Hey buddy, purchased the same unit and made the modification you outlined on your video and I have to say it worked perfectly. I am now able to use pressurized and non pressurized 5-liter beer kegs in my Krups Beertender. With this minor modification to the beertender I am able to use different beer products in 5L kegs. size markets that normally would not be available. thank you my brother. Peace
I knew if I looked someone would have done something like this LoL...🍻 think I'd like to try this set up,see how it goes. would be perfect for family get togethers...perfect little set up..
There will be leaks from time to time, so just set your pressure under 20 mmhg. I use the Midwest bungs. I close off my tank when not serving just to be sure co2 isn't wasted. The px rarely drops to zero
I just chose the drillbit that looked the closest in size to the hose and went a step larger so it would fit and not leak cold air. I upgraded the CO2 buying a 2.5lb tank on beveragefactory com with their cheapest dual gauge regulator, hose, and ball-lock adapter. I went to Lowes once I had the stuff from online and found an adapter by bringing in the hoses. If you're looking for an elegant solution, a paintball tank would probably work best aesthetically. Google adapters for it online.
Plenty of space: Heineken kegs are what this was designed for and they all have a raised plastic housing on top. I did have a bad experience with one of my 3 kegs when it's gave the beer a metallic taste. I threw out that keg. Essentially it was a flaw in the coating I hadn't seen. I don't know if the empty aluminum kegs by Midwest would have this issue, but I just don't want to spend $25 to fin out. I live overseas now and don't have access to more gravity kegs.
Michael - could you supply a pic of the new drilled hole. I like drinkwd40 idea and found a beertender for 35 dollars on craigslist. I am also going to modify for paintball CO2 bottle. Non-oil of course.
Forced carbonation is what I do with tap a draft bottles and soda bottles. I've seen what over pressurization does to these kegs on RUclips, so I force carbonate then pour into the keg, then the co2 is used for serving and keeping the carbonation up.
This is a great idea! How much thermal loss did you notice when you made the hole? Has your homebrew stayed fresh with your splice work? Or have you changed it out for proper splice hardware? Anyway, very cool ingenuity and since my brother bought me one of these, I may have to follow your conversion.
I wanted to use this concept for my home brew beer. I'm assuming that the co2 serves only to pump the beer and won't force carbonate??? I assume I would have to add priming sugar as I normally would with bottles and hope that the mini keg could contain the pressure.
Hi, I have a beertander and would like to customized it to tap my own beer. Was it work for you? I read that you switched to and other system. Did you know why the beer had a metalic taste?
williamsbrewing com has adapters for paintball btw. I've only primed a couple times in them, using 1-1.5oz sugar per gallon. Most times I've force-carbed in 2L's and poured into the minikegs for serving (chill both first and your carb will stay put). The Beertender motherboard died and I cant get a new one on craigslist overseas. Now it's just a fancy partypig that I stick in the fridge. A bad keg ruined beer (metallic taste). Migrating to Tap-A-Draft:(. Follow drinkwd40 on homebrewtalk com.
I did this conversion with a Beertender and Edgestar TBC50-ATT Tap kit but I seem to have a CO2 leak. I believe when the lid is closed it puts some downward pressure on the main part of the TBC50-ATT CO2 quick release, causing the leak. Has anyone had this problem?, any suggested workarounds?. I tried tightening the nut on the CO2 quick release, but since it's plastic I don't want to overtighten and strip it. Has anyone taken it apart and maybe put some Keg lube in the connections or some of that plumbers tape? I'm also thinking about cutting out a notch on the lid of the Beertender, such that it doesn't put downward pressure on the connector. Any thoughts / feedback are much appreciate.
It's been a long time, but maybe you could rotate the quick release components so that the lid doesn't close so hard on it. You could also cut out the part causing the pressure with a dremel. When I took apart my dead beertender, I noticed they had a lot of insulating foam that was obviously injected after assembly in between the inner and outer layers. All you'd be removing most likely is plastic and maybe the sensor line to the scale that measures how full the kegs are by weight (a worthless feature anyway). Once the plastic is removed causing the pressure, you may expose the foam, which duct/electrical tape could cover easily.
Hey buddy, purchased the same unit and made the modification you outlined on your video and I have to say it worked perfectly. I am now able to use pressurized and non pressurized 5-liter beer kegs in my Krups Beertender. With this minor modification to the beertender I am able to use different beer products in 5L kegs. size markets that normally would not be available. thank you my brother. Peace
Thank you! This is exactly what I've been looking for!
i will try this some day
something about having a fresh pint of guiness at home is making me dreamy
Great idea, I just picked up a beertender at a yard sale for 12$ might consider trying this conversion on it
I knew if I looked someone would have done something like this LoL...🍻
think I'd like to try this set up,see how it goes. would be perfect for family get togethers...perfect little set up..
There will be leaks from time to time, so just set your pressure under 20 mmhg. I use the Midwest bungs. I close off my tank when not serving just to be sure co2 isn't wasted. The px rarely drops to zero
I just chose the drillbit that looked the closest in size to the hose and went a step larger so it would fit and not leak cold air. I upgraded the CO2 buying a 2.5lb tank on beveragefactory com with their cheapest dual gauge regulator, hose, and ball-lock adapter. I went to Lowes once I had the stuff from online and found an adapter by bringing in the hoses. If you're looking for an elegant solution, a paintball tank would probably work best aesthetically. Google adapters for it online.
Plenty of space: Heineken kegs are what this was designed for and they all have a raised plastic housing on top. I did have a bad experience with one of my 3 kegs when it's gave the beer a metallic taste. I threw out that keg. Essentially it was a flaw in the coating I hadn't seen. I don't know if the empty aluminum kegs by Midwest would have this issue, but I just don't want to spend $25 to fin out. I live overseas now and don't have access to more gravity kegs.
Michael - could you supply a pic of the new drilled hole. I like drinkwd40 idea and found a beertender for 35 dollars on craigslist. I am also going to modify for paintball CO2 bottle. Non-oil of course.
Forced carbonation is what I do with tap a draft bottles and soda bottles. I've seen what over pressurization does to these kegs on RUclips, so I force carbonate then pour into the keg, then the co2 is used for serving and keeping the carbonation up.
@yusefmasjedi working well no issues now, upgraded to co2 tank instead of cartridges (they lose a lot of air when you pop em)
This is a great idea!
How much thermal loss did you notice when you made the hole?
Has your homebrew stayed fresh with your splice work? Or have you changed it out for proper splice hardware?
Anyway, very cool ingenuity and since my brother bought me one of these, I may have to follow your conversion.
I do use priming sugar for some of my batches (1-1.5floz). No problems there yet.
I wanted to use this concept for my home brew beer. I'm assuming that the co2 serves only to pump the beer and won't force carbonate??? I assume I would have to add priming sugar as I normally would with bottles and hope that the mini keg could contain the pressure.
That's a fantastic idea. But are you really able to install inside the BeerTender all that assembly? Is there enough room?
The metallic taste was oxidized metal. Yes, get a stainless keg or a PET one.
I really want to McGyver the tap-a-draft bottles to fit this, but for now they are about an inch too fat.
The tank goes on the outside. The lid closes fine.
Hi,
I have a beertander and would like to customized it to tap my own beer. Was it work for you? I read that you switched to and other system. Did you know why the beer had a metalic taste?
Does this work on all models of the Krups Beertender?
Everything fits under the hood ok?
williamsbrewing com has adapters for paintball btw. I've only primed a couple times in them, using 1-1.5oz sugar per gallon. Most times I've force-carbed in 2L's and poured into the minikegs for serving (chill both first and your carb will stay put). The Beertender motherboard died and I cant get a new one on craigslist overseas. Now it's just a fancy partypig that I stick in the fridge. A bad keg ruined beer (metallic taste). Migrating to Tap-A-Draft:(. Follow drinkwd40 on homebrewtalk com.
No appreciable thermal loss. I haven't had any issues with freshness.
I did this conversion with a Beertender and Edgestar TBC50-ATT Tap kit but I seem to have a CO2 leak. I believe when the lid is closed it puts some downward pressure on the main part of the TBC50-ATT CO2 quick release, causing the leak. Has anyone had this problem?, any suggested workarounds?. I tried tightening the nut on the CO2 quick release, but since it's plastic I don't want to overtighten and strip it. Has anyone taken it apart and maybe put some Keg lube in the connections or some of that plumbers tape? I'm also thinking about cutting out a notch on the lid of the Beertender, such that it doesn't put downward pressure on the connector. Any thoughts / feedback are much appreciate.
It's been a long time, but maybe you could rotate the quick release components so that the lid doesn't close so hard on it. You could also cut out the part causing the pressure with a dremel. When I took apart my dead beertender, I noticed they had a lot of insulating foam that was obviously injected after assembly in between the inner and outer layers. All you'd be removing most likely is plastic and maybe the sensor line to the scale that measures how full the kegs are by weight (a worthless feature anyway). Once the plastic is removed causing the pressure, you may expose the foam, which duct/electrical tape could cover easily.
does the can fit into the beertender with that attachment on top of it?
yes.
yes
Where did you get the adapter?
What did you end up getting? I see you ended up getting something bigger.
just a freezer, modified to fridge temps, added taps, etc. see my other videos for more details.
Just google it. There is one here: www.kegerator.com/tbc50-acc-edgestar-mini-keg-beer-dispenser-accessory-kit/TBC50-ACC.html