When I seen your post it reminded of when Kodak every 2 years or so would send me a good sized box of film to try and give them feedback on. It was usually a mixture of 35mm and 120. At that time they were starting to close their Kodachrome processing plants for K14. So I was happy to find an E6 alternative besides Velvia and Provia. Two of the films were Ektachrome 100 VS and Ektachrome 100 SW. The 100 VS was saturated like Velvia 50 and the 100 SW ( saturated- warm ) was like an E6 version of K64. I just went out to my freezer got out rolls of both types in 35 and 120 so now it looks like I have a project to do.
But the thing about Kodachrome is that it really matched what you saw with your eyes. It had great contrast. It was really snappy like high contrast film but you could see deep into the shadows and it didn't blow out the highlights. I was lucky enough to shoot it for about 15 years before they discontinued it. K25 was by far the best. K64 was good but a little spooky. And K200 was more like taking a water color picture. But the slide films they have now are great too. But nothing looked like Kodachrome. Country to popular belief it did not saturate colors. But if the colors were there then you could really see them accurately. Because it was dye based you saw a huge color gamut. Digital monitors only show a small amount of color. They work at sRGB. So you will never be able to see a Kodachrome slide 100% accurately unless you view it with your own eyes in person.
I agree, but for some of us with sensitive eyesight, it “matched what you saw with your eyes” very well, IF your eyes were looking through polarizing filters. My eyes have always been sensitive to glare, or polarized light, so to me Kodachrome (and its long-time cinematic contemporary Technicolor) always seemed idealized. I remember in my late teens when I discovered polarized sunglasses, I think from a TV commercial, and I immediately fell in love with them. I described them as Kodachrome glasses.
The closest 35mm film to Kodachrome is Elite Chrome EBX Extra Color which was the 35mm version of E100 VS in 120. You can find it cold-stored since new and will work at box speed. There are some bulk rolls for sale on Australian eBay right now. After Kodak ceased Kodachrome Steve McCurry switched over to E100 VS. McCurry's National Geographic portrait of the Afghan Girl is the best known example of Kodachrome’s capacity to capture colour, but he too has switched to digital or other film. In a statement, he said: "In fact, when I returned to shoot the Afghan Girl 17 years later, I used Kodak Professional Ektachrome Film E100VS to create that image." Another trick to get that Kodachrome National Geographic look was that the old timers always underexposed by 1/3 of a stop to get more saturated colours and deeper black, Steve McCurry told me that trick personally. Nice to see you are actually making slides and projecting them. I am in the middle of a project shooting Super-Slides which are the same 2x2 mounts but an image size 85% larger. I discuss this in depth in a recent article .... casualphotophile.com/2020/08/05/the-sawyers-mark-iv-a-miniature-rolleiflex-2-8/
I'm with you on this Hashem! Pushing film is what is in your title and creating new looks that keep you guessing on how you did this will challenge others that may be in a creative rut! Great job my friend! This is why I love film photography and pushing film to the next level!
You'd want to use a colour picker chart to give you a reference to the changes. You could also search for an old Kodachrome colour chart to see how close you are to the original.
I shot on Kodachrome from 1974 until The Very End, and I also have family Kodachrome slides back to the 1950's. The various Kodachrome films over the years had very different looks, from the very saturated (10 ASA) film of the 1950s, via the fairly low contrast and neutral Kodachrome II (c.1963) and 25 (c.1975), to the rather more saturated and often magenta-looking K64 and the neutral K200. Your pushed E100 reminds me of Ektachrome 50 I shot and home processed in the early to mid-1990's (edge mark was EM50) - Nicely saturated and more contrasty than Kodachrome. When home processing Ektachrome, the results can be spectacular with good chemicals and technique and it is not too difficult. A 2-stop 'push' is usually about the limit with E-6 films. A half-stop 'pull' can cut harsh contrast without noticeable colour shift. Nice video, thank you.
@@carlomac Yes, his pictures looked like Kodachrome 64. There was also a K64P 'professional' version that was manufactured 'on aim', without the colour cast if it was stored cold.
The results look beautiful and experiments on the shoot is all the practical fun, its like building a model with clay and painting and drying it vs building in 3D software. You work with physical objects and experiment and get the results, its a beautiful emotional experience and the results are such a pay off, even if they come out not the way you want, they come out in a certain way that helps you decide what you want to do next. Its a never ending process for those who like to experiment to find out the results. I do hope at some point they make Kodachrome film and the labs again, because it's beautiful in color
Awesome results Hashem, so glad someone has made a proper video on this. I've heard Provia pushed 1 or 2 stops also has a very similar effect, so could be worth a try next time. Great work!
That came out looking really good Hasham, will have to try that myself next time I put a roll of Ektachrome through one of my cameras. love how it made the colours pop a bit more...great video as always.
Fantastic idea! And especially the shot of the girl reading and the plant in the foreground looks very Kodachrome-ish to me. In any case, great colors!
I've never tried pushing slide film, i always thought that with the limited dynamic range it has it would probably be unusable after pushing it. But that's definitely not the case. Your results are very crisp. Range is compressed but looks good when exposed properly. And the warming filter gives some interesting results, i really enjoy warmer tones. I love your shot at 2:24, all the colours and the skin tones look beautiful. And the images at 2:13-14. The sky and the scene on the 2:14 one looks like it's from a movie. Will definitely keep it in mind and try pushing it whenever i have a suiting subject/place.
Dude this is so f**ing cool. Amazing video. I’m a film photographer in NYC and I mostly shoot slide film. I will most definitely try this. I’ve been trying so hard to get this exact look IN CAMERA. You did a killer job. Thank you and bravo
You are on the right track!! I have shot a lot of the new E100 and it's basically all I want to shoot for colour now! I almost always have a 81A warming filter on the lens or sometimes something stronger such as the 81C you are using. I have not pushed yet but IMO the warming filter is just a basic must unless you like the cooler look. I have also fount Provia very cool and I would also recommend a warming filter with that. Velvia does really well without a filter but it's not as useful as E100. I have a roll loaded right now that I'm shooting at ISO 200 so I shall see how it goes.
I'm so glad this video popped up in my feed! I'm about to go out to Monument Valley and I'm going to try and shoot a bunch of Ektachrome. And in preparation I got a ND Grad filter along with a Skylight filter. I've been searching all over the web for examples of the skylight filter to see if it will be worth using and all I could find was digital shooters saying to throw away your UV filters. It's so great to see the skylight filter in use on Ektrachrome. Why aren't more people using this?! Complaints about the blue/green cast appear to be easily assuaged with this filter that was very popular back in the day. Hmmm, I wonder why?! Fixing things in photoshop should be a last resort, IMO. Thanks again for the great video.
HI Hasham. "Sense of experimentation". You got me. I will try it on 35mm and 120 and forward them to you. Great challenge! Thanks for encouraging the photog community.
Great results, as having used the old Ektachrome for years, with great results, I’ve been disappointed with this new Ektachrome’s pale, washed out color rendering! I’ll try this out! Thanks.....
That's really great, Hashem. I bought 5 rolls of E100 when it was released new. Putting one roll through my Olympus range finder, I was rather disappointed, especially because I shot heaps of Kodachrome 64 in the past and loved that film. The cool tones of E100 were just not to my liking. Your results persuade me to have a go at the remaining rolls which sit in the fridge ever since.
We all want Kodachrome back. Well, any of us who are SANE want Kodachrome back. 😀 But, Kodachrome was a unique process that can't be done by any other film unless they use the same film and the same processing. Probably the best thing is to shoot a well-lighted, properly exposed image and use a Kodachrome emulator to give you that Kodachrome look. Thanks for showing us in this video how to try to emulate Kodachrome in a more organic way!
I’ve pushed E100 once with my Hasselblad and it turned out to be the best ideas since that extra stop allowed for better results in the colour style I personally like. But watching this and adding that sky/warm filter actually may bring me to shoot colour again lol
I’m glad you made the video. I shoot a lot of provia and at times the results were becoming boring (too good, almost looked like digital). I don’t often like the cross processed look, but pushing it with filtration gives a result I would enjoy. Thanks
Great work! I've just picked up my first roll of Ektachrome E100, and have both of these filters available to me. I'm tempted to try shooting 3 versions of each image, one without the filters, one with just the 1A and one with both. Fortunately I got the film for crazy cheap otherwise I probably wouldn't risk "wasting" so much of it. Thanks for the video, you've picked up a new subscriber!
Looks great! This is my go to method for Ektachrome, I really like that look. Pushing to 400 works great too. I don't really get much colour shifts, but the contrast increases even more. Not too much though, it's still very usable. It's still super clean at 400, very little grain at all. And that intense blue gets even more intense :-)
@@myfavoritethings1967 Oooh, I guess it will be pretty damn contrasty! Don't know about the colour shifts, but I bet it will still be pretty fine grained. It's very impressive at 400.
Interesting experiment. The best slide film I've used since Kodachrome is Fuji Provia. It has a very natural colour balance in daylight conditions, it leans more to the warm side near sunset and has a nice saturated look overall (but not exaggerated like Velvia). *note that it's Fuji's default film simulation on Fuji digital cameras. I've been advised by my local lab (National Photo in Harajuku, Tokyo) that it can easily be pushed 1 stop which of course adds a bit more contrast but gives a bit more speed. Haven't tried the "new" Ektachrome as I'm not keen on the cool look though adding a warming filter seems to have given you a nice result. Experimentation with film is fun and I constantly push the envelope to get the maximum results and learn more in the process. That's what it's all about isn't it? Thanks for the video!
Absolutely! Old warming filters are easy to come by, and depending on the lab a small push should be easy. I guess it makes more sense economically to buy Provia over there, but the new E100 is really worth trying if you haven't yet 🙂
I have many Kodachrome slides in my archive , I did a comparison with some scene using the new kodak e100 and I can't really see much difference. K64 seem to me even a little bit grainy, and a little colder. I really love the new e100 and his new neutral cast. I think that the look is really influenced by the moment you shoot, for example sunrise or sunset, and the scene contrast over all. I main use the new e100 as everyday use film, I did many test using it ad 100, +1 and +2, but I prefer the nominal speed. I really appreciate the results using with overcast or blu hour the 81a and 81c hoya filters.
You might want to check out BW Reversal - slides from standard negative film - awesome latitude and film characteristics are right on vinyl screen to enjoy in the most raw format possible.
Tiffen has a enhancement filter. Anything brown, red and, rust, isn't more saturated, but the filter let's them really pop by adding Didymium minerals into a clear glass filter. I'm buying it for ektachrome, and I'm testing it out in my city, against a roll with Sky1a and a roll with no filter and roll shot with a warming (sky1a) Polarizer. Each roll not exactly scientific, but shot in the morning, noon all the way to evening lights.
@@alexstarkey9087 Yes but also increase contrast and colour saturation through out the whole image. Combine that with pushing the film and you get more vibrant dynamic images.
Mainly because I wanted a warming effect and a polariser wouldn't provide that. Besides the contrast aspect, I was also curious to see any effect the underexposure and push would have on colour shifts. I would potentially use a poliriser on top of the others in the future... but I mainly find them effective with skies/clouds and reflective surfaces when the light is coming in at side angles.
@@pushingfilm You could try using a warm polarizer like the one from Tiffen. It combines an 812 (which is very good with ektachrome) with a polarizer.
Loving the look you got out of this, it looks pretty similar to what you can achieve with kodachrome! Did you compensate for the extra stop of exposure when developing or did you just go about it like normal?
@@pushingfilm thanks! Sounds good! I was looking for this kind of look long time, admiring strong saturated reds of old Kodachrome photos, and these your photos look really quite similar.
Hey! Yeah, so ideally if you shoot slide film at a different speed than what's one the box, definitely tell the lab so they can process it accordingly. For the warming filters, I would try ebay or B&H. Sometimes you'll also find them at cameras stores or thrift stores.
@@pushingfilm Thanks. I just put through my first roll of 35mm Colorplus, and pushed it a stop. Scanned using Silverfast software on my Plustek. It has whats called Negafix. Like a built in NLP. I havent tried LR or NLP. Hoping my shotes were sharper then they came out. Can i put this down to my shooting, or something else? Would be great if i could show you some. Do you ever critique/feedback?
Just let them know how many stops you underexposed or overexposed. In this case, for example, I underexposed the film one stop (exposed at 200) so I asked the lab to Push +1 stop.
Great share. There really is nothing to beat a spread of slide film on a lightable. It just looks amazing doesn't it. I've not done much of the experiments you refer to because Ektachrome is just too expensive for me to ruin. So I've only shot it at EI100 or EI80. One area I really did notice that I should have used a filter was when shooting in my house under artificial light - i.e. normal room lights. I got a terrible orange cast. But then that was my fault. Nice work though sir. Good work.
@@pushingfilm I sure have, and it sure does. In fact, I even have a medium format 120 projector...the Hasselblad PCP-80. Looks awesome. The only snag is that here in the UK there is nowhere that mounts MF slides as part of the development process. So I have to buy the Gepe glass mounts and then mount them myself, which is both expesnive (at around £20 for a box of 20 or so) and time consuming. But yes I also have a 35mm projector and I can get those mounted as part of the service. So for projection, I typically use 35mm. But it does look quite special in 120 on a light table or projected.
Hya there and great video! I love the colors. Sorry if it's a dumb question but did you stack the two filters on top of each other? Or is it either one or the other but not both at the same time?
I will answer for him. Skylight 1a, reduces blue, +warmth even in shade. 85c filter is a koda,ekta and agfacolor, 1/3 f stop factor to prevent overexposure of blue layer. (never any stacking on correction lens or color filters for B&W. Also, I watched a video of using expired 1979 extachrome and he added 1 stop per decade and it worked, box asa was horrible. The light blue filter 81c he mentioned was different than my 1957 Tiffen filter guide which shows 81c as permits clear flash and in 81d mentions will render warmer results than 81c. I think 81c is just for flash, but skylight 1a to 1.1 reduces blue. 81EF for M2flash with ektachrome. In short....85c is specific to overexposure to blue...dont use polerizers...it deepens saturation and makes blues bluer....
I use mainly slide film, Provia, Ektachrome and Velvia 50. The new Ektachrome is nice, i use it a lot, but honestly there will never be anything with quite like look of Kodachrome.
thank you for trying and sharing this! I found this video at the perfect time as I'm new to film photography but haven't seemed to be able to find a film that's close enough to my personal style as I usually prefer a more underexposed, high contrast lit scene rather than overexposed. I just bought my first couple rolls of Ektachrome last week and am excited to try it out - will definitely look into trying the filters you suggested sometime! love the deep shadows and color and high contrast in your photos shown here. just to understand correctly as I haven't tried having my film push processed before, did you rate your roll at 200 ISO in your camera and then develop/ask the lab to push develop it one stop or at ISO 100 - or how does it work exactly?
It‘s hard to replicate Kodachrome because there were so many iterations of it. E100 gets you close. I even prefer Provia. The filter isn‘t necessary. Kodachrome is so special because it has the sharpness of a black and white image and some intense color seperation going on. A clean Provia or E100 shot needs some work in post. It‘s experimental but I made some great progress by adding a black and white layer, setting it to overlay, reducing the transparency and playing with the color values. From that on I add a curve adjustment, set it to luminance and adjust the rgb curves separately. There is no way to scientifically get there. It requires a lot of practice and a lot of watching kodachrome slides.
Were the photos in the video edited? They look great, but I'm just wondering if the effects of the filters and pushing the film will give me similar results
They're not edited, but there's always some inherent difference when digitising slides, even when trying to get them to look like the actual film on a lightbox. Many other factors will affect the way the color looks ranging from the light/scene, lab/chemicals, lens/filter variables, not to mention the digital side of things with images and video. Even though you still might get similar results, I'd probably expect some variation... which is part of the fun! Looking forward to seeing your results if you try it :) 81B would be worth trying too
How much more graininess do you get? BTW you're right, it's more rewarding to experiment with the film than to spend any amount of time on a computer applying any one of a million different combinations of looks. But at the end of the day, I don't see any particular need to try and improve an emulsion. Just let the film do the talking.
Nice work! Back in the 70s, when we wanted punchier colors, Kodachrome slides would be duped in our slide copiers with Kodachrome film (instead of the mellower slide dupe films). Guys like Pete Turner and Eric Meola were at the forefront of this with wonderfully colorful surreal images. I really don’t think Classic Chrome is anything like Kodachrome; it has a Kodak vibe but definitely nothing like real Kodachrome. The guys who made those claims don’t really know Kodachrome...
Loved the sample photos and the way they look. So great! This almost looks sort of like a hybrid between the way how Classic Negative on Fuji and Positive Film on Ricoh GR look! Only if slides weren't so expensive to process locally.
Ah, craving Kodachrome. It's truly sad that we will probably never see the heights of Kodachrome color reproduction again. Thanks a bunch for trying this, I've been wanting to do this for a while. I actually like the results! It's not Kodachrome, but it does have that slide look, and it's the closest you can get. It's such a shame films like Sakurachrome by Konica and Rollei Digibase are discontinued, those were pretty close. What I've noticed when studying Kodachrome images (mostly by Gruyaert and Webb) is that the blacks aren't always very deep blacks, especially in Gruyaert's photos. There's little information in the shadows and it's high contrast but it seems more like a very dark gray or slightly desaturated black. I feel like the greens will be the hardest to reproduce with Kodachrome.
Try an 85 or 85b. I’ve got a bunch of Kodak 5071 film which I’ve shot with both of those filters. I think the 85 definitely gave it a Kodachrome look. Message me on Instagram if you want to see examples @fashionistalori.
Du bist lustig. Dia-Film benutzt man richtig, indem man die neben der Belichtung, mit einem Colormeter, die Farbtemperatur misst und dann einen entsprechenden Konversionsfilter am Objektiv benutzt, wenn notwendig.
Nothing will look like Kodachrome 64 or 200. When ektachrome came out, no one wanted it. Kodak couldn’t sell it for their lives. And I’m telling you now the only reason ektachrome sells now is because Kodachrome is gone. Otherwise it wouldnt
When I seen your post it reminded of when Kodak every 2 years or so would send me a good sized box of film to try and give them feedback on. It was usually a mixture of 35mm and 120. At that time they were starting to close their Kodachrome processing plants for K14. So I was happy to find an E6 alternative besides Velvia and Provia. Two of the films were Ektachrome 100 VS and Ektachrome 100 SW. The 100 VS was saturated like Velvia 50 and the 100 SW ( saturated- warm ) was like an E6 version of K64. I just went out to my freezer got out rolls of both types in 35 and 120 so now it looks like I have a project to do.
this made a huge difference. def worth doing the changes you did!
But the thing about Kodachrome is that it really matched what you saw with your eyes. It had great contrast. It was really snappy like high contrast film but you could see deep into the shadows and it didn't blow out the highlights. I was lucky enough to shoot it for about 15 years before they discontinued it. K25 was by far the best. K64 was good but a little spooky. And K200 was more like taking a water color picture. But the slide films they have now are great too. But nothing looked like Kodachrome. Country to popular belief it did not saturate colors. But if the colors were there then you could really see them accurately. Because it was dye based you saw a huge color gamut. Digital monitors only show a small amount of color. They work at sRGB. So you will never be able to see a Kodachrome slide 100% accurately unless you view it with your own eyes in person.
I agree, but for some of us with sensitive eyesight, it “matched what you saw with your eyes” very well, IF your eyes were looking through polarizing filters. My eyes have always been sensitive to glare, or polarized light, so to me Kodachrome (and its long-time cinematic contemporary Technicolor) always seemed idealized. I remember in my late teens when I discovered polarized sunglasses, I think from a TV commercial, and I immediately fell in love with them. I described them as Kodachrome glasses.
we have high color gambut tvs and monitors now. 1 billion colors 14 bit 4:4:4 HDR etc
@ which color gamut?
Great idea! The results are looking really nice. Will try a filter next time I am shooting E100. 😊👌🏼
We’ll be watching
Thanks Robin! I'll watch out for that in a video. I think the 81 filters make the most noticeable difference.
The closest 35mm film to Kodachrome is Elite Chrome EBX Extra Color which was the 35mm version of E100 VS in 120. You can find it cold-stored since new and will work at box speed. There are some bulk rolls for sale on Australian eBay right now.
After Kodak ceased Kodachrome Steve McCurry switched over to E100 VS. McCurry's National Geographic portrait of the Afghan Girl is the best known example of Kodachrome’s capacity to capture colour, but he too has switched to digital or other film. In a statement, he said: "In fact, when I returned to shoot the Afghan Girl 17 years later, I used Kodak Professional Ektachrome Film E100VS to create that image."
Another trick to get that Kodachrome National Geographic look was that the old timers always underexposed by 1/3 of a stop to get more saturated colours and deeper black, Steve McCurry told me that trick personally.
Nice to see you are actually making slides and projecting them. I am in the middle of a project shooting Super-Slides which are the same 2x2 mounts but an image size 85% larger. I discuss this in depth in a recent article .... casualphotophile.com/2020/08/05/the-sawyers-mark-iv-a-miniature-rolleiflex-2-8/
I'm with you on this Hashem! Pushing film is what is in your title and creating new looks that keep you guessing on how you did this will challenge others that may be in a creative rut! Great job my friend! This is why I love film photography and pushing film to the next level!
Thanks Lang! Appreciate the kind words and positive perspective 😁
You'd want to use a colour picker chart to give you a reference to the changes. You could also search for an old Kodachrome colour chart to see how close you are to the original.
Good idea! 🙂
I shot on Kodachrome from 1974 until The Very End, and I also have family Kodachrome slides back to the 1950's. The various Kodachrome films over the years had very different looks, from the very saturated (10 ASA) film of the 1950s, via the fairly low contrast and neutral Kodachrome II (c.1963) and 25 (c.1975), to the rather more saturated and often magenta-looking K64 and the neutral K200. Your pushed E100 reminds me of Ektachrome 50 I shot and home processed in the early to mid-1990's (edge mark was EM50) - Nicely saturated and more contrasty than Kodachrome. When home processing Ektachrome, the results can be spectacular with good chemicals and technique and it is not too difficult. A 2-stop 'push' is usually about the limit with E-6 films. A half-stop 'pull' can cut harsh contrast without noticeable colour shift. Nice video, thank you.
Great insight! Thank you 🙂
Hi Jon, if you’re familiar with Steve McCurrys work, what version of Kodachrome do you think he used, Kodachrome 64?
@@carlomac Yes, his pictures looked like Kodachrome 64. There was also a K64P 'professional' version that was manufactured 'on aim', without the colour cast if it was stored cold.
@@jonz2984 interesting, I didn’t know that, thanks Jon!
Those colours turned out fantastic!
They look great and will be trying it myself for sure , thanks for the heads up !
Looking great. Definitely going to try the push.
The results look beautiful and experiments on the shoot is all the practical fun, its like building a model with clay and painting and drying it vs building in 3D software. You work with physical objects and experiment and get the results, its a beautiful emotional experience and the results are such a pay off, even if they come out not the way you want, they come out in a certain way that helps you decide what you want to do next. Its a never ending process for those who like to experiment to find out the results.
I do hope at some point they make Kodachrome film and the labs again, because it's beautiful in color
Awesome results Hashem, so glad someone has made a proper video on this. I've heard Provia pushed 1 or 2 stops also has a very similar effect, so could be worth a try next time. Great work!
Thanks man! Yeah I'm hoping to see more stuff like that... slide holds up so nice in terms of the grain
Nice shots man. I enjoyed the video. It's always fun to watch people trying new things.
Appreciate it!!
That came out looking really good Hasham, will have to try that myself next time I put a roll of Ektachrome through one of my cameras. love how it made the colours pop a bit more...great video as always.
Thank you! :-)
The photo of your partner outside reading a book is subtly outstanding. I think you really nailed the k-chrome vibes.
Fantastic idea! And especially the shot of the girl reading and the plant in the foreground looks very Kodachrome-ish to me. In any case, great colors!
holy shit!! this needs more views. what a great look
I've never tried pushing slide film, i always thought that with the limited dynamic range it has it would probably be unusable after pushing it. But that's definitely not the case. Your results are very crisp. Range is compressed but looks good when exposed properly. And the warming filter gives some interesting results, i really enjoy warmer tones. I love your shot at 2:24, all the colours and the skin tones look beautiful. And the images at 2:13-14. The sky and the scene on the 2:14 one looks like it's from a movie. Will definitely keep it in mind and try pushing it whenever i have a suiting subject/place.
Dude this is so f**ing cool. Amazing video. I’m a film photographer in NYC and I mostly shoot slide film. I will most definitely try this. I’ve been trying so hard to get this exact look IN CAMERA. You did a killer job. Thank you and bravo
Glad to hear it! Hope it works well for you too
You are on the right track!! I have shot a lot of the new E100 and it's basically all I want to shoot for colour now! I almost always have a 81A warming filter on the lens or sometimes something stronger such as the 81C you are using. I have not pushed yet but IMO the warming filter is just a basic must unless you like the cooler look. I have also fount Provia very cool and I would also recommend a warming filter with that. Velvia does really well without a filter but it's not as useful as E100. I have a roll loaded right now that I'm shooting at ISO 200 so I shall see how it goes.
I'm so glad this video popped up in my feed! I'm about to go out to Monument Valley and I'm going to try and shoot a bunch of Ektachrome. And in preparation I got a ND Grad filter along with a Skylight filter. I've been searching all over the web for examples of the skylight filter to see if it will be worth using and all I could find was digital shooters saying to throw away your UV filters. It's so great to see the skylight filter in use on Ektrachrome. Why aren't more people using this?! Complaints about the blue/green cast appear to be easily assuaged with this filter that was very popular back in the day. Hmmm, I wonder why?! Fixing things in photoshop should be a last resort, IMO. Thanks again for the great video.
Thanks! I hope you had good trip and get some nice photo results 🙂
Wow this is an interesting experiment. Really like the deeper colors.
HI Hasham. "Sense of experimentation". You got me. I will try it on 35mm and 120 and forward them to you. Great challenge! Thanks for encouraging the photog community.
Hey, love to hear that! Looking forward to it 😁
Great results, as having used the old Ektachrome for years, with great results, I’ve been disappointed with this new Ektachrome’s pale, washed out color rendering! I’ll try this out! Thanks.....
That's really great, Hashem. I bought 5 rolls of E100 when it was released new. Putting one roll through my Olympus range finder, I was rather disappointed, especially because I shot heaps of Kodachrome 64 in the past and loved that film. The cool tones of E100 were just not to my liking. Your results persuade me to have a go at the remaining rolls which sit in the fridge ever since.
Thanks for sharing! Now I got an idea what to do next spring with my 2 rolls :-) greetz from Berlin
We all want Kodachrome back. Well, any of us who are SANE want Kodachrome back. 😀 But, Kodachrome was a unique process that can't be done by any other film unless they use the same film and the same processing. Probably the best thing is to shoot a well-lighted, properly exposed image and use a Kodachrome emulator to give you that Kodachrome look. Thanks for showing us in this video how to try to emulate Kodachrome in a more organic way!
@@trainsplanesmore haha yeah, it's a sad truth that's hard to accept 🥲
Looks great. I think pushing slide film used to be a common technique to make the colors pop for magazines (skateboard mags for example)
This is extremely cool!
Damn! The final result looks awesome!
Convinced I need to push Ektachrome now
I’ve pushed E100 once with my Hasselblad and it turned out to be the best ideas since that extra stop allowed for better results in the colour style I personally like. But watching this and adding that sky/warm filter actually may bring me to shoot colour again lol
Great job - looks really good!
I really like how turn out, absolutely will try some day. Nice video btw
Thank you! Hope you enjoy it
I’m glad you made the video. I shoot a lot of provia and at times the results were becoming boring (too good, almost looked like digital). I don’t often like the cross processed look, but pushing it with filtration gives a result I would enjoy. Thanks
Glad you made this
Wow love the look! Just came over an old roll, might give this a shot!
Great as always
Great work! I've just picked up my first roll of Ektachrome E100, and have both of these filters available to me. I'm tempted to try shooting 3 versions of each image, one without the filters, one with just the 1A and one with both. Fortunately I got the film for crazy cheap otherwise I probably wouldn't risk "wasting" so much of it. Thanks for the video, you've picked up a new subscriber!
Thank you! That'd be a good test!
very nice looking shots.
Great colours
Looks great!
These look great.
Thanks!
I wish they brought back Kodachrome
Looks great! This is my go to method for Ektachrome, I really like that look.
Pushing to 400 works great too. I don't really get much colour shifts, but the contrast increases even more. Not too much though, it's still very usable. It's still super clean at 400, very little grain at all. And that intense blue gets even more intense :-)
I shot a whole roll of e100 and realized I was shooting @ 800 the whole time on my F2, so aye I guess I'll see how that turns out
@@myfavoritethings1967 Oooh, I guess it will be pretty damn contrasty! Don't know about the colour shifts, but I bet it will still be pretty fine grained. It's very impressive at 400.
@@myfavoritethings1967 How did it go?
Interesting experiment. The best slide film I've used since Kodachrome is Fuji Provia. It has a very natural colour balance in daylight conditions, it leans more to the warm side near sunset and has a nice saturated look overall (but not exaggerated like Velvia). *note that it's Fuji's default film simulation on Fuji digital cameras. I've been advised by my local lab (National Photo in Harajuku, Tokyo) that it can easily be pushed 1 stop which of course adds a bit more contrast but gives a bit more speed. Haven't tried the "new" Ektachrome as I'm not keen on the cool look though adding a warming filter seems to have given you a nice result. Experimentation with film is fun and I constantly push the envelope to get the maximum results and learn more in the process. That's what it's all about isn't it? Thanks for the video!
Absolutely! Old warming filters are easy to come by, and depending on the lab a small push should be easy. I guess it makes more sense economically to buy Provia over there, but the new E100 is really worth trying if you haven't yet 🙂
@@pushingfilm Will give it a try, thanks Hashem!
In my experience Provia is cooler than E100
a lot more people should take pictures with slide film again
I have many Kodachrome slides in my archive , I did a comparison with some scene using the new kodak e100 and I can't really see much difference. K64 seem to me even a little bit grainy, and a little colder. I really love the new e100 and his new neutral cast. I think that the look is really influenced by the moment you shoot, for example sunrise or sunset, and the scene contrast over all. I main use the new e100 as everyday use film, I did many test using it ad 100, +1 and +2, but I prefer the nominal speed. I really appreciate the results using with overcast or blu hour the 81a and 81c hoya filters.
Thank You, Wish that Kodachrome was back, I did like the PKL 200 Kodachrome, Love the Grain....
Ecktachrome 100e is just a revamp of the Ecktachrome that I shot alongside Kodachrome back in the 80s.
Yes and it's fantastic!
Hello, what was the book in the video ?! Thank you
That was William Eggleston's Portraits
Great job! Looks like i'll be getting a roll of ektachrome to try this haha!
You might want to check out BW Reversal - slides from standard negative film - awesome latitude and film characteristics are right on vinyl screen to enjoy in the most raw format possible.
Great video Hassem! I wish it was longer. I was wondering if you ever tried or think of trying the last E6 chemicals from Cinestill ?
Thank you! I have actually, but yet to find an affordable source to get it shipped to Australia
Tiffen has a enhancement filter. Anything brown, red and, rust, isn't more saturated, but the filter let's them really pop by adding Didymium minerals into a clear glass filter.
I'm buying it for ektachrome, and I'm testing it out in my city, against a roll with Sky1a and a roll with no filter and roll shot with a warming (sky1a) Polarizer. Each roll not exactly scientific, but shot in the morning, noon all the way to evening lights.
So why didn't you try a polarising filter?
How would that help with the colours exactly? Wouldn't that just cut through reflections and shift how the sky renders?
@@alexstarkey9087 Yes but also increase contrast and colour saturation through out the whole image. Combine that with pushing the film and you get more vibrant dynamic images.
Mainly because I wanted a warming effect and a polariser wouldn't provide that. Besides the contrast aspect, I was also curious to see any effect the underexposure and push would have on colour shifts. I would potentially use a poliriser on top of the others in the future... but I mainly find them effective with skies/clouds and reflective surfaces when the light is coming in at side angles.
@@pushingfilm You could try using a warm polarizer like the one from Tiffen. It combines an 812 (which is very good with ektachrome) with a polarizer.
Loving the look you got out of this, it looks pretty similar to what you can achieve with kodachrome! Did you compensate for the extra stop of exposure when developing or did you just go about it like normal?
It was push processed one stop :-)
I am really not a fan of pushing or pulling film, but I find your results quite interesting to the point where I am very tempted to try it myself
I don’t have the patience for a bunch of tinkering in post. I much prefer to get the look I want in camera (when possible).
Right on! A good general practice 🙂
This looks very good! I Might give it a try. Normal E100 is nice, but too neutral, this really looks kinda vintage!
Its worth a try! or even at 400, it should still hold up :-)
@@pushingfilm thanks! Sounds good! I was looking for this kind of look long time, admiring strong saturated reds of old Kodachrome photos, and these your photos look really quite similar.
Should i be telling the lab i pushed my film a stop when i put it into be processed? Or it doesn't matter. Where can i get that yellow filter pls?
Hey! Yeah, so ideally if you shoot slide film at a different speed than what's one the box, definitely tell the lab so they can process it accordingly. For the warming filters, I would try ebay or B&H. Sometimes you'll also find them at cameras stores or thrift stores.
@@pushingfilm Thanks. I just put through my first roll of 35mm Colorplus, and pushed it a stop. Scanned using Silverfast software on my Plustek. It has whats called Negafix. Like a built in NLP. I havent tried LR or NLP. Hoping my shotes were sharper then they came out. Can i put this down to my shooting, or something else? Would be great if i could show you some. Do you ever critique/feedback?
Quick question: what do you tell the lab when push/pulling film?
Just let them know how many stops you underexposed or overexposed. In this case, for example, I underexposed the film one stop (exposed at 200) so I asked the lab to Push +1 stop.
@@pushingfilm Thanks! : )
Kodachrome was the king! Long live the king
Great share. There really is nothing to beat a spread of slide film on a lightable. It just looks amazing doesn't it. I've not done much of the experiments you refer to because Ektachrome is just too expensive for me to ruin. So I've only shot it at EI100 or EI80. One area I really did notice that I should have used a filter was when shooting in my house under artificial light - i.e. normal room lights. I got a terrible orange cast. But then that was my fault. Nice work though sir. Good work.
Thanks very much! Agreed 😁 have you ever mounted and projected the new E100? Looks great
@@pushingfilm I sure have, and it sure does. In fact, I even have a medium format 120 projector...the Hasselblad PCP-80. Looks awesome. The only snag is that here in the UK there is nowhere that mounts MF slides as part of the development process. So I have to buy the Gepe glass mounts and then mount them myself, which is both expesnive (at around £20 for a box of 20 or so) and time consuming. But yes I also have a 35mm projector and I can get those mounted as part of the service. So for projection, I typically use 35mm. But it does look quite special in 120 on a light table or projected.
Good ideas.
Hya there and great video! I love the colors. Sorry if it's a dumb question but did you stack the two filters on top of each other? Or is it either one or the other but not both at the same time?
I will answer for him. Skylight 1a, reduces blue, +warmth even in shade. 85c filter is a koda,ekta and agfacolor, 1/3 f stop factor to prevent overexposure of blue layer. (never any stacking on correction lens or color filters for B&W.
Also, I watched a video of using expired 1979 extachrome and he added 1 stop per decade and it worked, box asa was horrible. The light blue filter 81c he mentioned was different than my 1957 Tiffen filter guide which shows 81c as permits clear flash and in 81d mentions will render warmer results than 81c. I think 81c is just for flash, but skylight 1a to 1.1 reduces blue. 81EF for M2flash with ektachrome. In short....85c is specific to overexposure to blue...dont use polerizers...it deepens saturation and makes blues bluer....
sweet
I use mainly slide film, Provia, Ektachrome and Velvia 50.
The new Ektachrome is nice, i use it a lot, but honestly there will never be anything with quite like look of Kodachrome.
Sad, but true
@@pushingfilm If you've seen it in person you know, i can tell a Kodachrome slide right away from any other.
When shooting with the Nikon FE do you use the build-in light meter or an external one?
Built-in meter! 🙂
thank you for trying and sharing this! I found this video at the perfect time as I'm new to film photography but haven't seemed to be able to find a film that's close enough to my personal style as I usually prefer a more underexposed, high contrast lit scene rather than overexposed. I just bought my first couple rolls of Ektachrome last week and am excited to try it out - will definitely look into trying the filters you suggested sometime! love the deep shadows and color and high contrast in your photos shown here. just to understand correctly as I haven't tried having my film push processed before, did you rate your roll at 200 ISO in your camera and then develop/ask the lab to push develop it one stop or at ISO 100 - or how does it work exactly?
No worries, glad you liked it! That is correct, I did as you said (asked lab to push it one stop) 😀
@@pushingfilm cool, thank you! :)
Hey thats pretty good
Haha, I was actually planning on shooting it with a skylight filter too!
Nice! Maybe with some of that VS even? 😁
How about push/pull processing the E100?
This roll was pushed, but I have not tried pull processing.
Did you shoot it at 200 or did you have it developed by one stop at the lab?
I shot it at 200, and had the lab push process it 1 stop
Was it compensated in the developing process?
Yes :-)
Nice :)
It‘s hard to replicate Kodachrome because there were so many iterations of it. E100 gets you close. I even prefer Provia. The filter isn‘t necessary. Kodachrome is so special because it has the sharpness of a black and white image and some intense color seperation going on. A clean Provia or E100 shot needs some work in post. It‘s experimental but I made some great progress by adding a black and white layer, setting it to overlay, reducing the transparency and playing with the color values. From that on I add a curve adjustment, set it to luminance and adjust the rgb curves separately. There is no way to scientifically get there. It requires a lot of practice and a lot of watching kodachrome slides.
Interesting tips regarding the curve layers! Will have to try it sometime
Were the photos in the video edited? They look great, but I'm just wondering if the effects of the filters and pushing the film will give me similar results
They're not edited, but there's always some inherent difference when digitising slides, even when trying to get them to look like the actual film on a lightbox. Many other factors will affect the way the color looks ranging from the light/scene, lab/chemicals, lens/filter variables, not to mention the digital side of things with images and video. Even though you still might get similar results, I'd probably expect some variation... which is part of the fun! Looking forward to seeing your results if you try it :) 81B would be worth trying too
How much more graininess do you get?
BTW you're right, it's more rewarding to experiment with the film than to spend any amount of time on a computer applying any one of a million different combinations of looks. But at the end of the day, I don't see any particular need to try and improve an emulsion. Just let the film do the talking.
Nice work!
Back in the 70s, when we wanted punchier colors, Kodachrome slides would be duped in our slide copiers with Kodachrome film (instead of the mellower slide dupe films). Guys like Pete Turner and Eric Meola were at the forefront of this with wonderfully colorful surreal images.
I really don’t think Classic Chrome is anything like Kodachrome; it has a Kodak vibe but definitely nothing like real Kodachrome. The guys who made those claims don’t really know Kodachrome...
Loved the sample photos and the way they look. So great!
This almost looks sort of like a hybrid between the way how Classic Negative on Fuji and Positive Film on Ricoh GR look! Only if slides weren't so expensive to process locally.
Thanks! Yeah it definitely has that contrast pop
wao. 📷💜📷💜📷💜📷💜📷💜📷💜💜📷💜📷💜📷
some shots do look very Kodachrome to me
Why no 1080p/4k upload? otherwise reaaally liked the video!
Hey, it was uploaded in 1080p, not sure why you're getting the option. Could be from RUclips's side
I bought an m4 after watching your review
That's awesome! Great choice 😁
I always pushed e100 to 400
Ah, craving Kodachrome. It's truly sad that we will probably never see the heights of Kodachrome color reproduction again. Thanks a bunch for trying this, I've been wanting to do this for a while. I actually like the results! It's not Kodachrome, but it does have that slide look, and it's the closest you can get. It's such a shame films like Sakurachrome by Konica and Rollei Digibase are discontinued, those were pretty close. What I've noticed when studying Kodachrome images (mostly by Gruyaert and Webb) is that the blacks aren't always very deep blacks, especially in Gruyaert's photos. There's little information in the shadows and it's high contrast but it seems more like a very dark gray or slightly desaturated black. I feel like the greens will be the hardest to reproduce with Kodachrome.
I own 3 cameras d3200 d3300 d3. 10 lenses. The d3 is remarkable
Nice! 😀
Try an 85 or 85b. I’ve got a bunch of Kodak 5071 film which I’ve shot with both of those filters. I think the 85 definitely gave it a Kodachrome look. Message me on Instagram if you want to see examples @fashionistalori.
Good tip! Will look out for more 85 filters
Du bist lustig. Dia-Film benutzt man richtig, indem man die neben der Belichtung, mit einem Colormeter, die Farbtemperatur misst und dann einen entsprechenden Konversionsfilter am Objektiv benutzt, wenn notwendig.
Nothing will look like Kodachrome 64 or 200.
When ektachrome came out, no one wanted it. Kodak couldn’t sell it for their lives. And I’m telling you now the only reason ektachrome sells now is because Kodachrome is gone. Otherwise it wouldnt
tell that to NASA
Now try a 1 stop pull.