The spring inside that hole saw is fully compressed and is now keeping the hole saw from sawing through that 1/2 thick steel. That steel is simply too thick for that hole saw. Great vids
Metal smith here! Typically any problem for a toothed hole saw will come from chip clearing. Any time you go through metal thicker than the height of the teeth, you will need to take a brake, and clear the channel with a brush to avoid chips filling the teeth and lifting them off the surface you’re cutting. As for the pilot bit snapping/shattering, that comes from a super hardened pilot shaft made to be uniformly hardened to beat whatever material you’re trying to get through; however, this also causes whatever tool steel it is to be brittle at a certain torsion ceiling. The torsion that broke your bit the first time might have very well been such a thick piece of steel (softer hardness than the pilot bit) grabbing the end of the bit, and since the piece of metal was so large, the bit could not overpower it to cut through, so the resulting torsion exerted on the bit caused it to shatter. Next time try this! For thick metal do slow and precise pilots, and then run the hole bit fast and hard til the teeth are almost filled (should only be about 20-25ish seconds at a time, and would be a better way to test the teeth themselves) clear the channel, reapply a little oil, then repeat the process til you’re through! If the teeth wear out or get dull, you have to consider the hardness of the material you’re cutting through, then you will know it’s limits. Remember not all angle iron/i-beams/mild steels are created equal, they all have a different hardness a tool needs to break through. Love the videos as always, great community and always enjoy the info I gain!
I smashed the like button! I got and used these hole saw bits. They are great for drilling through aluminum. I use them on sheet aluminum and up to 1/8 inch thick aluminum. Obviously steel is a lot harder than the aluminum I use them on. They work great to drill through the aluminum.
Vince @VCG Cutting through the hardened steel i-beam is another level , slow and easy with Anular bits or super fast like CNC but continuously heavy cooled . Kudos to Milwaukee for trying to accomplish something out of the traditional ways. Like their cordless tools that continuously upgraded, hope will be possible also to their Cutting bits using simple tools we normally have
How cool, that Vince & VCG took the comments & tried again for us👍🏻.....not many channels would do this, far as I know. Only Vince could model footwear & make an impact driver NOT impact all in the same vid......while bringing us great knowledge & content😉😆 Pretty darn great! Cheers✌🏼
@VCG Construction after reading the comments, I found one mentioning the spring is probably the reason it wont go so deep. I never thought about this since i'm not used to hole-saws with springs, however it's probably the reason. Always helps to have another set of eyes.
They’re all hung up on the I-Beam designation on the packaging which doesn’t actually mean I-beams it just means metal, if you read the packing and website it says not to exceed 1/8” metal
I use the holedozer with a similar method moderate pressure and the least impact blows as possible. I've made about 50 holes in sheet metal with the 7/8" saw before its toast.
Vince you coming back and doing follow up videos based on users opinions is what separates you from everyone else. Keep up the good work, love your videos.
@VCG Construction. Iv learned a trick on drilling heavy steal like that. Get some modeling clay and make a circle with it around the spot your gonna be drilling and fill it up with some drilling oil then drill your hole not sure if I explained it right but it’s a good trick to make drill bits last.
From my experience anything starting at about 3/8 thick steel gets considerably harder to drill, especially holes over 1/2”. A lot of people heat things up too much and work harden the piece which makes it very hard to drill. Having the right tools for the job makes a big difference. I wish i could use my impact for everything as i enjoy using it more for multiple reasons. However my regular drill will always have its place in my box.
Hey VGC.. great video. I have the same kit that I use when I have to make holes in an electrical panel or switch gear enclosures. I've used these hole saws once on that hevi steel and found that the spring would bottom out. I believe that's what is happening here. Thank you for making these awesome videos. Can't wait for the next one.
Good work as always. Always keep in mind the material being steel or stainless. Just keep lubed and keep the drill bit cool and go slow. You covered it well. Keep up the good work.
as someone who drills thru metal daily and stayed at holiday in express last night go slow let the bit do the work and i put a magnet right next to hole I'm drilling to pull all the shavings away as i drill
Also Milwaukee accessories seem suspicious to me in their price policy...basically the other china made stuff + 100 bucks/euros/potatoes. Would be possible to try Bosch's stuff... speaking of which now there's a new Bosch impact driver with a socket square head with an internal hex that has switchable impact, so you could use it as a drill replacement for a 1 tool does it all situation... although there sure already is a similar thing by Milwaukee as well.
It's just an icon milwaukee uses to represent "thick metal". On the packaging it tells you the thickness they really mean. Same icon is used on their sawzall blades and so on.
It's only an icon for easy reference at the store. Meaning "steel"... Just like one wouldn't drill though plasic pipe. But, the easy / quick reference icon & lets the consumer know one can use it on "plasic" ..
I've seen that on a bunch of things that are definitely not for cutting I beams. I've always taken it as indication for use in heavier metals not literally an I beam lol. Certain multi tool blades are marked that way and that just means it will go through steel nails or corner beads.
It was not made to drill a hole in a I beam that is a generic icon for steel I have a set look at the teeth they are small and will do thin wall because it can usually cut through before the teeth gets full of chips for that I beam get a spider titanium the teeth are larger and won't get chip packed as fast use the right tool for the job
I’ve done this. Treat like drilling a hole in concrete with hammer drill. Get started, then when the teeth stop showing-ish, drill a SECOND hole on the actual circle being cut. It creates a vent for debris so you don’t have to keep pulling out after teeth get gunked up.
Good vid there Vince. As you mentioned, I think these bits work fine for PVC and thinner steel and sheet metal. The steel you are trying to drill through is 1/2 inch hardened steel and using an impact driver instead of a regular drill driver is asking too much. I've never had to drill through 1/2" hardened steel only 1/4" angle iron and I've always used HSS Cobalt bits and not hole saws. But I give you credit for giving it the good ole college try,. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience using these bits and cheers to VCG and the gang!!
@@texasboy2005 its 1/2 A36 hot rolled.. not heat treated but it's got a decent hardness to it (Rockwell B76 ish) Aluminum, the gold standard for cutting metal is like Rockwell B40ish ... Rockwell B70 range is pretty hard stuff
@@nicksantos9234 The A36 alloy is a common, cheap, and mild steel. However, it's chemical make up does not bode well for chip breaking. Machinist would prefer to cut/machine through common 1018 steel plate over this anyday.
Designed with a robust ¼” quick change hex shank, Milwaukee® Shockwave Impact Duty™ Thin Wall Hole Saws give professionals a hole making solution to use with impact drivers. Utilizing a thin wall, 8 TPI design, Thin Wall Hole Saws deliver a burr-free cut up to 40% faster than standard bi-metal hole saws. The included ejection spring removes the frustration of manually removing slugs by automatically ejecting the material. A stop shoulder design prevents over-drilling into material and potentially damaging inner components of electrical and junction boxes. Choose Thin Wall Hole Saws for use in plastics and thin gauge metals up to 1/8” thick.
Great vid love the content personally I agree with you I would not go more than quarter inch on them bad boys 1/2 inch steel honestly I’d use a mag drill with a bore bit
Most people don't own a mag drill sadly. Certainly need some specialized tools to work with heavy steel. Otherwise you're gonna be there all day snapping bits
Yes a drill driver or a drill press! If he doesn’t know that the impact driver is a silly choice to cut that hole, I question his background as a contractor. Just because it says impact rated and has the 1/4” insert doesn’t mean it’s a good idea. I watch his videos because he always reviews new things, so I don’t have to impulse buy a cool new tool.
If any of you actually watched the video you will see he explained the reason he was using an impact was because the hole saws were impact rated and he wanted to test that, but hey not everyone has the same attention span 😂😂😂
love my Spyderco PM2’s (and the m18 fuel gen 3 hammer/impact set I picked up the other day). Mainly carry a limited, but not sprint run, s35vn tan handle and silver blade. Missed your’s, in a PMII though, by a day or two. Enjoy your videos. Very solid.
I think it's that spring on the inside that's keeping it from making progress, might be that it's depressed all the way but acts as a spacer towards the bottom of the hole saw? Idk I don't use those lol
@vcg construction outstanding job, thanks for listening to the gang, I guess it really was just a bridge to far. Catch you on the next one....... Andy London England
Your absolutely right my man if the pack says it's ok that means do it. You work with metal man look into surface feet and you will understand what people are talking about cutting to fast to slow. It changes with the cutting material and the .lateral being cut. High speed steel tool want slower speed then say carbide. Hole saws take those standard numbers and generally reduce them by 50% or so you dont have to be accurate just close enough to not burn the tool up
Good attempt brother, keep up the great reviews! Spend many hours at work watching your videos. They keep me very entertained during the long hours of the graveyard shift.
I have been buying those for a while. There good but don’t seem to last. I’m an electrician so there for light duty holes in boxes. I have a hydraulic punch for the heavy duty stuff. But price comparison to the Klein hole saws is vast. One Klein hole saw for a 3/4 ko is 60-70 bucks but last way longer.
How U Doin! I too use the pilot hole 1st method. I use my Milwaukee hardened cobalt metal bits 1st though with actual cutting oil, slow speed with moderate pressure. Love your vids, U saved me $$$$
No problem with the procedure. I work with a lot of steel. There are different grades where some steel is easier to drill, put self tappers in. Other steel you struggle with it. I believe your testing material would be an extreme material for my work but yet a good test. Perhaps the teeth on the hole saw needs better material - similar to what is done with some circular saw blades. Then the safety aspect comes up with the steel bits flying around to possible teeth bits coming loose. Perhaps with half inch steel a person should use a torch if allowed. I don’t like packaging to imply it will do a job yet fail. The self eject design is very cool. Thanks - Vince for the extra effort.
I have foud that if I drill a hole the size of the pilot drill first then just use the pilot drill to just guide the hole saw , the pilot drill tends to pop off when it breaks through the steel
I’ve bought these before, they are okay for rough walling, on thin metal studs to run mc and conduit. But they don’t last long though, usually the spring is the first thing to come off, then the little screw that holds the bit, you’re gonna need an Allen wrench to tighten it again but the damned thing strips so easily. I just don’t let other people use them anymore, because they don’t know how to properly use them to make them last longer, they usually last me 2-3 months if I’m doing a lot of wall rough, before they start to have problems, but they do make rough walling easier
You need the TKO from ideal Milwaukee also now makes them too they are for heavy gauge steel but they are twice as much as them for just one bit .if .you buy the kit they are cheaper just bought a 1/2 to 2inch kit for 270 from the supply house
Thanks for the follow up video and attempt. I looked up the HD listing for the saws. It does say in the description online, "up to 1/8" thick metal". It really should show that info on the package.
They are made for drilling into a electrical panel. Or electrical boxes like you demonstrated. The sizes of 7/8”, 1 1/8” and 1 3/8” are made for 1/2”, 3/4” and 1” conduit connectors.
If you don’t want it to impact why not use a drill and for drill bits it’s all about pressure you really need like 300+ pounds which is why drilling trough metal is so tough with anything but a brand new bit same goes with hole saws through metal and I’ll say that their hole dozers go through steel like butter I’ve drilled plenty through 1/2in steel with them. Great vid gang 👍🏻👍🏻
i run the hole dozers in steel from .120 up to 1/2" they work awesome and last a good long time, even in a tubing notcher and .120 wall dom steel tubing!!
When I first bought these impact ready hole saws I thought it would save me a lot of time and energy compared to carrying around a chuck drill n case of hole saw bits. Had a building outage sometime later and used it to make a couple 3/4” holes in a panel. After the first hole the pilot bit bust.. good thing I still had my old set up.
3 in 1 oil is a lubricating oil, not a cutting oil. Use a true cutting oil for best results. I think you are bottoming out on the ejector spring, with the spring fully compressed. As you said they aren’t designed for thicker steel!
I use them almost every day as an electrician. I never use my impact, unless I need a quick hole and my drill/driver isn’t handy. For drilling in pull cans, I get the pilot through and just let gravity do the rest. It helps with the longevity of the saw.
I think you did a pretty fair attempt. You actually went a lot further than I would have went. Will you now do a video of a hole saw that will go through that I beam.
I looked these bits up after seeing the video, and maybe I'm mistaken, but I saw it mentioned they are for lighter metals UP TO 1/4 INCH... My guess is its supposed to be ok if you hit metal studs or if you need to drill into an electrical box as you did in your video
What an adventure this one was. Agreed, it is not the right tool for the job. I don't think most hole saws are meant for over 1/8" steel. The I beam picture is just the unfortunate visual symbol chosen to say a tool is rated for metal on general. Didn't actually indicate thick metal capabilities. It's silly. A lot of drill bits do list the actual max recommended thickness though.
I will try with A regular drill every time I use a bit for a impact driver takes longer and the RPM is different for drilling. Just like a metal cutting saw and a regular cutting saw with a metal cutting blade
DeWalt makes an electro magnetic drill press we have used when installing floating hand rails at malls makes quick easy work of large holes into thick steel.
You have to use your regular drill on low speed. I have carbide hole saws that I use for this same material. These Milwaukee holesaws will drill it just not with the impact.
I know someone else mentioned it, too, but the reason that you can't get through that steel is because the auto-eject device is bottoming out, and the steel is more than twice the thickness of the maximum depth of the bit. I have one of these that I bought for mounting some specific stuff, and it worked great! Then, one day, I needed a hole through a piece of Plexiglas. Plexiglas melts when it gets hot. I have not been able to get the slug out of the big, though I have not tried all that hard, I'm sure I can get it out.
Your pilot bit broke when it was just getting ready to go through the other side of the beam it’s kind of on the same when ya use hole saws and cut holes in steel when ya break through and some times when ya go through the hole saw grabs and breaks pilot but I found whe n I use hole saw in steel I put a 1/4 “ washer on the pilot bit then the washer kind of acts like a buffer then when I go through I remove the washer and it seems just perfect just an old electrical thing I picked up over 25 years
Definitely wrong tool for the job. Thanks for all the information you put out for us. Just wondering, would it still impact if you put it in reverse? I know the bit will cut in reverse.
The shape of that holesaw suggests it's made to cut thinner sheet material, not a thicker material. The hole hawg range is for thicker materials hence their shape
One thing about the oil fwiw. ..oil is for cooling and cutting....some oils provide too much lubricity and others help the teeth grab the steel ...just the lubricity is different and some oils will cause the teeth to slip right over the cutting surface while others promote cutting.... and oil specifically formulated for cutting I think would give a better outcome.... although the 3 and 1 would work eventually
Hay Vince,. Fein makes very nice bits for metal work. If you can please look in to them. Fein also makes a nice compact core driller for that sort of work. The Milwaukee bits are okay, just out of there league for that type of metal work. Also Metabo makes great metal bits and tools.
Great stuff! Thought it was funny that you're trying to keep it from impacting when the hole! point is that these are designed for impacts. I'll prolly not buy these. I'd just as soon pull out my drill. Thanks for the good stuff!
Hey Vince it's definitely wrong holesaw for drilling in heavy thick steel and yes I like to think I am expert. I use these holesaws on daily basis at work and they are actually designed for drilling in metal sheet up to 2-3mm of thickness- always work perfect with little bit of cutting paste(grease)or cutting compound. Paste or grease or similar work much beeter than oil. If you drill in thick metal you should try TCT holesaws (Tungsten Carbide Tipped )- they "eat" metal away so easily. Love your Channel , Keep up good work👍
So you're saying these are impact ready so long as I never engage the impact function, and they can be used to cut through heavy steel, but only in the same sense that it's possible to use a scooter to transport me from New York to LA? Sounds good. In all seriousness though, I'm pretty sure they are just using the I beam as a symbol for steel. A package for one of my OMT blades has an I beam on it, but I'm sure if I ever tried to cut one in half with an OMT I'd die of old age first.
With over 100,000 subscribers Milwaukee has an obligation to send a tech rep to resolve the application, technique, or the misleading packaging graphics for the VCG, along with replacing the broken holes saws from the preceding video. Vince I have two questions: What is the Milwaukee Guarantee on this product and on the former beard blade or electric? BTW great video👍
Need a mag drill & annular cutter if you're gonna do that size holes in stuff that thick on a regular basis. I drilled out some 1.25" holes in some doubled up 1/4" plate for the vent on a BBQ pit using a hole saw and 1HP drill press & that even took forever. How about a mag drill review, guys? Fuel? 'eh?
I find Bosch pro stuff a little hit or miss , I find their stuff a little flimsy build quality wise , but they have some good drill bits , though I have not used their hole saws. Though I have used various generations of Bosch tools since the 80's I infact still have one of their Jigsaws from the late 80's in my basement workshop at home still going strong even if it is heavy compared to modern equipment , but that tool owes my no money , it's paid for it's self 100 X or more over 30 years.
As a commercial/industrial electrician that uses whole saws almost on a daily basis I can tell you it’s all about slow and wet. Whether you are using carbide or your traditional holesaw for those flimsy little things there, slow and wet is the Way to go my friend.
I would be curious to see you do the same test with a drill driver. I would also be interested in hearing your opinion on why everything is moving towards impacts or knowing what video to go look at if you have talked about this before? In my opinion an impact is not the proper tool to be doing any sort of drilling yet these companies market impacts as the new do it all tool. I kinda feel when impacts came out they had no purpose that is why they are the most common combo pack you can get, it was the only way to get anyone to buy them. They are to weak for most mechanical applications, and to strong for a lot of woodworking applications. Really the only thing they really do better than a regular drill driver at is driving long screws or lag bolts.
We've seen hole saws cut through thick steel like this MANY times. The whole point of the test is to test the impact claims of the manufacturer. Everything is "moving to" impact because most people are lazy fucks. They don't want to have to take TWO tools (drill driver and impact driver) and switch bits and whatever other things they don't want to do because they're lazy. Just because they make a wide variety of impact rated bits/tools, doesn't mean it's the right tool or the proper took for the job.
As an electrician I use my impact for probably 80% of the work I do and my drill for the other 20%. Each trade has different needs and uses for different tools. Using proper control on whatever you’re working on is a big key as well, just trying to power through things will always turn out bad.
Great video. I think Milwaukee needs to specify metal thickness or give direction on product usage for what they consider to be heavy metal. Still a pretty cool product though. Also get that spyder co sharpened, it seems to struggle a little on that plastic.
You are doing right this time but you miss one step you need to drill a hole near the side of the hole for chip clearing. I work in a concrete plant and we had to drill many holes in heavy angle iron . It also depends on what angle iron you use. Some angle iron is made with all kinds of metal and can have hard spots in it and you can’t drill it at all. The chips will clog the hole and make it very tough to drill.
id be keen to see this test done again with the pilot hole pre drilled but then just go flat out and hammer it in. might just make it worse but using impacts for drilling wood with spade bits i notice the spade is a lot less likely to over heat. with that my spade bits last longer. might be the same in this situation. by going easy on it its been able to build up more friction and has taken a lot longer to drill the hole.... worth a test? and for those saying this isnt the right tool for the job... yes obviously a combi with a real hole saw is better all day long ... unless its up somewhere awkward and you dont have the space. something that can do the job when you're stuck this could be helpful
The spring inside that hole saw is fully compressed and is now keeping the hole saw from sawing through that 1/2 thick steel. That steel is simply too thick for that hole saw. Great vids
Louie Guda Totally agree!!! Bottomed out on the self ejecting mechanism
Yes, my same thought.
then why wouldnt it restart on the opposite side. had nothing to do with the spring
What would be the appropiate tool for cutting hole through 1/2 thick steel then?
That's what I was thinking I figured the packaging should say max cut depth but he could just run it into the wood there and see how deal it goes
Metal smith here! Typically any problem for a toothed hole saw will come from chip clearing. Any time you go through metal thicker than the height of the teeth, you will need to take a brake, and clear the channel with a brush to avoid chips filling the teeth and lifting them off the surface you’re cutting.
As for the pilot bit snapping/shattering, that comes from a super hardened pilot shaft made to be uniformly hardened to beat whatever material you’re trying to get through; however, this also causes whatever tool steel it is to be brittle at a certain torsion ceiling. The torsion that broke your bit the first time might have very well been such a thick piece of steel (softer hardness than the pilot bit) grabbing the end of the bit, and since the piece of metal was so large, the bit could not overpower it to cut through, so the resulting torsion exerted on the bit caused it to shatter.
Next time try this! For thick metal do slow and precise pilots, and then run the hole bit fast and hard til the teeth are almost filled (should only be about 20-25ish seconds at a time, and would be a better way to test the teeth themselves) clear the channel, reapply a little oil, then repeat the process til you’re through! If the teeth wear out or get dull, you have to consider the hardness of the material you’re cutting through, then you will know it’s limits. Remember not all angle iron/i-beams/mild steels are created equal, they all have a different hardness a tool needs to break through.
Love the videos as always, great community and always enjoy the info I gain!
Your determination is off the charts
Milwaukee owes you big time
For being 1 of there biggest cheerleaders
Good vid as usual man keep them coming...didnt recognize you with the baby face
I smashed the like button! I got and used these hole saw bits. They are great for drilling through aluminum. I use them on sheet aluminum and up to 1/8 inch thick aluminum. Obviously steel is a lot harder than the aluminum I use them on. They work great to drill through the aluminum.
Vince @VCG Cutting through the hardened steel i-beam is another level , slow and easy with Anular bits or super fast like CNC but continuously heavy cooled . Kudos to Milwaukee for trying to accomplish something out of the traditional ways. Like their cordless tools that continuously upgraded, hope will be possible also to their Cutting bits using simple tools we normally have
How cool, that Vince & VCG took the comments & tried again for us👍🏻.....not many channels would do this, far as I know.
Only Vince could model footwear & make an impact driver NOT impact all in the same vid......while bringing us great knowledge & content😉😆 Pretty darn great!
Cheers✌🏼
@VCG Construction after reading the comments, I found one mentioning the spring is probably the reason it wont go so deep. I never thought about this since i'm not used to hole-saws with springs, however it's probably the reason. Always helps to have another set of eyes.
Electrician sizes, not made for heavy steel like that. Package just means steel, stainless steel, plastic.
Stainless steal worse than heavy steel
They’re all hung up on the I-Beam designation on the packaging which doesn’t actually mean I-beams it just means metal, if you read the packing and website it says not to exceed 1/8” metal
@@franciscoverdugo4021 no not if it's thin
@@garradmiller5025 it still has a higher hardness rating than mild steel...
@@franciscoverdugo4021 not worse than your spelling
I use the holedozer with a similar method moderate pressure and the least impact blows as possible. I've made about 50 holes in sheet metal with the 7/8" saw before its toast.
I had almost forgotten what kind of knife Vince carries, thank god he reminded us...again lol great video
Lol
I can't seem to recall the color though... Weird.
Vince you coming back and doing follow up videos based on users opinions is what separates you from everyone else. Keep up the good work, love your videos.
@VCG Construction. Iv learned a trick on drilling heavy steal like that. Get some modeling clay and make a circle with it around the spot your gonna be drilling and fill it up with some drilling oil then drill your hole not sure if I explained it right but it’s a good trick to make drill bits last.
Good tip! Thanks
you can do this trick with more dan only heavy steal
Chalking gun and some silicone works too just wipe it up away from the hole you make
Thats a good way to waste time buds
That's genius: have to put some by my drill press!
From my experience anything starting at about 3/8 thick steel gets considerably harder to drill, especially holes over 1/2”. A lot of people heat things up too much and work harden the piece which makes it very hard to drill. Having the right tools for the job makes a big difference. I wish i could use my impact for everything as i enjoy using it more for multiple reasons. However my regular drill will always have its place in my box.
Hey VGC.. great video. I have the same kit that I use when I have to make holes in an electrical panel or switch gear enclosures. I've used these hole saws once on that hevi steel and found that the spring would bottom out. I believe that's what is happening here. Thank you for making these awesome videos. Can't wait for the next one.
Thanks buddy we appreciate the feedback!
Good work as always. Always keep in mind the material being steel or stainless. Just keep lubed and keep the drill bit cool and go slow. You covered it well. Keep up the good work.
as someone who drills thru metal daily and stayed at holiday in express last night go slow let the bit do the work and i put a magnet right next to hole I'm drilling to pull all the shavings away as i drill
Hey buddy forget the impact just use a regular drill and don’t charge customers by the hour
Really, use the right tools, use a real bimetal blade or an annular cutter.
agreed go with the drill when drilling makes the most sense to me.
Also Milwaukee accessories seem suspicious to me in their price policy...basically the other china made stuff + 100 bucks/euros/potatoes. Would be possible to try Bosch's stuff... speaking of which now there's a new Bosch impact driver with a socket square head with an internal hex that has switchable impact, so you could use it as a drill replacement for a 1 tool does it all situation... although there sure already is a similar thing by Milwaukee as well.
He is right there is a picture of an I-Beam on the package. So why not drill it?
It's just an icon milwaukee uses to represent "thick metal". On the packaging it tells you the thickness they really mean. Same icon is used on their sawzall blades and so on.
It's only an icon for easy reference at the store. Meaning "steel"... Just like one wouldn't drill though plasic pipe. But, the easy / quick reference icon & lets the consumer know one can use it on "plasic" ..
I've seen that on a bunch of things that are definitely not for cutting I beams. I've always taken it as indication for use in heavier metals not literally an I beam lol. Certain multi tool blades are marked that way and that just means it will go through steel nails or corner beads.
Because even blind freddy would know it couldn't do it
It was not made to drill a hole in a I beam that is a generic icon for steel I have a set look at the teeth they are small and will do thin wall because it can usually cut through before the teeth gets full of chips for that I beam get a spider titanium the teeth are larger and won't get chip packed as fast use the right tool for the job
I’ve done this.
Treat like drilling a hole in concrete with hammer drill.
Get started, then when the teeth stop showing-ish, drill a SECOND hole on the actual circle being cut. It creates a vent for debris so you don’t have to keep pulling out after teeth get gunked up.
The Para 2 is very nice. Very high on my list of knives to buy.
Its never a waste if you learn a lesson👌👍 even if it happened to be an expensive lesson 😂😂 good stuff brother keep em coming!
Good vid there Vince. As you mentioned, I think these bits work fine for PVC and thinner steel and sheet metal. The steel you are trying to drill through is 1/2 inch hardened steel and using an impact driver instead of a regular drill driver is asking too much. I've never had to drill through 1/2" hardened steel only 1/4" angle iron and I've always used HSS Cobalt bits and not hole saws. But I give you credit for giving it the good ole college try,. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience using these bits and cheers to VCG and the gang!!
Thanks William we appreciate it!
I saw you wrote that you believe the angle iron was in the hardened condition. What lead you to think that?
@@texasboy2005 its 1/2 A36 hot rolled.. not heat treated but it's got a decent hardness to it (Rockwell B76 ish) Aluminum, the gold standard for cutting metal is like Rockwell B40ish ... Rockwell B70 range is pretty hard stuff
@@nicksantos9234 The A36 alloy is a common, cheap, and mild steel. However, it's chemical make up does not bode well for chip breaking. Machinist would prefer to cut/machine through common 1018 steel plate over this anyday.
Designed with a robust ¼” quick change hex shank, Milwaukee® Shockwave Impact Duty™ Thin Wall Hole Saws give professionals a hole making solution to use with impact drivers. Utilizing a thin wall, 8 TPI design, Thin Wall Hole Saws deliver a burr-free cut up to 40% faster than standard bi-metal hole saws. The included ejection spring removes the frustration of manually removing slugs by automatically ejecting the material. A stop shoulder design prevents over-drilling into material and potentially damaging inner components of electrical and junction boxes. Choose Thin Wall Hole Saws for use in plastics and thin gauge metals up to 1/8” thick.
Website? That's not on the package!
You can't trust those marketing guys, they'll say anything. They say ⅛”? Don't believe 'em.
Great vid love the content personally I agree with you I would not go more than quarter inch on them bad boys 1/2 inch steel honestly I’d use a mag drill with a bore bit
Most people don't own a mag drill sadly. Certainly need some specialized tools to work with heavy steel. Otherwise you're gonna be there all day snapping bits
man, this is like some escape from alcatraz type s**t
the main wrong tool is the impact driver, a drill driver is the right tool
Hole saw needs to cut at a slower constant speed. A driver driver or more preferably a drill press is the way to go.
Yes you are correct way to much torque with the impact drill at slow speed only
Yes a drill driver or a drill press! If he doesn’t know that the impact driver is a silly choice to cut that hole, I question his background as a contractor. Just because it says impact rated and has the 1/4” insert doesn’t mean it’s a good idea. I watch his videos because he always reviews new things, so I don’t have to impulse buy a cool new tool.
If any of you actually watched the video you will see he explained the reason he was using an impact was because the hole saws were impact rated and he wanted to test that, but hey not everyone has the same attention span 😂😂😂
love my Spyderco PM2’s (and the m18 fuel gen 3 hammer/impact set I picked up the other day). Mainly carry a limited, but not sprint run, s35vn tan handle and silver blade. Missed your’s, in a PMII though, by a day or two.
Enjoy your videos. Very solid.
I think it's that spring on the inside that's keeping it from making progress, might be that it's depressed all the way but acts as a spacer towards the bottom of the hole saw? Idk I don't use those lol
Use a bimetal Milwaukee hole saw for comparison and use a cup to dip the bit in fluid.
@vcg construction outstanding job, thanks for listening to the gang, I guess it really was just a bridge to far. Catch you on the next one....... Andy London England
Your absolutely right my man if the pack says it's ok that means do it. You work with metal man look into surface feet and you will understand what people are talking about cutting to fast to slow. It changes with the cutting material and the .lateral being cut. High speed steel tool want slower speed then say carbide. Hole saws take those standard numbers and generally reduce them by 50% or so you dont have to be accurate just close enough to not burn the tool up
Spyderco para3 LW BD1N is my favorite Spyderco, Interesting testing.
Good attempt brother, keep up the great reviews! Spend many hours at work watching your videos. They keep me very entertained during the long hours of the graveyard shift.
Thanks!
I have been buying those for a while. There good but don’t seem to last. I’m an electrician so there for light duty holes in boxes. I have a hydraulic punch for the heavy duty stuff. But price comparison to the Klein hole saws is vast. One Klein hole saw for a 3/4 ko is 60-70 bucks but last way longer.
How U Doin! I too use the pilot hole 1st method. I use my Milwaukee hardened cobalt metal bits 1st though with actual cutting oil, slow speed with moderate pressure. Love your vids, U saved me $$$$
No problem with the procedure. I work with a lot of steel. There are different grades where some steel is easier to drill, put self tappers in. Other steel you struggle with it. I believe your testing material would be an extreme material for my work but yet a good test. Perhaps the teeth on the hole saw needs better material - similar to what is done with some circular saw blades. Then the safety aspect comes up with the steel bits flying around to possible teeth bits coming loose. Perhaps with half inch steel a person should use a torch if allowed. I don’t like packaging to imply it will do a job yet fail. The self eject design is very cool. Thanks - Vince for the extra effort.
Thanks Kevin we appreciate the feedback!
Love how u mentioned the knife..hell ya
I have foud that if I drill a hole the size of the pilot drill first then just use the pilot drill to just guide the hole saw , the pilot drill tends to pop off when it breaks through the steel
So Vince is it worth buying this M12 surge impact since its almost the same spec wise..as the 2553-20 .....If noise isnt an issue..??
What do you mean Raj?
@@VCGConstruction IS it worth spending the extra bean for.
I’ve bought these before, they are okay for rough walling, on thin metal studs to run mc and conduit. But they don’t last long though, usually the spring is the first thing to come off, then the little screw that holds the bit, you’re gonna need an Allen wrench to tighten it again but the damned thing strips so easily. I just don’t let other people use them anymore, because they don’t know how to properly use them to make them last longer, they usually last me 2-3 months if I’m doing a lot of wall rough, before they start to have problems, but they do make rough walling easier
18:40 “time to switch batteries!”…..No Vince, time to break out the plasma cutter 😂
You need the TKO from ideal Milwaukee also now makes them too they are for heavy gauge steel but they are twice as much as them for just one bit .if .you buy the kit they are cheaper just bought a 1/2 to 2inch kit for 270 from the supply house
I watch your stuff for the tools as a electrician, but I’m also a knife guy love to see both in your video keep up the good work!
Thanks Cayden we appreciate it!
Thanks for listening to us, Vince!
That steel looks like a job for a "real" hole saw and a 1/2" Milwaukee corded drill!😜
Thanks for the follow up video and attempt.
I looked up the HD listing for the saws. It does say in the description online, "up to 1/8" thick metal". It really should show that info on the package.
CONGRATS TO VCG ON 104,000 SUBSCRIBERS !!! 👍👍
Thanks king!
They are made for drilling into a electrical panel. Or electrical boxes like you demonstrated. The sizes of 7/8”, 1 1/8” and 1 3/8” are made for 1/2”, 3/4” and 1” conduit connectors.
If you don’t want it to impact why not use a drill and for drill bits it’s all about pressure you really need like 300+ pounds which is why drilling trough metal is so tough with anything but a brand new bit same goes with hole saws through metal and I’ll say that their hole dozers go through steel like butter I’ve drilled plenty through 1/2in steel with them. Great vid gang 👍🏻👍🏻
And the hole got full of metal dust/oil pancake batter just needed to blow it out with an air compressor
Thanks ADD!!
i run the hole dozers in steel from .120 up to 1/2" they work awesome and last a good long time, even in a tubing notcher and .120 wall dom steel tubing!!
When I first bought these impact ready hole saws I thought it would save me a lot of time and energy compared to carrying around a chuck drill n case of hole saw bits. Had a building outage sometime later and used it to make a couple 3/4” holes in a panel. After the first hole the pilot bit bust.. good thing I still had my old set up.
LOVE the outtro! I have a similar one!
day hitten em buttons cuz
3 in 1 oil is a lubricating oil, not a cutting oil. Use a true cutting oil for best results. I think you are bottoming out on the ejector spring, with the spring fully compressed. As you said they aren’t designed for thicker steel!
Holy thick ass steel!!! Like you shouldn't be surprised if it doesn't make it through
I use them almost every day as an electrician. I never use my impact, unless I need a quick hole and my drill/driver isn’t handy. For drilling in pull cans, I get the pilot through and just let gravity do the rest. It helps with the longevity of the saw.
I think you did a pretty fair attempt. You actually went a lot further than I would have went. Will you now do a video of a hole saw that will go through that I beam.
I looked these bits up after seeing the video, and maybe I'm mistaken, but I saw it mentioned they are for lighter metals UP TO 1/4 INCH... My guess is its supposed to be ok if you hit metal studs or if you need to drill into an electrical box as you did in your video
Looks to me like the ejector spring is fully compressed and not letting it cut any deeper. 1/2 inch is pretty thick stuff.
What an adventure this one was. Agreed, it is not the right tool for the job. I don't think most hole saws are meant for over 1/8" steel. The I beam picture is just the unfortunate visual symbol chosen to say a tool is rated for metal on general. Didn't actually indicate thick metal capabilities. It's silly. A lot of drill bits do list the actual max recommended thickness though.
I agree cuz, we appreciate the feedback!!
I will try with A regular drill every time I use a bit for a impact driver takes longer and the RPM is different for drilling. Just like a metal cutting saw and a regular cutting saw with a metal cutting blade
@vcgconstruction will definitly buy these hole saws when there isnt just a half assed, no storage container bs kit that is missing like every size.
No operator error-I don’t see it!
But now the question is, what tool will do it? I would like to see what tool will cut through that heavy steel!
Great video however could a none impact drill be better in this application to avoid triggering the impact mechanism?
hello, just checking product web page and says "...for use in plastics and thin gauge metals up to 1/8” thick" . Hope is helpful
DeWalt makes an electro magnetic drill press we have used when installing floating hand rails at malls makes quick easy work of large holes into thick steel.
You have to use your regular drill on low speed. I have carbide hole saws that I use for this same material. These Milwaukee holesaws will drill it just not with the impact.
The look on your face when putting your knife away. Same look on my face when my knife doesn't clip in the first time 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Always drill steel at a very slow speed to fast will dual the bit then it will get stuck and snap
I know someone else mentioned it, too, but the reason that you can't get through that steel is because the auto-eject device is bottoming out, and the steel is more than twice the thickness of the maximum depth of the bit.
I have one of these that I bought for mounting some specific stuff, and it worked great! Then, one day, I needed a hole through a piece of Plexiglas. Plexiglas melts when it gets hot. I have not been able to get the slug out of the big, though I have not tried all that hard, I'm sure I can get it out.
torch it out
Your pilot bit broke when it was just getting ready to go through the other side of the beam it’s kind of on the same when ya use hole saws and cut holes in steel when ya break through and some times when ya go through the hole saw grabs and breaks pilot but I found whe n I use hole saw in steel I put a 1/4 “ washer on the pilot bit then the washer kind of acts like a buffer then when I go through I remove the washer and it seems just perfect just an old electrical thing I picked up over 25 years
Definitely wrong tool for the job. Thanks for all the information you put out for us. Just wondering, would it still impact if you put it in reverse? I know the bit will cut in reverse.
The shape of that holesaw suggests it's made to cut thinner sheet material, not a thicker material. The hole hawg range is for thicker materials hence their shape
One thing about the oil fwiw. ..oil is for cooling and cutting....some oils provide too much lubricity and others help the teeth grab the steel ...just the lubricity is different and some oils will cause the teeth to slip right over the cutting surface while others promote cutting.... and oil specifically formulated for cutting I think would give a better outcome.... although the 3 and 1 would work eventually
Also the teeth are not very deep valley's so it cut eject the chips on that thick steel
Hay Vince,. Fein makes very nice bits for metal work. If you can please look in to them. Fein also makes a nice compact core driller for that sort of work. The Milwaukee bits are okay, just out of there league for that type of metal work. Also Metabo makes great metal bits and tools.
Some people suggested to cut a pilot hole to help the pilot bit.
My as well plasma cut a hole first too!
You always do a good job explaining stuff. Thanks Vince!
Thanks Dragon!
Holy shit who is the new guy talkin. I think it might work with a regular drill instead of a impact
It's made for the impact driver that's why he's using it with 1
This had me pulling my hair out!
Great stuff! Thought it was funny that you're trying to keep it from impacting when the hole! point is that these are designed for impacts. I'll prolly not buy these. I'd just as soon pull out my drill. Thanks for the good stuff!
Thanks a lot Vince, appreciate you guys!
I like them the only problem is the set screw gets bent and you can’t use the bit anymore
Brother, I have to drill SS regularly. You need to put "Lenox" drilling oil. SS work hardens slow and low temp smoke oil will save bits and hole saws
Hey Vince it's definitely wrong holesaw for drilling in heavy thick steel and yes I like to think I am expert.
I use these holesaws on daily basis at work and they are actually designed for drilling in metal sheet up to 2-3mm of thickness- always work perfect with little bit of cutting paste(grease)or cutting compound. Paste or grease or similar work much beeter than oil.
If you drill in thick metal you should try TCT holesaws (Tungsten Carbide Tipped )- they "eat" metal away so easily.
Love your Channel ,
Keep up good work👍
I wonder if I should try regular grease next time (I don't have cutting type)?
What bits and hole saw bits would you recommend for that type of steel?
So you're saying these are impact ready so long as I never engage the impact function, and they can be used to cut through heavy steel, but only in the same sense that it's possible to use a scooter to transport me from New York to LA? Sounds good. In all seriousness though, I'm pretty sure they are just using the I beam as a symbol for steel. A package for one of my OMT blades has an I beam on it, but I'm sure if I ever tried to cut one in half with an OMT I'd die of old age first.
With over 100,000 subscribers Milwaukee has an obligation to send a tech rep to resolve the application, technique, or the misleading packaging graphics for the VCG, along with replacing the broken holes saws from the preceding video. Vince I have two questions: What is the Milwaukee Guarantee on this product and on the former beard blade or electric? BTW great video👍
Need a mag drill & annular cutter if you're gonna do that size holes in stuff that thick on a regular basis. I drilled out some 1.25" holes in some doubled up 1/4" plate for the vent on a BBQ pit using a hole saw and 1HP drill press & that even took forever. How about a mag drill review, guys? Fuel? 'eh?
Are you going to try the bosch version of them
We can
I find Bosch pro stuff a little hit or miss , I find their stuff a little flimsy build quality wise , but they have some good drill bits , though I have not used their hole saws. Though I have used various generations of Bosch tools since the 80's I infact still have one of their Jigsaws from the late 80's in my basement workshop at home still going strong even if it is heavy compared to modern equipment , but that tool owes my no money , it's paid for it's self 100 X or more over 30 years.
I love Milwaukee tools, but when it come to drill bits, hole saws and saw blades diablo is my weapon of choice. Great video though
You did your best, thanks for trying it the "right way"
As a commercial/industrial electrician that uses whole saws almost on a daily basis I can tell you it’s all about slow and wet. Whether you are using carbide or your traditional holesaw for those flimsy little things there, slow and wet is the Way to go my friend.
Great Video Bro! Thx Vince & VCG BROS
I would be curious to see you do the same test with a drill driver. I would also be interested in hearing your opinion on why everything is moving towards impacts or knowing what video to go look at if you have talked about this before? In my opinion an impact is not the proper tool to be doing any sort of drilling yet these companies market impacts as the new do it all tool. I kinda feel when impacts came out they had no purpose that is why they are the most common combo pack you can get, it was the only way to get anyone to buy them. They are to weak for most mechanical applications, and to strong for a lot of woodworking applications. Really the only thing they really do better than a regular drill driver at is driving long screws or lag bolts.
We've seen hole saws cut through thick steel like this MANY times. The whole point of the test is to test the impact claims of the manufacturer. Everything is "moving to" impact because most people are lazy fucks. They don't want to have to take TWO tools (drill driver and impact driver) and switch bits and whatever other things they don't want to do because they're lazy. Just because they make a wide variety of impact rated bits/tools, doesn't mean it's the right tool or the proper took for the job.
As an electrician I use my impact for probably 80% of the work I do and my drill for the other 20%. Each trade has different needs and uses for different tools. Using proper control on whatever you’re working on is a big key as well, just trying to power through things will always turn out bad.
A great test young Brother. Thanks for your diligence
What happens when the metal is of the same hardness as the drilling bit?
Great video. I think Milwaukee needs to specify metal thickness or give direction on product usage for what they consider to be heavy metal. Still a pretty cool product though. Also get that spyder co sharpened, it seems to struggle a little on that plastic.
You are doing right this time but you miss one step you need to drill a hole near the side of the hole for chip clearing. I work in a concrete plant and we had to drill many holes in heavy angle iron . It also depends on what angle iron you use. Some angle iron is made with all kinds of metal and can have hard spots in it and you can’t drill it at all. The chips will clog the hole and make it very tough to drill.
Shout out to BladeHQ! I'm a knife guy and have a blurple Para 3! lol!
id be keen to see this test done again with the pilot hole pre drilled but then just go flat out and hammer it in. might just make it worse but using impacts for drilling wood with spade bits i notice the spade is a lot less likely to over heat. with that my spade bits last longer. might be the same in this situation. by going easy on it its been able to build up more friction and has taken a lot longer to drill the hole.... worth a test? and for those saying this isnt the right tool for the job... yes obviously a combi with a real hole saw is better all day long ... unless its up somewhere awkward and you dont have the space. something that can do the job when you're stuck this could be helpful
is the spring ejector stoping the bit from going any farther?
Possibly