right’....
Those chinesium auto center punches have a good hit but their tips are the softest metal known to man, got tired of sharpening the tip all the time and got a good Starett, might not hit as hard but definitely leaves a mark even on the toughest metals.
Is that south mains auto gun he sent you? Haha great video man
I noticed that one of the brushes Time reference 11.13 left hand thumb its very very low. And would not have much pressure on it with the com in place. i'm a bit surprised to be honest that wasn't noticed.
True. Out of meat we say.