Turn a 3D PRINT into METAL - Lost PLA Metal Casting - Three Wise Skulls
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- Опубликовано: 27 янв 2022
- In this video I will be using the lost PLA method to turn a 3d print into an awesome solid brass casting. I started by printing the model on my 3d printer and then coated it with a ceramic material. I then fired the shell in my kiln and then poured brass into the shell. This is similar to the lost wax casting process.
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▬ Dont forget to check out the awesome model by Zando2k ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
You can find the model here : www.thingiverse.com/thing:305... 
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I did something similar in high school metal shop. It was called “Lost Wax” and it’s where I got into crafting jewelry from expensive metals and gems.
One of my projects got second place in the California state fair back in 2002!
Never heard of this process, sort of inspires me to get back into it!
It's obvious you had fun making this piece and video, even better was the end result was beautiful! The sulfur addiction was a great call btw, the "aged" look fits the work well
Love watching the process. Looks great with the contrasting shades of bronze! Good work.
Thank you! I like the contrasting look also.
@@robinson-foundry I'm really surprised that the sand molds can hold so much details (like bolt threads) when you pour heavy molten metal into the mold. How do the sand grains not move?
With the ceramic mold, I was thinking about carbon fibre molds, where you use a coating that makes it easy to separate the part from the mold once the glue sets.
Could you not spray the insides of the mold with something right before you pour? Possibly not vinegar?
🤔
Enjoying your vids..
Your humor is rich and perfectly allocated throughout this video. My curiosity was if the layers showed... Thanks!
Your content is so good
I always love watching you make anything. The best part is when you put the slurry on in layers. I could watch every step and never be bored. I also like to watch you knock it off.
Too bad that you are unable to recycle the melted out PLA into future filaments. Thanks for sharing this insightful video. Wishing you and your family a blessed week. Cheers
That final coloring really made it pop. It made me feel nostalgic as it looks like it's an ornament I would've seen in my early childhood.
love seeing how you have refined your methods over the months. i remember when you used to use joint compound instead of this new ceramic stuff
You're the only one I see cast this way. Everyone else uses vacuum chambers and different types of plaster. When I get a 3D printer I'm gonna try it your way
His video style reminds me a lot of very early Grant Thompson videos before he became mega-youtube guru. I personally preferred that older style. Glad to see it back in a sense.
Nice piece. I’ve been thinking about getting a 3D printer but for now I just do it the old fashioned way.
since I'm not familiar with the furnace I always heard " cake " but never thought to question it . I didn't even notice I was hearing " cake " until u pointed it out and the text was on screen xD
I thought that I’d be able to make my own statues and got really excited until I realized all the tools needed. Still an enjoyable watch. Thanks!
Really awesome stuff. I like seeing you cast cool stuff out of metal. Keep it up! 🤘🏻
A true work of Art, great work.
Watching you from Philippines
Great Job! WOW!
Absolutely amazing, from a novice to a pro. Thank you...
Dude you can do the same process in the same way with the same commentary until the end of time and I'd still watch every video. Quality stuff!
Great results dude! Have you not tried clearing the shell off using a jar in a ultrasonic cleaner? If you put the model in the jar/container, and fill it with something that'll dissolve the shell, and chuck that to float in an ultrasonic, it should come off easy. Doing it in a jar/container is to keep it from getting loads of shell bits on the bottom of the ultrasonic which would impact its performance. You can drain off the liquid and dump the shell bits somewhere, then refil the drained liquid back in, if it's too full of bits to be effective
thats epic . Would love to see you do a Star Wars Storm Trooper Helmet one
Thanks Robinson. This is exactly why I've been looking for.
I absolutely love your videos they are always amazing. Please keep making them
Awesome job, it looks amazing!!!
looks absolutely amazing tbh
Have you tried getting the kiln hot before putting the mold in. I have always done that with wax to avoid cracking the mold. It flash melts the wax before it can expand and crack the mold
Great process.
I've always wanted to make a hollow cast of a large model but in multiple pieces and then fit or weld them together using a process similar to this.
Nice job!
As always really cool project and great video! Now I need to pick up a kiln so I can try this myself.
looks awesome! looking forward to trying this!
I really like the way you explain you do each step. Great job. Good content 👍😎
Awesome work, looks epic
Im doing one rn, but just pouring over the PLA+. NO BURNOUT before pouring. just single wall print- coated in setting joint compound, add LARGE sprue and several large vents.. like big fat ones- coat and let dry- set in sand mixed with a small amount of sodium silicate and just gently press the sand around it, just enough to get rid of the air gaps. Pour FAST and step back. Itll flame and smoke but it makes IMMACULATE castings. No joke every single print line will be visible, and the drywall mud comes off totally and easily on its own when you de-sand it. I use .03 nozzles and single wall thickness- no infill. Its wild. I wanted to get ceramic slurry but holy shiz its expensive. Just get a $10 bag of 20minute joint compound, mix it up and let it rip! It works
👍 Danke fürs Hochladen!
👍 Thanks for uploading!
👍 Very good and beautiful, thank you!
👍 Sehr gut und schön, danke!
That was amazing
Excellent work, excellent videography!
That is wicked!
Very well done and informative
That was a great cast mate I think one of the best I have ever seen 👍
$250 keg furnace, $150 pressure washer, $200 sandblaster cabinet, just as some very conservative estimates (not counting the knowledge and materials). Here I am with my 3D printer all excited about making metal items and damn you do make it look so easy and glamorous, but I think I'll spend a decade getting to the point where you're at :)
Broo the accuracy is really awesome
Awesome as always!! I love ur tecnique dude
Love this video, I think I found this interesting enough to possibly make it a hobby. Will take a look at all your content. Thank you.
Evde döküm için güzel bir yöntem, verdiğiniz bilgiler için teşekkür ederim
Awesome!
Don't hate on the cake funace, it's delicious.
You sound like you could be a dry humor narrator on How It’s Made from the History Channel and I am here for it
Sickkk man!!
Love the videos boo
Love these vids mate
It is amazing how much detail you can capture if you know the techniques.
thats really cool
Awesome video! I learned a lot! Thank you. I ordered a Devil Forge which will come soon and I already have a 3d printer, I am so excited to try this. You have the kiln, the bandsaw and the sandblaster, that will be for the future!
Esse cara domina as artes da forja mesmo em.. 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Beautiful. I´d love to buy this.
Nice!
Always love the process. I have a question, though. In previous videos, you wrapped wire around the print after a few layers, but didn't in this one. Did you find it wasn't necessary?
I was wondering his decision process was regarding this.
Thank you! I decided to skip that step after discovering I could patch the shell by painting on slurry while the shell is hot. It’s definitely a good idea to wrap the shells with wire but it seems like either way they crack.
@@robinson-foundry You had a few very visible cracks on the smooth backs of the heads. It's something you did not patch... And even on the finished product, I can see some printer layers. It is a pity that it spoils your excellent work.
Bro I actually love you
very cool work. I once saw someone make such skulls
Nice video here!
Never seen people use the pla, most use the special resin for the SLA printers but this came out super good.
i do find it amazing how well tuned your mk2s is especially seeing as you use Cura for it
Cool !!!!!!!!!!!
I love that your work is as refined as the human figures are .
Love your videos, I've experimented with lost PLA casting using investment plaster and colored PLA with poor results because it left ash in the mold. I'll try the black Overture PLA and see if that works, it may save the very big step of making a silicone rubber mold for the wax replicas. The ceramic shell process looks like a better fit for what I'm trying to do, which is digitally sculpting and 3D scanning human figures and casting them in Bronze.
壁厚较薄的空心壳体会使灰烬变少，尽量使用配方简单的PLA材料，减少无机色素等杂质融化造成的多余的灰烬
Makes me want to try it myself. I would use these skills to reproduce obsolete and rare automotive parts.
Man I would buy this.
Its Weird how your voice has soften up over those 3 years. You sound so much more serious in your video about making Foundry...
You might want to consider sonic cleaning for removing the ceramic , I'm not sure how feasible getting it proffesionally done would be for videos, but it seems like your capable enough to rig something up, doesnt necessarily have to be "sonic" so much as vibration to work.
I.NEED.THIS. And a few more for gifts.
Nice job. I dream of doing something like this :)
Cool. Hi from Russia
Got to do a resin print!
Good stuff mate be good to see a few more complicated mouldings in the future maybe some hollow stuff 🤘 very interesting process .asked me want a 3d printer that for sure
Just found your channel. Loved this project. Would like one of them of my own.
I can reccomend polymaker polycast. It leaves no residue when burned out
Can you make a rubber duck out of lead with this technique?
Thank you so much!!!! It looks like you have homemade kilns. Could you do a tutorial for them as well? Or at least, cite references? Thanks again for your work!
Great video, good sculpture.
You forgot DO no evil, the fourth "wise monkey", but I'm not gonna say what that dirty "monkey" is usually depicted doing, on the few occasions it gets used. As you know, most know about the first three, and very few know about the fourth.
Ooh, was that a T-Rex skull waiting to be cast? Nice work, Seth!
You should consider getting a Needlegun to help make breaking the ceramic shells go a lot easier. It'll especially help break the ceramic shells apart when you have thick ceramic fills like when you did your bronze measuring cube, that way it'll reduce how much time you'll use your Pressure Washer or Sandblaster. Just remember to start gentle and only apply gradual pressure with the Needlegun until the shell starts breaking to minimize the needles impacting your castings.
Love it. And the mumbled edits 🙂
cool
Another awesome video. I am Still waiting on one on how your built your lifting and pouring tongs.
I now have a 10KG Castmaster furnace, sand, safety wear, a 10KG and 4KG crucible and a lot of aluminum to melt. The tongs I have I do not feel safe to lift the 10KG crucible with. I do have enough steel to make a set of large tongs with but finding help online on how to build them is pretty limited. The set you made look perfect. I'm sure you would get a lot of looks and likes if you were to make a video on how you built them.
This would be a great way to make the mandalorian's helmet
I wish suspendaslurry wasn’t so pricey. Looks fun.
Looks amazing. Would it make sense to sand the 3d print plastic to remove the layer lines before the metal casting later so they don't show up in the final version?
For details so small, like in the base, it's next to impossible to do that without damaging the plastic. You'd almost need a dentist's drill to access some of those small recessed places. Sanding is totally ineffective on those details.
I've also been curious about how you post process 3D prints. Is it more that you don't do any?
It did turn out great 👌 but I tend to eliminate the print lines in mine. Have you tried using 3d printer castable resin and uv lamp? One or max 2 layers of it should be enough and it is fairly easy to use this way - just dip like in slurry, wait till exsess dips out and then use a uv lamp to harden the resin.
I also noticed a new bucket od Suspenda Slurry. A lot of new projects are about to come? 🤔 cant wait because all of your projects are awesome ☺️
At this time I am preperaring for another try with Death Trooper hollowed one. It is a big print - 3days 😳 we will see how it will turn out. And a lot of my projects are still ongoing but not finished. All is recorded, still needs editing.
Really well done! It looks like you perfected the casting with the suspenda slurry and sand.
The resolution of 3d printing is not going to get any better probably. But it is super zoomed in. Maybe an 8k 3d printer will be better. But it will cost. I saw the phrozen 8k 3d printer throws out good prints..
Until i am actually going to produce 3D stuff i am not going to buy anything, while the technology rapidly advances. So better stuff for lower prices in the future more than likely.
Keep it up!
Greetings,
Jeff
cooool
hola me gustó el video saludo:
🤜🤛👍 👏👊
Is there a reason you don’t use vapor polishing on the PLA prints before you begin the ceramic coating process? This could really help with removing the layer lines that you see in the final piece. As always, great work. Subbed and excited to see future projects!
Vapor polishing doesn't work on PLA unfortunately. The materials it does work on do not burn very cleanly. But, you're right, I would absolutely spend more time post processing the print though.
I imagine it would remove too much detail
i'd say if it is within means, use a resin printer instead. they enable much greater detail
@@AaronReynolds89 Didn't know that vapor polish doesn't work on PLA, totally makes sense
@@AaronReynolds89 I think there is a new resin meant for casting. Vapor polishing is mainly for rewin prints I belive
It's have the same shape as the ligh saber that I found in the house o a friend of mine:D
You should try an acetone vapor smoothed ABS print. See how it casts without the layer lines :D
I wonder if the ceramic would break off easier if you quenched it while very hot. Brass actually anneals when quenched ( opposite of steel)
You might want to use acetone bapor method to smoothen your 3d prints, making their surface smoother.
That would mean he needs to print in abs, which doesn't deal well with high temperatures.
It would be giving off highly toxic gases the whole time its in the kiln.
Hi, I liked your video, excellent work. I want to do somes myself, but I was thinking of using plaster with sand to make the mold, I think is simpler and cheaper. Had you think about use it?
Looks amazing., but the ceramic coating is crazy expensive. I wish they would supply it in small quantities, but the only ones I've seen seem to be industrial size like the huge barrel of the stuff you have.