Dropper is a better upgrade than any of those things. Then: Tubless Tires Suspension You should never even own anything with a front derailleur. And saddle almost doesn't even matter. I would upgrade almost every other thing before worrying about the saddle.
@@willishadamsA dropper is a better upgrade than tires and brakes? Depending on what kind of riding you do it could be better than a saddle but not if you're just getting into the sport. You're going to be spending a lot of time in it just to get your fitness up. And there's nothing wrong with a front derailer. The range you get from a 2x still exceeds a 1x so for someone who's just getting into the sport they may need that easy gear.
@@willishadamsthat’s just not true. Droppers are great but brakes (going from mechanical to hydraulic) is easily the best upgrade you can do on a bike.
@@xavierhulbert5849 wasn't even considering mechanical brakes. If you have mechanical brakes then absolutely do that first, but if you bought a bike with mechanical brakes you probably have other problems I'm also not considering. I've never bought a bike with anything but hydraulic brakes. Even my first cheap rockhopper had hydraulics.
@@nyreppin1 yes unless you're starting with mechanical brakes, but every bike I've ever owned came with hydraulics. Most tires are decent in most terrain, I feel like people focus way too much on tires. Any decent bike is going to come with decent tires already on it. Many of them come with a front derailleur unfortunately, so rip it off and throw on a new chainring with less teeth and you'll be much better off with just that. A 2x is much more likely to confuse a new rider by being in the wrong gear in an important moment, than the benifit of having an easier gear available while climbing. Being able to quickly get the seat out of the way on decents and right back up on climbs is way more important in my opinion. I've seen way too many new riders get bucked by their seat being high on a dh section.
Tubeless and dropper are obvious. You can't currently get a good mtb without 1x. Would love it they still made decent ones for those of us who bikepack. 2x is currently better than it's ever been and you can use it with a clutch. 38/22 with an 11-36 cassette is the dream for my hardtail bikepacker. Way more top end for those road sections.
This is my problem with 1x. I ride trails and roads, I use my tough gears to fly down the road, I use my easy gears to climb and do technical stuff. I'd prefer the idea of 1x, but I have what I have and it works well.
My brother has a 2017 Canyon Neuron with 2x9 system and it's so nice for climbing it's not even funny, while I ride on a 1x10 and it sucks hella ass compared to his. I get the argument of 1x is weight savings and simplicity but 2x isn't really that much heavier and provides more gear ratios it's a no-brainer to use.
@@Megabear90 a 38/22 11-36 has more range than a 32t 10-51. The only thing 12 speed gives you is a 10t cog. That's great but it doesn't automatically give it better range than a 2x system.
1 get rid of plastic pedals and get ones with accual studs. 2 get rid of the coils suntour form that doesn't actually work and get an air fork. 3 have fun
I’m honestly so tired of tubeless they always leak air, and if they pop what do you do, put a tube in it, which is basically impossible on the trail anyway
@@thrillseeker8467 if you're leaking air like that the rims must not be taped well, or you're not using enough sealant. Any flat I've ever had that the sealant didn't fill I just pushed a plug in, filled the tire, and enjoyed the rest of the ride.
@@thrillseeker8467 idk maybe it's your rims then? I've even gotten rims that weren't "tubless ready" to bead and hold air. Where is the air leaking from?
In my opinion a good Tubeless set up for DH and enduro purposes is running Cush cores and latex , is a bit expensive but a must for such disciplines , speed and flow will improve a lot . But most important is that you’ll save your self from trashing them after few rides cuz you got rim strike and broke the rims .
1x never made sense to me. You are just slower on the flats, and just as slow on the uphills. For me 1. Good tyres > mid tyres tubeless 2. Good brake pads (if you already have good brakes) 3. A system that is easy to fix on the go if necessary
I can understand getting the one-by system because i myself, struggle with memorising what gear im in on the rear side to be in sync with the front side. Getting that wrong will ruin your gear system and ruin the chain. Dropper post aint really necessary if you dont go off-roading but its nice to have that. Going tubeless is good and would recommend👍
Totally agree with this. I still carry an inner tube but I’ve probably had 10 hawthorns stuck in my tyres over a two year period that have all self sealed.
Because its never once impeded my rides or caused the chain to come off, everytime theres a big hill i ALWAYS need to drop my front derailleur gears to get up it as my rear derailleur lacks the gearing to do so(7 speed), and when i go down a hill i lack the gearing to go any faster when travelling past 25mph, im short on gears for torque and for topspeed, a one by would amplify this problem 10x @theworst_ttv-btw3170
@@sempi_loud2659 no it wouldn't. A modern 1x12 has more range than your 2x7. I bet youd be better off if you threw a 28t chainring on and ditched the front derailleur.
@sempi_loud2659 I've never bought a brand new bike. My first bike was a scott downhill bike. I bought a used sram 1x12 for $80 and threw it on and put a thousand miles on it before I got my next bike. Just yesterday I bought a rocky mountain instinct with a 1x9 for $300. I've put a lot more money into my ebike and enduro bike but i didn't think money was the issue we were talking about here.
Didn't continental release tpu tubes? If I didn't live in a shit 3rd world country I would have bought that already, I hear these are lighter than tubeless plus sealant
@@samuelfillan6257 You ride your 27.5 You ride your 29er. But don't take any real risk on it or do anything extreme or keep spending thousands of dollars to keep it updated with the best parts It keep failing and worrying out faster over time
@talldude8155 you misunderstood friends. Topping out is when you can't go faster because you've reached the max gear ratio pedling becomes light and you are unable to put more power down. Uphill the lower gear ratio is absolutely fine, it's when you want to max speed down a tame hill it tops out
@talldude8155 ah I see, sorry. But that defeats the purpose for me of having a X1 why not have a X2 or X3 and have easier climbing and faster downhill. Its only my thoughts and opinions but I'm not 100% on board the X1 train is all I'm saying. Each to their own though and there are many styles of riding X1 may suit better
Tubeless and 1xs arent necessary in any case its a downgrade 1xs are only for trails but youll need the second chainring afterwards Instead of spending a few hundred dollars for those get these New brakes New rotors and pads Better tires New pedals Get an airfork if you dont already And always have fun
I bought a bike that has all that stuff on it and I'm telling you the dropper post is a huge plus. You just press the button and sit on it to go down and then stand up and press it and it'll pop up so if you're cruising on a road or an asphalt path it's comfortable but when you hit the trail you just pop it down real quick and keep on boogying
These are just suggestions...it all depends on what type of riding your doing...so dont listen to this guy but rather listen to your mechanic who knows the area and what type of riding you will be doing
Alright, lets go to the point that you got a Tubeless tire system, a dropper post and a 1by, I really think the best first upgrades are the important ones. Brakes, Sealed bearings and what not.
bearings? which ones? I never had one fail tbh. I strongly agree on the brakes though- allthough it often makes more sens to just buy the bike that has the better brakes to begin with.
@@olik136 Most of the bikes sold here in my country use Ball Bearings so thats why i suggested to upgrade sealed bearings for Wheelset, Bottom Bracket and Headset.
All i need is to learn how to take care of my bike. I have no idea how to oil the chain, bleed the brakes or honestly anything. My chain is squeaky and all i do is pressure wash it once a week.
my 3 speed gearset at the front is far better than 1 speed, im on a trek marlin 4 passing carbonfibre roadbikes and still have 3 gears left to click into😁 i do want a dropperpost though as my saddle height is too high for downhill
I'm hoping to do an M8000 XT build. I was planning on doing a 2X; i went and ordered the L XT shifter before getting the 2X crank and finding the front derailer🤨😱 HaHa. Looks like i will now be planning on doing an M8000 1X XT build🤙🤙.
From a tubed rider, no they're not a gimmick. Its for if your application calls for it. Terrain, riding style and required tire pressures are defining factors for weather you should ideally run tubeless or tubed.
Dear cyclists, if you buy a bike, please use it on tracks, private roads etc, but please don't use it for commuting. Bless all cyclists who do this for fun. 👍
Currently contemplating a roscoe 9 or specialized rockhopper comp . Any suggestions ? Is a dropper post absolutely necessary for amateur mtb trails etc?
Cycles REALLY don't need to be tubeless, it is a very easy to fix a punture. These people are going crazy with cycles, 10000 dollar cycles, this and that. F**k! People forget why they were cycling.
I would go
1) tires(tubeless or not)
2) brakes
3) saddle
Dropper is a better upgrade than any of those things.
Then:
Tubless
Tires
Suspension
You should never even own anything with a front derailleur. And saddle almost doesn't even matter. I would upgrade almost every other thing before worrying about the saddle.
@@willishadamsA dropper is a better upgrade than tires and brakes? Depending on what kind of riding you do it could be better than a saddle but not if you're just getting into the sport. You're going to be spending a lot of time in it just to get your fitness up.
And there's nothing wrong with a front derailer. The range you get from a 2x still exceeds a 1x so for someone who's just getting into the sport they may need that easy gear.
@@willishadamsthat’s just not true. Droppers are great but brakes (going from mechanical to hydraulic) is easily the best upgrade you can do on a bike.
@@xavierhulbert5849 wasn't even considering mechanical brakes. If you have mechanical brakes then absolutely do that first, but if you bought a bike with mechanical brakes you probably have other problems I'm also not considering. I've never bought a bike with anything but hydraulic brakes. Even my first cheap rockhopper had hydraulics.
@@nyreppin1 yes unless you're starting with mechanical brakes, but every bike I've ever owned came with hydraulics. Most tires are decent in most terrain, I feel like people focus way too much on tires. Any decent bike is going to come with decent tires already on it. Many of them come with a front derailleur unfortunately, so rip it off and throw on a new chainring with less teeth and you'll be much better off with just that. A 2x is much more likely to confuse a new rider by being in the wrong gear in an important moment, than the benifit of having an easier gear available while climbing. Being able to quickly get the seat out of the way on decents and right back up on climbs is way more important in my opinion. I've seen way too many new riders get bucked by their seat being high on a dh section.
Good thing there are subtitles because i would have been searching for a wombat system for days!!!!!
Best comment 🤣🤣
Yorkshire lad ❤
haha!
Tubeless and dropper are obvious. You can't currently get a good mtb without 1x.
Would love it they still made decent ones for those of us who bikepack. 2x is currently better than it's ever been and you can use it with a clutch. 38/22 with an 11-36 cassette is the dream for my hardtail bikepacker. Way more top end for those road sections.
This is my problem with 1x. I ride trails and roads, I use my tough gears to fly down the road, I use my easy gears to climb and do technical stuff.
I'd prefer the idea of 1x, but I have what I have and it works well.
My brother has a 2017 Canyon Neuron with 2x9 system and it's so nice for climbing it's not even funny, while I ride on a 1x10 and it sucks hella ass compared to his. I get the argument of 1x is weight savings and simplicity but 2x isn't really that much heavier and provides more gear ratios it's a no-brainer to use.
Get a 12 speed if you need range, it will be way more than you need.
@@Megabear90the 12 is also with a 30 teeth, to Slow on top end Speed I feel Like
@@Megabear90 a 38/22 11-36 has more range than a 32t 10-51.
The only thing 12 speed gives you is a 10t cog. That's great but it doesn't automatically give it better range than a 2x system.
Never ditch the 3x , tubeless if racing , otherwise still run tubes , tubeless still puncture and a messy pain in the arse when they do
If you broke yeah, but if you have the cash do it 💯, as of messy, just don't be stupid, it's pretty easy
1 get rid of plastic pedals and get ones with accual studs. 2 get rid of the coils suntour form that doesn't actually work and get an air fork. 3 have fun
Actual studs. You mean shin shredders?😂
For my needs: full length mudguards front and rear.
Pedals, tyres, grips. By far the best 3 things that will make such a difference
Just an FYI, the vast majority of tubeless riders have to bring a tube with them in case they get a hole too big for the sealant to close up.
What do tubed riders bring? A repair kit?
@@alexwhiteside …is this a joke?
@@DanielJamesEgan nope, just genuinely interested to see the difference. Would a tubed rider bring a tube also or repair patches?
@@alexwhiteside you answered your own question.
@@DanielJamesEgan so then what’s the point of mentioning that tubeless riders needing to bring a tube?
Front derailleurs forever!!!
I don’t even use half of the gears on my one by 12 why would I possibly want 21 gears
Good joke 😂
I’m honestly so tired of tubeless they always leak air, and if they pop what do you do, put a tube in it, which is basically impossible on the trail anyway
@@thrillseeker8467 if you're leaking air like that the rims must not be taped well, or you're not using enough sealant. Any flat I've ever had that the sealant didn't fill I just pushed a plug in, filled the tire, and enjoyed the rest of the ride.
@willishadams yeah, but tubes are 10 times cheaper to replace
@@willishadams idk man I’ve taped em myself drowned them in sealant even had a shop do it last time to no avail
I’m honestly so tired of tubes they always puncture flats.
@@thrillseeker8467 idk maybe it's your rims then? I've even gotten rims that weren't "tubless ready" to bead and hold air. Where is the air leaking from?
These guys are top notch. Always helpful when I go in
I already went tubeless, but that demonstration makes me want to go tubeless all over again!
In my opinion a good Tubeless set up for DH and enduro purposes is running Cush cores and latex , is a bit expensive but a must for such disciplines , speed and flow will improve a lot . But most important is that you’ll save your self from trashing them after few rides cuz you got rim strike and broke the rims .
Front derailleurs are great for climbs and better for the chainline so you get more life
Not a bad point 👌
yeah, but more maintenance, more parts to break, you look like a total dumbass, unbelievably heavy, and on the downhill you dont need more gears.
Just get stronger, and the second point is fax
1x never made sense to me. You are just slower on the flats, and just as slow on the uphills.
For me
1. Good tyres > mid tyres tubeless
2. Good brake pads (if you already have good brakes)
3. A system that is easy to fix on the go if necessary
“Dropper post” goes hard fr🔥🔥🔥
I can understand getting the one-by system because i myself, struggle with memorising what gear im in on the rear side to be in sync with the front side. Getting that wrong will ruin your gear system and ruin the chain. Dropper post aint really necessary if you dont go off-roading but its nice to have that. Going tubeless is good and would recommend👍
Did them all for my old 26er. Added a new cockpit as well. Totally different bike. Dropper post is a game changer.
Ditched my front mech in 1998, 7speed is plenty when you get used to it
love this video, thanks
Clipless also good for bought riding and long rides
I like inner tube guaranteed I can change out my tube and make it home. If you split you tire your walking going tubless..
Tubes are easier to maintain and less messy. And when you go tubeless you still carry a tube for emergencies. Save money keep tubes
Totally agree with this. I still carry an inner tube but I’ve probably had 10 hawthorns stuck in my tyres over a two year period that have all self sealed.
I agree with all three.
But there is more;
Better brakes, bigger rotors, better pads, better hubs, better tires, better saddle etc.
My top would be
1) good tires
2) good shifting
3) good suspension
"Dropper Post 😏"
DULY NOTED
My bike came factory like this…
I wish the X1 eagle was triple chainring as I hate 1x, also tried tubeless and never wasting money on it, wish didn't have to go hookless too
Nah tubless was one of the best things i did for my bike. Being on a mountain and being able to fill a hole hit it with co2 and keep it moving.
front derailleur for life!
But why tho😂
Because its never once impeded my rides or caused the chain to come off, everytime theres a big hill i ALWAYS need to drop my front derailleur gears to get up it as my rear derailleur lacks the gearing to do so(7 speed), and when i go down a hill i lack the gearing to go any faster when travelling past 25mph, im short on gears for torque and for topspeed, a one by would amplify this problem 10x @theworst_ttv-btw3170
@@sempi_loud2659 no it wouldn't. A modern 1x12 has more range than your 2x7. I bet youd be better off if you threw a 28t chainring on and ditched the front derailleur.
@@willishadams not everyone can afford a bike with 12 gears lol
@sempi_loud2659 I've never bought a brand new bike. My first bike was a scott downhill bike. I bought a used sram 1x12 for $80 and threw it on and put a thousand miles on it before I got my next bike. Just yesterday I bought a rocky mountain instinct with a 1x9 for $300. I've put a lot more money into my ebike and enduro bike but i didn't think money was the issue we were talking about here.
idk why i bought an mtb, because i just ride on the road anyway.
Good tyres
Good breaks
Good pedals
Dropped post with a good saddle
Everything else might not need upgrading 😊
To hell with tubeless, I'm sticking to tubes.
Didn't continental release tpu tubes? If I didn't live in a shit 3rd world country I would have bought that already, I hear these are lighter than tubeless plus sealant
Still on 26er with tubes and 3x 😂. Don't waste your money.
Me too man 26"never die ..
and i could gap you both up and down hills
Ahh yes, everyone take advice from the guy who rides wheels that are only specced on kids bike nowadays 🤣
@@samuelfillan6257 You ride your 27.5 You ride your 29er. But don't take any real risk on it or do anything extreme or keep spending thousands of dollars to keep it updated with the best parts It keep failing and worrying out faster over time
@@michaelwier6315 pipe down you retro-bell. I shred harder than you can dream of with your little 3x and your obsolete wheels 🤣🤣🤣🖕
1. get interior tube
2. put tape on the interior tube
3. put sealant on tube
what?
I have a 12x1 and an older 9x3 and i still like the the 3x for speed, top out to quickly on a 1x imo
Get a bigger chainring, and get stronger if you struggle on the hills
@talldude8155 you misunderstood friends. Topping out is when you can't go faster because you've reached the max gear ratio pedling becomes light and you are unable to put more power down. Uphill the lower gear ratio is absolutely fine, it's when you want to max speed down a tame hill it tops out
@@BobbyB24601 no I'm saying get a bigger chainring on your 1x, which then makes it harder to climb but now you go faster on the downhills
@talldude8155 ah I see, sorry. But that defeats the purpose for me of having a X1 why not have a X2 or X3 and have easier climbing and faster downhill. Its only my thoughts and opinions but I'm not 100% on board the X1 train is all I'm saying. Each to their own though and there are many styles of riding X1 may suit better
This is exactly why I went for a older model for my new bike they were all one by and i really enjoy that dump gear
That shit sealed up real quick
Studded pedals if you don’t already
Can completely turn what this lad says into mrs wisdom lol 🎉
My favorite part of one of my bikes is the suspension lockout.
Definitely all three needed on my bike. It's not crazy old but needs those upgrades to make it more usable.
best upgrades for your mountain bike.
make it dirty and clean (that proves its used)
Tubeless - in race conditions
Fron one - good , mtb dont go fast.
Dropper - 50/50
Tubeless and 1xs arent necessary in any case its a downgrade 1xs are only for trails but youll need the second chainring afterwards
Instead of spending a few hundred dollars for those get these
New brakes
New rotors and pads
Better tires
New pedals
Get an airfork if you dont already
And always have fun
I still like 3 in the front. There faster to me
Tubeless 🏳️🌈
1 x 💪🏼
Dropper post 🏳️🌈
Just say you broke my guy🤣🤣
I bought a bike that has all that stuff on it and I'm telling you the dropper post is a huge plus. You just press the button and sit on it to go down and then stand up and press it and it'll pop up so if you're cruising on a road or an asphalt path it's comfortable but when you hit the trail you just pop it down real quick and keep on boogying
2 out of 3 of those come standard on any decent MTB these days. Anything over 2k and you have a dropper and usually 1 by Deore
Still not totally convinced on tubeless 😅
lighter, no pinch flats, self sealing, lasts for years
It's literally a game changer, trust me
Is it expensive @@jdauph039
@jdauph039 If your tubeless tires last for years, then you are not riding enough.
Got all of em.
Best upgrade? A motor kit 😂
Straight up
1x with a clutch is very important
These are just suggestions...it all depends on what type of riding your doing...so dont listen to this guy but rather listen to your mechanic who knows the area and what type of riding you will be doing
Unless that mech just wants u to buy parts to clear his inventory and/or fill his pockets... never trust any mech 100%
@@evanm.2300 To be fair he didn't say trust your mech, he said listen to them.
You'd still be the arbiter over what you chose.
this dood raves on the weekends..trancing out
I did all 3 2 years ago. He's right
Alright, lets go to the point that you got a Tubeless tire system, a dropper post and a 1by, I really think the best first upgrades are the important ones.
Brakes, Sealed bearings and what not.
bearings? which ones? I never had one fail tbh. I strongly agree on the brakes though- allthough it often makes more sens to just buy the bike that has the better brakes to begin with.
@@olik136 Most of the bikes sold here in my country use Ball Bearings so thats why i suggested to upgrade sealed bearings for Wheelset, Bottom Bracket and Headset.
No
These are the least necessary upgrades. But definitely the most expensive
Tubes all day
I prefer tubes, quite honestly. I ran tubeless for roughly 2 years and just didn’t care for it.
All i need is to learn how to take care of my bike. I have no idea how to oil the chain, bleed the brakes or honestly anything. My chain is squeaky and all i do is pressure wash it once a week.
haha good video man
Did he just casually shiv a customers tire for this video😂
Mmmmmmmaybe 🙄😅
Doesnt matter, doesn't effect the tyre at all
Bikes should be punished hard in reviews that need immediate upgrades and waste parts. Slightly less so consumable items, but still.
If you bought a bike with a 2x you should buy a different bike
Swap it for a motorbike
That's a downgrade
You seem like quite a serious person
So I upgraded my bike like you said, now my front tyre is flat.
"Best upgrades you make for ur mountain bike "🇬🇧
"Go tubeless" 🇺🇲
"Ditch the front derailleur, get a one by system"🇦🇺
"Dropper post "🇷🇺
I noticed that too, his accent was all over the place.
Imo its stronger wheels bigger better fork handlebars and brakes slowly but surely
Best upgrades you can make for you mtb. 500hp electric motor from koenigsegg
I'll be fine staying with my
💰145.00🍁 410mm Thomsom Elite post🤘🤘
I went back from tubeless to tubes, much more maintenance.
Whats the score with going tubeless? Lighter?
I love how you can hear some inner Russian coming out in the end
my 3 speed gearset at the front is far better than 1 speed, im on a trek marlin 4 passing carbonfibre roadbikes and still have 3 gears left to click into😁 i do want a dropperpost though as my saddle height is too high for downhill
Front derailleur is the worst thing 😂
No tubeles, telescopic seatpost removed from my bike, having 2x11 system.
Slap motor on it , that's the best upgrade
Depends which mtb you ride
My tubes auto seal too 😂
I just ditched all derailleurs
4. pink peddals
I'm hoping to do an M8000 XT build. I was planning on doing a 2X; i went and ordered the L XT shifter before getting the 2X crank and finding the front derailer🤨😱 HaHa. Looks like i will now be planning on doing an M8000 1X XT build🤙🤙.
Don’t go tubeless got a flat on a trail once and pumped it back up and then the hole burst again.
That’s an e-bike at that point
It'll be an E bike when it's got a battery and a motor
My Roscoe 7 has me spoiled. I got all that and hydraulic disc brakes
Tubeless are a gimmick on mountain bikes. Invented for cars to save money and carrying a spare wheel.
From a tubed rider, no they're not a gimmick. Its for if your application calls for it. Terrain, riding style and required tire pressures are defining factors for weather you should ideally run tubeless or tubed.
Not a gimmick. I simply don’t get punctures anymore. I used to get loads.
Tubeless is better than tubes in every single way except settup
Or get gell lock tubes or fill your tube with gell lock and they work great the other up grades are really good
Dear cyclists, if you buy a bike, please use it on tracks, private roads etc, but please don't use it for commuting. Bless all cyclists who do this for fun. 👍
Why not use a bike for commuting?
Pedals?
Tubeless seems like way too much work and messy. I like being able to jump gears with a front derailleur but the dropper post is good though.
" a dRopPeR pOSt"
Nah mate 2x on top, sad they don't make decent 2x mtb anymore
Best upgrades 2012 edition
Currently contemplating a roscoe 9 or specialized rockhopper comp . Any suggestions ? Is a dropper post absolutely necessary for amateur mtb trails etc?
Absolutely necessary- no. But it’s an incredible quality of life feature that you’ll be thankful for
I would never go tubeless.
Best upgrade for your mountain bike….get rid of the maxxis tires
Cycles REALLY don't need to be tubeless, it is a very easy to fix a punture. These people are going crazy with cycles, 10000 dollar cycles, this and that. F**k! People forget why they were cycling.
I would go crits build😊