This is one of the most informative and HELPFUL videos I have ever seen...thanks! Between you in England and Mr. Arthur Porter in America, I feel like I am finally understanding what is going on with my machines (-:
Really enjoy your videos. Like your attention to detail. I'm a retired Upholster instructor. I have sewn lots of leather for upholstery. Have made tote bags. Your videos. Have encouraged me to take my skills to a different level. Clint from North Carolina. USA
Great video. Two quick notes: 1: The belt is much easier to remove if you tip the machine head back. For cylinder arm machines, you'll want to disconnect the knee lift, then spin the wing nut on the front to unlatch the hook, and that will allow you to pivot the head back on its base (be sure not to drop it). 2: The servo motor should not be making whistling sounds, this is a good sign that the controller is not tuned to the motor correctly or that some components have drifted out of spec. It's not necessarily going to harm anything in this sort of context, but it may be a sign that the controller is not long for this world, so if it's something that's happens under warranty then you'll want to send it back for replacement.
This video keeps on giving despite it's age - just finished slowing my Tysew today. From 200rpm to about 60 :) had to tap and die my own pulleys and all!
Hey buddy, i came across your videos a few days ago, now that im looking for a sewing machine, and now this video to slow it down. I gotta say, great stuff! keep em coming!
I just bought a Gemsy walking foot machine that i really need to slow down without spending much more money. So sorry to hear of your health problems. Hope you have recovered.
That is a great upgrade, thanks for showing it. The most interesting thing to hear was that you couldn't get something that I easily can here in the US. Interesting because very often I have to order parts and ship from the UK as I can not find them state side. Misery loves company (Big Smile).
+Alexander Dyer (STRONGBOLT) Its odd how some things are this side and others your side....rein rounders are pretty non existent here, but anvils are sort of plenty!
Great job. I think I mentioned to you before that I did my own pulley reduction system on my Yamata 5318 (which also has a servo motor). It sews as slow as 1 stitch per second now and maintains full punching power. I also have a Consew 227R which I put a servo on (with needle position sensor) and which I have also purchased pulleys for (just haven't gotten around to installing them). The 2 best things about the pulley reduction systems are the slow control and the boost in punching power at those slow speeds. Last Summer I managed to find a Singer 29-58 and fully restored it, but I have never come across a Singer 133 like yours. Harness stitchers (even used) are SUPER expensive in the States. Enjoying your videos as always. Cheers
+AndTheCorrectAnswerIs You sum it up perfectly.....The 2 best things about the pulley reduction systems are the slow control and the boost in punching power at those slow speeds. Alas I no longer have my Singer 133.
+Harry Rogers Oh no...the Singer is gone? I will miss seeing that rare machine in action, but I'm sure the work you do now required a little more finesse and less brute force. I enjoy your videos and the variety of subjects. You are a true craftsman, and run a great RUclips channel.
+AndTheCorrectAnswerIs Thanks and yes I was sorry to see it go but as you suggest I do need more finesse for the bags. Fortunately it has gone to a friend, so I know it has a good home!
OMG, this is amazing! Thank you for this video. I’m having a hard time explaining the speed reducer thing to the suppliers of sewing machines in china.. i can really make this dit
I found a neat trick for the sewing machine for regulating the power & speed as well protects the servo motor arm as well , I`m going to do a video of it might like to see it might help .
So much excellent material you are covering here. I have a Phaff 130 I like. but now I am tinkering with a chines shoe patcher and it looks feasible to do this update... Love turning it by hand, like an old train! Anyway, I'll be following your instruction, but was wondering what pully size to get that is actually attached to the/your machine... mine does not come with and I'll also have to update the driveshaft... can't wait. Slow is great, I don't need any tickets from the sewing machine police... nice and easy will do for me. Thanks for posting your experience here. Form across the pond.
Thanks for the video Harry. I have just purchased a Singer 211 U566a. I know next to nothing about sewing machines. Is there any chance of a video showing how to set the thread tension correctly, there are videos out there but none are as clear and practical as yours. Thanks
Hey Mr Rogers, another informative video. I was wondering about belt alignment. Looks like you are shifting the small machine drive pulley left out of ideal alignment so that you can fit the motor driven pulley over the existing slot (perhaps shifted a bit right). I am guessing that it is close enough to not make a practical difference, but I am an engineer and allowed to worry the minutia .. grin ..
Lee Copp Yes it's a tad off Lee...which reminds me of a train journey my dad had with a chief railway engineer who on hearing a creaking sound said...that sounds like an expensive noise!
Hi about 8 inches plus....from memory over two years on it was something like 5/8 inch diameter from Ebay, pillow bearings from Ebay...the wheel ratio was something like 3:1 so something like a 1.75 or 2 inch wheel to a 6 inch wheel....all M section ...from College Sewing Machines UK or China via Ebay.....of course if I were to look at my film again I may find I have remembered completely wrong, but I hope that helps a bit.
Ray Chandler You can get this stuff at Home Depot, Lowe’s , or Ace hardware stores. I did this several years ago to a machine. I have all the equipment needed to make it look factory installed. You can buy a belt pretty close to the size you need using a pc of string to get the diameter. Might I suggest bolting those pillow blocks down with carriage bolts instead of screws.
You never appear to encounter problems Harry. I know If I try`d this ,I can guarantee I`d encounter a problem or two that would hamper the fitting of it . I`d like to try it on my flat bed machine but I know it would be an expensive mistake if things went horribly wrong on assembly
Hi Tom ...to me it's a bit like fixing computers or washing machines or whatever....you have problems...but hopefully you learn and don't have those problems again....but maybe other ones😊
@@harryrogers Yes your correct Harry . Inspired by your good self as I always am, I`ve just taken the plunge and bought the bearings , bar ,and two pulley wheels,and intend to give it a whirl. Nothing ventured, etc 👍
Harry R . I love your work, you explained so well. I just found you 3 weeks ago and i cannot get enough. Thank you very much. What is the model Number on the cylinder arm machine you are using?? ALL I CAN SEE IS TYSEW.
It's a positive and a negative more momentum but more difficult to stop. I have tried both and my preference is for this approach, but I think the cast iron ones are still good.
Verry intristing video. I've got a singer's regular sthicing machine that have a small motor behind . And i was thinking if i colud make it a bit stronger and slower. Do you think if i install a biger motor and this sistem it also work for me?
This is really aimed at industrial machines, I think this would work to an extent but you will obviously be limited by thread size and what the machine can normally handle. Rgds Harry
Thanks. One question. if i am able to change the pulley attached to the motor, to a small size pully in a way that it is 1/3 the size of the flywheel on the machine, will the same effect not be had?
I would need to do the maths to confirm but my pulley addition gives a 3:1 reduction over and above the reduction with the usual set up....so total reduction is more than 3:1.
how did you maintain belt alignment? My clutch-style motor seems to be fastened in 1 spot, there is no adjustment left or right. Currently with no reduction pulleys the belt lines up with the machine handwheel. If I install a double pulley such as you suggest either 1 pulley will be a width out...or both pulleys will be 1/2 a width out of alignment.
Hi again Harry, I forgot to ask before .When fitting the different pulleys , there`s a thing I keep hearing about when reading up on motors on sewing machines is "synchronisation ",so myself ,being a Techno dummie ,I thought it best to ask will the "synchronisation" be affected at all with the different ratio pulley wheels ? Probably a stupid question to you experts but I thought I`d better mention it .PS ,On my Seiko LSW-8BL I have a Ho Hsing servo motor fitted on it.
@@dsmith2979 I have a Servo and it is still too fast for precision stitches on high-end work. One slow stitch at a time with much punching power is why we all need speed reducers like Harry's!
the Consew Servos I have on lowest speed range do slowish 1 stitch without much skill compared to clutch/reducers it's a no brainer for 99% not to mention the noise. believe me they punching power , having switched a machine over after buying a machine with one, no more clutch, for smaller moves you cant feather the clutch, that's not giving up much for all the advantages of the very latest Consew servos others, the Juki I retrofitted is like a new machine, slo to scary fast, as much leather as will fit under the foot and other even heaver materials. I realize the feel is different and requires some getting use to but now am way more productive and feel more in control and way fewer problems on mostly way tougher than leather materials
Hello Harry ...... I'm Charan, from Mumbai, India. I've a similar problem with my flatbed walking foot. The two pulleys you've used are 50mm n 130mm. Was wondering what size pulley was on the servo motor.? If you could kindly let me know, I'd be grateful indeed. I'm a saddler, by the way. Saddle stitch always, but have to use the walking foot for some applications n slowing it down will allow me a neater stitch on heavier leather ...... 4mm plus. Many thanks in advance.
Hi Harry.. just came across this video. I just removed my clutch motor and built a new table. Going to buy a servo motor and have a question. Is it safe to assume I won't get the slow and smooth needle action with just a servo motor w/o the reduction pulley? I see they are slower than a clutch motor but about "jumpy" w/o the pulleys. An I correct in this? Thx again and hope you are well! Jeff
Most of the cheaper servo motors seem to like to run at a fair speed. You could always try just the servo motor and see how it goes....it really depends on how slow you want to stitch...what control you need.
Harry, I have seen people put variable speed controllers on modern woodturning lathes. The kit was about 110$ US. I don't know if it would work on a sewing machine. I think Brendan has done this with his
+Frank B The variable speed motor controllers are much like dimmer switches. I have one on my CNC router. Unfortunately the motor will lose torque as the speed goes down because voltage is dropping. The servo motor on a sewing machine already has electronic speed control, and the older style motors use a slip clutch system to reduce speed (which also causes loss of punching power). Reduction pulleys actually slow your machine down and BOOST the torque, giving you more punching power than the standard motor alone had.
So today I bought a Titan servo motor it`s sure different than the clutch motor , It does`nt run till you step on the pedal wow will that save money on electricity , it as the same pulley as the machine do you know if i should have a step pulley or will it be ok just wondering .?
I just have a plain servo motor on my flatbed and it goes down to about 500 rpm with good power so should be fine. I have the slower speed on my post and cylinder machines as I use these for intricate work....hope that helps.
I need a smaller belt to try it out today , But I see again the speed you have is very nice for counting stitches , -The system you made for yours is a Mandrel drive ,They are one thing we can make here for pennies We have a store here in Canada Called Princess Auto it has everything in that store for a man lots of ladies go there too but for cheaper prices O.M.G. It`s a surplus store has everything from soup to nuts to grinders welders . Could mail you a catalog I`ll send stuff for you if like .LOL.Thanks Harry I guess I better try it first , Love your Patch machine by the way neat little table you made . Have good day .
Harry Rogers Oh thats the reason ,Just seen the notch on the top corner looks like it went around pin 3/4 thru upper plates down around lower thru loop up to shuttle .
Hi Harry I`ve got the two pully wheels & I`ve mounted them on a stainless steel 15mm shaft between the two bearings ready to get going on my Seiko LSW -8BL flat bed machine I`ve just got to cut the Hole bigger for the belts as your aware needs doing ,but due to things in the way such as top of a Motor Bolts & the Oil pan .So space is "tight" . So I`ve notice there is going to have be a slight angle difference between the two pully belts due to the Original belt not being the only belt there now,this will cause each of the belts to run at a bit of an "off" angle because one pully is next to the other on the shaft . Is this OK to run them like that instead of as before with the single belt straight in line with each pully wheel ? regards Tom
Hi Tom...yes it should be ok, mine run a tiny bit out of alignment for the same reason...obviously you do this at your own risk, ......I have not had any problems.
Hiya .. many thanks for all your helpful videos .. i need to get servo motor what size i need for the same size machine as yours its a pfaff 355..again many thanks
Harry Rogers I've got to try and find a servo motor for my Pfaff 481 ,The capacitor blew up SNAP while I was seeing scared me smelt the windings ,Blew lid wide open just pricing them out here at $ 250 - 300 I thought of doing a reduction like this too maybe I'll do it to my post foot.
Garnett M In the US you have the big reduction wheels like on my post bed machine.....see my film on boot repair that I put up about 3 weeks ago. We have Jack servo motors here and they are good.
Hi Harry. This is a fantastic tutorial! I got my Tysew cylinder arm last week and started to teach myself how to use it. It’s struggling with 3-4mm belt leather. I’ve just ordered the parts from eBay as you prescribed in the video. Will this modification give the machine more punching power through the hide. PS you should be on commission :)
That's great Pete...I have never tried thick veg tan on mine...I use it for calf leather circa 2mm thick...I don't know if the mechanism will like very thick hide as that is probably better handled by a harness machine. Best wishes Harry
Cheers Harry. I’ll see how it goes with the pulleys, just got them the other day and fitted to a bar with bearings. Now just need to find a cutter for the table and then I can order the belts. Thanks for your reply and please stay safe in these uncertain times. Best regards Pete
Hi Harry. Is the high pitch squeal of the motor as loud as it sounds on the video and was it present prior to your modification? Thanks for all the great videos :-)
+Mike Dawkins Hi Mike - no for some reason the video picks it up more...sorry as its a bit of a pain.....its always been there but is not so obvious in normal use!
Jessica Hothersall hi yes there was a little scope to reduce the motor pulley size but not by a lot...also greater risk of belt slippage....so it could be done that way but you would not get as much of a reduction.
hello, im gonna try this. i n my place its hard to find of that size. i only find pulley 150mm and 45mm how do you think its works? anyway why do you have to bor the pulley i think the pulley have a stopper or locknut or something. its that bor necessari!
didn't you cut the shaft down to the right length? :) Also, do you really mean a servo motor, or a stepper motor? isn't a servomotor something with a limited range? or are there "continious servos"?
A stepper motor is "dumb" it works in open loop with no feed back. The controller gives the stepper pulses and assumes it was able to rotate that full pulse or set of pulses. A servo motor has feedback using an encoder, it monitors the position of the rotor and makes certain that the rotor has in fact moved as requested. They're not servos like radio control servos, they can spin infinity in either direction. As it may be obvious at this point, a servo motor is much better with high loads like when starting.
+Harry Rogers yeah thats what mine is, bit i don't have a industrial machine ... I have a servo motor running a semi industrial machine and it works so well
That reducer setup is gorgeous. Genius!
Thank you Harry. I slowed my consew 227 following your advice. I just finished setting up today. It sews like a dream.
Great...thanks.
¡Brillante como siempre Harry, saludos desde El Salvador!
Brillant as always Harry! Greetings from El Salvador!
After 7 years 😍 its working now 😍 thank you so much mister .
This is one of the most informative and HELPFUL videos I have ever seen...thanks! Between you in England and Mr. Arthur Porter in America, I feel like I am finally understanding what is going on with my machines (-:
Karen Barger Thanks pleased it's helping
Really enjoy your videos. Like your attention to detail. I'm a retired Upholster instructor. I have sewn lots of leather for upholstery. Have made tote bags. Your videos. Have encouraged me to take my skills to a different level. Clint from North Carolina. USA
Clint Harris Thanks Clint
Great video. Two quick notes:
1: The belt is much easier to remove if you tip the machine head back. For cylinder arm machines, you'll want to disconnect the knee lift, then spin the wing nut on the front to unlatch the hook, and that will allow you to pivot the head back on its base (be sure not to drop it).
2: The servo motor should not be making whistling sounds, this is a good sign that the controller is not tuned to the motor correctly or that some components have drifted out of spec. It's not necessarily going to harm anything in this sort of context, but it may be a sign that the controller is not long for this world, so if it's something that's happens under warranty then you'll want to send it back for replacement.
Thanks for taking the mystery out of the pulley system to slow down speed!
This video keeps on giving despite it's age - just finished slowing my Tysew today. From 200rpm to about 60 :) had to tap and die my own pulleys and all!
Great
To further reduce, you can get a smaller diameter pulley for the motor itself.
Hey buddy, i came across your videos a few days ago, now that im looking for a sewing machine, and now this video to slow it down. I gotta say, great stuff! keep em coming!
I just bought a Gemsy walking foot machine that i really need to slow down without spending much more money. So sorry to hear of your health problems. Hope you have recovered.
Thanks...you could put it on an old treadle unit, or make one perhaps.
I think i will do what you did. Being in thailand does offer challenges when looking for things. It currently has Jack clutch motor.
That is a great upgrade, thanks for showing it. The most interesting thing to hear was that you couldn't get something that I easily can here in the US. Interesting because very often I have to order parts and ship from the UK as I can not find them state side. Misery loves company (Big Smile).
+Alexander Dyer (STRONGBOLT) Its odd how some things are this side and others your side....rein rounders are pretty non existent here, but anvils are sort of plenty!
Good to see valuable people i follow, talking to each other. Thank you guys, both of you. Respect.
Thanks Harry, very helpful, I'm thinking of doing this on my Singer 31-15
Thanks to this video I'll be able to slow down my electri motor. I am building soil sifter/trommel. Many thanks 👍👍👍
Great job. I think I mentioned to you before that I did my own pulley reduction system on my Yamata 5318 (which also has a servo motor). It sews as slow as 1 stitch per second now and maintains full punching power. I also have a Consew 227R which I put a servo on (with needle position sensor) and which I have also purchased pulleys for (just haven't gotten around to installing them). The 2 best things about the pulley reduction systems are the slow control and the boost in punching power at those slow speeds. Last Summer I managed to find a Singer 29-58 and fully restored it, but I have never come across a Singer 133 like yours. Harness stitchers (even used) are SUPER expensive in the States. Enjoying your videos as always. Cheers
+AndTheCorrectAnswerIs You sum it up perfectly.....The 2 best things about the pulley reduction systems are the slow control and the boost in punching power at those slow speeds.
Alas I no longer have my Singer 133.
+Harry Rogers Oh no...the Singer is gone? I will miss seeing that rare machine in action, but I'm sure the work you do now required a little more finesse and less brute force. I enjoy your videos and the variety of subjects. You are a true craftsman, and run a great RUclips channel.
+AndTheCorrectAnswerIs Thanks and yes I was sorry to see it go but as you suggest I do need more finesse for the bags. Fortunately it has gone to a friend, so I know it has a good home!
I have a singer 241-12 and it’s horribly fast very hard to control love your pulley system 👍🏻
OMG, this is amazing! Thank you for this video. I’m having a hard time explaining the speed reducer thing to the suppliers of sewing machines in china.. i can really make this dit
Thanks. On bucklehurst leather instagram is a photo of my latest set up for a post bed
I found a neat trick for the sewing machine for regulating the power & speed as well protects the servo motor arm as well , I`m going to do a video of it might like to see it might help .
Garnett M Sounds interesting!
Harry Rogers Just up loading now
That's a really tidy job. Thanks for showing this - I will never do it but loved seeing it done.
Best Wishes, Brendan.
+baconsoda Thanks Brendan - all the very best. Harry
That's nice, slow enough to follow stich lines. Don't think I could listen to that motor whining like that, but it's not mine.
A very smart man here!
Very good job! I’m doing a similar job on my cheap Chinese machine.
Fantastic! but does your machine's tinnitus operating noise not drive you mad?
That is a quirk of the microphone...it seems to amplify it!!
So much excellent material you are covering here. I have a Phaff 130 I like. but now I am tinkering with a chines shoe patcher and it looks feasible to do this update... Love turning it by hand, like an old train! Anyway, I'll be following your instruction, but was wondering what pully size to get that is actually attached to the/your machine... mine does not come with and I'll also have to update the driveshaft... can't wait. Slow is great, I don't need any tickets from the sewing machine police... nice and easy will do for me. Thanks for posting your experience here. Form across the pond.
Thanks..I think I used a 45mm on the motor...I was aiming for a 1:3 reduction. Best wishes Harry
Thanks for the video Harry. I have just purchased a Singer 211 U566a. I know next to nothing about sewing machines. Is there any chance of a video showing how to set the thread tension correctly, there are videos out there but none are as clear and practical as yours. Thanks
Hey Mr Rogers, another informative video. I was wondering about belt alignment. Looks like you are shifting the small machine drive pulley left out of ideal alignment so that you can fit the motor driven pulley over the existing slot (perhaps shifted a bit right). I am guessing that it is close enough to not make a practical difference, but I am an engineer and allowed to worry the minutia .. grin ..
Lee Copp Yes it's a tad off Lee...which reminds me of a train journey my dad had with a chief railway engineer who on hearing a creaking sound said...that sounds like an expensive noise!
Hello Harry, can you please let me know what's the length of the shaft? Thank you in advance!
From memory about 8 inches
Thank you very much! @@harryrogers
Did you install the thread winder back on?
Great video, was hoping you had a parts list? How long is the shaft?
Hi about 8 inches plus....from memory over two years on it was something like 5/8 inch diameter from Ebay, pillow bearings from Ebay...the wheel ratio was something like 3:1 so something like a 1.75 or 2 inch wheel to a 6 inch wheel....all M section ...from College Sewing Machines UK or China via Ebay.....of course if I were to look at my film again I may find I have remembered completely wrong, but I hope that helps a bit.
Ray Chandler You can get this stuff at Home Depot, Lowe’s , or Ace hardware stores. I did this several years ago to a machine. I have all the equipment needed to make it look factory installed. You can buy a belt pretty close to the size you need using a pc of string to get the diameter. Might I suggest bolting those pillow blocks down with carriage bolts instead of screws.
You never appear to encounter problems Harry. I know If I try`d this ,I can guarantee I`d encounter a problem or two that would hamper the fitting of it . I`d like to try it on my flat bed machine but I know it would be an expensive mistake if things went horribly wrong on assembly
Hi Tom ...to me it's a bit like fixing computers or washing machines or whatever....you have problems...but hopefully you learn and don't have those problems again....but maybe other ones😊
@@harryrogers
Yes your correct Harry . Inspired by your good self as I always am, I`ve just taken the plunge and bought the bearings , bar ,and two pulley wheels,and intend to give it a whirl. Nothing ventured, etc 👍
@@tommytitmouse where did you buy the bits? cant find them too easy,, thanks
@@contakt23 I will be putting my complete set up on ebay as I sold my sewing machine recently.
@@tommytitmouse how much are you looking for the set?
Amazing video. Can’t wait to try it myself. What size grub screws did you use? Thanks!
Probably M5?
Great vid!
Harry R . I love your work, you explained so well. I just found you 3 weeks ago and i cannot get enough. Thank you very much. What is the model Number on the cylinder arm machine you are using?? ALL I CAN SEE IS TYSEW.
Pointed or flat grub screws? What locks the pulleys in place the best? Great videos!!!
Actually you may desire more flywheel effect with the solid cast iron sheaves.
It's a positive and a negative more momentum but more difficult to stop. I have tried both and my preference is for this approach, but I think the cast iron ones are still good.
what is the advantage of slowing down a sewing machine?
Verry intristing video.
I've got a singer's regular sthicing machine that have a small motor behind .
And i was thinking if i colud make it a bit stronger and slower.
Do you think if i install a biger motor and this sistem it also work for me?
This is really aimed at industrial machines, I think this would work to an extent but you will obviously be limited by thread size and what the machine can normally handle. Rgds Harry
@@harryrogers do you think can be dameging the machine by forcing it?
Thanks. One question. if i am able to change the pulley attached to the motor, to a small size pully in a way that it is 1/3 the size of the flywheel on the machine, will the same effect not be had?
I would need to do the maths to confirm but my pulley addition gives a 3:1 reduction over and above the reduction with the usual set up....so total reduction is more than 3:1.
how did you maintain belt alignment? My clutch-style motor seems to be fastened in 1 spot, there is no adjustment left or right. Currently with no reduction pulleys the belt lines up with the machine handwheel. If I install a double pulley such as you suggest either 1 pulley will be a width out...or both pulleys will be 1/2 a width out of alignment.
The belts are a tad out of alignment but on a long belt rub this does not seem to matter....I did reposition my motor a bit.
Thanks. I was contemplating adding 2 shafts abd 4 pulleys so there would be no alignment issues.
Thank you for the tutorial!
Hi again Harry, I forgot to ask before .When fitting the different pulleys , there`s a thing I keep hearing about when reading up on motors on sewing machines is "synchronisation ",so myself ,being a Techno dummie ,I thought it best to ask will the "synchronisation" be affected at all with the different ratio pulley wheels ? Probably a stupid question to you experts but I thought I`d better mention it .PS ,On my Seiko LSW-8BL I have a Ho Hsing servo motor fitted on it.
Is the belt running from the machine down to the small pulley on an angle? Looks as though it would be off set to the left?
I had to move the motor to get it lined up with the running axle. Belt from machine to running axle needs to be on centre for the bobbin winder.
Hello Harry. I finally got the speed reducer built. When sewing slow, the safety clutch pops on and out. It's an Adler 167. Any ideas? Thx again. Jeff
Thanks for the video.
I Wonder how did you line up the belt, if you use 2 poly weel , seems impossible to line up.
Hi I slacked off one wheel, ran it, let it centre and then tightened it on the axle.
get a servo, way better, this isn't worth it
@@dsmith2979 I already have a servo on this thanks.
@@dsmith2979 I have a Servo and it is still too fast for precision stitches on high-end work. One slow stitch at a time with much punching power is why we all need speed reducers like Harry's!
the Consew Servos I have on lowest speed range do slowish 1 stitch without much skill compared to clutch/reducers it's a no brainer for 99% not to mention the noise. believe me they punching power , having switched a machine over after buying a machine with one, no more clutch, for smaller moves you cant feather the clutch, that's not giving up much for all the advantages of the very latest Consew servos others, the Juki I retrofitted is like a new machine, slo to scary fast, as much leather as will fit under the foot and other even heaver materials. I realize the feel is different and requires some getting use to
but now am way more productive and feel more in control and way fewer problems on mostly way tougher than leather materials
how big each pulley did you use to slow down
It's a 1 to 3 reduction
I think the largest was around 140mm
Hello Harry ...... I'm Charan, from Mumbai, India. I've a similar problem with my flatbed walking foot. The two pulleys you've used are 50mm n 130mm. Was wondering what size pulley was on the servo motor.? If you could kindly let me know, I'd be grateful indeed. I'm a saddler, by the way. Saddle stitch always, but have to use the walking foot for some applications n slowing it down will allow me a neater stitch on heavier leather ...... 4mm plus. Many thanks in advance.
Hi Harry.. just came across this video. I just removed my clutch motor and built a new table. Going to buy a servo motor and have a question. Is it safe to assume I won't get the slow and smooth needle action with just a servo motor w/o the reduction pulley? I see they are slower than a clutch motor but about "jumpy" w/o the pulleys. An I correct in this? Thx again and hope you are well!
Jeff
Most of the cheaper servo motors seem to like to run at a fair speed. You could always try just the servo motor and see how it goes....it really depends on how slow you want to stitch...what control you need.
Hola me podría decir de cuánto es el pulley mas grande
135mm d EBay China
Harry Rogers gracias
@@jorgegomes4833 bueno
Harry Rogers lo busco y lo más que encuentro es de 120 mm
@@jorgegomes4833 eso está bien ... quieres una relación de uno a tres idealmente
Harry, I have seen people put variable speed controllers on modern woodturning lathes. The kit was about 110$ US. I don't know if it would work on a sewing machine. I think Brendan has done this with his
+Frank B Sounds interesting Frank, especially if they maintain power.
+Frank B The variable speed motor controllers are much like dimmer switches. I have one on my CNC router. Unfortunately the motor will lose torque as the speed goes down because voltage is dropping. The servo motor on a sewing machine already has electronic speed control, and the older style motors use a slip clutch system to reduce speed (which also causes loss of punching power). Reduction pulleys actually slow your machine down and BOOST the torque, giving you more punching power than the standard motor alone had.
So today I bought a Titan servo motor it`s sure different than the clutch motor , It does`nt run till you step on the pedal wow will that save money on electricity , it as the same pulley as the machine do you know if i should have a step pulley or will it be ok just wondering .?
I just have a plain servo motor on my flatbed and it goes down to about 500 rpm with good power so should be fine. I have the slower speed on my post and cylinder machines as I use these for intricate work....hope that helps.
I need a smaller belt to try it out today , But I see again the speed you have is very nice for counting stitches , -The system you made for yours is a Mandrel drive ,They are one thing we can make here for pennies We have a store here in Canada Called Princess Auto it has everything in that store for a man lots of ladies go there too but for cheaper prices O.M.G. It`s a surplus store has everything from soup to nuts to grinders welders . Could mail you a catalog I`ll send stuff for you if like .LOL.Thanks Harry I guess I better try it first , Love your Patch machine by the way neat little table you made . Have good day .
Garnett M re the patcher...the other tension discs are for bobbin winding
Harry Rogers Oh thats the reason ,Just seen the notch on the top corner looks like it went around pin 3/4 thru upper plates down around lower thru loop up to shuttle .
Hi Harry I`ve got the two pully wheels & I`ve mounted them on a stainless steel 15mm shaft between the two bearings ready to get going on my Seiko LSW -8BL flat bed machine I`ve just got to cut the Hole bigger for the belts as your aware needs doing ,but due to things in the way such as top of a Motor Bolts & the Oil pan .So space is "tight" . So I`ve notice there is going to have be a slight angle difference between the two pully belts due to the Original belt not being the only belt there now,this will cause each of the belts to run at a bit of an "off" angle because one pully is next to the other on the shaft . Is this OK to run them like that instead of as before with the single belt straight in line with each pully wheel ? regards Tom
Hi Tom...yes it should be ok, mine run a tiny bit out of alignment for the same reason...obviously you do this at your own risk, ......I have not had any problems.
Thank you once again for your superb help because without you, I wouldn`t have known how to do it. Your a Gent Sir .👍
Hi Harry does your Tysew take Singer 211 presser feet? If so where did you get the open toe foot from? best regards. David
I think it came like that from Industrial Sewing at Slough...have a chat with them...otherwise try College Sewing Machines Rgds Harry
Hiya .. many thanks for all your helpful videos .. i need to get servo motor what size i need for the same size machine as yours its a pfaff 355..again many thanks
Check with your dealer but I think a smaller one will be fine..500w?
@@harryrogers thank you !
Good Show!
What was the whistle all about ?
Garnett M It was the servo setting!
Harry Rogers Could almost get annoying all day sewing .
Hi it seems to have largely gone now....thanks
Harry Rogers I've got to try and find a servo motor for my Pfaff 481 ,The capacitor blew up SNAP while I was seeing scared me smelt the windings ,Blew lid wide open just pricing them out here at $ 250 - 300 I thought of doing a reduction like this too maybe I'll do it to my post foot.
Garnett M In the US you have the big reduction wheels like on my post bed machine.....see my film on boot repair that I put up about 3 weeks ago. We have Jack servo motors here and they are good.
Hi Harry. This is a fantastic tutorial! I got my Tysew cylinder arm last week and started to teach myself how to use it. It’s struggling with 3-4mm belt leather. I’ve just ordered the parts from eBay as you prescribed in the video. Will this modification give the machine more punching power through the hide.
PS you should be on commission :)
That's great Pete...I have never tried thick veg tan on mine...I use it for calf leather circa 2mm thick...I don't know if the mechanism will like very thick hide as that is probably better handled by a harness machine. Best wishes Harry
Cheers Harry. I’ll see how it goes with the pulleys, just got them the other day and fitted to a bar with bearings. Now just need to find a cutter for the table and then I can order the belts.
Thanks for your reply and please stay safe in these uncertain times.
Best regards
Pete
So informative
Hi Harry. Is the high pitch squeal of the motor as loud as it sounds on the video and was it present prior to your modification? Thanks for all the great videos :-)
+Mike Dawkins Hi Mike - no for some reason the video picks it up more...sorry as its a bit of a pain.....its always been there but is not so obvious in normal use!
Wondering why you didn't just put small pulley on the motor itself? Nice demo though, and it's sews beautifully slowly and controlled now!
Jessica Hothersall hi yes there was a little scope to reduce the motor pulley size but not by a lot...also greater risk of belt slippage....so it could be done that way but you would not get as much of a reduction.
good idea .... its inspiring me. thanks alot.
ali laman It working well Ali
hello, im gonna try this. i n my place its hard to find of that size. i only find pulley 150mm and 45mm how do you think its works? anyway why do you have to bor the pulley i think the pulley have a stopper or locknut or something. its that bor necessari!
Should be fine...something like a 1:3 reduction is good...axle does not have to be so thick.
Where did you get the 15mm shaft?
You will find the pulleys and shaft on Ebay uk
didn't you cut the shaft down to the right length? :) Also, do you really mean a servo motor, or a stepper motor? isn't a servomotor something with a limited range? or are there "continious servos"?
A stepper motor is "dumb" it works in open loop with no feed back. The controller gives the stepper pulses and assumes it was able to rotate that full pulse or set of pulses. A servo motor has feedback using an encoder, it monitors the position of the rotor and makes certain that the rotor has in fact moved as requested.
They're not servos like radio control servos, they can spin infinity in either direction.
As it may be obvious at this point, a servo motor is much better with high loads like when starting.
Thank you
tidy bit of work , that looks like it will pay off.
This works fantastically. For $25 I have a much more useful Juki LU-562!!!
My motor running but pully not moving plz tell me why??
Is the pulley grub screw slipping?
Why not just put a small pulley on the servo? Works for me
Hi yes that's a good help but I wanted more reduction and greater punching power. Rgds Harry
excellent
Svp traduire en Français serait génial 👍
Why is your motor making a noise, my servo motor doesn't make that noise ????
It's stopped making it now but I don't think it's a very good one compared to my Jack servos.
+Harry Rogers yeah thats what mine is, bit i don't have a industrial machine ... I have a servo motor running a semi industrial machine and it works so well
I was thinking of setting something like this for my Singer 201 for more torque a slower speeds, how do you find yours?
get a servo, I put a consew csm1000 on my Juki , it's completely different experience and took 5 min to install
I already have a servo on this machine..thanks
genius! thank you!
Omg this is so hard 🥺🥺🥺🥺
im still jealous
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