@@gamingSlasher Conventional current theory (Benjamin Franklin times) current goes from positive to negative. In modern times, electrons got changed to a negative charged particle so in "electron flow" theory the current goes from negative to positive.
Great video, thanks for running us through your setup. One question about the diode on the 12v side of the contactor; should it not be in-line with either + or -, in stead of bridging the poles? This is how Kelly tells you to wire it, but it seems to me that current could still flow the wrong way? Having said that, I'm not the best in electronics. I've just purchased a Kelly KLS96601-8080NPS with a ME1616 motor, so your video is spot on for me. But there might be a difference in the configuration of the sine/cosine sensor. Thanks again for providing a working demonstration with clear explanations!
Thank you for putting your experience with this combo on RUclips. A few years ago I bought the ME1507 with the Sevcon Gen4 Size 6 direct from Motenergy as a kit and the Sevcon is a total PITA to program so I've been looking for alternatives.
Glad it's helpful! I was looking at the Sevcon controllers as well but was deterred given the first thing anyone mentions is how much of a pain they are to program. Maybe I'm being naive but I just don't understand why programming a piece of hardware has to be so difficult
I can do some basic program settings for your Sevcon controller. I would charge money for the job though. I do not recommend a Sevcon unless you need extremely fine tuned safety features for a forklift or something.
Awesome video ! But I dont understand the precharge resistor ? How is it wired, why is it necessary ? Thank you so much ! 😀 I think its to prevent spark in the contactor but how do you know when the internal circuit of the controller is completely precharged and so you can activate the contactor ? But if you accelerate while the contactor is off, will it burn the resistor ?
That's correct. it is to prevent a rush of current from controller capacitors to suddenly discharge when the contactor is closing and cause damage. If the precharge resistor is hard-wired across the contactor (like in this video), voltage will always be equalized so there is no need to wait for caps to charge. if you put the resistor on a switch also, you will need to wait 5-10 seconds. if you accelerate with the contactor off (which I forget and do all the time) the resistor will not burn, instead, the motor will simply not turn since the current will be limited to some very low amount
@@leonamor8662 for sure! if you don't wait the 5-10 sec you risk damaging the contactor as if there was no precharge resistor at all. but it has nothing to do with whether you accelerate or not. best setup IMO is to hard-wire the pre-charge resistor across the contactor
Great video! It will be helpful for many so keep it up. The 1023*(avg)/255 is a scale shift. It is spreading a number that was on a 255 scale to a 1023 scale. I am guessing this is so it is a more bit friendly number to stuff in the smallest amount of memory in the micro-controller brain of the Kelley controller. I suggest you keep that yellow boot on while spinning the motor. It will keep that key from flying out while spinning and possibly poking out an 👀
Great Video! very useful. Question, any issues with the 12v not being isolated from battery? The manual specifies an isolated soource for the controller.
thank you! the 12V source uses a common ground with the high voltage system but it is isolated coming from the dc-dc converter. from the controller's perspective it sees 12V for the power input
@@GaiusGarage Having a common ground is not isolated. Might be ok- sounds like it might - I tested my setup with a non isolated one and worked fine - I'm just not sure what the risks are with this controller. You can buy isolated DC-DC converters but they are a bit pricier (>$100) than non-isolated ones- I might just buy one to be safe. Again, thanks for the tips.
Thank you really great to have some guidance on this. Wondering how things are working out because Kelly states you should be using an isolated power supply?
I am using an isolated power supply here coming from the 12V dc converter. it shares a ground with the main battery but this is irrelevant from the perspective of the controller - 0V is just a reference frame for whatever voltage your using
@@GaiusGarage ok sweet good to know. My knowledge of electronics isnt enough, and i couldnt find anything saying that converter was isolated. was going to use the same converter for my project and already ordered the $70 400w one from Kelly. Should be better for me anyway, because my 12v system will draw 12+ amps with everything i have running at once. and that converter gets real hot doing 92v to 12v 10 amps when i tested it out. Thanks for the reply man, your videos have been a great help.
@@poppybond awesome! glad it's been helpful. Just out of curiosity, what do you have running that youre drawing 12A from your converter? Do you have a coolant pump or alot of lights? I actually got a 20A converter originally to be on the safe sure but found that I only draw around 7A max for lights & contactor.
@@GaiusGarage The contactor should draw a lot of current to close the connection, but then the power draw should drop way down in order to stay closed (and keep the high voltage flowing to your motor/controller).
Your so amazing ! Your video was so helpful. I am making a ev car with kls-8080i but i have trouble with error code ........ Can you give me some advice about current meter error??????
Thank you! I'm not sure about error code. best thing would be to get the code and reach out to Kelly controller support. they are pretty good about troubleshooting
nice! I'm working up to something like that. Was going to pick up a Jeep Wrangler TJ for a conversion the other day but trying to finishing one project before taking on more. I didn't program the controller at all but did measure the shaft RPM - got about 6300rpm unloaded at full throttle
So the controller must be advancing the timing of the commutator switching then to get that speed? One issue I am struggling with is this motor claims 0.026 V/RPM constant, so at 96 volts it should only get about 3700 rpm, which would be too slow… cool to hear it spins faster though. Still trying to wrap my head around various motor controllers out there. Appreciate the help!
@@ride88 I tested this same combo (ME1507 /KLS96601-8080IPS). On the bench with a 60V battery, I was only able to achieve 3000 RPM and couldn't find any setting to increase this. Kelly seemed to confirm this limitation, so we switched to a Sevcon GEN4 controller. I'd definitely be interested to know if anyone's overcome it.
I’m no expert but since I first found your video I think the setting in the controller would be called “field weakening” up to a max RPM of 6000 which I dug up is a safety thing so the magnets inside the rotor don’t fling apart. Going higher than the base speed with field weakening you get diminishing returns in terms of HP and torque but you should at least be able to spin faster (for me that’s key so I’m not constantly switching 3rd/4th). I’d be curious your results with the sevcon!
@@netmaster10000 In my experience the ME1507 needs at least 90V to be of any use. I first tried a 25S pack in my quad build and when the pack was lower than 90V it wouldn't produce enough power to push it on a flat hill. I was very surprised. I am an Electrical Engineer and I didn't foresee this issue. Quite embarrassing really but as I get older I realise subject matter experience is just as important as knowledge. I switched the pack to a 28S pack and it works awesome! I have since then built a second quad and SXS using Zero's version of the ME1507. They are blasts to drive! Sevcon controllers are a big learning curve but the quality of the electronics are far superior.
the power wire turn the controller on and off so you need that to use this controller. on this particular model, the power wire takes 12V so you so need some sort of 12V battery or step-down converter. The contactor is technically optional, maybe on simple hobby vehicles like a go-kart you can skip the contactor, but I would not build any serious commuter vehicle without one.
@@GaiusGarage ok. What if my scheme has no second power supply, but contactor mounting directly, is it possible to find contactor 96V 400A? My main battery is 96V. Or I can use lower voltage contactor 72V for example?
Great Video, thank you! I have a Kelly Controller on a rare solar electric boat, it's supposed to be configured via bluetooth, do you know how to do that?
thats a bldc motor correct? the controller specs i looked up says that is for a ac motor? im curious cause i am installing a me1616 in my boat and want a easier to program controller its the same internal as a me1507 is why im asking
Great video but I have a safety question and other question. How/where would you install a kickstand switch that would prevent the throttle from working? Can a MotoGadget m-unit be helpful with installation for it's alarm and other awesome features? I'm doing research for a motorcycle install with a hub motor.
I'm not so sure about the motogadget - hadn't heard of them until you mentioned. but for the kickstand, typically that would be wired into the brake switch or dedicated pin on the controller side. that way if the kickstand is down, it would be like the brake is activated and the controller will not send power to the motor. I have another video where I set up all the accessory wiring and although I don't include the kickstand as a safety switch, I do have both hand and foot brakes wired to the controller
Ok did you power the controller and accessories from 12v dcdc or directly from battery , beqouse we use only battery for power source and. Maybe electricity is to low to run the encoder ?
@@ivanivanov-o5s the 12V source is used to power the controller electronics but the battery voltage is used to power the controller itself. there a line for 12V in on the wire harness, and the battery power connects to the main +/- terminals
hello, please tell me how to reverse the engine, the reverse does not work for me. I send 12 volts from terminal 11 to terminal 14, the reverse signal does not occur or to terminal 12. all locks are disabled. The motor only moves in one direction. Only through the computer can I turn on the reverse
Hey, i have been having problems with my kelly KAC14401. The app programmer can´t find the controller and the CAN bus isnt working either. Do you have any suggestions? Already openned the controller and couldnt find anything visible wrong.
Thank you! No, actually - I switched gears and throwing together an electric dirtbike with a QS138 motor - have those videos on my channel. going to continue the build for this set up soon.
Hi man, can you tell me about the 3 speed function!!! Because I have connected the FWD and ECO and 12v ,, but still it runs on 2 speed instead of 3 !! And also the foot_sw is for parking function right ?
I dont think the Kelly controller has a 3 speed function - just two speeds. Low is on pin 22 and High on pin 12. not sure about the foot_sw switch honestly - I havent done too much work on this project so far. but you can download the manual here: kellycontroller.com/wp-content/uploads/kls-8080i-ips/KellyKLS-8080I-IPSUserManualV1.11.pdf
Alright, my configuration is not that complicated as yours (without contractor or else) but basically it is the same. Just wondering why you only use 12V on Pin7 to start the controller. As for as I understand, all power that comes from the battery goes over the key ignition to the controller and then to Pin7 to turn it on (like a circuit). In my case, after the controller is on, the DCDC which is conntected to the controller is last. Is PIn7 only limited to 12Volts? btw, is there actually a cover for the poles for these kelly controllers? They should never be left open. Guess it's even more challenging with two or four motors and parallel all signals.
yes, this controller requires an isolated voltage for the power supply (pin7) between 8V - 30V. I'm using 12V since I have it already from the DC-DC converter
@@GaiusGarage okay, but is it only this controller which requires an isolated 8 to 30Volts at PIN7 or all others as well? Mine is KLS-7245N and I use 72(84V) on battery power so I would use it completely over the key ignition to the controller and Pin7. How do you cover your poles to avoid any short circuit?
@@Harry-lmao Im not sure about other controller but it could be possible that your does not require it. There's a section on the kelly controller website where you can download the manual, it will tell you whether yours requires an isolated circuit for the power. other non-kelly controller Ive use can take battery voltage for the power switch. you can find terminal covers on amazon to cover the +/- leads, if thats what youre referring to
@@GaiusGarage Alright, I need to check the manual again or get support from Kelly just to avoid any damage to the controller. Yes, terminal covers is what I'm referring to BUT there is a CNL fuse between B+ and NC which also need to be covered up, right? Kelly should provide this equipment as well. thanks
there's a link in the description to the part of this video where I show how the control circuit of the contactor is connected. the main terminals simply interrupt the positive discharge line
@@GaiusGarage Great. my bad. I missed that part. Just to confirm, top blade connecting to red wire head should be connected to negative of battery, right? I took a screen shot here: drive.google.com/file/d/1AvE0rrXPMWAxmzK6dJCXPBpEuzpMad5_/view?usp=sharing
@@julianvideoproduction4797 the red wire connects to the positive side. red is typically used for the positive line and black for negative. But depending on your contactor, it might not be to the positive terminal of the battery. Battery is 100V but this particular contactor uses 12V for the control circuit, so I have the red wire connected to the positive side of the 12V dc-dc converter. But they make contractors that take high-voltage for the control circuit also
@@GaiusGarage do you have an actual wiring diagram to show how all the wires are connected? I am still learning and definitely don't want to mess up and burn my motor 😀
Every video i look they put the positive on the other side of the fuse. I think you're not supposed to put it wherr there is a red line on the nut according to kelly.
yes, I see.. I think you might be right about that. ok for a bench test but will definitely have to double check when I finally use this thing in a bike
Hi, me again... x) You connected all the grounds together, but isnt it dangerous ? Most people say that we have to separate high voltage from the 12v 🤔
there is a possibility that a short in the high voltage system can damage the low voltage components but all of them are fused at multiple levels in the actual bike. other than that there is no issue using a common ground. ground is just a reference point for the voltage so whether its 12V or 1000V, they are both in reference to some other voltage, which would be called "ground". by connecting the grounds together, you just make the voltages in reference to the same exact value
Super nice explanation. I was very confused about the issue with Sine / cosine, hall sensors etc. Good to know it can handle both.
This guy knows that current runs from negative to pos. I like you already.
Just to be a nerd, the electrons moves from negative to positive. By definition current was said to go from positive to negative.
@@gamingSlasher Conventional current theory (Benjamin Franklin times) current goes from positive to negative. In modern times, electrons got changed to a negative charged particle so in "electron flow" theory the current goes from negative to positive.
True physicists know that signs are arbitrary and you may use whichever pleases you
I have never seen such a helpful in detail tutorial in youtube...thanks G, mine worked right away!
Thank you. Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thanks for running us through your setup. One question about the diode on the 12v side of the contactor; should it not be in-line with either + or -, in stead of bridging the poles? This is how Kelly tells you to wire it, but it seems to me that current could still flow the wrong way? Having said that, I'm not the best in electronics. I've just purchased a Kelly KLS96601-8080NPS with a ME1616 motor, so your video is spot on for me. But there might be a difference in the configuration of the sine/cosine sensor. Thanks again for providing a working demonstration with clear explanations!
LOVE the clarity.
Thank you!
Excellent video. Love the throttle you have. Might you know the brand?
Thanks! Its this throttle on Amazon www.amazon.com/VGEBY-Electric-Waterproof-Handlebar-Throttle/dp/B07HF8SNRX/ref=sr_1_20
Best Video about Kelly Controller basic operations.. SUBSCRIBED..!
Much appreciated!
Thank you for putting your experience with this combo on RUclips. A few years ago I bought the ME1507 with the Sevcon Gen4 Size 6 direct from Motenergy as a kit and the Sevcon is a total PITA to program so I've been looking for alternatives.
Glad it's helpful! I was looking at the Sevcon controllers as well but was deterred given the first thing anyone mentions is how much of a pain they are to program. Maybe I'm being naive but I just don't understand why programming a piece of hardware has to be so difficult
I can do some basic program settings for your Sevcon controller. I would charge money for the job though. I do not recommend a Sevcon unless you need extremely fine tuned safety features for a forklift or something.
Thank you this is a very informative video
Teach me your ways sensei 😁🤘 insane build man had me up all night watching these vids 😆
Very good knowledge drops in your videos. thank you for being thorough!
Thank you for making this video,
This is very helpful..
Very Well Explained !!!
Thank you!
Awesome video ! But I dont understand the precharge resistor ? How is it wired, why is it necessary ? Thank you so much ! 😀 I think its to prevent spark in the contactor but how do you know when the internal circuit of the controller is completely precharged and so you can activate the contactor ? But if you accelerate while the contactor is off, will it burn the resistor ?
That's correct. it is to prevent a rush of current from controller capacitors to suddenly discharge when the contactor is closing and cause damage. If the precharge resistor is hard-wired across the contactor (like in this video), voltage will always be equalized so there is no need to wait for caps to charge. if you put the resistor on a switch also, you will need to wait 5-10 seconds. if you accelerate with the contactor off (which I forget and do all the time) the resistor will not burn, instead, the motor will simply not turn since the current will be limited to some very low amount
@@GaiusGarage Thank you so much it helps me a lot 😁 If you dont wait 5-10 seconds and you try to accelerate will it damage something ?
@@leonamor8662 for sure! if you don't wait the 5-10 sec you risk damaging the contactor as if there was no precharge resistor at all. but it has nothing to do with whether you accelerate or not. best setup IMO is to hard-wire the pre-charge resistor across the contactor
@@GaiusGarage Perfect you are the boss 😎👍
Great video! It will be helpful for many so keep it up.
The 1023*(avg)/255 is a scale shift. It is spreading a number that was on a 255 scale to a 1023 scale. I am guessing this is so it is a more bit friendly number to stuff in the smallest amount of memory in the micro-controller brain of the Kelley controller.
I suggest you keep that yellow boot on while spinning the motor. It will keep that key from flying out while spinning and possibly poking out an 👀
both good points! thank you!!
Great Video! very useful. Question, any issues with the 12v not being isolated from battery? The manual specifies an isolated soource for the controller.
thank you! the 12V source uses a common ground with the high voltage system but it is isolated coming from the dc-dc converter. from the controller's perspective it sees 12V for the power input
@@GaiusGarage Having a common ground is not isolated. Might be ok- sounds like it might - I tested my setup with a non isolated one and worked fine - I'm just not sure what the risks are with this controller. You can buy isolated DC-DC converters but they are a bit pricier (>$100) than non-isolated ones- I might just buy one to be safe. Again, thanks for the tips.
Thank you really great to have some guidance on this. Wondering how things are working out because Kelly states you should be using an isolated power supply?
I am using an isolated power supply here coming from the 12V dc converter. it shares a ground with the main battery but this is irrelevant from the perspective of the controller - 0V is just a reference frame for whatever voltage your using
@@GaiusGarage ok sweet good to know. My knowledge of electronics isnt enough, and i couldnt find anything saying that converter was isolated. was going to use the same converter for my project and already ordered the $70 400w one from Kelly. Should be better for me anyway, because my 12v system will draw 12+ amps with everything i have running at once. and that converter gets real hot doing 92v to 12v 10 amps when i tested it out. Thanks for the reply man, your videos have been a great help.
@@poppybond awesome! glad it's been helpful. Just out of curiosity, what do you have running that youre drawing 12A from your converter? Do you have a coolant pump or alot of lights? I actually got a 20A converter originally to be on the safe sure but found that I only draw around 7A max for lights & contactor.
@@GaiusGarage The contactor should draw a lot of current to close the connection, but then the power draw should drop way down in order to stay closed (and keep the high voltage flowing to your motor/controller).
Your so amazing !
Your video was so helpful.
I am making a ev car with kls-8080i but i have trouble with error code ........
Can you give me some advice about current meter error??????
Thank you! I'm not sure about error code. best thing would be to get the code and reach out to Kelly controller support. they are pretty good about troubleshooting
Super helpful- thanks! I am planning on using this combo for a fiat 500 conversion. What’s the max motor speed you can achieve with this setup?
nice! I'm working up to something like that. Was going to pick up a Jeep Wrangler TJ for a conversion the other day but trying to finishing one project before taking on more. I didn't program the controller at all but did measure the shaft RPM - got about 6300rpm unloaded at full throttle
So the controller must be advancing the timing of the commutator switching then to get that speed? One issue I am struggling with is this motor claims 0.026 V/RPM constant, so at 96 volts it should only get about 3700 rpm, which would be too slow… cool to hear it spins faster though. Still trying to wrap my head around various motor controllers out there. Appreciate the help!
@@ride88 I tested this same combo (ME1507 /KLS96601-8080IPS). On the bench with a 60V battery, I was only able to achieve 3000 RPM and couldn't find any setting to increase this. Kelly seemed to confirm this limitation, so we switched to a Sevcon GEN4 controller. I'd definitely be interested to know if anyone's overcome it.
I’m no expert but since I first found your video I think the setting in the controller would be called “field weakening” up to a max RPM of 6000 which I dug up is a safety thing so the magnets inside the rotor don’t fling apart. Going higher than the base speed with field weakening you get diminishing returns in terms of HP and torque but you should at least be able to spin faster (for me that’s key so I’m not constantly switching 3rd/4th). I’d be curious your results with the sevcon!
@@netmaster10000 In my experience the ME1507 needs at least 90V to be of any use. I first tried a 25S pack in my quad build and when the pack was lower than 90V it wouldn't produce enough power to push it on a flat hill. I was very surprised. I am an Electrical Engineer and I didn't foresee this issue. Quite embarrassing really but as I get older I realise subject matter experience is just as important as knowledge. I switched the pack to a 28S pack and it works awesome! I have since then built a second quad and SXS using Zero's version of the ME1507. They are blasts to drive!
Sevcon controllers are a big learning curve but the quality of the electronics are far superior.
Hi. May I ask you? Can I mount all of this without contactor and 12v battery? And what I should to do with pwr wire on the controller pin?
the power wire turn the controller on and off so you need that to use this controller. on this particular model, the power wire takes 12V so you so need some sort of 12V battery or step-down converter. The contactor is technically optional, maybe on simple hobby vehicles like a go-kart you can skip the contactor, but I would not build any serious commuter vehicle without one.
@@GaiusGarage ok. What if my scheme has no second power supply, but contactor mounting directly, is it possible to find contactor 96V 400A? My main battery is 96V. Or I can use lower voltage contactor 72V for example?
@@ВадимИльев-х1п you can find a contactor for 96V but 72V wouldn't work
Did you make or buy the L mount for your motor? If you bought it, could you share where you purchased it?
I made it myself
@@GaiusGarage Very nice. Thank you for replying!
Great Video, thank you! I have a Kelly Controller on a rare solar electric boat, it's supposed to be configured via bluetooth, do you know how to do that?
I have not looked into programming kelly controllers via bluetooth. as far as I know, bluetooth is not supported
thats a bldc motor correct? the controller specs i looked up says that is for a ac motor? im curious cause i am installing a me1616 in my boat and want a easier to program controller its the same internal as a me1507 is why im asking
me1507 is not BLDC, it is a PMSM AC motor, same for ME1616
Great video but I have a safety question and other question. How/where would you install a kickstand switch that would prevent the throttle from working? Can a MotoGadget m-unit be helpful with installation for it's alarm and other awesome features? I'm doing research for a motorcycle install with a hub motor.
I'm not so sure about the motogadget - hadn't heard of them until you mentioned. but for the kickstand, typically that would be wired into the brake switch or dedicated pin on the controller side. that way if the kickstand is down, it would be like the brake is activated and the controller will not send power to the motor. I have another video where I set up all the accessory wiring and although I don't include the kickstand as a safety switch, I do have both hand and foot brakes wired to the controller
Hi did you know if you turn the motor by hand to get the high and lows, but the numbers not moving what could be the problem ? Thanks
probably connection to PC is bad or you missed a step to enable the monitoring process
We are using the Bluetooth android app everything is connected ,but we can't get the numbers
@@ivanivanov-o5sI unfortunately, dont have experience with the Android app
Ok did you power the controller and accessories from 12v dcdc or directly from battery , beqouse we use only battery for power source and. Maybe electricity is to low to run the encoder ?
@@ivanivanov-o5s the 12V source is used to power the controller electronics but the battery voltage is used to power the controller itself. there a line for 12V in on the wire harness, and the battery power connects to the main +/- terminals
hello, please tell me how to reverse the engine, the reverse does not work for me. I send 12 volts from terminal 11 to terminal 14, the reverse signal does not occur or to terminal 12. all locks are disabled. The motor only moves in one direction. Only through the computer can I turn on the reverse
Swap hall wires (not positive and negative)
I see that you enter 80A in the app for max current but the specs of your motor show 160A, is there a reason ?
Thank you :)
Hey, i have been having problems with my kelly KAC14401. The app programmer can´t find the controller and the CAN bus isnt working either. Do you have any suggestions? Already openned the controller and couldnt find anything visible wrong.
What are your thoughts on the Kelly's reduction in starting acceleration current?
Tossing up between a Kelly and the Sevcon for that reason...
I believe this can be adjusted in the programming, no?
How to add a mode selector
9:10 In my industry we ground the shield on either end and let it float on the opposite end.
Can you check the box NOT FOR KIDS? Because I can't save it to a list.
looks like I already have that box checked - not sure why you cant add it
@@GaiusGarage today is OK....
This is fantastic. I want to get this same setup on a CB550 cafe racer I built. Have you put this in a bike yet?
Thank you! No, actually - I switched gears and throwing together an electric dirtbike with a QS138 motor - have those videos on my channel. going to continue the build for this set up soon.
Hi man, can you tell me about the 3 speed function!!! Because I have connected the FWD and ECO and 12v ,, but still it runs on 2 speed instead of 3 !!
And also the foot_sw is for parking function right ?
I dont think the Kelly controller has a 3 speed function - just two speeds. Low is on pin 22 and High on pin 12. not sure about the foot_sw switch honestly - I havent done too much work on this project so far. but you can download the manual here: kellycontroller.com/wp-content/uploads/kls-8080i-ips/KellyKLS-8080I-IPSUserManualV1.11.pdf
@@GaiusGarage thanks man.. if i solved 3 speed .. will definitely inform you 👍🙏🏻
Alright, my configuration is not that complicated as yours (without contractor or else) but basically it is the same. Just wondering why you only use 12V on Pin7 to start the controller. As for as I understand, all power that comes from the battery goes over the key ignition to the controller and then to Pin7 to turn it on (like a circuit). In my case, after the controller is on, the DCDC which is conntected to the controller is last. Is PIn7 only limited to 12Volts?
btw, is there actually a cover for the poles for these kelly controllers? They should never be left open.
Guess it's even more challenging with two or four motors and parallel all signals.
yes, this controller requires an isolated voltage for the power supply (pin7) between 8V - 30V. I'm using 12V since I have it already from the DC-DC converter
@@GaiusGarage okay, but is it only this controller which requires an isolated 8 to 30Volts at PIN7 or all others as well? Mine is KLS-7245N and I use 72(84V) on battery power so I would use it completely over the key ignition to the controller and Pin7. How do you cover your poles to avoid any short circuit?
@@Harry-lmao Im not sure about other controller but it could be possible that your does not require it. There's a section on the kelly controller website where you can download the manual, it will tell you whether yours requires an isolated circuit for the power. other non-kelly controller Ive use can take battery voltage for the power switch. you can find terminal covers on amazon to cover the +/- leads, if thats what youre referring to
@@GaiusGarage Alright, I need to check the manual again or get support from Kelly just to avoid any damage to the controller.
Yes, terminal covers is what I'm referring to BUT there is a CNL fuse between B+ and NC which also need to be covered up, right? Kelly should provide this equipment as well. thanks
@@Harry-lmao yeah they sell the fuse holders on their website but you can also get fuses and fuse holders on amazon
Hi I can’t figure out how to connect the contractor. Do you have any documentation to show how to do that ? Much appreciated.
there's a link in the description to the part of this video where I show how the control circuit of the contactor is connected. the main terminals simply interrupt the positive discharge line
@@GaiusGarage Great. my bad. I missed that part. Just to confirm, top blade connecting to red wire head should be connected to negative of battery, right? I took a screen shot here: drive.google.com/file/d/1AvE0rrXPMWAxmzK6dJCXPBpEuzpMad5_/view?usp=sharing
@@julianvideoproduction4797 the red wire connects to the positive side. red is typically used for the positive line and black for negative. But depending on your contactor, it might not be to the positive terminal of the battery. Battery is 100V but this particular contactor uses 12V for the control circuit, so I have the red wire connected to the positive side of the 12V dc-dc converter. But they make contractors that take high-voltage for the control circuit also
@@GaiusGarage thanks for replying. I have the exact contactor to pair with ME1616 motor. I will follow your wiring!
@@GaiusGarage do you have an actual wiring diagram to show how all the wires are connected? I am still learning and definitely don't want to mess up and burn my motor 😀
Ragazzi ho bisogno d'aiuto dopo che faccio la identificazione del motore dei sensori hall acel Roma al motore non gira più di 30 km orari perché
Amazing man!!
Same parts I have bought and will be converting my GSXR750!! 👌😎
dude message me on instagram @emot.os - I am doing the exact same conversion. would love to compare notes
Every video i look they put the positive on the other side of the fuse. I think you're not supposed to put it wherr there is a red line on the nut according to kelly.
yes, I see.. I think you might be right about that. ok for a bench test but will definitely have to double check when I finally use this thing in a bike
Hi, me again... x)
You connected all the grounds together, but isnt it dangerous ? Most people say that we have to separate high voltage from the 12v 🤔
there is a possibility that a short in the high voltage system can damage the low voltage components but all of them are fused at multiple levels in the actual bike. other than that there is no issue using a common ground. ground is just a reference point for the voltage so whether its 12V or 1000V, they are both in reference to some other voltage, which would be called "ground". by connecting the grounds together, you just make the voltages in reference to the same exact value
That's an enormous motor, what are your plans for it?
this motor & controller will go into an electric GSX-R conversion - will be posting build videos once I make a little more progress on it
@@GaiusGaragevery excited to see it, keep up the good work.
Was ist das für auch Volt und Maße och breit tief und warum macht ihr alles auf englisch
Nice I want to buy
Hello can i contact you please ? Thanks for the video
Hey, I suck at math my motors high was 200 and low was 103 can you figure it for me I've tried multiple times and can't figure it out at all 😢
I walk through this calculation at 17:47 - just plug your numbers in
Motorcycle?
yessir gsxr conversion
Raddle? What the.. lol
È come se ci avesse un blocco e non so come
How to add a mode selector