Nice work with the copper coils! If you want, you can try straightening that piece that didn't work out. Clamp one end in a bench vice, straighten by hand as well as you can, pinch the other end with some locking pliers, turn the pliers about 90 degrees so you can strike them with a mallet, and wack until it is straight. Don't over do it, because the tube will get thinner, but this is a pretty good way to get a second chance with copper tubing.
Your HHO generator could be redesigned to keep H2 and O2 gasses seperate. Then if you control how much O2 you combine latter on, you can make your flame a reducing flame. Alternately and probably more simply, you could supplement some propane into the HHO gas stream to make it less oxidative and more reducing.
Thank you. I find your demo very useful. It is simple but conveys all the information we need to understand the fundamentals of a refrigeration sysemts. Again, thank you. M
For a few bucks, you can get a low side pressure gauge, or better yet, a vacuum gauge - on eBay. Either just put it on the vacuum pump, or scrounge together some flare fittings, and flare it right into the system. Sometimes flares will leak (inevitably), but when you're still in the experimental stage, they are quite valuable, considering you don't have to de-solder or cut lines. I'm Looking forward to seeing how your machine runs. Capillary tubing might become a headache to work with. Since you changed both the evaporator and the condenser, and it appears you'll be cooling water, the conditions have changed considerably from what the cap tubing was originally used for. You might get lucky! But, you'll probably have to change the length at least once. I've had a lot of fun with brass needle valves, instead of cap tubing. I had a propane dehumidifier running in my basement for 18 months, with a brass needle valve as the control. Charging by feel is possible, and an impressive talent, but pretty difficult. Something tells me you will figure it out though. ;)
it's a very interesting and inspiring work, but it really wouldn't be bad if you could try to smooth out your dialect a bit, even for native speakers it's sometimes difficult to understand you and I'm sure that people who don't speak english as a native speaker have a much harder time understanding you are you Scotsman or Welsh if I may ask you?
@@ShaunDobbie Your dialect is actually very nice, but it could be more difficult for others to understand and that would be a shame coz I think your work is great and also very interesting, this video could be very helpful to others
Shaun Dobbie, have you done anything playing with R152A "computer duster" using it as a refrigerant? Of course solely for educational purpose and testing only. I think it would be interesting to see someone on RUclips do this in a window air conditioning unit or something as a test bed.
@@johnsonlong1272 I have never thought of that. Any idea where I can get some in Scotland? I am planning a whole house air conditioning system and don't want to use R290 in it due to its flammability.
@@ShaunDobbie Google computer duster. Most dusters contain one of two chemicals: tetrafluoroethane (HFC-134a) or difluoroethane (HFC -152a). There is a cas# on the can on the back label you Google that cas# and it will tell you what is in it. Here in the States you can buy computer duster in almost every store Walmart , Dollar general, even some hardware stores or home improvement centers. But also it's available on Amazon and eBay. If I were you I would just Google computer duster. There's all kinds of brands dust off ,surf onn, dust away, and many other names. Basically containing the same thing you just have to look up the cas# and see what's in it. Now they have gone to put in bitterant in it so that people don't inhale it to get high but that little bit of bitterent is not going to affect refrigeration to my knowledge. Also just so that you read it as well Google what's in computer duster.
@@ShaunDobbie Google refrigerant can side punch tool. You're going to need one of these they're handy to have anyway. I like to punch the can down towards the bottom where the can is a little stronger 😉 also that allows you to use liquid or vapor by inverting the can. Some people punch the can in the middle I don't like that the can is pretty flimsy at that point and could leak. From my findings r152a is pretty close to r12 as well as r134a. If I were you I would Google r152a vs r12, and r152a vs r134a. However get your hands on the stuff most office supply places have it 😉. Order a side can punch tool I would get it with the white plastic spacers that allow you to do all different sizes of cans you'll see what I'm talking about when you look them up.but they allow you to do different size cans so going forward in the future it may allow you to do more things. Also make sure you get the one that has both fittings the r134a fitting which is a ACME thread and the r12 fitting which is the standard 1/4" flare fitting thread they have Schrader's in them so you can use one while the other and sitting there open I've never had a problem but I suppose you could put a cap on that on used fitting. Get yourself an old window air conditioning unit take all the tin work off the top use that as a test bed so the system is all together.I think you're going to find the same thing I did. I took amp readings on the compressor pressure and temperature readings the unit I used was originally r22 and the unit work and was fully chargedjust had a bad capacitor I had to change out and somebody threw it to the curb. So I was able to take readings with the r22 unit running. Then I charged it with computer duster it didn't take nearly as much of a charge to make the system outperform the r22 the amp readings were lower on the compressor because the pressures were lower. Don't believe everything you see on the internet there is a lot of disinformation you have to try it yourself in order to know. I want to try it in more units the way I did the r22 window air conditioning unit. Yes the stuff is flammable but my finding was it doesn't really support a flame like r290 another words it will burn in the air if you blow it into a flame but it doesn't burn back to the can like r290. And it seems to dissipate into the air a lot faster becoming non flammable. Where propane Burns longer. I personally do not like r290 for the simple factit doesn't have the smell like propane from a grill I think it would be safer if we could smell the leak with r290. so I wish they would have left deodorant in r290. Some people have a fit when they hear of somebody using regular propane in place of r290.I'm not so sure where I stand on this I think it might be safer to use regular propane at least you have a smell to tell you there's a leak and less of a surprise. good luck I look forward to hearing your results. This is a link to a picture of one of the can punch tools you will need you can search the interweb for the cheapest one in your country but this will show you what I'm talking about. www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-3526-Oil-Side/dp/B001THQX1S/ref=asc_df_B001THQX1S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094794461&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7502309930924873492&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006394&hvtargid=pla-567457237666&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62497261819&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312094794461&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7502309930924873492&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006394&hvtargid=pla-567457237666
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
When rebending copper pipe, I belive it "work hardens" and that reheating the copper softens it for rebending
You can use argon welding gas as a purge gas, inert like nitrogen
Nice work with the copper coils! If you want, you can try straightening that piece that didn't work out. Clamp one end in a bench vice, straighten by hand as well as you can, pinch the other end with some locking pliers, turn the pliers about 90 degrees so you can strike them with a mallet, and wack until it is straight. Don't over do it, because the tube will get thinner, but this is a pretty good way to get a second chance with copper tubing.
Your HHO generator could be redesigned to keep H2 and O2 gasses seperate. Then if you control how much O2 you combine latter on, you can make your flame a reducing flame. Alternately and probably more simply, you could supplement some propane into the HHO gas stream to make it less oxidative and more reducing.
Thank you. I find your demo very useful. It is simple but conveys all the information we need to understand the fundamentals of a refrigeration sysemts. Again, thank you. M
For a few bucks, you can get a low side pressure gauge, or better yet, a vacuum gauge - on eBay. Either just put it on the vacuum pump, or scrounge together some flare fittings, and flare it right into the system. Sometimes flares will leak (inevitably), but when you're still in the experimental stage, they are quite valuable, considering you don't have to de-solder or cut lines.
I'm Looking forward to seeing how your machine runs. Capillary tubing might become a headache to work with. Since you changed both the evaporator and the condenser, and it appears you'll be cooling water, the conditions have changed considerably from what the cap tubing was originally used for. You might get lucky! But, you'll probably have to change the length at least once. I've had a lot of fun with brass needle valves, instead of cap tubing. I had a propane dehumidifier running in my basement for 18 months, with a brass needle valve as the control.
Charging by feel is possible, and an impressive talent, but pretty difficult. Something tells me you will figure it out though. ;)
What torch do you use? I like how precise it is for tight places.
Did I miss the first heating up o the dryer? Or is that another video? Brilliant video thank you!
Well, how did it work out? We deserve the ending! I'm planning a similar build and would like to know your outcome.
it worked really well but I no longer have it as I've done a massive clear out. There is a video somewhere on my channel of it working.
@@ShaunDobbie hey what kind of torch where you using? Also I cannot find the video of that experiment working.
@@JDT738126 It was HHO and propane but normal propane would work just fine.
Like your videos how do you charge it
Thanks! How would you build a freon oil separator?
A p trap
it's a very interesting and inspiring work, but it really wouldn't be bad if you could try to smooth out your dialect a bit, even for native speakers it's sometimes difficult to understand you and I'm sure that people who don't speak english as a native speaker have a much harder time understanding you
are you Scotsman or Welsh if I may ask you?
I actually hate my accent and yes, I'm Scottish but from a region where the language has been utterly destroyed.
@@ShaunDobbie Your dialect is actually very nice, but it could be more difficult for others to understand and that would be a shame coz I think your work is great and also very interesting, this video could be very helpful to others
which cap tube you use for this .31/.36?
Not sure, I used a piece of the tube that was on the fridge I removed the compressor from.
Thanks.
Shaun Dobbie, have you done anything playing with R152A "computer duster" using it as a refrigerant? Of course solely for educational purpose and testing only. I think it would be interesting to see someone on RUclips do this in a window air conditioning unit or something as a test bed.
@@johnsonlong1272 I have never thought of that. Any idea where I can get some in Scotland? I am planning a whole house air conditioning system and don't want to use R290 in it due to its flammability.
@@ShaunDobbie Google computer duster. Most dusters contain one of two chemicals: tetrafluoroethane (HFC-134a) or difluoroethane (HFC -152a). There is a cas# on the can on the back label you Google that cas# and it will tell you what is in it. Here in the States you can buy computer duster in almost every store Walmart , Dollar general, even some hardware stores or home improvement centers. But also it's available on Amazon and eBay. If I were you I would just Google computer duster. There's all kinds of brands dust off ,surf onn, dust away, and many other names. Basically containing the same thing you just have to look up the cas# and see what's in it. Now they have gone to put in bitterant in it so that people don't inhale it to get high but that little bit of bitterent is not going to affect refrigeration to my knowledge. Also just so that you read it as well Google what's in computer duster.
@@ShaunDobbie Google refrigerant can side punch tool. You're going to need one of these they're handy to have anyway. I like to punch the can down towards the bottom where the can is a little stronger 😉 also that allows you to use liquid or vapor by inverting the can. Some people punch the can in the middle I don't like that the can is pretty flimsy at that point and could leak. From my findings r152a is pretty close to r12 as well as r134a. If I were you I would Google r152a vs r12, and r152a vs r134a. However get your hands on the stuff most office supply places have it 😉. Order a side can punch tool I would get it with the white plastic spacers that allow you to do all different sizes of cans you'll see what I'm talking about when you look them up.but they allow you to do different size cans so going forward in the future it may allow you to do more things. Also make sure you get the one that has both fittings the r134a fitting which is a ACME thread and the r12 fitting which is the standard 1/4" flare fitting thread they have Schrader's in them so you can use one while the other and sitting there open I've never had a problem but I suppose you could put a cap on that on used fitting. Get yourself an old window air conditioning unit take all the tin work off the top use that as a test bed so the system is all together.I think you're going to find the same thing I did. I took amp readings on the compressor pressure and temperature readings the unit I used was originally r22 and the unit work and was fully chargedjust had a bad capacitor I had to change out and somebody threw it to the curb. So I was able to take readings with the r22 unit running. Then I charged it with computer duster it didn't take nearly as much of a charge to make the system outperform the r22 the amp readings were lower on the compressor because the pressures were lower. Don't believe everything you see on the internet there is a lot of disinformation you have to try it yourself in order to know. I want to try it in more units the way I did the r22 window air conditioning unit. Yes the stuff is flammable but my finding was it doesn't really support a flame like r290 another words it will burn in the air if you blow it into a flame but it doesn't burn back to the can like r290. And it seems to dissipate into the air a lot faster becoming non flammable. Where propane Burns longer. I personally do not like r290 for the simple factit doesn't have the smell like propane from a grill I think it would be safer if we could smell the leak with r290. so I wish they would have left deodorant in r290. Some people have a fit when they hear of somebody using regular propane in place of r290.I'm not so sure where I stand on this I think it might be safer to use regular propane at least you have a smell to tell you there's a leak and less of a surprise. good luck I look forward to hearing your results.
This is a link to a picture of one of the can punch tools you will need you can search the interweb for the cheapest one in your country but this will show you what I'm talking about. www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-3526-Oil-Side/dp/B001THQX1S/ref=asc_df_B001THQX1S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094794461&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7502309930924873492&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006394&hvtargid=pla-567457237666&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62497261819&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312094794461&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7502309930924873492&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006394&hvtargid=pla-567457237666
bro pls aaisi hi video laya kro
Bro pls English.
Im making a 30s fridge
Watching this video makes me dizzy
Good
estas sordando com estaño
Buenas noches cashas
pésimo
I don't understand
First you learn how to make videos ۔
Yeah, done that, thanks.