The 'T' button is for getting the gears into mesh - hold the gear lever to the direction you're trying to select and just give the T button a brief jab.
wtf? its for Threading! Tapping! i cant see a T anywhere in "lining gear teeth up to mesh cleanly". you nudge the CHUCK when it wont slide into gear... man. i was making a living rebuilding headstocks due to people doing exactly what you suggest.... thanks for keeping me in business ;)
I bought the PM1440HD, nice machine for a hobby/repair shop. Matt was fine to work with. A lot of machine and accessories for the price. The pros: good range of spindle speeds especially having the 40rpm slow one, gear boxes were all clean inside, fit & finish on the outside is very nice. Came with face plate, 3 & 4 jaw chucks that were reasonably clean inside, 2 dead & 1 live centers, 3 to 5 MT sleeve, steady & follow rests that are quite stout with brass tips, 4 change gears, DRO, D1-4 cam-lock (OK for my use but a D1-5 or 6 would seem like a better choice for this size machine.) Matt changed out the Chinese motor for a Polish made 3 phase. Other things noted: At 2700#s be prepared to handle it! The electrical cabinet/box is really crowded, The machine came with MT4 live center and drill chuck but the tail stock is MT3?? Matt replaced them with #3MT and with a better drill chuck. 5 BAX tool holders that are OK if you replace the set screws with good ones. The lead screw had a steel spring pin instead of the brass shear pin that should have been there, now fixed. Some of the controls were very stiff originally but have now smoothed up in their operation. The gear train has quieted down now that it has been run in. Since this has an 8tpi lead screw, the choices of metric threads are limited. The carriage stop is poorly designed. I made a new one. Options I bought: taper attachment, collet chuck (very nice!) & a set of 5C collets. A better machine than I am a machinist!
I have a few very minor seeps, but no real leaks. The overall quality is pretty good, but the raw castings could be better. It’s proven to be a good machine so far. I use it fairly regularly.
dieselshadowman despite the headaches of the leaks, all the important tolerances and machining to ensure the axis’s are all correct, were done very well. I have to agree, nicest lathe I ever owned
7:14 i am brand new to lathes and this video was very helpful. what do you mean engaging feeds at the same time? 1 is to cut threads but what is the 2nd feed for?
the only problem with this lathe is the saddle wheel being in the front as I prefer them to the rear so you do not get swarf over the left hand, it can be dangerous,but the rest looks good. mine was a Colchester 18-80 I now have a smaller one after the same type as I am retired
Am I wrong? I think it's wired up backward. I have never seen a lathe run fwd pushing the lever down. Nice machine, good video. Your machine, your preference. When referring to swarf, you must use a British accent. That is law. Lol
I just happened to run into you. The date is July 2021, Mathew Precision and just got this updated Lathe PM1130. It looks 👌 nice and I think it will turn out as a good hobby 😀 unit. Your Lathe, so what types of projects are you doing??
I use my large for general fabrication and repairs in my shop. You just never know what I’m using it for. Currently I have a brake drum on it off of a John Deere model 60 that I’m slowly restoring. 👍🏼
My dad just bought a similar lathe, only problem is it won’t let us move the carriage on the X axis manually, it only engages with the sleeve and moves back and forth as needed but when we rotate the lever to move it it won’t go. Any thoughts?
It’s Chinese for sure. But it’s built to the higher spec called for by Precision Mathews. The Chinese will build you anything you want. Cheap is cheap. Good is good. This lathe has a good balance of both. If you want the best, look at their Taiwanese lathes for about double the price. There is a big difference.
Thanks for the video. I plan to get this machine for the university though am quite demoralized that, in searching for a new lathe, the vast majority of them are made in China so that no matter which one you buy, they are all substandard in design and quality. I'd rather buy a vintage clausing or southbend fully restored but the university would not accept it. While it's true that you get what you pay for, it's sad to think that, in this day and age, we have the most advanced machine tools ever created with 5 axis, extreme accuracies, and high speed machining yet the manual lathes made today are worse in design and quality than they were in the past. How is that possible? Car designs are being improved practically 24/7 yet lathes made today are clunky, lack accuracy, and always need to be "upgraded" in some way. If we did this to a new car, we would not buy them. Anyway, and considering all the lathes I looked at online, the PM-1440E-LB *looks like* it was made better than all the others for at $7.5K Just as we have car lots, I wish we had machine tool lots. lol
i hope you never contemplated any of the common 12x36 gap beds as the tailstock renders them useless and theres not much to be done about it as they ALL seem to be the same. wish i had noticed it when i bought it, i would have gone up a size where it isnt an issue... if its for a uni... someones going to crash it. and whilst it may be taxpayer money.... yeah. i thought universities were places of education but it appears in this day and age their places of indoctrinated stupidity. hear hear about quality. but remember, that old clausing/brown&Sharpe, cinci, etc? it probably cost the equivalent of 5X when new... they were built and intended for production. these days theyre built for hobbyists and low volume work in a shop that probably has a bench grinder and plasma cutter next to it and never gets covered or cleaned.
Looks like a really nice lathe and it's not a beginner model so you won't outgrow it. One question, does anyone who buys one of these newer lathes from whatever maker actually use the safety cover over the chuck? It's like a saw guard on a table saw, they have to come with them but I don't know a single person who actually uses them.
Honestly, I wanted to remove mine before I ever ran it. It’s rather large and “in your face.” However after looking at the setup and what it would’ve taken to jump out the safety circuit, I decided to wait until later. Now I’ve found I appreciate it being there. The guard prevents me from leaving a chuck key in and starting the lathe. It also keeps a lot of swarf and lubricant from splashing on me during operations. So now I think I’m going to leave it in place. It seems to work well for me.
Fair enough. There are spring loaded chuck keys that won't stay in on their own, but if it works as a partial splash guard as well, it might not be so bad. I might still bypass the actual switch just to make it my option.
@@dieselshadow what? i think mine still only has the wires twisted together and wrapped in a bit of tape... ;) whislt i have it open i might change that...
Can you explain the third chart on the front of the lathe? It looks to be a chart that changes the speed of the tool post i.e. saddle when the lath is not being used to cut threads ...
nice machine may I ask where is quality machine tools how do I find it on line I type it in my search engine and get all kind of companies except quality machine tools
I use it on a regular basis, not everyday or even every week sometimes, but pretty regularly. It has had zero issues at all. This has been a very good tool and investment honestly. It’s not the highest quality machine mind you, it has some paint flaws and minor casting flaws where it doesn’t matter. All the stuff that does matter works well and has held up to my use. I don’t see any real long term issues with it either. I am contemplating maybe installing a 3 phase AC motor and VFD for even more spindle speed control. But that’s another video and another bag of money. 😆
dieselshadowman Can I ask if a 13 x 40 Model with the variable speed controls would maybe be a better buy to avoid later having to add 3 phase motor & vfd? I’m presently considering this metric equivalent that seems to be a sister lathe possibly even from the same Chinese factory. www.machineryhouse.com.au/L555D I have to say I am surprised greatly at how noisy yours is in high gear, such that I suspect it might drive me crazy if I were using it all the time, I found it “irritating” while you were filming & speaking because it was so loud. The same demonstration in low gear would have been far more enjoyable to watch I suspect. Now I have to take a trip down to machinery house and listen to the one I’m interested in to see if it’s as loud as yours as that might be a deal breaker for me. I wouldn’t be able to hear myself think over that din. Maybe it’s just that your camera microphone picked up the sound & exacerbated it? Maybe if you have a sound decibel app on your smart phone you could measure the noise level when operating. Part of my thinks if they aren’t tapered roller bearings on that 2 inch spindle, maybe they are ball race bearings and possibly not well packed with grease or not being properly oil lubricated or something? Surely it shouldn’t be that noisy?
@@ianmoone2359 I have a PM1440HD so not the same machine but similar. Bearings are tapered roller and lubed by the main gear case oil. I think that is the most common on this size lathe. If you have something that uses grease it is better to not pack it fully as that will cause more heat buildup. Gear noise will go down as the gears wear in but at top speed they will likely still be rather loud. They are spur gears. Expensive lathes may have spiral cut gears. But you are looking at several times the cost. Thing is you will very rarely use top speed. Maybe for polishing or very small work. You will find a slow rpm more useful than a faster one. My slowest speed is 40rpm. There are enough gears that I haven't wanted a variable speed. It might be nice for facing large diameters but some caution about spinning something large should be used. 3 phase motors are always preferable to single. Smoother power, longer life, simple design, can be variable speeded. Top speed is dependent on the bearings and dynamic balance. Slow speed by heat dissipation and perhaps the winding configuration. 6 wire, 3 phase motors can be switched between wye and delta using a timer and two contactors to reduce inrush current. Common practice in places with shitty power and maybe useful for VFDs. If you go the VFD route I would use the rotary rather than the static. You can make your own rotary very simply. Try not to electrocute yourself!
I had never used a metal lathe when I got my PM1440HD, a bit intimidating at first but really pretty logical when you play with it a bit. Lots to learn to be good with it.
Yeah I figured it was bxa. I was just wondering if bxa will take 5/8 or 3/4 tool holders. I also plan on getting the 935tv mill. Perfect size for gunsmithing.
@DieselShadowMAn: now that you hd some time behind this machine. any 2 years later Pro's / Cons. wish you would have or wish not? im considering the same E model. -Sam
I would definitely buy this machine again. It has been smooth, powerful, and plenty capable for all of my general projects. Now I'm not a full-on production guy or a precision machinist (like I pretend to be LOL), but this machine does everything I need and more. If you are a gunsmith or a production shop, or the most precise machinist that needs the best, I would look at PM's Taiwanese machines for even better features and a better fit and finish. Of course the price will go up accordingly.
1: did you keep it stock as delivered? 2: have you made any mods or additions since. 3: the chip tray. is it easy to empty? (Looks like the DRO cables were laying in the tray. getting mixed in with the chips) 4: whats the actual travel on the compound? I have several other lathes Im about to let go in lou of this possible lathe. thanks so much for the info. Again thanks.
Sam, no problem. 1, yes, it is stock except for the cardboard splash guard I added. 2, See 1, no mods. All of my dollars have been spent on tooling. The machine is complete and really doesn't need anything. 3, Yes, no problem. And yes, the cables are in the tray, but not a big deal. They are all kind of like this. 4, I don't have an actual measurement handy, but I know it's a couple of inches. An exact number should be able to be found in the specs on PM's website or a quick call to them. Who knows, maybe this has changed in the last few years as well? Doubtful, but possible. If you were local or close, I'd say come take a look at it yourself. It's a great machine and I'm glad to own it.
All good Info. thanks for taking the time to answer. Im guessing by your other posts were not neighbors. Im in Central FLA. (TampaBay) you im guessing much further north of me!. Otherwise I would mist certainly take you up on the "come see". :) If you dont mind what kind of tooling did you buy? -Sam
Sam, I've bought tooling from everyone including PM. They are dealers for a lot of the major brands and carry stuff that's not so critical to have name brand stuff. Then I also get stuff from Travers and several other online vendors. Yeah, i'm in the Nashville general area. if you are ever in the neighborhood and wanting some great live music and a cold beer....
looks virtually identical to the al336 from H&F..., the standard gap bed 12x36... except for the one crucial feature which is what im always looking at now... the tailstocks done properly on these. take a look at the aforementioned model and see if you can see it... even the latest PM 12x36 does it. they all come from the same factory after all. ive noticed a very old PM 12x36 seemed to be "correct". i have contemplated trying to get one shipped over, but ive decided its better to fire my furnace up, practise my timber work skills, start mashing up some more greensand... and make a lever/ram type with a shaper/slotter affair instead. now ive added a DRO... its even worse. absolutely kills me, makes me not want to use it, as working between centers is an absolute nightmare. actually, this is probably a rebranded version of the al346/al356. that little bit bigger. and the taisltocks done properly!
You’ll need to visit Precision Mathews website or give them a call for accurate pricing. I bought mine several years ago now so I couldn’t give you a current price.
Have you researched PM or Quality Machine Tool? I too was in your spot. I did a ton of research and came to a conclusion that led me to my purchase. Matt and his crew will answer your questions as they not only sell Precision Mathews, but actually set the standards and specs for these particular machines. You clearly get more for your dollar with QMT. Grizzly makes a fine machine, but PM outshines them in all arenas in my humble opinion.
I have a Grizzly G0776, that lathe is nearly that lathe exactly. I can tell they are built by the same Chinaman. I'm very happy with mine and that PM is very nice as well.
I️ would recommend you call or visit Precision Mathews website for the latest prices and availability. The price depends on the options and extras you decide to get with your new lathe.
Sure, anything is possible. It would be difficult to do since the carriage slides along that screw. I suppose you could add a boot of some kind. Just know that these are pretty much exposed on all lathes and there aren’t really any provisions to mount any kind of guard. Using a large can be very dangerous and does require 100% of your attention when in use. 👍🏼
today is all chines is hard ti find a metal lathe wasnt made in china,a l going to get formy shop a nardini metal lathe Brand new nardini is a Factory in Brasil and made very good machine insustrial grade ,this machine is a hobby machine
Yeah, until you pay for the shipping/ import broker (crooks), taxes, duties, and delivery, then congratulations.. you just jumped through all those hoops and wound up paying more than buying it from PM. I've been through it a couple times now, and I've learned my lesson.
I looked very hard at Grizzly machines, darn near bought a G0709. However, the features, warranty, customer service and support were surpassed by Matt at Quality Machine Tool. I'm not knocking Grizzly at all, but I'm very happy with the PM-1440E-LB lathe purchase I made. Grizzly couldn't answer all of my questions about their equipment and admitted that the vast majority of their business is woodworking equipment. QMT deals only in machine tool equipment. There is a difference when you go to a specialist. I encourage you to see for yourself.
I will, I'm still researching. The G0709 is what I was looking at but I want the DRO factory installed. You don't get the outboard spider on PM stuff but you probably know how to make one.
I'm in the market right now for one and I keep finding youtube reviews of various Griz models with unimpressive responses. In one video a guy took the carriage assembly off the rails and did a blue test with poor results. You get what you pay for.
Chinese machine tools are bad news. This model is marketed under a half dozen names, PM, Grizzly, Harbor Freight etc. It's greatest shortcoming is plastic gears. This is a lathe for hobbyists at most. There are many machinists that wouldn't work on these. In a busy shop, it wouldn't last the day. This isn't an industrial caliber machine and It's dangerous.
This couldn’t be further from the truth. Yes, it is made in China, but no, Precision Machine doesn’t have exact copies of all other machines out there. Matt specs them better and has them built to higher standards. You can get whatever you want from China, if you pay for it. There is no plastic gears within this lathe. I can’t speak to all PM machines, but this one is very solid and would absolutely do fine for any hobbyist or even some commercial use. If my shop was a machine shop and I used it all day everyday, then I would’ve upgraded to one of PMs Taiwanese lathes.
1 Flick, You really should know what you are talking about before you post. Change gears are metal, I doubt that anyone thinks they are getting a super deluxe Chinese lathe for this price. I opened all the compartments when I got it to make sure they were clean, they were. Gears & shafts looked fine. I have not detected any chatter in the spindle even during quite aggressive cuts in 4130. Dangerous? Yes, but I can't see why it would be anymore so than any other lathe of this size. A machine of this power can not be stopped just by winding up your sleeve in it. The foot brake is instant. I always thread away from the chuck. When roughing I use inserted tooling at high enough DOC and feed speeds to form the proper chip. Most of the time I finish with HSS so I can sneak up on final. Have you ever used a PM1440? I've never used a mini lathe but I'm pretty sure they likely put price above all else, is that what you are experienced on? I'm retired from my manufacturing business, fully expect my 1440 to out last me.
The 'T' button is for getting the gears into mesh - hold the gear lever to the direction you're trying to select and just give the T button a brief jab.
YOUR !! LAUGHING ! When that ! FAILS !!
wtf? its for Threading! Tapping! i cant see a T anywhere in "lining gear teeth up to mesh cleanly".
you nudge the CHUCK when it wont slide into gear...
man. i was making a living rebuilding headstocks due to people doing exactly what you suggest.... thanks for keeping me in business ;)
I bought the PM1440HD, nice machine for a hobby/repair shop. Matt was fine to work with. A lot of machine and accessories for the price. The pros: good range of spindle speeds especially having the 40rpm slow one, gear boxes were all clean inside, fit & finish on the outside is very nice. Came with face plate, 3 & 4 jaw chucks that were reasonably clean inside, 2 dead & 1 live centers, 3 to 5 MT sleeve, steady & follow rests that are quite stout with brass tips, 4 change gears, DRO, D1-4 cam-lock (OK for my use but a D1-5 or 6 would seem like a better choice for this size machine.) Matt changed out the Chinese motor for a Polish made 3 phase. Other things noted: At 2700#s be prepared to handle it! The electrical cabinet/box is really crowded, The machine came with MT4 live center and drill chuck but the tail stock is MT3?? Matt replaced them with #3MT and with a better drill chuck. 5 BAX tool holders that are OK if you replace the set screws with good ones. The lead screw had a steel spring pin instead of the brass shear pin that should have been there, now fixed. Some of the controls were very stiff originally but have now smoothed up in their operation. The gear train has quieted down now that it has been run in. Since this has an 8tpi lead screw, the choices of metric threads are limited. The carriage stop is poorly designed. I made a new one. Options I bought: taper attachment, collet chuck (very nice!) & a set of 5C collets. A better machine than I am a machinist!
Thanks for the vid ,Your PM lathe looks exactly like my Bolton 1440G, Bought it new in 2015 for 4k. Later from Texas,
It's just a CLONE ! COPY !!
My PM1236 leaked like crazy, nothing like redoing the gaskets, and even finding a couple of broken taps in the castings
I have a few very minor seeps, but no real leaks. The overall quality is pretty good, but the raw castings could be better. It’s proven to be a good machine so far. I use it fairly regularly.
dieselshadowman despite the headaches of the leaks, all the important tolerances and machining to ensure the axis’s are all correct, were done very well. I have to agree, nicest lathe I ever owned
Because BROKEN Taps ! Are put there for your !. Pleasure !
Very comprehensive and professional review, thanks a lot!
7:14 i am brand new to lathes and this video was very helpful. what do you mean engaging feeds at the same time? 1 is to cut threads but what is the 2nd feed for?
the only problem with this lathe is the saddle wheel being in the front as I prefer them to the rear so you do not get swarf over the left hand, it can be dangerous,but the rest looks good. mine was a Colchester 18-80 I now have a smaller one after the same type as I am retired
I got the same lathe without the spindle safety shield. Nice lathe but the lamp is cheap and it never worked.
And Big Noses ! Too !
Am I wrong? I think it's wired up backward. I have never seen a lathe run fwd pushing the lever down. Nice machine, good video. Your machine, your preference. When referring to swarf, you must use a British accent. That is law. Lol
So what's law about it !?? Then ! It's junk ! Coming off you CLEARLY ! Don't want ANYMORE !!
Two things to do, get rid of the chuck guard and install a four jaw chuck.
Four jaw chuck; yes. It's generally a bad idea to remove guards though. ;o)
@@danh5150 ESPECIALLY ! if your NOSE ! IS ! BIG !!
I just happened to run into you. The date is July 2021, Mathew Precision and just got this updated Lathe PM1130. It looks 👌 nice and I think it will turn out as a good hobby 😀 unit. Your Lathe, so what types of projects are you doing??
I use my large for general fabrication and repairs in my shop. You just never know what I’m using it for. Currently I have a brake drum on it off of a John Deere model 60 that I’m slowly restoring. 👍🏼
Just having it for Projects
Headstock makes an amazing BONG when you use it.
Hey Bo
gonna buy a lathe soon I'm a everyday person so what turned you off mate
I have the same lathe. love it!
I love it.
Hi mike
Love it even more ! By putting it in the Metal Shreadder !
My dad just bought a similar lathe, only problem is it won’t let us move the carriage on the X axis manually, it only engages with the sleeve and moves back and forth as needed but when we rotate the lever to move it it won’t go. Any thoughts?
Sounds like it NEEDS ! The Metal Shreadder ! STRAIGHT ! AWAY !
Do you know if it's a Chinese built machine or the preferred Taiwanese built?
Thanks for the video.
It’s Chinese for sure. But it’s built to the higher spec called for by Precision Mathews. The Chinese will build you anything you want. Cheap is cheap. Good is good. This lathe has a good balance of both. If you want the best, look at their Taiwanese lathes for about double the price. There is a big difference.
Xi Jinping built it ! To kill you !
I'm still having issues with my chucks.
And BIG ! NOSE ! TOO !!
Thanks for the video. I plan to get this machine for the university though am quite demoralized that, in searching for a new lathe, the vast majority of them are made in China so that no matter which one you buy, they are all substandard in design and quality. I'd rather buy a vintage clausing or southbend fully restored but the university would not accept it. While it's true that you get what you pay for, it's sad to think that, in this day and age, we have the most advanced machine tools ever created with 5 axis, extreme accuracies, and high speed machining yet the manual lathes made today are worse in design and quality than they were in the past. How is that possible? Car designs are being improved practically 24/7 yet lathes made today are clunky, lack accuracy, and always need to be "upgraded" in some way. If we did this to a new car, we would not buy them. Anyway, and considering all the lathes I looked at online, the PM-1440E-LB *looks like* it was made better than all the others for at $7.5K Just as we have car lots, I wish we had machine tool lots. lol
i hope you never contemplated any of the common 12x36 gap beds as the tailstock renders them useless and theres not much to be done about it as they ALL seem to be the same.
wish i had noticed it when i bought it, i would have gone up a size where it isnt an issue...
if its for a uni... someones going to crash it. and whilst it may be taxpayer money....
yeah. i thought universities were places of education but it appears in this day and age their places of indoctrinated stupidity.
hear hear about quality. but remember, that old clausing/brown&Sharpe, cinci, etc? it probably cost the equivalent of 5X when new... they were built and intended for production.
these days theyre built for hobbyists and low volume work in a shop that probably has a bench grinder and plasma cutter next to it and never gets covered or cleaned.
Looks like a really nice lathe and it's not a beginner model so you won't outgrow it. One question, does anyone who buys one of these newer lathes from whatever maker actually use the safety cover over the chuck? It's like a saw guard on a table saw, they have to come with them but I don't know a single person who actually uses them.
Honestly, I wanted to remove mine before I ever ran it. It’s rather large and “in your face.” However after looking at the setup and what it would’ve taken to jump out the safety circuit, I decided to wait until later. Now I’ve found I appreciate it being there. The guard prevents me from leaving a chuck key in and starting the lathe. It also keeps a lot of swarf and lubricant from splashing on me during operations. So now I think I’m going to leave it in place. It seems to work well for me.
Fair enough. There are spring loaded chuck keys that won't stay in on their own, but if it works as a partial splash guard as well, it might not be so bad. I might still bypass the actual switch just to make it my option.
You should put it straight into the Metal Shreadder !
@@dieselshadow what? i think mine still only has the wires twisted together and wrapped in a bit of tape... ;)
whislt i have it open i might change that...
Can you explain the third chart on the front of the lathe? It looks to be a chart that changes the speed of the tool post i.e. saddle when the lath is not being used to cut threads ...
Sorry it took so long to reply....
The three charts on the front of the headstock are imperial threading, metric threading, and feeds/rev.
No ! There for telling youTO ! DO NOT ! USE ! THIS !! LATHE !!
Man that baby looks smooth as hell i love it !!!!!!
nice machine may I ask where is quality machine tools how do I find it on line I type it in my search engine and get all kind of companies except quality machine tools
They have a new website and can be found here www.precisionmatthews.com/
Thanks for pointing this out, I'll update the description with a new link.
I notice this video is a couple of years old. How has it held up for you? Have you used it a lot?
I use it on a regular basis, not everyday or even every week sometimes, but pretty regularly. It has had zero issues at all. This has been a very good tool and investment honestly. It’s not the highest quality machine mind you, it has some paint flaws and minor casting flaws where it doesn’t matter. All the stuff that does matter works well and has held up to my use. I don’t see any real long term issues with it either.
I am contemplating maybe installing a 3 phase AC motor and VFD for even more spindle speed control. But that’s another video and another bag of money. 😆
@@dieselshadow Great! Thanks for the update and the video.
dieselshadowman Can I ask if a 13 x 40 Model with the variable speed controls would maybe be a better buy to avoid later having to add 3 phase motor & vfd?
I’m presently considering this metric equivalent that seems to be a sister lathe possibly even from the same Chinese factory.
www.machineryhouse.com.au/L555D
I have to say I am surprised greatly at how noisy yours is in high gear, such that I suspect it might drive me crazy if I were using it all the time, I found it “irritating” while you were filming & speaking because it was so loud. The same demonstration in low gear would have been far more enjoyable to watch I suspect.
Now I have to take a trip down to machinery house and listen to the one I’m interested in to see if it’s as loud as yours as that might be a deal breaker for me. I wouldn’t be able to hear myself think over that din.
Maybe it’s just that your camera microphone picked up the sound & exacerbated it?
Maybe if you have a sound decibel app on your smart phone you could measure the noise level when operating.
Part of my thinks if they aren’t tapered roller bearings on that 2 inch spindle, maybe they are ball race bearings and possibly not well packed with grease or not being properly oil lubricated or something?
Surely it shouldn’t be that noisy?
@@ianmoone2359 I have a PM1440HD so not the same machine but similar. Bearings are tapered roller and lubed by the main gear case oil. I think that is the most common on this size lathe. If you have something that uses grease it is better to not pack it fully as that will cause more heat buildup. Gear noise will go down as the gears wear in but at top speed they will likely still be rather loud. They are spur gears. Expensive lathes may have spiral cut gears. But you are looking at several times the cost. Thing is you will very rarely use top speed. Maybe for polishing or very small work. You will find a slow rpm more useful than a faster one. My slowest speed is 40rpm. There are enough gears that I haven't wanted a variable speed. It might be nice for facing large diameters but some caution about spinning something large should be used. 3 phase motors are always preferable to single. Smoother power, longer life, simple design, can be variable speeded. Top speed is dependent on the bearings and dynamic balance. Slow speed by heat dissipation and perhaps the winding configuration. 6 wire, 3 phase motors can be switched between wye and delta using a timer and two contactors to reduce inrush current. Common practice in places with shitty power and maybe useful for VFDs. If you go the VFD route I would use the rotary rather than the static. You can make your own rotary very simply. Try not to electrocute yourself!
@@dieselshadow Sounds like youve been ROBBING THE BANK ! WAY TOO ! MUCH !! ALREADY. !!
Wow, that's some machine. I'd have to spend a month reading just to figure out what all the knobs and levers were for. You must be in hog heaven.
I had never used a metal lathe when I got my PM1440HD, a bit intimidating at first but really pretty logical when you play with it a bit. Lots to learn to be good with it.
In his man cave and no women allowed.
Then after that ! Your just a PIG ! With it !!
Lo vendes?
She looks good
Cuanto cuesta aber si me puedes desir el presio porfabor
Hi Sir
Can you please say how much cost this machine?
Where it made?
How is the Chinese lathe mache?
5000 dollars
@@engrane62 RUNNN !!! AWAY !!! LIKE ! MAD !!
Price
Is the swing over bed: 13-11/16" ?
It's swing is a Swing !
What’s the pricetag on a machine like this?
A few ZILLION DOLLARS !.
Great video and nice lathe! I will be ordering this lathe myself soon. What size tool holders are you using?
Thank you! It came with BXA tool holders of real good quality. Make sure to get some of the tooling QMT has to get you started. 👍🏼
Yeah I figured it was bxa. I was just wondering if bxa will take 5/8 or 3/4 tool holders. I also plan on getting the 935tv mill. Perfect size for gunsmithing.
That really depends on the individual holders. I have several that vary in size. The XL versions can usually hold 3/4" tooling.
Then you woke up!
@@Musicalbullet My 935TS mill will be delivered tomorrow.
@DieselShadowMAn: now that you hd some time behind this machine. any 2 years later Pro's / Cons. wish you would have or wish not? im considering the same E model. -Sam
I would definitely buy this machine again. It has been smooth, powerful, and plenty capable for all of my general projects. Now I'm not a full-on production guy or a precision machinist (like I pretend to be LOL), but this machine does everything I need and more. If you are a gunsmith or a production shop, or the most precise machinist that needs the best, I would look at PM's Taiwanese machines for even better features and a better fit and finish. Of course the price will go up accordingly.
1: did you keep it stock as delivered? 2: have you made any mods or additions since. 3: the chip tray. is it easy to empty? (Looks like the DRO cables were laying in the tray. getting mixed in with the chips) 4: whats the actual travel on the compound? I have several other lathes Im about to let go in lou of this possible lathe. thanks so much for the info. Again thanks.
Sam, no problem. 1, yes, it is stock except for the cardboard splash guard I added. 2, See 1, no mods. All of my dollars have been spent on tooling. The machine is complete and really doesn't need anything. 3, Yes, no problem. And yes, the cables are in the tray, but not a big deal. They are all kind of like this. 4, I don't have an actual measurement handy, but I know it's a couple of inches. An exact number should be able to be found in the specs on PM's website or a quick call to them. Who knows, maybe this has changed in the last few years as well? Doubtful, but possible.
If you were local or close, I'd say come take a look at it yourself. It's a great machine and I'm glad to own it.
All good Info. thanks for taking the time to answer. Im guessing by your other posts were not neighbors. Im in Central FLA. (TampaBay) you im guessing much further north of me!. Otherwise I would mist certainly take you up on the "come see". :)
If you dont mind what kind of tooling did you buy? -Sam
Sam, I've bought tooling from everyone including PM. They are dealers for a lot of the major brands and carry stuff that's not so critical to have name brand stuff. Then I also get stuff from Travers and several other online vendors.
Yeah, i'm in the Nashville general area. if you are ever in the neighborhood and wanting some great live music and a cold beer....
And how much is a device worth those???
The Device needs to be put into a Metal Shreadder ! For added ! Enjoyment !
looks virtually identical to the al336 from H&F..., the standard gap bed 12x36...
except for the one crucial feature which is what im always looking at now...
the tailstocks done properly on these.
take a look at the aforementioned model and see if you can see it... even the latest PM 12x36 does it. they all come from the same factory after all. ive noticed a very old PM 12x36 seemed to be "correct".
i have contemplated trying to get one shipped over, but ive decided its better to fire my furnace up, practise my timber work skills, start mashing up some more greensand... and make a lever/ram type with a shaper/slotter affair instead.
now ive added a DRO... its even worse. absolutely kills me, makes me not want to use it, as working between centers is an absolute nightmare.
actually, this is probably a rebranded version of the al346/al356. that little bit bigger. and the taisltocks done properly!
What the price in my country
A Few ! ZILLION ! DOLLARS !
What is the price of the machine.
You’ll need to visit Precision Mathews website or give them a call for accurate pricing. I bought mine several years ago now so I couldn’t give you a current price.
www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1440e-lb/
Price for that
Rosa, you’ll have to contact Precision Mathews for a current price. They have a really good website as well. 👍🏼
I am not sure what is better grizzly or this
Have you researched PM or Quality Machine Tool? I too was in your spot. I did a ton of research and came to a conclusion that led me to my purchase. Matt and his crew will answer your questions as they not only sell Precision Mathews, but actually set the standards and specs for these particular machines. You clearly get more for your dollar with QMT. Grizzly makes a fine machine, but PM outshines them in all arenas in my humble opinion.
i finished a school for lathe but i am not from you country and i dont know the brend
I have a Grizzly G0776, that lathe is nearly that lathe exactly. I can tell they are built by the same Chinaman. I'm very happy with mine and that PM is very nice as well.
Pm and grizzly sell the same machine. Go with the best price.
Grizzly Service is...............thumbs down. 👎
What is price this lathe
In the ballpark of around $20 K
dude that is a sweeeeet lathe enjoy that one !
Nice lathe, the company selling it seems to have a good reputation. This video, thought could use a little work....
Your !.LATHE ! NEEEDS ! TO ! BE ! DONATED ! TO !.CHARITY !! STRAIGHT ! AWAY !! NOW !!
how many price the lathe ?
I️ would recommend you call or visit Precision Mathews website for the latest prices and availability. The price depends on the options and extras you decide to get with your new lathe.
In the ballpark of around $20 K
www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1440e-lb/
i have the exact same lathe but the thread knobs are different and different brand
Is it possible to add the protective cover on the mother screw ?
Sure, anything is possible. It would be difficult to do since the carriage slides along that screw. I suppose you could add a boot of some kind. Just know that these are pretty much exposed on all lathes and there aren’t really any provisions to mount any kind of guard. Using a large can be very dangerous and does require 100% of your attention when in use. 👍🏼
today is all chines is hard ti find a metal lathe wasnt made in china,a l going to get formy shop a nardini metal
lathe Brand new nardini is a Factory in Brasil and made very good machine insustrial grade ,this machine is a hobby machine
Que valor time El torno pm1440
Que valor tiene El torno pm_ 1440_LB
www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1440e-lb/
good machine
The top slide is not the cross slide !
Clever leveling feet!
👍 🏆
you can fined it in aliexpress for less than halve price
You won't find the same lathe for less than half, but you will find cheap lathes there.
As a general rule of thumb, you get what you pay for.
@@dieselshadow not really, unfortunately 99.9999% of the time you will not get what you paid for
Yeah, until you pay for the shipping/ import broker (crooks), taxes, duties, and delivery, then congratulations.. you just jumped through all those hoops and wound up paying more than buying it from PM. I've been through it a couple times now, and I've learned my lesson.
5к баксов ценник, и 18к баксов доставка почтой России.
Не судьба.
"5k bucks price tag, and 18k bucks shipping Russian mail. It's not meant to be."
I could see why. Wow.
Доставка 170р/кг. за 600кг выйдет всего каких-то $1.5k доставка.
@@101picofarad Считать нужно все расходы.
@@avi-crakhome2524 по доставке это скажем до терминала деловых линий. В эту сумму уже включены все таможенные сборы.
So what ! Are ! You Worrying about ! Then !??
Buy Grizzly..........and never look back...
I looked very hard at Grizzly machines, darn near bought a G0709. However, the features, warranty, customer service and support were surpassed by Matt at Quality Machine Tool. I'm not knocking Grizzly at all, but I'm very happy with the PM-1440E-LB lathe purchase I made. Grizzly couldn't answer all of my questions about their equipment and admitted that the vast majority of their business is woodworking equipment. QMT deals only in machine tool equipment. There is a difference when you go to a specialist. I encourage you to see for yourself.
I will, I'm still researching. The G0709 is what I was looking at but I want the DRO factory installed.
You don't get the outboard spider on PM stuff but you probably know how to make one.
The DRO is factory installed on the PM1440E-LB lathe.
Making a spider is a good project! Several videos available.
I'm in the market right now for one and I keep finding youtube reviews of various Griz models with unimpressive responses. In one video a guy took the carriage assembly off the rails and did a blue test with poor results. You get what you pay for.
Nabar, sand, mu
Kostet...
Chinese machine tools are bad news. This model is marketed under a half dozen names, PM, Grizzly, Harbor Freight etc. It's greatest shortcoming is plastic gears. This is a lathe for hobbyists at most. There are many machinists that wouldn't work on these. In a busy shop, it wouldn't last the day. This isn't an industrial caliber machine and It's dangerous.
This couldn’t be further from the truth. Yes, it is made in China, but no, Precision Machine doesn’t have exact copies of all other machines out there. Matt specs them better and has them built to higher standards. You can get whatever you want from China, if you pay for it.
There is no plastic gears within this lathe. I can’t speak to all PM machines, but this one is very solid and would absolutely do fine for any hobbyist or even some commercial use. If my shop was a machine shop and I used it all day everyday, then I would’ve upgraded to one of PMs Taiwanese lathes.
1 Flick, You really should know what you are talking about before you post. Change gears are metal, I doubt that anyone thinks they are getting a super deluxe Chinese lathe for this price. I opened all the compartments when I got it to make sure they were clean, they were. Gears & shafts looked fine. I have not detected any chatter in the spindle even during quite aggressive cuts in 4130. Dangerous? Yes, but I can't see why it would be anymore so than any other lathe of this size. A machine of this power can not be stopped just by winding up your sleeve in it. The foot brake is instant. I always thread away from the chuck. When roughing I use inserted tooling at high enough DOC and feed speeds to form the proper chip. Most of the time I finish with HSS so I can sneak up on final. Have you ever used a PM1440? I've never used a mini lathe but I'm pretty sure they likely put price above all else, is that what you are experienced on? I'm retired from my manufacturing business, fully expect my 1440 to out last me.
@@dieselshadow WHAT B.S ! IS THIS !??
@@larryschweitzer4904 HAVEN'T YOU ! BEEN ! ELECTROCUTED !! YET !!???
In FACT ! ITS ! ALL PLASTIC !! HEY !! BIG TICK.!! FROM.ME !!
My dream to have precision Matthew. I love it 😘
I want it but its so far away to my country in Indonesia 🥲
Dreaming on !.is the way to.Go !! Here !!