Pro Tips: World Cup Level Glide Waxing
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- Опубликовано: 1 фев 2025
- Tip:
World Cup level glide waxing performed by our racing service experts. Follow the instructions, and try out how fast your skis really can be!
1. Apply Rex Low Fluor Black glider
2. Scrape off excess wax and brush when still warm
3. Apply Rex High Fluor glider
3. Scrape off excess wax and brush
4. Let the ski cool down
5. Sprinkle powder evenly onto the base
6. Arrange adequate ventilation in the waxing room. It is recommended to always wear a respirator
7. Melt the powder by moving the iron slowly but steadily
8.brush the powder up with short back and forth strokes with a nylon brush
9. iron in with several quick wipes
10. brush the powder up
11. cork in the powder with a rotocork
12. let the ski cool down
13. gently scrape excess fluor off the base
14. brush gently with a horsehair or metal brush
15. brush with nylon rotobrush
16. finish with hand nylon brush. Wipe clean with a cloth
Rex glide wax range: rex.fi/en/glide...
Pro waxing recommandations for different conditions: rex.fi/voiteluo... 
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Is it true the FIS is now banning high fluor waxes (because of their deleterious effects on the environment)?
I'm perplexed by the protocol just a bit. Are you saying that for the base layers and through the process until the final top coat application there is no cooling? It appears that the technician proceeded through all steps without a cooling break.
It’s a hot waxing
You're absolutely right. Best to let the wax soak in to the base and cool to room temperature before scraping.
The middle groove is also in contact with the snow. We want to make sure we get the best glide available.
I think I'll take up snowshoeing instead
Roger that, on the 4:00 Resp.use. Questions need to be asked here, more about protecting the humans from their silly inventions. So what becomes of the residue form PTFE based waxes, as in the stuff on your clothes, hands, the stuff floating around that finds its way into one's eyes, then into your highly tuned system; what of the next user of the facility, do they get a head's up via MSDS sheets? The stuff of wax trailers and vans at big competitions, not to mention the bio accumulation to racers, race techs, coaches,; then people coming into area after the race has finished, to clean up the PTFE garbage left. I am assured by WC waxer, they do not take their garbage with them.
Jim dandy, the chap has a piped in air supply.
So when he leaves the wax room, from his shoes, to wrists to shirt shoulders are covered in dust, nano particles of Perfluorochemicals, PFCs. Handling the roto cork, brushes later, does he use his respirator? Does he enter / exit the Vacuum chamber for cleansing?. Observation of some wax rooms have caused an article in the Scientific American. Not exactly your pedestrian ski mag. Fast skis are only as good provided you go on living.
It is really the vapors from fluoro was that you want to keep from breathing.
Honestly it's there any good ski wax for minus 20 celsius? It seems the snow has become super sticky even my car could drive up a vertical mountain in these conditions.
When the snow can't melt, there's no water.
We glide on water.
Below about -15 C is where it starts getting bad.
Was that a $300 wax job?
We calculated approximately cost for the waxing:
LF Glider 20€, with one box you wax about 20 pairs --> 1€/pair
HF Glider 40€, with one box you wax about 10 pairs --> 4€/pair
Fluoro powder, 80€, with one box you wax about 5 pairs --> 16€/pair
Alltogether that makes 21€/pair. Not much for the same waxing you could get from national teams in world cup?
That's great!
Is it ok to remove dried-on wax by reheating it with an iron, ie, not scraping it off while dry?
Very late reply...but don't do that. The purpose of letting wax dry is for it to become more durable. Re-applying heat removes the wax's durability. Although it's easier, there's a reason we scrape.
If it's tough to scrape off, there are a variety of things you could do:
a) Don't let the wax dry for as long (i.e., 10mins as opposed to 15mins). It won't be as durable, but it'll be easier to scrape
b) Sharpen your plexi scrapers. Think of them like knives: sharper knives cut easier, sharper plexis scrape easier
c) Apply a thinner layer of wax
Scraping off wax also becomes more difficult with waxes meant for colder temperatures as they are less water-based.
why do you iron the middle groove?
What bristles are on the roller brush?
+Brad Laesch That's stainless steel+blue nylon. from Red Creek
What is the Iron temp?
Iron temp here is around 200°C. The hotter the iron, the faster you cand do the melting. Fast application prevents any damage to skis, even though the temps sound quite high.
(initially..)
Should state "Not for the DIY skier." due to arcane tools required. How about a video for the regular Joe/Jill without the fancy power tools?
The thing is that there really isn't one, you pretty much have to do it well or use the fast glide things (hopefully you understand,I have no idea about what they are called in English). I used to go to a local sports store and get my skis waxed there.
Is this poor fellow breathing flourocarbon fumes or does he have a respirator built into his bronchi?
He has a respirator in use. As you can see from 4:00 he uses a Scott Autoflow when applying fluoropowder.