Sharpening the Frame Saw | Paul Sellers
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- Опубликовано: 30 окт 2015
- The blades that are available for frame or bow saws often need a touch up to get them cutting well. Paul shows a few of the issues that might need addressing.
Paul discusses some of the saw and blade options in the following blog post:
paulsellers.com/2015/10/makin...
For more information on these topics, see paulsellers.com or woodworkingmasterclasses.com 
Хобби
Mr. Sellers you inspired me to grab a pair of old saws I rescued or found likely from a next stop to the trash. I finally cleaned and sharpened them, as I watched and learned how. I collected the tools to sharpen saws by accident. I can rarely walk away from a poor old tool anywhere I find one and generally they are in neglected condition and I enjoy restoring and using them.
Thanks for the excellent tutorials.
Cheers!
Paul, your popularity is based on the fact that you know how to"sharpen the saw" as well as craft it. Well done sir.
said it countless times. Watching Paul Sellers is the absolute best. I look forward to his videos. He is a True skilled craftsmen.
So I can get good.
100% agree. Master crafter Paul!
Thank you for posting these videos! I have been trying to relearn how to sharpen hand saws after 40+ years - basically starting over again. These bow saws (frame saws) are a brilliant idea, we see them in use all over the glode where other hand saws are not in use. Figuring this all out does take time, as this is not exactly common knowledge these days.
Exactly what I was looking for. Well done, and no loud crappy music! Thank you sir!
Excellent! Straight forward, good instructions, & very informative. Thank you!
I've been watching all these videos on the bow saw and I just realized there's one hanging in my garage that's probably 80 years old or at least as old as I am, 65. I need to see what kind of shape it's in and hopefully these videos will halp me bring it back to life.
Thanks again Paul!
+Peter Valcanas
I just brought the saw in the house and it's in pretty good shape and instead of a string to tighten the blade it has a couple of threaded rods, one left and one right, with a coupling in the middle. I don't know if that was added after a time or not. I wish I could post a picture somewhere so someone might give me some info on it.
+Peter Valcanas
-- I'm no particular expert, but I know that mass-produced style with a threaded-rod turn-buckle was very common in the "old days" (20th Century) in the USA. (Probably actually MORE common in N.America. The string-twist version is the ancient home-made European style.) Up until rather recently they were still selling a related type: sort of a firewood or tree-trimming version of this frame-saw. These have the same threaded-rod mechanism, but are usually asymmetrical -- meant to be handled only on one end, and the frame-piece on that handle side often extended down further past the blade. (The end sticks are also often angled in a trapezoidal shape, rather than the rectangle shape of the frame seen here.) I remember still seeing those available new in hardware stores ~20 years ago.
So my point is, the metal turn-buckle mechanism is SURELY original, not a mod. Unless there's a particular brand name on your (presumably) commercially-manufactured saw, that you desire more information about for historical interest... from a simply FUNCTIONAL perspective, you shouldn't need to change anything except make sure the blade is tuned up as Paul shows here. (Well... unless your turn-buckle threads are rusted. That would be a whole 'nother can of worms.)
1) If the teeth are worn down enough to be uneven in height or spacing, you'll need to "joint" the tops, and start over sharpening them all from there, to restore a consistent, regular tooth pattern. This is the initial step in the more involved sort of full-on sharpening process, rather than the superficial touch-up that Paul is doing here to a new blade. This is covered by several current retailers/dealers/restorers of high-end joinery back-saws -- some of their vids can be found on RUclips. (There's also books that cover saw-sharpening.) Same principles, even though the blades on these frame-saws are generally thinner, i.e., much bigger teeth relative to the steel thickness.
Another commenter here is saying Paul has posted a more comprehensive saw-sharpening vid in the past. I haven't looked at that yet. The other saw-sharpening tutorial I know of right off the top of my head on RUclips, was posted 2-3 years ago by Lie-Nielsen (first name Thomas), manufacturer of high-end woodworking hand-tools.
2) If not wanting to bother salvaging a basket-case blade (significant rust, etc.), and with no expectation of finding a new blade that matches the exact mounting hole pattern of your particular saw-frame, you should be able to buy a blade that's rather over-sized for yours, i.e., meant to fit on one of the aforementioned larger "firewood" sized saws. Then cut the end(s) off the blade to fit your length, and drill new holes in it, of the right size/placement for your mounting pins.
3) Paul didn't mention the option of using sections of band-saw blades. Those can be had in high quality steel, and one 1.5" or 2"-wide bandsaw blade meant for a big commercial saw, would supply a whole bunch of replacement blades for your frame-saw. Band-saw blades of that width might be a little thicker than the usual frame-saw steel shown here, but a thicker blade only means less vibration. The kerf will also be bigger, though. And it may not be as easy to reduce the set of the teeth on that kind, as on Paul's blade here. You'd also want to have a good look at the tooth pattern geometry of various types of band-saw blades. Some of those are more complex, and bear little resemblance to the simple triangle tooth shape that is easily filed by hand.
Great video Paul, I think I will try taking a crosscut blade and file ripcut teeth into the smooth top side of the blade so I can just flip the blade over. Thank you for everything you teach us and the ideas that you inspire.
did you try that out?
Thanks for all the info boatrat. I think you described my saw perfectly and thanks for mentioning the term turn-buckle, I couldn't for the life of me remember what it was called.
I think from the looks of the blade it was used for small trees or limbs as you mentioned. It also looks as if it were commercially made and well I might add.
I think I'm just going to clean it up a bit and hang it on the wall and maybe make one of my own.
Thanks for your time getting back to me.
Peter
Hi Paul great video tutorial i must say i have a few of them blades laying around ill have to sharpen them and make a framing saw thanks
The speed he works at here while maintaining precision and accuracy was crazy. I mean the filing and the tenon would have me double checking and cautiously cutting.
do something as long as he's been working in wood and you'll be just as good. there's a lot to be said for experiance.
Thank master!!!!!
desde la argentina!!!.
Sempre muito competente, quanta habilidade e carinho no que faz, uma aula imperdível!
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Very nice! Thank you!💜
Very useful tips :)
It just occurred to me that this is really not that different to sharpening a chainsaw, which I've done hundreds of times, and I should stop being nervous about it.
Paul. Thank you for another helpful video! I am in the process of a frame saw project myself. My question is, should a Rip saw blade have any set at all or should all of the teeth be in line with one another?
+Chris Hornady every saw needs set
Paul, while most saw teeth are square angled filed, do you continue to do square angled filing?, ... or the latest angular teeth, like Corona folding saw, or Bahco saw, that has triangular teeth, and actual double row cutting teeth? Their cutting ability in the kerf appears to be vastly increased. My Corona used on 60+ orchard tree pruning for multiple years is an excellent cutter. The same would appear opportune for green wood (large teeth per inch) or dry wood (small teeth per inch) in the wood shop.
Just made my first one out of some scrap cherry I had laying around. I used a Jorgeson 18tpi blade. I followed the instructions about refining the blade and I am very pleased with the results. Used it on some larger tenons that my other saws wouldn't do because of the depth and I realized I just saved myself about $200+ by not having to shell out the dough for a bigger back saw! Thanks, Paul! I think I may have $10-15 in the whole thing.
+dvollie Where did you find the Jorgeson 18 tpi blade?
I had to contact Jorgesen directly. The 18tpi blade is out of production but they still have stock.
I have small dove tail saws. If I use the hammer method and take off the set and sharpen it without set it will still work okay?
Where I can buy this exact blade? How long it is? Thank you for the very descriptive material.
I did not quite understand which face of the tooth he sharpened, the same one he went over with the diamond file?
So will decreasing the blade set by hammering cause bowing ? After all you do the same thing to a square to adjust it......
I know I am late to the party, just getting into woodworking now. I am curious about the frame saws. Can you have frame saws of all different lengths, one for dovetails, one for cross cutting, one for rip cutting, and so on? Or does there come a point where the frame saw design can only get so small?
Hello Mr Powell
From the time I was playing a video explaining how to make a manual saw a Japanese style if possible send me video clip
I'd be thankful
Where do you buy the blades? You mentioned Home depot but I couldn't find them.
The way I was taught was "if you can see the edge, you have no edge"
I remember when all carpenters sharpened there saw Friday afternoon they all had saws for years if they got rust spots on they rubbed it off with cement dust and a block of wood came up like chrome all hardpoint now just throw away now
how about a video on making that saw vise?
Hi Ryan. I have thought about it and it’s something i would like to do so stay tuned.
Paul Sellers thank you so much. And of course I'll stay tuned. I love learning from you. I've built about all of your poor man's tools. As I am a carpenter, trying to learn woodworking.
Haha! Love it! Hey Paul, can I place a to go order please? Ya, can i order one tenon, bow-sawn? (Answered at 8:34)... Keep 'em coming, Paul!
About how much should a frame saw blade cost?
+Adam R In the blog post he mentions that he sometimes buys band saw blades from places like Home Depot (less than $10 per blade), cuts them to length, and drills holes for mounting. Check the description for the blog post link.
any links to these bow saw blade please i cannot find them on ebay
Where to buy frame saw blades in North America?
Fantastic effort, Mr. Sellers...but PLEASE SLOW DOWN and try not to let your hand get in the way of we noobs to see and understand. We are all so happy with your success. Bon chance!
Is that an ECE blade?
+WillEyedOney From the link on his blog - paulsellers.com/2015/10/making-frame-saws/ - it looks like it is.
😮Lol!,and I set aside about an hour for this. 😒
a rogue employee just going around dragging sawblades across metal cuz he doesnt like his boss 😂😂🤣🤣
I know you are just tapping them but it is never advisable to bang two hammer faces together since they are both hardened and can produce dangerous flying chips. Better to use one piece of metal not as hard, as an anvil, and a hammer. I know you can usually get away with it but you can only be blinded twice! Why risk it?
i rather prefer the prebuild frame saws from the german brand ulmia the blade is on a swivle mount so you can set it up for left handed or right handed and cut way deeper than the middle piece on this type shown in the video allows