Nice from the manufacturer. i have had some positive experiences with chinese sellers in the past, especially RDtech / rui deng whos selling those switching lab powersupply panels. had one blow a few components that discharge the output caps when turning it off asked them for schematics, they declined but told me to measure a few components they marked on a picture which they sent me. after telling them the values measured, they told me what to replace and its now working fine again. good support is rare, even on local companies, most of them just get greedy and tell to send it in for insane fees.
I use Kester 0.015 63/37 leaded solder for SMD work ..... For other through hole parts I usually double it and twist it with my pen grinder , I made a special hook to put in the pen grinder .... It twists the solder wire in about 2 seconds ..... You did a great job on that soldering task....
Sequre should sponsor you for this.Your video is way better than their page. Kudos to you and a big BOOO to Sequre if they don't send you (at least) a new solder with some tips ;-)
ahah - I am planning to let them know so maybe they could use the video on their page. However, the iron was actually sent for free for the review so I can't complain too much! :) Thanks for watching!
I learned to add extra solder to only one of the two components when bogging on a small SMD like that using an iron. Heck, you might even want to braid away some of the other component’s existing solder. That’s because you can only flow one at a time, and the solid one will keep your bodged component spaced away. If you add extra solder to only one board component and start there, it will anchor and align the bodged component while you add solder to the other side. You can then go back and add flux or fresh solder to the first. The result is closer contact, better alignment, and lower resistance with the bodged component.
Great work, seems like you've got it soldered quite cleanly! I've soldered 24 0402 caps on a video card recently, and it was quite an adventure. The worst problem was that the caps would not hold in place after soldering one joint, I needed to hold them by tweezers while soldering each pin! Otherwise the cap would always end up on the soldering tip. This is why it looked scary to watch you adding solder to the second joint without holding the capacitor in place, but it worked for you, nice! Another problem I faced was solder unwilling to flow nicely to touch both the PCB pad and the cap pin to make reliable contact. Maybe flux in the reason, I used self-made rosin solution in isopropanol. In your case it was not a problem either. Anyway, great work and a nice video, thanks, Tony!
Thank you! I know what you mean, when the SMD component just sticks to the tip and disappears in a blob of solder! I think the trick is the fine tweezers. They give you immense control - but still not super easy. Interesting about the self-made flux, does that have some benefit? I've just got some fake Amtech from China. It smells like chemicals. It smells like "POISON" :D I don't think I'm going to use it! Thanks for watching!
There were 2 reasons I've started making the flux myself. The first is, as you've mentioned, the unknown (and probably quite poisonous) content of Chinese fluxes. I only use a 120mm fan to blow the vapours away and don't want to figure out how bad it is to inhale the flux continuously. btw, I've spotted a fan fixed to the wooden base standing on your desk, have you made it for the same purpose? :) The second reason is factory-made rosin solutions are all(?) _very_ thin, they contain a lot of alcohol and very little rosin. The flux evaporates immediately and does not allow to heat the pad and the pin enough to make a reliable joint. There are gels but they have additional chemicals added and probably, again, more poisonous. And more expensive. So I've made a thick solution, it's like a gel, and normally works great. I soldered 1206 using it without issues. But maybe it's not so good for smaller components. @@tony359
Yes, the fan is there to pull away the fumes, then I have an extraction system to remove them from the room. I know what you mean, I have some of that flux and it's pointless, it evaporates immediately. Cool to know you can make it yourself!
Hi Tony, I personally would have added solder to one joint and removed solder from the other joint prior to putting on the cap. That way when you heat the side with the solder the added cap can be put up close on both sides to the existing parts. Keep up the good work love the vids.
Yes, you are totally right. By doing what I did I didn't allow the cap to get closer to the other component. As I said, I am learning :) Thanks for that!
The ones I am using seem very good. But yes, you need to be careful when using them, store them properly etc. I should add a link in the description. Thanks!
1. The soldering job you did was almost perfect, in my opinion, much better than what LR does (e.g. no huge flux lakes spread everywhere etc.). Some people suggest stupid ideas like removing the old solder, which is completely unnecessary in this particular case etc. You are doing it correct way and I hope you know it. 2. I don't think this resolves the 100V issue, in my opinion this mod is just to slightly calm down things when some poor quality PSU injects some spikes into the circuit making it misbehave. There is no way how this could resolve that 100V issue, because the soldering tip is already at the USB's GND potential (which, in fact, causes that 100V issue). Some of my "China Export" CErtified USB adapters are able to deliver more than 50μA from the USB's GND line to the PE, which is a lot. That 100V reading, which is slightly below the ½ of mains voltage, leads me to conclusion, that (expecting 10MΩ at the input of the voltmeter) that current flowing through the multimeter is somewhere around 10μA, which gives us about 20V drop on the output. 20V drop at 10μA results in 2MΩ output impedance, which gives us 60μA when shorted to ground, which is in fact similar to what I've measured here on my USB adapters (230V mains voltage here). I know this math is not correct, because that output impedance is much more capacitance than being pure resistive, which explains the hum from that speaker (reuploaded video), but I don't want to run into this rabbit hole. In fact, this abt 60μA current is far from being Ahmed the dead terrorist, it doesn't kill you, but potentially this can kill some sensitive device, so, maybe, it's not bad idea to power that thing from USB powerbank when dealing with something sensitive.
Thanks, I appreciate your comment about my soldering skills! Better than Luis Rossman? Oh wow :) No, this mod is definitely not for the 100V issue. I do not know the details but it's as you say for making the iron more reliable. That said, I am now experiencing difficulties with JBC tips - that is, they just stopped working. USB PSUs refuse to power them and my Lenovo 100W PSU only negotiate 5V PD. I'm in touch with Sequre to find out what happened and if this is related to this mod.
Note that the genuine foam grips for T245-C (JBC #0016057, 12$ for 4 pcs) will fit nicely on the S99 giving it much better grip and slip protection. You just need to cut 15-18mm off so not to cover the button.
Hi Tony, Thank you very much for the video I watched two weeks ago. I bought the capacitor and went back to the Skure website, but strangely, the modification is no longer available. Does anyone have information on this, or is it a precaution related to Black Friday to avoid scaring off buyers? In the end, I'm not sure what to do. Is adding this capacitor better or worse?
I think it’s because they now have PCB version 1.4. If you’re on 1.3 I think the mod still applies - I’d send them a message and see what they say. Thank you!
@tony359 display chip built into cable corrupted the stm32 chip in the SEQURE S99 tool. The power supply had been running the tool for months, but the first time i used the 100 watt pd cable with watt meter display it made the display on tool go out(the iron itself worked fine still but without a display). After i got the replacement board i hooked up a STM32 programmer and got the files then loaded them into the old board and it started working fine again( i don't use cables with chips/ displays on them with my SEQURE S99 or S60 not worth the headache) i use the irons on all kinds of repairs and they work great. You need to run the S99 with a 100 watt (phone charger) or 180 watt laptop charger) the 65 watt charger isn't donning it justice at all
Well, they sell it with a 65W one but yes, if a 100W is available it's better. Curiously, the supplied USB cable from Sequre has chips in it :) I somehow feel - guts feeling - that it wasn't the cable to brick your iron but maybe a glitch in the programming itself of the iron?
I just found something. Cables with NO "e-marker" (the chip) are called "passive" and the PSU will limit their power to 3A (21x3 = 63W). For a PSU to go over that it needs the chip which tells the PSU "I am capable of 100W". Only then the PSU will accept to issue more than the passive ones. So "chips" are normal in USB-C cables and are actually expected for high quality ones. This is very new to me, very interesting!
@tony359 my 100 watt GAN power bank can output 100 watts to the S99 with a regular cable because the S99 has the pd detection chip to communicate directly. The cable that came in the kit they gave you doesn't have a wattage display on the cable end. I don't think a pd chipped cable was the problem but the aliexpress 100 watt cable with a non locked display chip able to cross talk on the program pins of the STM32 non locked or protected S99 tool. What happen is the tool rest do to over loading power bank and when it restarted it was over.
I have one problem with this iron. I bought one extra tip for this iron and it works perfect, but the two other tips doesn't work, soldering iron doesn't show any errors, it's trying to heet the tip but temperature jumps from 380 up to 440 celsius (when I setup 360) and barely hit the tip (I can take it with my hand). How can I setup this iron? Or maybe do some adjustments to make it work properly?
@@tony359 Thanks for your reply, I've checked the resistance of working iron tips, it was 5.5 Ω and 2.5 Ω, so this iron is working ok with both types of iron tips, but the two others also have resistance of 2.5 Ω and one of them heats only to 40-50 celsius, and the other could be heated to melt the the solder, I think the problem is with the tips, somehow soldering iron can't measure the exact temperature of this tips.
Thanks - I guess one would need the datasheet to ascertain that? I think mine are 50V and I'm observing some unexpected behaviour with high power tips and PSUs after the mod.
@@tony359 yes, it should be in dataset (at least in a good brand like Murata etc.). For example this GRM155R61E105KA12J 0402 loses almost all (80% decrease) capacitance above 10 V DC.
@@tony359 if you are in the UK you can have a look at Farnell (or digikey, mouser). These are reputable companies offering normal quantities of quality components. (BTW. 0402 50V 1uF seems suspicious)
it's the shipping and "handle fee" which kills me. If I need 1 SMD capacitor, it's going to be £15 on Farnell. It's still horribly expensive on Ebay but with I can get like 20 for £3.
This modification just add 1uF capacitor on V3P3 pin (internal 3.3V LDO) of this IC (FS2711Q - PD controller) which is recommended in datasheet of this IC. Maybe after that soldering iron will work more stable.
@@jerico2794 turns out that my JBC tips only works when the USB tester is plugged in between. They're sending me another one but I'm sceptical. Are you using JBC tips and they work ok?
В протокольном чипе стоит линейный регулятор, который понижает входное напряжение до 3.3В для питания самого чипа. И вот этот кондер ставится на 3.3В, для улучшения PSRR (power supply ripple rejection) Если его нету, то там сильно лихорадит не только входное напряжение, но и 3.3В, которые должны быть хорошо стабилизированы. Ну и чип дохнет. У него несколько задача состоит в частотной компенсации обратной связи в линейном регуляторе. Условно, благодаря этому кондеру обеспечивается более стабильная работа этой обратной связи
Nice from the manufacturer.
i have had some positive experiences with chinese sellers in the past, especially RDtech / rui deng whos selling those switching lab powersupply panels.
had one blow a few components that discharge the output caps when turning it off
asked them for schematics, they declined but told me to measure a few components they marked on a picture which they sent me.
after telling them the values measured, they told me what to replace and its now working fine again.
good support is rare, even on local companies, most of them just get greedy and tell to send it in for insane fees.
Yes, that's why I didn't feel like pointing the fingers at them.
I use Kester 0.015 63/37 leaded solder for SMD work ..... For other through hole parts I usually double it and twist it with my pen grinder , I made a special hook to put in the pen grinder .... It twists the solder wire in about 2 seconds ..... You did a great job on that soldering task....
Sequre should sponsor you for this.Your video is way better than their page. Kudos to you and a big BOOO to Sequre if they don't send you (at least) a new solder with some tips ;-)
ahah - I am planning to let them know so maybe they could use the video on their page. However, the iron was actually sent for free for the review so I can't complain too much! :) Thanks for watching!
I learned to add extra solder to only one of the two components when bogging on a small SMD like that using an iron. Heck, you might even want to braid away some of the other component’s existing solder. That’s because you can only flow one at a time, and the solid one will keep your bodged component spaced away.
If you add extra solder to only one board component and start there, it will anchor and align the bodged component while you add solder to the other side. You can then go back and add flux or fresh solder to the first. The result is closer contact, better alignment, and lower resistance with the bodged component.
yes, that's probably a better approach! :)
Great work, seems like you've got it soldered quite cleanly!
I've soldered 24 0402 caps on a video card recently, and it was quite an adventure. The worst problem was that the caps would not hold in place after soldering one joint, I needed to hold them by tweezers while soldering each pin! Otherwise the cap would always end up on the soldering tip. This is why it looked scary to watch you adding solder to the second joint without holding the capacitor in place, but it worked for you, nice!
Another problem I faced was solder unwilling to flow nicely to touch both the PCB pad and the cap pin to make reliable contact. Maybe flux in the reason, I used self-made rosin solution in isopropanol. In your case it was not a problem either.
Anyway, great work and a nice video, thanks, Tony!
Thank you! I know what you mean, when the SMD component just sticks to the tip and disappears in a blob of solder!
I think the trick is the fine tweezers. They give you immense control - but still not super easy. Interesting about the self-made flux, does that have some benefit? I've just got some fake Amtech from China. It smells like chemicals. It smells like "POISON" :D I don't think I'm going to use it!
Thanks for watching!
There were 2 reasons I've started making the flux myself. The first is, as you've mentioned, the unknown (and probably quite poisonous) content of Chinese fluxes. I only use a 120mm fan to blow the vapours away and don't want to figure out how bad it is to inhale the flux continuously. btw, I've spotted a fan fixed to the wooden base standing on your desk, have you made it for the same purpose? :)
The second reason is factory-made rosin solutions are all(?) _very_ thin, they contain a lot of alcohol and very little rosin. The flux evaporates immediately and does not allow to heat the pad and the pin enough to make a reliable joint. There are gels but they have additional chemicals added and probably, again, more poisonous. And more expensive.
So I've made a thick solution, it's like a gel, and normally works great. I soldered 1206 using it without issues. But maybe it's not so good for smaller components.
@@tony359
Yes, the fan is there to pull away the fumes, then I have an extraction system to remove them from the room.
I know what you mean, I have some of that flux and it's pointless, it evaporates immediately. Cool to know you can make it yourself!
Hi Tony, I personally would have added solder to one joint and removed solder from the other joint prior to putting on the cap.
That way when you heat the side with the solder the added cap can be put up close on both sides to the existing parts.
Keep up the good work love the vids.
Yes, you are totally right. By doing what I did I didn't allow the cap to get closer to the other component. As I said, I am learning :) Thanks for that!
Nice that you fix your soldering iron. Little SMD can be difficult. Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands
Thanks for watching, Steven!
Great work! Much better than the 0402 I put back onto a board. I need some fine tweezers but I know they'll just get bent the second I use them 🙈
The ones I am using seem very good. But yes, you need to be careful when using them, store them properly etc. I should add a link in the description. Thanks!
1. The soldering job you did was almost perfect, in my opinion, much better than what LR does (e.g. no huge flux lakes spread everywhere etc.). Some people suggest stupid ideas like removing the old solder, which is completely unnecessary in this particular case etc. You are doing it correct way and I hope you know it.
2. I don't think this resolves the 100V issue, in my opinion this mod is just to slightly calm down things when some poor quality PSU injects some spikes into the circuit making it misbehave. There is no way how this could resolve that 100V issue, because the soldering tip is already at the USB's GND potential (which, in fact, causes that 100V issue). Some of my "China Export" CErtified USB adapters are able to deliver more than 50μA from the USB's GND line to the PE, which is a lot. That 100V reading, which is slightly below the ½ of mains voltage, leads me to conclusion, that (expecting 10MΩ at the input of the voltmeter) that current flowing through the multimeter is somewhere around 10μA, which gives us about 20V drop on the output. 20V drop at 10μA results in 2MΩ output impedance, which gives us 60μA when shorted to ground, which is in fact similar to what I've measured here on my USB adapters (230V mains voltage here). I know this math is not correct, because that output impedance is much more capacitance than being pure resistive, which explains the hum from that speaker (reuploaded video), but I don't want to run into this rabbit hole.
In fact, this abt 60μA current is far from being Ahmed the dead terrorist, it doesn't kill you, but potentially this can kill some sensitive device, so, maybe, it's not bad idea to power that thing from USB powerbank when dealing with something sensitive.
Thanks, I appreciate your comment about my soldering skills! Better than Luis Rossman? Oh wow :)
No, this mod is definitely not for the 100V issue. I do not know the details but it's as you say for making the iron more reliable. That said, I am now experiencing difficulties with JBC tips - that is, they just stopped working. USB PSUs refuse to power them and my Lenovo 100W PSU only negotiate 5V PD. I'm in touch with Sequre to find out what happened and if this is related to this mod.
Nice job bro. Will do mine asap .
Amazing thanks!
Enjoyed the video!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!
Note that the genuine foam grips for T245-C (JBC #0016057, 12$ for 4 pcs) will fit nicely on the S99 giving it much better grip and slip protection.
You just need to cut 15-18mm off so not to cover the button.
Good idea, thanks!
Hi Tony,
Thank you very much for the video I watched two weeks ago. I bought the capacitor and went back to the Skure website, but strangely, the modification is no longer available. Does anyone have information on this, or is it a precaution related to Black Friday to avoid scaring off buyers?
In the end, I'm not sure what to do. Is adding this capacitor better or worse?
I think it’s because they now have PCB version 1.4. If you’re on 1.3 I think the mod still applies - I’d send them a message and see what they say. Thank you!
I had a 1.3 board get bricked because of a type c cable that has a wattage display on the cable end. SEQURE sent me another board though
Really? Why would that brick the USB iron? Not questioning, just curious.
@tony359 display chip built into cable corrupted the stm32 chip in the SEQURE S99 tool. The power supply had been running the tool for months, but the first time i used the 100 watt pd cable with watt meter display it made the display on tool go out(the iron itself worked fine still but without a display). After i got the replacement board i hooked up a STM32 programmer and got the files then loaded them into the old board and it started working fine again( i don't use cables with chips/ displays on them with my SEQURE S99 or S60 not worth the headache) i use the irons on all kinds of repairs and they work great. You need to run the S99 with a 100 watt (phone charger)
or 180 watt laptop charger) the 65 watt charger isn't donning it justice at all
Well, they sell it with a 65W one but yes, if a 100W is available it's better.
Curiously, the supplied USB cable from Sequre has chips in it :) I somehow feel - guts feeling - that it wasn't the cable to brick your iron but maybe a glitch in the programming itself of the iron?
I just found something. Cables with NO "e-marker" (the chip) are called "passive" and the PSU will limit their power to 3A (21x3 = 63W). For a PSU to go over that it needs the chip which tells the PSU "I am capable of 100W". Only then the PSU will accept to issue more than the passive ones.
So "chips" are normal in USB-C cables and are actually expected for high quality ones. This is very new to me, very interesting!
@tony359 my 100 watt GAN power bank can output 100 watts to the S99 with a regular cable because the S99 has the pd detection chip to communicate directly. The cable that came in the kit they gave you doesn't have a wattage display on the cable end. I don't think a pd chipped cable was the problem but the aliexpress 100 watt cable with a non locked display chip able to cross talk on the program pins of the STM32 non locked or protected S99 tool. What happen is the tool rest do to over loading power bank and when it restarted it was over.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
у меня паяльник перестал выходить из режима сна, полагаю, дело в акселерометре. где он расположен на плате и какое у него наименование?
I cannot help you I'm afraid. Why not sending a message to Sequre?
@tony359 написал сначала продавцу на Алиэкспресс, после они дали почту поддержки, написала туда, жду ответа
Nice!
I have one problem with this iron. I bought one extra tip for this iron and it works perfect, but the two other tips doesn't work, soldering iron doesn't show any errors, it's trying to heet the tip but temperature jumps from 380 up to 440 celsius (when I setup 360) and barely hit the tip (I can take it with my hand). How can I setup this iron? Or maybe do some adjustments to make it work properly?
I don't know to be honest, sorry!
@@tony359 Thanks for your reply, I've checked the resistance of working iron tips, it was 5.5 Ω and 2.5 Ω, so this iron is working ok with both types of iron tips, but the two others also have resistance of 2.5 Ω and one of them heats only to 40-50 celsius, and the other could be heated to melt the the solder, I think the problem is with the tips, somehow soldering iron can't measure the exact temperature of this tips.
A note for people using 0402, make sure that 1 uF does not have too much of DC bias (lowered capacitance on higher DC voltage).
Thanks - I guess one would need the datasheet to ascertain that? I think mine are 50V and I'm observing some unexpected behaviour with high power tips and PSUs after the mod.
@@tony359 yes, it should be in dataset (at least in a good brand like Murata etc.). For example this GRM155R61E105KA12J 0402 loses almost all (80% decrease) capacitance above 10 V DC.
@@GK-dd5ci I bought mine from Ebay - impossible to buy from a bigger supplier in small quantities.
@@tony359 if you are in the UK you can have a look at Farnell (or digikey, mouser). These are reputable companies offering normal quantities of quality components. (BTW. 0402 50V 1uF seems suspicious)
it's the shipping and "handle fee" which kills me. If I need 1 SMD capacitor, it's going to be £15 on Farnell.
It's still horribly expensive on Ebay but with I can get like 20 for £3.
This modification just add 1uF capacitor on V3P3 pin (internal 3.3V LDO) of this IC (FS2711Q - PD controller) which is recommended in datasheet of this IC. Maybe after that soldering iron will work more stable.
Interesting. After the mod my JBC tips stopped working - I'm in touch with Sequre to find out what happened...
@@tony359 It's weird because I also did this mod and everything is fine)
@@jerico2794 turns out that my JBC tips only works when the USB tester is plugged in between. They're sending me another one but I'm sceptical. Are you using JBC tips and they work ok?
Хорошее видео. Но я одного не пойму: а что за проблему должен решить этот конденсатор?
I do not know! Sequre website is very vague about that.
В протокольном чипе стоит линейный регулятор, который понижает входное напряжение до 3.3В для питания самого чипа. И вот этот кондер ставится на 3.3В, для улучшения PSRR (power supply ripple rejection)
Если его нету, то там сильно лихорадит не только входное напряжение, но и 3.3В, которые должны быть хорошо стабилизированы. Ну и чип дохнет.
У него несколько задача состоит в частотной компенсации обратной связи в линейном регуляторе. Условно, благодаря этому кондеру обеспечивается более стабильная работа этой обратной связи
@@megapro1725 thanks for adding the extra info!
I think I'll stick with my Pinecil.
it's a nice iron for sure!
Я это сделал а можно вопрос что это теперь мне дает?
I am not sure, I think it's just a preventative action, the manufacturer of one of the ICs on the board requires that capacitor.
I think I'll just stick with my 1971 Weller WP-25.
Weller is Weller :)
you are missing out by not using iron with integrated heater element